Transatlantic Port Reviews March 14-April 1, 2009

[mountainmare]

Warning--this will be long. I will write the short form in the review section, and talk about the ship on the HAL board.

We just returned from an 18-day TA on the Oosterdam, sailing in a wonderful aft cabin. I don't think anything can truly prepare you for your first crossing, even experienced cruisers and people comfortable with European travel approach the idea of actually crossing the ocean with a combination of excitement and a bit of unease.

our ship was supposed to leave Fort Lauderdale at 5, we were well into our late seating dinner after 8 when someone mentioned that we might be moving, a bit of a letdown after hoping that we would be leaving to with great celebrations--bells and horns from the condos and were to be captured on inletcam.

Our first stop was HAL's Half Moon Cay--we got there very late but it was a perfect day and the captain let us stay on the island an extra hour. At 7:30 we were treated to the space shuttle launch--and our aft balcony had the best view.

Next we had seven (yes seven) straight days at sea. For all seven days the weather was warm and sunny and the sea like glass. People were usung the aft pool and the lido pool roof was open. The captain annunced that he was taking a more southern route to avaid any bad weather. Honestly--everyday--PERFECT!!

Now onto the ports--we stopped at Funchal, Madeira Lisbon Cadiz Mallorca Barcelona Monaco(not Villefranche) Livorno and spend some time post cruise in Rome after disembarking at Civitavecchia.

[mountainmare]

I love the sea, ships and cruising but honestly, after seven straight days at sea if the captain had announced we were skipping Funchal I would have jumped off the ship and swam to Madeira!

The plan was to walk to town, take the 31 bus to the botanical gardens...see flowers...take the little cable car to Monte...ride the sleds then either taxi or walk back to town and explore.

We walked to town along the sea--beautiful gardens along the way--and by marina where the cafes are there was a tourist kiosk offering a special price to the botanical gardens. For 15e you got bus to and from the gardens, entrance to the gardens, cable car round trip to Monte. This did save some money and was close to the original plan, I asked about the sleds and the girl told me to just take the bus back to Monte and the cable car and bus back to town if we wanted to.

The bus stop was less that a block from the kiosk--to the left as you face town. We took 31A to the top of the garden. What an introduction to Europe and public transportation for our rural farmer friends. The bus was packed--we had to stand and it was like an amusement park ride. Every street a hairpin turn and it seemed like we had a madman driving the bus, at every stop more people squished in. Now in a situation like this you have two choices--start to laugh and think what fun, or get scared and complain. The better option is to have fun.

Finally we reached our destination. We had to exchange our tickets from the kiosk for garden and cable car tickets at the cable car office (this is where the bus leaves you--or you leave the bus). Then the entrance to the garden is right outside.

The gardens are indeed beautiful and for those escaping winter all the flowers were a treat. Pictures just cannot do justice to the views, I had looked up pictures before we left and noticed everyone took the same view--that's because it is beautiful!! Do be aware that this is on the side of a mountain and you are not on level ground. The walkways are made of small cobblestones laid in patterns (this is true in town also) and are interesting to see. I knew there were birds and was not too enthused about seeing them. the birds are birds--pretty birds--in cages, but there are free range peacocks wandering around, both regular and white peacocks. It was spring and they were in love--always a good thing for tourists with cameras. While we were in the gardens there was an elementary school chorus competition (or concert) with groups of kids singing, a neat extra for the day.

We then took the little cable car from the gardens to Monte--it is above top entrance to the gardens--and got right on. This goes over a ravine and you can see walking paths and waterfalls. A nice modern smooth ride. The cable car lets you off a little below Monte and the main cable car. We followed the walkway up and saw a pretty little chapel along the way. Again--the views are magnificent.

We hike up to Monte and our friends opted to go back to get the cable car abd bus back to town. Funchal does require walking on hills. We continue to walk--taking a detour to the right to se another little chapel and tea room and notice trucks loaded with the wicker sleds racing by. We reach the sled ride corner but decide to explore before going on what could be our final ride.

We climb the steps to see the Church of Our Lady of Monte. On all of these churches are beautiful scenes done with blue and white tiles. Inside the church is a gorgeous painted wooded ceiling...and outside yet another view. I had a goal of trying estepata--grilled beef--at this stop. We passed a few eating places and saw one where the sled drivers were hanging out. There are little slots on the outside walls where they put their straw hats all in a row--we decide to try this place and climb the steps to the diningroom. WE start with some of the best garlic bread I've ever had (mabe it tasted good after eight days of only ship food) and I order my luch while DH just wants traditional tomatoe soup. The portions are HUGE, the bill--with beers was less than 20e.

[mountainmare]

Fortified we were ready for the sledges. First, there is not really that much to them, just a chair for two and a low rail to brace your feet. Two drivers push, pull and steer the sled with ropes. Now ladies...these sleds are driven by strapping young men in nice white outfits and snappy straw hats. The run down the mountain for a living...need I say more? Take the sled ride.

We got to the end of our ride and asked about the bus. Bus #19 stops a little way from the sleds and takes you right back into Funchal. This is a much better option than either taxi or walking. When you get off the sled facing downhill turn right. There is a little souvenir stand, the bus stop is right across the street. This bus was also driven by a madman. We then just walked around town taking in the sights and went back to the ship. Later we went out and climbed the little fort by the pier. It was a fun day in Funchal.

 

Nice to knows:

The ship charges $8pp for a roudtrip to town. Taxis at the peir charged 7.5e for a ride to town.

We asked about a cab to the Gardens when we got off--it was 20e, tried a few down the line and it was always 20e. In hindsight we should have taken the cab to the gardens and saved time waiting for the bus. This would have made the start of the day easier on our friends and would have been worth the money.

If you ride the sleds consider getting the picture--you get the picture and a CD of Madieran music for 10e--and it is worth it for the silly look on your face (and the guys in the cool white suits)

If you ride the sleds take the bus back to town, we met people who are in very good shape and walked down. It is very steep and a leg and knee killer.

