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DIY Land & Radiance of the Seas 8/14 (Seward to Vancouver) Review / Journal


Studio472
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Background

A cruise to Alaska was a given. We also wanted to spend some time on land before or after cruising. The ‘cruise-tours’ looked great from the perspective of having everything planned for you (seriously, there is a LOT of value built in to this aspect!). The more I researched the ‘tour’ side of the trip, I began to realize how restricting it really is. Time in Denali was limited and you were on the schedule put in front of you. When the bus leaves, you leave. We wanted to see as much of Denali park as possible so we decided to figure it out on our own. The first major decision was to drop Fairbanks. We found a suitable house rental near Denali and booked 3 nights there. I regret not adding a night in Seward but that advice came too late for us to change our reservations.

 

We will post each day within the thread ... stay tuned!

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Our initial group of 6 flew out of PHL on AA to Chicago for a 3 hour layover. The flight to Anchorage was on Alaska Air on a brand new jet which made it nicer than a typical flight. We landed on time in Anchorage and caught the ABC Rental shuttle. We picked up our 15 passenger van and a minivan. The big van headed for Denali with a dinner stop in Wasilla at "The Last Frontier". Food was good, large portions. After lunch (or dinner depending on time zone) we went to Wal-Mart for groceries. Then had a 3 hour drive where we noticed a lot of Espresso stands and lucked out with no construction of delays. We stopped at the South Denali viewing area but only saw the base of Mt. McKinley. We saw a moose by the side of the road as well as a wolf. We stayed at the Carlo House at mile 224. The Carlo house has 3 Bedrooms with 1 Canadian King, 3 Queens & 2 Bathrooms. The house also has a fire pit, sauna, kitchen, wifi, satellite TV etc. We were all impressed with the accommodations. Most of us went right to sleep after a long day of travel.

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The minivan group of 3 waited for our last arrival and drove through the night. While waiting they stopped in Girdwood but saw little wildlife. After reaching the house they slept in after the long night. The original big van went into Denali (14 miles north) and took the courtesy shuttle to Savage River for a hike. In hindsight we could have driven our van to the hiking area but the shuttle gave us a taste for what to expect tomorrow.

 

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After a 2 mile hike we grabbed a green bus heading out of the park for a ride back.

 

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Then we swung by the house for a quick bite, grabbed the other 3 and headed back to the park.

 

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The Denali Park rangers offer a dog sled presentation 3x a day so we went to visit the kennels, meet the dogs and see a short demonstration. The dogs ranged in personality and most loved the attention. Highly recommend checking this out.

 

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Afterwards we stopped for dinner at the Creekside Cafe for dinner. Following dinner we had reservations at Denali Raft Adventures. There were 2 groups but our group of 9 got our own raft. The tour we took was the 11-mile Scenic Run down the Kenana River.

 

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Our guide and oarsman Will did a great job and brought us into heavier rapids if we wanted and had options if we wanted to take it easy. The tour was a blast.

 

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We did run into construction delays near the park area. These averaged 10 minutes each. After another long day we got to bed so we could get up early for the Denali park shuttle tomorrow.

Edited by Studio472
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We had purchased our shuttle tickets months ago and even then were unable to take the first shuttle out in the morning. We booked tickets for the Wonder Lake shuttle which is an approximately 11-hour round trip on a school bus. Along the way we saw Caribou, Bear mother with Cubs, Bald Eagles, Moose Cows/Buck/Baby, Dall Sheep, Herrier or Raptor and Arctic Ground Squirrels. The view of Denali was obstructed by clouds so Wonder Lake itself was kind of underwhelming.

 

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When we finally got back we went for dinner at Panorama Pizza and the food was awesome. We then hit the sauna, made s'mores and prepped for the drive to Anchorage tomorrow.

Edited by Studio472
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The folks who got in late on travel day woke up early and went into Denali to see more wildlife. They were able to see more of Mt. McKinley than we previously did but not the summit. We headed into town for an hour of shopping, checked out of the house and started the drive to Anchorage. We stopped for photos at Hurricane Gulch (Mile 173?) and continued to Talkeetna for lunch at the Denali Brewing Company.

