May 26th Avalon Poetry Budapest to Prague - Report

[Livestotravel]

You were "allowed" to, but they warned that there would be a 5% surcharge if you used a credit card or I think even U.S dollars. I suspect that they meant the crew would get 5% less - so we did what was suggested, and had enough Euros to cover the tips. We did tip the bartenders extra, personally - we spent a "little" time there, and they were just great!!

 

I just hope everyone did their share - the crew are so hard-working, and since it's not done automatically with a chance to lower or add to it like on some cruise ships, it certainly would have been easy to just ignore the tip envelopes left in the cabin.

[Livestotravel]

First of all, the staff of Avalon Waterways did a phenomenal job of rescheduling everything. In the morning there were 5 busses, with drivers of course, and five guides to take us to Regensburg and this all had to be arranged in a very short period of time once the decision was made that we couldn’t continue upriver.

 

The bus trip was 1 ½ hours, and after a mild “protest” by passengers, the return was modified from leaving Regensburg at 5:30 to having three of the busses available at 4:00 for those wanting to get back earlier. Since the Captain’s dinner was scheduled for that evening, I think a lot of passengers wanted to get back before dinner!

 

Our walking tour started from the bus park, along the river. The sky was blue - it was a gorgeous day! We saw the Porta Praetoria – Roman ruins, continued on to the Stone Bridge, 12th century, and the oldest surviving bridge in Germany. The Alte Wurstkuche (Old Sausage Kitchen) is right there too, but we never got back there during our free time, to have a taste – this is Germany’s oldest restaurant. We stopped in the square to admire the gothic Petersdom cathedral. Continuing our walk, the unique merchant’s towers that were part of a house, were frequently seen, and are a throw back to the middle ages. At the town hall, a horse drawn carriage pulled up with white “bonnets” adorning the horses’ heads while the formally suited drivers waited for a bride and groom to come out. A small table had been set up with champagne – I guess for a toast. It was explained that for a marriage be legal there had to be a civil ceremony, even if the couple also had a church wedding.

 

Our inside visit was to the Thurn and Taxis Palace, where Princess Gloria still lives. This Palace is twice the size of Versailles and 6 times that of Buckingham Palace.

 

Because there was no Poetry nearby for lunch, arrangements had been made for all 160 or so of us to have lunch in a brew pub. It was a wonderful place, but they couldn’t handle this crowd, and some waited over an hour just for their order to be taken. That was cutting into our shopping time and I think the general feeling was that we would have rather fended for ourselves in town – they could have reimbursed us or not – it would have been a lot better. My friend and I thought the “Krautstrudel with sour cream” sounded good – what were we thinking – must have been the word strudel that got to us – it was sauerkraut in pastry – ugh!! But the beer was good.

 

After walking around for an hour or so we made our way back to the bus park for the “early” bus home. I think actually four busses came back early, and only one stayed for the later folks. On the bus ride back we saw a lot of evidence of the flooding.

 

After "happy hour", the champagne offered for the Captain's dinner, and the free-flowing wine with dinner, I joined in some line dancing in the lounge to end a wonderful day.

[Livestotravel]

We decided that the 2½ hour ride to Nuremburg was too long for a couple of hours tour, and that we would rather explore the charming little town where we were docked – Vilshofen.

We poked around shops, walked around the town and along the pier, and just generally took it easy. It was also time to pack up those suitcases, since arrangements had been made to bus us to Prague from Vilshofen the next morning. This would take the same 4 hours, just a different route. This is a totally charming town, right on the Danube, and was a great opportunity to enjoy doing practically nothing for a day. It was still kind of cold but I did manage an hour on the sundeck in the late afternoon. At one point a commuter ship needed to use the dock, so we had our final 20 minute cruise on the Danube while we moved out into the river temporarily to let the boat disembark it’s passengers.

I do want to mention that those who went to Nuremberg were glad that they did, but we were satisfied with our decision, too.

That evening we had a beer tasting after dinner. With suitcases needing to be out in the hallway by 6 a.m., it was an early night.

