Antwerp to Basel on the River Harmony

[cmthomas]

Part 1 - The Outbound Journey

 

As an introduction and to provide perspective, we are a couple in our late 60's who have traveled extensively having visited all seven continents, about 70 different countries, taken over forty ocean cruises and are now on our fourth river cruise. Our first was on the Mississippi on the River Explorer, the second on the M.S. Cezanne on the Rhone, the third on the GCT River Melody from Vienna to Amsterdam and now the fourth on the River Harmony from Antwerp to Basel.

 

Our only unpleasant experience with the last Grand Circle trip involved the air arrangements so this time we availed ourselves of the air credit option of $600 each and booked our own travel enabling us to arrive one day early in Europe to adjust from the overnight flight before embarking. It also allowed us to plan for an additional week following the river cruise to explore at our leisure. We also were able to book a non-stop flight from Washington to Brussels on United Air lines using frequent flyer miles. The flight was uneventful, leaving on time and arriving early the next morning in Brussels along with our luggage.

 

After reserving our river cruise we went searching on the Internet for a hotel at which we would spend our night in Brussels before going to Antwerp to embark on the River Harmony. A search was conducted of the hotel booking sites where we discovered a small hotel by the friendly name of Hotel Welcome. The hotel has only 15 rooms with each room decorated and furnished in a scheme representing a foreign nation. Room categories and costs range from a standard double at €85 per night to a Suite at €135 per night. We reserved a deluxe room at €115 per night and were treated to a night in China. The above rates include breakfast. The room was appropriately decorated and included a loft with a sitting area and TV. The hotel is conveniently located on Fisherman’s Market Square offering many dining choices. It is also convenient on foot to areas of tourist interest such as the Gran Place, the Mannequin Pis and the Bourse.

 

We chose to travel into the city from the airport on the train that is located right in the airport terminal. We purchased 2nd class tickets for €2.60 each before learning that substantial senior citizen discounts are available to those 65 and older for the simple asking. We trained to Brussels Centraal Station after finding that to be the closest to our hotel. Upon arrival we learned that this older station is not particularly luggage or taxi friendly. Upon departure, on the advice of our helpful hotelier, Vanessa, we took a taxi to Brussels Nord that has easy elevator and escalator access. Cab fare from and to the different stations was identical at €10.

 

Now armed with our new information we asked for senior citizens tickets to Antwerp Centraal Station and were pleased to find that the cost for the 45 minute trip was only €3 each. There were several trains every hour with no reservations needed. The trip was uneventful. Upon arrival we easily located a taxi to take us to the ship which was only a short distance away but beyond walking distance with luggage — even with wheels!

 

Our lovely River Harmony was docked along the River Schelde (pronounced "Skelt") and were warmly welcomed aboard.

 

Next: Antwerp - The River Cruise Begins!

[cmthomas]

Part 2 - Antwerp - The River Cruise Begins

 

Day #1 - Weather: Rainy and Chilly. Jacket and umbrella weather.

 

Our Romance with the Rivers had no scheduled activities as fellow travelers arrived throughout the day. A group of bleary eyed overnight air passengers arrived midday - 19 without their luggage having arrived with them! A wonderful reason for the ship NOT departing Antwerp until the next afternoon. Since we arrived midday a nice buffet luncheon was served until 2:00 p.m. in the restaurant with snacks continued thereafter in the lounge for those arriving later. By dinner time our passenger complement of 131 from all over the U.S. had joined us. Most were in bed shortly after dinner to recuperate from their long flights. Having arrived a day earlier we were well on our way to overcoming jet lag.

 

Day #2 - Weather: Morning showers, chilly and in the 50's. Still jacket and umbrella weather.

 

About 9:00 a.m. the 131 of us were divided into three color coded groups and an appropriately colored dot was placed on our name tag and each group was then assigned to one of the three Grand Circle Program Directors who would stay with us throughout the trip. Our group contained 42. Then, our group was divided in half with each smaller group provided a local guide to take us on a 90 minute walking tour of Antwerp pointing out numerous places of interest for later exploration if desired. The day being Friday it was our good fortune to be there on "Museum Free Day" for those who wished to visit one or more of the many museums in town during the afternoon. Our walking tour ended in the central market area with clear directions on how to locate the ship that was only a 10 minute walk. While in town we located an Internet Café to check our email (€3 per hour, 10 minute minimum) as the ship has no Internet connection. We then returned to the ship for lunch and passed up the opportunity to take an afternoon bus ride to Diamondland. We heard nothing positive or negative about Diamondland so we cannot fairly comment on that experience.