 

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Again the food was excellent. We had planned to stop at Independence Mine State Park but we didn't realize it closes at 6 so we missed that. We wanted to stop at one of the coffee huts and found "Perky's Espresso" in Wasilla. Everyone loved it! As we wrapped up the last leg of the drive to Anchorage, the 5 family members joining us for the cruise tried to get a reservation for 15 at Moose Tooth Pizza but the wait was too long. Instead they got pizza and some of us went to "Ginger" in town. We probably could have skipped dinner altogether but we got plates of apps and split them. Very good!

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We stayed at the Anchorage Grand Hotel and were able to walk down the hill to the Alaska Railroad Train Depot.

 

We had a 15 person group reservation and they allowed me to check in for everyone. We all had Gold Star tickets and I highly recommend this. We took the Coastal Classic in glass domed cars. Included in the price was diner style breakfast, 2 adult beverages and a separate semi-private boarding are on the side of the building. We were able to board without contending with the crowds. The accommodations on the train were excellent and the views speak for themselves. There is also a viewing balcony which never got too cold. Can't say enough about the overall experience on the Alaska railroad. All in our group were blown away.

 

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Upon arrival in Seward we boarded a shuttle bus for "Kenai Fjords Tours". A quick check-in process and we boarded the Aialik Express for the 6-hour "Kenai Fjords National Park Tour". Weather was exceptional and the seas were smooth (as the Pacific goes). This tour was yet another home run! We saw Puffins, Sea Lions, Humpbacks, Orcas. On the way to the glacier we kept running into groups of humpback whales in all directions. Two of them even breached!

 

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After we had our fill of playing whales we continued on to Holgate Glacier. The smaller tour boat was able to get very close to the glacier where we saw calving. The boat stayed at the glacier for 20-25 minutes before beginning the trip back.

 

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En route back we encountered a pod of Orcas. They hang around the surface more than the humpbacks. We counted 6-8 in the area. They surrounded us and even came closer to us! We could only stay so long to avoid being late. The tour includes lunch and a warm baked cookies. Two home run tours in the same day! Also note that previous comments about the Resurrection Bay tour state you don't see nearly as much as the full Fjords tour. Most of the wildlife including humpbacks and orcas were in or near Resurrection Bay.

 

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Our tour guide was very excited so we got the impression our tour was something special. Regardless of what you pick you'll love it! The Kenai Fjords tour shuttle promptly got us to the cruise terminal by 6:00pm. During the planning phase I posted questions about timing back to the ship on time. The folks at the cruise terminal said we had until 7:00 not 6:30 like the documentation states. Little bit of worry but we obviously made it without issue.

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The terminal was desolate and our group checked in and boarded in minutes. Had time to unpack before muster drill. Went to My Time Dining for dinner just after. Some of us rushed through dessert and caught the beginning of the "Welcome Aboard Show." The comedian (Pat Godwin) was funny and we're looking forward to the adult comedy show later this week. Some did Karaoke, others explored the ship while I went to bed after another bang bang day. This is my 2nd Platinum Level cruise and we got robes in our stateroom! Megan9933 was excited about that.

 

Next up ... the Cruise! Stay tuned

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After a dining room breakfast several of us went to the Cruise Critic Meet & Greet. We met a few people and got to put faces to the screen names. Was hoping to meet mapleleaf but didn't see them there. Wife & I went to the Cha Cha class which had a really good turnout. Lunch in the Windjammer was so-so and crowded with lost/confused/indifferent people wandering. Not my favorite venue on any ship. Disenchantment Bay was clear and smooth and we arrived early at the glacier. Captain Göran got us closer than expected and we watched for calving while the ship did donuts for about an hour. They had hot chocolate on the helipad which cost money (surprisingly).

 

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As we departed the glacier we got some family & friends pics with the glacier/mountains in the background. After dinner we saw "The Las Vegas Tenors" late show. This was one of the best vocal acts period, let alone on a cruise ship. Very impressive show. They had the crowd dancing in the isles. I also want to say how great the house band did. This act is not a RCL routine and last week was the first time they worked with these guys. You would never know it wasn't a meticulously rehearsed show. Speaking as an experienced Sound Engineer, the RCL sound guy was perfect in every way.