[jeffejo]

When you went on your tours were you expected to tip the bus drivers and local guides? If so how much?

[Livestotravel]

We tipped according to the time spent with the guide - for a whole day, or say 4 or more hours, we'd tip 5 euros for both of us. If it was a quick walking tour, then 1 euro each, and sometimes it seemed as if that wasn't even expected. Avalon, at least for our trip, used different busses and drivers for each tour, so we only tipped one driver because he drove us from Linz, to Salzburg and all around that area, and then into Germany to Passau. At that we almost had to track him down to tip him - no tip boxes prominently displayed - how refreshing! Other companies seem to use the same bus and driver for the whole tour and if that had been the case we certainly would have tipped our driver.

[Livestotravel]

So, with our onboard account already settled by arranging for separate credit cards to be charged throughout the cruise, and our tips placed in the box on the reception desk, we had breakfast and waited for our “blue bus” to be announced. At 7:40 we were called and disembarked to identify our luggage from under a kiosk (yes, it was raining again), and wheel it over to our bus to be loaded. If I haven’t been specific about the colors, we signed up initially for a bus color and split ourselves up that way throughout the tour – a group of 31 from New Brunswick, Canada were all on the “white” bus, the rest of us were on either the red, blue, green or yellow. There was no attempt to segregate us by walking “prowess” and I don’t think it made any difference. On the optional tours we were all mixed in together, and the only two with walking difficulties kept up quite well.

 

On the drive through Germany to the Czech Republic, we were given a history, geography and political information complete with maps and other visual aids! The current price of gas in Germany, by the way, is $6.50 a gallon! We were fortunate not to have been surcharged for this cruise as many other tour companies did. The ride began on a winding two-lane road through beautiful farmland, before reaching an autobahn when we were halfway to the Czech Republic. There was one rest stop at a convenience store where the line for the bathrooms stretched throughout the store.

 

We arrived at the Hilton in Prague at 12:00 p.m. and were immediately taken to an area of their Atrium restaurant and seated at tables. Coffee or tea was free, but if you wanted to have their buffet lunch, it cost U.S. $20. It was so nice, though, to have a place to sit and relax, and enjoy a good lunch, so we went for it. Others asked directions to the local McDonald’s and had lunch there. When the rooms were ready, we were checked in right at the restaurant, a few at a time, and got our keys at 2:30. I think the Hilton handles groups very well.

 

After unpacking, we met one of the women we had been traveling with, and together we set out for Old Town along the Vltava River. It had actually stopped raining, but was cold and windy and after maybe half a mile we turned left (second bridge you come to from the Hilton) and cut down to New Town. We saw the Old Jewish Quarter off to the right after a few blocks and walked around there for a little while. I had wanted to see the display of drawings made by children imprisoned in the Terezin concentration camp, but even those who paid for the tour were not shown this. You could look through the iron gates into the cemetery where the graves are up to 12 layers deep and up to 12,000 gravestones are crammed into the tiny space.

 

Continuing our walk we came to Old Town (Stare Mesto) and waited with hordes of other tourists to see the Astronomical Clock on the Old Town Hall strike 5:00. Even the hotel literature warned of pickpockets, and we had our money secure in waist wallets, pockets, etc. with only maps and water in our purses. On the walk back to the hotel, we kept losing our way, but when we passed a little restaurant called Chez Marcel (Hastalska 12) we stopped in for a drink and directions. The menu looked so good, however, that we soon changed our minds and I had a salad with blue cheese, apples, walnuts and a quiche, while my friend had “the best foie gras she has ever had”. We ate and drank for about $20 apiece. Armed with directions we made our way back to the hotel. While the Hilton is a beautiful hotel, it is not very convenient!

 

After a short visit to the casino, we called it a night. There was no hassle getting into this casino, they just asked if you were staying at the hotel. By the way, I used the ATM in the hotel lobby to get $50 more (about 1000 Czk – probably not the best exchange rate) and changed the bill to smaller denominations at the cashier in the casino.

