calm down dear

Thanks - the logistics of getting a guide onto the island, take us off it on same ferry etc was quite expensive, usually Troy is done from the mainland port of Canakkale but that’s not where we were. The lunch “on the go” from what I saw sadly was untouched and wasteful - why can’t Seabourn just provide a nice sandwich rather than outsource it ? I realise cruise critic can bring out the critic, so let me state the positives clearly: we have a normal veranda, it’s spacious, clean and well maintained by 2 smiling stewardesses, Aircon is good and amenities in room very good. There is a variety of food options and drinking options and also deck spaces where you can find quiet - albeit many do have pumped out music but I find a towel placed over speaker works wonders. We like arriving in new places every day. The food we find good to very good, on this cruise it has always been hot (a bugbear of mine) and service is ok to good/well meaning - we do give a lot of credit for the situation and to be clear we have not found “deliberate’ poor service. We like Seabourn as we like we can do our own things and not have paid for “included” tours et Are there areas we would improve - yes, are other lines better - not really, we have enjoyed Crystal and Silversea but all have +/-.

Day 7 continued. We had dinner in the restaurant which was nearly full, the ambiance was poor, we were squeezed yet again in the middle between loud groups. I almost got up but that would be “causing a scene” and is forbidden in England. Again there were staff (not at hosted tables) monopolising good tables of 2 and 4 - I simply do not understand - why are they sat at window tables and in quiet areas where we wanted to sit ? Perhaps foolishly I used some obc to buy wine but you now have to specify in advance your few bottles of wine - remembering what you had and only once sat down and only eventually when you fight off the included wines will the sommelier come and then go off to retrieve said wine and come back once you are mid-way through first course. Another premium experience lacking and you can’t ask for it in advance as they say they don’t know where you will be sitting and will only collect it once you arrive. I can though see the issues on staffing, we observed lots of special caviar and attention to certain parties and special orders - no one else is told of these things anywhere, this leads to pointing and amending of orders and slows the whole service down. If Seabourn need to save money and help service flow stuff like caviar and all its attendant faffery needs to be charged like the retreat. To get my premium wine refilled I resorted to doing it myself.

I agree with you, it’s just Seabourn keep pushing this aura in their ads and marketing and it’s really misleading. Now I agree it is better we have what we have than hanker after a past which is not attainable any longer. My fear is that they will adopt more and more add-on pricing eg the ridiculous retreat instead of focusing on providing a good service for all at a reasonable price point. A case in point next week we are told less than 350 onboard - friends of ours were tempted quite last minute but the price for a week was nearly the same as we paid for 2 weeks.

The sign onboard says “elegant casual” and tonight in the restaurant which was nearly full I would say less than 10% had a jacket, only about 20% I would say had anything like a “dress shirt” ie a plain collared long sleeve shirt, most where in various polo t shirts and loose fitting long sleeved shirts, in short what I would say was casual. It was a night at your local neighbourhood restaurant rather than anything remotely upscale. We yet again failed to get any table near a window and were plonked in the middle surrounded by loud tables of 6-8, what I will say is there seem any more groups than we are used to. The place was deafening.

I think this is an excellent point, nowhere in the glossy brochure does it suggest venues will simply be closed like we are experiencing, much virtue is made of the variety of places - all of which close periodically eg Earth and Ocean was shut last night, and another night so was Sushi which is fine these to me are add-one but not to have the main restaurant open for breakfast or at least the odd lunch is short-changing. They could always ask for advance bookings “for planning purposes” like they did for the free Ephesus tour to ascertain demand. I for one would much prefer a calmer place to eat breakfast rather than be surrounded by the constant up/down of people all around me and associated shouts across the tables of “barb bring me more maple syrup” etc

I mentioned this on my other post but I found it a bit unsettling to see many people simply struggle to locate “tickets” in the app out on quayside today. I have no idea why needed anyway as all had already declared name and cabin number. Some were upset, others embarrassed as they were holding up the line. Then the tour guide “scanned” and more often than not it only worked on second go. Someone hadnt bought their phone so they were sent to back of queue to see a Seabourn person with the clipboard (again) but they were on the bus ! As I keep saying we have no end of paper pushed at us in the cabin - basically trying to flog watches and trinkets but last night acupuncture too - but nothing actually useful, like a tour ticket.

