Jump to content

Sony A7 III - My first look


pierces
 Share

Recommended Posts

I just finished my introduction to the Sony A7 III....both the article and my actual introduction to a very interesting bit of photographic technology. It's my first new camera in years and boy, have things changed.

 

Even if you're not in the market, take a look and see how far we've come in two decades of consumer digital cameras.

 

http://www.pptphoto.com/reviews/a7iii_frame.html

 

Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not much time spent with my new friend this weekend. Springtime planting and all.

 

I did get a few shots off at a local mall that's undergoing rejuvenation.

 

Clearing the path

p2835202839-5.jpg

 

 

All stores except that one...

p2835202841-5.jpg

 

 

Even pulling shadows from JPEGs is pretty easy

p2835202842-5.jpg

 

 

Still struggling with depth of field. Now I remember why "f/8 and be there" was such good advice for getting a great photo.

 

p2835202844-5.jpg

 

 

f/5.6 just doesn't cut it for front to back sharpness. I usually try to isolate which will benefit from the larger sensor, but is adds a level of effort when everything has to be in focus.

 

p2835202840-5.jpg

 

Everything old is new again...

 

 

Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not much time spent with my new friend this weekend. Springtime planting and all.

 

I did get a few shots off at a local mall that's undergoing rejuvenation.

 

Clearing the path

p2835202839-5.jpg

 

 

All stores except that one...

p2835202841-5.jpg

 

 

Even pulling shadows from JPEGs is pretty easy

p2835202842-5.jpg

 

 

Still struggling with depth of field. Now I remember why "f/8 and be there" was such good advice for getting a great photo.

 

p2835202844-5.jpg

 

 

f/5.6 just doesn't cut it for front to back sharpness. I usually try to isolate which will benefit from the larger sensor, but is adds a level of effort when everything has to be in focus.

 

p2835202840-5.jpg

 

Everything old is new again...

 

 

Dave

 

mmmm.... bacon

 

You'll get used to the DOF. After a while, when you go back to aps-c, it will feel like you get so little separation.

 

Ultimately, it becomes a real test of perfectly placed focus, great posing of subject portraits.

You have a lot less room for error when shooting full frame.

 

40737973534_10698519a4_b.jpgFirst spring flowers by Adam Brown, on Flickr

Link to comment
Share on other sites

mmmm.... bacon

 

Not just bacon, my friend. That is homemade bacon. Truly awesome, applewood smoked and peppered homemade bacon! We started curing and smoking our own a couple of years ago and haven't sullied our palates with store-bought bacon since. :)

 

p1066898727-4.jpg

 

You have a lot less room for error when shooting full frame.

 

Yeah. I guess it's good that I'm not young and hasty anymore.

 

Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not just bacon, my friend. That is homemade bacon. Truly awesome, applewood smoked and peppered homemade bacon! We started curing and smoking our own a couple of years ago and haven't sullied our palates with store-bought bacon since. :)

 

p1066898727-4.jpg

 

 

 

You officially have a standing invitation to dinner if you visit the east coast.. and bring the bacon.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ooooohhh, bacon! That's actually a very nice cut in terms of how the fat is spread out.

 

We've gotten pretty good at picking the pork belly so we get 10 lbs of bacon and not a block of pork fat.

 

I'd like to point out that posts like this aren't considered off-topic if they include bacon.

 

:)

 

 

 

 

Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

LOL, I do have an on topic question for you experienced Sony users.

 

I can't, for the life of me, figure out the purpose of Aperture priority mode or Program mode on the A7iii. I set a minimum shutter speed of, say, 1/125 (why is it limited to such weird steps; my Nikon had more and more logical placed steps for shutter speeds). However, if it's dark, it ignores my minimum and goes as slow as it wants.

 

The only way to fix that, is to allow for an extremely high ISO.

 

On my old Nikon, I'd set a minimum shutter speed of, say, 1/150. My max ISO is 6,000. Yes, the picture might be under exposed. However, due to the wonderful Sony sensor in that Nikon, I can just bring it back in post. I often take shots in crappy lighting, and sometimes, my subject will be completely in shadow. I don't care, as I can just bring it back in post as if they were in broad daylight. Keeping it at ISO 6000 or below was great for keeping noise at a level a liked.

 

I have the same issues with autofocus (the camera wants to aim at things that aren't the subject), but I just have to remember to put the camera in the proper autofocus mode for the situation. There's way more to keep track of than I'm used to, but it's just practice.

