Old Pete

The only optional tour that i actually signed up for was Baby Yar in Kiev.

it is actually not advertised (or at least wasn't last year). The cost was 300UAH\pp. Since the time in Kiev is VERY LIMITED (one has to remember that you need to PACK in order to get off the ship "tomorrow morning") basically you board the Babi Yar bus practically after you come back from the St Sophia\Kiev-Pechersky tour

You'll be back right before dinner

The guide (unfortunatley i do not recall her name) was very informative and spoke English! The tour made 3 stops: the "top" of the Yar, the "pseudo-memorial" (was build by the Soviets at the place that has nothing to do with the issue) and the "bottom"

I guess if you are interested and know what Baby yar is about - you can hire a cab for cheaper than 600UAH it would cost you. Whether you will get the story and above-mentioned 3 stops is highly questionable; hence I would probably go with the Viking Tour.

I didn't take any optional tours in Odessa since I know the city better than the tour guides :D One of the tours offered - Jewish Odessa - takes you to the district I was born and lived at. No need to pay $$$ for someone to show me my appt building :rolleyes:

Same with the Opera Theater Performance - if you so incline you can walk up to the Theater (10 mins walk if that from the Richelieu monument atop of Potemkin Steps) and ask what is playing. The most expensive ticket - sitting in the Tzar's Box - ran me 135UAH pp. We actually opted to do that the 1st night on the ship - had dinner at The Steakhouse around 5:00 pm and then casually walked to the theater for a 7:00 pm performance.

The Viking Optional Tour took folks to the performance the night the ship was leaving - it was hurried and they were fed dinner on the ship when they returned, which was close to 10 pm (too late for me to eat dinners and I am not sure I'd enjoy the performance if i was hungry)

http://www.opera-ballet.tm.odessa.ua/english/repertoiren_now.html

This will get you the schedule. Once more - if you do decide to go - DO NOT buy any tickets online!!! they will cost you 10 times what they will on the spot if you pay in Hrivnas

As I also mentioned prior - I went "all out" in Crimea by hiring Sergey. THAT ran me a pretty penny but it was worth every bit of it based on what I saw vs what others saw.

Good luck!

Altiva - here are two "Classic" examples of what we are talking about - spelling vs. pronunciation:

1. - Девушка, кем это вы себя мните?

- Не ваше это дело, кем я себя мну!

2. - Сара, шо вы пишете "Два мужика надорвались на мине"?

Не "надорвались", а "подорвались"!

- Нет, таки надорвались! Не на мИне, а на минЕ!

:D:rolleyes:

Please note: The ship’s docking location is at the discretion of port authorities, and your ship’s Captain can be ordered to move the ship without notice.

Do not dismiss your taxi until you have positively located the ship.

Here is docking information and the link to the whole Viking docking pdf:

KIEV (pdf includes a map)

Pochtova Square 3, River Passenger Terminal.

 

ODESSA (no map)

Primorskaya Street No. 6, Sea Terminal

Interesting to note that Viking includes the address in Cyrillic for its Moscow and St. Petersburg passengers but not for Kiev and Odessa.

Andrea -

Perhaps the addresses omitted is precisely due to what Altiva alludes to - difference between Russian & Ukrainian spelling

I did not have any problems with ship's location. Of all the ports we visited - the only one that the ship changed locations was Sevastopol when we docked in the Count's Harbor 1st Day and were switched to Artillery Harbor early on the morning of Day 2. That said - once moored - that's where it stayed for the duration of the day.

In Odessa - you REALLY do not have to worry. There is only ONE "Sea (Marine) Terminal". Granted - it juts out into the Harbor in such manner that the ships can be moored on either of 3 sides (if you look at some photos you will see that) but that said - you are still in the same place and all-in-all I would not recommend to take it THAT CLOSE to the departure time with the taxi.

The Terminal is clearly seen from the top of the Potemkin Steps so it is very much accessible if you decide to go out for a walk and return - all on foot. If you do engage a taxi - there are 2 options: the cab can drop you off by the main entrance of the terminal and you will descend roughly 2 flights of stairs to the dock (that obviously works if you have no luggage) or it can take you right to the ship but that involves a small entry fee that you must pay for it to get through the gate. (IIRC 5UAH). Either way - you just can't get lost.

