Jump to content

Journey to the Ring of Fire


Flamin_June
 Share

Recommended Posts

Well, here we are in Bali, waiting to join Sojourn in just a couple of days, and then sailing on to some quite remote parts of Indonesia: Sulawesi, the Malaku Sea and the Spice Islands - Banda, Ambon, Ternate, and on to the Phillipines and Hong Kong.

It's an amazing itinerary (unusual to me, at any rate), following in the the footsteps of Alfred Russel Wallace, for much of the first couple of weeks. He explored these islands 160 years ago and wrote about it in The Malay Archipelago. I'll try to do a blog, though it's not likely to be up to Wallace's standard.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

FlaminJune - This is a truly wonderful itinerary - the original Spice Islands. We first went to Banda in 1990 as a land-based trip and it was there that we ran into an expedition ship called World Discoverer. The owner of the little hotel we were staying in arranged for us to go aboard and it changed our lives. We saw the ship's routes and realised there was a way to visit places like Pitcairn Island and Tristan da Cunha. It was many years later that we could afford to do trips like that and by that time the World Discoverer had struck a reef in the Solomons. Years later still I snorkelled around the wreck and touched the old ship, a rather moving experience.

 

Anyway, for many reasons the Banda Islands have a special place in our hearts. A truly extraordinary place to visit and it should be a World Heritage Site. We went back fairly recently and here are some photos I took. I hope you like it as much as I do.

 

 

Scans from my 35mm slides from the earlier trip are here, including shots of the World Discoverer which some readers of this Forum may remember -

 

Edited by Fletcher
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for your replies, Julie and Fletcher, and for the photos.

Yes, I was struck by how unusual the itinerary was, and was determined to take the opportunity. I had to slash Mrs June's housekeeping allowance by 55% for eight months in order to budget adequately!

We were interested to find out if these were maiden ports of call for Seabourn. A bit of 'research' on the web revealed that the Legend had called at Palopo (Sulawesi) as part of a world tour about 8 years ago. Does anyone out there know about Banda and the rest?

There are many reasons for wanting to do this segment, apart from the Wallace connection: Lawrence Blair, who does talks on Seabourn from time to time, filmed his journey round these islands in the marvellous Ring of Fire tv documentary from the 1970s; a chance to visit some still remote, rarely mentioned places; an opportunity to finally visit Australia (we are calling into Darwin for an overnight).

There are also volcanoes and pirate infested waters...

And a chance to see Bali.

It was a devil of journey getting here, over the Easter rush. Packed airports, families with uncontrolled children, packed hotels, more uncontrolled children, packed flights, now holed up for a few days in a lovely little place called the Purist Villas. Bali, for all her natural beauty and deep Hindu spiritualism, is also packed, almost a theme-park. But we have not had the time, nor inclination, to explore far and wide. Spent time watching herons roost, visited the rice-paddy terraces, inadvertently stumbled upon a cock fight and spent a memorable morning watching birds building nests,surrounded by multicoloured butterflies flitting through the sunshine.

Boarding tomorrow.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Boarding was as smooth and easy as expected (aside from various pieces of Australian immigration paperwork to be filled in) in a hot and humid harbour. Usual semi-chaotic first day on board with unpacking, lifeboat drill, delayed sail away (waiting for some delayed guests who finally made it on board c.17.00 pm).

Wil post more later but just wanted to announce that the new turndown chocs are here!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Day at sea. Hot and humid, sailing past some of the smaller of the 6000 Indonesian islands, dotted along the near horizon. Sea almost as smooth as a baby's bottom. Did I say it was hot and humid?

Crew great so far, Capt:Tim Roberts, Sophie, CD. Sophie is actually from Salford, which is just down the road from us. We have never sailed with her before, but when introduced I told her she was world famous, on Cruise Critic at least and that everyone consistently rated her highly. she said, she never read any reviews, but was obviously quite chuffed.