Other cruise critics took StrawberryWorld Tours--some took the East and some the West. Everyone was pleased with this tour.

I didn't talk to anyone who took a ship tour.

 

We left at 11 at night-- with binoculars we could see the church on Monte all lit up--and we saw a plane land at the crazy airport.

 

Budget:

Bus/Garden/Cable Car combo 15e/pp 30e

Sled 28e (25 plus tip)

Picture 10e

Lunch 18e

Stuff 9.5e

 

Total: 96e

[mountainmare]

Sorry about the typos--I turned spell check back on.

We were supposed to pick up the pilot at the Belem Tower at around 5am and dock by 7. We are to be in port only 7-4. I hear the engines change and decide it would be great to see the Belem Tower and Monument lit up so make my way up to the front of the ship. don't bother getting out of bed, they are not lit up!

We docked at Rhoca des Obidos which is a little closer to town. We lest the ship a bit before 8 and walked across the pedestrian drawbridge and across the railroad tracks to a bus/tram stop. We were planning on taking the 15E tram or 28 bus to town but another bus comes and it goes into the city so we hop on. I have pictures of what the main square looks like but it is all covered by construction so I don't recognize it. Anyway we stay on until the bus comes to a large plaza --the last stop and get off at Paca de Pedro and this actually works out better.

We want a 1-colinas card and ask at a newsstand. He directs us to a little store close to the Placa and buy our card--for 4e you can ride all the trams trolleys buses and even the elevator all day.

We had passed the elevator on our search for the card and decided to take it before there were crowds. We get right on and take this neat iron and wood fancy car to the next level of the city--you just walk out and into a neat square with benches and a fountain.

This city is unlike anything I have seen. The sidewalks are beautifully patterned (and slippery) and many of the buildings are covered with colorful old tiles. There seem to cooling parks and fountains everywhere. people are friendly and helpful. the pace is slower than most big cities.

We wander--there is great coffee(very strong) and pastries--beautiful displays--and find ourselves back down from the hills sides and close to the train station. I see trolley #12 and we hop on for a ride through tiny street and pass trolley 28 a few times. We get off at an overlook close to the castle (the driver tells us where to get off and how to find the castle) and find more beautiful gardens and a fabulous view of the river and city.

Climbing through tiny streets we get to the castle--on the way we see the most unusual sign ever. On a corner there is an iron sign of a man peeing, below the sign is just a curved iron screen--and a urinal. I just thought I'd share.

We climb to the castle and enter--this is worth seeing. The grounds and views are ...well by now you can fill in the blank...it is just so peaceful. And there are cats--happy cats--friendly cats. And peacocks and nesting peahens. Climbing the walls is an experience not to be missed (well--if you are afraid of heights you may think twice about it). As we were walking out we see a group of young children learning abut the castle from a real knight.

[mountainmare]

We took a tiny bus from the castle to town and then caught the 15E tram to go to Belem. On the way we did take note of our stop for the ship--something we should have done when we left in the morning. There are several stops for Belem--we pass through the modern section, pass the blue awnings of the famous pastry shop and get off near the monastery.

First we walk down to block to get pastry and coffee--yes they really are that good!!! They are different from other pastry, get you Belem pastry at the official Belem pastry shop--the one with the blue awning.

We go to the monestary and spend quite a bit of time looking at the amazing stonework in the cloisters. Since we did not stop in the church on our way in entering the choir loft on the second floor takes us by surprise. The light is just right for everything to glow. Leaving the monestary and by now getting tired in spite of the high test espresso we just had to walk over to the Monument of Discoveries. It is huge and for me seeing the map of the world after having just sailed across the ocean had more meaning. We look toward the Tower of Belem and sadly say-"next time" and head back to tram 15E.

Our stop is Casis de Rocha and as we approach we got up and pushed the white "get off" button. I was stuck in a crowd and as I got off the door closed on me and I was trapped--this happened to me in Naples too--I just have to learn to get off faster I guess. So word to the wise--push and get off fast!!!

This was a good day and Lisbon is a beautiful city. Our sailaway at four was spectacular with the light just right to see the Monument of Discoveries and the Tower of Belem shining in the sunshine.

 

Nice to Knows:

THE PORT PROVIDED A FREE BUS TO TOWN!!!

This was mentioned in passing (very quickly) in the port talk. Our tablemates found out about it by accident when they got off the ship and someone asked if they wanted the free bus to town. ASK IF YOU HAVE A FREE BUS!!!

The 7-colinas card for 4e is a good deal.

Don't worry about getting lost--you will get lost, there is nothing you can do about it--but you will see amazing sights.

 

Budget:

7-colina 4e/pp 8e

castle 5e/pp 10e

pastry 2.65e

stuff 9e

monestary 6e/pp 12e

 

Total: around 45e

[mountainmare]

"One of the best days of my life" This is how one of our fellow cruise critics described this day.

I am a dressage rider, I own a dressage horse, my husband is a dressage rider. I had to see the Royal Equestrian School and the Spanish horses that are the beginning of my sport.

So when planning this trip I knew we could get tickets for the show on line and would be docking at 10--but have to be at the ticket window by 11 to get the tickets...so getting to Jerez in time was a problem. I could find no info here for private drivers and went to trip advisor with just a little more success. After contacting some leads I had resigned myself to hoping for a taxi in port to get us to Jerez in time...and then Angela contacted me. She and her husband have a B&B in the area and in desperation I had contacted them--they agreed to pick us up and take us to Jerez giving us a tour of the area for the day. We were a group of five people and after many e-mail exchanges I had a good feeling about the day.

We got off the ship as soon as possible and Angela was waiting for us. We promptly set out for Jerez--she had made a dry run before this day to find the fastest route to the school in case we were delayed and had been to the school to explain that we were coming on a cruise ship. We drove through the newer part of Cadiz and then quickly made our way to Jerez. On the way she gave some history of the area and because our interest was in farming and of course the horses explained local farms and crops.