Primorskaya St in Russian is Pree-mor-skah-yah Oo-lee-tsah and can be written as Приморская ул. or ул.Приморская (ул. being the St. abbreviation)

here is pretty good site I've used myself and found very helpful http://www.odessaonline.com.ua/eng/

Got a map plus other stuff you may find interesting.

YUP - I hear you!

One of the most funniest moments was when we had a HUUUGE family & friends shindig about 10 years ago.

One of our friends (same as I inasmuch as that he immigrated from USSR while still a teenage eons ago...interestingly enough he is from Kiev) was looking at the photos some time after and somewhat "angrily" commented on "What is the MATTER with "these people" (meaning other "Russians") - they DO NOT SMILE!". 5 or so pictures later - there was his... looking as grim and stern as one can :rolleyes:

Like I said - 2010 proved that they are catching on.

As far as bargaining - do the same in Ukraine. They understand the concept very well (although not in restaurants but if you buy anything from a street vendor, esp. souvenirs and stuff like that)

One more thing I am going to say about Viking Air - dicker and stand your ground. While they are promising "the best available and the most effective" - we all know that it is whatever the "block" they bought of. One of the couples on our cruise was initially scheduled for a 3-stop change over :eek:

Needless to say the gentleman complained profusely and Lo & behold - somehow "mysteriously" :rolleyes: he got a 1-stop over itinerary.

HEY - I live in MontCo. Abington to be exact! Small world!!!!

Love Boston... at least to visit (your prices are a KILLER :D)

Peregrina -

I agree with what you say. Yes unfortunately the tourism in the post-Soviet countries is still not quite up to par that we wish it to be but to give the credit - I already saw a big difference between 2008 and 2010!

The 'eateries' learned how to serve with the smile the fastest (I guess the concept of tips had a LOT to do with it), seems the hotels are beginning to follow (in 2008 I was 'greeted' with the typical Soviet-attitude type of gloomy face behind the check-in counter and any question during subsequent state had to be like being a dentist - PULLED! The same hotel in 2010 was nothing but smiles and a big willingness to help no matter what was asked)

I wouldn't say that the guides on this cruise were UN-knowledgeable - quite the contrary! They simply still have a big language barrier. Our bus guide - Tanya - was actually majoring in French and spoke that language BEAUTIFULLY! She told me that she has no idea why she was assigned to an English-speaking cruise and mine just happened to be this "first one" so on top of everything else - she was NERVOUS as nervous can get.

I hope 2 years hence you will get "better".

Trust me - you are NOT missing anything in Kremenchug! Kanev - AH! _ that i would've LOVEd to visit (if anything that is where Taras Shevchenko - the GREAT (if not GREATEST) Ukrainian poet is buried) but it was not on the itinerary and I don't think it is now... A shame! Maybe Viking will take note :rolleyes:

From what I saw - The InterContinental in Kiev is gorgeous and has a location TO DIE FOR! of course that will come with "applicable price" per night - no doubt - but thought i'd mention it to you!

Yes - the "air deviation"... and unfortunately Viking charges crazy fee for providing this "option". Does Czech Airlines fly from Boston? Remember - mine was 1 hop through Prague (we sat there for roughly 4 hours but at the same time had a nice lunch and drank some Czech beer :p) and landed in Odessa mid-afternoon.

be persistent in your Quest - you WILL find choices... I would just suggest not to tarry too much: seems the dreaded fuel prices are on the rise again and we all know what THAT means :mad:

For the umptiest time - GOOD LUCK!

hi Pete,

always like your posts, but this time you are not right.

First, what Russian language has to do with Ukraine?

Second, Ukrainian language is phonetic - you pronounce the words

exactly the way they are spelled. That is why it's so easy to learn

to read in Ukrainian. Russian language, on the contrary, is

traditional, meaning, that they spelled the words they way they were

spelled centuries ago, the same as English. So, Russians spelled it

shokolad (chocolate) and pronounce it /chikalat/. They spell it

"gorod" (city), and pronounce it /gorat/, and so on and so forth.

Back to your examples:

Restaurant - pronounced /restaran/ in Russian, spelled

"restoran".

Metro - spelled "metro", pronounced /meetro/ (ee like i in the

English word "this")

Vino - wine, spelled "vino", pronounced /vieno/ (ie like in Vienna)

Whereas, in Ukrainian language, what you see - you pronounce, with

the five exceptions.

