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Beyond the Arctic Circle


uktog
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I think I might manage a mini blog, it's a little tricky to do more so here is Part 1 on our trip from Hamburg to Copenhagen. We are currently off the shores of Norway heading north to cross the Arctic Circle later today.

 

The cruise started in Hamburg a city I would never have gone to had it not been that Azamara set it as the port of embarkation. I'm so glad they did it is a gem. Our stay at the Crowne Plaza was excellent and using the Hamburg card we made good use of the very efficient transport system and also gained discounts on entry to museums. Two high spots -the Chocolate Museum which included making our own choc bar and Minaturworld which many guests enjoyed. It's everything in minature including a working airport with planes taking off, ships docking and leaving, whole towns with cars, working lights etc. 3 hours and we were still fascinated and finding more to see.

 

 

Embarking was straightforward very accessible port and luggage arrived sooner than we have had in the past.

 

 

As ever food has been a high spot with special German sausages from Hamburg being the feature of Day 1, the captain arranging to send the rescue boat over to collect goats cheese at one point and strawberries at a second and all the restaurants serving outstanding salmon freshly purchased in Bergen. Every day, they think of something special, I'm not sure how they will keep it up, yesterday morning it was waffles with hot berries and cream on deck as we sailed into Geraingerfjord.

 

 

We really are benefitting from Captain Johannes passion for and knowledge of his homeland. The second evening he identified weather issues so deviated on an inland route. It was a lovely sail through fjords in the rain and at one point whilst sailing under a bridge we were greeted by a soaked flag waving Norwegian who turned out to be an old friend of the Captains. He got a huge cheer from all in the Living Room.

 

 

Bergen was Bergen- pouring with rain but it brightened up for the Azamazing evening which was a Greig concert in the Greighallen. A lovely evening expertly managed as ever.

 

 

Flam was a good stop, a little overcast for the rail trip but still enjoyable and a lot to do in town.

 

 

What a highlight Gerainger was. We had previously sailed in on Celebrity where the captain did not even slow down or point out the Seven Sisters. Here we stopped, they put down a rescue boat with Heike and another photographer who did stunning shots and we stopped for 45 minutes spinning round and going close to both the suitor and the seven sisters who, after the recent rain were all visible. And even more surprising, Captain Johannes stopped and did another spin on the way out so we coukd photograph it all in evening light.

 

 

You just feel every day something different is going to happen and today blue skies 12c we hear our extra is an oil rig safari, sailing in close to three of the biggest Norwegian oilfields. Looking forward to that!

 

 

So far just loving it all, waistline expansion probably only being saved by the lovely scenic walks ashore.

 

 

Because of the fjords the internet is really flakey, if it settles I will try and add pics in my next post.

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This is really interesting- thank you! This is an itinerary I have been unsure of previously, but just this first instalment has inspired me. I am looking forward to your next post - when the internet allows.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Forums

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Great blog Ann. I am so envious of you doing The Fjords with Johannes. It must be extra special to be on his homeland cruise.

 

Loving the pix on FB too. Please keep them coming when the Internet connection allows. Bergen sure lived up to it's Rainy City reputation!

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This is really interesting- thank you! This is an itinerary I have been unsure of previously, but just this first instalment has inspired me. I am looking forward to your next post - when the internet allows.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Forums

 

I am hoping to get photos up shortly but my advice would be book it. And to those who've done Norway on larger ships (as we have) well, you've missed so much ch so go on and book it. Just passed the first oil fields. Johannes' insights having worked on oil supply tankers was great. These big rigs are beautiful. Never been that close

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We did this cruise on Quest with Captain Johannes in July 2014, 14 days Leith to Copenhagen. Well worth it - and good weather too. While we visited Nordkapp Johannes sent a crew off in a boat to fish the fjord and they came back with 150 kilos (about 330 lbs) of fresh fish for a cookout. Its the Azamara way.

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Looking forward to more posts to help us relive this cruise.

 

Thanks for taking the time.

 

For those interested, the ship's Twitter Feed is also providing a less personal record of this cruise.

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Fingers crossed you can see these

 

Bergen from Windows Cafe (not Bryggen, looking in the other direction)

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Flam Valley from the railway

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Flam fjord

There is an easy walk in the village up to this view. It takes about 20 mins or rather it took unfit slow me 20 mins

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Spinning around in Gerainger

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It was a little overcast but as there had been recent rain all Seven Sisters showed themselves

 

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Great shots, Ann. we've done Norway 3 times with Captain Johannes and would do it again in a heart beat ! Hope you have better weather than we did at the North Cape, we could hardly see our hands the last time we were there! Thank God they sell post cards. Enjoy the balance of your trip.:D

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We are taking what I think is the same cruise in 2018. I note on my itinerary that we ae in the town of Heilseylt from 8:00 AM to 10:00 AM!!! Two hours???

 

Assuming that you also stop at this town, please tell me why only 2 hours and is it even worth getting off the ship?

 

DON

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We are taking what I think is the same cruise in 2018. I note on my itinerary that we ae in the town of Heilseylt from 8:00 AM to 10:00 AM!!! Two hours???

 

Assuming that you also stop at this town, please tell me why only 2 hours and is it even worth getting off the ship?

 

DON

You will probably find that this is a technical stop for those disembarking on an overland tour - similar to Gudvagen near Flam

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As I said the ships rescue boat went down with Heike and the ships photographer and they got some stunning shots

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The Suitor which is opposite the Seven Sisters was putting on a particularly good display

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When we anchored we were opposite the spectacle of the 13 hairpin bends that brings the road down to Gerainger, certainly not a place to have brake failure.

