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Tuesday, March 5 - Taipei Our last full day in Taipei. We decided to head out to see Taipei 101. It was easy to take the MRT. The upscale stores in the lower levels of the building were fun to explore, too. We decided to pay a bit extra to go to the highest floor, basically because we visited the highest floor you could visit at the Burj Khalifa in Dubai. Needless to say, the Burj Khalifa was a lot more impressive, but I’m still glad we visited Taipei 101. Loved some of the architecture of buildings surrounding Taipei 101. Then we headed off to have lunch. Our guide from the day before had suggested a Michelin recommended restaurant for beef noodles. We headed to the MRT for the short ride there. The restaurant was packed, but we were seated at a small table near the back of the room. The beef noodles were delicious. By the time we finished lunch, it was late afternoon and we needed to head back to the hotel to pack since our flight out was the following morning. We decided to just have cocktails and a light dinner in the Executive Lounge. Wednesday, March 6 - Leaving Taipei The location of the hotel once again proved its convenience for reaching the airport. The connection was relatively quick and the check-in was simple. We had plenty of time to use the China Air lounge. By the way, they had the best lounge of the whole trip. The food was definitely a cut above. I tried to limit myself because I knew we’d have food on the plane, too, but I couldn’t help but try some of the dishes. The Korean Air lounge in Inchon was ok, but nothing special. We did have nice service on the Korean Air flight to Inchon and the Delta One flight to Seattle. Just as on the way out, we stayed one night in Seattle to rest, then headed on to the East Coast the next morning. Overall, this had been a great trip. Our first river cruise had been quite successful, but I just hope we haven’t spoiled ourselves with that great room on the Viking Saigon. It was so spacious for a bottom classification room - 303 sq ft. We have a AA suite on our next river cruise in Europe and even though we paid quite a bit more for it, it is only 275 sq. ft. It will be interesting to experience the difference.

Monday, March 4 - Traveling about outside of Taipei Today, we had another ful day tour, but this time outside Taipei. We knew we didn’t have much time for Taiwan, but felt that if we visited a few places outside the city, we’d feel like we’d gotten to know Taiwan a bit better. Immediately after we left the city, we were in rural surroundings - twisting roads and tree covered mountains. Luck was with us because the weather on this day was beautiful. Sunshine and blue skies. Our first stop was in Pingxi, where the annual Lantern Festival is held during the Lunar New Year. We were at the tail end of this period, but Pingxi has sky lantern release all year long. We were given a red lantern and provided with black ink and brushes in order to write our wishes on all four sides. Our handwriting wasn’t very legible, but sending our lantern skyward was so much fun. We took a quick walk around Pingxi and over to a bridge to admire the river below us and the many lanterns on their skyward journey. Then it was off to our next stop at Shifen Waterfall. Again, we had a lovely walk across several picturesque bridges until we reached the first viewpoint. What a lovely spot. If you walk a bit further, you have the best viewing spot of all. Near the waterfall, there are shops that sell snacks and other foods. I bought some of their peanut candies that were so good! After Shifen Waterfall, we were off to Jiufen. It is another mountain village even higher in the mountains. It had been an old gold mining village, but now the old narrow alleyways between the buildings are filled with street foods, tea shops, and restaurants. We had a delightful lunch here - soup dumplings and pork rice. Jiufen Old Street Sampling Taiwan Mountain Tea Our lunch There are several hotels in Jiufen, too. One was used as the setting of a popular movie called “Spirited Away. I wish we’d had time to have tea in that hotel with its open balconies. When we got home from our trip, we watched the new Taipei episode of “Somebody Feed Phil” and the hotel was there! After having lunch and wandering through more of the shops, we headed to our last major site, Yehliu GeoPark. I didn’t know about this park until I started doing research for the Taiwan portion of our trip. It is on a 1700 meter promontory jutting out from the northern coast of Taiwan. Due to erosion and weathering for millions of years, fabulous geological formations have been created. There are mushroom rocks, candle rocks, ginger rocks, potholes, tofu rocks and sea caves. And, of course, people throughout the years have seen different shapes in the rocks and have given them names. It was such a fun place to tour. Cute Princess Rock (aka Girl with Ponytail Rock Mushroom rocks The back side of Queen’s Head Rock Ice Cream Rock Various named rocks Maling Bird Rock - I think it looks like an antelope Gorilla Rock It had been a great day, but it was time to head back to Taipei City. I’d highly recommend a visit to all these locations!

