'Echo-ing' Round the Med on the Shadow - June 2019

[Master Echo]

PULA SUNDAY JUNE 30

 

Pula is the largest city in Croatia's Istria County, located on the top of the Istria peninsula, as is Koper, although the latter is now in Slovenia.

 

 The city and the peninsula both have a long history, including hundreds of years spent as part of the Roman and Venetian empires. It’s often referred to as Croatia's most Roman city due to the multitude of Roman ruins found throughout, having the sixth-largest surviving Roman amphitheatre in the world.  There is an admission fee to enter.

 

As with so many other towns on the Dalmatian Coast, Pula has narrow winding streets and an old town to walk through.  There is evidence in the town of its ancient past, with Roman gates and burial plots.

 

In the centre of the city, the forum is the main square and is built on the ancient site of the original old Roman forum.  Here stands the  city hall built in the 10th Century and also the Temple of August from the 11th Century.

 

Making the decision, as the town is relatively small and lacking much of significance,  Sir & Madame did not rush to go ashore.  Taking another lovely tender ride, they landed at the Rijeka quay, with the amphitheatre in full view towering above.  Obviously some restoration work was been carried out as there is a large bank of scaffolding, making it difficult to photograph the amphitheatre without  showing it.  Strolling further into the town and the adjacent streets, the area was unprepossessing and the ancient remains minimal.  The verdict was that this was the least interesting port visited thus far.  

 

Unfortunately later that evening it was evident that Sir had attracted the attention of the local fauna, with more insect bites than he could count!!  A few photos will follow. 

 

Kindest regards

 

Master Echo

 

[Master Echo]

Hello, below are some pictures from Pula Croatia.  

 

Thank you so much cruisin Pashmina for your kind words.  I am only too pleased to impart my knowledge if it helps people travelling to these ports.

 

Kindest regards

 

Master Echo

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited July 3, 2019 by Master Echo

[Master Echo]

DUBROVNIK MONDAY July 1

 

An invasion by Slavs in the 7th century destroyed communities in the area of the present day Dubrovnik, which dated back to antiquity. Subsequently, the Croats established a settlement at Dubrovnik, which means ‘wood’ in Croat.

 

It was an independent, merchant republic for 700 years until being abolished by Napoleon in 1806. It traded with Turkey and India in the East   Goa, India) and had trade representatives in Africa, in the Cape Verde Islands and even diplomatic relations with the English court in the Middle Ages.

 

Both Sir and Madame have been to Dubrovnik many times before and they were both delighted to find that the Lady Shadow was anchoring off the old town, the tender dropped passengers immediately underneath the old walls.  It would not be too hard to imagine ocean traders doing likewise centuries ago.

 

Despite the call here being a long stay, departure, being 10.00 pm,  aficionados of Sir Tom Jones were unable to avail themselves of being at the concert he was

performing in the old town from 9.30 pm, although

rehearsals for sound,  lighting and staging were in full

flow during my stay in town. 

 

Even though the only ship in port apart from Silver Shadow, was the Viking Star, the main street in the old

town in the early evening was thronging with people, predominately tourists, with only a few older locals.

 

A few notable changes since my last visit - every few feet along the main street were ATM machines, and restaurants have now burgeoned a long way up the steep side streets off the main promenade.  One wonders where else there is to go, tourism, like so many areas in this part of the world, has a price to pay.

 

That is all for my stay in Dubrovnik, hopefully to be followed shortly by Brindisi. 

 

Kindest regards

 

Master Echo

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Master Echo]

BRINDISI TUESDAY JULY 2 

 

Originally a Greek settlement before the Romans, it is rich with historical treasures and has stunning harbour views. There are two castles and gothic churches and classic Italian piazzas. Built in the 2nd century BC, the Appian Way linked Brindisi to Rome and allowed the port to become a strategic gateway to the East for the Roman Empire. In 71 BC, this area saw Spartacus leading thousands of rebel slaves in an unsuccessful escape.

 

As has been usual, the Lady Shadow embarked the pilot early as the outline of this pretty town became apparent, although it was a surprise to be faced with a largely industrial area as we docked.  Apparently, there was a late switch of berth which meant that Marella Celebration was berthed in the new cruise terminal adjacent to one of the main squares. Marella, a two star British cruise line, formally known as Thomson, has a fleet of cast off ships from other cruise lines.  The Celebration was built in 1984 and is still owned by Carnival.   This left us in the commercial port, albeit with a lovely view over the harbour.

