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MS EUROPA Nice-Bilbao 5/29-6/12/18, daily narrative and pictures


Catlover54
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This part of the building looked more like what you expect in Barcelona:

 

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Another room had a display of works of Alberto Lopez:

 

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There was something vaguely disturbing about the combination of cruisers and sculpture in the same photo:

 

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I think I can figure out how the artists got their models:

 

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Outside the building, with a fellow cruiser critically studying the statue of the former music director:

 

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Second stop was the Sant Pau World Heritage site, until recently a working hospital:

 

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This was the building where operating rooms were

( not a bad place to do an appendectomy or two!):

 

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We also got a tour of the high-ceilinged corridors used to transport patients between buildings.

 

Form definitely did not follow intended function here, much less consider public expense, but it is an interesting architectural excursion in Barcelona to see this site if you have already seen the other key areas enough.

 

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And across the street, some modern Catalan residents had a political message they needed to share. These were pretty common across the city. Some want an independent Catalonia.

 

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It was time to eat again!

 

Afternoon tea is a very civilized affair in the Belvedere observation lounge, with cakes and little sandwich options served to you at your table by waiters after you select your choice(s) at a pleasant and delicious-looking staffed pastry display area ( hand hygiene to avoid infection spread is taken very seriously on Europa). I opted for this apple cake with my usual extra whipped cream, though almost got the lower cal fresh raspberries:

 

 

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Pastries and desserts overall were generally better in the MDR than at tea time in the sedate Belvedere, not sure why, maybe a different dessert chef. Pastries could have used a bit more French style butter and fluff. I noted fresh croissants were better on SB in France on the Quest, and Oceania in Alaska on Regatta last year. But HL baked goods excel on their dark and hearty farmers and pumpernickel bread offerings, and on little crispy white breads, Broetchen.

 

I then had a nice chat with the on-board pastor who sat down next to me ( after cautiously asking permission in the German way) and eventually told me he had spent time in graduate theology studies in the U.S. in Boston many years ago.

 

The pastor had some odd ideas and misunderstandings about the logistics of American politics he asked me about, as do many Germans, so I reluctantly gave him some facts to digest, without making him feel bad by disclosing I had been trying to keep politics, both American and German, out of my head this trip. I was also trying to ignore work and health stresses to keep the fairytale atmosphere alive, but was not totally successful. I am not religious, but enjoyed the conversation and thought he was a very nice, thoughtful, analytic man, and quite sociable for a German stranger who had not had any alcohol to drink.

 

Shortly thereafter, dinner offered this:

 

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It was pool party night, so no classical music. Pax were asked to wear white or white highlights, ( voluntary) and most obliged. Beer and champagne were complimentary at this and other parties. Waiters came by regularly with tasty canapes but most people were still full from dinner.

Half-German on her mother’s side, but English born and raised, aging (69) but well-preserved pop singer Irene Sheer sang popular German songs (called “Schlager”) that had made her successful in the 1980’s, plus some in English. Either the audience was too old to have been of age to have fun in the 80’s and be nostalgic about them, or did not care for her slightly manic and gin-laced delivery, or her accent, because they were stone-faced:

 

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I went up a deck, for better people-watching, and to be closer to the sky, and found a spot right above the Spanish dancers enjoying some down time with free champagne:

 

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For a bit I thought the pax were just there for the free alcohol, but then a half hour or so later, when the nine members of the ship band Impulse took over, and the alcohol was circulating, some pax came alive. The grandma with the only 6-year-old on board, the nephrologist, the neurologist, the import/export guy, the high level government bureaucrat, the captain, the school administrator, the on-board guest soprano, a dentist, and the few couples who danced in Gatsby’s regularly, all hit the dance floor ( apologies for the low light iphone blur):

 

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I stayed about an hour and then retreated to my suite to see what new pillow treat and pearl of wisdom for the day waited for me and also waited with anticipation until midnight when the next day’s menus and programme popped up on the TV screen. I saw it was going to be an outstanding touring, culinary and music day.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Day 8, Valenica

 

The day was overcast and cooler. The clouds marked the dreaded half-way mark of the cruise, when you realize there is less time left on board than you have spent. It always reminds me of how I have less time left in life than I have already lived, though of course on a much smaller scale.

 

I went on a small group architectural tour of the huge opera house and planetarium complex in Valencia, the City of Arts and Sciences, accompanied by the on board architecture expert and a local guide.

 

This is a very ambitious, fantastic collection of wild construction lines, curves, spirals, swoops, and zigzags originally designed by Santiago Calatrava to put Valencia on the destination map the same way the Guggenheim boosted Bilbao. So far it has not worked out financially quite the way the regional government had hoped, but for tourists, it is interesting:

 

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Normal residences across the street:

 

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The most photographed spiral in Spain, per the guide:

 

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The whole thing seemed fantastically expensive, given it was built with public money in a country with extensive social welfare spending but still unmet welfare needs and a lot of national debt relatve to GDP, and after the tour I did some research and found out it was. It cost 4x of what was intended, and Calatrava’s firm was also sued for defective designs here, ( and elsewhere):

 

https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2015/jun/09/santiago-calatrava-defends-record-architect-spain

 

 

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I just realized I goofed when I posted the last pool party picture, as I did not edit out the apps or the blob, and I also misspelled Valenica above. I need to drink the Sonoma cab *after* posting! Sorry.[emoji41]

 

In some ways I was glad it was grey out, made the light less harsh for pictures, and was more symbolic of the citys financial problems.

