Greek Islands

[sb44]

I know many of you have been through the Greek Islands on one of the sailing or motor ships. Would love to hear about the favorites,  why  and the things you would stay away from. We are 20 days on the Surf and 10 of those days will be the islands. A busy and hot time of year for sure but it worked for us.  Please share your thoughts.  

[milepig]

Could you point us to your itin on the WS website and/or post the islands you're visiting.

Edited June 18, 2019 by milepig

[sb44]

1 hour ago, milepig said:

Could you point us to your itin on the WS website and/or post the islands you're visiting.

Sure.  Star Collector Islands of Greece & Italy sailing from Barcelona 7/15. 

https://www.windstarcruises.com/cruise/star-collector-voyages/star-collector-islands-of-greece-and-italy/?id=410&sid=2601

 

• Barcelona Palma de Mallorca Mahon Alghero Amalfi Catania Valletta Gythion Athens Nafplio Mykonos Ermoupoli Kusadasi Patmos Rhodes Agios Nikolaos Santorini Monemvasia Athens

Going in a few days early to spend time in Barcelona to acclimate to time changes and do and see things we missed on other visits there.  We have private tours booked for many of the stops along the way and I'm curious on the Greek islands of whether there are things those who have been there think are "musts" and things that were overrated. Then we're staying on in Athens for a few days.  Lots of moving around, something like 19 stops. This will be a busy "vacation"!  Thanks for input.

[Ski Mom 2]

We cruised many years ago to some of those ports.

 

We were on Rhodes where I think we had a walking tour and then wandered around on our own (our favorite thing). It is a walled city and we loved the older parts.

 

Our stop on Mykonos was an afternoon - late evening stop. We shopped (I got a beautiful gold bracelet and matching ring) and then hung out in the evening. The nightlife is what Mykonos is (was at the time) known for. I would have liked more daylight time there to explore.

 

Santorini was our favorite stop and I'd love to go back. We took a tour and then had time on our own. While I'm sure the tour was informational (I can't remember back that far!) being on your own in Santorini would be my option today. We stopped for appetizers and drinks high on  the cliff overlooking the caldera and it was stunning!

 

We just love to wander on  our own, eat, drink, shop and meet the locals. Our on 25 day Mediterranean WS cruise last September we mostly did all the small stops on our own and had a fabulous time. 

[sb44]

We have several stops using Tours By Locals guides as we like getting off the beaten path and don't like the large group tours with busses. The TBL guides are usually good but boy, there are a lot of stops this time. We have tours booked for about half. I've gone online to see what ships will be in port with us and tried to have a guide where there are thousands of people at the same time figuring they can get us away from the masses. In Rhodes there will be 5,000 people in port at the same time. Patmos the same number and our plan is to just stay on board that day.

[Ski Mom 2]

I think your cruise sounds fabulous! We had so many stops on our back2back2back last September I know just how you feel. I think it's OK not to have a tour lined up every day. Sometimes you may meet someone on board who has been to one of your stops who might have a good idea on what you should do. Sometimes you might be tired from the days prior where you just need a relaxed day. Just to be able to get off the ship, wander around a beautiful town, find a lovely lunch spot and have a chat with the owner can make for a fantastic day. 🙂

 

[Strenz]

I was very disappointed in Santorini, Rhodes and Mykonos. It was there that I had my epiphany. I have very gratefully traveled a lot  but those three island in my opinion grim. My epiphany was I do not need to see what the rest of the world does. Those three islands were mobbed. In Santorini we walked to the very end of the town and down, found quiet and the garbage  » truck » which was a donkey, that was great. Seriously I loved that and followed the ´garbage truck ´. Rhodes you have to go through the gates where there was one horrid tourist  shop after the next and hawkers. I did go into the museum which was interesting then I had to get out left by another gate and walked all around the marina and piers came to a wonderful boat that was laden with shells, very funky. Mykonos went to a beach I was done. However, we were thrilled we were on the Star because these islands looking at them from the water were spectacular. On the islands themselves I disliked. Please note I hate shopping and I love art, too   many  shops not enough art and far too many people. It was a great, great trip though. Great swimming from the boat. 

