6 days independent in Alaska...

[bdwyer]

We have just returned from a northbound cruise on the Sapphire Princess followed by 6 days in Alaska, touring on our own. Rather than go on and on about the cruise, which I could easily do, here are just a few highlights that might be of help:

If you have the option of Anytime Dining on your cruise, take it - it allowed us to watch every sail-off and spend the cruise-through of College Fiord in the aft hot tub, rather than rush to get to a set dinner seating.

Don't panic if you're on the "wrong" side of the ship for glacier viewing; at least on Princess, they do at least one complete turn around at each glacier.

The independent tours you often see mentioned on this board, Island Wings Misty Fiords flightseeing in Ketchikan, Orca Enterprises (Captain Larry) whale watching in Juneau, and the drive into the Yukon using Murray's guide and an Avis rental car are all terrific - we couldn't have asked for better!

 

We disembarked in Whittier (total time was 20 minutes at the most) and used the Alaska Leopard Comedy Tour for transportation to Anchorage. This 4 hour jaunt is fun and has excellent stops at Portage Glacier and the wildlife conservation center. We used Hilton points to stay at the Anchorage Hilton that evening.

On Sunday we rented a car from Avis (free day in the Alaska Toursaver book, but be aware that this is for the downtown Anchorage location only) and drove to Denali Park. There is a Carr's grocery (a.k.a. Safeway for Westcoasters) right on the highway in Wasilla about 30 miles north of Anchorage which is a great stop for sandwiches and other provisions. We made a short stop in Takeetna, but Mt. McKinley was hidden and we found little else of interest here.

We stayed at the Denali Lakeview Inn in Healy, about 10 minutes from the park entrance, for 2 nights. This is a charming b&b with outstanding views of Otto Lake from each room and continental breakfast in the room for you every morning. They will also pack you a lunch for the park for $9. We went to the Cabin Nite dinner/show (2 for 1 AK Toursaver coupon) Sunday evening - fun show with historical info on the area and very tasty salmon and ribs. Far better than the dinner we had at Lynx Creek Pizzaria the following evening (if you eat at Lynx, order a thin crust pizza - their regular slices are awful!)

We took the park shuttle to Fish Creek. This was a long day for what turned out to be minimal animal sightings (a very sleepy grizzly up on a hill, a grey wolf who we followed with binoculars as she caught a rabbit and carried it over several miles back to her den, and a hillside of dahl sheep, but worth it for the vistas you'll see). Parents of kids under 10 - this is probably not something you want to put your kids through. We had several children on our trip, and they were bored and drove their parents (and the rest of the bus) nuts. Dogsled puppies or the shorter shuttle trip would be a much better option for families.

On Tues. we headed back to Anchorage and on to Kenai. As you leave the hotel area of Denali, there's a great sandwich shop - Bub's Subs - next door to the gas station. We had given up on seeing Mt. McKinley, but stopped about 2 hours out at the south park overlook for a quick driving break, and lo and behold, there she was, just beginning to peak out of the clouds. What a sight! Everything in Alaska is huge, and this mountain is no exception!

We stayed in Coopers Landing (about a 7 hour drive from Denali Park and 1 1/2 hours from Anchorage) at the Kenai Princess (another 2 for 1 Toursaver coupon). This hotel is a gem! Wonderful rooms with a sitting area and fireplace, great location overlooking the Upper Kenai River and excellent restaurant - ate the best halibut ever!

We drove to Soldatna (about 45 minutes) to fish with RW's fishing on Wed (again another Toursaver coupon). This is a 1/2 day trip backdrifting along the Lower Kenai River with a guide and four people in an aluminum boat fishing for King Salmon. Gear is provided; unfortunately, the fish are not and we came up empty. Even without a bite, the trip was fun and full of eagle sightings and other great picture opps.

We drove to Seward on our way back to Anchorage on Thursday. Couldn't motivate ourselves to do any more trips here - guess we were just winding down. Stayed at the Sheraton Anchorage using Priceline on this visit, returned the car and flew home the next day.

 

A few final comments about our trip, then feel free to post questions; I'll keep checking back -

The AK Toursaver book saved us more than $500, less the $99 cost of the book - a real value if you're doing an independent adventure. Every vendor we used was A+.