The ship is in reasonable condition, though our V2 is looking a little worse for wear: chipped and scuffed woodwork, crack in the toilet lid, cracks and chips in bathroom sinks. Shower is a bit smelly too. Usual problem with noisy air con, which we will ask maintenance to fix. Worst though, is that there is a missing, or broken,fixture for one of the veranda screens, so that it is constantly rattling in the breeze. Not only is this shabby, it is hardly conducive to a tranquil time when sitting on ones balcony. It is also dangerous, as the other fixtures will be under greater stress and should another one go, the whole thing could collapse and fall on us or our neighbour, which would not only be undesirable, but also likely rather messy. MDR service, food, and food temperature all exemplary last night.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is proving to be a memorable cruise on all counts. All niggles about the room have been fixed. Happy, well-drilled and integrated crew working efficiently. No issues about wine service; we have been offered a choice of two reds every night and there has never been a problem about being topped up in good time. Quality of poured wines pretty good too so far.

Great mix of passengers, mostly seasoned Seabournites, but all on board seem well travelled and intrepid. An itinerary like this calls for an adventurous spirit. All age groups are represented and most are very sociable and good company.

 

We sailed into Palopo around 6.00 this morning to anchor at 7.30. Stepping out onto our veranda at 7.00 the senses are assailed. First off, the heat and humidity (80%) immediately envelopes one in its cloying embrace. Next, the scents of the unsanitised tropics drifting on the warm wet air, decomposing vegetation, cooking, coffee. To one side of the harbour a cluster of colourful buildings dominated by the white coral dome of the mosque, gleaming in the sun. All this set off against a backdrop of jagged peaks, luxuriously green with jungle plants. In the distance the peaks fade to grey shapes, streaked with white smudges of low-lying mist. there are a few small boats, collecting seaweed in the harbour, a cargo ship I the distance. It's a backwater. We are told there are few taxis, most transportation needs met by cycle rickshaws, some with electric motors.

We are going ashore later today for a ships tour of the town. Earlier the local immigration and tour info people came aboard, all beaming smiles and excitement. cruise ships are still a rarity here.

At the last minute Seabourn arranged an extra excursion, to the Torajah highlands, which is the main tourist draw, but it's eight hours, two hours in a coach there and two hours back. It's something I was hoping to organise privately before we left, but had been too ill with flu. Now, it's too short notice.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've been to Palopo - the entire ship of 100 passengers were escorted into town on rickshaws like a visiting head of state and entourage. Then a sort of feast at the local palace.

 

FlaminJune - you might be better off without a Torajaland trip. Seriously backbreaking and exhausting and ours was an overnighter in a fly-blown hotel. Very ticky-tacky touristy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you for taking us along with you on your journey Flamin_June. I googled Palopo and I could well imagine the humidity and scent from the verdant vegetation. If you get a chance to hear Sophie sing she is excellent.

 

Fletcher, I have only snorkelled once over some Japanese wrecks in Solomon Islands and remember feeling very moved at the sight of the ships and their story. I would imagine it would be quite melancholy to snorkel over a ship that had such a profound impact on you.

 

Julie

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sea day today, first of two as we head south, then east, past the tail end of the Indonesean archipelago and then south again to Darwin.

Thanks for the kind words, Julie; and thanks to Fletcher for the reassurance about Torajaland, I thought it might be as you described when I saw the words 'living museum' in the description. We met some people coming off the 8 hour trip in the tender on the way back form our city tour. They liked it well-enough, though there was a hair-raising drive on narrow switchbacks there and back (which I would have probably enjoyed) and a downpour for them in the highlands.

We took the city tour (an extra one laid on at short notice) in the afternoon,which was a truly memorable, overwhelming, humbling, and eye-opening experience. A small convoy of 6-7 cycle rickshaws, one person per rickshaw, set off. Like Fletcher we had a two motorcycle traffic police escort, complete with sirens at busy crossings, and a military motorcyclist as well, I guess just in case, but there was absolutely no sense of danger, aggression or jeopardy, to warrant his presence. Perhaps he just came along for the ride. As did most of the town. People were stopping to stare, smile, shout "hello mister", wave, groups of girls and women giggling delightedly if you waved back along our entire route. Scores, no hundreds, possibly half the population, on motorbikes, drove past - wives, grandparents, children sometimes all crammed onto one motorbike or scooter- to have a look, smile, wave. Everywhere we went everyone wanted to take a selfie with us. Nobody was trying to sell us anything, just a general delight that tourists had come to visit them. Well,there was one exception. As Mrs June sat near a fountain at the local palace a lady in full Muslim garb sat next to her, and, speaking in Indonesean, produced from her long black sleeve an exquisitely carved, one to two inches long, polished stone phallus,for which she wanted, we guessed, five hundred thousand rupiah (about 25 pounds sterling). To much raucous laughter, Mrs June explained, with a bit of miming and pointing, that her husband was already equipped with one, and, that his was much bigger.