Sorry about the two photos at the end of the previous post. By the time I noticed them, I wasn’t allowed to edit. Sunday, March 3 - Taipei Yesterday had been a busy tour day, so today we planned to take it easy. We had spent so much time at the National Palace Museum yesterday that we didn’t have time to go to Longshan Temple so after breakfast, we headed out to rectify that. Longshan Temple was originally built by Chinese immigrants from the mainland in the 18th century, but it has been destroyed by fires and earthquakes several times. It was last rebuilt after WWII when part of the main temple was struck by American bombers when the Allies thought the Japanese were hiding armaments there. It was fun to visit the temple while it was still all decked out for Lunar New Year. Some of the entry decorations for Lunar New Year Many worshipers were presenting offerings Some of the offerings presented - love the Kentucky Fried Chicken After Longshan Temple, we hopped back on the MRT to go to Din Tai Fung. It is a famous soup dumpling restaurant that has had a Michelin star for some time. We visited the Din Tai Fung in Singapore in 2018 and the one in LA in 2022, but the original is here in Taipei. Of course, there was a wait (over an hour), so we got our number which we could keep track of online and went in search of a brewery. As is the case these days almost anywhere in the world, there was one just a couple of blocks away. We enjoyed our time there until it appeared that our number would soon be called. We hurried back to Din Tai Fung and, needless to say, we thoroughly enjoyed our 2 orders of soup dumplings. Soup dumplings - when you bite into them, you find soup! Open kitchen at Din Tai Fung After we finished our meal, it was easy to walk back to the MRT station and ride back to the hotel. Since our lunch had been mid-afternoon, we decided to have a light dinner at the Executive Lounge.

March 2, continued: During the late morning and early afternoon, our tour continued at the National Palace Museum. This museum holds a huge collection of art and artifacts, most of these treasures were taken from the Forbidden City by Chiang Kai-shek as he left mainland China. We spent about 3 hours here, but honestly, could have spent several days! Some of my favorite items: Neolithic cong (a type of ritual object often placed with the dead) 3400-2250 BCE Meat-shaped carved stone that looks like pork, made of jasper Ceremonial bronze bell 1046-771 BCE Ming vase with “Hundred Deer” motif Chinese landscape painting (just one portion of a long painted scroll) 1441 CE Part of an art piece made of ivory balls of nested concentric layers with human figures in open work relief - Late 19th century Tang ceramic figurine 618-907 CE The real disappointment with our museum visit was not being able to see the Jadeite Cabbage that is on every “must see” list for the museum. Oh well, another reason to come back. After leaving the museum, it was off to see the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial. There were cherry blossom trees blooming outside the memorial, but the drizzle was still with us. At first glance, the Memorial faintly reminds one of the Lincoln Memorial in DC, with the large seated statue of Chiang with quotes from some of his famous speeches all around. Our guide said that Madame Chiang took control of the memorial design and really wanted to bolster Chiang Kai-shek’s image which had been tarnished by groups unhappy with his authoritarian side. There was a special area of the museum (all in Mandarin) that talked about the authoritarian abuses of Chiang Kai-shek. This is not really set up for the foreign tourists and was insisted on by the democratic leaning governments of the last decade who wanted to present a more balanced view of Chiang. Our guide gave us his translation of the photos and artifacts in this exhibit, which really added to our understanding of Chiang Kai-shek and politics in Taiwan. Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Plaza of the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial, flanked by the National Concert Hall and the National Theater (with orange roofs), looking toward the main gate Our first plan of action was to go upstairs to see the Changing of the Guard. It is quite the impressive display of rifle twirling skills and precision marching. Unfortunately, my camera ran out of power so didn’t really get the photos to show that off. After the changing of the guard, we visited the museum on the ground floor of the memorial. A replica of Chiang Kai-Shek’s office The only signboard in the regular part of the museum to show Chiang’s authoritarian side. By the time we finished at the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial, it was time to head back to the hotel to warm up, dry off, and have dinner.

Friday, March 1 - Travel day from Hanoi to Taipei: Today was the day to leave the Pan Pacific Hotel in Hanoi and travel to the airport. After breakfast in the Executive lounge, we called for a Grab Car and headed to the airport which was about 30 minutes away - our cost was about $13. We were flying business class on China Air (Taiwanese national airlines) so our check in was very quick and the service onboard was excellent. We had a great lunch which we could choose in advance and very comfortable seats. After arriving in Taipei, we collected our bags and took the MRT a few stations and then transferred to the High Speed Rail for one stop. We could have taken the MRT the whole way if we had a downtown hotel, but we had chosen a Hilton in New Taipei City. It still only took about 30 minutes and dropped us off just a block from our hotel. The Hilton had upgraded us to a small suite (from a regular king) so we were pleased. The rest of the evening, we relaxed at the Executive Lounge. Saturday, March 2 - Taipei: Today, I had arranged for a Taipei City tour through Viator. Our young guide had lived in the US during his college years, so understanding him was not a problem. He quickly assessed some of our interests, noting that we were interested in going to the National Museum and adjusted our schedule accordingly. It was a off and on again rainy day, so it was probably a good thing that we were interested in the National Museum. Our guide drove us through the downtown area of Taipei, providing lots of information about the city and the country. Our first stop was at the Grand Hotel Taipei. There had been a hotel in this location from the early 20th century, but in 1952, Madame Chiang Kai-shek wanted a grander hotel to stand in this location so that was the beginning of this new “grand” design. There are many historical photos inside illustrating the important people and events that have occurred here. The Grand Hotel Taipei Main lobby Exquisite ceilings in the lobby One of several beautiful fountains inside the hotel Looking toward the main entrance gate to the hotel from inside the hotel grounds Our next stop was at Lin A Tai Historical House and Museum. In 1754, Lin Chin-Ming came to Taiwan from mainland China. It is now one of the oldest houses and grounds existing in Taipei. In 1978, it was in an area that was to be redeveloped and due to its historical value, a plan was created to move it to its present location. By 2000, it was opened to the public. The present site and architecture are in accordance to the principles of Feng Shui and Taoism. It is filled with historically appropriate artifacts. We enjoyed wandering the property and hearing its history and about the elements of Feng Shui as we toured with our guide. The entrance to Lin An Tai Historical House and Museum The main house One of the beautiful roofline views Lattice work that allowed light from outside into what would otherwise be dark rooms There were many different latticework designs, creating symbols with auspicious implications. The cloud wall, built to create a floating cloud effect that harmonizes with the hill behind The Pavilion, providing a relaxing waterscape by Moon Pond The Arch Bridge near the Pavilion

