Jump to content

Monopod or Tripod for Alaska Cruise


Recommended Posts

Hi everyone -

 

I just purchased a Panasonic Lumix DMC FZ300 for my upcoming Alaskan cruise in May. I am thinking of purchasing a monopod or tripod for the panoramic glacier bay shots as well as the whale watch that we will be going on. Will a monopod suffice or should I purchase a tripod instead? Also, are there any other accessories that I should consider purchasing for my new camera? I am only an amateur but I want to get some good pictures of Alaska! Thank you.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You likely will find either more of an encumbrance than an advantage. The FZ series [i have the much older FZ-50] have excellent optical image stabilization. This permits hand held shots with surprisingly long exposures [when you look at the EXIF data afterwards]

 

I have some NY Harbor fireworks shots with exposure times of about a second. Stationary objects in the background [windows on buildings] were not blurred by motion.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I do bring a lightweight tripod on my cruises, but rarely use it. I only use it when I want to remotely trigger the shutter in order to be in a group shot, or when I want VERY long exposures with an ND filter for smoothing water. Otherwise, I don't use it. As TheOldBear says, modern cameras are very good at moderately long exposures. Also, if the light is somewhat low, you can crank up the ISO with minimal noise. If you are shooting landscapes (e.g. glaciers) in good light, you really don't need a tripod.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For accessories, I would suggest

  • Polarizing Filter - this can be awkward to use with the lens hood, but can darken the sky or suppress some unwanted reflections on water or ice. These are effects difficult or impossible to duplicate in post production [e.g. photoshop]
  • More Batteries - I've purchased both real Panasonic and 'Wasabi Power' batteries for my FZ-50. Three is nice [one in the camera, one in the pocket & one back in the room on a charger.]
  • Extra SD cards - some folks will say have one per day. And they don't get reused/erased until copied to the home computer.
  • Lens cleaning kit - do not use facial tissue, paper toweling, or anti fog eyeglass wipes. These will damage or leave residue on the lens.
  • If you plan on an excursion with small boats [smaller than tenders] there may be a need for some additional camera protection. This might include a clear filter [uV Filter] or a ziplock bag. [The FZ300 is weather sealed, but not waterproof]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I always take my tripod that can convert to a monopod but rarely use it. There is usually enough light during glacier days that it wouldn’t be necessary. It’s also a bit cumbersome when you’re at the rail with dozens of others getting bumped around. I find it difficult to use during a whale watch as there are times you just don’t know where they will surface and need to quickly turn and take your shot.

 

In the longer term, if you think you’ll need some stability, might try one of the tripods where one of the legs comes off and can be used as a monopod as well. Sirui has some nice ones.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Things can get pushy in Glacier Bay out on Promenade Deck. I've use a monopod but I'd never use a tripod in that zoo. I have used my tripod on my balcony.

 

IMO when in whale watching boats there is too much movement of the boat to use a monopod and a tripod is totally out.

 

A good black rapid strap, I use dual, works nice when you need to grab on to something to keep yourself and cameras on board.

 

framer

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here are two photos that I took using my Panasonic FZ70 on our Alaska cruise last year on June 1. I bought it as a stop-gap camera and it travels as my third camera on cruises. It is an older model (and cheaper) than the FZ300 which was unavailable at the time. The FZ70 has a 20-1200mm lens compared to the FZ300 with a 25-600mm lens.

 

I was on the Promenade Deck (yes, crowded!) of the HAL Niew Amsterdam. Both photos were handheld. I think that the image stabilization feature of the camera worked well for the telephoto shot. I like the FZ70 for the "reach" it has, and I find that I grab it more than I thought I would. I did carry a tripod for more serious shots with my Sony DSLR from our veranda.

 

The glacier peak that the eagle is on is just to the left of center in the wide-angle shot. The wide-angle is after the eagle took off.

 

P1020865_zps5ihbyu4b.jpg

 

P1020853_zpslk6m2vgz.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cause I'm a geek and can't help but share:

 

https://www.instructables.com/id/Hands-Free-Tripod-Carry/

 

Got the tripod off ebay for $75, then made this modification. (If you are on Instructables, feel free to vote for me :-))

 

One leg screws off to be a monopod, so I have best of both worlds when traveling.

 

(found the much lighter head online, as a kit it supports my a6000/18-105 combo very secure).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here's an updated fix of your image.

 

99.jpg

 

Thanks for the sharpened image! What I was attempting to do was show what could be expected with the camera as-is when hand-held. Not the best conditions that day. Nice mod on the tripod by the way!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It more than sharpening. Most camera meter's under expose the image in those conditions. This makes the image look muddy or low contrast. This is the one area that manually setting the exposer and over expose the image 1 - 2 stops checking the histogram in the camera is necessary. If your camera allows you to adjust the EV a stop or two that also works.

 

framer

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It more than sharpening. Most camera meter's under expose the image in those conditions. This makes the image look muddy or low contrast. This is the one area that manually setting the exposer and over expose the image 1 - 2 stops checking the histogram in the camera is necessary. If your camera allows you to adjust the EV a stop or two that also works.

 

framer

When messing around in Lightroom I tend to use the "haze" slider in situations like this. Is that worse/different/better than overexposing?

