Notes from our Dec 2 Cook Islands cruise

As the Tahiti crew of our Air France flight was on strike, AF chartered a HiFly flight (Nigerian aircraft, Portuguese cabin crew, Russian pilot) which surprisingly resulted in a decent flight though not the premium economy paid for. Grateful to just get to FP without issue, (strike settled by the time we flew back home.)

Pre-cruise 4 days at Sofitel Moorea was fantastic (thanks Emdee for the luxury beach bungalow recommendation, perfect!). Gorgeous property, nice FP feel, booking between TG and Xmas makes for low occupancy and easy time getting into Moorea restaurants last minute as well. Had a spectacular meal at Le Mahogany and went to Snack Mahana a couple of times - best poisson cru we've ever had.

This was our 9th cruise on the PG (cronic flu sufferers) and happy to report all is well. The staff is unfailingly warm, friendly, helpful, accommodating. Have not before been to the Cooks and was lovely (though the dive outfit contracted thru the ship apparently got a better offer and we could not dive in Aitutaki). Several staff members told us that on over half of the cruises they could not tender to one or both the the islands so can understand why a diveshop would want to go with a sure thing. The tender to Aitutaki was a roller coaster ride and getting on and off the tender not for the faint of heart but the tender crew is diligent in ensuring safety of the guests.

As we have taken most of the excursions over the years and are divers, we limited excursions to Cooks were we snorkled on Aitutaki (out by honeymoon island, average snorkeling in beautiful setting) and a conservation tour on Rarotonga (we're not birders but enjoyed the hike through the rainforest and contributing to the cause).

In Huahine, there is a lovely public beach just 5 minute walk from where the ship's transport into Fare drops you off (north of pier). This beach is separated from the beach in front of the Maitai Lapita by a few homes. Seemed comparable to the hotel beach. Not sure why someone would pay for the beach day unless wanted to lunch at the hotel and be at the pool. We have never before gone into the supermarket in Fare and that place is huge, (especially given only 6000 inhabitants on island). Hard to tell from the outside but inside it just keeps going and going. Fun to see unusual (for us) products in the store (taro flavored ice cream anyone?)

Dove in Bora bora and Moorea. Marina crew is still top notch and the coral here looks like it is starting to recover from the crown of thorns devestation we saw four years ago.

The snorkeling at Motu Mahana was very good this trip (near the reef) but noted many juvenile crown of thorns there so concerned for the future. Also frustrated at people standing up on the coral heads.

The ship may be old for the industry but still very fine. Food we thought was very good, especially proteins and bread/baked goods. Dinner at Le Grill was a standout; really spectacular. La Veranda, not so much (other than the fois gras which was very good.) L'Etoile did not disappoint; plenty of tasty dishes to choose from and no issue with getting a table to ourselves most nights. Waitstaff in all three restaurants could not be more attentive/friendly.

Ricardo has taken the helm as bar supervisor and is doing an exceptional job. He had some pretty big shoes to fill and is a star in his own right.

The Gauiguines/Gauiguins are always a highlight and the ensemble this cruise was the best in recent memory, particularly in the singing. On Polynesian Night, outside of the piano bar, they performed a set of Tahitian folk songs which was truly charming.

Don't think we caught a single show in the Grand Salon... but didn't miss a FP sunrise; unfailingly magical.

We left the ship 5:30am to catch our 8:30 AF flight. Kind of liked this option other than missing the last lunch onboard, (breakfast was room service sandwiches.) The rest of the day has always felt like a slow, aching withdrawal from the outstanding customer service offered by the PG. Liked being home before the ATN flights even left FP. We used to enjoy the savoring the last few hours in FP but not anymore. Also, the airport was not the typical zoo as with those night departures. BTW, the renovated Salon Manuhiri ounge in Faa'a was very nice and a big improvement over the prior, except for the wifi which was still slow.

We've seen a lot of changes over the past 15 years cruising the PG, but for us, the product still tops any other tropical vacation. We're already making plans for #10.

Thanks for your comments, 5 months to go for us and hope we can make it to both Cook Islands as you did.

You mentioned that your Le Grill meal was exceptional, what did you have? Also, any other entrees that you really recommend from L'Etoile that you enjoyed? This being our first cruise I would appreciate any specifics on their food. I know we will focus our attention on sea food but I will have to deviate from time to time(being originally from Kansas, we like our red meat;p).

Doug

Hi Doug - The menu at Le Grill was the second one offered on that cruise (they switch menus in both La Veranda and the Grill halfway through the cruise); L'Etoile is different every night. The menu had 3 seafood appetizers (tuna poke, crab cakes, coconut prawns) all were excellent (my husband ordered them all, lol) and I had the fish for the main course, a local Papio fish. BH had scallops; both fantastic dishes. The Papio was also offered at L'Etoile one night (just said local fish on menu but asked and it was Papio); I think this fish rivals moonfish which, we LOVE. I think they also offered a beef dish and a vegetarian our night at the grill but cannot remember what they were.