Sorry to be a spoilsport and such.

Hi Altiva

Uh... did you read my initial post? the one that stated that I WAS BORN in Odessa???

So I dont think I can be considered "ignorant" in the languages - I am quite proficient in both

1. What does Russian has to do with Ukrainian? Nothing much except that from what I saw - most of the people STILL prefer to converse in Russian not Ukrainian (all "nationalist" sentiments aside) just like they did during Soviet times. Granted - there is a LOT MORE of the Ukrainian spoken than then - but I firmly stand my my observation.

And, that said - we are talking about tourism and everywhere I've been - hotels, restaurants and the Cruise about which we are talking here - not a WORD was spoken in Ukrainian (the band on the cruise playing Ukrainian songs - not counting) - it is ALL IN RUSSIAN

Thus, I would humbly put forth that for a tourist who will be in the country for a period of 2 weeks (maybe 3 with extensions) it is better to get familiar with Russian and not Ukrainian

2. Now, as far as pronunciation goes - I think you somewhat misunderstand what I said. I said that there is no 'weird" spelling in Russian as there is in languages like English and French. Using the example I provided - the word "daughter" most likely would be spelled in Russian "doter" because that is how it is pronounced (i.e. no "gh"). Or, if we were to flip-flop - the way it IS spelled it would be pronounced "dah-oo-gkh-er" (даугхер - if you can read Cyrillic)

hence I said - the way you write it is the way you read it and say it

You are talking about dialects which is different (and again - never mind the difference between the Russian and Ukrainian languages - i am talking STRICTLY Russian here)

The differences between the pronunciation of a and o are plentiful in Russian language. Again - if you know the Russian language surely you must be aware of the joking references to O-pronunciation of the Moscow region (i.e. окать по-московски). Chances are the dialects would differ even in Ukraine itself -from Kiev to Odessa (although I DO have to 'take it back" - Odessa as we all know has its own language\dialect that cannot be duplicated ANYWHERE... except perhaps on Brighton Beach in Brooklyn NY :D)

Seriously - if anyone from this cruise (or any other tour) asks where is restoran vs restaran - chances are they will be understood

(and speaking of - one of my American friends here at home who was in Russia when he was a student jokes that the first word he learned how to read was Peck-toh-pah (PECTOPAH). We thought it was rather quite funny).

Anyways - I sincerely hope you can see where it is that I was going with my post and why I said what I said ;)

Sure thing!

of course NOW I can "warn" you that some of the signs are in Ukrainian and that uses slightly different alphabet and sometimes have totally different words :D

but, HECK - as long as you know vodka, vine and cognac (Kohn - YAK) I think you'll be A OK!!!!! ;)

Listen, seriously - I am more than sure that you'll have a wonderful time. We had folks on our cruise that constantly complained...and then there were some that said - "we are BLESSED with being able to see and do this". Go with an open mind and right attitude. Nothing in life is "perfect" but things are only what we make of them

I also believe that current itineraries of Footsteps skip the horrible monuments to Soviet Industry (i.e. Dniepropetrovsk & Kremenchug) and give you an extra day of cruising and another one in Embarkation Ports. You are only "better off" for it - like I said in my original post - I have NO IDEA what we were doing in those places!!!!!

here is something else to ponder on as far as airfare goes if you want to do it yourself. Like I said - there is NO WAY to fly to\from Odessa non-stop but it IS possible to do so as far as Kiev goes. (Borispyl - Kiev's Airport - is much bigger and the traffic is "accordingly")

So... the consideration then is do you want to do Kiev - Odessa or Odessa - Kiev cruise. IMHO - I would do the latter and then catch the N\S flight home (just my personal preference)

As for the alphabet, I guess now that I have a deadline I might actually learn it--and if all I have to do is match the symbols, I should be okay. Just don't ask me to read it out loud.

 

Looking into a private guide is next on my list and Jerry will be my first stop. I have his trip journal printed out for reading after Thanksgiving.