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We went ashore and this time instead of climbing up to the little church we walked to the right round by the campsite and on round the other side of the fjord. Along the way I wished I could remember the names of wild flowers I learned as a child because I saw many of them, something I've not seen for years.

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It is a pretty village with nice small shops and bakeries

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Norway with Azamara has to go onto your bucket list. We are continuing to enjoy local treats, extra sail arounds and so much more. We've met guests ashore from Viking and Seabourn- their Quest seems to be tailing us, but they are not getting the Norway bonuses we are.

 

It was chocolate dipped Norwegian strawberries last night.

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When you stay up late coming out of Gerainger you are blessed with a sight like thus at around 1130pm. However as you will see in a minute, that was nothing......

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Next morning, an at sea day, we enjoyed a bridge tour where the officers shared with us the route for our Oil Rig Safari later in the morning. It was interesting to be able to learn all about the different oil related support vessels in the area and to realise how all this impacts positively on Norways economy.

Soon we were at our first rig Askar B

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Then an hour later we arrived at one of Norways biggest Heidrun

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There was a lot of things we coukd do yesterday. DH went to a lecture, for me a watercolour class. I've done three now this trip, not sure if my efforts are improving or not but it's very relaxing.

Later in the evening, I noticed something on my IWatch I have never seen before

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Actually I have that message today and I think that will be the case tomorrow as well. We are finding we have more energy in the evenings than usual. Maybe because I was fortified by another beautiful plate of Bergen salmon last night or maybe with the light my brain is being tricked but we could not resist staying up to see our first ever Midnight Sun. This picture was taken at 1215am!

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Surprisingly going to bed in the light is not giving me issues, I've had three nights each with 8 hours plus sleep those who know me will understand how amazing that is, on the Seychelles cruise my average was well under 5 hours.

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Now the scenery changes (temporarily) from Fjords to the fishing villages of the Lofoten Islands. We docked in Svolvaer which is mainly a fishing port with sailing trips. However the other option is to head off to other fishing villages. We decided to risk a DIY having found that the bus to Henningsvaer started right at the door of the tiny terminal. Armed with a bus timetable we set off. It cost 50NKR each way, we had local currency but noted the bus also took credit cards. Soon we were joined by a group of 4-5 year old nursery children on an outing and several locals as well as other ship passengers. The local buses are actually coaches so we had a comfortable ride.

The scenery en route was beautiful but I was glad I had not followed the other option I had considered of hiring a car. The road though well made is single track with passing places and a lot if reversing at times.

Henningsvaer did not have road transport links (two bridges) until 1981 but is a delight and an artists area as well as restaurants. We had a great coffee and Norwegian sugar and cinnamon bun - rather good. These pictures do not do justice to the beauty of the village where many locals still airdry cod on their balconies.

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This first picture is where we docked in Solvaer, the rest are from our bus trip

 

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Tonight we are back to fjords with cruising in Trollfjord which is only 300 meters wide, should be spectacular I will try and get photos up tomorrow of that.

 

Again all I can say is book that Norwegian cruise......

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Now the scenery changes (temporarily) from Fjords to the fishing villages of the Lofoten Islands. We docked in Svolvaer which is mainly a fishing port with sailing trips. However the other option is to head off to other fishing villages. We decided to risk a DIY having found that the bus to Henningsvaer started right at the door of the tiny terminal. Armed with a bus timetable we set off. It cost 50NKR each way, we had local currency but noted the bus also took credit cards. Soon we were joined by a group of 4-5 year old nursery children on an outing and several locals as well as other ship passengers. The local buses are actually coaches so we had a comfortable ride.

...

 

Thanks for this blog--we are booked on the July trip next year. I'm glad to hear about your bus trip from Svolvaer--no problems getting back and forth at all? How long was the bus trip, and how long did you stay in Henningsvaer? Looks like quite a long way--but I'm betting very scenic? Relieved to hear about driving--another former cruiser had done this and I was tempted but reluctant; now I know better! I am going to put this into my notes...

 

P.S. uktog, I'm pretty sure we met last October on Journey Rome-Rome. You were certainly active on our roll-call. But I can't put a face to the name!

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The bus journey was very scenic around 40 mins. The timetable was accurate however there is a gap in service. We went on the 1030 bus the first bus back was 1315 which was fine and plenty time for the walk around and coffee we wanted. Others did find that time too long but there was lovely scenery to sit and admire m

 

Last night we were at Trollfjord and we're blessed with the best weather ever - Captain Johannes said in all his years of sailing it was the most perfect weather he had ever sailed in.

 

I think we all took one for the team in Bergen because today Tromso has been pure blue sky the sundeck late afternoon is packed and regrettably I for one am a little pinker than I would like.

 

We had a wonderful day walked up to Macks brewery the most northern brewery in the world (we've been to Tromso before so have done the other delights). We got the best down town dock only a few steps to the middle of town. Seabourn and Viking are at the dock two miles out

 

The internet is too slow to upload pics but as soon as it allows I will put up more to whet your appetites

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Ann...Captain Johannes is not the Captain on the similar cruise in '18. But it is really on sale right now!...I can't imagine it would be as special a cruise without him at the helm...would you give me your thoughts on that please? Thanks LuAnn

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Ann...Captain Johannes is not the Captain on the similar cruise in '18. But it is really on sale right now!...I can't imagine it would be as special a cruise without him at the helm...would you give me your thoughts on that please? Thanks LuAnn

Johannes does add local perspectives but part of the delight is the itinerary and the route and that will be known to all the captains so I would not dismiss a trip just because of who the captain is or is not

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