[milepig]

10 minutes ago, sb44 said:

Sure.  Star Collector Islands of Greece & Italy sailing from Barcelona 7/15. 

https://www.windstarcruises.com/cruise/star-collector-voyages/star-collector-islands-of-greece-and-italy/?id=410&sid=2601

 

• Barcelona Palma de Mallorca Mahon Alghero Amalfi Catania Valletta Gythion Athens Nafplio Mykonos Ermoupoli Kusadasi Patmos Rhodes Agios Nikolaos Santorini Monemvasia Athens

Going in a few days early to spend time in Barcelona to acclimate to time changes and do and see things we missed on other visits there.  We have private tours booked for many of the stops along the way and I'm curious on the Greek islands of whether there are things those who have been there think are "musts" and things that were overrated. Then we're staying on in Athens for a few days.  Lots of moving around, something like 19 stops. This will be a busy "vacation"!  Thanks for input.

 

I'll concentrate on the islands:

 

Nafplio. Very nice town, we docked right in the middle of town. There's a very well kept central area with interesting shops. We took the steps up to the old fortress, not for the faint of heart, better to take a taxi or tour up the back way. There are two museus that we didn't go to. I remember a very nice seafood lunch right at the port.

 

Mykonos: we missed due to high winds/currents. This is apparently comment. We went to Milos instead, which turned out to be fascinating.

 

Ermoupoli: another nice stop. Again we moored very close to the center. If I have the cities right this is the one with the two churches on the two hills. I walked to the one on the right when you face the city from the ship. I look a fairly easy short route up, and than back to the city down a long stretch of steps. Impossible to get lost - on the way up just keep looking for the tower, on the way down, all steps lead tot he city center. Again, a nice main area to walk around.

 

Kusadasi: This is all about Ephasus. No question, just go.

 

Patmos: Not on our itin.

 

Rhodes: You dock a bit of a walk from the center of town, but it's very doable. If you head right along the shoreline you'll come to  the palace of the Grand Knights is wonderful and has nice gardens. Also the archaeological musuem.  On our way back we took a street a bit above the shore route that was filled with shops and restaurants, and then a street that led downhill right to the harbor. I don't remember having to look to find them, it just seemed natural. Some people did trips around the island and came back pleased, we just stayed in town and had a great day. If you have a late sail like we did, many from the ship went back into down for dinner at about sunset and came back RAVING about the experience.

 

Agaio Nikolaos: Not on our itin.

 

Santorini: We actually did a WS tour that day and liked it a lot. We started at the top of the hill and walked along the part with the white villas. The views were amazing.  The sesame coated peanuts they sell everywhere are amazing. We did NOT take the donkeys back down to the shore and am glad, those who did smelled really bad.

 

Modemvasia: not on our itin

 

 

[milepig]

32 minutes ago, Strenz said:

I was very disappointed in Santorini, Rhodes and Mykonos. It was there that I had my epiphany. I have very gratefully traveled a lot  but those three island in my opinion grim. My epiphany was I do not need to see what the rest of the world does. Those three islands were mobbed. In Santorini we walked to the very end of the town and down, found quiet and the garbage  » truck » which was a donkey, that was great. Seriously I loved that and followed the ´garbage truck ´. Rhodes you have to go through the gates where there was one horrid tourist  shop after the next and hawkers. I did go into the museum which was interesting then I had to get out left by another gate and walked all around the marina and piers came to a wonderful boat that was laden with shells, very funky. Mykonos went to a beach I was done. However, we were thrilled we were on the Star because these islands looking at them from the water were spectacular. On the islands themselves I disliked. Please note I hate shopping and I love art, too   many  shops not enough art and far too many people. It was a great, great trip though. Great swimming from the boat. 

