Just returned Millennium Oct 5-17

We just returned from a wonderful Med cruise with picture perfect weather each day. The ports were Barcelona, Villefranche, Livorno , Civitavecchia, Naples, Santorini, Dubrovnik, and Venice.

DH is 60 and I am a young 57-we are fit and active. We are seasoned travelers who research not only the sites to see, but also the customs and at least the "polite " words in the local language so that we can experience as much of the local culture and spirit of the places we visit. We have traveled to the Germatic language countries on land but this was our first trip to this part of Europe. Our philosophy of travel does not suit everyone, and it takes alot of planning--If you want to attempt to be a traveler, not a tourist here's what we did.

BTW--I'm a bit jetlagged, please forgive typos and spelling--I'll do my best!!

BARCELONA- We had a non-stop flight from Phila to BCN and landed at around 7am Oct 3. Our plane could not land at the terminal, we were bussed over from a cargo area to the main terminal to claim our luggage. The big advantage that we had is that we were possibly the first plane in, the airport is fairly small and the luggage claim and finding the exit was simple. We had three pieces of luggage--a 29 inch rolling case (48.5 lbs--close!!!), a rolling garment bag (37 lbs), and a small rolling case (23lbs) along with a carryon backpack. We walked out of the terminal and hopped right on the areobus and got off at Placa del Catalunya--about a 30 min drive. The driver told us when to get off, but its pretty obvious. We asked for directions to the Rambles and went rolling on our way.

We had booked a room at the Jardi in the Barri Gothic with a rooftop terrace over a year ago. This hotel is in a little square inside the Barri in the pedrestrian area. The luggage was heavy but we were rolling down hill and at that early hour the Rambles was empty. I had memorized the map of the area and knew the way to the hotel, soon we came to a side alley--and then a tiny alley that led to the hotel. We checked in at 9am, the room was ready by 11. We left the luggage at the hotel and set out to explore.

Barcelona is amazing. I had done alot of research and knew what we wanted to see and how to get around. We walked down the Rambles to the matket and got something to eat--it was not crowded this early and they were just getting things put out. We then walked down to the sea and back up through Placa Riell (beautiful) and wond our way to the Gothic Cathedral. IT is worth it to go on the roof--amazing views, the cloister (with the 13 geese) is peaceful.

After checking in our room we went to Cartes Ingles for wine and stopped onthe way back in one of the tiny tapas places in the walkways. DH had forgotten to pack Advil so we had the neat experience of going to a pharmacy and getting some pain meds for our old and creeky bones.

The church in our square was having a concert that night with a master of the Spanish guitar--no time for jet lag--this was one of those once in a lifetime experiences. HINT: If you have a chance go to a local concert--this was 10 euros and we felt like we belonged. After the concert we sat on our rooftop terrace and has some wine and cheese, then to bed.

The next day we had cafe and chocolate (and rolls) in a little place up the alley and then took the metro to Parc Geull. From the park we saw the Milli in the distance. Then we metroed and took the finicular to Monjuicc to see the Olympic complex (our trainer was on the team and for years NO PAIN -NO SPAIN was our mantra). Then we hiked to the castle (a bus would have made more sense) and the view of the port was unbeatable. After sangria and sandwiches at the castle we took the cable car down halfway which dropped us near the Columbus statue. Nice views but the cost and wait were probably not worth it. We met some cruise critics for dinner.

The next day we checked out, left our luggage at the hotel and walked the block of discord, taking a tour of Casa Mila and then walking to the Sagrada. We metroed back to Corts Ingles to get wine and Mt Dew for the ship, then the hotel called us a cab to take us to port. Driving through the Barri was an experience--but soon we were at the ship and with no lines were quickly aboard.

Nice to knows:

Use a money belt or a very complicated safe place to carry money. Our hotel did warn us about pickpockets. I have a Healthy Back bag -I put money in the inside zipper pocket, my camera in the bag--I then zip the bag and clip it with a big safety pin, letting my hand rest on the zipper when I walk. I discovered this method since I ride the subways of NYC often. I had a credit card and copies of our passports in a moneybag arounfd my waist (its really just a tiny bag on a string). DH carries little money in his front pocket--only enough that we would be willing to lose.

The hop-on hop-off bus gives an easy overveiw of the city if you are exhausted (we did not do this)

If you are interested in museums there is a museum pass that lets you skip the lines, I don't have the details but any TI office would help you.

