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Report after 08-19 March 2018 Trollfjord RT - "We saw THE LIGHTS" :-)


GeezerCouple
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We returned home just after midnight this morning from our Round Trip on Hurtigruten's Trollfjord.

 

First comment: We saw MAGICAL NORTHERN LIGHTS! :)

Beyond anything we could have imagined...

We saw them on three nights, during a trip that tended to have lousy, cloudy weather, so this was especially wonderful.

 

The first time, we saw what has been reported as "vague, gray cloud-like brushed lines moderately low in the sky". We considered this "a success", but certainly not a "smashing success", especially because we had been warned that the Lights might look just like this (and perhaps no more).

 

The second time... we saw similar, but more of it, higher in the sky, and with a definite "hint of green" [see note below about "color"]. This time, we agreed: SUCCESS!

 

And then there was The Third Time: Lights covering the sky at times, but frequently showing clearly over much of the sky, and with STRONG colors. And the lights were dancing... curtain-like waves that marched across small areas of the sky, and then "repeat"... WOW!

 

Two caveats:

First, we happened to be lucky in that there was an unpredictable solar storm that sent extra "activity" our way. Also, the skies/clouds cooperated, and allowed us to see the best display on the second night of the solar storm's arrival (no such luck the first, but we knew by then that we'd have a second chance).

 

Also, it does seem (no surprise) that different people have different sensory thresholds. DH and I compared our experiences quite a bit afterwards, and it does seem that I saw much more color than he did. He apparently did *not* see the same vivid colors that I saw. (By "vivid", I do *not* mean that "glowing color" - especially the greens - that often are shown in photos... nothing quite that striking, but plenty impressive nevertheless.) That couldn't be a function of "naked eye" vs. "photos", because we both were "just looking skyward".

 

Given the uncertainty about "what can be seen with the naked eye", we wanted to get this part "out there" first.

We feel very fortunate to have had the experience we had, especially that third time.

 

But it also seems that there were several just as good, or even better, experiences earlier this year, per our Astronomy Group leader, who was there on previous voyages this winter season, so he could personally (and professionally) compare.

 

I'll report more on other aspects of the cruise in subsequent posts.

Suffice it for now to say that the Hurtigruten Trollfjord "exceeded our expectations" (as trite as that phrase has become) a LOT, from the ship itself, the crew, and the quality of the food (and please note that although DH will eat many types of food, I am a fussy eater, and it was not a problem at all - a terrific surprise). Some of the food was actually "very good".

(This seemed to be the view of a few really nice other passengers that we had the privilege of spending some time with. The dining crew also seemed to handle two of their "special dietary requests" very well.)

I think reading about the pros/cons of Hurtigruten here on CC helped us to set expectations just about right, although DH reported that he felt I had downplayed things in advance, so he was even more positively surprised. (NO way did I want to have him overestimate things and then be disappointed, right!? ;) )

 

The time went much too fast.

 

Question: I'm not sure how best to post. Should I continue here, also answering questions (gratefully, for those posts that helped us so much in advance) and then cut and paste and post in a proper "Review" elsewhere, or just head straight to the Review section?

 

GC

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Please post here. I am going on the Trollfjord in October and would appreciate some information. Was check in easy? Were you allowed to give your luggage in Bergen before you actually checked in or hours before you boarded? Did you do the ceremony crossing the Arctic Circle?

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Please post here. I am going on the Trollfjord in October and would appreciate some information. Was check in easy? Were you allowed to give your luggage in Bergen before you actually checked in or hours before you boarded? Did you do the ceremony crossing the Arctic Circle?

 

We were able to stay at our hotel until mid-afternoon (and otherwise, we would have just left our luggage there), so we didn't try to leave luggage at the dock area. I don't know how/how well that works.

 

We arrived about 3 (??), given that we wouldn't be able to get into cabins/suites until about 6pm, and we figured seating would be tricky in the public areas. We had a suite, and there was a separate (small) room for suite guests, and it didn't appear to get crowded there. We didn't wander around very much as 6pm approached, so I don't know about the other public areas, but we were generally impressed that at no time during the cruise did "seating in public areas" seem to be a problem, although "prime window seating" was often taken (but surprisingly, not even all of that!). And apparently the ship was "sold out", although there were very few children (we saw only two young ones in one family), probably because this was a long-ish cruise during the regular school year. Holidays/summers might be different... also meaning that some of the extra bunks in some cabins might be then used, so there might also be more passengers in total then.

 

They "did" the "Crossing The Arctic Circle" Ceremony, but we personally didn't participate. (The area was crowded, and it was extremely difficult to see anything. That could have been handled better, perhaps with a mini-stage for the activity.) Participation might be more fun when the weather is warmer :eek:

 

GC

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We leave in 2 days for our RT on the Polarlys and your post just heightened our excitement! Keep posting here and I will try and follow as we go to pick up on suggestions you might have. If you think of anything that we should know that would be great.

