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'Discoverer-ing' Japan and the Philippines


Master Echo
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April 20 Hiroshima

 

 

Despite previous efforts, my cabin resembled a fridge, and getting out from under the snug duvet each morning was therefore something of an ordeal.At home of course one has central heating to offset the cold early morning.

 

Management agreed that the gaping holes in the balcony door fitment were unacceptable.Therefore during my absence today ashore, remedial actions would be taken.

 

I returned from my independent tour of Hiroshima to find a new rubber seal - not a replacement, but a new one, because there did not appear to have been one there previously for many years, - had been fitted. The GRM/Head Butler was waiting for me in reception on my return onboard to escort me to my cabin to point out the efforts made. I now have a cosy retreat as opposed to a meat cold store!!

 

The occupants of the adjoining cabin told me they had a similar problem but had not reported it?!

More on Hiroshima to follow.

 

Kindest regards

Master Echo

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Very interesting Master.We like some of the Discover's itineraries but didn't think the ship sounded as good as our favourite Explorer.We have just embarked at Mazlatan for our 9th cruise aboard.

Who is your Expedition Leader.With all the new Expedition ships there are quite a few new ones.We do have Robin Aiello onboard though.

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We have just embarked at Mazlatan for our 9th cruise aboard.
Dr. Ron,

 

We look forward to following your voyage up to Vancouver. Wave to our little Taylor as you sail past San Diego.

 

All our best to you and Ann.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Day 4 April 20 - Hiroshima

Today started with the ship anchored off Miyajima. It is famous for the so-called floating Torii Gate, which is situated in the sea, and only “floats” when the tide comes in. Torii Gates are used to mark the entrance to Shinto Temples in Japan, and this particular example is one of the iconic images of Japan

I have been to the island on a previous visit to Hiroshima, and decided as time ashore was very short, not to avail myself of the one organised tour, the first utilising the zodiac landing craft (used on expedition ships in place of a ship’s tender), which departed at 7.30 am!

Around noon the ship sailed across the bay and docked at Hiroshima. The ship’s tour was to the Atomic Bomb site, Peace Memorial Park and the museum, but I made my own arrangements, using one of the tour coaches to get me the long distance from the new docks (different to that used previously) to the centre of the city.

From here I caught a local tram to the railway station, from where I picked up one of the hop on hop off buses. Even the railway station had changed since my last visit in 2006 by virtue of the arrival of the high speed Shinkansen train. Despite my complete lack of any Japanese, I had no difficulty navigating my way around. Even the local tram made announcements in English.

By prior arrangement, i rejoined the tour coach for the return to the ship.

We have a Japanese tour leader onboard to facilitate as required, and she happened to be on my coach. Keiko said that 40% of the residents of Hiroshima when asked, did not know the significance of August 6th 1945, the day the first atomic bomb was dropped on the city. When asked the reason for this Keiko said people had forgotten, which I found astounding. A Japanese fellow passenger however, said when she was at school, much of the history of this period was never taught. It was only when she went to live in Australia, that she learned fully about events associated with the Second World War. She did not even know about Pearl Harbour, the bombing of Darwin, and the fall of Singapore, nor the involvement of the English and Australians.

 

We drew away from the quayside around 6.30 pm bound for our next port Moji.

 

Kindest regards

 

Master Echo

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Hello Drron29

 

In answer to your question as to who is the Expedition Leader - Lea McQuillan, a lovely Australian girl originally from Perth, with whom I had dinner on the Captain's Welcome evening.

 

Kindest regards

 

Master Echo

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Keiko said that 40% of the residents of Hiroshima when asked, did not know the significance of August 6th 1945, the day the first atomic bomb was dropped on the city. When asked the reason for this Keiko said people had forgotten, which I found astounding. A Japanese fellow passenger however, said when she was at school, much of the history of this period was never taught. It was only when she went to live in Australia, that she learned fully about events associated with the Second World War. She did not even know about Pearl Harbour, the bombing of Darwin, and the fall of Singapore, nor the involvement of the English and Australians.

