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Picture-A-Week 2018 - Week 12


pierces
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Per your request in the FIrst DSLR thread:

 

p2795770854-5.jpg

 

Sent from my iPad using Forums

 

Snow and bright backgrounds are LIARS! ;)

 

Camera metering systems try to balance a scene to a standard optimal exposure (18% gray) When a dominant area of the scene is bright as in snow or a sandy beach, the metering can be fooled and will underexpose in an attempt to balance the exposure. Modern systems evaluate more than the center of the scene, but they are not perfect. When you have a bright scene like this, it is usual to increase the exposure at least one stop (+1 on the exposure adjustment scale) to compensate. Muddy grey snow brightens up and details emerge in the non-snow subjects.

 

Adjusted +1.5 stops in Lightroom

p2795764905-5.jpg

 

Dave

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Per your request in the FIrst DSLR thread:

 

 

 

Snow and bright backgrounds are LIARS! ;)

 

Camera metering systems try to balance a scene to a standard optimal exposure (18% gray) When a dominant area of the scene is bright as in snow or a sandy beach, the metering can be fooled and will underexpose in an attempt to balance the exposure. Modern systems evaluate more than the center of the scene, but they are not perfect. When you have a bright scene like this, it is usual to increase the exposure at least one stop (+1 on the exposure adjustment scale) to compensate. Muddy grey snow brightens up and details emerge in the non-snow subjects.

 

Adjusted +1.5 stops in Lightroom

p2795764905-5.jpg

 

Dave

Thanks, your picture looks much better! I'm sorry but I don't really understand how/where to

increase the exposure at least one stop (+1 on the exposure adjustment scale) to compensate or how to adjust +1.5 stops in Lightroom.



Also all my photos are shot in Automatic.

Edited by cruises42
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Our youngest Granddaughter is a complex child. Along with the angry outbursts at the lack of quality snacks, seemingly random (to adults) wandering, sudden sprints, and what appears to be malicious timing regarding diaper maintenance, she spends a surprising amount of time at the fence watching the game intently. Little Miss Jackie cannot wait until she can suit up and get out on the field. Nobody taught her how to put a glove on or how to squat like a catcher. I wouldn't be surprised if she was flashing signals with her right hand. Of course, it's a T-ball game and the only signal a catcher would flash wouldn’t call for the “heater”, but relate to setting the tee height.

 

Forget the Curve Ball Ricky...

p2797146713-5.jpg

 

 

Dave

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Thanks, your picture looks much better! I'm sorry but I don't really understand how/where to

 

 

increase the exposure at least one stop (+1 on the exposure adjustment scale) to compensate or how to adjust +1.5 stops in Lightroom.



Also all my photos are shot in Automatic.

 

Lightroom is the organization/editing software that I used to adjust a copy of your picture as an example.

 

To adjust the exposure on your camera, the button illustrated below is used to adjust the exposure up or down from what the camera's meter chose.

 

p2800583870.jpg

 

Press the button and use the adjustment dial to change the value. The indicator is pretty straightforward with the "-" side making the exposure darker and the "+" side making it lighter.

 

Don't forget to adjust it back after taking the shots! (Been there, done that!) :)

 

Dave

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A red-shouldered hawk using a dead tree with a fork in the branches to try to hide himself while watching prey in the wetlands:

original.jpg

 

A bee, working the pollens and sugars off a flower:

original.jpg

 

Closeup with a dragonfly:

original.jpg

 

The not very attractive, but cute in an ugly way, great egret chick:

original.jpg

 

OK, say 'cheese'!:

original.jpg

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How do you take close-ups zackiedawg? Do you crop?

 

Very little cropping - it's mostly taking advantage of the close-focus ability of that particular lens. When you get long-zoom lenses like the 100-400mm lens I used for those shots, different ones will have different minimum focus distance...the closer the minimum focus, plus the more zoom, the more magnification you can get. It's not a true 'macro' type lens where you get 1:1 ratio of magnification, but my lens for example can focus at 38 inches away from a subject, while zoomed to 400mm. The effect is that you can take a bug at about 3 feet away and fill the frame with it. Most cropping if any is just to adjust the composition, slight rotate of the frame, etc. I can even stick a 1.4x teleconverter on, so I'm shooting at 560mm, and still focus at 38 inches away - so you can even see the grids on the eyes of a dragonfly almost like a macro lens...all while standing 3-4 feet away and handheld...for me, much more convenient than the process typical to shoot real macro lenses which involves getting extremely close, using ring lights to illuminate, shooting on a tripod, etc. Because I'm usually out birding and shooting far away subjects, I need the ability to quickly shoot a bird at 100 feet, then switch to a dragonfly 3 feet away, and then back again, on the fly without changing lenses or screwing on closeup filters.

 

If you have a lens that doesn't have a good minimum focus distance, you can purchase special filters/lenses called 'closeup' lenses, which allow you to focus closer to a subject...some of these closeup lenses can do pretty well even with some general consumer-grade lenses.

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Very little cropping - it's mostly taking advantage of the close-focus ability of that particular lens. When you get long-zoom lenses like the 100-400mm lens I used for those shots, different ones will have different minimum focus distance...the closer the minimum focus, plus the more zoom, the more magnification you can get. It's not a true 'macro' type lens where you get 1:1 ratio of magnification, but my lens for example can focus at 38 inches away from a subject, while zoomed to 400mm. The effect is that you can take a bug at about 3 feet away and fill the frame with it. Most cropping if any is just to adjust the composition, slight rotate of the frame, etc. I can even stick a 1.4x teleconverter on, so I'm shooting at 560mm, and still focus at 38 inches away - so you can even see the grids on the eyes of a dragonfly almost like a macro lens...all while standing 3-4 feet away and handheld...for me, much more convenient than the process typical to shoot real macro lenses which involves getting extremely close, using ring lights to illuminate, shooting on a tripod, etc. Because I'm usually out birding and shooting far away subjects, I need the ability to quickly shoot a bird at 100 feet, then switch to a dragonfly 3 feet away, and then back again, on the fly without changing lenses or screwing on closeup filters.

 

If you have a lens that doesn't have a good minimum focus distance, you can purchase special filters/lenses called 'closeup' lenses, which allow you to focus closer to a subject...some of these closeup lenses can do pretty well even with some general consumer-grade lenses.

 

How can you tell what

minimum focus distance a lens has? I try to take close up pictures with my Nikon 70-300 lens zoomed all the way and I think I have to stand about 6 feet away and it doesn't look close-up. I have to crop (in camera) to get it close

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Exactly - online at that manufacturer's site, or often on the lens' box if you still have it, you can usually find out the minimum focus distance for a lens. The other method is just what you did - manually move the focus ring to the closest setting, then slowly walk back from a subject until it's in focus - then you'll know how close it focuses!

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Go to Nikon.com and under support you can view the manual which will give you the focus specifications

 

Exactly - online at that manufacturer's site, or often on the lens' box if you still have it, you can usually find out the minimum focus distance for a lens. The other method is just what you did - manually move the focus ring to the closest setting, then slowly walk back from a subject until it's in focus - then you'll know how close it focuses!

 

Thanks.

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