 

Sir & Madame took the Silversea shuttle to the main square, which was rather more litter strewn, than that seen in previous ports.  They did an hour long city tour, which revealed nothing of great remark and so we returned to the ship.

 

Kindest regards

 

Master Echo

pictures to follow 🙏

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Mayflower1]

Good Afternoon Master Echo - I wonder if you feel able to comment on the trend that seems to be happening more and more - that Silversea Ships are being forced to cede more attractive Berths to Other Lines ? - Do you think this is a matter of who Pays the most or who uses the Port the most , or another reason ?

In the past Silversea always appeared to get a Prime Berth but this seems to be getting less and less and some of the Commercial Docks are far from attractive.

 

Your view would be appreciated.

[spinnaker2]

Enjoying your trip very much!

Thanks for taking the time to post the detailed reports and great photos.

[Master Echo]

 

CHANIA THURSDAY JULY 4 

 

Chania is the second largest city in Crete and considered one of the most picturesque.  It is built around an old Venetian port and castle and has been extended to parks and wide open streets.   Most ships dock at Souda, which is about 4 km from Chania, basically as the former has more facilities to cater for the larger ships.

 

Crete has about 60 olive trees per inhabitant so olive oil (the only oil traditionally used in cooking) is one of the staple foods, and  Cretan olive oil is considered superior.  Honey is another important product and Cretans consider thyme honey to be the best and it is also the most expensive.

 

One of the landmarks of Chania is the "Agora". The cross-shaped covered market at the centre of town was built in 1911-1913 after the model of the market in Marseilles and is unique in Greece. A busy market selling fresh fish, meat and produce, it also houses several tiny restaurants cooking simple,  but tasty food.

 

The Lady Shadow dropped her anchor promptly at 8.00 am, and I was delighted to see that she was facing the old Venetian Harbour, built between 1320 and 1356, and only a very short tender away from the town of Chania, rather than Souda.

 

Sir & Madame have been to this Cretan town previously, but the intervening years have shown that tourism has once again taken its toll here.  Walking from the tender station, round the pretty harbour, it was clear how many more open air restaurants there are, together with small stalls selling tourist knick-knacks.  The whole area was bustling with people of many nationalities and it became quite difficult to weave a path through this melee.

 

Their goal was to make for the Agora, the old 20th century market, in their quest to replenish their good Greek olive oil store.  However, walking slightly too far, they missed their turning on to the main street in the old town, ( reasons explained later) they had to ask for directions.  With the temperature in the 90’s Fahrenheit, or 30+ C, it was a very hot walk to climb further into the old town.  

 

The narrow streets here were virtually devoid of tourists with unimproved properties, and a greater feel for what the place used to be like.

 

Spying a large building, which appeared to be an hotel, they entered, only to find that it was a large supermarket.  Exiting with two 750 ml tins of extra virgin cold pressed olive oil, for virtually half the price of a tourist shop in the old town!  

 

Still wishing to see the Greek Orthodox Cathedral and also the market, they headed first for the latter, passed old fortifications, and along a main street bustling with modern Chania life.  Coming to the  market from a side entrance, this too was thronging with tourists and there are now many more stalls catering for their preferences, than the traditional, fruit, fish and vegetables.  It was also surprising to note that the prices too, had escalated, and were now no longer where the locals would shop for olive oil, honey etc, unless of course a two tier pricing was operational here.  The Cathedral which stands in a little square off one of the main streets, is typical and is illustrated in the accompanying pictures.

 

What was evident, is that the area roughly bounded by the market and the harbour, including the Cathedral has been pedestrianised and sanitised to the point where every property is a retail outlet for tourists.  No wonder they didnt recognise the old main street!

 

The pull of the Lady Shadow’s swimming pool became too strong, so Sir & Madame retraced their steps walking back round the harbour to catch a tender and home! 

Tomorrow Rhodes.

 

Kindest regards

 

Master Echo

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A few notable changes since my last visit - every few feet along the main street were ATM machines, and restaurants have now burgeoned a long way up the

steep side streets off the main promenade.  One

wonders where else there is to go, tourism, like so

many areas in this part of the world, has a price to pay.

 

That is all for my stay in Dubrovnik, hopefully to be followed shortly by Brindisi. 

 

 

That is all for my stay in Dubrovnik, hopefully to be followed shortly by Brindisi. 

That is all for my stay in Dubrovnik, hopefully to be followed shortly by Brindisi. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Both Sir and Madame have been to Dubrovnik many times before and they were both delighted to find that the Lady Shadow was anchoring off the old town, and the tender dropped passengers immediately underneath the old walls.  It would not be too hard to imagine ocean traders doing likewise centuries ago.