 

Fascinating! Thank you for your informative reports, Master Echo. Looking forward to the next installment,

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Day 5 - April 21 - Moji

Tying alongside at 08.30 am, this port is only just under three hours by land from Hiroshima. It serves as a gateway to Kyushu as well as Honshu. This port is dominated by the Kanmon Bridge which connects Kyushu island with Honshu on the mainland. The Kanmon Strait has an incredible 700 ships which traverse it on a daily basis.

 

Initially there was only one shorex available, to yet another castle and to the Hiraodai Limestone Plateau, where the small pure white limestone which dots the area gives the impression of sheep grazing. This also gave you the opportunity to indulge in a little caving, which included walking through an underground calf length icy stream! Much to my joy, another opportunity for seeing a little more of the town, its people, and how they live was offered.

 

At 9.10 am, the coach left the quayside and drove up onto the Kanmon bridge, stopping at Mt Hinoyama lookout. This bridge was opened in November 1973 and connected to the Kyushu Expressway in March 1984. It is among the 50 largest suspension bridges in the world with a central length of 712 metres (2,336 feet), and is 141 metres high. Stopping here for a photo, Silver Discoverer appeared like a children’s toy sitting in the harbour. There were also some cannon and shelters, remnants of the conflict by the proud people of Kyushu Island against the oppressive Shinto emperor.

 

Retracing our steps to Shimonoseki, we visited the famous fish market - Karato. Being a Saturday morning with most local people on holiday, it was packed. Not as vast as the similar fish market in Manaus, it was full of sushi, sashimi dishes being prepared. Provision of a plastic container with chopsticks, enabled you to pick and choose your preference. Apparently tuna is the favourite fish of the Japanese and I was told they are by far the largest consumers in the world. In a very generous offer by SS, each passenger was given 1500 yen ($15) to spend on whatever they wished.

 

Eschewing the tuna, salmon etc, I decided to try the balloon fish. As its name suggests, it blows itself up to frighten its enemies. Indeed, like so many, these fish have poisonous parts, and it takes expertise to extract anything detrimental. Only certified chefs are allowed to prepare it for human consumption. There were two different qualities, I chose the better. Made up on a very attractive paper plate, it was set out like a fan, each thin slice of fish radiating out from the middle. In a little round plastic dish was a diced up herb in which you added the sachet of chilli and soya. This dish took all my pocket money, and in truth, I felt the fish was tasteless, needing the additions provided. This fish market was adjacent to the ocean, and most of the population brought their purchases across the road to sit on the wall, or on the grassy verge. This was quite an extraordinary sight, and I can think of few other places in the world, where people congregate at 10.30 am to eat fish!

 

From here we drove to the Chofu Samurai quarter, visiting the Mori house and the Kozanji temple. This was situated in several quiet streets in a residential area, with a stream running along one side, resplendent with the ubiquitous koi carp. These are only ornamental, and are not eaten, being considered sacred, like the cranes. I was told that they are dirty fish and have herpes!

 

After a leisurely stroll in this quiet peaceful backwater I returned to the coach waiting area and managed to grab a green tea ice cream cone which was delicious.

 

A short stop was made to allow some passengers to walk through the 780 metre long seabed Kanmon pedestrian tunnel, before being picked up at the exit and driven to the ship.

 

So ended a most delightful five hours affording some Japanese history, and at the same time interacting with the local population and seeing their everyday life.

 

Off at 4.30 pm the ship headed for our next port tomorrow - Kumamoto.

Kindest regards

Master Echo

 

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Moji postscript

Bill, an 87 year old US marine veteran, booked this cruise specifically because of the call at Moji.

 

In 1955-56, he was one of three officers stationed at Kokura Castle where he lived and worked for two years. One of the ship’s tours included a visit to the castle, and he had the opportunity to see his old office on the second floor, and how the surrounding barracks had all gone, yet his office was still the same!

 

How many other people would be able to visit their old office some sixty three years later! He is in fact a delightful gentleman, with many stories to tell.

 

Kindest regards

 

 

Master Echo

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Day 6 April 22 - Kumamoto

 

The raison d’etre for calling at this port is primarily to visit Kumamoto Castle, one of the biggest and most impressive castles in Japan, originally constructed in the fifteenth century. Unfortunately two years ago, almost to the day, Kumamoto was badly damaged in an earthquake with a 7.0 magnitude which hit Kyushu province, killing about 50 people and injuring over 3000.