Thursday, February 29 - Hanoi on our own: Another leisurely morning, with our first real activity being a Food Tour at 11:30 arranged through Viator. We had a great guide who took us to several really delicious spots. It was so much fun to dine on the sidewalks at the low tables, sitting on plastic stools, just like the locals. Photos describe our journey through the streets of Old Quarter Hanoi dining best. Dried beef salad Fixings for Fresh Spring Rolls Learning to roll our own Fresh Spring Rolls So interesting to see Grab Scooter drivers picking up take out orders A young woman or eparing our Dry Pho Dry Pho Condiments to spice up our Dry Pho Who knew Dry Pho would be so delicious? Draft Beer stop on Hanoi Food Tour The owner pouring “fresh” draft beer for us Bahn Mi Bun Cha The ceiling of the coffee shop we visited Hanoi Coconut Coffee Hanoi Egg Coffee I highly recommend taking a food tour while you are in Hanoi. Our tour group was limited to 6 so it was lots of fun getting to know some other people. After the food tour, we walked over to the iconic Lake of the Restored Sword where Den Ngoc Son temple is located. It is on an island in the lake connected by a red bridge. There is a legend regarding the founding of Vietnam that involves a sacred turtle in the lake and a sword that the leader who fought an invading group received that allowed him to win the battle. The sword was eventually returned to the lake. Besides the beautiful island location and temple, there is a small building on the grounds that houses the preserved remains (after they died naturally) of two of the rare turtles found in the lake Entrance to Den Ngoc Son temple Artwork depicting the legend of the sacred turtle and the restored sword One of two preserved rare turtles found in the lake After our visit to the temple, we walked through the Old Quarter, looking for propaganda posters for our sons - and we were successful. As we were wandering, we came to Railroad Street - a location many tourists like to visit when the train comes through (although this is discouraged by the government since it is dangerous). We walked by the Vietnam Military History Museum (closing soon) located near the Watch Tower of the Imperial Citadel of Thang Long (an 11th century UNESCO site), but realized we were too late to visit since it, too, was closing in about 15 minutes. At that point, we called a Grab car and headed back to the hotel. Both of those locations are definite “must sees” on our next trip to Hanoi. The watch tower of the Imperial Citadel of Thang Long Just a corner of the citadel that I could glimpse Once back at the hotel it was time to pack, have cocktails and dinner.

Wednesday, February 28 - Hanoi on our own: We said goodbye to the few remaining Viking tour members who were having breakfast in the 1st floor breakfast room of the Pan Pacific. They would be leaving at various times today, but we had arranged two more days on our own in Hanoi before flying to Taipei, Taiwan for 5 days. As Rick Steves often says, sometimes you just need a vacation from your vacation. Viking had really kept us busy for the previous 2 1/2 weeks and we needed a break. We had no real plans for today except to sleep late, eat when we felt like it, and take a walk. We were also celebrating the 10 year anniversary of survival from a life-threatening event for my husband. Ten years to the day prior, Mike suffered an aortic dissection aneurysm while on a business trip. He was in the right place at the right time because he was able to be transferred to the Mayo Clinic in Jacksonville, FL where surgeons saved his life. They considered it pretty much a miracle. So I decided that we would stay at the Pan Pacific, but we changed rooms to enjoy a suite (with Executive Lounge benefits). The room was lovely with a great view from both rooms. The day was misty and cool, but the view from the sitting room of the suite looked right down on the causeway between the hotel and the Old Quarters of Hanoi. One of several flower arrangements in our suite Since we had a late breakfast, we didn’t want lunch. Instead, we had tea in the Executive Lounge (quite the spread) and even ended up there for a light dinner at their cocktail hour. Our only touring for the day, was a brisk walk along the causeway from the hotel toward the Old Quarters. Here we viewed the Memorial to John McCain.. It is right in front of the area in the lake where his plane went down during the Vietnam War. Today, the Vietnamese are very appreciative of all that John McCain did with other Senators to open trade with Vietnam during the 1990s, a time when the Vietnamese people were really suffering once support from the old Soviet Union was gone. John McCain Memorial Another view along the causeway We also visited the Tran Quoc Pagoda, a pagoda built in the 6th century. There was a temple, as well as a sacred tree that had grown from a seedling from the original Bodhi tree that had been presented to Vietnam by the President of India in 1959. After dinner, we returned to our room to be surprised that the hotel had left a celebratory cake and card for us. This was just one example of the wonderful service that we had while staying at the Pan Pacific.