Day 7 : Bozcaada , a sparkly autumnal arrival off an island close to the Dardanelles. Breakfast was busy with seemingly many excursions today, of which we were one, to the ancient city/ruins of Troy. We usually arrange our own stuff preferring not to be at the pace of the slowest but as there is very little on Bozcaada which is a small island and we didn’t really want to brave ferry and then taxi we took the tour. Now aside from the tour destination, we were reminded of all the reasons we dislike tours : asked to be in salon by 9, names ticked off and told where to sit, 10 mins after 9 the tour groups had got mixed up, sorted with some waving and down to a tender. 10 mins on tender, off tender to various buses and queues. Told to join a queue which was a queue for tour guide person to check tickets. Now this is where the source app infuriating as many couldn’t work out how to show, some had put their phone away at base of cavernous bags, others said it was on their husbands etc The queue inched forward and all given a tour guide and a number. Then a walk to a car ferry, another 30min wait until 1015, across on ferry 30 mins and then onto a bus 30 mins. There were 3 buses and all I’d say about 2/3 full. Our tour guide was again “informative” in that talked non-stop for 30mins. Then on arrival at Troy the gates were problematic in that our ‘tickets” could only be scanned at one gate that took ages in single file. We then had a marshalled hour or so around the site, scolded if we moved too fast or too slow with lots of come here, go there, can you hear me etc. Then back on bus where a boxed meal - if I’m being charitable - was handed to us comprising of cold cauliflower and onion salad, fruit salad, muffin and a cheese with pepper roll and a water, all balanced on our laps. It wasn’t tasty or luxury. On the way back the guide insisted we fill in a survey on a screen and then proceeded to quite aggressively push for tips for driver, an assistant and himself. Not a discrete - “if you want to leave a tip there is a box at front etc but the full-on times have been hard etc etc” This made us uncomfortable as not that the excursion was expensive (it was at 199 each) or that “tips always included” but that we hadn’t got any lira and only 50 euro notes so had to cadge for change from other passengers. Now I suppose the “remind people to tip speech” is hardly an affront and perhaps coming from uk where we do not have this tipping culture it is us that need to not think this is all a bit uncalled for. Being true English people we muttered, felt awkward and paid our dues. We we’re back in the town after the ferry at 230pm, a quick mooch around quite a pleasant town with market stalls and cafes before tender back. Repairing to Seabourn Square where it was like a zoo, patio had closed and afternoon tea not too 4 so it seemed everyone was there for tea’s, sandwiches, ice-creams and despite a couple of officers passing by no help came to the 2 servers , meanwhile dirty cups etc mounted up and yes staff again cut in line getting food etc. Anyway at this point it was nearly 4 so decided to try the tea in observation bar. It was very well presented, tiny mini sandwiches and cakes, all different and a great selection of tea. Alas the tinkling of piano disturbed by 2 , yes 2 couples loudly FaceTiming with family. You should at least be assured to know that Barb from Phoenix is having a great time but Chuck last night ate too much etc etc - why do people do this ?

I can’t remember how it was depicted in the 1950 film but arguably the play is now better known and again I can’t recall but the stage direction calls it “crumpled and poor fitting”. Famously Norma Desmond takes him to an upmarket menswear store to attire him, he declares that “he won’t wear a tux” to which the reply is “of course not dear, tuxedos are for waiters!”

My solution, if it is staffing that is the issue, is close the patio every now and then. Everything on patio eg burger, is available in colonnade and if you want to eat said burger outside in the cold there are plenty of outdoor tables in colonnade or you could get room service to deckchair. The other idea is why not gauge demand a la Keller night by putting on a say themed lunch in restaurant? To me only having a frantic buffet or windswept patio is not luxury in 14 days.

Day 6 : Skiathos. A smooth sailing for once but was still a bit breezy on arrival and all day, a jumper has been needed so far throughout. This was another 10min tender, many didn’t get off as there were 0 excursions. The town though was pleasant with little headlands to explore and a working port. Mamma Mia was also filmed here in part so I I got to practice my singing as I walked round. We found a family taverna open in a backstreet for a light lunch which was great and we’re back on board about 230. We understand about 440 are on board on this leg and deck 5 empty. The recent changes to covid masking in crew (I’d say 95% are unmasked) has lead to a tick up apparently. On our tour bus to Ephesus and on tenders and in venues I’d say also at least 95% or more of passengers unmasked - I mention in case this is a deal breaker for any traveller. Tonight was chef dinner - we gave it a swerve as little choice and had a delightful sushi dinner - very popular venue full and with queue throughout evening. It’s no Nobu or close to say Umi Uma on crystal but it was delicious and again service friendly and welcoming. What is odd is hot food only at lunch - I think it’s because shares with Keller but seems odd they can’t do one warm entree or nabe like dish for dinner. The ship doesn’t seem crowded but one thing that has made me raise an eyebrow is the extensive use of Seabourn square by staff such as singers who take all the best sofa’s and loudly gossip together in groups all afternoon as well as have meetings about stuff. Their coffee and cake consumption off the chart as well as cutting in line. I suppose perhaps I’m a little old fashioned but this doesn’t seem right, I don’t want to hear their “shenanigans” and surely staff have their own areas ?