 

(I try like heck to train muscle memory to switch settings quickly, but in the field it just seems I still have a 50/50 chance of screwing it up...)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For accessories, I would suggest

  • Polarizing Filter - this can be awkward to use with the lens hood, but can darken the sky or suppress some unwanted reflections on water or ice. These are effects difficult or impossible to duplicate in post production [e.g. photoshop]
  • More Batteries - I've purchased both real Panasonic and 'Wasabi Power' batteries for my FZ-50. Three is nice [one in the camera, one in the pocket & one back in the room on a charger.]
  • Extra SD cards - some folks will say have one per day. And they don't get reused/erased until copied to the home computer.
  • Lens cleaning kit - do not use facial tissue, paper toweling, or anti fog eyeglass wipes. These will damage or leave residue on the lens.
  • If you plan on an excursion with small boats [smaller than tenders] there may be a need for some additional camera protection. This might include a clear filter [uV Filter] or a ziplock bag. [The FZ300 is weather sealed, but not waterproof]

Let me expand a little on what TheOld Bear said about an extra battery in your pocket. Our first cruise to Alaska I was out on deck one hour before we sailed up to the Glacier. I had an excellant spot at the bow of the ship. By the time I started to shoot photo's the cold had shut down the battery in the camera and my spare was laying on the desk back in the cabin.

Our next cruise to Alaska I had backup battery in pocket and switched it out. We are going back again in May and I will have two camera's with me. And, extra batteries for both in the pocket again. Watch for Eagles sitting on the ice as it floats past the ship.

Bob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok I have the zs50 Panasonic,and have playing with it like crazy trying to learn the manual settings for good pics. Getting lots of practice with my birdfeeders. How many sd cards will I need for a week? I have a 32 and a 64 already- plus 2 extra batteries just in case I need them.also I'm shooting jpeg,not RAW b/c I have yet to figure out how to process those....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok I have the zs50 Panasonic,and have playing with it like crazy trying to learn the manual settings for good pics. Getting lots of practice with my birdfeeders. How many sd cards will I need for a week? I have a 32 and a 64 already- plus 2 extra batteries just in case I need them.also I'm shooting jpeg,not RAW b/c I have yet to figure out how to process those....

 

Manual exposure is not a goal in and of itself - its a tool or technique to use when you know that the camera's metering will not be correct. For example, with a studio flash setup, or a subject that does not average out to '18% neutral grey'.

 

I tend to use the 'program' mode most of the time, but I will shift the balance a bit when reviewing the results.

 

For moving subjects, you may want to try shutter speed priority ['S' mode] to reduce the apparent motion of the subject across the frame [the camera's image stabilization takes care of the majority of the camera's motion].

 

Trying to use the Aperture priority method to set the depth of field is less useful on small sensor cameras - it would be used for relatively close subjects - like zooming in for a 'head and shoulders' portrait from about 8-10 feet away.

 

If you have a Mac, raw processing for most cameras are built into the operating system :-)

 

Other editing / organization tools [AfterShot, LightRoom, Capture1 pro or even Photoshop Elements] will have raw conversion tools built in. [i have not checked Google Photos for raw conversion] The SilkyPix utility bundled with the camera is functional, but cumbersome.

 

A principal downside of Raw files is that on some cameras [like my old FZ-50] they take a long time to write to the memory card. Newer cameras [like my *****-10.2] buffer the transfer, so the camera does not slow down.

 

If you are shooting mostly JPEG, and you want to use the 'card a day' strategy, use fairly small cards [4 gig or so]. That way if one is 'misplaced' you only loose that day's pictures. [i'm a bit fanatical, so I bring a laptop and and external drive to back up the laptop]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok I have the zs50 Panasonic,and have playing with it like crazy trying to learn the manual settings for good pics. Getting lots of practice with my birdfeeders. How many sd cards will I need for a week? I have a 32 and a 64 already- plus 2 extra batteries just in case I need them.also I'm shooting jpeg,not RAW b/c I have yet to figure out how to process those....

 

I'm not finding a simple "calculator" for 12 megapixel to image file size. If you are able to look at the properties of the image files you are taking now - (4Mb maybe?), divide that into the size of your cards and should give you an idea of how many images they'll store. 4MB into 32Gb = maybe a little less than 8000 images if my math isn't failing me. :o (The full 32GB is never available, always a little less)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Tripods make me cranky; whenever I use one I grumble.

 

Practice pressing the shutter release without jabbing it (I tend to get excited and jab the shutter release which makes for a photo that isn't sharp). Try to use solitary objects as a brace for your camera or yourself -- both horizontal and vertical planes. Find a posture for you and your hands that feels steadiest. If your camera has a viewfinder, your face can be a brace rather than holding your hands outstretched from your body using the screen to frame your shot.

 

I have a mirrorless system and am likely going to buy a tabletop tripod for use on the ground or other objects (I will be on a river cruise in Europe).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

I take a mefoto tripod with me. One leg screws off to use as a monopod with the center stack. No need for either one whale watching trip even with the 600mm lens I was using. I did use the tripod on the balcony while sailing through the inside passage. I set my camera up then connected my intervalometer and set it to take a picture once every few seconds for about 5 minutes. Stitch them all together and you get a really long pano of the gorgeous scenery. Also used the tripod for some really zoomed in photos through the inside passage.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am back from our European river cruise. I ended up taking a small "tabletop" tripod with the idea of getting a few group photos. I didn't use it. Not once. One night we roamed around the Fishermen's Bastion in Budapest and I almost went back to our hotel room to get it for some night shots, but ended up bracing against walls and such.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now
 Share

  • Forum Jump
    • Categories
      • Welcome to Cruise Critic
      • New Cruisers
      • Cruise Lines “A – O”
      • Cruise Lines “P – Z”
      • River Cruising
      • ROLL CALLS
      • Digital Photography & Cruise Technology
      • Special Interest Cruising
      • Cruise Discussion Topics
      • UK Cruising
      • Australia & New Zealand Cruisers
      • Canadian Cruisers
      • North American Homeports
      • Ports of Call
      • Cruise Conversations
×
×
  • Create New...