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Silversea Explorer Nome to Seward August 13-25, 2018-live


RachelG
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August 17, 2018–Cape Kuyveveem, Chukotka Peninsula, Russia

 

After another totally smooth night of sailing, we awoke to a bright sunny day. With practically no wind and temps in the 40s, it was perfect for zodiac cruising. We went out in 2 groups. Since we were second, we had time for a leisurely breakfast, then I got some steps in on the hamster track while George worked out in the gym.

 

At 9:30, it was our turn to board the zodiacs to explore the granite and basalt cliffs that are prime nesting areas for all kinds of birds. I am not a big bird person, but I do know what puffins are and there were thousands nesting on the cliffs. There were also cormorants, harlequin ducks (in the water), a bunch of different gulls, kittiwakes. Very noisy with lots of flight going on.

 

There were several sea caves, plus a big rock arch that we were able to explore. This is only possible if the sea is fairly calm, so we were lucky.

 

After an hour and a half on the water, we headed back to the ship. The afternoon included a couple of lectures about marine mammals and Russian history as we sailed back to Provideniya to clear Russian customs on our way back to the US.

 

Just as we arrived at Provideniya, a dense fog bank started rolling it. It definitely makes me appreciate modern navigational equipment. You could barely see from one side of the bay to the other.

 

The captain’s welcome is tonight, a bit later in the cruise than usual as we have just been so busy. It is one of my favorite menus, and I have already decided what I am having—the little egg rolls, the artichoke appetizer, and venison. We are to dine with the expedition program coordinator, so i am sure George will be putting in a word for long hikes. Then we have to have face to face inspection with the Russian officials again after dinner, strange time for a customs inspection.

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August 17, 2018–again-at sea

 

So this is the day we get to repeat, having crossed back over the international date line. We just set the clocks four hours forward and went back a day. So we had a nice sleep in, much nicer than waking up at 4-5 am since our internal clocks had not adjusted.

 

We are on open ocean, not as much movement as on the way to Russia, but definitely some bouncing around. The sky hazy with intermittent fog banks and occasional sun at the same time. Temperature is in the 40s with a bit of wind.

 

Due to the time change, brunch was offered instead of breakfast and lunch, a great idea as everyone had a bit of a sleep in I think. Salad bar, eggs to order, really good bacon, roast beef, pizza, fried chicken, an assortment of fruit and cheeses as well as desserts. Plenty of options to choose from.

 

After lunch, the seas and wind had really picked up. I gave it a go at walking outside, but after one loop around realized it was just too rocky and windy to be safe, so I was reduced to working out in the gym for an hour.

 

There were a couple of lectures (very interesting one of predators in the sea and another about indigenous people). Tea and trivia at 4. Not many people present due to the movement of the seas. We did not win because it was trivia about members of the expedition staff.

 

Dinner was very sparsely attended. Not as sparse as when it was just George and me and one other couple in the dining room on a Regent voyage in Norway, but pretty sparse. We had a Greek themed dinner which was quite delicious.

 

No pics for today as we are just on the ship.

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August 18, 2018-Hall Island, St Matthew Island, and Pinnacle Island, Bering Sea, Alaska

 

There was again quite a bit of rocking during the night, not as bad as the first night, but enough to wake me up several times. We awoke at 8 am with the announcement that we were at Hall Island, a big chunk of rock topped with grass. Lots of birds reside in the nooks and crannies in the rock face. There is no place to land here, so the captain commenced a cruise along the coast of the island. It was extremely overcast and foggy, but we were close enough to the island to see clearly. Those more into rocks and birds than I stayed out on deck, but I just popped in and out from time to time since it was only about 40F outside and a little windy.

 

Brunch was served as we sailed between Hall Island and St Matthew Island. As we approached St Matthew, the rusted hull of a wrecked ship was visible on the rocks. Apparently, it was anchored there in a storm in 1989, the anchor broke free, and the ship went into the rocks.