 

Anyways, is Manual mode my only option? Why even have A mode or P mode? I used to just shoot in Aperture priority mode as I often liked to force and keep track of just aperture. I didn't care what shutter speed or ISO it was, as long as they stayed within my predefined limits. Does Manual mode even do this? So far, I'd like to choose my Aperture manually, and let the camera figure out shutter speed and ISO, provided it won't go below 1/125 and ISO stays from 100 to 12,500. No exceptions (really annoying that Sony allows the camera to basically say, screw you human, I do what I want).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In A mode, I have my ISO Auto Min SS (I have it in my Fn menu) set to whatever suits my target at the time, I usually have it set to 1/30s before it bumps the ISO but if I am shooting action, I will either set it to a higher value or just jump to S mode.

 

If you haven't run into the setting before, the ISO Auto Min SS setting is the lowest shutter speed the system will allow before bumping ISO up to maintain that minimum. If it hits your max auto ISO value it will drop bellow the minimum setting.

 

The setting is in Camera 1, page 9.

 

Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Anyways, is Manual mode my only option? Why even have A mode or P mode? I used to just shoot in Aperture priority mode as I often liked to force and keep track of just aperture. I didn't care what shutter speed or ISO it was, as long as they stayed within my predefined limits. Does Manual mode even do this? So far, I'd like to choose my Aperture manually, and let the camera figure out shutter speed and ISO, provided it won't go below 1/125 and ISO stays from 100 to 12,500. No exceptions (really annoying that Sony allows the camera to basically say, screw you human, I do what I want).

 

You're pretty much running into the exposure limits for the ISO range you selected. As Dave mentioned, minimum shutter speed in ISO settings are the floor shutter speed you will get before the ISO gets raised to properly expose. If you're in A priority, say at F4, with Auto ISO at 100-3200 and min. shutter 1/125...and the scene you're trying to shoot at F4 and 1/125 will require ISO 25,400 to properly expose...the camera will go to the max ISO setting you provided, before then resorting to dropping the shutter speed. Essentially, it will try to stick to all of your limits, but once all of your limits are going to underexpose, the first thing it's willing to throw out the door will be the Auto ISO min. shutter speed. The one solution is to raise the auto ISO range...then the camera will use those higher ISOs as needed. If your intention was to underexpose the scene, and you WANTED the camera to stay at 1/125 even if underexposed, then you could always dial in some - EV, so the camera won't need to drop the shutter speed.

It's not really a 'screw you human' - because it will TRY to stick to your settings for as long as it can...but it eventually reaches a point where it says 'hey, human - you want me to expose this scene, but you told me NOT to change the aperture, and NOT to go above this ISO, and also to NOT allow the shutter lower...but I need to adjust one of those in order to properly expose...so, sorry human, but something's gotta give, and I'm taking your Auto ISO min shutter speed to be the least important of your limits...because if shutter speed was more important, you'd be in shutter priority, not aperture priority!".

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In A mode, I have my ISO Auto Min SS (I have it in my Fn menu) set to whatever suits my target at the time, I usually have it set to 1/30s before it bumps the ISO but if I am shooting action, I will either set it to a higher value or just jump to S mode.

 

If you haven't run into the setting before, the ISO Auto Min SS setting is the lowest shutter speed the system will allow before bumping ISO up to maintain that minimum. If it hits your max auto ISO value it will drop bellow the minimum setting.

 

The setting is in Camera 1, page 9.

 

Dave

 

I set that ISO Auto Min SS setting. It's actually one of my custom buttons too for easy access. What I want is for Sony not to drop below the minimum setting even if I hit my max auto ISO value. Basically, I'd rather sacrifice exposure for less noise.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I set that ISO Auto Min SS setting. It's actually one of my custom buttons too for easy access. What I want is for Sony not to drop below the minimum setting even if I hit my max auto ISO value. Basically, I'd rather sacrifice exposure for less noise.

 

I did a double check and here's the official statement:

 

Note

 

  • If the exposure is insufficient even when the ISO sensitivity is set to [iSO AUTO Maximum] in [iSO AUTO], in order to shoot with an appropriate exposure, the shutter speed will be slower than the speed set in [iSO AUTO Min. SS].

Leave feedback at the Sony site. They have a strong recent history of listening to users.

 

Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I set a minimum shutter speed of, say, 1/125 (why is it limited to such weird steps; my Nikon had more and more logical placed steps for shutter speeds).

 

BTW - I'm not sure how Nikon does it in their various cameras or the model you had, but Sony's min. shutter speed settings are in 1 stop increments...possibly your Nikon allowed 1/2 stop or 1/3 stop shutter speed increments, so you may have had more shutter speeds to choose from.