1. The "beauty" of the Russian language is that there are no spelling surprises - the way you write it is the way you read it and say it (the way I always quip about it is that "there is no gh in daughter :))

The easiest things to get into would be the words that are the same in English

Ресторан - Restaurant (pronounce Res - toh- rahn)

Кафе - cafe (Kah - feh)

Кофе - coffee (Koh - feh)

Метро - metro (Met - roh)

Пицца - pizza (same)

Водка - vodka (Vod -kah)

Вино - Wine (Vee - noh)

2. There are 2 outfits that I worked with while in Ukraine as far as Tour Agencies\Private guides.

The Empire VIP Club (lena@empire-tour.net) in Odessa and

Sergey Tsarapora (sergo22yalta at gmail.com) in Crimea

I had great experiences with both and wholeheartedly recommend their services.

Hello Everyone

I did The Footsteps Cruise in May 2010 - you can find my musings on it at http://boards.cruisecritic.com/showthread.php?p=31362071&posted=1#post31362071

Couple of things I want to mention here without repeating what I said in the above post (as based on some questions):

1. Air - I booked my own. There is no direct flights to Odessa so be prepared for at least one hop. In 2008 I flew Aerosvit (Ukrainian airline) JFK --> Kiev --> Odessa (and reverse going back). The price was dirt cheap (and probably is still the cheapest on the market) but the whole experience was SOOOOO BAD (plane delays, the condition of the planes, the service....) that I vowed NEVER to fly that Airline again!!!!

So for the cruise time I got Delta-affiliated partners. I flew Czech Airlines JFK --> Prague --> Odessa and then Air France Kiev --> Paris --> JFK

2. Local water - I spent a week in Odessa prior to the Cruise and stayed in town for 10 days in 2008. The water is FINE! if you want to drink bottled water - there are plenty places to buy some available throughout the cruise (and they provide a bottle of water in your cabin every day free... and I am sure that if you ask for another - they will give it to you)

3. Extensions - again we spent a week in Odessa pre-cruise. had a WONDERFUL Time. Would've LOVED to spend couple of extra days in Kiev as well but the schedule didn't allow it (as it was - we already were vacationing for 3 weeks, so it was time to 'get back to reality' ;))

My photos can be found at http://www.kodakgallery.com/gallery/creativeapps/slideShow/Main.jsp?sourceId=533754321803&cm_mmc=eMail-_-Share-_-Photos-_-legacy&localeid=en_US&h=1

I dont know why but it looks to me that the order got all jumbled. If you can get past that (and the fact that there are 804 of them :D) you'll see what to expect.

Actually - I just figured it out (its not as bad as I thought) - start from pic 223 (JFK Delta Club) go to the end and then "wrap around to 1". The cruise-related pictures start at 390

Hope this helps to a lot of folks.

In re: other Cruise Companies that do the like itinerary -

I just came across Vantage Travel.

Their itinerary is close to Viking but not quite the same (and because of the difference - more expensive).

Check it out in order to compare: http://www.vantagetravel.com/Trip/Trips.aspx?TripID=1460

Hope that helps

To my best knowledge - this is it. Other companies may include Odessa and\or Crimea Ports as part of their Mediterranean Cruises but nothing that will take you onto Dnieper

HMH - Sorry that it took me so long but, as you have noticed, if the idea is to look forwrd to 2012 - then perhaps it is not too late.

What TravelerThom said is correct. Category "E" is the cheapest one however the size of the cabin is the same for the whole deck (i.e. Cat "D" as well) so upgrading on the same deck wont get you any more room space.

The beds are located exactly as Thom described - one ends at the bathroom wall (thats the one I slept at) and the other one is open (my wife slept there)

Although we are not as tall as your husband - there were no problems

The shower info is also correct - it is what Viking calls "yacht style". The curtain blocks off the toilet seat and the towel rack (so make SURE to move all your cosmetics, dental stuff, etc to that area). There is a lever on the shower that controls whether the water will flow into the shower or the sink faucet - doesn't take too long to figure it all out. Plenty of hot water, good water pressure... all-in-all a good showering experience.

Actually yes - there were some folks that were going to "Waterways of the Tzars" cruise once this one was done (I dont recall anyone being on this cruise that just returned from Russia but thats not to say it can't be done)

I guess if one has time - it is no problem to tackle another cruise on no matter which one (I mean one can fly back to Europe for one of those cruises just as well)

OK... one just does not know how much of work it is to upload all the photos, etc.... :eek:

So... here are mine as uploaded into Kodak Gallery

http://www.kodakgallery.com/ShareLanding.action?c=4wggos7g.6v8mbmk8&x=0&h=1&y=-48n89k&localeid=en_US

I have to "forewarn" anyone that there are 804 pics in there - I tend to get "trigger happy" and the results are lots of pics to begin with and then there are close ups of building details and chandeliers... :rolleyes:

Anyways - if any brave souls out there willing to sit through it all - you'll see quite a lot of what I wrote above

Altiva - looking at your photos, I wonder if you guys "caught up" to us in Yalta on May 16th?

