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Antarctica - Small Ship Expedition


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h2so4 --

 

Thank you for the very prompt reply. I live north of the river from you, about 10 miles north of the White House. I was born in DC and that is where I get my user name, "dc native."

 

Again thanks for the info. I will get in touch with Ana immediately.

 

David

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dc native -- when is your cruise? We are cruising Dec 10-21.

 

h2so4 -- a couple more little questions...did you do any kind of vaccinations before your trip? And did you lock your luggage - using those TSA approved locks. When we travel locally, we usually don't lock the bags, but flying internationally has me worried. I know, silly questions, but I worry about these things.

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h2so4

You mentioned that you booked your international flights using an internet consolidator and a travel agent (Mayra) for your round trip tickets from BsAs to Ushuaia. How did you find or how would you recommend finding a good travel agent in Buenos Aires? We plan to follow the same path you took and that is fly into BA early and spend several days there, before heading onto Ushuaia. Do you recall how long of a flight it is from BA to Ushuaia?

 

kands

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dc native: enjoy your side trip to Iguazu Falls. We ended up canceling our visit to Iguazu due to time constraints; we'll definitely go when we make a return trip to Argentina; so much to see and do.

 

FandFmom: there are no silly questions. We did not have any vaccinations done - there was no requirement for it at the time, especially since we weren't planning any jungle visits in S America. If you haven't already done so, check the CDC website for current vaccination requirements.

 

As for locking our luggage. We took duffles and used plastic ties to lock everything; we do the same when we fly domestically as well. If you don't have zipper pulls on your luggage, however, I would suggest using TSA approved locks.

 

KANDS: I think Mayra's name might have been mentioned on the SA board here as well (you can do a search), but I frequented the Latin America board on Fodor's once we knew we were going to Antarctica. A search for travel agents there came up with lots of recommendations from other posters - Mayra Brill and Cintia from WOW Argentina were amongst them. (I've also seen them mentioned on TripAdvisor and Frommers.) I contacted both; Mayra responded first with all the answers to my questions, so I went with her (Cintia's response came a few hours later). Another factor in my decision to use Mayra rather than Cintia was that we did not need anything except airline tickets and maybe a hotel reservation. (From the discussions, it seemed to me that Cintia was used for more extensive arrangements.)

 

The consensus on the Fodors board seemed to be that local agents were able to get much better prices on domestic flights. At one point, a Delta agent had told us BsAs-Ushuaia would run us $600pp, which was consistent with the Aerolineas Argentina site. We ended up paying around $200pp with Mayra making the arrangements.

 

As for the length of the flight from BsAs to Ushuaia - I think it was somewhere between 3-4 hours. There are a limited number of direct flights, however, and the ones that aren't direct can add a lot of additional travel time depending on the routing. After reading about delays being a common occurrence with domestic flights, and knowing there had been a strike or two in recent years, we opted to spend our pre-cruise days in Ushuaia rather than BsAs. You've read my journal, so you know that for us going to Ushuaia three days early turned out to be the right decision.

 

By the way, I had posted that I would see if I could get my hands on the link for the review by the couple that camped overnight in Antarctica. No luck yet; but if I do find it, I will post it here.

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Just watched your favorites again on smugmug. What type of camera did you have with you. What lens did you use the most. I have a rebel xti and am thinking about getting a 40D so I have a second body.

 

You mentioned one of your cameras died. Did it get wet on the zodiac.

 

Sorry for all the questions, but as it gets closer I keep on thinking.

 

Regards

 

Robert

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Please don't apologize for the questions - I was once in your shoes!

 

I started out with two Canon 20D bodies; one had a Tamron 18-200 lens on it; the other had the Canon 100-400L IS lens on it. I got the most use out of the 18-200; more often than not the reach of the 100-400 was too much. One camera died and went to camera heaven when our zodiac was hit by a rogue wave in South Georgia. The camera was around my neck (in a ziplock bag since I was using it during the zodiac cruise). (Silver lining - insurance paid up; I have a brand new 40D to replace it.) On the few occasions when the water was rough, I used a small point and shoot for pictures from the zodiac, but the time we were hit by the wave, I was using my 20D since it was quite calm. The wave really came out of nowhere and everyone bore the brunt of it - I think 4-5 people lost some kind of camera equipment due to water damage on that little trip.

