spthealien
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Posts posted by spthealien
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Also, for your HEVC files, you might want to check out Adobe Rush. It might work for you.
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4 minutes ago, masterdrago said:
I've been looking at there plans since I bought a new laptop and GoPro. I got there full package of Premier Elements and PhotoShop Elements for $99 for the new laptop. This purchase is also replacing PS6 on the desktop. It is clear to me now that Premiere Elements will not edit HVEC video. I'm an amateur and just cannot justify spending $250/year on their Premiere Pro so I'm looking at the CyberLink PowerDirector which will edit HVEC vids. I'm very curious why one would purchase the $20/yr version of PS or LR when so many other editors do what 99% of the rank and file amateur shooters do. I have a lot of amateur astronomer friends that use PS occasionally but most of what they do is with small specialty applications for stacking images, etc.
Answering this is going to get a little tricky. I can speak from my professional photographer's perspective. It goes beyond being able to edit images...it comes down to editing the images quickly and optimizing a workflow.
When I shoot imagery, it will upload to the CC (cloud) and I can cull remotely. I can do next edits remotely on my mobile devices or anything with a decent web browser. When an edit is done, I can sync across multiple images, do batch processing, and leverage plugins for further editing and exporting.
Now scale that to thousands of images taken in a weekend.
That's a very high level view, but it's because Adobe software is a standard that many others develop for and it has really become a critical part of many photographer's workflow.
That being said, your workflow is your own and you'll do what works for you. I remember when I used to be able to go my edits on free software that Google provided over a decade and a half ago (who remembers Picasa?). But it never scaled well, so as my work and clients grew, I needed to change my software.
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Yeah...I am hearing that it might actually be a test. The problem is my current plan IS the 1TB plan...and it's not $20...but now it is.
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And just like that...Adobe ended the $10 Photographer's Plan.
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I am not sure how many use the Adobe $9.99 Photography Plan (20 GB)...they have ended that and are now bringing it to 1TB and increasing the price to $20. The 1TB plan used to be $14.99, I believe.
There's still a $9.99 plan--but it's only for Lightroom CC. Not even LR Classic.
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I'll assume that your exposures are all going to be pretty quick (plenty of light) so your exposures don't push past 2 seconds. Assuming that you're shooting for 24 frames per second, you'll have several minutes worth of imagery to isolate the actual video of interest.
Here's a VERY RAW timelapse I did (some of which was shot from my balcony). I just uploaded it for the sake of sharing what balcony time lapses might look like.
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I share the same sentiment as you with regards to editing a copy. I hate having to edit a large-sized uncompressed TIFF file the moment I want to invoke a plugin like that. If it can work like a layer--that would be great. But something about modifying the TIFF (thereby increasing the demand on my storage by multiple magnitudes) and NOT being able to sync the edits across all my other files really discourages me from using these plugins. I like the Luminar set, though--but if it could coexist in a more transparent form, that would be excellent.
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55 minutes ago, Docker123 said:
I usually have ISO set on Auto. However, I also set an upper limit of 800, which I adjust if poor light conditions. Typically using aperture priority.
I found simple auto could give me huge numbers, and grainier than the Sahara Desert.
Again the caution on polarising — practise, practise, practise. Sort out your adjustments in order to get enough light. Remember that they can take out reflections, but reflections may “make” your image. Etc, ad nauseum
Enjoy.
I totally agree with setting an upper limit. If your camera allows, you can also set a minimum shutter speed to coincide with that ISO. For instance, on the a7RII, you could tell it that you wanted it to have a minimum shutter speed of 1/60th and it would change the ISO relative to that.
On the 1" sensor cameras, I would top off at 800 as well--if I was printing it large, I would probably drop that down even. On the full frame cameras, I could bring that up to 3200 or even 6400 depending on the subject.
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Also--when you are seeing the images lacking "pop" are you on your computer or on a mobile device?
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2 minutes ago, vermonter16 said:
So do you think I can achieve much the same effect without the polarizing filter? I have been playing with shooting in jpg and RAW though RAW takes up so much space and to be honest, I'm not at the RAW level at this point. I also have been shooting Extra Fine for just convenience as well. My husband says to get it because I'll have it for glaciers and such, etc. But, I'm still on the fence. I have the X4 UV filter from Breakthrough and would get the polarizer from them as well if I do get it.
It will be tough to get the CPL effect without the CPL, as it actually works with optical physics which, in most instances, is tough to do with software. However...a CPL isn't critical for pictures that "pop." In some situations, a CPL can actually skew the colors too much and remove sharpness. Wise choice with the brand--this is what I would recommend: https://breakthrough.photography/products/x4-circular-polarizer?variant=31547348881?rfsn=722215.a4df84 but make sure you get it for the RX10's diameter. The filters they make tend to have the best control on color shifting.
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12 hours ago, vermonter16 said:
So, I've been using my camera like mad when I have time. After always shooting in auto my whole life I now adjust my aperture and shutter speed depending on what I'm shooting. I don't know specifically the ins and outs of aperture, etc but I adjust it based on the outside light. I took a few good photos of a bluebird the other day...and thought they should have been brilliant but the color of them didn't quite 'pop' if you know what I mean. I was thinking of getting a circular polarizing filter to use at times. Thoughts? Again, I have been putting myself through my own bootcamp of sorts and taking a ton of photos and then looking at what I like about each one and don't like and what I need to do to improve.