You will not want for red meat, always have something on offer in L'Etoile but we so love the seafood. A couple at a neighboring table commented that their steak (at L'Etoile) was better than the one at LaVeranda. In the past we have always loved LaVeranda so maybe they were having an off night. Passengers were raving about the lamb on the ship (all venues). At L'Etoile, in addition to the featured dishes, you may always order a sirloin steak or medallions of beef with any of the featured sauces, (and also New Zealand salmon which was fantastic.) Saw people ordering lamb chops and small steaks to go with their eggs at breakfast.

Just a note about wine. If you're not crazy about the selection that night and enjoyed a previous night's wine, let them know and they will chase down a prior bottle for you. There were a couple of French whites which we thought were very good.

Fingers crossed you make it ashore on both Cook islands!

We left the ship 5:30am to catch our 8:30 AF flight. Kind of liked this option other than missing the last lunch onboard,

First-timers on PG, we're using Air France for our Society/Cook Islands cruise in May 2018, with pre-cruise staying 3 nights Bora Bora and 3 nights Moorea.

Our cruise runs Saturday to Wednesday. Rather than fly out early Wednesday we're taking two nights at reasonably-priced (for Polynesia) Tahiti Pearl Beach Resort and a Friday 7:30am flight to LAX.

I wonder if we should have planned to fly back immediately at cruise end as you did. It would take a change fee at this point to fly back Wednesday so we'll probably leave things as is. Do you think the two night/one day add-on in Tahiti was a mistake?

Hi Doug - The menu at Le Grill was the second one offered on that cruise (they switch menus in both La Veranda and the Grill halfway through the cruise); L'Etoile is different every night. The menu had 3 seafood appetizers (tuna poke, crab cakes, coconut prawns) all were excellent (my husband ordered them all, lol) and I had the fish for the main course, a local Papio fish. BH had scallops; both fantastic dishes. The Papio was also offered at L'Etoile one night (just said local fish on menu but asked and it was Papio); I think this fish rivals moonfish which, we LOVE. I think they also offered a beef dish and a vegetarian our night at the grill but cannot remember what they were.

You will not want for red meat, always have something on offer in L'Etoile but we so love the seafood. A couple at a neighboring table commented that their steak (at L'Etoile) was better than the one at LaVeranda. In the past we have always loved LaVeranda so maybe they were having an off night. Passengers were raving about the lamb on the ship (all venues). At L'Etoile, in addition to the featured dishes, you may always order a sirloin steak or medallions of beef with any of the featured sauces, (and also New Zealand salmon which was fantastic.) Saw people ordering lamb chops and small steaks to go with their eggs at breakfast.

Just a note about wine. If you're not crazy about the selection that night and enjoyed a previous night's wine, let them know and they will chase down a prior bottle for you. There were a couple of French whites which we thought were very good.

Fingers crossed you make it ashore on both Cook islands!

Thanks Sita,

The food sounds marvelous. I will look for the Papio, white fish? Good to know about the lamb as well! And, I appreciate the input that you can order multiple apps.

I will want to find the good French white wines to go with the seafood. We enjoy Sancerre, White Burgundy, or a Premium or Grand Cru Chablis with our fish at home.

Your trip sounds fantastic, and I do hope we make it, as you did, to all the islands.

Dog

First-timers on PG, we're using Air France for our Society/Cook Islands cruise in May 2018, with pre-cruise staying 3 nights Bora Bora and 3 nights Moorea.

 

Our cruise runs Saturday to Wednesday. Rather than fly out early Wednesday we're taking two nights at reasonably-priced (for Polynesia) Tahiti Pearl Beach Resort and a Friday 7:30am flight to LAX.

 

I wonder if we should have planned to fly back immediately at cruise end as you did. It would take a change fee at this point to fly back Wednesday so we'll probably leave things as is. Do you think the two night/one day add-on in Tahiti was a mistake?

We have done the same thing as you, once just one night, and recently two nights, at Le Meridien. It was a very nice way to "come down" slowly from the PG and relax before the big plane flight. So if you can do it, why not? It's a choice, but it couldn't possibly be a mistake.

The only thing I might do is look at prices at different hotels. The Pearl has gone through a period of being kind of run-down, apparently. Not sure of the status now. I have loved that hotel in the past, so wish it well, but I found prices at Le Meridien to be comparable and it's in very nice shape. It also has a shopping centre just outside the grounds, with several restaurants, groceries, bakeries, etc., which means you can avoid the atrocious hotel restaurant prices if you wish. The Pearl is quite isolated as I remember.

Thanks for the new review .... love to hear others experiences and as we know PG watches this forum ;)

We drove past the Tahiti Pearl Beach Resort on our free 2 hour tour after disembarkation, and again the next day when we rented a car and drove around the whole island (as well as most of Tahiti Iti) and it didn't look any better. If you look at their reviews compared to the IC or Le Meridien or Manava Suites, they have more terrible and fewer excellent reviews. But it's also out of town, along a busy road, and on the wrong side of Papeete. You need to go through the city to get to the airport, which could take a long time because of the traffic. The IC is always an easy ride to the airport, but it's expensive, and there's no where close by to eat. Le Meridien and Manava Suites are a little further out, but are close to places that you can eat. And you don't have to go through the city to get to the airport. While we've stayed at the IC 3 times (we fly with PG's air/fly program so we get a day room, or a day room credit if staying overnight), we're thinking of staying overnight at Le Meridien next time.