 

I would say two bodies that can use the same lenses are essential; the Rebel and the 40D should fit the bill in that respect. I was loathe to change lenses once I was down to a single body, so I was especially glad I had the 18-200 with me and that it wasn't damaged by water. I'd put the lens you anticipate using the most on the 40D.

 

Consider a monopod for additional stability - especially if your lenses are not stabilized. And take some silica packs with you to draw out humidity in case it becomes necessary.

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Most of the bird shots are with the 100-400 -- most taken aboard the ship; from the stern; leaning against the slightly slanted cranes for additional stability.

 

I did not take a camera on the first zodiac trip after the accident with the rogue wave; and I regret it to this day. Not only were the waters flat calm, but since it was a cruise and not a landing, I missed out on getting any pictures at all. After that, I took my 20D on all zodiac cruises. Once we arrived at the cruising locale, took the 20D out of the waterproof bag to take pictures. Except for that one instance in S Georgia, water conditions were never rough enough to give me any concern.

 

In the peninsula area, there were only two places where we did zodiac cruises (the rest were zodiac landings, and you'd likely not be taking any pictures while the zodiac is in motion anyway). Both those zodiac cruises were in flat calm water - glacier cruise to Petzval Glacier in Paradise Bay, and cruise of the iceberg graveyard in Pleneau Bay. Your Rebel will do fine for both those occasions if you're concerned about taking the 40D; just make sure you have the right lens on it (my 18-200 was perfect). (Not familiar with the s500 - but if it isn't a "super zoom" you might regret not having the reach of a longer lens.) In any event, I would probably take the good camera in a waterproof bag and bring it out if I feel comfortable with the conditions; you need to do what you feel comfortable with.

 

If your cameras and lenses are not insured, you might consider adding them to a floater to your home owner's policy; that will go a long way towards easing your mind.

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h2so4, after reading about your unfortunate experience with your camera, I thought about taking our underwater camera for taking pictures while on the zodiac. It isn’t much better than those disposable underwater cameras; the only difference is you can change the film. Did you notice anyone else using those?

roberts2005, maybe you'll take one of those underwater cameras and if you do, you can let me know what you think. My trip isn't until 2/2009.

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KANDS

 

I too am nervous about my cameras. I have an older Canon digital elph. Small 5 pixel camera with pretty good qua;ity. I bought on ebay for about $30.00 a water proof bag. That is made for under water use. It's heavy vinyl. It's made by Dicap. It looks like it might do the job.

 

Robert

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  • 2 weeks later...

KANDS - Sorry for the delay in responding to your post; I was travelling overseas and didn't have time to check the boards.

 

No, I did not notice anyone using underwater cameras of the type you describe (or any disposable cameras for that matter). One person had a point & shoot digital camera in a waterproof casing, but that was it. Despite the incident, everyone seemed comfortable using their regular cameras, but we were all a little more careful while in the zodiacs. That one incident with the rogue wave was the only time when the water was a little choppy; the rest of the time it was very smooth. We never took pictures while the zodiacs were transferring us to a landing spot - too much movement and we were hanging on to the ropes on the side of the zodiac. On zodiac cruises, the water was always very calm, and we were in protected bays.

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  • 4 weeks later...

h2so4

Thank you so much for that fantastic review and the lovely photos. I was enthralled from beginning to end! I'm leaving for my trip on Explorer II in 3 weeks (only to the Peninsula unfortunately, not Sth Georgia or the Falklands) and I appreciate reading even the most minute details from anyone who has been there. I particularly appreciated the tips on what clothing to pack, as I live in Queensland, Australia, so my winter wardrobe consists of a cardigan to throw on if it gets a bit chilly! There's obviously a whole world of winter-wear out there that I need to get familiar with.

 

I've never used a photo-sharer before so can I please ask how/why you chose the one you did? Are there many differences between the providers and are you happy with SmugMug? Were you able to upload photos from the ship?