 

Therefore the tour from the ship could only see the outside of the castle, due to extensive renovation work still continuing, which has reduced some parts to rubble.

 

Again, once onboard, SS offered another tour to Yamaga, a town some 39 kilometres from Kumamoto, but taking some hour and an half by road. Whilst the roads here and throughout Japan are very good, the speed limit is only 50-60 kmph.

Kumamoto is known as the island of fire and water. Apparently their free water comes from volcanic springs and is very pure. The people in other areas are not so fortunate and have to pay for their water. The prefecture is also famous for oysters and nori - Japanese seaweed. According to the guide, they have beef who are given a glass of beer each evening! Whether one can get a hangover from eating a steak is not known!

 

The countryside is quite reminiscent of the rolling hills of the UK with a backdrop of Scottish mountains. It also has a feel of Holland with many canals. Needless to say it is also a rice growing area. It is sad to hear that the farmers are elderly and are not able to cope, so many rice fields are left fallow. There are also a great number of polytunnels and many solar panels on the side of the road. Most of our travel was without much signs of any large town, until we got to the outskirts of Yamaga, which appears to be quite sizeable.

 

The history of the festival in Yamaga comes from an ancient story which tells how the Yamaga villagers helped the legendary Emperor Keiko (71 to 130 AD) and his followers who were lost in the middle of the fog by holding lighted pine torches in their hands to lead the way. The August 15th festival’s highlight is a dance by about a thousand girls, dressed in plain summer dresses with lighted paper lanterns on their heads.

 

The street where the Kabuki theatre, the first in Kyushu Island, is situated has many old houses reminiscent of Kyoto, the first time we have seen so many old wooden houses altogether. The theatre was built in 1910 by the merchants of Yamaga as a playhouse, following the style of the old Kabuki playhouses of the Edo period, 1603 to 1870 approximately.

 

Its heyday was in the 1920-1930’s and many major actors and performers have played here, however from the mid 60’s it ceased to attract many audiences, and was closed in the late 70’s. Falling into disrepair and on the verge of collapse, the citizens of the town undertook reconstruction of the roof in the late 80’s, and after further reconstruction work in the 90’s finally reopened in May 2001.

 

On arrival we entered this two storey building, taking off our shoes and putting them in a carrier bag which was supplied. The spectator’s seats are situated on a sloped floor, a little lower than the stage, are separated by wooden slats, with gallery seats to both left and right. The floor is covered with tatami mats, There is also both a first and second floor - similar to the “gods”’ and the theatre now accommodates about 750 people, and strung around the sides are red lanterns.

 

The ceiling is covered with picture boards, unique to this playhouse, which at the time of the last reconstruction, show the advertisement boards which were restored to represent the original paintings by the architect of the theatre. In the middle of the ceiling, overlooking the spectator’s seats is a painting of a phoenix bird. The brass chandelier which hangs from this point was originally lit by gas.

 

The stage was built with the ability to revolve, and we were taken “below stairs” to where this ingenious staging is located. Unlike our modern theatres, with electronic devices, these were operated manually by four Japanese, turning a large cedar post built into the floor of what is known as the Abyss - literally translated as Hell, like a human watermill turner! This underfloor area also has trapdoors, from where demons etc can suddenly appear on stage. There are little corridors leading from the runway, accessed by eight very steep steps, down to this underfloor Abyss.

Returning to the auditorium, we took our seats for the performance of six ladies who gracefully performed a couple of traditional dances to accompanying unseen musicians. At the end passengers were given the opportunity to emulate this troupe. I don’t think many took up the challenge!

 

We were then free to wander the street for shopping. Unfortunately bent on purchasing a small replica paper lantern, I left empty handed. One shop did sell them, but these were in a wooden box with a glass side. Extremely cumbersome and very expensive!

 

The drive back took the same route and I was home just before 6 pm.

