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pierces

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About pierces

  • Rank
    5,000+ Club

About Me

  • Location
    Southern California
  • Interests
    Cruising, cruising, wildlife...oh, photography too!
  • Favorite Cruise Line(s)
    Royal Caribbean, Celebrity
  • Favorite Cruise Destination Or Port of Call
    Alaska
  • If you have a personal or hobby CRUISE or TRAVEL BLOG, include the url here:
    www.pptphoto.com

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  1. I paid about $1600 for my APS-C A77 DSLR back in the day when it was close or at the top of the APS-C heap. The difference is there was a $2000+ gap between it and full-frame at the time. With a $200 gap today, it's a different question being asked. When I made the jump to full-frame, I had to think long and hard about the extra weight and my lack of useful full-frame lenses. The weight turned out to be less of an issue that expected with only a pound difference between the A6300+18-105 and the A7III+24-105, but I am a stocky fellow with a history of weightlifting. Your mileage may vary. If your lens collection is primarily APS-C, the $200 gap widens to over $1000 for a body + lens (ask me how I know). Since I have a fair selection of APS-C lenses and the FF lenses work just fine on them, I still use my A6300 quite a bit for the things it does well. Mostly with the 12mm Rokinon or 8mm fisheye for wide and wider and as a 1.5x teleconverter for the FE 70-300. If the new APS-C flagship doesn't have all the bells and whistles you are asking for or the lure of the high-ISO performance of the full-frame sensor grabs you, Maybe an A7III with a FE24-105 f/4 is the answer. It's a $3200 answer, but an answer none the less. In the full-frame case I would strongly suggest that you keep an APS-C body and a couple of the lenses for those times when you just want small. For me? If the A6700 (or whatever) has all the stuff I wish I had in an APS-C body like FZ-100 battery and stabilization, I will definitely be in the market for one. My appreciation of the Sony APS-C line is based on longer-than-most experience and a very positive impression of their performance and bang for the buck. Dave
  2. Considering your camera has a thousand times more power than the computer that sent men to the moon and is programmed with 100 years of photographic knowledge and experience, I would feel no shame in trusting it to do a good job, The only caveat is that if you are shooting a scene with a lot of snow (glacier walk or something) increase your exposure by +1 using the exposure compensation. Metering averages a scene but the large expanse of bright snow will fool it into reducing exposure, making the snow look greyish and dull. Glass. Wear dark clothes to minimize reflections. If it is truly glass, a polarizer can help eliminate much of the reflections. If it is tinted (usually a plastic film) or lexan like is used in most aircraft and many boats, a polarizer will cause odd patchiness and random rainbow colors since the plastic is also polarizing the light. A screw-on rubber hood pressed against the window can help block reflections from behind you. If you are shooting through glass into the sun...let's just say it's hit or miss at best. Dave
  3. Yeah. We've been following this for a while. Lots of fingers crossed. Here's the old thread of you want to catch up on all the prognostications, suppositions and wish lists. Dave
  4. No problem...I have a shredder. 😉 Dave
  5. Just a note that the Sony 10-18 f/4 is an excellent wide zoom for APS-C E-mount cameras. You may also want to check out the Rokinon 12mm f/2 manual lens. I bought one on sale a few years ago and have gotten great results on my A6000 and later my A6300. The 10-18 is quite small and the Rokinon is just plain tiny. 10s - ISO6400 - f/2 - A6000 The 8mm Rokinon fisheye is another fun lens with excellent sharpness. Dave
  6. DPReview just did a pretty comprehensive test of the RX100 VII. They also did one on the RX10 IV when it came out. In general, until light gets pretty low, the 1" sensor will produce images indistinguishable from those from a DSLR at normal viewing sizes (posting or viewing on a tablet or phone). The RX100 series is very small. The RX10 body is about as large and a typical compact DSLR. Both will likely equal or best the image quality of a six-year-old Rebel with much faster autofocus. The new 1" sensors are pretty remarkable. Dave
  7. When using Auto ISO, most DSLRs and Mirrorless cameras allow you to set a cap on the maximum ISO it will automatically adjust to. Many will also allow you to set the minimum shutter speed at which the camera will bump the ISO upwards. I use my camera in Aperture mode most of the time with the minimum shutter set to 1/30s. If I am chasing grandkids, I set the minimum shutter speed to 1/250s or 1/500s. Another tip I found while shooting my grandson's football games was that Manual mode allows me to set the aperture and shutter to suit my needs and auto-ISO takes care of variable light while following the action. Semi-Manual? Dave
  8. Waiting for the announcement a couple of days after that... 🙂 Dave
  9. Envy makes it hard to compliment your pictures, but I will. 🙂 Dave
  10. Pictures taken between Monday, August 19 and Sunday, August 25. Rules: See above That's it. This isn't a contest. All photos taken this week are welcome (not just cruising). Prizes will not be awarded. Discovering the joy of photography is the prize. The idea is to get folks out using their cameras for more than vacations and toddler birthdays. Post one. Post many. Up to you. Have fun with your camera and share your fun with others!
  11. Another week of non-photographic activity. The kitchen project is in its final laps and the weekends and evenings are filled with the sounds of saws and screwdrivers and the smell of sawdust and lacquer. Pictured here is a pull-out trash receptacle that is 2.5x larger than the ones easily available online. Why did I have to design and build a larger one? Because I love my wife and she wanted a larger trash can. Another reason is that a pull-out trash receptacle was not in the original design and the larger units online were too wide by far for the space available. Cutting down and framing an industrial container that was a bit too wide and tall was the answer and ended up looking pretty good. Trash Talking Dave
  12. The technique I describes is better suited for situations where you need to use a longer exposure that you normally would hand-held when light is bad and you find yourself without a tripod. As for moving birds, perhaps "skeet mode"? 🙂 Dave
  13. I have been shooting for most of my life, both cameras and guns. (Gives a new dimension to point & shoot 🙂). One technique that carries over between the two was mentioned by bobmacliberty which is the smooth release on the shutter. Another is "sniper mode". You support the camera against your face with your elbows held in against your body (not too tightly for either), take a breath and let it out. At the end of the breath, hold it long enough to snap the picture. The idea is to eliminate as much body-induced motion as possible. Another tip is usually associated with shooting action where you are trying to catch the peak moment. Burst mode. Camera shake is an oscillation that moves back and forth, up and down or a combination of those. At some point the camera.is nearly motionless at the peak of the oscillation before moving back in the other direction. Shooting a burst of images gives you a chance that one of the images will be captured at that nearly motionless peak. Or a tripod... 😉 Dave
  14. 1.3 miles from the Best Western on So Camino Real..... Dave
  15. You wound me, Justin. I feel so hurt that the only way I can think of to get over your verbal attack is to drive down to one of the three In-N-Outs within 10 minutes of here and drown my sorrows with a burger, fries (maybe Animal Style) and since I "suck", maybe one of those shakes (made with real ice cream) to suck on. 🙂 Dave
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