 

Our ship’s departure time was scheduled for 4:30 p.m. with everyone to be on board no later than 4:15 p.m. Passengers are kept track of by leaving their cabin key at the desk when going ashore. As departure time approached the staff noted one couple to be missing. They had gone on the bus to Diamondland and decided to explore some other nearby shops and return to the ship on their own. After repeatedly calling their name the Captain decided that he could wait no longer and still make his scheduled times at the locks so he ordered the gangway stowed and we pulled away. One of our Program Directors remained behind on the dock to organize the return of the missing passengers to the ship. They eventually appeared and all three joined the ship at the first lock several hours and an expensive cab ride later. The sad part of the story is that the Program Director indicated upon his return that the passengers did not seem unduly concerned about the inconvenience that they had caused.

 

Tonight was our Captain’s Welcoming Reception and dinner. At 6:00 p.m. we all met i9n the lounge where we were greeted with a complimentary glass of champagne and were then formally introduced to the staff, had a presentation on the next day’s port visit and then had a lovely veal dinner. On our previous Grand Circle trip unl8imited white or red local wines were included at dinner. Now it is clearly stated that two glasses are included which seemed to be satisfactory to everyone with whom we dined.

 

After dinner we were entertained in the lounge by a magician of local talent who was quite amusing. He left us at the lock about 10:00 p.m. and most of the passengers then welcomed the opportunity to retire to their cabin. The ship continued to sail and arrived at our next port late in the evening.

 

Next: Part 3 - Veere and the Delta Works

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Part 3 - Veere and the Delta Works

 

Day #3 - Weather: Occasional showers - 60'ish.

 

Saturday brought us to Veere where we docked late last night. As usual, breakfast was served beginning at 7:00 a.m. and most attended early as our tour was scheduled to depart at 9:00 a.m. and, as we have learned, times are strictly followed on this ship. Veere is the most perfectly preserved medieval town from the 16th century when it had a population of 200,000 and was a major seaport. As part of the Delta Works flood control project it is now a tourist destination with a population of about 5,000 as it no longer has direct access to the North Sea. Our Program Directors led us on a walking tour that lasted about 90 minutes following which we had time to visit the cute little shops to purchase mementoes. It was only a 5 minute walk back to the ship for lunch following which buses arrived to take us on a visit to the Delta Works, a series of barriers to protect the low areas from flooding from the North Sea. While we were gone our ship proceeded without us to the town of Brunisee where the buses returned us after our tour.

 

It is noted that in next year’s brochures the trip to the Delta Works is an optional tour at extra cost. Having been there I am not sure that I would be willing to pay extra for that tour. Others will certainly feel differently I am sure.

 

Tonight for dinner we enjoyed a delicious prime rib. There are always two entrees offered, the second usually being a fish dish. One of our dinner companions requested that a baked potato be substituted for risotto which was cheerfully accommodated.

 

Following dinner we were entertained by two musicians, a keyboard player and a vocalist, who played and sang tunes quite appropriate for the age range of the audience who danced until about 10:00 p.m. while we also enjoyed the passing scenery along the river as we proceeded to Dordrecht where we docked around 11:00 p.m. for an early start on Sunday morning.

 

Next: Part #4 - The Windmills of Kinderdijk and the Gen. George C. Marshall Museum.

[cmthomas]

Part 4 - The Windmills of Kinderdijk and the Gen. George C. Marshall Museum

 

Day #4 - Weather: Sunny, mid 60's.

 

On Sunday we awakened in Dordrecht, The Netherlands, for our customary 7:00 a.m. breakfast. To our great surprise Eggs Benedict, prepared to order, are on the menu today. They came to the table piping hot and delicious. Also available is the usual buffet offering scrambled eggs, bacon, sausage, all kinds of cereals both hot and cold and the most delicious croissants and pastries baked on board. We have booked a balcony cabin on the starboard side of the top deck that allows us to leave the balcony door open for fresh air during the night. Our cabin is just two cabins forward of the galley so each morning we awaken to the aromas of baking break and pastry as well as brewing coffee! Have we already become obsessed about eating? Of course - after all it is a cruise!