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Master Echo,

 

Just a quick note to say thank you for your wonderful description of your visit to Japan. DW and I have only been to Tokyo and would like to entertain a voyage to see the cherry blossoms some day. So, you are really whetting our appetites.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Dear SS and Stumblefoot

 

Thank you for your kind words. I in fact compose off line, and then "copy and paste" to CC. From bitter experience, having lost a whole posting which disappeared into the ether, my option seems to be the safest! However Wi-Fi has been quite good since leaving Kobe.

 

 

As for the cherry blossom, this really is a hit and miss affair, like predicting the daily weather forecast. It had finished when I arrived in Kobe, although there are still remnants.

 

All for now - surprise lifeboat drill!!

 

Kindest regards

 

Master Echo

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Silver Discoverer - A personal view

 

 

This ship probably attracts more adverse comment than any other in the fleet. What follows is therefore a highly personal view based on nine days aboard and over 300 days on classic ships.

 

The ship was built in Japan in 1989 and does not have anything approaching the stylish lines one might expect for a ship even of that vintage. She has not worn well and repeated coats of paint cannot disguise this.

 

When in port the ship usually docks on the starboard side, which I was told is normal practice, so I have been fortunate to be “seaside” in all the ports so far. Anyone for whom this matters should therefore bear this in mind when choosing a cabin.

 

Arguably the major source of complaint on this cruise concerns the air conditioning. The Explorer lounge bar on Deck 4 and the dining room on Deck 3, have been freezing regardless of the time of day, until yesterday.

 

Several of the zodiac landing craft have liberal coverage of duct tape, and the rubber seams are peeling. Water seeping out of these craft on Deck 7 finds its way onto my balcony below. As noted previously, my balcony door does not fit anywhere, and I gather the others in adjacent cabins are in a similar condition. Mine at least now, has a fresh rubber seal which has made a marked improvement, but daylight can still be seen at the bottom of the door!

 

Perhaps, because only being just over 5,000 tons, Silver Discoverer rolls quite considerably even in a moderate sea state, and I found that entering my cabin, I was almost catapulted towards the balcony door, and she definitely has a lean to port!

 

The furniture and carpets in the public areas are better than some I have seen on some classic ships. Likewise my cabin furniture is in good order and not as chipped and gouged as some on ships in the classic fleet. The ship’s interior is kept spotlessly clean.

 

Daniele Franco, the HD and his team do everything they can in a very difficult situation to make the ship as “shipshape” as circumstances allow. They are also providing the same level of service as on other Silversea ships.

 

Dinner menus are broadly similar to those on other ships, except they are not quite as extensive. The en suite breakfast menu is identical, although the en suite dinner menu is certainly a miniature version.

 

The main service of breakfast lunch and dinner is in the Restaurant. Lunch service is however based on shore based activities. The pool grill is available as an additional lunch venue and Hot Rocks service in the evening. Dinner can also be served course by course en suite. Activity dependant, afternoon tea is served in the Discoverer Lounge, same deck as the Pool Grill. Tea and coffee is also always available in the former location.

 

The Expedition Leader and her team replace the CD and entertainment staff on classic ships, and daily briefings and lectures serve as entertainment. I chose this cruise to see more of Japan, not just Tokyo and Kyoto, and the shore based “expeditions” have by and large fulfilled this objective. The word expedition does not mean that every shore trip has been a fast hike along a difficult rainforest trail. On most days there has been at least one alternative activity. The excursion side has been well managed and executed.

 

On most of my cruises, it is necessary for Madame to have her hair cut, and this cruise was no exception. Unfortunately despite having the spa hours printed in the Chronicles, whenever she walked up to Deck 7, Spa location, there was no one there. On two occasions, a note posted on the door said “treatment in progress”. Finally after four days, she eventually found the door open, and the Spa Manager in residence, in fact the only member! Trained only to give massages/facials, she can provide a manicure if necessary, but is not able to cut hair.

 

When Madame queried why there was only one person, she did say that when she first joined, three months ago, there was one other person - though she too was not a hairdresser!!

 

Madame was astounded, so all you lovely passengers out there who wish to benefit from this service, do not sail on Silver Discoverer!! Madame suspects that this is not the fault of Silversea, but of Steiner who hold the concession for the Spa I would be interested to know if it is the same on the Explorer?

