Mom, 2 daughters, and heat in Progreso/Merida

[luvavacation]

To think, last week we were just in Progreso/Merida! Thought I would give my review of it, since I had so much help here before we left and wanted to give some back!

 

We were up early, I believe we were cleared to leave the Carnival Fantasy at 7:30? The plan was to take the bus from Progreso to Merida and explore Merida, so I had my guide book pages (ripped out, book too big to carry!), and with my two daughters (14 and 18), we left the ship and took the bus to the end of the dock, then walked through the shopping area at the end of the dock, but first had to find the bathroom, since we did not know when we would stop again.

 

The bathroom in the shopping area where the bus lets you off is small but clean enough, however there are no toilet seats, and you must tip to get toilet paper and use the facilities. We were unaware of this, but luckily I always come prepared with my own toilet paper and small bills for tips. Also, you can not throw the paper in the toilet, you must throw it into a trash can. This makes for very smelly garbage receptacles right in your toilet stall, but apparently the plumbing can not handle paper, so you toss your paper. Learning how the locals live is always interesting, I told my girls, and we sure do appreciate our toilet seats and paper flushing toilets back at home now! There was a nice dispenser of soap and hand towels, so that was good, at least for washing up.

 

We then walked through town to find the bus station, the bathroom attendant had given us directions (with my very, very limited Spanish and her fluent Spanish, somehow we understood each other!), and off we went to the station. What I did not know upon arrival was that I need to ask for a "rondo" ticket, if I recall correctly, for a roundtrip. I was doing hand gestures, making circles in the air, saying "Progreso - Merida - Progreso", but it worked out. The price was nine dollars for three people, roundtrip. Deal.

 

We then went and waited in the waiting area, which quickly filled up. We had been sitting in chairs, but my daughters were telling me that the line was getting longer, so we should go get in line. Since we were the only ones in chairs, I figured they were correct, so we got in line. Then a woman came up to us, and in rapid Spanish started talking to us and gesturing for us to follow her. I understood "Merida", so I told her "centro Merida", she took my arm and gently tried to get me to follow her, I had no idea what was happening, but decided I would follow her (she had been at the front of the line with what I think were her daughters), and she placed us at the front of the line and told the guy boarding us something about centro. So, my girls and I were the first in line, got right on behind the driver, and told him again "centro Merida" and he nodded, said some stuff that I did not understand, and off we went when the bus was loaded.

 

Now I must preface this all by saying it was hot, very very hot, and my daughters' and my mood was heading towards negative. I had thought this would all be going more smoothly, but I was getting frustrated because what Spanish I did know was zipping out of my brain before I could even bring it back and speak it, and I was frustrated that I was not able to understand much of anything that was said to me. I just finished a year of Spanish last year at a local college, got straight "A's" in it, conversed fine in class, but you would never know it. And it was hot. We were sweaty, felt dirty, and were hot. But, we were on a bus to Merida, riding with the locals, we were the only non-locals on the bus, so we just sat back and tried to soak in the experience.

 

Once in Merida, and off the bus, we set out with our map. It was easy to find our way around, we headed to the main center that was shaded due to the abundance of trees and plants, and looked around. Then I realized I had left my sunglasses on the bus! This is why I buy cheap sunglasses, though, as I seem to lose them all the time. I did need sunglasses, as the sun was very bright and strong.

 

We looked at the old buildings surrounding the square, took pictures, went into the church, but only stepped in the doorway as we were wearing tank tops and did not want to be disrespecful. Then a guy came up to us and started speaking in English, telling us the history of the church, history of Merida, etc. I was not sure what to do! I did not ask him to come and talk to us, I was not sure what the fee was for this, so I tried to thank him and tell him we had our guide book, but he would not leave us alone! He was very nice, but this was so out of my comfort zone.

 

As we exited the church, he kept talking with us, and we had young women come up to us with all sorts of necklaces and bracelets, and I did end up buying one wooden rosary that I thought was very nice, it was only three dollars, and though the guy told me it had the Mayan symbols on it, I don't believe him, as all the symbols were the same, a circle with a dot in it. Either way, the girl selling it was sweet, and I figured for 3 dollars it was a nice memento.