 

Rhodes was also the single best WS moment ever - that that's saying a lot. The Star and the Spirit were in port on the same day, one going West and one East. We sailed at the same time, a late sail so it was dark. The two captains turned on all the sail lights and we circled each other two or three times before we left port and then one went in one direction and one in the other. Magical.

 

 

Edited June 18, 2019 by milepig

[sb44]

29 minutes ago, milepig said:

 

I'll concentrate on the islands:

 

Nafplio. Very nice town, we docked right in the middle of town. There's a very well kept central area with interesting shops. We took the steps up to the old fortress, not for the faint of heart, better to take a taxi or tour up the back way. There are two museus that we didn't go to. I remember a very nice seafood lunch right at the port.

 

Mykonos: we missed due to high winds/currents. This is apparently comment. We went to Milos instead, which turned out to be fascinating.

 

Ermoupoli: another nice stop. Again we moored very close to the center. If I have the cities right this is the one with the two churches on the two hills. I walked to the one on the right when you face the city from the ship. I look a fairly easy short route up, and than back to the city down a long stretch of steps. Impossible to get lost - on the way up just keep looking for the tower, on the way down, all steps lead tot he city center. Again, a nice main area to walk around.

 

Kusadasi: This is all about Ephasus. No question, just go.

 

Patmos: Not on our itin.

 

Rhodes: You dock a bit of a walk from the center of town, but it's very doable. If you head right along the shoreline you'll come to  the palace of the Grand Knights is wonderful and has nice gardens. Also the archaeological musuem.  On our way back we took a street a bit above the shore route that was filled with shops and restaurants, and then a street that led downhill right to the harbor. I don't remember having to look to find them, it just seemed natural. Some people did trips around the island and came back pleased, we just stayed in town and had a great day. If you have a late sail like we did, many from the ship went back into down for dinner at about sunset and came back RAVING about the experience.

 

Agaio Nikolaos: Not on our itin.

 

Santorini: We actually did a WS tour that day and liked it a lot. We started at the top of the hill and walked along the part with the white villas. The views were amazing.  The sesame coated peanuts they sell everywhere are amazing. We did NOT take the donkeys back down to the shore and am glad, those who did smelled really bad.

 

Modemvasia: not on our itin

 

 

Thanks so much for all of the detail.  Did you do the WS tour of in Kusadasi or your own?  We have a private guide lined up for the daytime and then there is the Windstar dinner at night.  Just pondering the options. 

The "sail by" of the Star and Spirit is one of those magical moments that only happens by chance. Glad you were able to experience it.

[sb44]

1 hour ago, Strenz said:

I was very disappointed in Santorini, Rhodes and Mykonos. It was there that I had my epiphany. I have very gratefully traveled a lot  but those three island in my opinion grim. My epiphany was I do not need to see what the rest of the world does. Those three islands were mobbed. In Santorini we walked to the very end of the town and down, found quiet and the garbage  » truck » which was a donkey, that was great. Seriously I loved that and followed the ´garbage truck ´. Rhodes you have to go through the gates where there was one horrid tourist  shop after the next and hawkers. I did go into the museum which was interesting then I had to get out left by another gate and walked all around the marina and piers came to a wonderful boat that was laden with shells, very funky. Mykonos went to a beach I was done. However, we were thrilled we were on the Star because these islands looking at them from the water were spectacular. On the islands themselves I disliked. Please note I hate shopping and I love art, too   many  shops not enough art and far too many people. It was a great, great trip though. Great swimming from the boat. 

I remember you telling me this somewhere along the way which is why I have a guide in all three figuring we can get away from the crowds.  I've asked for "away from the crowds" experiences with food, wine and local people. Fishing villages!  We'll see what we wind up with...Some of the Windstar tours sound interesting but can't do busses. Crete and Santorini in port in the evenings so will do dinner at local spots.  TripAdvisor is so good for that information.