Good to hear you're getting your bearings on the Aperture and Shutter modes. I also like to set my ISO on Auto--which many may scoff at--but I trust my gear when I shoot.
While a circular polarizer can be a rather useful tool, I would agree with checking your picture profile setting (Vivid, for instance. Remember that these only affect the JPEG file--so if you shoot RAW, you're still going to get the fairly flat profile. If you are reviewing your images on your computer and notice that they lack the "pop"--confirm that you are looking at the JPG file, rather than the ARW file. No matter how saturated and vivid the JPG picture profile--your ARW (RAW) file will always look flat...to maximize the dynamic range and allow for a better baseline for further editing.
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25 minutes ago, Heidi13 said:
In addition to being prohibited by the cruise line you would need to check the laws of each country you are visiting.
Absolutely. Check the areas you want to fly in to be sure that you can legally in that country. But it sounds like it might be a non starter, if NCL won't allow that on board.
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13 hours ago, vermonter16 said:
Speaking of memory cards. I have my Sony RX10 III that I recently purchased. I have a single SANDISK Extreme Pro 64GB card. I was at Costco today and they had a pack of 2 - 128 Extreme MicroSD cards with adaptors for $39.99. Should I or should I not go back and purchase these? I know some people don't like the adaptors and I know that these aren't the extreme pro, but that's a pretty good price for that kind of storage. Thanks.
The adapters that Sandisk includes are passive wiring adapters--so it should not affect speed on the UHS-I microSD cards, which is the speed that the RX10 maxes out at, anyway. The older generic adapters tended to warp and get stuck in the card readers/cameras--but I haven't had that issue using any of the adapters I've come across over the past several years.
That being said, picking up the microSD card really does come down to what your copying/archiving/viewing workflow is. Some laptops have built-in microSD card readers ONLY (Dell XPS 13, for instance) so copying files while you're on a cruise, for instance, would require a dongle to view those files if you have full-sized SD cards. That being said, when I have a bunch of 4k video from my drones and I'm copying them to my computer, I always freak out when I drop the microSD cards and they get lose under things on my desk or floor.-
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3 minutes ago, PurpleHays said:
The dunes look surreal.
The dunes are fantastic and despite me going there on a regular basis (you'll see them all the time on my Instagram feed), they still amaze me. Sunset and sunrise at the dunes are one of my favorite things to see.
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The Sony RX10iii or RX10iv. 1" sensor and a 24-600mm lens.
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Just now, kenevenpar said:
Very Cool!
Where?
Thanks!
These are dunes along the southern California and Arizona border--about 2 hours east of San Diego and half an hour west of Yuma. -
Took a group camping over the weekend and grabbed some shots from the air.
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3 hours ago, dileep said:
Panasonic Lumix FZ1000 in intelligent Auto mode.
f/4 1/640 sec ISO-125
You're in my neck of the woods! Awesome!
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I agree. Nothing spoils public perspective on drones like the set of those who don't have proper training and end up doing something ridiculous.
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1 minute ago, Docker123 said:
As you mention local laws,...
Australia is introducing a pilot licensing scheme and drone registration from July. Will apply to drones over 250gms (about 1/2 pound), commercial or recreational.
https://ia.acs.org.au/article/2019/you-ll-need-a-drone-licence-from-july.html
The US has drone registration, as well, for the drones (pretty much DJI Spark and heavier). For those traveling to Australia, I wonder what tourist requirements will be.
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Sure thing! Put a bunch of hours on that RX10 before you leave. Test it out on fast moving subjects and learn how to nail your shots. More experience won't ever hurt you. Make sure your card is fast (UHS-I U3 card).
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1 hour ago, vermonter16 said:
Hey spthealien, I've got a question for you since you seem to be pretty fluent in photography. My husband wanted me to get a new camera specifically for our Alaskan cruise....I am super practical so of course I thought it was ridiculous but - why not get back into photography. I could have gone with the RX10 IV if I had chosen but I felt overall that I just didn't need it for my purposes. I have my III and I'm going to stick with it....but I am a little concerned as to some threads I've read about people using it for whale watching saying they would have gone with the IV over the III....which I get - but certainly I can still get great shots with the III, right? I suppose I am second guessing myself at this point. I had a very old Rebel when they first became digital and was able to take some pretty great whale photos so surely I can do that with the III and I didn't need to go to the IV right?....not just for that....
Honestly, you'll be fine with your III. However, I would suggest getting used to get focus fast. The IV can focus quicker--and it even has a touch screen for tracking and focus--so I can see how some can prefer the fast AF for whales (and other fast moving subjects that hide and then resurface). If you are whale watching, you are likely out in bright sun and might be shooting at f/8 and above anyway--so if you have a hair trigger--you should be able to get the whales sharp anyway. It all comes down to knowing your gear and experience.
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Here are just a few of the things I took over the last 2 weeks.
Adobe Photography Plan now $20
in Photo & Camera Discussions
Posted
Oh man--I hope I don't come off as that guy from that movie. Yikes.
But for sure, if you have inexpensive software that can do the job you want--by all means. There's plenty of stuff out there that actually do a really great job. In fact, my most popular workshop that I teach is the Mobile Photography Workflow (I'm actually working on a customized one for a local camera shop right now). In that class, I talk about various mobile software--some that range from free all the way to the CC stuff that Adobe sells (the article that kicked off this class: https://alphauniverse.com/stories/completely-mobile/)