 

The next morning after the included breakfast we met at 8:30 for the coach and walking tour of Prague. The guide timed it so that – you guessed it – we were in the Old Town Square in time to see the Clock strike eleven. The tour included the Royal Palace and St. Vitus Cathedral. We were dropped back at the hotel, and made a plan for the afternoon. I was interested in seeing the “Infant of Prague” at the Church of Our Lady Victorious, which is in the Mala Strana or Little Quarter, across the Charles Bridge. We opted for a taxi ride there. The cab driver didn’t quite get where we wanted to go, until he understood we wanted to see the “Bambino di Praga”. This wax figure of Christ as a baby has a record of miracle cures and is revered by many Catholics. I received a statue of the Infant of Prague as a wedding present many moons ago. Anyway, taking a cab doesn’t quite constitute a pilgrimage, but it got us there. There is a small museum upstairs displaying all the beautiful robes that have been given for the “baby” to wear.

 

After that, we walked along the streets looking for lunch and came upon a Balkan restaurant called Gitanes on Trziste 7 in Mala Strana once again we thoroughly enjoyed the food, but did get “taken” by being charged for the delicious bread and dip that were brought over unsolicited for us to “enjoy” while waiting for our food to be served. I guess we were charged the equivalent of $7 for that – it was delicious, but still. . .beware. . . lunch and a drink came to $43 for the two of us. From there we did some shopping in some very unique little shops with local artists wares. We continued walking until we got to the Charles Bridge. By now it was 4 o’clock or so and it wasn’t very crowded. There are vendors on the bridge, also, selling their hand-made items. Soon we once again found ourselves in the Old Town Square. We decided on a cocktail at the café at U Prince, just in time to comfortably watch the clock strike five. By the way, the little figures that come out represent the apostles, and then there are other figures below that move, and when it is all over there is the sound of a rooster crowing which inevitably brings a roar of laughter from the crowd.

 

We walked back to the hotel – the walk was feeling longer and longer – and went to the cocktail lounge in the lobby. We sat for a while with friends from the tour, and heard about the optional tour one had taken to Terezin, a concentration camp.

 

The next morning after breakfast in the Atrium we got directions for the most direct way to Old Town, but still wandered off the track I think. We came upon the Municipal House and walked around inside a little, although decided against taking the tour. We also went looking for Wenceslas Square and from there found ourselves once again in the Old Town Square. We investigated the rooftop restaurant at U Prince, but just about then it started to rain. Back on the sidewalk, we got a table right on the Square under the canopy at the U Prince café, and, you guessed it, were just in time to see the Clock strike 12:00. We had drinks and pasta dishes for lunch and actually were still sitting there for the 1:00 p.m. Clock show! Took the long walk back to the hotel after that – thank goodness for all my rain gear.

 

We were signed up for a concert that evening. This opportunity was added on as an option when the 40 seats for the original 8:00 p.m. Dvorak concert filled up. Akos, our cruise director, was able to secure a “private” concert for 50 of us at 6:30 in the Antonin Dvorak Museum. What an absolute treat! The 50 of us were seated in a “drawing room” after being served an aperitif of Becherovka. The premise of the concert was that Dvorak was due to visit for a musical party at a soprano opera singer’s salon. Each singer individually, and sometimes together, sang a favorite of Dvorak’s, and a violinist did several wonderful pieces. The plot included the announcement by a servant bringing the crushing news that Dvorak had died. It was just a magnificent evening of music, in that very intimate setting, and such a fitting end to our tour.

Back at the hotel we decided on dinner in their fine restaurant – I think the meal came to about $80 apiece but was worth every penny. Besides, we had to have the bags out at 5:45 a.m., have breakfast the second the Atrium buffet opened, and be at the busses by 6:30 so we didn’t want to venture out looking for someplace to eat. Once again we were asked to point out our bag to be sure it was loaded. The bus left us midway between two terminals, and it was up to us to get ourselves inside and find out which one we were departing from. It took my friend at least 1 ½ hours to get her VAT refund. They don’t make it easy!! Our very short layover in Copenhagen turned into a two-hour delay and we bought a little lunch and a few souvenirs. The SAS flight home was over Kristiansand, Norway, Iceland, Greenland, Montreal and Boston. A free Bailey’s followed the good lunch with wine! And so ended a truly wonderful trip.