[sb44]

1 hour ago, Ski Mom 2 said:

I think your cruise sounds fabulous! We had so many stops on our back2back2back last September I know just how you feel. I think it's OK not to have a tour lined up every day. Sometimes you may meet someone on board who has been to one of your stops who might have a good idea on what you should do. Sometimes you might be tired from the days prior where you just need a relaxed day. Just to be able to get off the ship, wander around a beautiful town, find a lovely lunch spot and have a chat with the owner can make for a fantastic day. 🙂

 

We have kind of an every other day tour lined up except a couple of two in a row here and there but then two in a row on our own. It will work itself out.  I'm one of those people who hates to go somewhere and spend the day in a coffee shop or a bar.  If I go, I want to see and experience as much as I can which is exhausting but great memories which is why I wind up with TBL in many ports.  Once we convince our guide that we do not want to go to every museum and church and that we are more interested in local things, we have great days.  Of course there are some churches and museums we do want to see and include those too in certain places.  In Valetta, Malta, Strenz has given me chapter and verse on the Caravaggio in St John's Cathedral.  We have a guide there as we want to do this justice and there are also two mega-ships in port.   

[milepig]

18 minutes ago, sb44 said:

Thanks so much for all of the detail.  Did you do the WS tour of in Kusadasi or your own?  We have a private guide lined up for the daytime and then there is the Windstar dinner at night.  Just pondering the options. 

The "sail by" of the Star and Spirit is one of those magical moments that only happens by chance. Glad you were able to experience it.

 

This was before they added the dinner, but we did a WS tour that day which was good. We had a good guide, and this was one of our first itins before we really knew about private tours.

 

THere was a period when I think both ships were routinelyin Rhodes on the same day.

[Strenz]

Milepig, We also had one of those moments. I think it  was Bodrum when both ships the Star and Spirit were at the same dock. We left at the same time, it was if we were dancing together.  Truly magnificent.  . That trip we had two amazing sailing experiences. I thought  leaving Istanbul Harbor was glorious. What a harbor with the city in the background. Every possible type of boat and ship, the busyness of it. I guess all in all I was disappointed due to the crowds in the 3 Greek Islands. I  certainly loved the scenery, the donkey ’ garbage  truck ´, the beach and fabulous taxi driver in Mykonos and my walk along the pier and marina in Rhodes visiting the shell boat and lady. The people were warm and wonderful and the food out of this world. We have had such great travel experiences with WS. We are totally grateful. 

[milepig]

8 minutes ago, Strenz said:

Milepig, We also had one of those moments. I think it  was Bodrum when both ships the Star and Spirit were at the same dock. We left at the same time, it was if we were dancing together.  Truly magnificent.  . That trip we had two amazing sailing experiences. I thought  leaving Istanbul Harbor was glorious. What a harbor with the city in the background. Every possible type of boat and ship, the busyness of it. I guess all in all I was disappointed due to the crowds in the 3 Greek Islands. I  certainly loved the scenery, the donkey ’ garbage  truck ´, the beach and fabulous taxi driver in Mykonos and my walk along the pier and marina in Rhodes visiting the shell boat and lady. The people were warm and wonderful and the food out of this world. We have had such great travel experiences with WS. We are totally grateful. 

 

Leaving Istanbul is also on the list - made more so by the hotel we chose last time we were there, the Witt. This was out room:

 

https://www.wittistanbul.com/king-panoramic-with-terrace/

 

every morning and evening we'd sit on the terrace and just listen to the sounds of Istanbul, especially when the various calls to prayer rang out for minaret to minaret. We actually saw the, um, Spirit I think, sailing in the morning of our boarding. Then at the end, sailing out with all the boats, sailing past Gallipoli with a live commentator. Istanbul is another magical place, another port that the sailed ships are made for. I miss it and wouldn't hesitate to go back and will do so soon. I can't imagine a more charming and welcoming people.

