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AngloinProvence

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Posts posted by AngloinProvence

  1. I've been to Hyeres. It's a really nice place to explore, with a hilly, pretty Old Town and an elegant, 19th century quarter that grew up when Hyeres was a winter tourist destination for the likes of Queen Victoria and Leo Tolstoy. No big headline sights, but some gorgeous architecture from all centuries and four "jardins remarquables" (outstanding gardens and parks). It's fairly easy to get to by train or bus from Toulon. More info: http://www.marvellous-provence.com/other-places/towns/hyeres/town-guide

  2. It's true that things are kind of quiet on Sundays. Both Marseille and Aix have tried to push Sunday opening for shops, but many stores found it insufficiently lucrative and have pulled out. A number of restaurants (though by no means all) close on Sundays too.

     

    However, if shopping is your thing, the massive new Terrasses du Port mall is open on Sundays --it's fairly close to the Marseille cruise terminals. Don't miss the panoramic roof terrace where you can have a drink or meal, or simply stroll around.

     

    The newly opened Les Docks shopping complex (in the same area) is also open Sundays. Unlike Les Terrasses, which is mainly international franchises, it focusses on local shops and restaurants. The decor is stunning. More about shopping in Marseille http://www.marvellous-provence.com/marseille/practical-information/shopping

     

    If you like museums and galleries, you're spoiled for choice. The brilliant Museum of History is free every Sunday morning and all museums (except private ones) are free on the first Sunday of the month.

  3. I like Toulon a lot. It's a big naval city, vibrant and very much rough and ready - not one of those picture-postcard Provence destinations. But it still has quite a lot to offer.

     

    The beaches are exceptional and there's a very big street market. The Old Town is scruffy but is currently getting a massive facelift. The naval museum and base, as noted by others, are fascinating (I found them much more so than I'd expected, to be honest!)

     

    The cable car up to Mont Faron is a stunning ride (in summer: it doesn't run in mid-winter or on windy days). There are no real attractions at the top: the zoo is awful and the museum dedicated to the Allied landings in Provence is now closed for big renovations (it should be brilliant when finished - on a par with all the memorials to the Allied landings in Normandy). But nice for a picnic or short hike. More about what to see in Toulon: http://www.marvellous-provence.com/toulon

  4. Just to comment on a previous post about the petit train (little tourist train): it's not a fully HOHO operation. There are two routes, both leaving from the north side of the Old Port (the quai du Port).

     

    One goes round the Old Town (Panier) and one goes up to Notre Dame de la Garde. In both cases there is just one place on the route where you can hop on or off: the Vieille Charite and Notre Dame respectively. You buy tickets at the kiosk - I don't think it's bookable in advance. Note that the Panier route does not run in winter.

     

    A public bus (no. 60) runs up the Notre Dame from the MuCEM and the Old Port and is a cheaper option. More about how to get around Marseille: http://www.marvellous-provence.com/marseille/practical-information/how-to-get-around

  5. The calanques won't be closed for the season! They are a National Park and a natural site and as such are open all year round. Actually the only time they ARE sometimes closed is in the middle of summer when it's hot and windy and there is a fire risk. The weather in November is the deciding factor. There can be very mild and fine days in Provence at that time of year --- if you're lucky, of course... http://www.marvellous-provence.com/other-places/sights-and-attractions/calanques

  6. Most locals here take the bus shuttle not the train. The TER trains are slow, unreliable (often on strike) and at times susceptible to crime. The bus takes around the same time, apart from during rush hours, is very reliable and runs every five minutes. The bus station is close to the Aix central train station.

     

    At the Marseille end, the train and bus stations are adjacent. As I previously posted, the walk from the Old Port to the station is about 15 minutes, but it's all uphill. The climb at the end is quite steep, so I recommend the metro or a taxi.

     

    Senior rail fares are available for the over 60s. You don't have to be French. Be advised that there are two Senior tariffs. The cheaper one is for people who have previously bought a Senior + card, so you need to go for the higher fare.

  7. Big towns such as Aix, Marseille, Avignon and Toulon should all have celebrations for Bastille Day. However the main event in all cases is likely to be fireworks - and these won't start till after dark, i.e. after 10pm at the earliest. Avignon's theatre festival will be in full swing, as will the classical music festival in Aix. For daytime events, Avignon is probably the better bet.

  8. Depends on your personal taste. The scenery around Cassis is more spectacular and Cassis itself is a charming (though very touristy) coastal fishing village. Aix is inland and a stunning and elegant medium-sized historic city.

     

    No-one has mentioned the wines. Cassis is renowned for its crisp, lemony white wines, which are rarely available outside the area (it's a very small appellation). Bandol is famed for its reds.

     

    The Aix wines, on the other hand, are overwhelmingly roses and much less special (although very tasty and drinkable on a hot day!) So, if you're a wine buff, I would definitely take the Cassis tour.

  9. Yes, the free shuttle is definitely running, though not every day, especially outside the main season: I checked this with the Port Authority at Marseille's Top Cruise travel industry convention in November.