We were in Jerez early and took a drive through the city to see where the famous horse fair is held and she told us about all the festivals and what they are like and then we parked very close to the school. Angela went with us to the ticket window (the one with no line) and explained who we were, we picked up the tickets and left Angela--agreeing where to meet after the show.

As we walked through the grounds we noticed horses being schooled in the warm-up ring and went over to watch. The palace tour was extra money--you could go into the harness shop and see the tack--we basically watched the horses.

We made our way to the seats for the show and we had the best seats in the house!!! If you are a dressage person we were in the front row just a bit the side of the judge. The performance exceeded all expectations. I have seen the Lipizzaners in Vienna and these horses were more free--more like modern dressage instead of Baroque with much bigger movement--ok enough dressage I get on with it.

After dropping money at the gift shop we found Angela waiting for us basically saying "your carriage awaits". On her previous trip to Jerez she had talked to some of the carriage drivers and asked me if we were interested in a carriage ride--then she made arrangements with a specific driver in advance. Angela came with us and translated which made the driver chatty--especially when he found out we were horse people not just tourists. With him talking and Angela translating the streets of old Jerez came alive. Our driver lives in the old city, his horse (Romeo) is stabled on the ground floor and the family lives above. Everyone knew him and yelled "Hola!" from every street. We stopped at a tiny bogoda and the driver ran over to get us sherry which was dipped out of a barrel with a silver dipper. So we tasted (and tasted and tasted some more) while the owner kept saying free free try some. Yes a purchase was made. We passed a flamenco school and learned about different forms of the dance. When our ride came to an end to say goodbye Romeo did a nice levade in harness--ya gotta love those Spanish horses!!!

[mountainmare]

But the day wasn't over!!! We walked a bit through the old city past the church . Seating boxes were being set up for the Easter processions, Angela explained what Easter is like in Spain, it sounds fascinating with the processions and then the celebrations. Fially we were at the Alcaza--an ols Moorish fortress. Angela had asked if we had ever seen a camera obscura and suggested that this would be something we would enjoy. I wanted to see the Alcaza anyway so she found out when we could fit this in and we had perfect timing.

The grounds and gardens of the fort smelled wonderful because the oranges were in bloom, I don't know why more people don't come to see this. When we went in Angela explained who we were and got us "pensioners discounts" We went onto the Arab Baths which were stunning--the ceiling has stars cut into it so there are sunbeam stars on the walls and the floor.

Then we went into the old pharmacy and climbed upstairs for the camera obscura. This is one of the niftiest gadgets I have ever seen, it was designed by Da Vinci and is a series of mirrors that reflect things outside onto a concave disk. By moving the mirrors and disk you can see outside--and even pick things up. our "guide" picked up some people that were walking down the street on a piece of paper.

As we were leaving I hear someone say "mountainmare" This was a person on tripadvisor (Monica) who had offered to try to help me with the ticket office because she works in Jerez--the internet is a wonderful thing, to meet someone face to face half a world away!!!

We decided to return to Cadiz and skip going to a large sherry place. Angela took a different route back--we saw flamingos on the salt flats and saw where she live in a little village in the distance. We drove past the beaches which look lovely and through more of the old Cadiz--stopping at a castle where we explored and saw some art work.

Angela asked if anyone wanted to be dropped at the ship--we all decided we would walk through Cadiz instead so she drove us to a central location and gave us maps and directions to the Cathedral and how to get back from the ship from there. Sadly we said our goodbyes. When I think about this wonderful day and how flexable and giving Angela was I know I will return. I am usually a DIY public transportation person--but I never would have enjoyed this port as much as I did.

We walked through the old city--stopping in front of the Cathedral for tapas and wine--then made our way back to the ship.

 

Nice to knows:

I talked to people who took the ship tour to the horse show and they did not enjoy the tour.

ALWAYS ask for a senior discount--sometimes its 60 sometimes 65--this time I said I was retired and got the discount. Sometimes it is only for EU citizens, sometimes not. The same for students or teachers. If you are a student or have kids get the school to give you a student ID card--sometimes it works, sometimes not.

There are nice beaches here and even in March people were on them.

Cadiz itself would be an enjoyable day.

Ask me if you need info on Angela and Paul.

[mountainmare]

Budget for Cadiz:

Angela ...I can't remember about 90e for two people.

carriage 25e

gift shop 55e

tapas and wine 12e

camera obscura 6e

Less than 200e---but I had my horse show tickets in advance for 24e/pp

[mountainmare]

After leaving Cadiz we headed for the Straits of Gibraltar--getting there around midnight. Oh well any excuse for a party. We are all in the Crow's Nest--see what we think is a blob outside (the captain is iffy about exactly when we'll pass through). We run outside, the sea is churning--a passenger with bagpipes plays what I can only assume is an appropriate tune..I do my part by singing the Prudential insurance song. There are seasick bags by the elevators--we are told that the seas will get rough in this area---a good time is had by all.

Remember all the smooth seas and warm sunny weather of the Atlantic--not so in the Med. Rainy and very rough seas.

I had planned on taking the Sollar train in Mallorca but we woke up to rain--we were cleared early and I would have been able to make the train. So we decided to explore Palma...yep I had a good map sent to me by the Spanish tourism board.

We took our time getting off the ship and caught bus 1 right outside the terminal and since it was still raining decided to go to the indoor market first so we took the bus to Placa d'Espanya. There is nice user friendly signage in this city and the market was easy to find. It is beautiful and the produce, meats fish were displayed in an artistic manner--as is the case in most markets we have seen. We slowly start to explore, just enjoying ourselves. There are flower vendors on the Rambles and a photography exhibit on LaBorn. We slip into a beautiful little church and when we come out the sun is shining. Our friends have an afternoon tour so we start to search for bus1 back to the ship. We walk down a large seaside boulevard lined with huge palm trees and come to a familiar corner--we see bus number 1 going in the wrong direction--and figure if it has a stop on one side of this street it must have a stop going the other way. We cross the street and head toward town and we see bus1 stop about a block away. there is just a post for this bus stop and you have to wave to the bus to make it stop. the bus comes about every 15 min. so the next bus comes, we wave--it stops and our friends go back to the port. By now the sun is shining and it is a beautiful day.