 

Since Dordrecht is basically an industrial town its tourist attractions require a trip outside of the city. Promptly at 9:00 a.m. we board a coach that skillfully transports us to a location where 19 windmills have been preserved. At one time The Netherlands had 10,000 windmills. Now there are less than 1,000 left that are being preserved for posterity. None of these 19 windmills are "working" but one is open for entry if you wish to pay a €3 fee to climb around inside of it. Since we have visited other windmills in the past we did not explore this one. After an hour of walking about, taking pictures and visiting the gift shop we returned to the bus and continued on to the Gen. George C. Marshall Museum. This museum is the hobby of Mr. J. deGroot, a former director of a renowned construction company "Grootint" who has been a collector of unique U. S. military vehicles. Following his retirement he formed a company to collect and restore mostly World War II vehicles and in 1997 opened a museum displaying his collection that he named after American General George C. Marshall (1880-1959) who was one of the few 5 star generals of the war, former Secretary of State and Secretary of Defense, the originator of the Marshall Plan for the rehabilitation of Europe after World War II and the only soldier to be the winner of the Nobel Peace Prize. Every vehicle displayed has been meticulously restored and is displayed in a carefully designed setting. For those with any interest in history this visit will be rewarding and informative.

 

Upon our return to Dordrecht the ship sailed immediately. We had our usual "Port Talk" at 6:45 p.m. followed by dinner offering a choice of chicken or fish that was most enjoyable. After dinner a Karaoke sing-along was offered that we did not attend. I also might mention that every evening thus far drinks in the lounge are half priced or two-for-one from 6:15 to 6:45 p.m. This is significant as drink prices are generally in the $5 range.

 

Next: Part 5 - Cruising the Rhine, Bonn, Ahrweiler and the Bridge at Ramagen.

[cmthomas]

Part 5 - Cruising the Rhine, Bonn, Arhweiler and the Bridge at Remagen

 

Day #5 - Monday. Weather: showers and chilly in the a.m. improving to cloudy by noon and sunny later. Temps in the low 60's.

 

This morning was the first opportunity for those who wished to do so to sleep in, however breakfast hours were still 7:00-9:00 a.m. At 9:30 a.m. the Program Directors presented a program advertised as a "German Lesson." It was a presentation of useful German words and expressions as well as a demonstration of the procedure used in public rest rooms and how to conduct one’s self when dining in a German restaurant. One of our Program Directors played the role of an American tourist who had not previously been to Germany. To say that this was hilarious would be an understatement. Of course, this presentation would depend upon the creative talents of your Program Directors.

 

Having sailed all night we awoke to the scenic views of the remainder of River Lech in The Netherlands to join the River Rhine as we passed into Germany. There were many barges and a few other river boats that we saw along the way. We passed a number of smaller towns, all with church spires visible from the river.

 

By midday we reached our docking point along the Rhine at the former capital of the former West Germany prior to its move to Berlin upon reunification. We drove through parts of Bonn on our way to the ancient city of Arhweiler settled 2,000 years ago by the Romans. Arhweiler is known as the "Rothenburg of the Rhine" which is a well deserved name for the old walled city with timber framed houses and numerous little shops. After a one hour walking tour with our Program Director there was ample free time for shopping before our departure for the site of the famous World War II Bridge at Remagen. Only remnants remain of this bridge that spanned the Rhine and was destroyed in the War. A small museum is operated in one of the bridge heads that remain which contains interesting exhibits including a large photo of the bridge as it was. The old movie "The Bridge at Remagen" was played on the ship’s TV channel this night but we didn’t see it - or as far as that goes any other movie on the trip.

 

From the bridge we returned to the ship and were treated to a Bavarian dinner that included a roasted suckling pig, veal, sauerkraut, sausages and all of the trimmings. The aroma of that meal awaited us throughout the ship when we returned.

 

After dinner we adjourned to the upper deck to enjoy the lovely evening and watch the Captain set sail viewing the passing Rhine under a full moon. In the lounge a musician who joined us at Bonn played music from a keyboard and sang German and American favorites.

 

We sailed throughout the night and were fast asleep before reaching the first lock where the musician departed.

 

Next: Part 6 - Cochem and a Home Hosted Dinner

[cmthomas]

Part 6 - Cochem and a Home Hosted Dinner

 

Day #6 - Tuesday. Weather: early overcast rapidly improving to sunny and warm. Temps in upper 60's.

 

Upon awakening we were already docked in the small town of Cochem (pronounced "COKE-EM") on the Mosel River. Promptly at 9:00 a.m. we began our walking tour of this 1,000 year old town with an informative lecture by our Program Director. We each received a €1 coin with instructions to purchase some bread on the local economy and to deliver it to the staff upon our return where it would be sliced and served at lunch. What fun! Many different kinds of breads were purchased and widely enjoyed with our lunch today.

 

After our tour of Cochem we were transferred by shuttle taxi to the top of the hill overlooking the town for a guided tour of the Reichsburg Castle built in the year 1,000. A castle tour guide gave an interesting lecture as we visited the various rooms of the restored historic building that also provided a lovely view of the city, the river and our River Harmony docked at the river’s edge. After being returned by the taxi shuttle to market square some light shopping took place before we walked back to the ship. Along the way we stopped at a mustard factory where we sampled various varieties before making some purchases of gift packaged in little stone jars.