Our hotel was perfect for us--96v euros for a room with a very large rooftop terrace that had table and chairs. This is a very basic spottlessly clean hotel that is very popular with non- American tourists so you have to book early. There is no doorman, you must carry your luggage up 24 steps to get to the desk and elevator--but the location is wonderful.

Villefranche-We had planned to see what the weather would be like before deciding what to do. The day was perfect--we tendered off (no waiting) and easily walked to the train station only to find that we had missed the train by about 10 min. We waited for the next train (they run every hour) and get on to go to Eze. The train is spotless and after 15 min we get off at Eze sur Mer. We follow a small group og hardy independant cruisers to the bus station to find a group of people who had taken the first train still waiting for bus 83--which comes in about 5 min. We ride to Eze, get a map from the TI and start wandering to the top. Its not crowded and is magical. At the Jardin Exotique there is admission, but if you are a group of ten or more you get in half price. We join a group of German and British tourists and get in for half price. The gardens are a surprise, just beautiful with magical Earth Children sculptures and poetry. The views are beyond description. On the way back through town we stop into one of the most beautiful little chapels that I have ever seem.

Then we hike down the Nietzke path to the sea. This was one of the highlights of the trip for me, but WARNING!!!! This is a real mountain hike. It is a good idea to have boots or shoes with tread, and to realize that this is a hike--not a manicured path. It lets you off right by the train station, we took our time (and tons of pictures) and it took about an hour. We met several locals climbing up--no wonder French women don't get fat!!!

Because the day was so perfect we went back to the ship to get bathing suits (do not wear them on the street!!!!) and walked to the beach. We realxed and swam in the deep blue waters of the Cote D'Azur. Then we walked through the old town and returned to the ship.

Nice to knows:

It is very easy to get to Nice-Eze-Monte-Carlo by train. You can do as much or as little as you want, most people crammed in the big three above, we hiked and swam in the sea. For us this was the right choice because this is a very port intensive cruise and we wanted an easy day. We were the only cruise passengers on the beach, which is topless by the way--as are most of the beaches in Europe. This is the place to buy lavender and herbs de Provence--the shops in the old village are nice to explore.

A very clean very safe port of call.

Livorno-We booked a guide through Claudio and had Fabrizio for our driver. He was fantastic and I would recommend that you request him. We were a group of eight that met on the rollcall. I booked a guide for this port because I wanted to climb the Tower of Pisa and see the David in Florence and thought that it would be hard to do both on our own.

We were on our way by 8:15 and in Pisa shortly before 9. We were able to get tickets for the 9am climb. This is definately worth it. Did you know that the tower leans? Well you know it when you climb and definately can tell when you are at the top!!! Did you know that its a bell tower? Well when you are at the top taking artsy close up pictures of the bells and they start to ring you can really tell!!!

The tour of Florence was perfect. First we went to see a view of Florence, then we had pre-reserved tickets for the Accademia. The David is more impressive than you can imagine. Then we saw Michelangelos tomb (and Dantes) in a beautiful church and had lunch in a wonderful small trattoria. We saw the Duomo with the dome and the Baptisry doors. Then we drove to the area of the market by the bridge and I went to see the square where they had the bomfire of the Vanities with its famous statues.

We were back to the ship around 5.

Nice to knows:

If this is your first visit you may want to get a guide instead of trying to take the train, unless you just want to go to Florence or one of the other small towns. Be careful of your belongings, the streets and squares were crowded even though this was off season and a Sunday. In the market there were beautiful scarves, shawls, ties and of course leather goods at decent prices. I did not see as nice a selection anywhere else.

Civitacchia- This was the only disappointing experience of the entire trip. Over a year in advance I had booked with Claudio for Florence and Rome--as had another cruise critic group of 16 people (we formed a group of eight). I had asked about who would be our guides and we had Fabrizio for Florence (WONDERFUL!!!) and Claudio himself for Rome. This was confirmed two days before we left. I know that the other cc group was to have Claudio in Florence. Fabrizio warned us that something was wrong with Claudios van and we probably would not get him in Rome. Whe we were met in the morning by Roberto we were told that Claudio was sick (this is what the other cc group was told in Florence), but we were not worried.