In search of a WC we stop in the large modern art museum and see some fellow cc members having a cappuccino break. They had walked from the ship--we decide to join forces and explore the cathedral and Arab Baths. With the signs all around it is easy to find our way and the Cathedral is HUGE--it's not like you'll miss it. The inside towers above you and the Gaudi windows are a surprise in the gothic building. Leaving the church we are in search of the baths--after Jerez I am eager to see these because they are more well known.

Save your 4e--the "stars" have been cut out of the ceiling and there are pillars but these baths are nowhere near as nice as Jerez--the garden isn't as nice either.

We walk around the cathedral along the lake to get back to the bus stop walking along the palm tree promenade. As we are walking some other cruise passengers ask if we are walking back to the ship--when we tell them about the bus they join the merry little parade. We're feeling Pied Piperish.

The bus comes, we get on but we do make a mistake getting off. The bus stops at a bridge that leads to the port--we get off here, we should have stayed on since the bus made a loop closer to the terminal.

This was a nice port--I'm glad I saw the cathedral but the rainy start put a damper on things.

Nice to knows:

Take city bus#1. You get on at the bus stop that is right outside the terminal. Cost is 1.25e If you are going to the Cathedral get off the bus after it turns away from the sea--the stop is by a big park and you see what looks like a big fort to your right (this is the museum--WC if you need one). If you are taking the Sollar Train stay on until Placa d'Espanya.

Our friends took a ship tour that went to the cathedral and castle. they liked it.

 

Budget:

bus tickets 1.25/pp 5e

cathedral 4e/pp 8e

baths 2e/pp 4e

stuff 11e

 

Total 28e

[mountainmare]

After a night of very heavy seas and gale force winds (hey isn't this the Med? shouldn't this be calm and warm?) we wake up to rain and--noise. The NCL Jade's nose is almost in our cabin! They seem to have more announcements than HAL--just an observation since we could hear every one!

ANYWAY its raining and Sunday and the first day of European Daylight Savings Time (yes another spring forward). I had planned on getting to the Sagrada when it opened and taking the elevator to the towers--but it is really raining so we take our time and then go get the port "blue bus" In line for the bus we see someone with USD in their hand--some of us are smug and say doesn't he know this is Europe. Last laugh is on us when he pays for the bus in USD and we're using our expensive Euros! (Really, it is 3 euros--I think he was lucky)

We start to ramble the Rambla and stop at some of the flea markets that are set up--even in the rain, and the flower stands are open as are the bird stands--this time they also have bunnies. I have somehow always missed taking pictures of the umbrella building and make up for it this time. The weather brightens a bit and the coin dealers are in Placa Reill and we find our hotel--the Jardi and enjoy the art show in Placa del Pi.

Since it is Sunday my other goal was to see the Sardana dancers we go to the cathedral--plenty of people but no dancers, we enjoy the area--walk through twisted alleys and get lost the way we always do. We decide to go look at the seaside and find a huge modern shopping center.

Now the ship made a big deal that this was Sunday and all the stores and shops would be closed--NOT SO!!!

The main department store and large stores in the city are closed--but the Rambles vendors are open as are the little shops, this shopping center is open and the eating places are all open--the neat market is closed, but there is alot to do in Barcelona on a Sunday.

We go back to the ship--happy to have visited one of our favorite cities--even if it was raining.

 

Nice to knows:

The HOHO bus stops right at the Columbus Monument where the port bus leaves you off making that an easy option--but reports were that it was crowded this day.

Our friends took a ship tour and HATED it--the guide left a man behind at the first stop (his wife yelled leave without him--its alot of days on a ship I guess) and left the HAL escort up at the fort even after everyone on the bus yelled not wait. Someone else in a different group of the same tour (they picked up the HAL escort) was also unhappy.

The HOHO bus gets crowded--especially when you can only use the downstairs part of the bus. The metro is easy to use and taxis are easy to find. Our table mates used a combo of taxi and metro and were fine.

Other tablemates went to Casa Batllo and enjoyed the house. Like us they had toured some of the other Gaudi buildings before and found this building worth seeing--we're planning on a visit next time.

 

Budget:

Port bus 3e/pp 6e

Key chain 3e

 

Total 9e

[mountainmare]

We were supposed to be tendered but because we had more passengers than the Prinsendam we docked in Monaco, I did notice that the Prinsendam passengers were let off in the same general location as our ship.

After very rough seas we woke up to a cloudy rainy cool morning--bummer--no bus 112 for me the clouds completely covered the mountains.

We were joining forces with some cc members and planning on taking the train to Nice--I had a very nice map from the Monaco tourism board and felt that getting to the train station would be easy. We were squeezed into a tiny parking place surrounded by huge yachts--from our balcony we could look into the Lady Moura. We got off the ship and walked around the marina--looking at the nice yachts and nice cars--I mean REALLY nice. We saw signs for the train station at the end of the marina near the race course--they are brown and say "gare--SNCF" We follow the signs and on the way we did pass the bus stop for the 100 and 112, but wanted to take the faster train. We take a series of tunnels and get to the station and buy one way tickets, thinking that if it clears up we might take the bus back. The train ride is fast and pretty and soon we are in Nice. When you exit the station turn left and you will find the TI office. We went in and got a map and directions to the historic center. We walked to a modern tram that took us near the sea--it costs 1e and we got to the stop and there are machines to buy the tickets, we were confused and for a tip a nice guy bought or tickets--seemed like a good idea at the time, but it would be a problem later.

