We recently returned from the two-week "Cities of Antiquity and Holy Land" cruise aboard the Viking Jupiter.  The Jupiter, only in service for about a month when we boarded, still had that "new cruise ship" smell -- who knew?  We saw no evidence of its brief and unplanned encounter with the pier in Athens.  This was our fifth Viking Ocean trip, so the ship was very familiar to us.  A few minor tweaks (the main cabin lights can now be dimmed so you don't feel like you're in an operating theater,