Tuesday, February 27 - Final Day of the Ha Long Bay extension: This morning, we headed back to the mainland, boarded our bus for a short ride, then stopped at Mikimoto Pearls. After a brief introduction to the pearl farming in this area, tour members were escorted into the showroom to view the pearl jewelry, etc. and, hopefully, make some purchases. Mike and I headed immediately to the coffee bar. I had visited the home offices of Mikimoto in Tokyo some years back so we were quite content to have a second coffee after our nice buffet breakfast at the VinPearl. After about 45 minutes for shopping (and coffee drinking), it was back to the bus to return to Hanoi and one last night on Viking at the Pan Pacific. Along the way, we had a good view of the port of Haiphong, one of the main targets for bombing during the Vietnam War. The Port of Haiphong Once we were back in the city, we had time to check into the hotel and get freshened up before it was time to go to the water puppet theater. This was not part of the Viking program, but our Mekong guide, Kong, had arranged for the tickets for us. Two other Viking couples also went to the 5:30 show. We had great tickets in the third row. We took a Grab car down to the Theater. We used Grab multiple times in Hanoi and the bill was usually about $2.50 (directly charged to my credit card that was on the Grab app). No need to worry about taxi meters. We loved the water puppet show. One of the other Viking couples saw us coming into the theater and encouraged us to go out to pick up the audio guide in English. Wow, what a great idea! Before each new act, there is an explanation of the action in Vietnamese in the theater. The audio device provides the same intro for each act in English. It made the different folk story acts so much more understandable and enjoyable. The stage Some of the musicians After the water puppet show, we walked to a nearby restaurant where we had reservations - Madame Hien. This is one of the restaurants that had been featured on an earlier Parts Unknown by Anthony Bourdain. It was a fun restaurant, the food was delicious and our server was excellent (as he described each dish in detail). It was a super way to end the evening. We each chose a different tasting menu so that we could share as many menu items as possible. It was quite the feast! The menu Mike chose The menu I chose Buddha hand that was grated on one of my dishes Our favorite dessert After dinner, we used the Grab app to call a Grab car and we were quickly back to the hotel.

Monday, February 26 - Ha Long Bay extension begins: After breakfast at the Pan Pacific hotel, it was time to board our bus and head to Ha Long Bay. We only had to take an overnight bag and could store out main luggage at the Pan Pacific since we would be returning there after our Ha Long Bay hotel stay. After a relatively short bus ride, our first stop was to board our Ha Long Bay boat to cruise through this scenic area. The boat was filled with tables where we would enjoy our lunch. We could also go out on the open air aft area of the boat and the open air topside filled with seating for those who wanted to have unobstructed views. To be honest, it was a bit chilly, and while I ventured out several times, I did spend most of my viewing time indoors. We did have nice windows from which to view at the dining tables though. The mainly seafood lunch was included, but you had to pay extra for wine or beer. We bought a bottle of Vietnamese red wine which we found totally acceptable for 480 dong. Others at our table bought Chilean red wine for about twice that amount. Dining tables Aft viewing area A floating market that came alongside It was misty with occasional breaks in the clouds - one thing to consider, Jan, Feb, March will have relatively cooler temps in the steamy south Vietnam (still in the low 90s), but also cooler temps in the North (50s-60s). Go for the warmer summer months in the north and you’ll have to suffer the unbearable temps in the south. The kissing rocks - an iconic Ha Long Bay site Near the end of the boat ride, we went into a cave that actually turned out being one of the highlights of our boat trip. It was called Dong Thien Cung and was located 20 meters above sea level. The stalactites and stalagmites inside the cave were fascinating. Climbing up to the cave entrance Entering the cave After visiting the cave, we headed back to board our boat to go back to the harbor to board our bus to take us to our hotel - the Vinpearl Hotel located on its own island. OK, the hotel was weirdly a Hotel California meets Fantasy Island. It looked spectacular inside and out, but was almost empty except for our Viking group. Spooky! Services were nice, but it still felt strange. We had to check in on the mainland, then take a boat to the island where the hotel was. Our room was very nice, our evening meal (on our own) was nice, but the emptiness was still kind of spooky. I think all of us felt better when we boarded the boat the next morning to head back to the “real” world. The entrance to the VinPearl The lobby bar View from our room balcony Main lobby Pools in back of the hotel

Thanks for your review os the excursions you’ve taken!