 

We returned to the ship for yet another delightful lunch served buffet style highlighted by freshly made bread and butter pudding for dessert. At 3:00 p.m. we sailed from Cochem heading for a nearby stop at Ediger where we began our evening with German hosts who welcomed us to their home for dinner. We were first warmly greeted by the Burgermeister (Mayor) of Ediger and then by a member of our assigned family who hosted 10 passengers for a tour of their personal wine cellar and then a lovely home prepared dinner where their private wine label was served. Our family included the Oma (grandmother), mother and her 12 year old daughter. Mother and daughter were quite fluent in English and acted as translator for Oma. During our dinner our ship proceeded through the next lock and we were taken by bus to re-board in Zell, a few kilometers up the river, returning by 9:00 p.m. As we sailed for Trier a Karaoke sing-along was held by the ship’s staff in the lounge. Most seemed to find an early bed time attractive after a busy day and an early schedule for the next day.

 

Next: Trier and Luxembourg

[cmthomas]

Part 7 - Trier and Luxembourg

 

Day #7 - Wednesday. Weather: Dry and warmer. Looks like a nice day.

 

Our ship docked in Trier at 7:30 a.m. after sailing throughout the night. Breakfast time began at the earlier time of 6:30 a.m. as the tours of Trier began at 9:00 a.m. with a short bus ride to visit the Roman baths dating to 300 B.C. These ruins have been partially restored following World War II bomb damage and they provide an interesting look into the history of this part of the Roman Empire from the days of Emporer Augustus through the reign of the 12th century Germans and the 18th century French before returning control to Prussia in 1815. The city was the birth place of Karl Marx. One of the landmarks is the Roman gateway known as Porta Nigra due to the color of the sandstone of which it was constructed. Our local guide provided interesting commentary of other landmarks and we had about one hour of free time to walk the market area for any desired shopping before meeting the bus to return to the ship for lunch, if desired. For those not taking the optional (US$39) afternoon tour to Luxembourg a free shuttle bus to and from downtown was provided for the rest of the afternoon although the distance was easily walkable.

 

At 2:00 p.m. the optional tour to Luxembourg departed with a 40 minute bus ride that stopped first to visit the American Cemetery on the outskirts of the capital, also named Luxembourg. This 50 acre site is the final resting place of 5,076 American military personnel, including 2 Medal of Honor recipients, 22 brothers, 2 women and the commanding general of the Battle of the Bulge, General George C. Patton, who died after the war in an auto accident but had earlier specified that when he died he wished to be buried with his men.

 

We then proceeded into Luxembourg City driving by various government buildings and viewing the mountainous scenery upon which the city is constructed. Our local guide then took us on an informative walking tour of the outsides of various government buildings including the Grand Palace that is normally open for tours but today was closed due to a visit from the head of state of Portugal. We were fortunate to be in front of the palace when the Prime Minister of Luxembourg arrived and witnessed the Honor Guard snap to attention.

 

On reflection, the afternoon in Trier would have been nice. This optional tour was, in our opinion, not worth the cost.

 

The bus returned us to the ship by 6:30 p.m. in time for our pre-dinner daily Port Talk at 6:45 p.m. Dinner tonight was roast turkey with sweet potatoes and green beans or a fish dish. The food continues to be exceptional. After dinner we were entertained by 6 local young women who call themselves the "Prima Donnas". They sang German and American folk songs a capella and were quite the entertainers. We enjoyed their performance.

 

Next: Cruising the Mosel and Bernkastel.

[cmthomas]

Part 8 - Cruising the Mosel and Bernkastel

 

Day #8 - Thursday. Weather: Overcast early improving to warm and sunny by midday. Temps in the upper 60's. Off with the jackets and no umbrella needed today.

 

Our ship spent the night docked in Trier and sailed at 7:30 a.m. for the return voyage down the Mosel. Since there were no early morning tours the passengers were free to sleep in today if the so desired. Breakfast was the usual buffet. Beginning at 9:30 a.m. commentary over the public address system was provided in the lounge and on deck describing the sights as we passed along the river viewing almost vertical vineyards along the banks and the small towns that we passed. Local citizenry along the river banks exchanged waves from the passengers. The thought came to mind that "it doesn’t get much better than this" but wait — at 11:00 a.m. the ship conducted a "frühschoppen" which consists of servings of two types of wursts in tasty rolls, liverwurst and - most importantly - German tap beer for free! Everything was delicious. Of course, when it ended we had only one hour left until lunch!