The tram was clean and fast--soon we were in the historic part of the city, we made a gelato stop and went to find the antique market (it was Monday)--it would have been nicer on another day when this was a flower market--but hey we're in Nice stop complaining. We wandered a bit and went out to walk the Promenade--the sun was coming out and the sea was pretty. We promenaded and found a park with a neat two story carousal. Nice is a beautiful city --it has that French flavor and interesting architecture, the opera house is stunning as are the large buildings bordering the promenade--but they are painted in wonderful riviera colors. We buy stuff and have an espresso break, along with a piece of pie--the coffee came with a glass of orange juice--strange but DH liked it.

We decide to take the tram back to the train station--this is where our helpful little guy this morning came to haunt us. Nobody paid attention to how to work the machine this morning. I could not figure out how to buy four tickets--or one ticket--finally I was buying the tickets one by one and ordered two tickets and couldn't cancel--the crowd had started to grow and grow impatient with the idiot who could not figure out the machine. Finally one person did agree to buy my extra ticket and we were on the tram. We parted company--our friends went to shop and we went in search of the Russian church. As we were walking I had my doubts about this adventure, but was rewarded when we did find it. the tile work was glistening in the sunshine and the onion domes just surprising here.

Reluctantly we made our way back to the train and Monaco.

[mountainmare]

On returning to Monaco--armed with my map I thought we could exit the train station using the long tunnel--see the palace and cathedral--take various forms of transportation or elevators--get to see the casino and back to the ship. BUT--it seemed all of Monaco is under construction--I was met with can't get there from here. Frustrated we walked down to the marina and decided to at least see the casino and the view from that area. Again we would follow signs only to have our way blocked. We were about to give up when we met passengers from the Prinsendam who told us that they had just run into the same problem but that they found a way and told us where the closest elevator was. Indeed it was worth the effort, we passed expensive shops and expensive cars and were rewarded with beautiful views and pretty gardens. Making our way back down we took the little Bateaux Bus back across the marina and finally got to our balcony--popping open an appropriate beverage as we lounged on our huge aft balcony.

One thing I had always wanted to see was the Trophe of the Alps in La Turbie. Our friends took a ship tour and returned--I had asked her to take pictures for me. She said--well you can see it from here--its on top of that hill--and yes you can see it from the marina.

 

Nice to knows:

There is a TI desk in the terminal building where you dock--if you tender the building will be in front of you.

The elevators are not always obvious--so it would help to have a map--or ask the TI people to help you plan a route and help you with local buses.

This is a wonderful area, there are so many things to see you will have to pick and choose. If you are DIY person don't try to do too much, last time we tendered into Villefranche, we only went to Eze (well we walked down) and then explored VF and went to the beach. Next time--depending on the weather I may try to get to the Trophe up close--or Menton.

Other friends took a private tour and loved it.

Our travel mates took the ship tour of a bus panorama and loved it.

 

Budget:

train 12e

snack 7e

tram 4e

bateaux bus 4e

stuff (main gift stop) 74e

 

111e

[mountainmare]

More to come tomorrow--feel free to ask any questions.

[painfree]

Hi..

 

First, thanks for the wonderful port review..It's been another wonderful resource for me..We are on the Ruby Princess TA leaving Fort Lauderdale on April 18th..I was very interested in your comments on the weather during your crossing..We will be visiting Madeira...plan to take the toboggon ride following our tour with Daniel's Cab..Our stay in Madeira is short...2p-8p..but will make the most of our time..Madeira will be celebrating their Annual Flower Festival on the 25-26...we will miss the parade which is on Sunday but will have an opportunity to view the floral exhibits on Saturday..

 

We also will visit Cadiz..but plan to take the train to Seville as our port time is 14 hours..I wanted to visit the riding academy but there isn't a show on Mondays..Another port we visit is Monte Carlo..very short visit..7am-2pm..on a Sunday..this is a tendered stop and we planned to visit the Cathedral/Princess Grace tomb and her garden..I've read about the elevators but haven't seen a map for locations near the cruise pier..Any suggestions you have would be greatly appreciated..My sister and I are DIY..Well..actually, I am the DIYer..she's my follower...

 

Thanks again..

Carol..A fellow Pennsylvanian who currently lives in Kentucky...

[FritzG]

We're also on the Ruby TA on April 18th. Thanks for the information about the ports; it was very helpful. I hope we have beautiful sea days like you did.

I'll be looking forward to more of your postings.

[travelwide]

Hi Mountainmare! Jim and Alma here. We were part of the CC group on the ship. You are doing a wonderful job of describing each of the ports we visited. Keep up the good work.

 

I am ready for another one already!!!!!

[Donyb]

Thanks for the wonderful report Mountainmare. We are also on the Ruby 4/18 and your insights to some of the places we will be are appreciated. We want the weather TA that you had!!

[mountainmare]

Carol--

Check with Daniel for the hours of the toboggan ride so that you don't miss it.

Also in Monaco--your plan of just doning the Palace area is a good one. The easiest way to do this is to take the local bus (I think #1 or #2) which stops by the port. Usually they run all the time--but you are on a Sunday--with a ship in port the TI SHOULD be open. There is an elevator that will take you up--but not right to the palace. This is at the end of the marina--climb up on little level and it is to your left. The bus (if running) is a better option.

[painfree]

Mountainmare..

 

Thanks so much for the information..Do to our short port time in Monte Carlo, I wanted to maximize our experience..A visit to the Palace/Cathedral/Gardens will easily fill our time..and still give us the opportunity to bask in the 'glitz and glitter' of the French Riviera..

 

Eusebia, Daniel's wife, has included time for the toboggon ride into our tour..Also, she has shared info on the Flower Festival..which in turn I've shared with our roll call..

 

A couple members from our roll call have found your review and appreciate the work and information you've shared..We are hoping for the same weather system you experienced to follow us across the 'pond'...