We’re on the October Barcelona to Buenos Aires trip. Could you post excursions that are available on your cruise? Also I’d love to have feedback on what excursions you take and how you liked them.

February 25, afternoon - After lunch, we headed to the Ho Chi Minh Complex where the Ho Chi Minh Masoleum is located (also the residence where he lived and the grander French colonial building where he could have resided. I think this whole complex is very impressive. Of course, Ho Chi Minh, a very simple man, had asked not to have such a memorial, but the country thought otherwise. We spent about 2 hours at this location, walking from site to site. Extremely interesting! Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum Soldiers standing guard at the HCM Mausoleum The National Assembly Building across from the HCM Mausoleum The Presidential Palace where Vietnamese leaders entertain guests - the former home of the French colonial governor Ho Chi Minh’s simple home on stilts - he was a very simple man. Ho Chi Minh’s office in his home on stilts Looking across to the more official office area used by Ho Chi Minh The One Pillar Pagoda on the Ho Chi Minh Complex grounds - originally built in 1049, destroyed by the French colonial army, rebuilt by Ho Chi Minh, based on original design and in original location. Then it was off to the Temple of Literature. This Confucius Temple is where students come to pray for success in their studies, or come to thank the gods for success they have achieved. We saw lots of students there the afternoon we visited. As a matter of fact, there were several different schools gathered to take photos and make their offerings and prayers. We had packed a lot into this last full day in Hanoi, so e got back to the hotel with just enough time to shower, change, and get ready for our Viking Farewell Dinner at La Madison Vie Restaurant. Somehow, I didn’t take any photos at the restaurant. Very unusual for me. Let me just say, the food was absolutely excellent, the restaurant was lovely, and the chef made a visit to all the tables. We had the opportunity to choose from a couple of items for each of the four courses (and this included 2 glasses of wine). Viking did a fantastic job in choosing this restaurant. It was a great final dinner for our base group of travelers.

Sunday,February 25 - We have a busy schedule for the Viking one day in Hanoi. After breakfast, we headed out on the bus to a location in the Old Quarter to board “electric carts.’’ It was a whirlwind 45 minute ride, introducing us to the narrow streets and wild traffic of old Hanoi. As you can tell, the weather really changed for us. Leaving Siem Reap at 98 degrees and arriving in Hanoi in the mid 50s was a shock. When the weather warmed a bit later in our Hanoi stay, the traffic really picked up, too. We learned that crossing the street in Hanoi was quite the adventure. Some streets had stoplights, but those were suggestions only - scooters never seemed to stop for red lights. We were told to watch carefully, extending our arm, and definitely not running. I just always tried to cross with locals, putting them closest to the nearest traffic, if possible. After our electric cart ride, it was back to the bus to the Hoa Lo Prison (Hanoi Hilton). With only one full day in Hanoi on the Viking schedule, the visits to the sites were cut short. We especially felt that this museum was not given enough time. While most of the museum housed in the actual prison was devoted to the French using it against the Viet Minh, there was an area devoted to the US pilots who were imprisoned here during the Vietnam War. A guillotine that had been used by the French against the Viet Minh Restraints Prison Garment used by US Pilots One of the many historic photos found in the museum (this of a pilot prisoner wearing a similar garment to that shown above After leaving the Hanoi Hilton, we went to the Vietnam Museum of Ethnology. This museum gives an introduction to all the various ethnic groups that make up the country’s regions. While the inside of the museum has fascinating displays on each ethnic group, focusing on ho they lived, celebrated events, and made a living, the museum grounds outside was definitely not to be missed There you could actually go into reconstructed homes that demonstrated how they lived. The various architectural constructions revealed a lot about the practicalities of living in different regions of the country. The homes were filled with furniture and home goods that would have been in that particular type of structure. The museum entrance An overview board showing all the ethnic groups Museum display Museum display Viet Home Water Puppet Pavilion Antique Water Puppets Ede Longhouse Bahnar Communal House We had packed a lot into the morning and now it was time for a lunch break. Our bus took us to a craft center where craftspeople who were disabled due to the use of Agent Orange during the Vietnam War worked. Many made beautiful embroideries that looked like paintings. We admired their artistic abilities, then headed to the top floor where we could buy pho and egg coffee, two Hanoi taste treats. Mike and I agreed that the pho here was the absolute best we had on the whole trip. The women who served us explained that the broth for the beef pho had been simmered for 5 hours. Definitely, go out of your way to sample both this and the egg coffee. You’ll want to have the egg coffee as a dessert.