     

    The aim of the subsidised free shuttle service, obviously, is to encourage cruisers to stay (and spend money!) in Marseille and not hurtle off instead on an excursion to Aix or Cassis.

     

    Obviously it's much in demand, so seats can sometimes be in short supply. Your cruise company will not tell you about it because it wants you to take its own paid-for shuttle or shore excursion instead (I've even heard stories that cruise staff are specifically instructed to keep quiet about it or even deny its existence!) More about Marseille's cruise port: http://www.marvellous-provence.com/marseille/practical-information/cruise-ship-port

  10. I visited the cruise terminals in Toulon and La Seyne last October. La Seyne has Europcar and Avis offices and there's a taxi rank (whether there will be any taxis there is another matter!) Local cab company is Taxis Seynois. Tel (+33) 4 94 10 10 20 -- though you'll probably need to speak to them in French! There's also a bike hire stand if you're feeling energetic and various other onward travel options. More info here: http://www.marvellous-provence.com/travel/water/toulon-cruise-ship-ports

  11. There are two cruise terminals in Toulon. One is in the centre of town while the other is across the bay in La Seyne sur Mer (although it seems often to be flagged as Toulon in the cruise holiday brochures).

     

    To make things even more confusing, some cruise routes stop in Toulon on certain dates and in La Seyne on others! But if you arrive in La Seyne there are plenty of transport options to get to Toulon and beyond.

     

    More about the two cruise ship ports which I visited in October. http://www.marvellous-provence.com/travel/water/toulon-cruise-ship-ports

  12. Yes, you can get off the petit train at Notre Dame and pick up a later one to go back down to the Old Port. There's just the one stop - it's not really a full HOHO type set-up.

     

    Same applies to the petit train that goes round the Old Town (which runsin summer only). There's one stop at the Vieille Charite where you can get off to look around.

  13. Yes, there is an elevator - it was installed quite recently. You don't need to climb any steps at all to go inside Notre Dame. Go up the little hill behind the places reserved for disabled parking near the bus-stop - it's a short climb, but up a gentle slope, not steps. Then, using the elevator, you can go inside the church and up to the panoramic terrace.

  14. I much enjoyed the Maritime Museum (Musee de la Marine), against my expectations! Also recommend the cable car ride. A number of attractions close in winter, eg the cable car, the little train tours of the naval base and (in January) the Maritime Museum. There's more information about what to do in Toulon here: http://www.marvellous-provence.com/toulon

     

    Some people seemed confused about where the ships dock -- there are two cruise terminals, one right in the heart of Toulon and one across the bay in La Seyne sur Mer. The larger ships tend to go to La Seyne, but it's not always entirely consistent: some cruises go to Toulon on certain dates and La Seyne on others! So always best to check with the cruise operator.

     

    Even if you end up in La Seyne, there's a real effort to offer good transport connections. More information about the two cruise ports here: http://www.marvellous-provence.com/toulon/practical-information/cruise-ship-ports

  15. The Miramar on the Old Port is even more expensive (65 Euros a head last time I looked) and to my mind is a stuffy and atmosphere-free tourist trap. I haven't eaten at Chez Fonfon but it's a lovely setting and very popular with locals (though further from the cruise ship terminals).

     

    As I think some one has said, it's usual to order bouillabaisse for at least two people (and many restaurants also require it to be ordered 24 hours ahead), so the others in your party could order something different.

     

    The Bouillabaisse Charter is a little bit of a gimmick in my eyes, but it does assure a certain level of quality. More about bouillabaisse: http://www.marvellous-provence.com/gastronomy/food/bouillabaisse-of-marseille

  16. I would stay in Marseille and have lunch in the very pretty Vallon de Auffes which has a Michelin-starred restaurant and two other good ones. http://www.marvellous-provence.com/marseille/what-to-see/vallon-des-auffes

     

    Or take the boat shuttle to the Island and Ratonneau (it's one of the Frioul Islands near the Chateau d'If) and have lunch on the harbour there. Aix doesn't have a Roman theatre, BTW. Actually it's surprisingly short of Roman remains altogether apart from the remnants of the baths.

  17. How extremely disappointing to see people on this forum still advising visitors to skip Marseille. There are a huge number of things to see in this beautiful city, which has received a major facelift in 2013 as part of the European Capital of Culture programme.

     

    This is not a picturesque Provence hill village, of course, but a colourful, vibrant, multi-cultural port, which requires and deserves to be explored and enjoyed on its own terms. The setting is beautiful in my personal, admittedly not very objective opinion, with such sights as the MuCEM, Notre Dame, the Old Port and the Old Town.

     

    It remains a total mystery to me that a day-trip visitor with limited time in port would consider spending most of his/her precious few hours - not to mention plenty of dollars - rushing on up to Avignon or Cassis (which are certainly very lovely - check them out on another trip when you have more time) when there's something so worthwhile and interesting right on the doorstep.

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