I had discussed with Claudio when I booked that we were very interested in ancient Rome and going into the Clolesium and walking the Forum were important to us. He assured me that this was possible and that if we hired a private guide for the Vatican museums we could fit everything in.

Well--apparently Roberto didn't get the memo because he had his own agenda which was driving the car --letting us jump out to take a picture, or just speeding by like in that film commercial.

We did go into the Colesium, and walked back to the car (the forum was right there across the street!!!)drove through traffic to overlook the forum and were told there was no time to go in. We had a mutiny and went anyway.

Lunch was bad and expensive--we told him we wanted simple.

The Pantheon was impressive as was the risen Christ, but by this time there was tension and hard feelings.

Next the VATICAN FIASCO. I was under the impression that one of the perks of an additional 120 euros for a guide was you stood in a smaller private guide line--WRONG!!! So we pass the line to the Museum and park on a side street to call our guide. Then we drive back to the line (why didn't we get in line and wait for the guide?) and when we get in line we are told to get out of line to wait for the guide. So we wait --line is getting longer--clock is ticking--and finally he shows up. The 15 min line takes 45 min but we are finally there. Our guide goes to get tickets charging us 13 euros instead of 12 and seems annoyed by our very existence. He crawls though the museum--won't let one of our group stop to buy a promised rosary and if you ask a question he gets mad. Then in the museum he meets a man and major money is exchanged--seems a tad fishy. We are more than testy and are beginning to get worried about time to get back to the ship--and every time we take off he drags us back--ok so I saw the Sistine chapel--but didn't enjoy it. When we leave the Vatican he asks to be paid--we pay him. I find out where my friend can buy her rosary--which makes Roberto mad.

He keeps saying we're really really late. We get back to the ship between 5:30 and 5:45 for a 7 sailing.

Then he asks to be paid for both him and the Vatican guide. We tell him we paid the Vatican guide and he starts yelling--then he calls someone and is yelling on the phone while we stand there. Then he says that the guy is a crook because he had been paid in advance--not our problem!!!

When I looked at my pictures that night I realized that we did see alot, but the whole experience left a bad impression of Rome and of Claudio--he should know who he hires and what kind of people they are.

The other group had a wonder guide and a wonderful time.

Nice to knows:

It is too big to do in a day--you should pick what you want to see and enjoy it rather than frantically running from sight to sight. My first instinct was to take the train, follow the advice I read on this board and not plan to see the Sistine Chapel. The Vatican was mobbed and even on our own would not have been pleasant. I don't see any reason to hire a guide for the museum, you can read and take a guided walk from Rick Steves, Eyewitness or any number of guidebooks. I think they may have head sets. Be very very specific when you book a private guide about who your guide will be and avoid Roberto. He was not friendly and listened to talk radio (in Italian of course) the whole time he was driving.

Naples--THE BIGGEST SURPRISE--I LOVED IT!!!!! After the Rome experience I definately had some Italy hostility. We love history and had decided to sacrafice the Amalfie or Capri in favor of going to Pompeii alone. I had research the Artcard and the Tripadvisor local expert said that it was a great deal. We went into the cruise terminal early and the girl at the info desk didn't know where to buy one, but told us to go to the TI in the castel across the street--who also knew that you might get them at the main train station but weren't sure. So we gave up and did the easy thing--we went to the tobacco stand across from the ship, bought an all day ticket, took tram #1 to the train station (people told where to get off and where to go in) and saw that the train to Sorrento was leaving in 4 min!!! We get on the train and there is an announcement. Everyone jumps off--as do we. We meet a couple of twirpy Brits who are loudly complaining that no one speaks English (see its not only Americans!)--I ask in my very fractured Italian for the train to Sorrento and the station official points to the train we just got off. The Britts are saying no its not and DH is standing there with a deer in the headlights look on his face. I get on the train, he stands there --not moving. The whistle blows, the doors start to close and I start to get off and they close on me!!!. I have a picture of the warning on the train with a person half in and half out--that would be me!!!! The train pulls away with the Britts yelling that they can't believe that it left us standing there. I go back to the official who is highly amused and again ask for the train to Sorrento. He tells me track 5--I count on my fingers and he nods yes--I turn and glare at my husband and then look at the official and shrug my shoulders. He starts to laugh and pats me on the back. This is exactly when I fell in love with Naples--it has a sense of humor.