 

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Where’s the rest of me???

 

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These guys need instructions on how to keep their heads, when all around are losing theirs:

 

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And of course, as is common in many modern architecture settings, there was a generic hideous public art thing depicting something-or-other that required complicated explanation by the guide:

 

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Boy (man?) in a bubble:

 

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The walls in the opera house had interesting speedbumps ( even though Formula One series races no longer come here, because the city demanded too much tribute):

 

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Some of the concert halls in the complex supposedly had perfect acoustics, using birch slats on the walls at a specific angle, and Ferrari leather clad seats with special sound enhancers, whereas other halls do not, as they had started running out of money. We sat in one hall with the Ferrari leather, and the seats were crammed together end to end of the room with no aisles , very odd ( a quick and discrete exit would not be possible).

 

The arts and people working in them get special tax breaks in Spain, but the guide told us that some working people are not too happy having to pay for the amusement of the more affluent, even with child, student and senior discounts.

 

Regardless of the Valencian funding problems, this is a fascinating place to visit if you port in Valencia, near here where another expensive project, harbor area renovation, is ongoing, with several high end restaurants in the area:

 

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Thank you, Floridiana, you are very kind. I do the best I can with my little iphone, and my arthritis limitations, to preserve memories and share my fleeting experiences of wonders and paradoxes. Often on this trip I saw perfect potential shots I could not do without proper equipment and better photo-savvy, like DH has, and know he and some others on CC would have done better.

 

 

Back at the Europa ranch, in the late afternoon it was usually time for a frivolous cocktail. This is the very popular Albert Ballin ( he was the founder of the HL line and German cruising long ago) in Gatsby’s lounge. Blackberry juice, champagne, plus gin or vodka (but no umbrella, as skies were clear):

 

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That evening the delightful young and beautiful Spanish lyrical soprano on board, Sara Blanch, performed several pieces in Belcanto style, which showed off the versatility of her voice, and did this program:

 

 

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I was only able to secure one picture of her, preparing to sing, (not her best, but it shows the excellent seat angle for viewing and listening that is not hard to get on a small ship like this if I just came a few minutes early).

 

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It was an elegant casual night, so some pax in front were not dressed up much, many further back were. With classical music performances, I tend to put on some nicer clothes, old habits.

 

 

 

Sara had also done a short number in the land concert in Barcelona, wearing ( just barely) the same dress as in this short youtube video that shows off her vocal and other talents:

 

 

I am not sure what these talented singers get paid to perform on a cruise like this ( where they also have to be on board a couple days, though there are worse things than suffering through the MDR food or swimming at the uncrowded pool) but it was worth the higher cruisefare to experience this. I greatly enjoyed her singing and expressive style.

 

I do not go to live operas at home anymore, though there are regular performances near me because it is always difficult to get there and deal with crowds, I usually have to sit compressed into tight not-so-great seats with little room to escape if I start feeling ill, and the performances are just too long. I much prefer smaller venues with focussed arias or duets, as on cruise ships, (and of course recordings, but nothing beats live). There is something about that most unique instrument, the human voice, that is extremely soothing, inspiring, and simultaneously stimulating. German classical music audiences are very respectful, no talking, no rustling, and somehow also no coughing ( maybe all loaded with codeine cough syrup?)

 

 

 

 

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Day 9, Sea Day with Oktoberfest

 

The Europa does the very popular “Bayrischer Fruehschoppen” party lunch with free-flowing and “free” beer and schnapps in the Lido once every cruise usually on a sea day ( not on Europa 2), as a change of scene from the assorted international specialty menus that rotate through the Lido for lunch. Crew dressed in dirndls or Lederhosen, and there was a lavish buffet of German sausages, pretzels, Leberkaese and Suelze ( latter is jellied meat and veggies — head “cheese” — former poor people’s fare, often made from pig or other animal heads and it tastes better than it sounds), blood sausage, schmalz to die for, wieners, krakauer, and Berliner donuts, and also pork from a whole roasted pig ( presented complete with head!) are served with a variety of sides everyone older who was raised or lived in Germany long enoughknows well. The band played beerhouse music, a few people danced, some did konga line ( fortunately not many). I think I saw the most pax smiles on the cruise at this festival.

 

 

You could still eat in the MDR for lunch if this was too rowdy for you, or mix it up, perhaps some obatzda ( a Bavarian cheese and paprika snack) or

delicious house-made Spaetzle with onion and cheese:

 

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Guest artist clarinetist David Orlowsky performed Mozart clarinet concerto in the Europa lounge accompanied by Vienna string quartet, which also did some other pieces by Austrian composers, including by 20th century Austrian classical composer Von Webern ( tragically, the composer was accidentally shot by an American soldier in 1945 during the post-war occupation of Germany).