 

Thanks again,

Carol

[mountainmare]

When we woke up I had forgotten just how ugly this port is--I mean really really ugly. Today we planned to team up with another cc couple and make our way to Lucca. I try to get off early to say Hi to Fabrizio -- a wonderful guide we met several years ago who will be taking our friends to Florence but they won't let me off.

Our plan today is to train to Lucca--bike and explore, bus back to Pisa--take another silly picture of the Tower, then train back to Livorno. We are not overly rushed for time and plan on the 9:11 train. We get off the ship and the main crowds of people have already gone so a cab driver says fine to taking us to the station--until another couple comes up and wants a day tour to Pisa and Florence--we are dropped like hot potatoes and told to walk to the end of the dock and get another cab. We go to the main cab line--there are lots of cabs and get one to take us to the station--20e which we split. Easy ride, he tells us where to get a cab to go back, and to just ask for the ship by name. We buy our tickets, the lady writes down the times for connections and we are ready to go. By the way the train station is sort of pretty in an Italian train station sort of way. We get to the train station in Pisa--check the board for the track to Lucca--no problem--it says track number 1. While we are checking the board one person asks at the info desk--he says track 1 Ovest. We're saying how hard can it be--the station is pretty small--so we wait at track 1. We notice a train coming at about the right time and it pulls into a smaller track over to the right side of the main platform--sure enough this is track 1 Ovest--where you catch the train to Lucca.The train ride is pretty--we catch a glimpse of the Tower and Duomo from the other Pisa station--I had looked up a way to walk to this station since it is so close--but have never been able to figure it out. Then the ride took us through classic Tuscan countryside, the tall trees, green hills, Tuscan colored farms and villas--just wonderful. We arrive in Lucca at 10:17.

We know Lucca inside the walls is a Medieval village and since the train station looks clean we decide to take advantage of a WC here. We enter--it is clean and when we open the tall stall doors we start to laugh--yep it is the two marble footprints on the floor style toilet. Not I'm used to barns and going in horse stalls (this may be TMI) but the difference is that horse bedding doesn't splash--and then when you flush there is way too much water and way too much water pressure!!! I've never seen such pressure ---or gotten so wet!!! Oh yes--and you turn on the sink with a foot pedal on the floor--I just want everyone to not be confused when you go there.

That adventure over we headed for the walls--walking along until we found a way in. We didn't find a gate (that would be too normal), instead we found a little tunnel. We emerged up on the wall and it was neater that I expected, spring flowers were just blooming and it was--well it was just so green and fresh and pretty. We walked along the top until we saw a gate (the way normal people enter the city) and a small TI booth. We got maps and directions to a bike rental place. We were excited--I had been planning this for a long time and we were finally here!!!

Getting out bikes we were also given locks in case we would go inside somewhere and were shown how to get up on the walls. We were so lucky--it was perfect weather and not many people on the walls.

The ride was like a dream. From the top of the walls which is like a park, you could look down into the city and see the tiny streets and old houses painted those amazing Tuscan colors. Outside the walls was the "modern" city which would be considered very old here at home. This is a very relaxing break from frantic touring--the pace of the city is slow and slower our friends told us. The route around the walls is about 4km, and took less than an hour. We considered keeping the bikes and riding through the town--but there are cobblestones, narrow streets, other bikes, pedestrians and a few cars. We decided walking would be a better option. We zipped down the ramp of the walls and I had to stop for people at the end and got separated. I was biking along--singing and looking at Italy and soon found myself in a very pretty square with a pretty fountain--the only problem was I was all alone. The square had at least five very charming little narrow streets entering--all looking alike. I could not believe that I was lost--and my map meant nothing because I did not have the map where the little bike guy had circled his location. OK I figured if I found the walls and retraced my steps and paid attention (no singing and looking at Italy) I would be ok. So I start back and the little bike guy comes racing up on a bike--"Miss Miss you lost???" By this time I'm laughing so hard I can't ride, but I follow my rescuer back (for some reason he keeps looking over his shoulder to make sure I'm there) only to find that one of our group has gone off on foot to find me.

Reunited we explored the wonderful little town, making our way to the amphitheater which is a round piazza encircled with buildings all connected. We wanted a "real" lunch and thought that these all looked too touristy. Peaking into side alleys we found a tiny place with a nice menu...it was a bit chilly so we ate inside--old beams, huge fireplace--great food. then we had gelato and I had wanted to climb the tower with the tree. It was starting to get overcast and for 4 euros we decided to skip the tower and head for the bus to Pisa.

On our ride around the walls the town looked small--and we had seen buses and knew there was a large gate with the main TI office. We headed there and the TI office was closes until 3--that would put us a bit late. We asked several people about the bus to Pisa--no luck so we decided to go back to the train.

Easier said than done--we were on the opposite side of town and it is a rabbit warren of curving streets. As we were making our way back we passed our lunch place again--and asked for directions (again). By this time all we wanted to do was find the walls so we could get on top and see where we were. We finally did find the wall--and a gate--and the train tracks and...TA DA..the train station, we bought our ticket to Pisa and planned to go to the Tower then go back to Livorno. By the time we got to Pisa it was Raining--so we decided to just go back to the ship--which meant standing in line again--which this time was long, our friends figured out the machine--we looked for the track and saw Livorno on track 6--we were on one, so we ran through the tunnels and made our train.

In Livorno it was pouring!!! It had been raining and windy much of the day. Getting a cab was easy and we had a great cab driver--opera DVD and all, he was the perfect end to a fun day--and we did tip him.

 

Nice to knows:

This was a nice (and pretty easy) alternative to Florence, by being flexible we could change our plans with the weather. The lesson learned was if you see an open TI office go right in and don't wait. Even with my research--including bus timetables I needed more specific info in Lucca.

Both here for this adventure and in Nice we were lucky to have paired up with wonderful cc couples who shared our sense of adventure and were essentially "go with the flow" travelers. I did warn anyone wanting to join us that we would probably get lost a bit and fumble around a bit, and both adventures were shared with wonderful fun people who did not flinch when a madwoman in a green coat would yell--"RUN for that train...RUN!!!"

