ronnyrambler

What is it like?:

Varied! Basse Terre = mountainous, tropical forest, waterfalls, great for hikes, beaches of Grand Anse near Trois Rivieres (black sand) and Grand Anse near Deshaies (golden sand) are lovely, laid back vibe on west side especially. Snorkelling by COusteau Reserve which I enjoyed and turtles easy to see when swimming from Malendure beach. Interesting cultural heritage - I particularly recommend l'Habitation Griveliere, an old plantation at the end of a narrow road deep in a lush valley. Take a tour, eat in the restaurant lower down the valley and taste great coffee. Can rain a lot.

Grand Terre, flatter, north is more cane sugar fields, highlights are Porte d'Enfer nearish to Anse Bertrand (not the one near Moule), beaches like the Caravalle at Sainte Anne (not the main beach), Souffleur at Port Louis, Pointe des Chateaux, MArina at St Francois is nice, restaurant L'Igunae on the Rote de Pointe des Chateaux said to be fantastic. See my other post for Pointe A Pitre.

Probably wouldn't have time on a cruise stop but surrounding islands are worth a visit too.

People sometimes overlook the rivers and these can be lovely if you are willing to hike a little.

Specific to Guadeloupe: rhum agricole (also found in Martinique, Gwoka music, variety (can easily hike, snorkel, visit museums, music events, swim in rivers or sunbathe at beaches).

Pointe-A-Pitre (sometimes Guadeloupe in general) can be a little misunderstood. people are not falling over themselves to help you as this is France and although this island is actually rather poor, people do receive welfare, and also as France is run through a centralised political structure, there is not a very natural entrepreneurial attitude. Locals sometimes are wary of foreigners, as 90 per cent of tourists are French, their one time coloniser turned post colonial governors. Add to this the fact that English is not widely spoken and you will see how a quick pit stop off a cruise ship may not be everything you imagined it would be from the glossy brochures. However, you can meet some lovely people and if I was stopping briefly this is what I would recommend for Pointe A Pitre:

La Darse - the fish market on the edge of the Place de La Victoire where you'll see amazing fish and busy chatty fishermen. You can walk through to the covered market next door, and further into La Place de La Marche for other goods like hand decorated bottle of rhum agricole, schrubb, and punch (spice, fruit, coffee etc too).

PAP also has a lot to offer in terms of architecture. With the help of this book (in French but even non french speakers may find the maps, walk, pictures helpful) 'Pointe-A-Pitre: Musees, Monuments, Promenades' you can take an interesting walk around the historic centre taking in some beautiful examples of creole architecture. Many of these buildings are in a state of degradation but are still interesting to look at. I notice there is a clean up project in the Rue de Vatable part. The art deco cinema in the Place de La Victoire is of interest too. Notice the mural to the left of the Darse - it represents a famous demonstration in the 70s when locals were demonstrating for better pay and the French police shot a number of unarmed people dead. Carry on further along the road and see the gleaming brand new Acte Memorial - the slave museum. It's huge and impressive and seems to be France's way of finding some connection to the history of this island. Some locals think the money would have been better spent elsewhere and when you look around the nearby district of ramshackle houses and streets lined with prostitutes from the Dominican Republic you may see why. Around here you can catch a local bus from the bus station and take the 15 minute ride for 2 euros to Gosier where you will find a nice beach in front of the town. It's generally pretty lively and there are a few beachside restaurants. You can swim or boat over to the tiny little island opposite. Back in Pointe-A-Pitre every Saturday, you can enjoy Gwoka music in a little pedestrianised road. This music, which has its roots in the african heritage of Guadeloupe, was in 2014 placed on the UNESCO list of immaterial heritage, meaning that this is a unique and special cultural form. The singing is often very intense and earthy and can move you to tears or joy in moments. Passers by sometimes feel the rhthym and jump into the circle to dance because as well as singing, and drumming. Gwo Ka also incorporates dance. Finally, over in La Place de La Victoire, is the Comite du Tourisme, a large neo-classical style building once the Chamber of Commerce, where you can pick up some maps, and you can get some advice, probably in English. If you email in advance of your trip you can receive a programme of cultural heritage events and you may be lucky enough to arrive on a day when a guided walk is taking place.

