Devonian

My wife and I are currently in Calgary, waiting to join Quark’s next cruise to the high Arctic, originally due to sail from Resolute today. Quark’s challenge this week stems from the fact that the charter flights to Resolute require a refuelling stop in Yellowknife - which will not be possible due to the current state of emergency resulting from bush fires. We are advised that Ultramarine is presently repositioning to Iqaluit where we will board the ship on Tuesday. This means a totally replanned itinerary, focusing on Baffin Island instead of Ellesmere and Axel Heiberg and a loss of 2 days on the ship. To their credit, Quark has kept us well informed as plans have changed. They are providing hotel accommodation in Calgary for the lost days at sea and a couple of free excursions to see Calgary and the Rockies. In addition we are promised a ”pro rata” refund of the cruise fare for two lost days and $200 per person to cover additional expenses in Calgary. While it is very disappointing to miss out on the planned itinerary, we feel Quark has responded very professionally to a difficult sequence of events. Our fingers are crossed that the new itinerary can happen without further problems!

Tristan was difficult because of wind and swell from the north west making a zodiac landing in the tiny harbour unsafe. After two days circling the island and much frustration from passengers and expedition team alike we managed a short - and very wet - beach landing at Sandy Point. This was rather a disappointing outcome because we didn’t get a chance to visit the settlement or meet the local people - but that’s how it goes on an expedition cruise! Saint Helena was much more successful. Hondius spent two nights at anchor, giving us the best part of three days to explore the island. Oceanwide arranged a comprehensive guided coach tour for all passengers and a variety of extra cost excursions were offered. Our highlights were sighting the endemic Saint Helena plover (the “wirebird”) and whale sharks in Jamestown harbour. Others appreciated the sites and history of Napoleon’s exile on the island. At least one passenger spent a night ashore in a local b&b as an apparently welcome break from life on the ship. Overall this was a well-run and memorable expedition. Be ready for a lot of long sea days and be sure you will be happy to mix with a very serious (borderline obsessive) group of international passengers. Most people on board were pursuing specific objectives; to set foot on remote territories or to spot - and photograph - specific species of bird or marine mammal. The expedition team included very highly qualified birders and scientists - and did their utmost to ensure everyone was able to achieve their personal goals.

We’re just back from the last cruise of the season on Oceanwide’s Hondius, visiting the peninsula from Ushuaia 14-27 March, followed by the repositioning voyage via South Georgia, Gough, Tristan, St Helena & Ascension. This was our third visit to the peninsula after previous trips in October (by icebreaker) and in December/January. Whilst March was a good experience it did not live up to our memories of the earlier visits which were truly spectacular. Certainly we saw many thousands of penguins on the peninsula, but many were moulting. There were virtually no chicks and none of the nesting behaviours that are so fascinating to watch. We had some great fin whale and orca sightings but, if whales are your priority, you can get better sightings in the northern hemisphere (eg Alaska and the Aleutians or Baja California) for a lower ticket price. It was our second visit to South Georgia (previously December) and the Island was equally astounding on both our visits. King penguins breed year-round so tens of thousands of shaggy brown chicks are present whenever you go. Fresh snow in early April added to the scenic beauty The Drake was smooth as silk southbound but the roughest we have experienced northbound, so I think you take your chance at any time of the year! Hope this helps your planning.

We returned from Alaska three weeks ago after an excellent 18 days on Roald Amundsen from Vancouver to Nome. We loved the ship! You will find answers to most questions on this webpage; https://www.hurtigruten.com/en-gb/expeditions/practical-information/ships/roald-amundsen/?_hrgb=3 Based on our recent experience there is no dress code other than practical/comfortable clothing. No formal nights - although some people dressed up just a little for the Lindstrom “fine dining” restaurant. You’re not permitted to bring wine or liquor onboard - but house wine (changed daily) is included with lunch and dinner and generously refilled. Bar prices are reasonable by UK standards. Pellegrino sparkling water was provided in our cabin mini-bar and is available to purchase on board. Menus are rather more Norwegian than American, with lots of fish, rather few green vegetables and beetroot with virtually every dish. All good quality ingredients, attractive presentation and appropriately small portions. Breakfast and lunch buffets offered good choice and we liked the all day dining restaurant, Fredheim, offering comfort food like burgers, hot dogs, ice cream and shakes to eat in or takeaway. Wishing you a great cruise…