 

The Sony auto ISO min. shutter setting also has 'standard', 'slow', 'fast', 'slower' and 'faster' options you can choose. Standard will default to a 1-over-focal rule, slow and fast are 1 stop below and above, and slower & faster are two stops. Depending on what lens you're using, that could help you get to some of those incremental shutter speeds...for example, using an 85mm lens at standard should let you use a 1/80 shutter speed, in between the 1/60 and 1/125 full stop settings.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I set that ISO Auto Min SS setting. It's actually one of my custom buttons too for easy access. What I want is for Sony not to drop below the minimum setting even if I hit my max auto ISO value. Basically, I'd rather sacrifice exposure for less noise.

 

That would be where dialing in some negative EV would fix the problem. If the camera exposes the scene and drops your shutter speed to 1/60, dial in -1EV and it should adjust back to 1/125 where you wanted it, and just underexpose by a stop.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I set that ISO Auto Min SS setting. It's actually one of my custom buttons too for easy access. What I want is for Sony not to drop below the minimum setting even if I hit my max auto ISO value. Basically, I'd rather sacrifice exposure for less noise.

 

You really shouldn't be hitting that situation all too often. But yes, the metering will reduce the shutter speed AFTER the maximum ISO is hit. -- reduces the shutter speed as a last resort.

So yes, I suppose in cases where you find that happening, go to M mode. Or intentionally expose to the left -- dial in some negative exposure compensation.

 

I use a combination of M and A. My main reason for avoiding M -- I sometimes have the shutter speed too slow if I move from shadow into bright sunlight. In other words, I might have 1/500, taking portrait in a shadow. Move over to direct sunlight, it doesn't immediately occur to me that I'm going to need a much faster shutter speed. This was a bigger problem with the Nikon -- with the Sony, IF I have the live effect display on, then I see I'm blown out pretty quickly.

 

So A-priority with a minimum shutter speed works well for me. I keep my maximum ISO pretty high -- as long as the image is properly exposed, there is a lot of latitude there.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I did a double check and here's the official statement:

 

Note

 

  • If the exposure is insufficient even when the ISO sensitivity is set to [iSO AUTO Maximum] in [iSO AUTO], in order to shoot with an appropriate exposure, the shutter speed will be slower than the speed set in [iSO AUTO Min. SS].

Leave feedback at the Sony site. They have a strong recent history of listening to users.

 

I'll do that. I don't necessarily mind that they do this, I'd just like an option to make the camera listen to me. I mean, at this level of a camera, you'd think you'd trust the operator a little bit. I mean, they had to make the choice to listen to a user set cap somewhere. If they can make the camera listen to the user set ISO cap by then going for a slower shutter speed than the minimum, they can listen the other way.

 

That would be where dialing in some negative EV would fix the problem. If the camera exposes the scene and drops your shutter speed to 1/60, dial in -1EV and it should adjust back to 1/125 where you wanted it, and just underexpose by a stop.

 

I'll try the negative EV. I mean, it doesn't happen a lot, but again, sometimes I'm in crappy lighting situations and in no position to improve it. Like when I'm sitting in the audience somewhere and can't move. If they've got such an incredible sensor with amazing dynamic range, if the original shot isn't perfectly exposed, just let me take the picture and I'll recover in post.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The 28-70 is not a horrible lens. if I hadn't owned the A-mount 16-50 f/2.8 or the 18-105 f/4 G, I would be more impressed. As it is, it is a very serviceable kit lens with good enough performance for me to keep as a more compact business travel option. The bokeh is not pretty but isn't as bad as some kitters out there.

 

Baby grapes

p2837960176-5.jpg

 

 

Baby grapes - Center crop

p2837949247-5.jpg

 

 

Sidelined gnomes waiting for the garden redux

p2837963308-5.jpg

 

 

Looks like the first week in May for my 24-105. At least I'll have it in time for the next cruise!

 

Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Update time.

 

Spent a long weekend with the camera out in the real world while visiting my son in Houston. I actually didn't take many photos because we mainly went there to watch the new Avengers movie. What I did was make the whole four day trip shooting 250 or so random photos with a lot of chimping and fiddling with new controls on one battery. Most of the photos were play-with-the-new-camera shots and eminently disposable.

 

Casual shot to show light levels in restaurant. AEL Locked on bottles. 1/60s - f/5.6 - ISO5000

p2846208960-5.jpg

 

 

Server igniting orange oil squeezed from the garnish. part of a burst where the metering followed the sudden changes in light level in the darkened restaurant perfectly. 1/15s - f/5.6 - ISO12800 Straight out of camera.

p2846208963-5.jpg

 

Goodies for sale. 1/60s - f/5.6 - ISO1250

p2846208980-5.jpg

 

And...an actual selfie! (Actually, an avatar update.)

p2846334927-5.jpg

 

 

Getting used to a new camera is a good reason not to change bodies very often. A major PITA. However, it looks like this switch will be worth it to me in the long run.

 

The color is great.