In 10 min we are on a train--(all body parts accounted for) and shortly we exit at Pompeii Scavi. We enter and try to follow the map, our overlay book and the Rick Steves walking tour. Soon we just start to wander away from the tourists. When you get away from the crowds you can feel Pompeii, if you are quiet and listen carefully you can hear the hustle and bustle of the city--you almost feel that you have to be careful as you cross the street because you might get run over by one of those crazy Pompeii chariot drivers.

It was wonderful, we walked out past the "burbs" by the "swim club" to the Amphitheater--then out of the ruins and back to the train. It was only shortly after noon so we stopped at Herculanium. DO NOT MISS THIS if you like history. The town was covered with mud onstead of ash and was completely preserved. The frescos and glass mosaics are beyond description. Unlike Pompeii this was a seaside resort--think Rehoboth Beach Roman style. There is a feeling of calmness here but it is almost spookier--as if the people just left yesterday... The fact that they went down to the sea when they saw rescue ships--only to be ignored as the ships continued to Pompeii is sad.

Back to Naples I had a quest to find De Micheles pizza in old Napoli. We walked through the old part of town from the main train station and found it fairly easily. There is a small line with people standing with numbers--not a tourist in sight!!! I ask a woman how to get a number and she calls someone over to get us a number--thank goodness its 40 and we can sort of know when we're called. We get an official pizza Marguarita and we eat eat the whole thing. Then as we're walking back to the ship we stop in a tiny store and buy local wine and cheese.

This part of Naples gritty and full of life and laughter. Its noisy and not for the faint of heart. Do not carry accessable valuable with you--walk with confidence like you know what you are doing. Crossing the street like a local is the most fun I've had in years! You need to read the traffic like a surfer reads the waves, then put your head up and walk at a steady rate. Do not make eye contact, do not change you pace of lose your courage--they judge your speed and unlike in NYC they don't hit yoy. Of course DH claimed that I was just tempting fate and if I lived there my luck would run out. Traffic and parking is crazy. The sidewalks are filled with scooters and Smartcars.

As we see the ship DH has had enough but I want to see the Galeria Umberto--so Icontinue oast the ferry docks and cross the street (again--any excuse for an adrenaline rush) to make my way over there.

This is a different Naples--more sophisticated and quiet. The Galleria is a few blocks from the ship and I would say don't miss it. The glass work and mosaic floor are amazing. Across the square, a bit of expresso and I'm on my way back to the ship singing the Funicula song.

Nice to knows:

Decide what is important to you. Our friends took the Amalfie drive--loved the Cameostop and the Pottery and felt that an hour at Pompeii was a rip off and a waste of time. It was crystle clear and we were tempted to climb Vesuvius. Othere people just took ferries to Capri or Sorrento.

Read about and watch travel programs about Naples before you decide to dive in. There is a hop on hop off bus. The day we were there the museums were closed, I would have loved to see the veiled Christ.

Our friends were with a group and the guide did not show up--they just picked up a taxi tour at the dock and it was fine except for some unpleasantness at the end about payment.

Well I'm tired and have wash to do--I'll continue the saga later. Feel free to ask questions.

Just wonderful..................I can almost see what you saw. Thank you for being so discriptive..............keep the text coming. This reads like a travel novel.:D

Linda, I agree with Travelteam I feel like I was there! I have only been to Barcelona but you made me relive everything. You really should think of submitting this to a travel magazine. Glad to have you back.

Dianne

The saga continues...

Messina Straits--Our daily mentioned that around 6 am we would be going through the Messina Straits. I woke up to see lights from our balcony (we always leave the windows open) and fortunately I got up. I was curious and went on deck to see how narrow it was (DH was thrilled by this). Then I went down and watched as we sailed through and saw a bright line of red with red stuff at the top, through the binoculars it sure looked like sparks flying up. Got DH up (really thrilled by now) and we tried to remember our geography and where the active volcanos were. Turns out this was an active volcano--Mt Etna we think. We saw it by sheer luck--it was never mentioned that we could see a volcano.