 

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Here is youtube of Orlowsky performing the Mozart elsewhere, for a sense of his style (long),

 

 

But he also has his own trio and performs klezmir style ( shorter clip)

 

 

 

and even religious music.

 

davidorlowsky.com

 

 

 

 

 

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Day 10, Malaga ( excursion to Mejas)

 

I did not see much of Malaga, just the scenic, walkable town of Mejas about 40 minutes south:

 

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They still have bull-fighting once a week. Seats in the shade cost more than those in the sun ( “sombra” vs. “sol”):

 

 

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They do like their flowers:

 

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And their parks with ruins:

 

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Man and beast used to carry heavy burdens here:

 

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Now mostly just beast does, in the form of tourists visiting Mejas:

( these guys actually looked relatively good, compared with some tourist- hauling donkeys elsewhere, and I saw them getting plenty of water, shade, and rest, though not as much as cruisers):

 

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There were some strange signs:

 

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Of course I had to buy a small, lightweight item of catlover tourist stuff, as I do most trips. This is a pillbox that incorporated local red flowers into the lacquer:

 

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( I can hear the groaning and eye-rolling [emoji846]).

 

As the number of pills I need to have handy has grown lately, I then went back and bought a second one for back-up.

 

 

Then came a flight of different wines with tapas, and I hauled back some very nice Malagan dessert wine for DH.

 

There were many tourists in Mejas but it was not oppressive, and I can recommend it as a private day trip or even half day plus excursion if you have already done Malaga and enjoy scenic little towns. This was another one of those places for my “must come back in the fall or winter” list.

 

 

 

 

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Welcome, spinnaker! I have seen your interesting reports on SS threads, and have greatly enjoyed them. I have not been on SS since 2015, but have been tempted to return.

 

 

While strolling and wining in Mejas, I missed the truffle pasta special that day (but got some the next). Had to settle on steak tatar:

 

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Ispacion was on stage again, their last show. The dancers, especially the ladies, must have had to bring at least four big suitcases per person to accomodate all the different outfits and shoes they wore ( several reds, yellow, blacks, blue etc.), plus all their off-stage clothing. I wondered if they shared rooms or each got one for themselves and their costumes.

 

In this number they had long swooshy dragging skirts they artfully kicked around without stumbling, incorporating the skirt movements into dance, and of course put on intimidating passionate seductress ( or woman scorned) looks:

 

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The men’s attire physically occupied less volume, nothing to swoosh, so they could probably get by with just two suitcases each.

Unfortunately everyone landed up with pink faces in that lighting, which detracted a little from their attempts at looking handsome and virile:

 

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I loved watching them, their agile physical beauty set to the Spanish flamenco music, even though my mind wandered, e.g., I imagined what it would be like to fast forward 40 or more years with a time machine camera and see what they look and feel like then ( if they are even still here — some of them smoke, either in Havana, the smoking lounge, or out on deck where it is allowed).

 

When I see aged luxury cruisers I sometimes try and imagine the opposite, e.g., what they looked like 40 or more years earlier, in their prime. With some well-preserved ladies with good bone structure it is easy to guess, (or so I think anyway and have shown myself right often enough to continue amusing myself guessing ), whereas with others, especially heavy bald men with major apparent medical conditions, I have few clues about their prior physical past. For all I know they had been fit Olympic athletes, male models, or military special forces ( like people I have previously met, but would never have guessed had been as fit as they had been or done what they had done, had I not found out in conversations).

Forensics experts can take a face at any age and use time progressive or regressive software to guesstimate what it would look like at a different point in the fourth dimension. Maybe our iphones will have an app for that in a couple years, and people will have the option to get another app to block the reads on the history of their faces over the years if they want total privacy when they are in public. I suspect people who looked way better on face and corpus when they were younger would allow scanning ( as long as they did not have a notorious past) , and not block strangers surreptitiously running a backwards app on them, but running it forward could be more problematic unless perhaps someone is 13 and wants to know what she will be like at 25. I for one would not mind the backwards, but would certainly block the forward as I know what the trend is.

 

After a nightcap, a couple deck laps in my sensible shoes without any swooshing skirt to drag, and a little listening to Impulse, I checked out my pillow chocolate and wisdom card of the day. The saying of the day was from Albert Einstein, “Imagination is more important than knowledge, because knowledge is limited.”

Feeling vindicated, although I was pretty sure Einstein had something else in mind besides facial manipulation apps for travelers, I turned out the light, only to turn it on a few minutes later. Thanks to my preoccupation with Ispacion, I realized I had forgotten to apply my night face cream, which I expect to slow the external ravages of time by a few microseconds per week.

 

A good night’s sleep was needed to prepare for my big walk in rainy Cadiz the next day.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Day 11, Cadiz

 

The day dawned overcast and threatening rain as we arrived in Cadiz. Many pax were heading off on a two-hour trip to Seville. Much as I would love to go back there, I did not want to spend four hours traveling, and had never been to Cadiz, so I stayed, and walked.

 

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