 

Our friends had a wonderful day with Fabrizio, they went to Pisa and Florence. Our friends are farmers and Fabrizio comes from a farming family, so on the way back he detoured a little to show them farm land and explain about the farms in the region. That group got to go to the Uffizi and see the David as well as see Pisa.

Our tablemates did the ship tour to Lucca--it was short.

 

Budget:

Taxi (shared both ways and tip) 22e

Bike 2@2,5/hr 5e

lunch 18e

train 14e (maybe12??)

stuff 6e

 

Total 65e

[mountainmare]

In 2005 we met Fabrizio who was our driver/guide in Florence. Since that time he has formed his own company (allarounditaly) and cc members that we met on that early cruise have used Fabrizio several times since. Fabrizio is a very special person and we clicked when we met in 2005 so I was happy when he was free to pick us up in Civitavecchia and take us to our B&B in Rome. Last year we took the train to port with no problem but traveling with newbies I knew Fabrizio would be the perfect person to introduce them to Rome. We found another cc couple to share the ride so that made us a group of six. Since the other four people had not been to Rome before I asked Fabrizio if we could do a little overview of Rome on the way to the hotels and we had tried (and failed) on our other visits to get to the aqueducts and part of the Ancient Appian Way (the really old original part), so we wanted to see these things. All of this had been arranged with Fabrizio in advance. We also arranged to have him pick us up to go to the airport Friday morning. For lodging one of our roll call members had worked with cross pollinate (used by Rick Steves) and we booked an apartment. When the apt owner changed her mind cross-pollinate helped me find another place and we decided on Navona first B&B, right in the historic center. I will review this on tripadvisor--but if you are thinking of staying in Rome 3 or more nights (or even 2) think outside the box and consider an apartment (will be cheaper than a hotel) or B&B. On tripadvisor there are many discussions about good (and bad) companies. We were very pleased with cross pollinate.

 

OK--on with the details.

HAL lets you pick your own disembarkation time, the six of us agreed on the 8-8:30 time slot and since our friends were touring with Fabrizio in Floerence they let him know when we would be getting off the ship. We all met in our room and said a sad goodbye to our aft balcony which after this day would be changed (and not for the better!!). We got off the ship with no lines or crowds and found our luggage. Fabrizio was waiting for us and fit all the luggage in the van like a pro (well he is).

Then began our excellent adventure. One couple was staying at the Crowne Plaza outside the Vatican and Fabrizio suggested that we let them check in and drop off their luggage to make more room in the van (we could push the seats back). Since they have elite status this was very quick.

We started with a beautiful panorama view of Rome at Font Aqua Paola which has the columns of the original St Peters Basilica. We then went over the bridge by the island in the Tiber that has the hospital on it on our way to the famous Knights of Malta door with the "secret keyhole" We are lucky that it is clear and pictures are taken--which is tricky because the hole in the door is tiny. Once again this is something that I had tried to do on our own, but got lost and frustrated, on foot it is a long climb and easy to get turned around. They were setting up for a concert in Circus Maximus--it is nice that they still use this huge space.

We get to the Appian Way and as a group decide not to go into the Catacombs. The entire time Fabrizio is giving us history and tidbits about what we are seeing, DH is a history buff and being geeks we watched hours of lectured on the history of ancient Rome before we came (and this is our third visit). I read several books on the building of Rome and the architecture. Fabrizio's knowledge is correct and he added to what we already had learned, he gives much more than the normal tour guide patter and when you ask questions his passion for history is evident as is his faith.

As we discussed the catacombs he told us that the bones were removed and many buried under the Pantheon when it turned into a church, and under other churches in Rome so there are no people left in the catacombs. he also explained that they were used by Christians for worship because the Romans repected the rights of people to bury their dead and wouldn't destroy the tombs (the Barbarians did that later).

We came to a corner on the Appian Way and the little church Domine Quo Vadis church(means Lord where are you going in Latin). Standing on the Appian Way Fabrizio brought to life the story of St Peter fleeing the city to escape and meeting Jesus right on this spot. Here we were in modern times standing on the very stones of the Appian Way. We could look behind us and see the very route St Peter walked and where he stopped and turned back to Rome. The church is built over the spot where Peter saw Jesus and on that spot is a stone(it is a copy, the original stone is in another church) with the footprints of Jesus.

Now for a tiny editorial comment. I like Rick Steves books and programs, I am not Catholic.

After listening to Fabrizio explain how important this place is I am offended by Rick Steves description of this church in his book. I consider myself a child of the universe and I am inspired by faith--any true faith. When talking to true believers my heart sings--and I have been moved by Muslims, Jews, born again Christians, Catholics, Mormons and even New Age pagans. This little church is special--and Rick Steves just missed the point by trying to be cute. End of rant.

We go along the Appian Way past Celcelia's Tomb and get to the old original road paved with the huge black rocks. If you are making an effort to see the Appian Way you have to see these big original stones. We refresh at a "nose" drinking fountain--a first for the newbies and so much fun--and Fabrizio says we have to walk down a section of the old road to insure our return to Rome, so off we go!!

[mountainmare]

Then fabrizio has a surprise for us--he is taking us to a traditional (inexpensive) place for poketta for lunch in a small town close to Rome and also to Castlegandolfo--the Pope's summer residence. I had asked to see some out of the way things, but I didn't even know about Castlegandolfo!!

As we drive up to Castlegandolfo it starts to get really foggy--we decide to do lunch first and hope that it clears. Lunch is wonderful, Fabrizio orders an assortment for us, this is really local and excellent. It is clearing and the views are great--we can see farmland in the valley and the sea in the distance. Lunch (I had wine) was 7epp--we had pork (hard to describe but excellent) and anh assortment of olives, dried tomatoes, onions--lots of stuff and great bread.