Athens--We approach before dawn (one disadvantage to sailing in October) and I go up on deck to see if I can see the Acropolis lit up--I have super zoom potential on my camera and thought I might get a picture, but can see nothing. We watch as the Jewel slides in beside us--an amazing sight to see a huge ship get into a tiny parking place. We have planned on going to Athens on our own and I've printed the directions to the Metro from the Portreviews website. We walk around the harbor beside all the ferry docks looking for the intersection pictured in the report. We get to the end of the harbor--turns out that those buildings aren't there anymore. I ask directions (well I say Metro??? and look puzzeled) and we are pointed in the right direction. The train station does match the pictures, we buy our tickets and can't make a mistake because this is the end of the line. On the train there is an older Greek gentleman trying to help tourists with their Greek language (you know --the polite words) We decide to try to change traind to get to Acropolli- and only make one mistake because our map is in Greek Greek with only Greek letters. This brings us to the back of the Acropolis, we walk around and climb to the top. When we get up there there is a band and some secret service men--it is liberation day and the president of Greece is having a ceromony at the flag, we see his car and get pictures of the Greek guards. Its really crowded as we enter, but one you get in it is huge. We walk around, not quite believing that we're really here. There are people with whistles that they blow when someone gets close to the marble or tries to pick something up.

Words cannot describe the spirit of this place, you can tell that it is home to the Gods. Atheanas gift of the olive trees do feel like a gift from someone special. There are pieces in the museum that are 600 BC, and the stones at the base of the Maidens are part of the Minoan foundation 1400BC.

We relucktantly leave the Acropolis and walk down through the Agora--these are the same places that Socrates walked and taught. There are too many wonderful temples and monuments to describe, but the whole area has a sense of peace and--well a feeling that this is a sacred site of learning and wisdom. Then we need to find gyros in the plaka at a place that has the meat spinning on a stick. We find one and they are wonderful--just as expected. We wander around the Platka before making our way back to theship.

Nice to knows:

The metro is easy to use, clean and safe and 70cents each way. The walk to the metro takes about 20 min--and may be far for some people, but it is easy along the harbor. It is probably easier to just get off at Monastrati instead of changing trains. The Pltka is crowded and like a flea market.

Our waiter warned our friends against getting a taxi at the port--they walked a bit away from the port and got a taxi--guide for $100 euros for four of them for all day.

Santorini--What can I say? Its where the lost city of Atlantis lies beneath the sea. You can feel that this place has a very special soul the moment you sail in.

I see the sunrise and we tender in. I am the only person in the world to ride the mule up--it was a ton of fun and NO, YOU WILL NOT SMELL LIKE A MULE!!!

I couldn't stop laughing!!!!DH has a horse related injury so he took the cable car and we meet on the cliffside. The views are unbelievable, the day is perfect--we can see forever!!

We walk to a place that says tours and car rental and get a car (with insurance ) for 30 euros for the day. It is off season and we are the only ship in port so we did not make a reservation. A person comes and gets us and we walk through alleyways to get to the car rental place, soon we are off in our cute little Citron.

We go to the black beach and there is a changing kiosk where I get into my suit. The views are beyond anything you can imagine--the black pebbles--the clear blue water the cliffs surrounding the town of white houses and blue domed churches. We look at our map and it looks like we can go over the mountain and then get to wine country and the lighthouse and red beach. So we drive up the road that is a little over one car wide and made of cobblestones with switchbacks and no guard rails. The views take you breathe away--or is that fear?? We get to the top and we are at Thessis an ancient settlement and those lines on the map are hiking trails. We are on the top of the world--you can see the entire island. There are small sage like plants that smell like cumin. Its great--and then we realize that we have to drive DOWN.

We make a quick stop at a grocery store to get wine and they have a wine machine with spigots where you fill your own bottle. I just buy regular traditional Santorini wine. I love going into grocery stores!!

The drive through wine country is great, the vines grow in little circles there are little wineries all over with tastings. We are getting confused and I want to see the view from Santos so we stop for pictures (and a taste or two). We get directions to the lighthouse and red beach. On the way I see a line of old Greek windmills along a hillside.

I can't even begin to describe the lighthouse. You can hear the singing of the Gods as the wind blows through the trees. The beauty is so intense it hurts your eyes. We climb around but stop short of climbing on this little point that juts out to the end of the world. We can't tarry too long--off to Red Beach.

To get to red beach you have to climb down the cliffs, then you are in a sheltured little cove with bright red pebbles. We relax on the beach and I swim in the clearest water I have ever been in. We have lunch (a snack bar called the red cave is there). Then DH notices that I didn't have to get my b-suit wet at all--nobody minds if you swim nude (no I didn't, but I could have!!)