 

Despite the call here being a long stay, departure, being 10.00 pm,  aficionados of Sir Tom Jones were unable to avail themselves of being at the concert he was performing in the old town from 9.30 pm.  

 

Even though the only ship in port apart from Silver Shadow, was the Viking Star, the main street in the old town in the early evening was thronging with people, predominately tourists, with only a few older locals.

 

A few notable changes since my last visit - every few feet along the main street were ATM machines, and restaurants have now burgeoned a long way up the steep side streets off the main promenade.  One wonders where else there is to go, tourism, like so many areas in this part of the world, has a price to pay.

 

 

[Master Echo]

Apologies, I am afraid this board is driving me crazy - and I know it will not make much sense to you either.

 

It continually seems to want to repeat previous posts, so here you have my views on Chania interspersed with comments from a previous port!!

 

Please forgive me 😡😡😡

 

kindest regards

 

Master Echo

[Master Echo]

Dear Mayflower, 

 

i hear what you say,  but I do not think that SS suffers, anymore than other lines.  

 

It is not a new phenemonon either.  In 2012 in Aqaba, there were three ships in port, two were docked reasonably close to town, and the poor Wind ended up in the cement port!!

 

However increasingly round the world, port authorities are building bigger facilities to accommodate the largest ships, and seemingly it is inevitable that smaller ships are also docking there.  

 

In Chile, the original port for embarkation and turn-round was always Valparaiso,  this February, we left from San Antonio, a new cruise terminal which resembled a large aircraft hangar, with absolutely no facilities whatsoever.

 

Kindest regards, 

 

Master Echo

 

 

[jpalbny]

15 minutes ago, Master Echo said:

Apologies, I am afraid this board is driving me crazy - and I know it will not make much sense to you either.

 

It continually seems to want to repeat previous posts, so here you have my views on Chania interspersed with comments from a previous port!!

 

Please forgive me 😡😡😡

 

kindest regards

 

Master Echo

 

ME, I've seen that too. Not your fault and nothing to apologize for.

 

If you start a post but don't finish it and post it before you leave the page, the text will remain in your browser's memory, and it will reinsert itself every time you start a new post. If you catch that your browser has done that, you can clear the memory - it gives you the option to discard your previous text (In Chrome, it says "clear editor.")

 

If you don't expect and/or catch it, then the old text will reappear in perpetuity.

Edited July 7, 2019 by jpalbny

[TLCOhio]

Loved seeing your pictures and details from wonderful Dubrovnik.  Brings back nice memories.  Plus, enjoyed seeing some of these other interesting locations from these areas that are on our future to-do wish list.  Keep up the great sharing. 

 

THANKS!  Enjoy!  Terry in Ohio

 

Barcelona/Med: June 2011, with stops in Villefranche, ports near Pisa and Rome, Naples, Kotor, Venice and Dubrovnik. Great visuals with key highlights, tips, etc. Live/blog now at 247,797 views.

www.boards.cruisecritic.com/showthread.php?t=1426474

[Mayflower1]

Good Morning Master Echo - Thank you for the reply to my query. I suspect that you are absolutely right in that the Tonnage out there does now demand Larger Facilities that inevitably will be in less convenient Places - we have to go with the times !!!

 

Continue to have a wonderful Cruise and your thoughts and pictures are appreciated.

Edited July 8, 2019 by Mayflower1
Additions

[Master Echo]

Dear Jpalbny,

 

Thank you so much for your understanding - to me it is a dog's breakfast!!

 

I am afraid my track record of posting on CC is not good.  There have been several occasions when having spent some considerable time posting contemporaneously directly on the CC boards, I have lost the lot due to loss of signal or whatever.   I have therefore learned my lesson, and now compile my report on Pages, and then merely copy it onto the CC boards.  Therefore I am not using Microsoft, or Chrome.

 

Perhaps you could tell me what I have done incorrectly and hopefully I can rectify it?

 

Kindest regards

 

Master Echo  

[Master Echo]

RHODES FRIDAY JULY 5 

 

Rhodes is the largest of the Dodecanese islands and is situated at the southeast of the Aegean sea in Greece. Rhodes is also known as the island of the knights, which relates back to the Christian crusades in the Middle Ages. Rhodes city is the largest on the island and has a population of approximately 90,000 in its metropolitan area.