 

The guy then tried to lead us into an artifacts/historical shop, and we did go in because we had not yet looked in any shops, and I bought a beautiful painting with vibrantly coloured birds on it, that I thought was a great price (after bargaining, gosh I do love bargaining!). We then told the guy that we must be going, thanked him, and left. He did not request a tip, we did not know if a tip was required, and we did not tip him as we tried to get rid of him and he just would not leave us alone. Plus, we shopped in the shop he took us to. Not sure if not tipping was correct, but I figure if I don't ask for your service, I should not have to tip you.

 

At this point, my daughters were hot, I was hot, the sun had zapped us, so we headed back to the bus station. There were so many more things I wanted to explore in Merida, but I think the constant following of us by various Mexican men, the boys trying to proposition my daughters, the requests to be their boyfriends, and the oppressive heat, just made us all somewhat tired and crabby. We were snapping at each other, no one wanted to see what the other wanted to, so I made the executive decision to go back to the ship.

 

Now I must say that we have always loved Mexico, the bargaining and propostions have never really bothered us, but hot and tired really changes how you deal with things. Crabby, moody daughters don't help, either.

 

The bus back was uneventful, we headed to the ocean when we arrived back, we put our feet in the water but my youngest had a blister that had popped on her foot and the salt hurt her, so we just decided to leave the beach and go back to the boat.

 

The beach was very, very crowded. There were hawkers everywhere, lots of massage tables, and while I would have loved a massage, I did not want to subject anyone to touching my hot sweaty back. I myself did not want to touch my back! So no massage.

 

Nice waves, though. The water was not the clear blue water you get in the Riviera Maya area, it was more green and cloudy, but it was warm. Next time we go to Progreso, we will not go to Merida, but rather sit on the beach. Merida would be nice if it were cooler, but for a hot day, the beach would have been a better choice.

 

If you have any questions, I will try to check back later. I liked this port, I liked the feel of small town Progreso, I felt safe with my teen daughters, but I will say that when my youngest was offered a beer while walking around Progreso, she was quite amazed. It is a different culture, different way of doing things, and these differences are why my family enjoys traveling. You will come away with lots of great stories, and the less "Americanized" a port is, the better the stories!

[txmomto1]

Thank you for posting this. I really appreciate the fact that while things were not ideal, you still remained positive about the experience. What a great lesson for your daughters. I hope to raise my son the same way. You can't expect every place to be like the US. It does not make those places any less wonderful though!

 

We are going to Progresso in February. We missed the port on our last Ecstasy cruise, and hope we make it this time!

[Texas-Ben]

I am full of admiration for your effort and sorry about parts of your experience.

 

I am in Texas and last week I didn't even want to go outside, period, and I'm familiar with heat. Add the humidity in the Yucatan and I was feeling your pain as I read your posting. I was also sorry for the teasing/taunting of your daughters, it is at least uncomfortable and that's probably a huge understatement in a different country.

 

Having said all that I can't wait to make the same journey in September, but then no one will be asking me to be their "boyfriend", at least no one in their right mind. :mad:

 

I hope the good overpowered the bad in your experience and again, I admire your spirit and the adventure you and your daughters decided to experience, blisters and all!

[luvavacation]

Thanks for the kind words! I wasn't sure if my post would come off as negative or not, I certainly didn't want it to be negative, but you never know how written words appear to someone else. I do not find it so easy to convey my thoughts without using my hand gestures, so writing is sometimes misinterpreted. Glad it wasn't this time!

 

My family really does like to travel in Mexico, and we do like seeing the "real" areas of the places we travel to. One of our favorite trips was to Costa Maya 5 years ago, seeing the ruins and the small town. So not like Cancun, which reminds me of a built up American beach town, but with Spanish speakers. We are familiar with Mexican men and their propositions, must say even for me, an old woman past the beauty of my youth, it does feel good when those guys call you beautiful and such. Course, they may only do it to get you in their store, but still it is fun!

 

And we did have so many plans for Merida, so much to see, but the heat and its effects on me and my crabby teens was just too much. Plus I did not have sunglasses, so my eyes were hurting. I was frustrated at my sudden lack of any Spanish comprehension, as I always try to learn a bit of any language in whatever country I am going to be visiting, but I think the heat fried my brain cells. We could not even enjoy the ocean because of the blister that popped on my youngest daughter's foot, so we just kind of felt disappointed with out adventure in Progreso/Merida, but it was no fault of the area, only our own.