Then we continue to drive with incredable views to reach Oia. This town is a bit touristy is worth the visit. The location on the tip of the island and the tradional cliff houses is unique and of course this is where the world comes for the sunset.

We walk around a bit and then get a table in a little tavern right on the edge of the cauldera--a perfect place for the greatest show on earth (or in the universe if you are into Atlantis). The crowd gathers--tripods are set up, the sun is perfect. We order wine and traditional food. Then.... a FOG BANK rolls in. You can feel the disappointment!! But still a good time was had by all! Then we have to find the car--and then find the rental place. Remember, the morning was filled with excitement as we followed the guy through alleys and then sped off to our adventure. Now we are coming in from a different adventure and its dark. By sheer dumb luck we stumble right back to the car place. Then we walk a bit through Fira and take the cable car down to the tender and back on the ship by 9:30.

Nice to knows:

The donkeys are FUN!!! the cable car is boring and for whimps!! DO IT!!! After all how many times will you be in Santorini?

Rent a car!! Tour the contryside--its an island you can't get lost--but you can end up on top of a mountain.

If you can't rent a car--at least take the bus to Oia, do not just stay in Fira.

Santorini is more beautiful than any pictures or word can convey--Can you tell--I want to go back to Greece!!!

Delicious report! Devoured every word.

I'm sorry about your day in Rome. I hope you can return there again soon and have the bad memories erased. :)

Linda~Thank you, I made DH read your review, now he wants to go! I'll have to wait awhile but it's going to happen:) .

Dubrovnik-It is important to get up early. Understand that DH is not a morning person-but this is one port where I begged, he got up and we were on the first tender with about six other early birds (it was about 7:30). Tendering was nice because you go right to the old city. We have the entire place to ourselves, its quiet and breathtaking. The stone streets are shiny--you feel that you have gone back in time and are really in a medieval town. We walk through the city to the back of the wall and it is 8am--when they open. We are the second people on the walls and have the walk basically to ourselves. You can feel the history and feel the love that these people have for this place.

Then a great sadness hits me. Since you are rooftop height you can see the damage from the war. Understand that the city is beautifully restored--but when you look at the tiles you see new red tiles under the salvaged tiles--and some completely new. You notice places on the walls that are new. I can't help but remember pictures of the war--it is such a waste!! after an hour we make the entire loop and notice the crowd is growing. We leave the walls and the cloister opens at 9--we are the first ones there. Beautiful garden and frescos, the pharmacy is worth the visit--then I notice a shell is left in one of the walls. I look through a little picture album and see that almost the entire cloister was destroyed--I start to cry--I'm crying right now as a type this. Something about the destruction of this place of beauty touches me deeply in my soul. I tell the guard how sorry I am--she starts to cry and says that they aimed for this spot on purpose and alsmost destroyed the whole thing--but she adds that the city is ok now, they came back.

By now the tour groups are rumbling through the town and we explore the back alleys (do you notice a theme here?) and find a wonderful little shop which is famous for the best traditional hand work in Dubrovnik. The methods and names of the patterns are explained and we see pictures of the generations of women in the family that have perfected this craft. Then the shop owner explains that he was a defender--and what it was like during the war. He passionately tells how everyone stayed--and how all the men grabbed their hunting rifles and stood on the walls to defend against Howitzers lobbing bombs. Even the women refused to leave their beloved city.

When we leave we hear a band on the street--there is a concert in the square with traditional music and dancing--then they break into an ABBA medley--Momma Mia in an ancient city--something that must be experienced to fully appreciate.

Now Croatia has the purest ocean in the world--really, its documented--so we must go to the beach. We ask and there is a beach right by the walls--others are too far away, so back to the ship to change and its beach time. OK-- NOW i have swum in the purest ,cleanest ,clearest ocean on earth. The water is clearer than the cleanest new swimming pool. There are pretty fish and people are snorkelling. We spend the rest of the afternoon at the beach and then reluctantly gather our stuff to leave. A couple of guys on the beach ask if we are on the ship (could it be the Celebrity beach towels?) when we say yes they express their sympathy. For the first time ever I'm sad to be on a cruise. I want to stay!!! I want to explore more of this country!!

I'll be back!!

Nice to knows:

Get to town early. The walls are narrow and it was off season with two ships in port--but later the crowds were just shuffling through. At the dock there are beaytiful lace and handworked linens at good prices.