 

The Colossus of Rhodes was a statue of the Greek sun-god Helios, erected in the city of Rhodes in 280 BC and was one of the seven wonders of the Ancient World. It was destroyed by an earthquake in 226BC.

 

For a change on this cruise, instead of tendering, the Lady Shadow docked in the inner harbour, as always on time.  She was closely followed by the Norwegian Jade with her 2800 passengers, blocking out the sunlight momentarily, as we sat in the restaurant eating breakfast, before manouevering alongside her berth in the outer harbour.

 

In view of the large amount of people that would converge in the narrow streets of Rhodes and Lindos, and having been there only recently, Sir & Madame decided on a sea day.  However some pictures of the harbour hopefully will accompany this post.

 

Kindest regards

 

Master Echo

 

 

 

 

[Master Echo]

Dear All,

 

Photos from Rhodes and Santorini will follow -

 

However here is the post regarding Santorini

 

SANTORINI JULY 6 

 

At the height of Greece’s period of power from about 400 BC, Santorini became an important trade centre and a naval base, due to its strategically perfect position in the centre of the Aegean Sea.

 

Prior to this, Santorini hosted a civilisation around 3600 BC. Discoveries show the existence of an ancient Minoan colony, which was very similar to those found on the island of Crete, with artefacts of the same Minoan style.

 

The volcano on the island erupted in 1500 BC and was so huge that many consider it to be the main cause of the destruction of the great Minoan civilisation on the island of Crete, situated 70 nautical miles away. After the explosion, the centre of Santorini sank, and the many earthquakes that followed destroyed a big part of the rest of the island.

 

In 1204 AD, the island became part of the Venetian empire and the name was changed to honour Santa Irini, the name of a Catholic church. The tourist development began during the 1970s and today it is regarded as one of the best tourist destinations in the world and a major call by cruise ships.

 

Unfortunately the infrastructure has not kept pace with the massive influx of cruise ships visitors.  Blessedly the Lady Shadow was the only cruise ship in Santorini on this day, and it is certainly a first, as in the past few years, there have been upwards of five or six large cruise ships, or even more.  On one occasion the second Costa ship, decided not to stay, and sailed on.

 

From the very first visit of Madame in the late 60’s, when she castigated the donkey’s owner for putting too large a person on its back, not giving it regular water, and not looking after his animal.  Seemingly in the 21st century, nothing has changed.  The number of donkeys has increased, their well-being is still not considered, and worse, from a hygiene point of view, their droppings are strewn all over the paths, making it difficult for people walking.  There was a concerted effort to try to stop this activity all together, particularly as there is now a cable car, but still this trade persists.  The Shorex Manager on SS told me, they actively discourage passengers from taking the donkey rides to the top, but it is still a ‘must-do’ for some.

 

For some years now, all tenders are operated from the shore, and cruise ships are not allowed to use their own.  Obviously this comes at a price, although I do not know how much.  Although it would have been nice to renew my acquaintance with the old back streets of Santorini, particularly as the sole ship, the comments from returning passengers convinced me that my old memories were better left intact.

 

So apart from the hated P word, (packing) Sir and Madame, spent their last day in the sun by the pool, before disembarking the following day in Piraeus.

 

Kindest regards

 

Master Echo

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Master Echo]

As promised photos from Rhodes

 

Kindest regards

 

Master Echo

 

Pictures from Thira, and Oia on Santorini to follow in next post

[Master Echo]

Finally at last a few pictures taken from the Lady Shadow of the island of Santorini, showing the villages of Thira and Ia

 

Kindest regards

 

Master Echo

 

 

[Master Echo]

Battle of the Venetians

I have reported previously that there was a marked difference in the demographics of the two cruises.  The first was more typical of SS.  The second had ten young children and an approximately 40-strong party of American university baseball players, including some with their parents and younger siblings. 

Most Venetians dislike cruising with other people’s badly behaved children and the arrival of a children’s counsellor on the second day helped to ensure an adult’s equivalent was not required!  For the majority of the voyage, the young children were entertained in the conference room during the day and so away from the other public spaces.

Once Henry, the HD, had informed all families with children of whatever age by letter about the rules appertaining to the swimming pool, combined with instructions to his managers to enforce these politely, harmony prevailed.  Drinks glasses were removed from within the wooden pool surround by the stewards, although some passengers continued to sit with glasses by the pool’s edge. The baby in nappies/diapers, who was lowered into the pool by its mother, did not have this experience repeated following complaints.