Aerobes - I agree with Wendy's advice. We stayed at the (now) Pearl resort 4 years ago. It used to be our favorite of the Tahiti three but had lost its luster. Unknown what its like since then but Wendy has stayed recently at Le Meridian and the point she makes about the nearly restaurants shopping is a strong one. Both the Pearl and Meridian are about equal distance from the aeroport. You would not have any issue from the Pearl through Papeete to catch a 7:30 flight but strongly urge to set up your transport to Faa'a in advance. Unsure what can be arranged through resorts or an independent transport company. Do not be surprised if a taxi will want to charge you for both your travel to the airport and the travel to get to your resort to pick you up at that hour.

Also, with independent arangements, will need to be off the ship by 10am I believe, your room will likely not be ready for a while. Just fyi.

Just to follow up on Wendy's post, the shopping centre just outside the grounds of Le Meridien is excellent. The restos range from little hole-in-the-wall joints with excellent croissants and coffee to much more upscale. There are at least 2 good quality bakeries, who also make great sandwiches to take out. The grocery store is large and well-stocked. And it is a 5 minute walk. The Pearl is in the middle of nowhere, although like Wendy I used to really like her.

Wendy and David have convinced me. We're going to give Le Meridien a try for our pre-cruise stay next time.

Originally I was put off by the statement at the SPG website that until August 31, 2018, the Pontoon and Overwater Bungalows at the Meridien are closed for renovations. I'm fine booking the regular land room but I wondered if the construction would be a problem.

I'll see about switching to the Meridien.

Thanks, you're a great group!

81 of the rooms at the InterContinental will also be closed for renovation this coming year. The standard, garden and lagoon view rooms on the north side of the resort will be closed for renovation starting April 1st 2018, and renovations will not be complete until year end. Starting October 1st, they will gradually start making renovated rooms available. I guess they won't be working at night, but those who are put there for a day room will probably find it noisy. Those rooms really need renovation, and especially need working AC.

The Meridien is in a great location. Yes a bit further to PPT but the buss fare is the same. Not only do you have the places to shop/eat that are close by but the Cultural Museum is a few blocks away. Great place to spend a few hours, displays are wonderfully done and most items are the real deal ....

If we didn't love the IC so much I'm sure this would be a place we would stay. We've stayed at the now Pearl property and though they have the black sand beach and supposedly the place has been worked on it's just not cclose to anything .... nearest place to eat .... McD's ... about a mile away.

Originally I was put off by the statement at the SPG website that until August 31, 2018, the Pontoon and Overwater Bungalows at the Meridien are closed for renovations. I'm fine booking the regular land room but I wondered if the construction would be a problem.

 

I'll see about switching to the Meridien.

 

Thanks, you're a great group!

I'll tell you the truth. Le Meridien has some old OWB's out front on one side, and they are closed. When we were there in October there was no sign of any construction whatsoever. And when we were there in 2014, they were in exactly the same state, i.e., closed. I suspect they are either permanently closed, or new construction is mired in some kind of dispute about disturbing the sea life. Don't know, just guessing.

Here's my impressionistic photo of those OWB's at Le Meridien, taken with my phone:

I seem to have lost the knack of embedding photos directly.

Thanks for your honesty on the state of the OWBs at Le Meridien. They look pretty well used. Back in 1995, we stayed in an OWB for a week at the Sofitel Marara on Bora Bora, and a week in an OWB at the Beachcomber (now IC) on Moorea. We enjoyed it at the time, but we enjoy the Paul Gauguin a lot more. We haven't had a strong urge to stay in an OWB again on our way to the PG cruise and back.

We fly to Tahiti on AF on January 4th for our cruise that leaves on the 6th. I was not aware of job action by Tahitian based flight attendants. Hopefully all will be well for our flight. We're spending a night at the Tahiti IC before the cruise and a few nights in an OWB on Moorea at the Sofitel afterwards. I think that this trip will be magical... one to remember.

We fly to Tahiti on AF on January 4th for our cruise that leaves on the 6th. I was not aware of job action by Tahitian based flight attendants. Hopefully all will be well for our flight. We're spending a night at the Tahiti IC before the cruise and a few nights in an OWB on Moorea at the Sofitel afterwards. I think that this trip will be magical... one to remember.

Bon Voyage, and tell us all about it when you get home!

Be sure to watch Marc & Abi in the Grand Salon. They are one of the best acts on the seas! High energy, great songs both original and current! They play instruments and dance. Abi sometimes does zumba lessons too while on the ship. We were on the PG 6 months ago and their act still resonates with me!