DMPA
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I just came back today from an overnight in Cuba on Empress of the Sea and although we were on bus tours...we were followed very closely by many of the Old Car Taxi's that people had rented. So you can definitely do it on your own. I would suggest that you look at the descriptions of the shore excursion offered and pick and choose where you would like to go and give it to your taxi driver.
Currency Exchange
in Cuba
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Just came back from overnight in Havana on Empress today(10/21) and all of the vendors we met up with were willing to take dollars...but they give you change in CUCU.