[sb44]

We would have gone in a heartbeat if still on the itinerary.  You all were lucky to have experienced that great city.

[beachtrl]

When in Santorini you should really consider having a lunch/wine tasting at Venetsanos Winery. The food, wine and most of the view from their restaurant patio was awesome. 

[jaxbandit]

I am also on this cruise and I am getting a little nervous about wether I will enjoy it.  Between the heat and the crowds I am hearing about I am not so sure any more.  We have 2 WS excursions booked so far - the Ephesus tour and a catamaran sail in Santorini.  Has anyone done the catamaran before?  It leaves at 10 and last for 4 hours.  I wasn't sure if that would allow me enough time to walk around Santorini or not - maybe it will be a good thing to escape the crowds.... I was considering booking my own catamaran in Mykonos since we have an overnight there but it I don't know if I want to risk missing the stop do to rough seas.  I figured we would just walk around on our own at  the other stops on the cruise as most of them seem pretty small.  I am sure it will be fun no matter what so fingers crossed!

[milepig]

6 hours ago, sb44 said:

We would have gone in a heartbeat if still on the itinerary.  You all were lucky to have experienced that great city.

 

Don’t wait for a cruise. Just go!!  I’m not shilling for the hotel I linked but it was in a neighborhood close to many local restaurants you’d never find except by wandering and an easy walk to the new city. Not touristy so safe. Istanbul is amazing. Go. 

[Strenz]

I made a mistake not hiring a driver/ guide on Santorini. We were there in the fall and it was mobbed. Knowing what I do I would take the catamaran sail in a minute. I think the true beauty is from the water. Unless you get away from Oia walking around will not be wonderful. Ephesus was glorious. Fascinating. Don’t let them you take you to a rug store,  serious rip off. Ours did after I specifically  asked them not to.   Then they hounded me at home. There is a restaurant next door asked to be taken to a seaside place. However, they did a great job in Ephesus and that was the point. Happy Sailing.

[Strenz]

Istanbul an incredible city. I, as well loved the sounds of the call to prayer. The diversity, the history, the food, the people with their kindness and generosity, the harbor it is  truly a  thrilling place. I went a year before the troubles, I am sad for that and their government right now. I am not an afraid person but not sure right now I would go back. I think Turkey was a great country to visit. Glad  I did  when we could. 

[Traval]

When in Gythion you simply must visit Mystras. This is a very old Byzantine walled town inland from Gythion.

You drive across the plains of Laconia and through Sparta---so much history here.

Mystras itself is absolutely fascinating with its beautiful churches full of icons. We did the ship's tour but you may find a local guide to take you.You definitely need a guide to get the best out of this area.

We went in July and it was VERY hot but so worth it.

[swixpat]

Our so far last cruise on sb (before we started on windstar) was to these greek islands in July 2016, so here my experiences:

We've done on our own:

Monemvasia - tender place - nice walk across the dam into the old town up the hill that is mainly deserted, with the occasional coffee shop and an interesting church. But, besides the small alley ways between the houses there is no shelter from the sun. And it is cobble stones only. There is a transport from the port to the entrance of the old town (€), but it is doable on foot.

 

Nafplio - not an island, but still good. The town centre is nice, reminded me of some French small towns. Central square to sit in and observe. The old fort above offers great views, the hike up is a bit steep. There is a luxury hotel at the foot of the old fort, and they have an elevator that takes you pretty much smack into the town centre when you are done with the visit.

 

Patmos - tender. At the tender place is a public bus taking people up to the monastery. This is worthwile going to, and the views are great from up there too. Price very low for the bus, was a good investment.

 

Agios Nikolaos was my swimming place. From the port up the hill and down on the other side - large beach in front of you. Was great!

 

Rhodes was very crowded in the old town. We went to the new parts in search of a daily newspaper (found it), a coffe and a view of the small port.