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Shops - Went into town and found many great shops. The further down Franklin St you go, the more authentic / craft like the stores get. There were some very good t-shirt stores near the ship. I found our ULU knife made with Moose antler (we saw moose so it's fitting). They worked with us on price and were very reasonable, enough so we thought we should buy now instead of Ketchikan. I also had some great conversations with shopkeepers who were genuinely interested in helping me find items they didn't sell. No pressure, just nice people. Jewelry stores were the normal routine. Had a beer at the Red Dog Saloon and listened to a few songs by the acoustic guitar act.

 

Coastal Helicopters Ice Field Excursion - This had been booked privately (non RCCL) months in advance. We were picked up near the tramway and brought to the airport. They assured us we would land on the glacier despite the Sled Dog group before us who were unable to land. Later I ran into those folks back on Radiance and they were given a full refund even though they got a helicopter ride. That's pretty amazing customer service. We had 7 in our group and were combined with another party in two Helicopters. The flight to and from were fine. Our pilot Sean was informative and experienced. Landing on Herbert Glacier was special. The pictures don't give it justice and the beauty is awe striking.

 

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We took pictures and spent 20 minutes before heading back. I was able to fill my bottle with fresh glacier water which was pretty amazing (yes...water). The grippy booties they put over our boots provided excellent traction. The lighter people had to work harder but I was loving it. This was a once in a lifetime experience I hope you can find a way to make work.

 

Tour Vendors - While we were trying to figure out where The helicopter tour would pick us up, we spoke with the folks selling different tours. I was very impressed with how much information they provided and gave us advice (like fill your water bottle with glacier water). They could have tried to sell us tours but they were simply helpful. Afterwards one came up to me and asked how it went. Again, genuinely good people. When I'm in Juneau again I hope to book with one of them. It was nothing like what you experience in the Caribbean.

 

Dinner & Show - Saxcruiser & I broke off from the group for dinner at Izumi. The prices were markedly more expensive than I recall on Oasis a few years back but the quality was as expected. We both enjoyed a delicious meal. They offered us a 20% discount if we return on this cruise. As much as I love sushi, two times a week is a bit much. The show tonight is Piano Man featuring the house band, singers and dancers. Overall the quality was good and the show was entertaining. megan9933 was particularly impressed with a certain move the ballet dancer did during "Tiny Dancer". The show did take some odd turns going into some Wizard of Oz stuff.

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White Pass Railroad & Yukon Bike Ride - Many in our group did The White Pass Railroad with some sort of combination to follow. The train was nice but a little disappointing because of how foggy it was. I took pictures but didn't feel they were as great as the AKRR Coastal Classic.

 

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I bought the DVD so I can see what it looks like on a nice day. The crew was very nice and I liked that I could go out onto the balcony of the rail car for pictures. After the train I did the 15 mile bike ride down the mountain road with Sockeye Cycling. After hearing my friends review of the Bike'N'Brew (Juneau) I was hoping this would be more challenging. Since you're going downhill 95% of the time there isn't much need for physical strength.

 

This ride was actually only 10 miles which I suspect was shortened due to wet roads. One of the groups ahead of us had someone take a spill. She was picked up in a van (not med-evac) so I think she wasn't too banged up. If you aren't comfortable on a bike, it can be difficult to keep your hands balanced while keeping two fingers on the brakes. Most of the ride you have to keep the brakes on at least lightly which can be fatiguing after some time. I suspect the lady who fell hit her brake too hard and lost control. These were some serious hills. The tour had plenty of scenic stops and a very friendly guide Monica. The bikes are newer Trek or Specialized 26" Mountain Bikes, most with disc brakes.

 

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The entire ride is on-road and we were passed by the occasional car or tour bus. It was also neat to ride a bike over the U.S. / Canadian border as well as customs which are two different places due to the border being in an avalanche area.

 

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I recommend this tour if you are comfortable on a bike, otherwise steer clear.

 

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megan9933 had plans to go hiking in bear country. That was thwarted by "Private Property" signs. My in-laws had booked a private bear watching van ride. They did see salmon but no bears, bummer. The rest of us walked into town about a mile from dock. Along the way we saw many humpback whales & spouts. On the way back we looked for bald eagles and saw 10+ either perched or flying. Hookah itself had little to offer in terms of shops but it is an active fishing port.