 

 

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We leave in 2 days for our RT on the Polarlys and your post just heightened our excitement! Keep posting here and I will try and follow as we go to pick up on suggestions you might have. If you think of anything that we should know that would be great.

 

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Oh, we envy you.... we wish we were still on our cruise. Twelve days seemed so nice and long when we first arrived on the ship, and then... Poof! It seemed to be over so suddenly. (But I guess that also shows what a great time we had.)

 

There has been a lot of comment about water/water-package. Here is what we found: There seems to be a "carafe" (rather odd looking tall container) of water provided to each table. I don't know if there were refills available, but heard no requests for that (or grumblings about it). We prefer sparkling water, so we got the "water package", which was available for sparkling or natural bottled water. Supposedly there was one bottle given pp, for lunch and dinner. We heard, later, that there wasn't really a limit like that. We did ask for water at breakfast a couple of times, and received it without question...

 

But IF you want it, then get the package right at the start. (Someone gave us a few extra bottles right when we started, which was after the cruise began, because we didn't realize about it. We like to keep hydrated, and it's especially important in the cold, DRY air up there in the winter!)

 

We didn't do too many excursions, as part of our goal, in addition to hopes of Northern Lights, was to *relax*.

We did the Midnight Concert in Tromso, which we thoroughly enjoyed!

We went to the Russian Border (and toured where Kirkenes residents hid in underground shelters), and it was... "strange". That might mean more to those who are older, like us, because we grew up in the era of "air raid drills" in grade school, when the "cold war" wasn't seeming quite so cold...

We also went to the Planetarium in Tromso on the NB trip, but that was part of the Astronomy Package, not a regular Hurtigruten tour. (The speaker we had, Dr. John Mason, was just fabulous. He was one of the most enthusiastic "lecturers" we've ever had, anywhere. It was fun, and also educational.)

[i also have a bit of a mobility issue, so we don't always like to take some types of group tours, if there is a concern I might need to rest, etc.]

 

There had been avalanches, so the excursion to the North Cape was cancelled.

The Captain kindly left the port (during an extended stop) and cruised over to the area, and we could see the huge globe "marker" at the very top, albeit at quite a distance. He then returned to that stop to pick up those who had gotten off, of course.

 

If you have any dietary needs, make sure you contact someone in the Dining Room about that right away. They seemed very good at dealing with those things. And although we didn't do this, we had heard that if you "just prefer something else", if you tell them in advance, they'll substitute something. (The dinner menus are posted by lunch time; breakfast and lunch are buffets, and there is *plenty* to choose from.)

 

The SCENERY was just breathtaking at times.

The very first morning, quite early, we woke up and saw what appeared to be a mountain (it wasn't really a *mountain*) right in front of our faces, or so it seemed. One the return, in the same area, we saw that again, and crossed paths with another ship just setting out... and we commented about whether some of them were just waking up the same way we had, not too many days earlier :)

 

We had quite a few snow squalls. They seemed to come up suddenly, and a few times really strong, and then... they were sometimes gone, with blue sky peeking through again.

So do keep your notification "on", even if you go to sleep and it's totally cloudy. For all the jokes at various places about "weather changing fast", that was especially true there. Of course, the ship was also moving, so that helped (and that was one reason we took the cruise rather than spending more time in just Tromso, for example).

We apparently slept through the third notification on that "second night" of Northern Lights, at about 2am. It was supposedly the best of the three appearances that night, so we were really sorry we missed it. However, the next night... that was when there were the *best* Lights, so we are happy campers :D

 

IF the weather is cold (and possible even if not), if you are up on the top deck late at night to see lights, the WIND, in the cold, was BRUTAL. Take that seriously. We brought our regular wind/water-resistant winter jackets, but the first time, we didn't bother to put on our wind/water-resistant pants on (we had them from our Alaska cruise, where we thought we needed them for one excursion), and My Goodness! Especially, if you plan to be on deck for extended times to take photos, then really do take it seriously.

 

It's true that you can bring on board just about any beverages, etc. There was no inspection. They just ask that you not bring your own beverages into the Dining Room. (We didn't see anyone trying to do that.)

We found the wine list surprisingly good (we like nice wine), and we found something we really liked that was available by the glass, which is very unusual. (The "good stuff" is usually available only by the bottle, and we weren't there for very long leisurely dinners.)

 

The other passengers were an interesting assortment, speaking quite a few languages, which was nice.

 

Crossing the Arctic Circle, in addition to The Ceremony, there was a special beverage (in a souvenir cup/mug, so cute, that we bought two additional ones for friends) and some "Troll Soup", which seemed to have some little shrimp in the bottom, a real surprise. DH didn't seem to get much of the shrimp, and I had quite a few, so we shared...

 

Take the time to watch the approach to the Trollfjord, which ships can't go into in the winter.