 

I would not hesitate to go back to this port, but if it is in the summer, I will just stay on the beach area, but in the cooler months, I can't wait to go back to Merida and explore more! My daughters like seeing and learning about the history of the places we visit (they've been traveling to foreign countries since they were small, so we indoctrinated them early!), and like I said, the more "un-Americanized" the place is, the better the stories are when you get home! I think I just underestimated how the heat and bright sun would effect us.

 

Just remember - bring toilet paper and small bills if you want to use the facilities! And ladies, practice squatting and hovering! :D

[Paintball Mom]

Thanks so much for the post! I will be in Progresso the first week in August and did not plan an excursion. Thought we would just wander around the town, eat at the Le Bonnet place that has been recommended and then take in a massage and a little beach time. Question (it's my 1st cruise): What does everyone wear off the ship? Is there a place to change at the beach or do you just wear a cover-up with bathing suit underneath all day?

 

Oh and thanks for the "tp" advice. Will be sure we tuck some into our tote bags!

[luvavacation]

You can just wear your suit with a coverup, it seems to be what most people do. I don't recall seeing any showers or changing rooms there, anyway (but someone that spent time at the ocean might know better).

 

If you are worried about being wet when you get on the bus to go back up the pier for the ship, don't worry. It is a few minutes walk from the beach to the pier's bus, and you will dry off before you get there. Not really a far walk, but far enough to dry off, perhaps about 8 minutes? Of course, we were walking slow, due to being hot and tired, you might walk faster!

 

Enjoy the beach, I know we will next time!

[Paintball Mom]

Thanks again! Wasn't quite sure what the appropriate attire would be so you've put my mind at rest. Leaving one week from tomorrow. Can't wait!

[lexanna02]

We are going on our first ever cruise in November and will stop in Progreso. Your experience will be very helpful to us! Since we will be going in the fall, do you have any suggestions for two people who know ZERO Spanish? Also, where would you suggest we go in Merida? What is

the best way to get there?

[Texas-Ben]

and DW and I will be spending the port time in Merida. The round trip bus from Progresso is very inexpensive.

 

There are many altenatives while at this port stop. If you are interested in Merida I will post my experience as soon as we get back. We plan to get a feel for the city, see the sites, shop, eat lunch from a true Yacatanian restraunt and take the bus back in time to get a beach massage.

 

Merida is a colonial city also called the White City due to the number of buildings built in limestone. It has a cathedral built in the 1500s, a thriving mercado (market), it has also been called the Paris of Mexico (due to the tree lined streets). You can take a horse drawn tour ot hire a taxi to see whatever interests you.

 

I'm really looking forward as I have not been to Merida before.:D

[luvavacation]

Lex-anna02, Texas-Ben did a great job describing what Merida has to offer!

 

What I did, to supplement the information I received here, was go to the bookstore and buy a couple of books that cover the Yucatan area, making sure they had info on Merida and Progreso (as much as I like online research, I really enjoy having a book to look at, too). My daughters and I made our list of things to see and then ripped out the pages to take with us. Of course, as I wrote, best laid plans are often changed!

 

As to getting to Merida, if you have no Spanish language knowledge and are feeling adventurous, you can go and take the local bus from Progreso to Merida and back, but thinking back I think a taxi or tour to Merida might have been a better way to go. It was very frustrating not knowing what anyone was saying to me, and having to trust people to not take advantage of my ignorance. My daughters and I were fortunate that we met some very nice people that were willing to help some confused Americans, and we have traveled to foreign countries quite a bit so new experiences are somewhat expected. However, considering the time constraints with cruise ship departures and time lost in figuring out where we were and what we were doing and working with the bus schedules (don't forget to make sure you leave plenty of time to get back to port!), well, I would have taken a taxi.

 

 

Perhaps, if I had spent more money and taken a taxi, we would have been a bit more relaxed and not so bothered by everything and then enjoyed Merida more. It is a toss-up. I suppose that if you are adventurous and keep a good eye on your time, you should experience travel to Merida with the locals on the bus, but if you want to be more relaxed and comfortable and on your own schedule, a taxi (or tour?) might work better. Either way, I am sure you will enjoy your time in Merida/Progreso.