 

Although rumours have been circulating that the Silver Discoverer is to be decommissioned at the end of this season, itineraries are currently published up to summer 2019. However the full 2019 programme for all Silversea’s fleet, is yet to be published.

 

Finally, the small number of passengers has meant that something of an esprit de corps has developed generally.

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Some notes on a few random topics.

 

Four nights ago, Sir and Madame were invited to join the HD for dinner. At his suggestion a bespoke Indian meal was prepared by the Galley. The RDM/Head Butler and the GRM/Head Receptionist made up the table of five. Great food and great company made for a memorable evening.

 

Last night was the Venetian party, to which forty were invited. The previous evening, a similar party had been held for first timers. It appears that of the 92 reported passengers, only 65 are paying passengers.

 

To mark our passage from Japanese waters, on departure from Naha, Okinawa, the galley put on

a sushi and sake pre dinner event. The dinner menu included dim sum and a Japanese chicken curry, both of which were good.

 

A nice touch when returning to the ship after the day’s tour based activity, is the offer of a hot towel and a cold fruit punch.

Kindest regards

Master Echo

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Some notes on a few random topics.

 

 

 

Four nights ago, Sir and Madame were invited to join the HD for dinner. At his suggestion a bespoke Indian meal was prepared by the Galley. The RDM/Head Butler and the GRM/Head Receptionist made up the table of five. Great food and great company made for a memorable evening.

 

 

 

Last night was the Venetian party, to which forty were invited. The previous evening, a similar party had been held for first timers. It appears that of the 92 reported passengers, only 65 are paying passengers.

 

 

 

To mark our passage from Japanese waters, on departure from Naha, Okinawa, the galley put on

 

a sushi and sake pre dinner event. The dinner menu included dim sum and a Japanese chicken curry, both of which were good.

 

 

 

A nice touch when returning to the ship after the day’s tour based activity, is the offer of a hot towel and a cold fruit punch.

 

 

 

Kindest regards

 

 

 

Master Echo

 

 

 

Love your insights to the Discoverer, and just who are the other 27 non paying passengers?

 

 

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On my explorer cruise one month ago there were also non paying customers; mainly travel agents. I booked the lowest grade and got no upgrade but they were in the better cabins, even some of the expeditionstaff were in better cabins, a strange policy

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It appears that of the 92 reported passengers, only 65 are paying passengers.
Love your insights to the Discoverer, and just who are the other 27 non paying passengers?
Agree, love the insights. They have certainly made it clear to DW and I that we would not be a good fit for the Discoverer. And, like you Mr. Silver, I'd love to know why nearly one-third of the passengers are traveling for free. Maybe potential buyers of the ship perhaps?
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Our Discoverer trip also had many "family & friends" aboard.

The costs involved seem to be a moveable feast depending on the quality of the "connection".

This passenger category may be unique to Silversea given it's private ownership.

 

Silversea manage to inculcate great staff loyalty which translates into very good service.

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Dear SS and Stumblefoot

 

Thank you for your kind words. I in fact compose off line, and then "copy and paste" to CC. From bitter experience, having lost a whole posting which disappeared into the ether, my option seems to be the safest! However Wi-Fi has been quite good since leaving Kobe.

 

 

As for the cherry blossom, this really is a hit and miss affair, like predicting the daily weather forecast. It had finished when I arrived in Kobe, although there are still remnants.

 

All for now - surprise lifeboat drill!!

 

Kindest regards

 

Master Echo

 

Cherry blossoms arrived earlier than normal this year due to unseasonably warm weather. I was lucky enough to view them at their peak in early April in the Oaska/Kobe/Hiroshima areas but by the time I got to Tokyo a couple of weeks ago they had all but gone - as ME says timing it just right does involve a lot of luck!

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Day 8 April 24 Amami Oshima

 

Sailing ever southwards down the Japanese coast, we docked at this island of Amami Oshima, which has played a key role in the development of transportation, the economy and its industries for many years.

Unfortunately as on our previous port yesterday of Yakushima, the day dawned grey and miserable. Surprisingly I had expected the further south we travelled, the warmer and sunnier it would become. Docking at 1.00 pm, I departed promptly and found my allocated coach.