 

Mykonos was ok, the walk through the town and up to the windmills is doable. Again, cobble stones for large parts. Mykonos has two ports for cruise ships, I hope you get the spot in town. The more modern one requires transport to the town.

 

Santorini - don't get me started. The only way for me is making sure I get on the very first tender boat that takes the pilot/customs man into the old harbor. The climb up to Fyra, or Thyra as it is also known, is in the shade in the morning, so I get my workout from this. The donkeys are not yet out, the other tourists neither, so that is my recipe. The town though is still pretty much asleep if you are looking for souvenirs. The advantage to my trip there is that the cable car down did not present a challenge with queues for tickets and pods. I have tried all other non animal related ways to see Santorini from a cruise ship tendering to the old harbour, they all require patience and quick feet.

 

 

[CruiseOrLand]

We really liked Monemvasia, which is entirely do-able without the ship's walking-excursion. Maybe it was because the ship couldn't get into Mykonos in a storm (and many passengers were seasick), but the last minute substitution of Monemvasia turned out to be a lovely day in a not very crowded, and almost unspoiled "old town". Fitness is required to get up the steps to the upper level, but even just the lower level is very nice. The tendering was very close and not time consuming. This town is visually comparable to Pèrouges, France, but of course has a sea view. I think I had the Patrick O'Brian novel that spends time there with me, by accident.

 

It's far too late to make arrangements, but we were sorry to miss the VERY limited capacity (and independent, only) visit to one of the WHS sites on Valetta, the Hypogeum. This has such limited capacity that it books up the day they put a day of admissions on sale. The ship's tour included the Megalithic Temples WHS. And of course the town is easy to make a wonderful day of, without any tour bookings at all. Many restaurants require reservations, although of course you can sit down at a modest cafe without a reservation. I think our port day was Sunday, which made it harder to see the Cathedral. But we did see a wedding at a neighborhood church. And later, it turned out the same wedding had booked the big green lawn just below the tourist plaza that overlooks the cruise mooring zone with the elevator up to the town, for their reception.

[sb44]

1 hour ago, CruiseOrLand said:

We really liked Monemvasia, which is entirely do-able without the ship's walking-excursion. Maybe it was because the ship couldn't get into Mykonos in a storm (and many passengers were seasick), but the last minute substitution of Monemvasia turned out to be a lovely day in a not very crowded, and almost unspoiled "old town". Fitness is required to get up the steps to the upper level, but even just the lower level is very nice. The tendering was very close and not time consuming. This town is visually comparable to Pèrouges, France, but of course has a sea view. I think I had the Patrick O'Brian novel that spends time there with me, by accident.

 

It's far too late to make arrangements, but we were sorry to miss the VERY limited capacity (and independent, only) visit to one of the WHS sites on Valetta, the Hypogeum. This has such limited capacity that it books up the day they put a day of admissions on sale. The ship's tour included the Megalithic Temples WHS. And of course the town is easy to make a wonderful day of, without any tour bookings at all. Many restaurants require reservations, although of course you can sit down at a modest cafe without a reservation. I think our port day was Sunday, which made it harder to see the Cathedral. But we did see a wedding at a neighborhood church. And later, it turned out the same wedding had booked the big green lawn just below the tourist plaza that overlooks the cruise mooring zone with the elevator up to the town, for their reception.

Thanks so much. Hopefully we will make Mykonos as we are due to overnight there and want to have dinner in port. Monemvasia is one of the days we have no real plans. Once I read that it was car-free I figured we could manage this stop. There are no other ships listed for the port that day which can mean anything but if there was a mega ship we'd likely see it online.  We're pretty much committed in Valetta with a guide who has wonderful reviews. First stop is the Co-Cathedral and then lots of "local" things.  I wasn't too interested in the Grandmaster's Palace and once I found out it is under renovation, decided to skip.  Fun seeing weddings along the way. We happened upon one in Middleburg Belgium and have some lovely photos of the bride and groom!