By this time it had cleared and we drove back to Castlegandolfo. I almost don't want to say too much (stop cheering everyone!) because I don't want to spoil anyone's first visit. I will just say that when you dream of an Italian town high in the hills--with squares, geranium filled window boxes and views that surprise you this is it. Being off season the town was empty and the souvenir stands were about half the price for the same goods in Rome. This was a treat!!!

Another request I had was to see aqueduct park and the big aqueducts. This is really hard to manage with public transportation and now I would finally see them.

Now this is our third time in Rome and we have been to Greece, Turkey and Egypt (and Mt Rushmore). We have seen big old stuff. the aqueducts are amazing--when you think that they went for hundreds of miles in some places you have a hard time believing they are still here. The blocks at the base are massive and they are unbelievably high. You can still see the chambers for the water on the ends, fabrizio points out that there are two sets of aqueducts, the "newer" ones have more elaborate brickwork. I am so happy to see them, pictures just don't let you see the scope of these things and I have researched like crazy and it is very hard to get here using public transportation.

Finally it is time to head to our B&B. Fabrizio called to let them know we were on our way. Since we are staying center city Fabrizio did a drive through of the major sights--and we did stop and see the cats at the Argentina Forum ( also the site of old temples and where Caesar was killed--but I wanted to see the cats). Soon we were at Navona First B&B--a perfect location on a small square around the corner from Camp de Fiori. very close to Piazza Navona and the Pantheon. this was right before Easter week and the cost was 130e for a nice room with bath and breakfast at one of two cafes.(let me know if you want more info) Fabrizio showed us some nice places to eat that he knew and we checked in.

By the time we settled in it was raining, but we went out for a walk anyway. We walked over to P Navona and I finally got to see the Four Rivers Fountain with no scaffolding and since it was raining we ran over to the Pantheon to see the rain coming in through the hole in the ceiling (actually its pretty cool). Then we got some take away pizza at a little stand and had pizza and wine--our friends went to bed but we were in Rome, so took a night time stroll--got lost (not too bad) and made our way back to bed.

The next day our friends had an Angel Tours tour of the Vatican at 9:30 and were the only two on the tour. We just wandered Rome and enjoyed the wonderful rooftop terrace at our B&B.

Friday we had to leave. We got up early to go to the market at Campo de Fiori to see the market--it is amazing, in the morning it is a market and by night it is filled with eating places. I was worried about traffic and Fabrizio was picking us up at 9--we had a 1pm flight, then it changed to 2--but I have heard about traffic and the Rome airport. We flew out in March last year, no traffic, no crowds at the airport--but this time we were later in the season and startinh Holy Week so Iwanted to be early. We met Fabrizio in the market--he was early but wanted to go to the market--get a paper etc--and said for us to take our time, he would keep looking for us when we were ready. Soon we were ready to go.

I had checked and knew we were flying out of Terminal C--but Fabrizio said that non-stop US flights usually have checkin at T5, we pulled up to terminal C--he ran in to check and sure enough we checked in at Terminal T5 which is sort of out of the way. Our gate was c23--but we checked in a T5 and took the little bus to terminal C. It seemed like all US carriers--Continental, USAir, Delta etc-had check-in at this terminal.

 

We were early for check-in, but better to be safe than sorry. (but we were way early).

Finally we had to say good bye to Fabrizio--this time I felt that I was saying good bye to a friend--not a guide.

 

The flight on Continental was so much nicer than USAir.

 

So here I am home again--still posting on cruise critic--life is good.

[mountainmare]

We enjoy every trip we take, be it a cruise or on land.

I especially love travel to Europe, I personally feel comfortable there. Part of that comfort comes from having traveler independantly all my life (and with my parents when I was little) and an obsession with research. And by research I don't mean just the internet, or guidebooks, or Samantha Brown and Rick Steves shows--but reading some history--modern works, even novels that take place where I'll be traveling. I now have added you tube to my resource file. So I have a bit of a feel for the people and culture before I go. Thing seem familar when I get there.

But this is me.

Know your travel style. After two days I had my friends sign up for ship tours--this was the best form of travel for them.

If you are a DIY person know when a guide may be the best choice. Angela for Cadiz and Fabrizio were able to show me things I would not have been able to see by myself.

If you want to be a DIY person know that it takes alot of work, and that you will get lost and that you may not see and do everything on your list, but when you get lost--find a cafe and have a nice glass of wine and say "isn't great to be here"

 

I hope you enjoyed my report--I love reading other detailed reports--do indeed ask me any questions you have.

Linda

[painfree]

Linda..

 

Thanks once again for the informative and entertaining account of your TA cruise...I will certainly add the many insights shared to my growing pile of literature...I've searched, questioned, read and read some more..and explore any available resource to enhance my experiences..I thrive on DIY travel..At one time I was a tourist..primarily cruising...but in 2007 I took a Med Cruise..it was actually my 2nd to the Med...While I left home a tourist..I returned a committed traveler...I don't have to see everything..I, and it would appear you have the same thoughts..want to see and experience the culture/lifestyle of a particular area...I want to use the local transportation..dine in local cafes/restaurants and generally emerse myself into the area..

 

I routinely research an area to be visited..determine what I want to see or do..then figure out how to accomplish it..In this way, I am satisfied with a tour or visit..No regrets or disappointments..Oh, and the wonderful people you meet along the way..

 

My sister and I will be taking the train to Florence..This is my first visit to Florence and have designed a walking tour to enclude the David and hot chocloate at Rivoire..My sister wants the hot chocolate and I want an Italian Leather Purse..

 

We have chosen private tours for Rome, Sardinia and Madiera..the remaining ports will be DIY...I am so ready for our vacation and hoping the rainy weather you experienced is long gone..

 

Bye for now,

Carol

[Dor]

I've so enjoyed reading your detailed reports. We, too, are on the upcoming Ruby TA.

 

I'm particularly interested in your mention of books - history, modern works and novels. Would you care to share some of these titles? I'm looking for a good read for those days crossing the Atlantic!

 

Thanks again.

Debbie