“filling station shirt” - a line from Sunset Boulevard when someone’s proposed attire for an evening function was questioned - both provenance of said shirt and style for the event.

So in the interests of science or more accurately this board, I had another go at water tasting and sniffing. My conclusion is that the plastic containers in the suite and when you go ashore seem to be a lot more “whiffy” than the larger decanter things in colonnade and I wonder whether it is linked to how long said water is in the plastic and that the stopper isn’t 100% air tight. Now what I will say is that I do understand costs have to be trimmed but I’m not asking for Evian or obscure Fiji glacial water - the generic Greek bottled water now in our suite is perfectly fine and is 30cents a (glass) bottle, retail so there really is no excuse not to serve it. I though do applaud no single use plastics so on excursion we take (a washed out and aired) Seabourn flask and put our water in it.

Yes from Encore formal this week I’d endorse JPH814, no jeans but at least 20% were I’d say in “normal” that is to say casual - trousers and various dare I say it - to borrow a phrase - “filling station” shirts. This was also the case in Keller too which normally is a bit more dressy - now to be clear I’m not at all bothered by dress and tend to find it a matter of taste that varies between us all. My own view is that it would be simpler just to state collared shirt , trousers and socks and shoes and that’s it. Tonight in club at 645 a man in bare feet and dressing gown sat down and was served coming in from rear pool.

So far on Encore since 16/10 the restaurant has been closed at breakfast and lunch. I think this is a great shame, whilst patio is an alternative at breakfast it is too cold. However the sushi restaurant is sometimes open at lunch which is a far less frantic environment to the colannade. I don’t have a 100% aversion to buffet but given what we are paying there ought to be choice, as others note ambiance is important as well as food.

I agree, the app is infuriating and we are no luddites, the app doesn’t seem to work if you are not connected unless you disconnect another device. I think it’s actually discriminatory as there is masses of paper puffing Madame Zelda’s jewellery in the suite or the $195 yes that’s right for a wine pairing for dinner tomorrow but basic info is sparse and hard to get in suite. I’d also say having spent ages getting the verifly stuff and source boarding pass - no one asked for it or accepted it on embarking and we were forced to show paper copies !

Day 5 : Mykonos : another windy day but bright. Town was very pleasant only one other cruise ship in town who had the berth so we tendered ashore. Top tip nothing opens before about 1030 but it was a delight traversing the narrow paths without the huge crowds of summer. There was also some sort of blessing of the various chapels in town with a procession of priests, congregation and also horses which was a spectacle, there was also cake handed out to passers by and encouraged to join the procession. For lunch we found a local kebab store “sakis” which was full of locals and very cheap at 6 euros for a delicious souvlaki wrap and gyros in the warm autumn sun outside. Back on board a big shout out to the many Ukrainian staff including at Seabourn square who despite being so worried about events are determined to keep smiling and we reiterated our support recognising it was ok for them to talk if they wished. Dinner tonight was Keller at the colonnade. This is a no choice 4 course menu and it was exceptional, fresh salad starter , thinly sliced ribeye with veg, aged cheddar with bread and a wonderful mousse like chocalate tart dessert. Again you’d willing pay well for that on land. We had pre dinner drinks in the club which was a bit soulless with only one other table occupied, the negroni was excellent. Adjacent is the casino and no one in so we chatted with the croupier who was saying no one is attending on this cruise but last week “was packed” - he was thankful though of some early nights ! Tonight still very windy and as we left captain came on at 730pm with a specific warning about a “list to port” as we went round a headland due to wind (he was right as ever!) so far this is cruise is far stormier than expected and much worse stability wise than our last Atlantic/New England cruise. A word on laundry - its well equipped on deck 5 with 6 washing machines and 6 dryers plus 3 irons. We have never had a queue so far. Oh and for that person who expressed concern my Jigsaw issue resolved - one has appeared in Seabourn square! This class of ship seems much better than Quest etc more spacious etc and we like the lack of crowds as I write at 930 in Seabourn square with a decaf coffee there is just one other couple here.