Swim if you have the chance!!!

Venice--To be honest after Greece and Croatia I was not looking forward to more Italy. The sail-in to Venice was perfect and changed my mind. Over 18 months in advance we booked a starboard cabin on a forward bumpout just for this moment--a perfect choice. We get to the dock and I have the directions from a cruise critic about how to walk to P Roma. We get to the terminal and there is a free Costa bus. We have our Celebrity bag, but they tell us to get on the bus anyway, free is good. We get off at P Roma and are nabbed by a free trip to Morano--DO NOT DO THIS, they trap you into staying for a sales tour--we run to get our Vapoetto all day tickets. We ride #82 along the Grand Canal and I have to admit--this Venice place is pretty cool. We get off and decide to feed the pigeons--even though I swore that I wouldn't. This is the best 1 euro show in town!!! Then we wander because that is what you do in Venice. We find a backstreet gondola and for 60 euros get a wonderful ride complete with singing!!! Venice is touristy--but hey--its Venice. The glass and mask shops are beautiful.

We have a true Italian tourist experience and are conned into a too expensive lunch, but its good and we are sitting outside on a beautiful day in Venice. We then just do Vaporetto hopping and ride around--get off--get on --ride some more. It seems that you can always end back at P Roma somehow.

We decide to call it a day as it gets dark, one last ride down the Grand Canal--now you can see wonderful glass chandeleers in the windows and we try to find the bus.

We can't and forget that there is a Vaporetto that goes to the port--we walk about 15 min back to the ship.

Turns out the Costa ship already left and so no more free busses.

WE pack and have our final dinner.

The next morning I'm up to see the most magical sunrise over Venice--the perfect end to a perfect trip.

Airport--

Get to the airport early. We were the only ship disembarking, and it was off season--but the lines were still unreal. At a more crowded time I can't imagine how long it would take.

We flew US Air non-stop to Philly. GET A WINDOW ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE PLANE!!! We were on the left. On the right you see the alps and glaciers, Lake Geneva (we saw the lake and some of the Alps), and Paris.

Final thoughts.

You can never plan enough. I read guidebooks that I took out of the library, watched every travel show that I could find, asked questions on TripAdvisor on the local forums and also read the portreviews website. I searched by topic on this board and read rollcalls and reviews on cruise critic. I had a list of words for every port.

Everyone's travel style is different, but when I compared what we did to our table mates I feel that we were able to get a better feel for the places that we saw. And yes, I probably will find myself in Rome again (don't all roads lead to Rome?) and will just wander to try to listen to what that city has to say to me.

People would say we were gutsy--or had courage to do what we did. It was easy. I must thank Luv to Travels famous reports for inspiring me. I made a budget--usually was well below. I ate plain organic yougert for a month before we left so that I would be better able to handle local food. I have an allergy to seafood and had a picture of fish with a line through it for my trans lation.

This was the perfect way to get a sample of the region--to decide where to return, and where to say been there done that.

It was not as exhausting as I thought it would be, but I had made it a point to do alot of walking in advance to get into shape.

So--don't be afraid---explore and savor life!!!

Linda

Wow!!!

Dianne

Thanks for the detailed review. We will be on the Millie on the 10 Sept 2007 cruise from Barcelona to Venice.

We will book our flights when the 330 day purchase window opens and then start detailed planning! Your report will be very useful.

Thank you so much for taking the time to tell the rest of us all about your trip. We are set to take the Millie on the Classic med cruise Oct 7, 2007. Like you , I am reading everything I can get my hands (eyes??) on before we leave. One thing..you did not mention the name of the tour company that Claudio owns? works for ? I am checking out "Driver in Rome." Is this the same company? Thanks, Monterey Girl

Great job!!!! Sure hope you get a chance to go back to Rome without a guide!!! We did this cruise in 2005 and plan to go back to do it again!!! There is just so much to see and do!!! as to donkey's hubby made me ride them up, too. I haven't laughed so much since!!!! Well worth the experience!!!

We also returned from the 10/5 Med trip. We used limoinrome in florence and Rome. Claudio was the person I contacted. We has a driver and a guide(Claudia) for the day. Claudia was the best. She kept us on schedule allowing us to see the most in 9 hours that we were with her. It was one of our best tours.