Saturday, February 24 - Checked out of the Sofitel Siem Reap. Then off to Ta Phrom Temple, of Tomb Raider fame. This Buddhist temple was built by Jayavarman VII and dedicated to his mother. This is the romantic temple that is crumbling and seemingly overtaken by the jungle, just a bit more like what Europeans might have seen when they rediscovered the temples in this area. There are tree roots pushing out stone blocks creating disarray. After our exploration of Ta Phrom Temple, it was off to the new Siem Reap Airport for our flight to Hanoi. Our flights were on time and we arrived in Hanoi early. What a change! We left 97 degree Siem Reap, and arrived 54 degree Hanoi. It was about a half hour bus ride to the Pan Pacific Hanoi Hotel in the rain. Looking forward to tomorrow in Hanoi.

Friday, February 23 - This morning after our buffet breakfast, we headed to Angkor Thom, the last great ancient capital of the Khmer empire. Angkor Thom stretches over 10 square kilometers and is enclosed by a square wall 8 meters tall and surrounded by a moat. There were four main gates leading into the city. The South gate has been restored and the bridge leading up to the gate is lined on one side by gods and on the other side by demons. This is the gate we entered in the morning. Because the gates were only as wide as an elephant, regular tour buses can not fit through the gate, so we had to transfer to smaller shuttle buses to drive through. Bayon Temple, built by Jayavarman VII in the 12th century, was in the center of this ancient capital. Its towers are decorated with 216 very large smiling faces and 1.2 kilometers of beautiful bas-reliefs surround the temple and tell the story of Khmer daily life. Much restoration work is ongoing. Luckily, a 1296 Chinese tourist journal has aided in this restoration. Our next stop was at the Elephant Terrace, a 350 meter long giant viewing stand used for public ceremonies. The king also used this platform to entertain foreign dignitaries. Next to the Elephant Terrace was the Terrace of the Leper (Leopard) King. Dating from the late 12th century, this 7 meter high platform was decorated with intricate carvings. After lunch and a dip in the pool, it was time to visit the Viking-sponsored school. This is a school that supplements the regular public school. Students who qualify, go there for an hour and a half each afternoon to learn English and computer skills. While there was a bit of a hard sell to sponsor students and/or donate to the school, I had a delightful tour guide who made sure that I saw everything and even gave me a chance to interact with other younger students. My guide In the evening, Viking treated us to another very nice dinner in Siem Reap at Mahob Restaurant.

Thursday, February 22 - After the buffet breakfast at the hotel, we were taken by bus to Angkor Wat, the best preserved temple since Buddhist monks have continually maintained it. It is also the national symbol of Cambodia and is proudly displayed on its national flag. It was built in the early 12th century by Suryavarman II. It was created to represent heaven on earth, symbolically Mt. Meru, the Mt. Olympus of Hinduism. Our initial approach The moat surrounding Angkor Wat Stretching around the central temple complex is a 800 meter series if bas-reliefs. The central tower is 55 meters high. Scenes from the central tower Angkor War is also known for its asparas, or heavenly nymphs (over 2000 of them). The nymphs are known for their many different hairstyles. There is artistic stonework everywhere. Of course, there were plenty of Buddhas also even though it was originally a Hindu construction. Outside again . . . The humidity at Angkor Wat had been very high so instead of going on the afternoon local market trip, Mike and I decided to just stay at the hotel and cool off at the beautiful pool area. There is a wonderful swim up bar, and you could also order lunch and drinks to be brought to your poolside lounger. We were not the only Viking passengers to do this! ` In the evening, we had a wonderful dinner courtesy of Viking at the Sokha Restaurant in Siem Reap, where we enjoyed traditional Khmer food.

February 21 - Our transfer to Siem Reap by bus took about.5 hours, but it was broken up into segments. First, we made a stop to see a latex plantation. Our guide explained about the process for collecting the sap. We were all a bit concerned about the trash that was throughout the plantation. Our guide explained that people often stopped to picnic there and just left their trash, and that workers traveling by truck would often eat as they traveled and just pitch their trash from the truck. It certainly did mar the appearance of the plantation, however. Our next stop was by a small lake that connects to the Tonle Sap Lake. There we could enjoy the snack that Viking Saigon had packed for us. There were shaded tables by the lake and a gentleman playing traditional music. Relaxing break! After lunch we traveled about two more hours (with a gas station rest stop break part way) before reaching the Sofitel Hotel that would be our home for the next 3 nights. We had time to either swim or have drinks at the Sofitel bar. In the evening, we enjoyed a buffet dinner at the hotel, followed by a wonderful Apsara traditional dance performance. After the dance performance, it was time to have a nightcap as we enjoyed the Sofitel landscaping.