 

After lunch we docked in Bernkastel, a small town along the Mosel of 8,000 inhabitants dating to at least 1277 when its castle was built. Bernkastel has a mild climate and is ideal for cultivating wine grapes and is known for its Rieslings. We walked just a few minutes with our Program Director to reach the city center while hearing an informative talk. After being shown around town we had an hour of free time before coming together again to attend a wine tasting of 4 varieties at a local vineyard’s wine cellar. After that we were free to be on our own until the ship sailed at 3:00 a.m., however everything in town closes by 6:30 p.m. and, after all, dinner of sour beef and dumplings was set for 7:00 p.m. If you haven’t already gathered, this has been and continues to be a fantastic trip! After dinner we were entertained in the lounge by a group of 10 young adults who did Folkloric dances to the great delight of all who attended.

 

Day #9 - Friday. Weather: Overcast in the morning but steadily improving throughout the day. Sunny afternoon and mild evening.

 

Today is our only day completely on the ship. A day of rest after a very active eight days. The Mosel is a very picturesque river with one lovely town after another. Commentary from the Program Directors was continued. Our progress was slowed at several locks along the way by barge traffic ahead of us. A guest lecturer joined us at a lock and his presentation about the wine industry in general and the Mosel region in particular was supplemented by comments on the local economy and the German political structure. It was 1 ½ hours worth spending. After lunch we continued to count down our remaining kilometers on this beautiful river while those interested attended a visit to the house of miracles — the galley! Have I mentioned the food? It is uniformly outstanding in variety, taste, presentation and service. I have not heard any complaints. The star item seems to be the variety and quality of the soups served at every lunch and dinner. At about 6:00 p.m. we rejoined the River Rhine at Koblenz having bright sun and the chance to photograph the famous monument located at that intersection of the two rivers. During dinner hour we arrived at Boppard where we will spend the night and visit the town on a walking tour in the morning.

 

A local musician came aboard at Boppard and played singing and dancing music in the lounge as evening entertainment.

 

Next: Boppard, the Lorelei and dinner ashore.

[cmthomas]

Part 9 - Boppard, the Lorelei and Dinner Ashore

 

Day #10 - Saturday. Weather: Magnificent! Able to sit out on deck. Temps in the upper 60's.

 

This morning was an early start as the ship had to sail by 10:30 a.m. to make our shore side dinner engagement on time. Promptly at 8:30 a.m. our walking tour into Boppard began. Our Program Director was, once again, armed with interesting stories and descriptions of various buildings as we walked along the riverside promenade for about 15 minutes into the Town Square. Prior arrangements had been made for some of the local merchants to open early to relieve us of our excess Euros. It appears that the favorite shopping place was The Christmas Store that was fully stocked with ornaments, Hummel and other attractive wares. We visited an old Roman wall unearthed as the city was building a new parking area. The archeologists won and the wall remains. The city also boasts several nice fountains. Everyone returned to the ship timely and we sailed precisely at 10:30 a.m. It is apparent that dinner plans occupy a higher priority than shopping!

 

We are now back on the Rhine River which is much busier than the Mosel. Soon after departing Boppard we entered into the area of castles that were the subject of commentary from the Program Directors to those on deck and in the lounge. The, as we approached the famous Lorelei Straits we were served complimentary champagne that had been colored to match our individual tour groups (yellow, red and blue). Thereafter it was time for another fabulous set lunch and another variety of the delicious soups that have been served. The fresh air of the morning on deck followed by the large meal resulted in many of us being badly in need of a nap! However, the scenery continued to be captivating and the eternal fight of the cruise passenger was waged. Nap, nod or struggle to see it all? A personal decision to each.

 

Then at 4:00 p.m. our gallant staff of cooks put on a "High Tea" with desserts and fruits to tempt all. We were assured that they were calorie free! At 6:30 p.m., right on time, we arrived at Nierstein where we docked to meet the buses to take us to dinner. And what a dinner it was! We traveled for 25-30 minutes to the nearby town of Bischofshien and the charming Restaurant Nack where our group was warmly received and escorted to the second floor banquet room. Our pre-ordered (pork, lamb or vegetarian) dinners began with the soup course of cream of mushroom followed by a generous portion of tender main course and ending with raspberries and ice cream for dessert. And, of course, in wine country we were served a glass of Rhine wine. After coffee we were returned to our buses and thence our ship by 10:00 p.m. where most, if not all, were ready to call it a day. Our ship spent most of the night docked in Nierstein and slipped quietly into the river traffic around 4:00 a.m. heading for our next stop in Worms.