 

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The Hookah Brewing Company has been open 3 days and we tasted there. Only had 3 options to try but they said they were only starting to ramp up. The shops by the tender dock were decent. More crafty than touristy.

 

The Windjammer had a taco bar for lunch which was surprisingly good. There was always a line. I had a burrito bowl and even the guac was OK. Tonight is our 2nd formal night. The galley staff was introduced and received a much deserved round of applause. We have a group of 15 and weren't sure how My Time Dining would go. On our 2nd night we had Regan & Jude for our waiter team. We have been lucky to keep the group together and get to be at Regan/Jude's tables. Some of us caught the acrobat, not my cup of tea so I'm relaxing in the cabin.

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Wasn't sure what to expect here. Heard that Ketchikan was the St. Martaan of Alaska and to expect the best prices at this port. The St. Martaan part is true except there are some pretty cool places to walk in town here. The prices were rarely better and often more than Juneau or Skagway. For example, a workout or "tech" shirt in Juneau was $11.99. Exact same shirt here was $14.99. Live and learn. Went to "Ketchi Candies" and got a few assortments for the office and a single chocolate covered Oreo for myself. I liked the "Christmas in Alaska" store. So many jewelry stores.

 

Kayaking - megan9933 took a group of 10 on a privately booked excursion with Southeast kayaks(kayakketchikan.com) that was much cheaper than offerings with the cruise line . The pictures were really good and we had a blast. It was all double kayaks with rudders making them fairly easy to control. We crossed the channel to an island and paddled along the shore at our own pace. I have kayaked many time before but even the beginners in our group enjoyed the trip. They provided skirts to keep the water out of the boats and offered paddling jackets and dry bags at no charge to anyone that wanted them. It was too warm for the jackets but a few people took a dry bag instead of leaving their wallet in their backpack on the boat office. We chose the 2.5 hour tour and it was the perfect length, I think the 4 hour offering would have been too long for most of our group.

 

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Great Alaskan Lumberjack Show - Most of the group (excluding myself) saw this show and were impressed by it. There were debates as to how much of it was actually a competition, because it appeared the score was always very close. The consensus was that the final match was authentic but the rest may have been tempered to keep the score close. The ladies especially loved the show for obvious reasons. Saxcruiser said he enjoyed the show but only needed to see it once.

 

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The scenic views of cruising the inside passage were a great way to end the cruise. We hung out on the balconies and aft section of Windjammer seating and just watched. We saw Dolphin’s sometimes 10+ in the air at once! At this point we had seen so many whales that seeing a spout in the distance wasn’t worth running to one side of the ship. But we were able to see humpbacks and orcas well with binoculars. We relaxed, took in the scenery and saw some amazing things. My only regret was that the group set our dinner reservation at 7:45 and I missed out on sunset pictures. Next time!

 

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Our group of 15 disembarked at 9:15am. Thankfully customs was a breeze and the large crowd of passengers flowed through without getting backed up. The process was much more efficient than the same in the U.S. (specifically Florida). I had booked a minibus with trailer for transport to the 2 hotels our group was staying in. We used “Vancouver Shuttle & Minibus Service” at http://www.vancouvershuttle.net. I received a quote & booked via email. There was a little confusion finding where to go but the attendant at the “Shuttle” section was most helpful. I highly recommend this service, the price included tax & gratuity and was very reasonable.

 

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Eleven of us stayed at the Accent Inn which was inexpensive and a very nice hotel. The staff was friendly and the rooms felt brand new. The hotel has a shuttle that will drop you off at the airport or the Sky Train station. The staff saved us all a few dollars by advising us to buy our train tickets at the station outside the airport (the shuttle took us there). The train tickets cost $9.75 CAD and gave us unlimited on/off access. All turn-styles were set to the open position so we’re unclear if we needed to buy tickets or not. We didn’t realize this until after we purchased tickets, but the cost was still very reasonable. Once on the train, it only takes 30 minutes to get from the Airport to Canada Place (or vice versa). If I were to cruise in/out of Vancouver again I would use this train to/from the airport. It was cost effective & very efficient.

 

Once back in town the group did various things, some did the Hop-On-Hop-Off Bus, others took a taxi to Stanley Park and everyone had a good time. dancer9933 had her Whale Watching trip cancelled due to high winds, so she wasn’t happy about that. She rejoined the group for Stanley Park.