Wednesday, February 21 - Today was a transfer day. Luggage out by 6:30. On buses by 7:45. Before describing our journey to Siem Reap, I just want to review the Viking Saigon. It is such a comfortable ship. We had a French Balcony room which was exceedingly spacious considering what I have been told previously about river ships. We had been told when we booked the cruise that the French Balcony was the exact square footage of the Balcony staterooms, making it a no brainer to get the French Balcony if room size is important to you. I actually got to view one of the Balcony staterooms and it did seem tighter to me - missing some of the closet area and less open floor space. Our 2nd deck stateroom A bit difficult to view from this angle, but there is a full closet at right angle (and to the left) of the full closet in the middle of the photo. Lots of storage! Our 2nd deck hallway The 2nd deck coffee bar area - always stocked with sweet rolls in the morning or cookies in the afternoon and evening. I was so glad we had a room on the 2nd deck so I could just sneak down the hall each morning to grab a coffee to take back to the room! The 2nd deck library/computer area The 2nd deck lounge Lots of fresh flower arrangements around the ship The 3rd deck gym Another angle of the 3rd deck gym The 3rd deck Sky Bar dining We had a different fresh tropical fruit on the breakfast table each morning. The 1st deck dining area - the Restaurant Another view of the 1st deck dining area

Tuesday, February 20 - Today was our final full day on the Viking Saigon. Our morning excursion was to the Twin Holy Mountains “Phnom Pros & Phnom Srey.” Actually, they are hills and often referred to as Man Hill and Woman Hill. First we visited the Temple at Phnom Pros. There were lots of monkeys there to entertain us. After visiting the Temple, we headed down to the Buddha Garden. There were many Buddha sculptures, but the standouts were the very large Buddha with four faces and another Reclining Buddha. Very close to the Buddha Garden, there was a gold stupa that stood as a memorial to the victims of the Khmer Rouge since this area had been another one of the over 400 Killing Fields in Cambodia. This stupa held the skulls of many of the victims. Particularly sad for us was the fact that this was the area from which our Cambodian guide’s mother was taken so he comes here to remember her. Our next stop was at the nearby AMICA village, Cheung Kok. AMICA is a French organization that encourages the development of Cambodian villages. Through community-based tourism visits and the profits from handicrafts, villagers are able to provide education to their children and sustain their rural way of life. We were able to interact with the children, visit a traditional Khmer house, and see their school. On our way back to the ship, we stopped to take a photo of the famous bamboo bridge. Each year the rainy season washes away the bridge to a nearby island, and each dry season, it is rebuilt. At one time there was only this bridge that connected to the island, but now there is also a concrete bridge a short distance away. Still this is a convenient crossing spot for many people. After returning to the ship and having lunch, it was that sad time when suitcases were retrieved from underneath the bed and closets were emptied. Tomorrow, it’s time to disembark and head to Siem Reap. Angkor Wat awaits.

February 19, afternoon - Since we were going to be sailing all afternoon, Viking provided an afternoon teatime, something new for the cruise. It was served at the Sky Bar, and though I was way too stuffed from lunch to need anything, I did go up to get a couple of photos and ended up sitting down to have a cup of peppermint tea with a friend. At 4:00 there was a final lecture about Life at the Mekong River. This lecture was presented by two of the Cambodian hosts and it centered on local life and wildlife on not only the Mekong River, but also the Tonle Sap Lake. By late afternoon, we were docked in Kampong Cham, our final port.

Monday, February 19 - This morning, the Viking Saigon departed from Phnom Penh for a short journey upriver to Oknha Tey. By 9:00 am, we were docked and ready for our morning excursion to the weaving village in Oknha Tey. This was a location where we had to walk up sand bags to reach the top of the riverbank. Then we walked next to a Buddhist cemetery filled with family stupas, holding the ashes of loved ones. There was quite a variety of styles, reflecting the amount of money that families had spent for their construction. We were transported by tuk-tuk to the weaving village where we learned about the silkworms, the creation of the silk thread, and then viewed village women creating the fabric on the looms. Of course, we were given an opportunity to buy some of the woven products. While this village focuses on silk, they also had products created in other communities for sale in the shop. While I’m not much of a shopper, I did decide to buy one of the natural undyed silk scarves, which is a vibrant gold. After I made my purchase, I walked over to meet the young woman who wove my scarf. She was working on the same fabric on her loom. After visiting the weaving village, it was back on board quickly so we could sail to Kampong Cham, our last docking area.

February 18, afternoon - One note before leaving the subject of the silversmith village: I wasn’t interested in purchasing anything at the shop, but was intrigued by the home behind and over the shop. The bedroom was connected to the shop. Above were other living quarters, and right behind the area where the actual creation of product was taking place, were more living quarters. There were young children playing upstairs who were enjoying interacting with us. Definitely, home and work life were intertwined. There were no organized tours in the afternoon, but our Viking program directors were available to arrange tuk-tuks or make other arrangements if we wanted to go out on our own. Some people went to the central market, or bars, or parks. Mike and I decided that we hadn’t had enough “down” time so we chose to stay on board and swim. Viking Saigon has a wonderful small infinity pool. One end has seats with jets. The water is cool, but not cold - just perfect. Even though the weather was hot and humid, we felt fabulously cool once we left the pool to have a drink at the Sky Bar. I loved this upper deck of the ship! At 5:30, a French linguist and anthropologist who works in Phnom Penh presented an onboard lecture in the lounge on Modern Cambodian history. While we had learned quite a bit about the period of the Khmer Rouge from 1975-1979 while visiting the Tuol Sleng Detention Center and the Killing Fields outside of Phnom Penh, we learned a lot more about how the Khmer Rouge actually maintained strength in the country due to Cold War politics, and unfortunately, the US didn’t help matters. The lecture was so enlightening. One of the strengths of this cruise is that Viking has provided excellent tour support. Our program directors all have personal experiences with the Vietnam War and aftermath, our Cambodian guides all had personal experiences during the Pol Pot regime and aftermath, the French lecturer has deep background studies along with experiences of living in Cambodia since the 1990s. While I’m having a nice holiday on a beautiful ship with nice hotel lodgings, I’m also learning a lot.