 

Next: Worms and the Optional Vineyard Jamboree

[cmthomas]

Part 10 - Worms and the Optional Vineyard Jamboree

 

Day #11 - Sunday. Weather: Bright sun, blue sky and much warmer today.

 

Our day began with an early champagne breakfast as we have a lecture in the lounge at 8:30 a.m. A local guide dressed in medieval costume told the story of the Nibelungenlied from the early 13th century which was thoroughly entertaining. Thereafter we went by bus into Worms as the center of town was about a 20 minute walk which is not considered good preparation for a "walking tour" thereafter. We saw several monument commemorating the various stages of the history of Worms, the most important one possibly being the one to Martin Luther who made his declaration in 1521 to the Holy Roman Empire beginning what has become known as the Reformation when the Protestants separated from the Roman Catholic church. We also visited the Heitiger Sand that is Europe’s oldest preserved Jewish cemetery with tomb stones dating to 1067. There are 2,000 densely packed well worn tomb stones surrounded by beautifully kept vegetation and many eminent scholars are buried there. It has been closed to new burials since 1911.

 

We then visited the St. Peter Cathedral built between 1170 and 1230 but could not have an interior tour as services were being held on this Sunday morning. A great mixed choir from Berlin was performing today and as we caught the last bus back to the ship for lunch they were returning to their bus for the 8 hour journey home and provided us with an impromptu performance right on the parking lot! What a joy and surprise it was to hear their lovely voices. Our 6 minute bus ride brought us back for a Mexican Buffet lunch to prepare us for our optional (US$34) Vineyard Covered Wagon Tour to Freinshein.

 

After lunch we again boarded the bus for an afternoon at the Herbel Winery in Freinshein. Not that we were underfed at breakfast and not that our Mexican Buffet for lunch left anything to be desired, but we all seemed to enjoy our welcoming "kuchen" and coffee after our long bus ride of 30 minutes! Thereafter we had a few minutes to stroll around the quaint little town before entering the covered wagons pulled by 2 horses each that took us all around town and then out into the vineyards. Of course, these covered wagons were well supplied with the various wines produced by Herbel that we enjoyed along the way. As we traveled through the vines the driver stopped and secured for us several bunches of Pinot Noir grapes for the tasting. As we were visiting in the middle of harvest time the grapes were fully ripe and tasty. The wagon ride was 45 minutes long following which we returned to our buses for the trip back to the River Harmony. Even though our trip was in lovely, sunny weather I noted that the wagons had "isinglass curtains that roll right down in case there’s a change in the weather." This is useful to know as you must commit yourself to this option several days in advance making it difficult to forecast what weather you will have on your day of the trip. Recommendation: Take the trip. The other option is to return to Worms for more self guided sight seeing and I think we saw most of the highlights in the morning.

 

Tonight our Port Talk and dinner is earlier so that the staff can clean up and prepare for the Crew Show in the lounge after dinner. Prior to the Crew Show the Assistant Hotel Manager held a "fashion show" for 15 minutes which was simply a presentation of the clothing articles offered for sale on the ship. Immediately thereafter the Crew put on a cute but typical show considering that they are not professional entertainers. Hint: Just about every passenger attended so seats were at a premium. If this show interests you I would suggest that you plan on leaving the dinner table promptly, or even a little early, to get a good seat. Dancing to recorded music followed, however most passengers seemed intent upon getting a good night’s sleep.

 

Next: Baden Baden and the Black Forest

[cmthomas]

Part 11 - Baden Baden and the Black Forest

 

Day #12 - Monday. Weather: Morning fog on the river but a nice sunny day ahead. Temps to 80F.

 

We sailed from Worms around 7:30 p.m. last night and during breakfast this morning arrived in Greffern, Germany where we docked. Greffern is a small town along the river with no tourist interest. We immediately boarded buses for the trip to Baden Baden - the long way! Instead of using the Autobahn we took the back roads through small villages and eventually across a 2,800 foot mountain within the Black Forest. The ride took 1 ½ hours and was very scenic. Upon arrival at Baden Baden we were met by local guides who led walking tours of the old Roman Town founded in 76 A.D. Since the early 19th century the town has been popular for its thermal waters and their reported healing powers. A Frenchman, Jacques Benazet, saw the area as appealing for development in the late 1800's and brought gambling and horse racing to the area. He invested some of his profits in the community by building lovely public buildings, such as a Theater, for his gambling customers. It still offers a Casino open only in the afternoon and evening and requiring "proper" dress. It offers Baccarat, Poker, Blackjack and other card games of high style. Slot machines are not included but can be found in nearby hotels. We were provided with a taste of the "curing" waters during our visit and a little over an hour of free time for shopping in the well stocked shopping street before returning to our buses for the journey back to the ship via the Autobahn for a 1:00 p.m. lunch which coincided with our sailing for Strasbourg.