 

We, on the other hand, anchored in a nice bay off a wide pebble beach. Zodiacs we’re deployed, with the passengers broken into groups of long, medium and short hikers. You can guess which we went with.

 

We hiked first up through very dense above knee high grass growing on a thick bog. Walking was a lot of work here. As we gained elevation, the grass thinned, and the bog became less wet though still very soft. Soon it was more like an alpine meadow. There were vole holes everywhere, and I was able to spot a couple of voles, though they are too quick to get a picture of.

 

Then across the ridge comes a beautiful red fox. He was pretty interested in us, perhaps liking our red coats. At any rate, he just trotted right up to within 20 ft of our group, stood there for quite a while studying us, then trotted off.

 

We continued to the top of the ridge then were free to hike where ever we liked provided we could keep the ship in view. Since there are no trees, that is a long way! George and I quickly got our 10K steps plus some, exploring all over and eventually making it back to the beach.

 

Back on the ship, we went up to the lounge for tea. This ship does an excellent tea time, with proper loose leaf tea, scones, little sandwiches, and cakes. We sailed by Pinnacle Island which is basically a big rock sticking up out of the ocean.

 

A wonderful day, but my legs are really sore—and I work out every day.

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August 19,2018–St Paul Island, Bering Sea, Alaska

 

We had yet another bouncy night, enough that I woke up several times. George slept like a log. When I got up, looking outside, it was totally grey and raining. Fortunately by the time we arrived at St Paul Island, the rain had stopped. It was still very cloudy and foggy, with temps in the low 40s and damp feeling.

 

St. Paul Island is much lower and flatter than St Matthew, but is inhabited by humans year round, with a small town, school, post office, health center, police station, church, and a couple of stores. It is one of the places where the tv show “Deadliest Catch” was filmed. The other attraction for us is a huge seal rookery.

 

We arrived by zodiac coming in through a well built harbor to a dock with dry landing. We were then free to walk wherever we wanted, with directions on how to get to the viewing points for the seal beach and bird cliffs. On the beach were hundreds of seals, lots of mamas with pups. Some were playing in the surf, but a lot of them were just relaxing on the beach.

 

George and I decided to go further so took a big loop around, found a path that led to some huge sand dunes, then back down toward town beside an estuary with a bunch of birds. Then we saw 2 Arctic foxes with their black summer coats on, strolling alongside the water. They were much smaller than the red fox we saw yesterday and very much more wary of humans. I was able to get one picture, but when I tried to approach any closer, they were not having that and scampered off.

 

We arrived back at the village, had a quick look at the church, then went to the cultural performance the local Aleut people had prepared for us. It was interesting, with performers of all ages from elderly to a tiny cute little girl who could not have been more than 2 or 3.

 

Back on the ship, we sailed by a sea lion rock as we left, but they were really difficult to see, just too far away.

 

Venetian Society night was tonight. George and I actually made it to the top 5 cruise nights. We are at 94, only 6 away from free laundry.

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Loving your blog on this site. We are lovers of the Explorer having done three trips, one to Antartica, one Cape to Cape and one from Panama to Valparaiso. Great to hear you are having a good time on the ship and that the food is still so good. We were a bit disappointed with the food on the Shadow on a recent trip but hopeful of our next Cape to Cape trip in 2019 which will be on the Cloud (expedition config). Looking forward to your next and future posts. Have a fantastic time.

Edited by labrasett
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Rachel,

Wonderful commentary and photos.

I am remembering all of those places and I am right there with you. Look over your shoulder!

I so hope you get to Unga Island, the memories of that place will stay with me forever.

It is eerily beautiful.

Thanks for taking me along!

 

 

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

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Labrasett, the food is not the best we have had on this ship but definitely not the worst, and it is certainly very edible. I would like a more generous portion of veggies or salad at dinner, but I am a big veggie eater. And I could ask for extra veggies as a special order if I wanted. I just don’t like to be needy.

 

Spinnaker, definitely looking forward to Unga Island.

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