 

The high-ISO performance is magical (to me) and I can't wait for some time in a dark sky area.

 

Focus will take getting used to. It isn't an issue with speed or accuracy as both are better than pretty much anything out there.The problem is with 693 points covering nearly the entire frame, sometimes there's too much of it. I have resorted to restricting it to zone or center area when not tracking something. Custom button assignment makes it easy to shift between areas or modes and moving the focus point with the joystick or touch screen is another easy to use option.

 

Yay, battery!

 

Shockingly, the 28-70mm kit lens Is not as sharp as a Zeiss prime or a G Master zoom. It shows some moderate chromatic aberration and purple fringing (both easily corrected in Lightroom). It is also a little soft in the corners wide open. (The same corners that are almost always out of focus anyway as I seldom compose a picture with the main subject in the extreme edges or corners of the frame.) Other than these relative non-issues, it may be one of the best $200 lenses on the market! ;) Granted, I will likely have the FE 24-105 f/4 G on the camera as much as I now have the 18-105 on the A6300 and I may find that I won't actually use it much. If I don't find I need it as a more compact casual travel option, it may get sold. For now it has a home.

 

I'll keep adding sample images to my A7III sample gallery HERE. It should really get interesting in a week or so if my 24-105 arrives when promised.

 

 

To be continued...

 

Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

U

Casual shot to show light levels in restaurant. AEL Locked on bottles. 1/60s - f/5.6 - ISO5000

p2846208960-5.jpg

Dave

 

Why do I have the feeling of being an abandoned child? :confused:

 

That shot in the bar - very impressive!

 

I took the liberty of snagging your photo of the coffee cup (when you were waiting at the airport) and fooling around with it in Aurora and Lightroom - very impressive!

 

Hope you had a good visit!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Why do I have the feeling of being an abandoned child? :confused:

 

There's still a lot of APS-C love here in the forum! I still have my APS-C cameras and the FE telephoto will be used on both formats. I won't even mention the rumors of an announcement in late May from Sony...

 

Damn! I mentioned it!

 

That shot in the bar - very impressive!

 

 

What I like is that it looks exactly like it did to my eyes. Very dim bar with lights over each dining table.

 

I took the liberty of snagging your photo of the coffee cup (when you were waiting at the airport) and fooling around with it in Aurora and Lightroom - very impressive!

 

Hard to tell which is which...apparently. I mistakenly labeled the RAW and JPEG images in reverse. I keep telling people there's still a lot of latitude in JPEG. :)

 

Hope you had a good visit!

 

Always!

 

Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can't wait for that A6700. A9's EVF with no blackout and real-time view, larger FZ battery, 20fps with tracking on 600 focus points, 3 jog dials, dual card slots, back-illuminated 34MP APS-C sensor with ISO 204,800 max, night-vision mode with IR transmitters good for 100 feet, 8K 60fps UHD video, 20-frame in camera stacking for HDR & MFNR & focus stacking with auto-alignment, IP68 water-resistance, wireless charging, next gen touch screen with gesture control, 6-stop 5-axis sensor stabilization, built-in 4k projector for video and still playback, RAW-editing in-camera, and 7 levels of RAW ranging from uncompressed and 6 stages of compression. Rumored price $799 body-only, or $1,099 with the 18-135mm kit lens, make it a killer deal! (I'mma start holding my breath right now...)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can't wait for that A6700. A9's EVF with no blackout and real-time view, larger FZ battery, 20fps with tracking on 600 focus points, 3 jog dials, dual card slots, back-illuminated 34MP APS-C sensor with ISO 204,800 max, night-vision mode with IR transmitters good for 100 feet, 8K 60fps UHD video, 20-frame in camera stacking for HDR & MFNR & focus stacking with auto-alignment, IP68 water-resistance, wireless charging, next gen touch screen with gesture control, 6-stop 5-axis sensor stabilization, built-in 4k projector for video and still playback, RAW-editing in-camera, and 7 levels of RAW ranging from uncompressed and 6 stages of compression. Rumored price $799 body-only, or $1,099 with the 18-135mm kit lens, make it a killer deal! (I'mma start holding my breath right now...)

 

Put. The. Bottle. Down.

 

 

Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now
 Share

  • Forum Jump
    • Categories
      • Welcome to Cruise Critic
      • New Cruisers
      • Cruise Lines “A – O”
      • Cruise Lines “P – Z”
      • River Cruising
      • ROLL CALLS
      • Digital Photography & Cruise Technology
      • Special Interest Cruising
      • Cruise Discussion Topics
      • UK Cruising
      • Australia & New Zealand Cruisers
      • Canadian Cruisers
      • North American Homeports
      • Ports of Call
      • Cruise Conversations
×
×
  • Create New...