Sunday, February 18 - We started the day with a nice breakfast at the SkyBar. While it is outside and a bit humid, we just like the service there. Downstairs in the Restaurant, it is set up more buffet style. Same food options, just a different style of service. Our morning excursion was to the Udon Monastery. Our Cambodian guide gave us a wonderful tour of the outside of many of the elaborately decorated buildings. We also got to see another reclining Buddha. Then we were taken in to receive a blessing from two of the monks. While a traditional blessing is often an hour long, our blessing only took about 5 minutes. This included ritual chanting by the monks and instead of a water blessing done by many Western churches, we were blessed by the monks throwing locust flower buds on our heads (to be honest, the flower buds had recently been scooped out of buckets of water so we did feel this as a moist blessing). Our final stop at the monastery was at the 10:30 almsgiving ritual. The nuns were all lined up, waiting for the monks who were already in the temple interior to exit and then they all proceeded to the area for almsgiving. It was quite impressive to watch this ceremony. Most women who had gone to the monastery to become nuns had lost a husband, or were disabled in some way. They wore white robes, the monks in saffron robes. After leaving the Udon Monastery, we went to Koh Chern village by tuk-tuks. Koh Chern is known for silversmith work. After watching the process for turning the ingots of silver into silver bowls, jewelry and small ornaments, passengers were given the opportunity to buy the silver items.

February 17, afternoon excursion - The afternoon excursion was the most sobering one of the trip. These two memorials centered on the era of the Cambodian genocide of Pol Pot’s regime. What made the excursion more personal was the fact that our Cambodian guide had been greatly affected by this period. He was only 7 years old when Pol Pot came to power. His father had been a teacher and although he tried to hide his occupation, he was “found out” by one of his former students and was killed. Just like the Cultural Revolution in China, the Khmer Rouge under Pol Pot, wanted to eradicate the intelligentsia and return everyone to an agrarian society. Phnom Penh was emptied of its population. Many people died as they were forced into the countryside communes where families were separated. Our Cambodian guide said he woke up one morning and his mother was gone. As a 7 year old, he was trained as a child soldier and handed an AK-47. It was years after the Pol Pot regime (after spending several years as a Buddhist monk) before he was able to begin to deal with his trauma. He still suffers from PTSD. The first site we visited as the Tuol Sleng Detention Center Memorial. This was a former high school that has been turned into a prison and torture center for political enemies or Pol Pot’s government. Individual torture rooms were left pretty much as they were found by the Vietnamese when they invaded to bring an end to Pol Pot’s regime. Many other rooms held displays of the photos taken of the political prisoners who were momentarily housed there prior to execution at one of the many “killing fields” throughout the country. Our Cambodian guide showing the cells where multiple prisoners were kept prior to torture or death. Our next stop was the Cheng Ek “killing fields” memorial which was the closest killing center to Phnom Penh. There, one can see the remains of some of the mass burial grounds. While this visit was very depressing, it was also very necessary for us to remember that genocide is not something that happened long ago(1975-1979). It happened fairly recently in Cambodia, and is still happening in other areas of the world today. To have guides who could give first hand testimony as to how their lives were affected by such dangerous political ideas is so important for us to keep in mind in today’s world. Dinner on the ship tonight was billed as “A Taste of Cambodia,” featuring Khmer regional favorites, served family style. Following that, there was a traditional folkloric dance performance by Cambodian high school students. The passengers really appreciate Viking’s efforts to bring authentic experiences onto the ship.

Saturday, February 17 - Our first excursion was a Phnom Penh city tour by rickshaw. We were cycled to our first location the Royal Palace with its opulent buildings. The most important building is the Silver Pagoda. It is one of the few temples to remain intact during the Khmer Rouge regime. Inside (where no photos are allowed) sits the 17th century Emerald Buddha on a gilt pedestal. A bronze Buddha and a silver Buddha sits next to the Emerald Buddha. The floor of the Silver Pagoda is made of six tons of silver inlaid during Norodom Sihanouk’s pre-Khmer Rouge reign. Only a small portion of the floor is viewable/touchable by the public. The rest is covered with carpeting. Our next stop was at the National Museum where art of the earlier Cambodian civilizations is housed. The garden of the National Museum was a very peaceful location to take a break from the museum’s interior. Then it was back to the ship to cool off and have lunch.