The driving was a bit daunting, but we broke it up with stops and felt it was far superior to being herded into the everpresent tour busses without options to stop and stay where we wanted to.

If you can take the extra time, this part of Alaska is well worth seeing and very different from what we saw on the cruise.

[LarryF]

bdwyer,

 

Thanks so much for you review. We are planning a very similar land trip next May and your review will be extremely helpful in my planning.

 

Did the Alaska Leopared tour pick you up right at the ship? Do they transport all your luggage? Where does is drop you off? Do they drop you off at your hotel?

 

Do you if the Kenai Princess in Cooper's Landing if very far from the Kenai Fjords Cruise tour?

 

Thanks,

 

Larry

[Chat Noir]

 

Did the Alaska Leopared tour pick you up right at the ship? Do they transport all your luggage? Where does is drop you off? Do they drop you off at your hotel?

 

 

We sailed Sapphire NB late May and booked Alaskan Leopard. Alaskan Leopard picks up right at the dock and will take you to the destination of your choice in Anchorage. Our group asked for drop-off at Great Alaskan Holidays and we were taken right to the front door.

 

If you plan to rent a car in Anchorage and drive back south to Seward/Homer/etc, you're best bet would probably be to take a shorter transfer, then pick up the highlights between Anchorage and Portage Glacier (note- PG is on the spur road back toward Whittier) on your own using your own timeframe. If not, this is a great tour/transfer to get you to some of the unique places between Whittier/Anchorage with a bit of a fun twist on the history/points of interest. The driver was very nice, and the 'comedy show', though not what I expected, was entertaining.

 

The Alaskan Leopard bus is followed by a pickup which carries all your luggage.

 

Part of our group flew home that evening, so it was a nice way for them to see some interesting places. The rest of us rented motorhomes and they weren't ready for pickup until afternoon, so it worked out nicely for us to spend some time sightseeing with Alaskan Leopard as well.

 

Price is similar to the ship transfer... it all just really depends on how you want to spend your time and what your needs are.

[bdwyer]

Alaskan Leopard picks up right at the ship, takes your luggage and is pretty flexible about where they drop you off (some of our van went to the airport, others to various hotels in Anchorage).

Kenai Princess is about a 45 min drive from Seward where you pick up the Kenai Fiords tours. Hotels in Seward are basically Holiday Inn Express and the like.

Have fun planning your trip and a wonderful visit to Alaska.

[greatam]

Do you if the Kenai Princess in Cooper's Landing if very far from the Kenai Fjords Cruise tour?

 

Thanks,

 

Larry

 

1-1 1/2 hours drive. Mileage, its not that far. But road construction, the train crossing and all the RV's, fisherman, etc. can make it a fairly long trip. Get behind someone doing 27 miles an hour (I did three weeks ago) and it makes for a VERY long trip.

[docholiday]

Hi Bdwyer,

thank you for a wonderful and detailed review.

We are doing a similar trip pre-SB cruise in another week.

 

In Anchorage, we are staying at the Sheraton as well.

Did you return the Avis car downtown and walk back to Sheraton?

If so, was it close and easy walk?

 

What time was your shuttle to Fish Creek? Wondered if lack of wildlife sighting was due to time or weather or luck?

Was the shuttle bus seats comfy? Do we need to bring our own cushions or pillows to take naps or sleep on the drive back?

Was the rest rooms clean during the stops?

Sorry for this barrage of Q's. I am asking all these for my wife and kids :)

 

Thanks.

[bdwyer]

Yes, the Sheraton is an easy walk to and from Avis, maybe 4-5 blocks? They have a shuttle for transportation around town (not to the airport) if you need it.

Not sure about why we didn't see more critters; sightings seemed to be spotty all day, from what we heard. It was drizzly so maybe they didn't want to get wet :D Shuttle is fairly comfortable (think school bus with seatbelts). They stop every hour to hour and a half at park rest stops which are remarkably clean outhouses (best non-graphic description I can give you). You may not want to sleep on your way back, as that's when we saw everything but the grizzly. Cushions and pillows really not necessary unless you want them. Be sure you bring a lunch/snack and water - there's nothing to eat out there.