The welcome was truly heartfelt, the experience in the market, the fishing village, the local nabob's palace, was 100% authentic. Children everywhere, smiling, staring, giggling. In truth there is nothing special to see in Palopo, but tourists are so rare, and so appreciated. There is poverty, and the fishing village was humbling in many ways, but everyone who went on the tour was overwhelmed and touched and I am sure uplifted by the whole thing.

Very chilled atmosphere on board today as everyone recovers from the excursions. A very pleasant atmosphere of restrained cammeraderie among the passengers.

Beautiful puffy-fluffy scattered low lying clouds today, tumbling down to an azure blue sea along the the horizon. Cooler and fresher, though still very warm as we head away from equatorial waters.

Edited by Flamin_June
Link to comment
Share on other sites

FlaminJune - This is a truly wonderful itinerary - the original Spice Islands. We first went to Banda in 1990 as a land-based trip and it was there that we ran into an expedition ship called World Discoverer. The owner of the little hotel we were staying in arranged for us to go aboard and it changed our lives. We saw the ship's routes and realised there was a way to visit places like Pitcairn Island and Tristan da Cunha. It was many years later that we could afford to do trips like that and by that time the World Discoverer had struck a reef in the Solomons. Years later still I snorkelled around the wreck and touched the old ship, a rather moving experience.

 

Anyway, for many reasons the Banda Islands have a special place in our hearts. A truly extraordinary place to visit and it should be a World Heritage Site. We went back fairly recently and here are some photos I took. I hope you like it as much as I do.

 

 

Scans from my 35mm slides from the earlier trip are here, including shots of the World Discoverer which some readers of this Forum may remember -

 

 

 

Amazing pictures!!! Thanks for sharing!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Two glorious days at sea and two days in Darwin. Now sailing to Banda. The sea is literally like a mill-pond. Never seen it like this before. Barely a ripple, let alone a wave,; with bright morning sunlight glistening across the surface, it looks like we are floating on quicksilver.

Darwin was a very pleasant port of call. A small, modern city, clean and spruce, with wide roads, little traffic and plenty of souvenir shops. We did the museum (excellent) and a little shopping. It was hot, somewhere near 40 C. The setup at the cruise terminal was good too, with some excellent stalls. Aussie immigration and security was sstrict and efficient without ever being in your face. One passenger with a lot more money than sense, who was leaving to fly back to the states decided to pack several packets of cigarettes, when not more than 12 individual ciggies are allowed. They were inevitably discovered, suitcases all emptied and searched, suite searched etc.

The new chocs have disappeared for now with the old Seabourn ones back in circulation. The new chocs were vastly superior, high cocoa content, we had Milk, Milk with Blood Orange, and Milk with Cherry. all v. nice.

The decking round the pool is in big trouble, warping and buckling in the heat and humidity in several places. Seems to me that they replaced some floorboards with unseasoned wood. some areas have been roped off for safety. They placed large plant pots with lots of foliage to try and disguise the ugly looking hazard tape etc. They look quite attractive and are a lovely addition to the pool deck. Colonnade TK meal - clam bake -was great,

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The TK offerings in the MDR have all been disappointing. The concepts and presentation are interesting and arresting, but the final execution has been wanting. I've tried several items and didn't like any of them. Regular MDR offerings have all been of a good standard, and the menu varied and imaginative. best of all service has been spot on, attentive, no issues with the wines, all food served hot and in good time.

TK Grill last night for first time. Not sure. The interior design is appealing and in concept, this should be a fun, though up-market experience. Fellow diners all rather po-faced and reverential. Some wait staff a bit smarmy, and pushing the revenue wines. Execution not great. We had the Dover Sole. Obviously frozen, not fresh, which rather defeats the purpose. Everything, sides, fish, fries was soggy. Music not loud enough.