This is France, and this is the Eurozone so paying in dollars would be an odd thing to do! I can't imagine going to Paris and insisting on paying in dollars and would not do that here either.

I hope you can see that there are many things to do without setting foot out of Pointe A Pitre. I recommend the Jardin Secret for lunch in a nice courtyard. PAP can be hot, smelly, busy etc so take it easy, take a walk, notice a few things and try to learn a few things on the way. Enjoy.

Pointe-A-Pitre (sometimes Guadeloupe in general) can be a little misunderstood. people are not falling over themselves to help you as this is France and although this island is actually rather poor, people do receive welfare, and also as France is run through a centralised political structure, there is not a very natural entrepreneurial attitude. Locals sometimes are wary of foreigners, as 90 per cent of tourists are French, their one time coloniser turned post colonial governors. Add to this the fact that English is not widely spoken and you will see how a quick pit stop off a cruise ship may not be everything you imagined it would be from the glossy brochures. However, you can meet some lovely people and if I was stopping briefly this is what I would recommend for Pointe A Pitre:

La Darse - the fish market on the edge of the Place de La Victoire where you'll see amazing fish and busy chatty fishermen. You can walk through to the covered market next door, and further into La Place de La Marche for other goods like hand decorated bottle of rhum agricole, schrubb, and punch (spice, fruit, coffee etc too).

PAP also has a lot to offer in terms of architecture. With the help of this book (in French but even non french speakers may find the maps, walk, pictures helpful) 'Pointe-A-Pitre: Musees, Monuments, Promenades' you can take an interesting walk around the historic centre taking in some beautiful examples of creole architecture. Many of these buildings are in a state of degradation but are still interesting to look at. I notice there is a clean up project in the Rue de Vatable part. The art deco cinema in the Place de La Victoire is of interest too. Notice the mural to the left of the Darse - it represents a famous demonstration in the 70s when locals were demonstrating for better pay and the French police shot a number of unarmed people dead. Carry on further along the road and see the gleaming brand new Acte Memorial - the slave museum. It's huge and impressive and seems to be France's way of finding some connection to the history of this island. Some locals think the money would have been better spent elsewhere and when you look around the nearby district of ramshackle houses and streets lined with prostitutes from the Dominican Republic you may see why. Around here you can catch a local bus from the bus station and take the 15 minute ride for 2 euros to Gosier where you will find a nice beach in front of the town. It's generally pretty lively and there are a few beachside restaurants. You can swim or boat over to the tiny little island opposite. Back in Pointe-A-Pitre every Saturday, you can enjoy Gwoka music in a little pedestrianised road. This music, which has its roots in the african heritage of Guadeloupe, was in 2014 placed on the UNESCO list of immaterial heritage, meaning that this is a unique and special cultural form. The singing is often very intense and earthy and can move you to tears or joy in moments. Passers by sometimes feel the rhthym and jump into the circle to dance because as well as singing, and drumming. Gwo Ka also incorporates dance. Finally, over in La Place de La Victoire, is the Comite du Tourisme, a large neo-classical style building once the Chamber of Commerce, where you can pick up some maps, and you can get some advice, probably in English. If you email in advance of your trip you can receive a programme of cultural heritage events and you may be lucky enough to arrive on a day when a guided walk is taking place.

This is France, and this is the Eurozone so paying in dollars would be an odd thing to do! I can't imagine going to Paris and insisting on paying in dollars and would not do that here either.

I hope you can see that there are many things to do without setting foot out of Pointe A Pitre. I recommend the Jardin Secret for lunch in a nice courtyard. PAP can be hot, smelly, busy etc so take it easy, take a walk, notice a few things and try to learn a few things on the way. Enjoy.