First stop was to the Oshimatsumigi Kimono Village which is known for the process of making tsumugi and kasuri silk cotton fabrics. This is a very labour intensive method of dyeing silk and weaving, which can take up to one year, depending on the particular process chosen. To enable dyeing of this silk can involve multiple washes in mud, particularly to dye some of the yarn, a black colour.

I was very sorry to learn that the silk now used in the manufacture of this famous product, comes from Brazil. A few of the ladies to whom we spoke had been weaving this product for some thirty years, so one can envisage that in the near future, the labour intensive nature of this manufacture will cease to be done by hand, and will be totally produced in a factory. This will inevitably be the case, not least, because of the high prices, these kimonos and other articles currently cost, which can run into five figures in $US!

 

Having walked round this mountain complex, with its myriad trees and shrubs, we drove to the coast and to our luncheon venue situated at Bashayamura Mura Kenmun Village, a lovely, quite extensive restaurant, adjacent to the ocean. Here we were served with a substantial meal, ostensibly consisting of a local speciality, Keihan, chicken, fish, egg and many vegetables, covered in chicken broth. There was also a bowl of miso soup, and another bowl containing rice. All very tasty and beautifully presented. There was also wine, beer, soft drink, or sake.

We were serenaded by two musicians playing the Shamisen, a three stringed traditional Japanese instrument and played with a plectrum.

 

With lunch over I had time to spend on the beach, either to swim, paddle or just soak up the atmosphere of this southern Japanese island. The weather had been kind, as the threatened afternoon rain, did not materialise until we started our return back to the pier and Silver Discoverer, where a local band played their hearts out in the ever increasingly heavy rain, before we threw off our last remaining ropes and sailed off to our last port in Japan, Naha, in Okinawa, tomorrow.

 

Kindest regards

 

Master Echo

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Day 9 April 25 Naha Okinawa

 

The island of Okinawa is some 685 kilometres from the southwestern tip of Kyushu, and is the largest of a string of some 70 odd islands in the Ryukyu group. Okinawa has a sub-tropical climate with an an abundance of coral reefs, emerald seas which attracts sunseekers, as well as a rich cultural heritage. It is of course also known for its World War 2 history, and indeed there is still a large American military presence here.

 

Naha, where Silver Discoverer docked, is some twenty minutes from downtown. It is situated in a very large bay and and can accommodate the large behemoths of today’s cruise world. Princess’s new ship, the Majestic Princess, the latest in their ‘Royal’ class fleet, with 3560 passengers and operating for the Chinese market, was also docked here.

 

I decided on independent exploration and took a waiting taxi outside the ferry/cruise terminal to the Makishi Public Market. This evokes some nostalgia for old Okinawa, a maze of long streets with alleyways darting off from left and right. There is an extensive fish market housed in a special covered part of the zone, which has drainage to enable the stall holders to have fresh water for their live crustaceans.

 

Business was brisk, local buyers with calculators, maybe trying to haggle on prices. Many of the species were new to me, but all very colourful. There was a particularly beautiful Abalone, in a red, green and mottled shell, which the stallholder said was not an Abalone, but it appears to be a species peculiar to Okinawa.

 

The major impression of this fish market was the lack of any fishy odour, merely the smell of the sea, denoting how fresh it all was.

 

This market seems to sell anything and everything, from clothes, food, kitchen equipment, and groceries, to dozens of sweets and chocolates in boxes and fancy wrappings. I also encountered a lady with a smattering of English standing in front of what looked like several grey bricks about four or five inches tall. When I asked what it was, she showed me a little box in which were small pieces of this product and asked me to have some. It was sugar, but oh so sweet, resembling our brown molasses sugar in the UK. Sugar cane is widely grown in southern Japan, and there was a man in the market using a very old wooden contraption, with a sharp edge, obviously specially made as a saw to cut the tough cane.

 

My time spent in this market was a microcosm of life in Japan, and acted as a small fascinating insight into Japanese everyday existence.

 

A final perspective on Japan will follow.

 

Kindest regards

 

Master Echo

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