One battle that was lost concerned the smoking of cigars, which Silversea permits in all smoking areas.  On the second night, four cigar smokers created such a fog outside Panorama as to make it a no-go area for non-smokers.  Complaints bore no fruit because their action was within the rules but there was a view that the rules need changing.  Smoking has now become a pariah activity, and to allow any smoking on one side of the ship, cannot stop it drifting across the open decks to the other.  I accept that some people do wish to smoke, but they should be confined to a special room, and so speaks an ex-smoker!!

As to the activity of the baseball players themselves, they might usefully be described as the typical clean-cut all-American boys, who behaved appropriately in public.  One parent recounted that they’ lived it up’ in their cabins well into the small hours, ordering room service steaks at 2.00 AM.  Pity the poor night butlers and galley staff!

The foregoing was something of a baptism of fire for Sandra during her first contract as CD, having been promoted from Assistant CD.  Dining with her on the second evening, she was called away to deal with a passenger incident on pool deck.  Henry’s part in managing matters should not be underestimated.  I have seen reports on these boards where HDs fail to take steps to enforce the rules, which are there for the benefit and comfort of all passengers.

One final point on the rules governing general behaviour round the swimming pool.  These are posted on a small board, adjacent to the showers, and are not very visible, particularly as almost all passengers, except for a small handful, ever used the shower before going in or out of the pool.  This should be enforced, not least on hygiene grounds! 

PIRAEUS SUNDAY JULY 7

The Lady Shadow docked alongside the usual cruise ship pier in Piraeus, the port for Athens.  The pier has two faces, with an embarkation hall and segregated luggage collection area for those disembarking.

Past experience here meant I opted for “own arrangements” for onward travel because taxis are plentiful outside the embarkation hall and stand under cover.  This meant that I was not tied to a predetermined debark slot but could head off the ship at the last call at 09.45.

I took a leisurely breakfast in the MDR where I was joined by Henry, (HD) and we reflected on the preceding 20 days.  This meant it was a little after 10.00 before I was swiped out for the final time, and found the luggage, the last to be collected, in the care of one of the Shore Excursions staff, which I thought was most thoughtful.  A €50 taxi ride to the airport was half the Silversea price for the group transfer, let alone that of a private car.

And so to a few overall impressions.  Whilst the ship might be judged to be dated, it was not especially tired, bearing in mind it will shortly be ripped apart in dry dock.

Food service in the MDR at breakfast and dinner was very good, which cannot be said for service in the bars when non-Filipino staff were involved.  I have sailed with Executive Chef Grant before and the food then was excellent.  Overall, the quality was not as good this time.

Whilst the six Voices of Silversea were excellent, there were no guest entertainers. Occasionally on previous cruises, a local folkloric show would be staged in the theatre.  Unfortunately, in Kotor, the expected “group” were not allowed to come aboard by the Montenegrin immigration, possibly as we had tendered, maybe they feared, they wouldn’t return!  Pity those on the Grand Voyage with 47 nights of performances repeating around every ten days.

As is invariably the case, the friendliness and warmth of the crew helps to make the holiday and some of those with whom I have sailed before feel sufficiently confident to joke with me.  This onboard atmosphere is what brings me back to Silversea because there are other luxury lines that sail to the same ports and offer a similar food and beverage product.

Well that is all, and winds up my trip from Monaco to Athens, and I would like to thank you all for your kind comments and hope you may have been interested in some of my doings!

Arrivederci

Kindest regards

Master Echo

[nowornever]

Thanks, Master Echo for your wonderful reports & photos.  If you have a chance, can you ask who will be on the South America Grand Voyage on the Shadow in Jan - CD, etc?  I'm so happy for Sandra's promotion - sounds like she was faced with a bad situation immediately.  Those 7 day cruises can be brutal & now it seems like if they don't fill up the longer segments, they will divide them into shorter & shorter segments.  Hello kids & party goers !

 

Continue to enjoy & I hope the little darlings - and their parents - don't become even more annoying.  

[Tothesunset]

Thanks for your comprehensive report and album of photos. It was almost like sailing along with you! 

[spinnaker2]

Many thanks ME! We enjoyed it immensely!

[drron29]

Thanks for that Detailed report.We are doing a Piraeus to Venice cruise on the Shadow next year with similiar ports sowe now have a few ideas about what to do in several ports.

We too like to have our own arrangements when disembarking.Much more convenient and definitely saves money.

[Silver Spectre]

Thanks for your detailed report and loved your final wrap up. Glad to hear of Henry’s excellent performance, sounds like a real positive addition for SS. Where are you off to next?