Day 4 continued : We had hired a guide and set off to Ephesus, we had been before 10 years ago but our memories were principally of how blisteringly hot and crowded it was. This time was so different, same clear blue sky but about 21 degrees perfect strolling weather. There was another cruise ship in but the site is well laid out and never felt like you were walking down Oxford Street. Around the site and at the port there was still rows of trinket and leather good shops but no hard sells or hassle from what we remembered, in fact tour guides everywhere where unfailingly polite and welcoming. We got back for a late lunch at the patio - very average, I also think they ought to have Greek or Turkish beer- not only excellent but would support local economy that said yesterday to be fair we did see some Greek wine being loaded onto our tender. The evening saw the “free” excursion back to Ephesus for a classical concert. This meant a chefs special colonnade dinner between 5 and 630 but that’s too early for us. There were 9 or 10 buses and aside from a guide talking non-stop for 30mins on the journey, the evening was well organised and quite nice, now nice is a good English word meaning here ok+ , it had sort of been billed as seeing the site at night but not true you walked through the exit area - where the trees were nicely lit, to the wide exit area below the amphitheater which is lit above - but you aren’t in the amphitheater but on what is the exit path. Tables and chairs plus wine and nuts were too hand, plus you had your photo taken. The concert was just under an hour with 8 people playing a selection of “classic favourites”, it was nice. On arrival back at ship there was a welcoming line of crew on quayside clapping and cheering which was quite funny but also again all seemed very appreciative we were here as guests. Up on deck was a sail away party, we were hungry and there was a small canapé like buffet that hit the spot. We stayed for about 45 mins but very few seemed to come which was a shame as the music was good and clearly a lot of organisation goes into all this.

Service : Whilst it is early days, we have only encountered polite and well-meaning service, people are keen to help and assist. Yesterday had lunch in sushi bar - which oddly isn’t sushi at lunch but a sort of fusion with Ramen and gyoza very delicious and the staff so happy and welcoming as if we were long lost customers - which I suppose we were of sorts. There doesn’t seem any shortage of staff to me , say compared to our other cruises or indeed a “land” based restaurant, true perhaps a bit of a wait between our wine and when our order taken but server 1 was always clear that server 2 is there and coming - and I blame big tables being ridiculously pernickity - spinach is not going to kill you nor will you be forced to eat it, just leave it on the side but asking for different options and combinations is in our minds rude, it holds up servers and is a recipe for error. The menu is plenty long enough for choice. Today had lunch on patio, napa burger was poor relation of past - not sure it was potato bun and fries average, service slightly frenetic as if there was a shortage of glasses or crockery as servers determined to wrench away my stuff if I so much as stopped chewing ! Anyway in summary, day 4 so far, it is as good as we remember and whilst of course my experience is only my experience we are very happy. But I have just remembered a negative - the communal jigsaw in Seabourn square is no more, staff there must be new as they said never had - maybe it was a quest/sojourn thing!

Day 4: Now this will be a very boring piece and not worthy of the spirit of cruise critic if we don’t get out some moans. We are not huge drinkers but I do like mineral water - the flasks in the room are unspeakably foul - frankly the water smells, sorry but it does. I’d specified in advance we wanted bottled water but nothing at all in fridge aside from coke and some soft drinks. It took 2 days to get bottled water then I think all my calls etc came at once and 6 bottles of a Greek bottled water arrived - it’s fine. At the restaurant it’s a real effort to get mineral water - you’d think we were asking for something exotic and an even greater effort to get a top up or prevent a wandering server adding their version of water. Frankly also I’ve forgotten sometimes too when asked “still or sparkling” that I need to properly engage and oddly at Keller I did forget but they seemed to have nicer water in their decanters but then again maybe the nice wine helped ! The Seabourn source app and herald etc on the tv is unbelievably clunky and unresponsive. We are no luddites but really it’s hopeless and a poor user experience, fortunately I had asked for herald in paper which we get. I did have a semi lecture about paper waste but my response would be banish all the idiotic info about “puffy eye treatments” or “Madame Zelda’s jewellery” to the tv and app and not litter them on my bed every night. The internet is fine but again you keep have to go in to source to reconnect many times a day or indeed at random times it seems.