Otherwise all food and service has been well up to the Seabourn standard one expects, and many names going into our notebook for honourable mentions. Vanessa, our stewardess, best we have had in 9 cruises.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just announced. Sojourn will not be calling at Borocay. This because of The Phillippine's Presidents decision to close the island to tourism from April 26th for six months because of the high levels of pollution. They are working on alternative plans, which will be announced in due course.

This is proving to be the most laid-back sea day ever. If passengers were more laid-back we would all be asleep on the deck. Arufura and Banda Seas are still as placid as a lake, with an occasional scattering ripple as we pass through shoals of flying fish. Ship speed reduced as the sea temperature is around 32 C, too warm to cool engines effectively.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

QUOTE

"The decking round the pool is in big trouble, warping and buckling in the heat and humidity in several places. Seems to me that they replaced some floorboards with unseasoned wood. some areas have been roped off for safety. They placed large plant pots with lots of foliage to try and disguise the ugly looking hazard tape etc. They look quite attractive and are a lovely addition to the pool deck"

 

 

"Unseasoned wood"

I thought the the decking on the "O" ships was plastic. (Ducks for cover:)

On the little ships it was teak

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wood, plastic, whatever, it's buckled in several places.

We sailed through the most remarkably placid Banda Sea at a stately pace while hundreds of flying fish scattered in our path, skimming and splashing silver across the sapphire surface.

The sail into harbour at Banda was worth getting up at 6.30am to witness, slipping slowly past the smaller islands and past the looming volcanic cone of Banda Api, verdantly green in the morning sunlight, draped in palm trees and jungle shrubs cut through by one black scar of recent lava flow, it's summit snagging the low lying morning clouds. Across the lagoon-like bay the town of Bandaneira itself a patchwork of colours, bright blues, yellows, reds, crumbling whitewashed walls and grey ruins overgrown with vegetation. We anchored and tendered to the small jetty next to the Malavu Hotel, a Dutch colonial building, with long, cool, shadowy verandas facing the jetty, welcome refuge from the hot sun. The local ferry was docked the far side of the hotel. Banda town itself is a charming backwater with partially ruined and restored colonial buildings, chickens running around the street, plenty of small cafes, stalls, and shops, selling pearls- crude, cultured, blue, white - cinnamon, nutmeg, shell bracelets and the like. And far too many motorbikes, buzzing and beeping along the narrow streets. We took a cycle rickshaw around the town, while other passengers and a few crew organised local boats to take them to snorkelling sites. Later we had some tasty and spicy snacks - fish falafels, a local speciality - with Bintang beer in the hotel, overlooking the lagoon.

I took a few photos, well snapshots really, and when I learn how to upload and download them, get them on and off the cloud and so on, I will do my best to post them here.

Mrs June bought a very nice pearl bracelet for about 20 bucks.

The heat and humidity were strength sapping.

Edited by Flamin_June
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Before trying to wax lyrical again about Ambon and Ternate, a few prosaic updates.

An extra day, and thus an overnight, has been arranged at Manila, enabling us to skip Borocay. As a result we will be calling at Hundred Islands the following day, which was originally scheduled as a sea day before our final day at sea before Hong Kong.

A Seabourn moment the other day. I mentioned how much I liked and missed the TK turndown chocolates on the mid-cruise feedback form. A couple of days later a small gift bag containing 16 TK chocs appeared on our bed in the evening. These were the last they had on board of a small trial batch.

 

In the Doldrums at the moment. Heavy rain. Low lying clouds, bit of a swell. Actually a welcome change from the torpid, languid, heat and humidity of the last 12 days. Astonished to see the patio grill open for lunch, one solitary couple occupying a corner table in the lashing rain, small tidal waves in the pool, the new pool deck palms flapping for dear life in the wind.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

QUOTE

"The decking round the pool is in big trouble, warping and buckling in the heat and humidity in several places. Seems to me that they replaced some floorboards with unseasoned wood. some areas have been roped off for safety. They placed large plant pots with lots of foliage to try and disguise the ugly looking hazard tape etc. They look quite attractive and are a lovely addition to the pool deck"

 

 

"Unseasoned wood"

I thought the the decking on the "O" ships was plastic. (Ducks for cover:)

On the little ships it was teak

 

There is no plastic decking on the Odyssey class ships. Have you not sailed on one of them?