I have photos of Costa Marina docked right across us (actually watched it come in early that morning about 7 am or so)

Well - just shows how rusty my Ukrainian has become :D

No matter - the Restaurant is great be it a cousin or a liquid vessel :p

Deb - I know EXACTLY what you mean!!! Like I said - there is a REASON why I usually stay away from "organized" tours... somewhere along the line it does winds up bing hurry up-and-wait experience and there are just too many of situations that can arise because of other folks.

A good example of one of such cases happened to us in Kremenchug (I think) where, as we were walking to a Vorontzov's Palace (the guy, it seems, had palaces ALL OVER UKraine! :rolleyes:) one of the ladies decided to use an ATM, did something wrong and the stupid thing wouldnt release her card. Needless to say she satarted screeching, the group stopped, the guide went over to help her.... they did manage to get the card free 20 mins later.... and we got a WHOOPING 2 mins to look at the palace :mad:

I have NO IDEA WHY it was important to this lady to use the ATM in the middle of a tour but she did and in process messed everyone else up....

Individual tours is the way to go whenever it is possible. I dont need to see 100 sites, especially if they are flying by your bus window on that "city tour". I'd rather see 10 but at my own pace and with full comprehention of what it is that I am looking at....

To give some background to our trip - I was born in Odessa Ukraine, and have been contemplating for some time to introduce my wife to the city and the country of which she heard so much. The Odessa-Kiev cruise on Viking Lomonosov provided a possibility to do so with an added bonus of "highlighting" Crimea as well.

We decided to fly to Odessa roughly a week earlier than the cruise, spent some time there and then board the ship. Because of this I also booked my own air and was responsible for all applicable transfers....

The time in Odessa was very good! The exchange rate definitely works for us as it was hovering about 7.90 UAH (give or take few kopecks) for $1.00 so stuff is just… dirt cheap

I got one of the hackers to take us to hotel from the airport for only 50 UAH (and believe it or not – they started from 200 UAH so haggling and standing one’s ground does pay off)

The hotel Black Sea (Chornoye Morye) was good (we had one of the cheapest rooms with 2 single beds and a shower (not bathtub) but the room was on 11th floor with balcony, had a small refrigerator\bar (don’t drink anything out of that – you can get stuff from any grocery store much cheaper and just store it in the refrigerator if so desired) and was clean and everything in working order – I was leaving 10 UAH every morning for the maid…). We got it for 500 UAH\night which was about $63.00 and paid for breakfast separately (70.00 UAH\pp) when we ate it in hotel (buffet style and plenty of food)

One more thing I want to mention about the room – the shower is small and is located on a rather high platform so it’s a bit of an “adventure” but manageable. However if you don’t think you guys can manage it – the same room w\tub is about $90.00\night and a semi-suite w\queen bed is $100 – the choice is yours.

The hotel also provides a small map of downtown area in English so you should be fine with that

We ate dinners at following restaurants: The 4 Bulgarians (Chetyre Bolgarina), Robin Bobbin (seems to be a chain), The Cousin (Kumanetz), Fry & Steam (Zharyu-Paryu) café & The Steakhouse (actual name of the place) – all is nothing short of delicious and the most we spent for meal was about $80.00 with booze & 20% tips included (keep in mind everything in Odessa is ala-carte so this was with an appetizer(s), sometimes a soup, main course, a side dish and coffee\tea; sometimes dessert – btw the coffee is to die for since they pretty much serve espresso)

Some light fares at various street cafes and their milk shakes (they call them “Freshis” (I guess from English Fresh)) are very tasty and inexpensive.