Day 3 : Another bumpy night to Crete to Agios Nikolaus, even on deck six we had plenty of spray on balcony. Bumpy tender again, indeed it was suspended after an hour or so to departures which some were annoyed with but we got to shore early. Town was pleasant to stroll round but real delights of Crete are inland in the hills but we’ve been before and the day was quite cloudy/rainy inland so I didn’t bother to hire a car and had a relaxing afternoon back on ship. For one reason or another we hadn’t yet had pre dinner drinks so tonight we were going to Thomas Keller which has a really nice cocktail bar and pianist - I thought on my first afternoon walk round it was tiny but neglected to look round the corner and there was many more velvet seats, very nice ambience. Dining area also so much bigger than Quest and with outside tables too (not now as dark!). Our dinner was excellent - ok so it’s not really Keller but it’s firmly in the “we’d be happy to eat this in London and pay for it”, portions a bit too big but that’s USA steakhouse for you - we had steaks but we remembered the delicious chicken from Quest but maybe it’s our age but when it arrived at the next table it could have served 4 easily ! Another bumpy night as wind picked up again but a quiet arrival today into Kusadasi for Ephesus.

We had dinner in restaurant, poor table for 2 in the middle in between large tables but was too tired to move and our fault for coming neither early or later. Food was very good, soup was hot (I loathe tepid soup) and whilst I am a bit of a wine idiot/aficionado (as you prefer) I felt the Albariño and the Guigal Cotes du Rhône wholly acceptable. Timing and service was good. We had a stormy first night across to Patmos, arriving nearly 2 hours late as Captain Bathgate said he changed course many times, the wind was v strong from north and we were going east so not a good mix. Breakfast in Colannade is the only choice apart from on deck at patio (it was a bit cold) or insuite. Like many I am not a buffet person but to be fair this is where the world is going and it is attractively laid out and someone will go get everything for you anyway if you want, indeed I wasn’t that hungry so actually didn’t get up - I had tea and the daily special and it was brought to me - just like restaurant. What I will also say is colonnade is much bigger than Quest so doesn’t feel “cafeteria” like if you sit away from buffet area. Patmos was a pretty little town, a bumpy 10 min tender, we hired a taxi right outside very easily and visited monastery and a bit of the island. Dinner again in restaurant and better table, food good, soup carrot was excellent.

Well having been a long time lurker I thought that I would give my thoughts on a cruise for the benefit of this board. Happy to take questions. We are in our early 50s and have sailed about 12 times across Seabourn, Silversea and Crystal. I think it a little redundant comparing the three as, well, much has changed in the last few years but we have enjoyed all of them. We do think Silversea have made a mistake for us at least by “including” excursions - we are independently minded and like the option of doing what we want to do - which might include a tour , this to us makes Silversea significantly more expensive for not any real benefit. We have sailed the 3 smaller Seabourn ships but this is the first time on the newer ones and it seems much bigger than Quest etc - albeit it’s been 4 years since we were last onboard a cruise. There has been much chatter on these boards about service etc which I understand but also think the issues are symptomatic of the times we are in, all hospitality seems a bit chaotic at the moment. We live in London and some places no longer do lunch so closure of the main dining room isn’t confined to Seabourn ! Anyway let’s turn to the start of our trip. We sort our own air and hotels so we arrived on a very full BA flight (13 rows of club!) on Friday and took taxi to what turned out to be same hotel Seabourn use. On Sunday we took a taxi to the port. We had diligently completed verify and source app and our barcode clearly stated we were gate c - luckily as we drove I saw the ship at gate a so wasn’t perturbed that on arrival at gate c in the taxi there was no ship, there was no information either but luckily I told taxi driver let’s go back to gate a - so why couldn’t Seabourn had emailed ? We’d had constant emails on changes to the checkin times and groups for 4 days in a row ! The kerbside checkin was perfunctory - no they didn’t want to see verifly, no they didn’t want to see my source checkin, all they wanted was paper copies of my Covid jab - I said surely that’s the whole point of verifly etc that you made us do ? - cue blank stares and waved on! So top tip if source and verifly worry you - don’t be, and also do have paper copies of Covid. We kept our luggage with us - we travel light - but there were multiple offers to take it plus offers of refreshments as we moved through security. I think the staggering of people arriving is a good thing to minimise queues, albeit we were 20mins early and no one said any thing. We were welcomed onboard by CD Ross who coincidentally was our last CD on Quest. We are on deck six and the cabin is spacious and well maintained - again seems a bit bigger than we remembered on Quest. The whole ship is spotless with lots of daily maintenance. Next up first ports and dinners.