 

As we sailed away we were treated to a demonstration in the lounge of a Cuckoo Clock maker from the Black Forest who had numerous styles available for purchase with shipping available if you wish to spend €400-600. The quality of the product appears to be outstanding.

 

The rest of the day is devoted to enjoying the Sun Deck and the scenic views of the Rhine that is rapidly coming to a close. Late in the afternoon we dock in Strasbourg.

 

Next: Strasbourg and the Optional Riquewihr Tour.

[cmthomas]

Part 12 - Strasbourg and the Optional Riquewihr Tour

 

Day #13 - Tuesday. Weather: Delightful. Blue skies and the highs today in the 80'sF.

 

This will be another busy day. Our dock in Strasbourg is quite some distance from downtown. Estimated walking time is 30-40 minutes if you have no impediments and walk briskly. No problem! Our "walking tour" comes to us in the form of a tourist boat with a glass roof. The boat usually departs from the city center but since Grand Circle is taking the entire boat it came to collect us at our dock on the River Ill. The sightseeing lectures on board are furnished through headsets, some of which actually worked! The Captain’s response: "They were made in China!" Nevertheless, we did have all of the government and historical buildings that we passed described to us. The boat tour ended in the center of the city and our accompanying Program Directors gave us a 30 minute walking tour that was really an orientation of our location, the location of the Cathedral and the location where our buses would be located to return us to the ship for lunch departing at half hour intervals. Since we had booked the optional (US$19) afternoon tour to Riquewihr we returned on the first bus. Keep in mind that Strasbourg is a huge city with almost a half million inhabitants before you count the tourists. Those who were not going on the optional tour (about 1/3 of the passengers) had a complimentary shuttle provided throughout the rest of the day. Nice touch. If I was going to stay in Strasbourg for the free afternoon I would have researched the town more thoroughly before coming as there must be many interesting things you can do on your own.

 

After a quick lunch we boarded 2 buses promptly (just about everything runs promptly in this operation) for a 1 ½ hour ride into the Alsacean countryside. Our first stop was a stork re-introduction and conservation farm. Apparently this area is the summer home for storks. However, they are migratory birds that fly south for the winter to Africa. In order to disrupt their natural migratory instinct to preserve the species they have been raising babies on the farm for up to three years keeping them confined to aviaries to break the natural migratory pattern. This is necessary for their preservation as they were being killed and eaten in Africa.

 

Then we traveled a few kilometers to the — you guessed it — ancient Roman town of Riguewihr. Our Program Director took us on a walking tour up the main street pointing out the more interesting shops, especially those offering free samples of locally made macaroon cookies. This is a preserved medieval village dating to 1094 in the wine producing area of Alsace known as "the Wine Route" that runs about 100 miles. We were provided with one hour of free time to go shopping before returning to the bus for the ride back. We arrived at the ship, after experiencing Strasbourg’s rush hour traffic, close to 7:00 p.m. The sailors were standing by the lines as we arrived and as the last passenger reboarded the gangway was taken in and we were off to Basel. Our Port Talk tonight was at 7:15 p.m. and dinner at 7:30 p.m. due to the late tour return. Opinions about this optional tour ranged from "rip off" to "wonderful." We are somewhere in between. If I had it to do over I think I would research Strasbourg more carefully to see if there is something more to see there rather than spend so much time in a bus.

 

This evening was the Passenger Talent Show. Due to the late hour and the long day we passed up the opportunity and have heard nothing about it so we suspect that it was not attended by many people.

 

Next: Basel and Disembarkation

[cmthomas]

Part 13 - Basel and Disembarkation

 

Day #14 - Wednesday. Weather: Fair with occasional showers. Temps in the 60's.

 

After leaving Strasbourg late yesterday evening we sailed throughout the night with planned arrival in Basel early the next morning. There were still several locks to encounter and apparently, while we slept, there were lengthy delays at every one of them. When we arose in the morning expecting to be pulling into Basel we were still hours away. This caused the schedule to be revised and the morning walking tour was moved to the early afternoon and lunch was moved up to 11:30 a.m.