That entry was *narrow*. We'd like to return to be ON a ship that really does go into that narrow entrance :eek:

 

Enjoy! It was a GREAT trip.

 

GC

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Geezer Couple, thank you for the reply. I am not in a suite, but good to hear that seating by the windows will be easy to get. I will be traveling a bit before I go to this cruise, and I am not sure what my luggage situation will be. Usually I can travel with one suitcase, but I might need two. That is why I asked about luggage. Did you speak with the Captain of the ship? I have a certificate that I would like signed. Did you do the Midnight concert? I was thinking I may do that. The North Cape excursion, did you do that one? Did you attend any of the lectures? The cruise I am on is called an Astronomy Cruise, I think that is what you were on? Sorry for all the questions, I appreciate that you are willing to answer.

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Thanks so much for all the information. We do have our wind/rain gear to go on top of our outer wear as well as strap on spikes for our shoes in case we run into icy pavement. As the OP also said we generally pack very light when we travel but can’t seem to get things to fit in our usual carry on’s.

 

Do you recall the cost of the water package as we like sparkling water to drink as well and are considering making that purchase as well.

 

We have signed up for several excursions and the North Cape is one, hopefully we will be able to participate but I have been reading of the threat of avalanches for several of the ports.

 

Thanks again for all the helpful information!

 

 

 

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Geezer Couple, thank you for the reply. I am not in a suite, but good to hear that seating by the windows will be easy to get. I will be traveling a bit before I go to this cruise, and I am not sure what my luggage situation will be. Usually I can travel with one suitcase, but I might need two. That is why I asked about luggage. Did you speak with the Captain of the ship? I have a certificate that I would like signed. Did you do the Midnight concert? I was thinking I may do that. The North Cape excursion, did you do that one? Did you attend any of the lectures? The cruise I am on is called an Astronomy Cruise, I think that is what you were on? Sorry for all the questions, I appreciate that you are willing to answer.

 

I hope you had a chance to read my post just above yours, which I probably posted as you were typing yours.

It addresses some of your questions. If there's anything else, please let me know, and I'll try to answer it.

 

About the luggage: We took a taxi to the Hurtigruten dock, and there is *NO* assistance with luggage there, period, prior to the actual check-in desk.

[And we didn't travel "light" WHEN will we learn? Er, we've "learned", but when will we be able to do it? We feel like our assorted medical supplies swamp everything else, but that's not really true, although that stuff does take up far too much room in the carry-on bags. We don't dare check such items, obviously.]

There were a few places to sit, mostly unoccupied (surprisingly), so we arranged for me to sit with some of the bags, while DH waited in the line with just two, and as he approached the check-in desk, we then moved the others over.

The line was very orderly, and moved faster that it first appeared.

The time/length of line might be quite different at other times or on other days, of course.

 

We had read that "dress" was really casual. Well, I guess "casual" is in the eyes of the beholder, etc.

I definitely packed TOO casually, which ticked me off, as I like to dress a bit "nice" (but I do NOT any longer relish traveling with lots of dressy frocks or such). I wish I had brought a few "fancier" tops, even if to wear with jeans.

But don't misunderstand: There were NOT any long gowns/tuxes seen (or, we didn't see anything even remotely like that, not even business suits much). OTOH, everyone was neat (no baseball hats or such, worn forwards or backwards, or should I say, forward or aft? ;))

The passengers were all seemingly quite nice, and polite. (VERY nice, compared with one "difficult" holiday cruise on a non-luxe line/ship... one that also had hoards of children racing around uncontrolled...)

 

We saw the Captain a few times but never spoke to him.

If you "need something", inquire at the Reception Desk (it was on Deck 4 on the Trollfjord). We found the crew very pleasant to deal with, quite a nice surprise.

 

We did get "Certificates" that we had crossed the Arctic Circle.

I think we'll get cheap frames for them; that's sort of a pleasantly odd thing to have on a wall :D

 

Yes, we were on one of Hurtigruten's "Astronomy" packages. Our particular lecturer, Dr. John Mason, was phenomenal. One of the best lecturers we've ever encountered, anywhere. Enthusiasm galore, and extremely knowledgeable.

 

I *really* want to try to be responsive to questions here, in return for all of the very significantly helpful information we had received in advance. It all really helped make our trip better. (Again, special thanks to SarniaLo and hallasm; do try to read their posts, too.)

 

GC

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I really appreciate your posts, as I am considering a similar trip.

 

Regarding two people seeing things differently, several years ago I had cataract operations on both eyes. Since they only do one eye at a time, I had an interval where one eye was with and one without cataract. A huge difference in how I saw colors. Essentially the eye still with the cataract saw things with a yellow filter.

 

With / Without

 

Orangish red / Red

Robin's egg blue / Pure pastel blue (Walls at friend's house)

Taupe / Grey (Neighbor's house)

Green / Blue-green

 

I post this just in case there might be some relevance for you.

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