We used the same tour company for a day in Florence. We had 2 drivers who were very adept in getting us to see the most for our time in Florence.

We used Salvatore of driveamalfi for our day in Naples.

Our tours were wonderful.

Nancy

Linda - I really enjoyed your review & it brought back wonderful memories! Your style of travel is very similar to ours .... next time we will tackle the Nietzke path .... and on your next trip, I think you would enjoy taking the train into Rome :) (It's hard not to think of the next Med trip, when the first one is that wonderful!)

dileep,

FYI, in case you ahven't seen it. I think there is a coupon for your cruise in this months Capt. Club mag. It is online at the Celebrity site.

Jerry

There is what is supposed to be one of the most beautiful hikes in the world on a 6 km (takes about 3 hours) path from Fira, through the little villages in between, to Oia on Santorini. Just don't know if I would want to sacrafice Red Beach to do it.

Thanks for your review. I have a few questions on the Nietzke Path. Is it very a difficult climb down? Is it easy to get lost? Is a scenic hike? Thanks

skyboy--

Yes it is a very scenic hike, and once you get on the path you cannot get lost because it is the only trail down.

The path is clear and gravel, sometimes there are small rocks that you have to carefully step down, but no real climbing or rock scrambling is involved. My husband and I are somewhat fit, but not ready to do real mountains anymore and had no trouble with this hike.

I had researched the Nietzsche path on the web and somewhere there is a picture of the sign that starts the path ( I wish I remember where it was). Anyway we stopped at the tourist booth and asked. After you climb around Eze head back down through the parking lot and keep to your right while heading down toward the road. HIDDEN in some bushes is a small white sign that says Chemin Frederic Nietzsche, with an arrow below that says EZE/MER Gare Plage.

Most of the time on this trip you will be in crowds of people,running like a crazy person trying to see everything. For this hike you will be alone in the quiet with incredable views of the mountains with the Med sparkling just below you. A bonus is that when you are almost at the bottom you go through some homes where the rich and maybe famous live. The path drops you off right across the street from the prain station. If you do what we did you can then go back and soak your tired body in the sea when you get back to Villefranche.

Thanks, that sounds really great!!

Thanks for your great review of your October Europe cruise. We will be taking the same trip on May 13, 2007 and then renting a car in Venice and going on to Switzerland, Germany, Czech Republic and Austria. I am trying to carrying just one suitcase per person. Are there formal nights on the 12 day cruise? I am assumingt there are probably 2, the 2 nights at sea.

Thanks for your help,

Ken

There are 3 formal nights. We were on the 10/29/06 sailing. You are in for a wonderful cruise and itinerary.

We too, are doing this same cruise in Sept of 2007, and just a question re timing for coming home. We dock for last leg of our cruise in Venice and was wondering what time do you think we would be able to disembark and catch a taxi to the ariport???? Presently we are looking at a 11:30 flight from Venice, am concerned this might not be enough time. Anyone with thoughts on this please let me know. Thanks. Liz

We too, are doing this same cruise in Sept of 2007, and just a question re timing for coming home. We dock for last leg of our cruise in Venice and was wondering what time do you think we would be able to disembark and catch a taxi to the ariport???? Presently we are looking at a 11:30 flight from Venice, am concerned this might not be enough time. Anyone with thoughts on this please let me know. Thanks. Liz

You are not spending any extra time in Venice!!!! It's a great city to wander and the short time the ship is there gives you very little time to enjoy it. If you have to get home then you can disembark the ship anytime since you do overnight in Venice.

Thanks for your reply. We will probably plan on sending our formal wear home since we won't need it on the rest of the trip. I noticed in checking the Venice port site that the ship docks on the 24th at about noon and we disembark on the 25th. However, the ship doesn't sail until the 26th. What time did you disembark?

Thanks again,

Ken

Yes, there were three formal nights--but you don't need to go over formal. On our cruise many people wore the "little black dress" or black slacks with fancy tops. Not as many gowns as I've seen on other cruises.

Since I'm still checking this board I feel it only fair to warn you. Cruising the Med and exploring Europe is addictive. We are less than a month from a Caribbean cruise and I haven't even started packing yet. When people ask where we are going I am guilty of saying "just the Caribbean".

Now I'm pouring over itineraries and looking at Turkey, Greece and maybe Egypt--you know the old saying--"How are you going to keep them down on the farm......"