 

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I went back to the hotel early to relax. For dinner I found “Kiyo Sushi” near the Hotel in Richmond. The prices were significantly lower than stateside and the quality was exceptional. Glad I stumbled on this gem.

 

The only complaint I have with the Accent Inn involves the complimentary shuttle. Several of the groups had to wait over 40 minutes when the shuttle was on a 30 minute loop. One group took a taxi instead of continuing to wait and the hotel staff payed for the taxi. At 4:00AM the next morning, when we needed the shuttle to be on time, it was and we got the airport on time. This driver earned their tip. It was nice to see the staff do their best to rectify the situation but those who had to take the taxi were frustrated.

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Travel day was as expected but there were no major hitches. Canada Air was a nice airline but not as impressive as Alaska Air. One of my bags didn’t arrive in Philadelphia but there were 9 other people with the same issue so it was obvious the plane ran out of room. The bag was delivered to our house the next day, no problem.

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About a week after the trip, I’m still tired and don’t feel like I ever got to wind-down on this trip. This was far from a ’normal’ vacation for us. By no means is that meant as a complaint. Prior to the cruise we opted to do a 4-day ‘Do-It-Yourself’ land tour which we managed to cram more activity in than most would attempt. Even though it was go-Go-GO on land, this part of the trip gave us the most memories. Those four days felt like an adventure where the cruise felt like organized tourism. Juneau & Skagway were my favorite ports and would love to see them again. I now understand why people fall in love with Alaska. I could see myself living there. Not sure when we’ll be able to get back, but I can’t wait to.

 

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We would like to thank ALL of you for your insight, advice, suggestions, knowledge, experience and more of all willingness to share it with us. Without help from this forum the planning process would have been excruciating. I know for a fact I wouldn’t have had the same wonderful experience without everything you contributed to us.

 

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I loved your review! You did the complete opposite of us. You boarded when we disembarked and then we did the DIY while you cruised. We also flew from PA but we flew out of Newark instead. I am very jealous of the wolf, mother bear and cubs and all the moose you saw. We stayed at the McKinley Creekside where you had the meal that one night and we also used Coastal Helicopters. I completely understand how you feel. I am finely feeling rested after being back a week. It was an exhausting trip. We were on the go constantly. I have started posting my review tonight ánd have way too many pictures to choose from.

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I loved your review! You did the complete opposite of us. You boarded when we disembarked and then we did the DIY while you cruised. We also flew from PA but we flew out of Newark instead. I am very jealous of the wolf, mother bear and cubs and all the moose you saw. We stayed at the McKinley Creekside where you had the meal that one night and we also used Coastal Helicopters. I completely understand how you feel. I am finely feeling rested after being back a week. It was an exhausting trip. We were on the go constantly. I have started posting my review tonight ánd have way too many pictures to choose from.
Picking only 6 photos per location is very difficult. I didn't even incorporate the video (yet!)

 

If you were on Radiance 7-14 then we just missed each other. We were on the Coastal Classic heading towards Seward while you were disembarking. Did you do a Kenai Fjords tour? If not, go back and do it :) After reading your review it sounds like you had a wonderful trip.

 

My biggest regret on this trip is not being prepared with a really good telephoto lens. I had my wide-angle & a 30-110 zoom, but it just didn't have the distance. There were two others in our group with pro-level lenses so I'm hoping the picture sharing actually happens! I'm not going to make the same mistake for the next trip.

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Picking only 6 photos per location is very difficult. I didn't even incorporate the video (yet!)

 

If you were on Radiance 7-14 then we just missed each other. We were on the Coastal Classic heading towards Seward while you were disembarking. Did you do a Kenai Fjords tour? If not, go back and do it :) After reading your review it sounds like you had a wonderful trip.

 

My biggest regret on this trip is not being prepared with a really good telephoto lens. I had my wide-angle & a 30-110 zoom, but it just didn't have the distance. There were two others in our group with pro-level lenses so I'm hoping the picture sharing actually happens! I'm not going to make the same mistake for the next trip.

 

I did do Kenai Fjords and forgot to mention it when I originally posted and the stupid edit button went away. I brought my long lense for my Nikon D5100 and it worked really well for all my animal shots.

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