[wbrumel]

I enjoyed reading your comments so much that I cut and pasted them into one journal to print and read, as it contains so much great info for my upcoming trip (Avalon Prague to Budapest in Oct). The only thing that could've made it better is if you included pictures. Thanks again. I hope we don't have your weather, but hope the rest of our trip equals yours.

[Jswen]

Hi Lives,

Thank you so much for the informative report, Ive enjoyed coming home each evening and reading the next installment.

You did a wonderful job of detailing the resturants and sights that you visited.

I recieved a Viking River Travel booklet in the mail today and looked at the trips. Maybe France next time?

Still think we will stay with Amadeus Waterways as we were very pleased with our overall trip.

Judy

[Jancruz]

Thanks for the wonderful review..I really enjoyed it!! In Prague did you happen to see the Hotel Antik..thats where we have reservations in October..when I am sure it will be cold and rainy :-)

Thanks,

Jan

*****

[S&B]

Hi livestotravel,

I have been reading all of your reviews and remembering all the places we went also. I watched your weather while you were gone and realized that you had lots of rain. We left two weeks later and had rain in Budapest on Sat. a.m. and then it turned quite warm. Especially in Prague. It was very hot and crowded. It was the beginning of the World Cup and there were people every place. I would love to go back in the fall some time.

 

We really loved Budapest and found some great places to eat and were very surprised by the prices and the amount of food that you got. We were in one restaurant on Friday p.m. and I thought sure that I read the menu wrong because the servings were so big. All of our meals were US$10.00, without drinks, for each. We want to go back to Budapest if for nothing else but to eat!!

 

We walked from the Sofitel across the Chain Bridge, down to the Margaret Bridge and then back to our hotel. We had to go in back of the Parliament because the front is closed off to foot traffic. Even that was beautiful. Every place you looked there was a picture to be taken.

 

Glad you had a great trip and thanks for posting the review.

 

Oh, yes, we had one encounter. For those of you going to Vienna, if you take the subway back to the ship be very careful! My hubby got his pocket picked. It was 6 p.m. and very crowded. The train is very fast and he was concerned about me being able to hang on. In all of that someone used the opportunity to make his living. :( I am sure he, whoever he is, was not happy because we travel very light. We had only 77 Eur and one CC which we were able to cancel very quickly. He had his billfold in his front pocket but took his hand out for just a moment. When we got off the train he realized it right away and had a black mark on his pocket where they used "whatever" to get his billfold. He was shook up but we didn't let it ruin our trip. In Prague he used his money belt. I still had a CC and a debit card so we were o'k. My bank insisted that we each have our own debit card with different numbers. I didn't know why then but I do now. All in all I am just glad there was no confrontation. As long as we are safe that is what matters.

 

Sorry this is so long. Just wanted to share that with anyone that wanted to read. You keep saying it won't happen to me but it does.

 

Happy travels to those who are taking this trip later in the summer. :)

[gas]

Hi Livestotravel, you wrote a great, great review of your trip. Thanks so much. As we're now planning for our Oct, 12th trip, I have a few questions.... What were the suggested tips for the crew and cruise director? How far from the Hilton to Old Town? This is a strange one but my husband insisted I ask, Do they have ketchup on the Poetry? How dressy were the Captian's dinners? Guess who refuses to bring a sports jacket. Anyone out there on this same trip? I'd love to hear from you. Thanks again, I'm really excited after reading all livestotravel had to say.

[lobsterlover]

Sorry to hear of your misfortune on the subway........we took that subway, and were lucky not to have any problems. We did have a begger get on at one stop and off at the next (no ticket, for sure). We kept our eyes on him. We will be in Budapest for a couple of days in Oct. What were the names of the restaurants you enjoyed...at such a reasonable price, and address if you have it. Thanks,

 

L.L.