 

We docked midday at a wharf north of the city center in an area known as St. Johanns. To our great surprise, our walking tour was to be begun with a ride on the streetcar! Grand Circle presented each guest with a one day pass on the Basel transit system and our Program Directors escorted us from the ship to the streetcar making sure that we all got to where we were heading. Excellent instructions were given as to the number of stops before we were to get off. When we got into the city center we were met by our local guides who then took us on an abbreviated tour due to the late arrival. We visited the usual places such as the Cathedral and a few other public buildings that have already become lost in the memories. We were then given instructions on how to get back to the ship and released for our last day of last minute shopping. We managed to find a bookstore with a public Internet connection to check our email then made our way back to the ship to the dreaded task of packing.

 

The disembarkation was uncomplicated and handled well. Some people had to leave as early as 4:30 a.m. the next morning due to early check in procedures and many connections along their route. If there were only a few going at a specific hour they were sent by cab to the Basel Airport which is only 15 minutes away. Other larger groups were sent by bus at a more humane hour and everyone was required to be out of their cabin by 8:00 a.m. so that it could be prepared for the incoming passengers. There was ample accommodations in the lounge and basically by 10:00 a.m. most passengers were gone. Those taking the post-trip tour to Lucerne left around 9:00 a.m. accompanied by a Program Director.

 

It is easy to see why Grand Circle restructured the itinerary to get the ship into Basel one day earlier. Had we been on the old itinerary there would have been some nervous airline passengers concerned about making their flights.

 

As we bid the River Harmony farewell at the gangway for the last time we reflected upon a two week experience that would be hard to beat. This trip was as good as any we have taken and we highly recommend it to those who can undertake a very busy schedule with a good bit of walking.

 

Finis!

 

Clarence

[jowahe]

Thank you for your wonderful report, Clarence. I was debating between this cruise and the Great Rivers cruise and finally decided on the latter for May/June 2005, but will consider your cruise for future years. By the way, the 2005 Great Rivers cruise now has several "optional" tours that used to be part of the regular itinerary. Do you have any feeling pro or con on the excursions that are now optional? I don't want to spend additional $$ for options that aren't worth seeing. I know this is subjective, but would like your input if you have strong feelings pro or con. Were the 3 program managers all of equal caliber?

[jdrblue]

Clarence, thanks for the great post. We are leaving in five weeks for our first river cruise, Christmas on the Rhine. You have us even more excited now.

[cmthomas]

Jowahe, I am not ignoring your request. I am trying to review my notes and give you a cogent reply. Please bear with me for a few days. Clarence:)

[invetarate sailor]

Clarence:

 

Thank you for your cruise description. We will be taking the same cruise starting 4/14/05. Like you we will be making our own air arrangements. You Brussels to Antwer trip was very helpful. Do you have any knowledge as to how best to get from Basel cruise terminal to Zurich Airport - probably cab to railway station & train to airport? Any suggestions will be appreciated.

 

Thanks

[Carhut]

Thanks Clarence for such an interesting and thorough review. I enjoyed reading it. Hope to make that trip someday. Last year it was Great Rivers, and this year it's Eastern Europe to the Black Sea.

[cmthomas]

Hi Sailor,

 

Sorry to be so long answering but we are currently on a trip to Machu Picchu and the Galapagos. Using a hotel computer!

 

I would suggest that you simply ask your guide on the trip to see if he/she can find a seat for you on the bus to the airport. I was picking up a rental car at the airport so my wife stayed on the ship and waited for me to collect the car and return to get her and the luggage rather than haul everything on the bus. I would not even raise the issue of cost unless they bring it up first. My bet is that you will ride for free!

 

If you are departing by air that won't be an option but they will certainly take care of getting you there in time for your flight. BUT, just in case I am wrong or the policy has changed, it is a very short distance. No more than 20 minutes by cab. Because of the luggage I would not consider using public transport. Streetcars and buses can be rather crowded and the time element would be at least tripled.

 

The dock where we disembarked was north of Basel which is in the direction of the airport so that helps. I have no idea of the cost of a cab but remember that you will be in Switzerland so Euros will not be the currency you need. You will have some time there after docking to become acclimated and find out if you need to convert any funds.

 

My feeling is that you will receive the same answer that we did when inquiring, "no problem"! But make sure that you ask the question BEFORE tip time to gain added incentive to keep you happy!

 

You are REALLY going to have a great trip! It is one of the best that we have had and Grand Circle does a fine job.

 

Clarence

[invetarate sailor]

Hi Clarence:

 

I hope you had a good time in the Galapagos & Macchu Pichu. That was probably the best trip I have done ,what with the walking & climbing one has to do if they want to see anything.

 

Regarding my question: Iam flying back from Zurich not Basel. I just wanted to know how far the train station is so as estimate the travel time to the station by cab so we know which train to book on.

 

I hope the trip is as enjoyable for us as it was for you

 

Sailor