 

But if you look at your veranda on Encore (and presumably Ovation) you will see plastic.

 

Happy and healthy sailing!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A Seabourn moment the other day. I mentioned how much I liked and missed the TK turndown chocolates on the mid-cruise feedback form. A couple of days later a small gift bag containing 16 TK chocs appeared on our bed in the evening. These were the last they had on board of a small trial batch.

 

Two questions:

 

1. I didn’t think the chocolates were actually TK-branded but instead by K+M Chocolate. TK was supposed to just be a consulting partner. I haven’t seen them though so it wouldn’t surprise me if he insisted on top billing.

 

2. These were supposed to be rolled out on all ships by the end of Q1. Im surprised to hear they were still in trial period... any idea why?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The chocolates were introduced on the Sojourn in March about a week prior to the end of our cruise Cape Town to Singapore. As a self confessed chocoholic I found them to be “meh.” See the attached photo of the back of one of them with the cobranding information.ec8e59358dc944830578fa80801a09a5.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Forums

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Flamin_June — I remember Hundred Islands from last year (March). It was the worst stop on the whole trip. The only thing to do is take a boat trip around some rocky islands. We and many others tried to book one of the boats privately, but they only bring over enough boats to cover Seabourn's order. It's kinda like the Phuket taxi mafia. We also went swimmimg while waiting, but suffered from sea lice afterwards, so be careful to rinse out everything asap if you do go in the water.

My advice is to take the tender over, poke around and tender back. You get to see a few of the islands anyway. Or just take the Seabourn excursion if you want to see more rocky islands.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

.Thank you for the advice, Duhcar. SB are offering a couple of hours boat trips around the islands, or a half hour longer boat trip to go snorkelling. We like snorkelling, but are not big fans of sea-lice. Problem is the snorkelling sets off at 8.20 and we are not early risers by nature or inclination, preferring to sit out under the tropical stars into the night. So we will take your advice. Cancelled our snorkelling in Coron as well, as that was moved from a very comfortable 12 noon start to 08.30 because of itinerary changes.

As for the chocolate controversy, I'm afraid this is just lazy imprecise reporting on my part: they are K+M chocs, I just call them TK chocs as it is marginally easier to type.

Chairsin, sorry to learn you found them meh. They are a touch underwhelming in the context of my ( and possibly your) chocoholic anticipation/expectation, and the cherry and blood orange may not be to everyone's taste. I liked them and the milk, and dark with sea salt. To my taste they are an improvement on the old SB offerings, which were too sweet and emulsified. These have a higher cocoa content, and possibly less sugar (no ingredients, nor cocoa/sugar content data are given on the wrappings).

Sea day today, in Phillippine waters, the thick cloud, rain and choppy seas of the Doldrums are giving way to bluer skies, brighter sunshine and less swell.

Miserable failure at Bago today, managing only 4 points in three rounds. Bah!

As McArthur said, I will return, with thoughts on Ambon and Ternate. I know McArthur didn't in fact return, but we are on vacation:cool:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In Coron, get 6 or 8 people and pick someone on the docks that has a boat. (Good practice for your people and negotiation skills). Then go to the market right there and with your help he'll pick up the makings for a fabulous lunch (and snacks and drinks) that they'll cook on the way to a nice beach. We didn't snorkel, but I am sure that with that in mind they can pick out a great spot. Can't remember the cost, but pretty good for a memorable port. Jealous.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now
 Share

  • Forum Jump
    • Categories
      • Welcome to Cruise Critic
      • New Cruisers
      • Cruise Lines “A – O”
      • Cruise Lines “P – Z”
      • River Cruising
      • ROLL CALLS
      • Digital Photography & Cruise Technology
      • Special Interest Cruising
      • Cruise Discussion Topics
      • UK Cruising
      • Australia & New Zealand Cruisers
      • Canadian Cruisers
      • North American Homeports
      • Ports of Call
      • Cruise Conversations
×
×
  • Create New...