[aneckc]

Hey Gas- I just returned from the Avalon Poetry's 21 day Grand Black Sea cruise and I had the same questions as your husband. He will be glad to hear that yes they have ketchup on the ship. How else can you eat eggs in the morning? Seriously they usually have them in little packets (next to the maple syrup) on the counter above the oatmeal and pancakes. If you can't find them be sure to ask. You will find the breakfast and lunch buffets have everything you could ask for.

 

It is a 10 minute walk from the Hilton (great hotel) into the edge of Old Town and an additional 20 minutes to the Charles Bridge. Not the prettiest of walks however.

 

Most men wore a coat to the Captain's Dinner...but NOT ALL. One wore a tuxedo. Some just wore a long sleeve shirt with or without a tie. No problem there for those who don't care to dress up. comfortable being the I brought a coat only because I had room in my suitcase but it was a long way to drag a jacket for only one night. No shorts for dinner though. Most women seemed to dress up nicely.

 

Your cabin girl will turn down your beds for you during dinner as well as exchange any wet towels you may have used during the day. Lots of folks seemed to have showered before dinner after a hot day in town.

 

Enjoy your cruise.:)

[Livestotravel]

Thanks for all your kind words. I started writing "diaries" of my trips on our first trip to Ireland about 30 years ago, and typed it out to mail to my sister, with a copy for my photo album. How much easier it is now with computers and email!! Anyway, I find myself returning to those reviews when I can't remember something about a trip, or someone asks for advice. This is the first time I did it for cruise critic, so the review has a somewhat different slant, but it too will get printed and put in my album.

 

Jancruz1, no we didn't see the Hotel Antik.

 

In Budapest we ate at Dunacorso, Cafe Gerbeaud, the cafe Zsolnay Kavenhaz at the Hotel Taverna, and lunch one day at the Marquis de Salade - kind of Moroccan or Turkish, with interesting good food.

 

S & B - sorry to hear about the pickpocket - perhaps we were lucky because we didn't take any public transportation. Of course with all the warnings about Prague - I don't think I would have been particularly wary in Vienna. Guess it is everywhere - glad you didn't let it spoil your trip. Someone else's report talked about the hot and muggy weather - how quickly it changed over two weeks. Guess you can't figure it!

 

And thanks for answering the ketchup question, et al. I am starting to forget the particulars.

 

I actually don't know how to insert pictures, but would be glad to post a few if someone wants to walk me through it. I do have them online, so just tell me what to do to imbed them in a post. Thanks.

[Livestotravel]

Sorry, I see the restaurant question was for S & B - just raced right ahead with where we ate. We didn't do as well price-wise, but did enjoy everything we ordered.

[BJS]

I actually don't know how to insert pictures, but would be glad to post a few if someone wants to walk me through it. I do have them online, so just tell me what to do to imbed them in a post. Thanks.

I'm sure someone could tell you how to insert pictures but most people just put a link to the url (web site) that has their pictures - assuming anyone can get onto that web site and view them without signing up or having a password. Just put brackets [ ]with url between them- then the web site address then another set of brackets with /url between them on your post and that should do it.

 

Your trip reports were great and an inspiration for all of us.:)

[Livestotravel]

The suggested amount is 12 euros or $15 U.S. per day per person for the crew and 3 euros or $3.60 per day per person for the Cruise Director. Higher than any cruise ship I've ever been on, but we planned for it and set aside that amount in euros to put in the tip envelopes. We were told if we put it on a credit card there would be a 5% surcharge, which we assumed would be deducted from what the crew received. This may have been misunderstood by us since the disembarkation info only mentions a 5% surcharge if you pay your shipboard account with Traveler's Checks, and actually does say you can put the gratuity on a credit card. There is a tip box at the reception desk where you deposit the tip envelopes.

[Livestotravel]

Hi - I trying this, it worked when I sent myself an email with the URL. That's me toasting at the Gerbaud Brew Pub, and another of me on the statue at Vilshofen (no connection!)

 

Not looking right in the preview, but I guess the only way to see if it will work is to post this - wish me luck!

 

Sorry - I had to remove it - it brought up the vendor's website, gave my email address, and asked for a password. Anyone have another suggestion now that I have intrigued you with my description of the two pictures of me??