 

Thanks again

Yvette

 

PS - your positivity in the face of things like "delayed" suitcases was very refreshing and reminded me to try and have the same attitude if anything goes wrong on my trip!

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Glad you enjoyed the journal and the photos, cirque - putting it together was a labor of love.

 

Why SmugMug. I checked out many different services, and liked the flexibility to customize, the dark backgrounds (which show photos better, I think), the ease of uploading, the various photo sizes for viewing (especially important for guest viewers who have low connection speeds). And customer support is excellent; got responses to questions almost immediately. And finally, the price was right.

 

If you decide to sign up with SmugMug drop me a note with your email address - I can provide you with a code for $5 off the first year subscription - not much, but you might as well use it if you're going to set up an account. (You can also set up a temp account for two weeks and convert to a real account without losing all your work, which is a plus.)

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If you decide to sign up with SmugMug drop me a note with your email address - I can provide you with a code for $5 off the first year subscription - not much, but you might as well use it if you're going to set up an account. (You can also set up a temp account for two weeks and convert to a real account without losing all your work, which is a plus.)

 

Thanks very much for the offer h2so4. That's very kind and I'll send you a msg when I know what I'm doing. Unfortunately I'm a VERY amateur photographer (I've only just worked out how to use my camera for the very basic shots) so I don't know how valuable my photos will be. They might not be worth sharing! :(

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h2so4,

I just looked at your photos yesterday. I had put it off till closer to my trip. Besides the fact that they are lovely photos, I appreciate learning from them in preparation for my trip. As they say, a picture is worth a thousand words, and in this case, that is certainly true. Thank you again for posting your experiences and your photographs!

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  • 2 months later...

I'm off next week for a few days of sun in BA and then down to Ushuaia to embark on my Quark Expedition's "adventure trip" on the Akademik Shokalskiy.

I have been wanting to do this for years and could not get anyone to go with me. My husband and friends all think I'm nuts. Finally said, "to hell with it -- I'm going alone!"

I already have a feeling this will not be my last + only trip to Antarctica.

 

I want to thank you for posting this blog. Not only did I read every word, but the second time around I took notes! Your packing suggestions were invaluable to me. Who would have thought to use hand warmers for their batteries? Brilliant.

 

I'll post some trip notes when I get home next month. I know there are people who had Qs about the camping/kayaking, and I'm doing both.

I'm getting really excited about this -- (as you probably can tell!)

Although I'm crossing my fingers for a "Drake Lake" !

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  • 1 month later...

Salutations H2so4,

Your name might be vitriolic but your photos are sweet. Wow, what a fantastic slide show! We are booked on a 100 passenger expedition vessel next January and I can guarantee we'll be enjoying your photos many times before we depart. Thank you so much for taking the time to document so thoroughly.

One quick question; We are bringing our own rubber boots. I can't decide if it's worth the extra weight to carry good, solid insulated Wellies or just go with lighter weight, inexpensive flimsy versions. Did you find yourself doing much walking? The better boot might be worth the hassle if the distances are lengthy. Let me know what you think. You are now officially my Antarctica Guru :)

Thanks Erin!

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Thanks for the compliment Maztoz - I think the answer might depend partly on your itinerary. We did all of our long walks in the Falklands and on South Georgia Island. Our longest walk in the Peninsula Region was an uphill climb on Petermann Island, and that was less than a mile, I would guess. What made that walk a bit difficult was the slushy snow.

 

Unless you have a use for good wellies later on, I'd go with the lightweight ones. Wear two pairs of thick socks (or one thick and another one that is more like a liner) when you go to try on your boots. For comfort - both ergonomicly and from any cold that might seep in from the sole of the boots -we used wool felt soles and gel soles. Worked great. If your feet tend to get cold easily, you can take some toe or foot warmers (these are thin, chemical warmers you stick to the bottom of your socks). They don't take up much room in the suitcase (nor in the boot, for that matter).

 

I think the lighter-weight boots will be easier to walk in, and since they are probably cheaper, you can leave them behind (you'll likely not want to bring the boots back after walking around in so much penguin poop).

 

P.S. Who are you booked with?

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