We also ate in a Georgian Café called Suliko (some absolutely AWESOME Georgian Cuisine!)when I met some of my classmates but I’d be pressed to send anyone there simply because it is not downtown and you’d have a bit of time finding it

There are 2 entrances to the hotel – the main one is on Malaya Arnautskaya and the side one – on Richel’yevskaya. If you come out the main entrance and turn right – crossing Richel’yevskaya and Yekaterinskaya (next block) – Robin Bobbin Restaurant that I spoke about will be on the middle of next block and across the street there is a small grocery store with the same name in case you want to stock up on water and what-have-you (they also sell booze) In Russian - Робин Бобин

The 4 Bulgarians (in Russian 4 Болгарина) – go the same way but turn Right on Yekaterinskaya and at some point cross to the other side. It is perhaps 4 blocks or so away

Going out on Richel’yevskaya and turning right – the $$$ exchange place is literally next building (although they are liberally sprinckled all over the town). Continuing that way will get you downtown right to the Opera Theater – perhaps a 20 min walk at most. Any of the parallel streets (Yekaterinskaya, Pushkinskaya, Preobrazhenskaya) will do the same (i.e. get you downtown)

Kumanetz (Russian Куманец) is off Langeronovskaya (a tiny little street right before you get to Opera theater – turn left) and Gavannaya – right on the corner

The Steakhouse (Russian Стэйкхаус) is on Deribasovskaya before you reach Gavannaya corner (cant miss it – its got a cow in front of it J)

Just to reiterate that there is an abundance of various restaurants on Deribasovskaya and even other streets. There are some Irish Pubs, sushi places, a Kobe Steakhouse (right across from Opera – but expensive – 435.00 UAH for a steak) and a chain called Top Sandwich (Russian: Топ Сэндвич) as well as abundance of pizza places. Pretty much every café has something to eat as well

In any case – I don’t think anyone has to worry about food J

I contacted The Empire VIP Club (lena@empire-tour.net) and arranged a private tour of catacombs for us for $100.00. They picked us up from the hotel on the day we checked out (nice A\C’d cab, plenty of room for luggage and comfy sittings), provided an interpreter who accompanied us to Nerubaiskoye Village (and told some of the Odessa history while getting there) where we went through the tour and adjacent museum with a local guide (our interpreter was translating what he was saying) and then took us straight to the ship. It was very well worth it (about 3 hours total time).

The tickets for the tour were additional 30 UAH and I tipped the guide 10 UAH, the driver 20 UAH and the interpreter – 50 UAH (so perhaps another $14.00 or so)

Outside that – we did a lot of stuff on our own but that’s where my language knowledge does come in handy in many ways. We saw an Opera (Madama Butterfly) in Opera\Ballet theater (130 UAH\pp for the BEST seats in the house (wound up being Tzar’s Box!)), took a side trip to Belgorod-Dnestrovsk to see the Ackerman Fortress and stuck our faces into Local Lore and (Russian) Art Museums (there is a Museum of Western Art but those galleries were closed for renovation and we were not interested in those that remained open – mainly Oriental exhibitions)

So now - the ship…

The ship is very simple – library, 2 bars (one forward and one aft), 2 restaurants (while we were assigned to Kiev restaurant the seating is open for all meals which gives you a chance to mingle with fellow passengers) and a sun deck – otherwise just a hallways with cabins on both sides (4 decks total). Our cabin (229) was 90 sq.ft – the TINIEST we’ve ever seen J but we were able to get everything out of suitcases and store them away with no problem so it was quite cozy and comfy (besides its not like we spent TOO much time in it)

Actually it turned out to be a good location since all the cabins have a large window but all are overlooking a given deck so one has to be mindful of the situation least some fellow cruisers will catch you de-flagrante J The Main deck is “Crew” deck – so we hardly had anyone moving past our window and we were literally steps away from the Front Desk and the disembarking doors (proves a good thing when the crowds begin to gather to go ashore)

BY FAR – it is the most passive cruise EVER! There is no “activities” on board for those mornings\afternoons that you are cruising – I reckon the idea is for you to sit on the deck and soak up the scenery…but then you kinda ease in into this “lazy” lifestyle…and if need be – there are books and games in library, they were showing movies on TV (mostly tapes not live but that’s OK) and there were appropriate lectures on Ukraine History in general and ports-of-call when appropriate.

Food was AWESOME (surprisingly I did not gain an ounce case you KNOW I was eating like a pig (or make it 2 pigs) J). They are also liberal with that wine that comes as a part of the package – once its starts flowing you can ask for refills and they will give it to you no questions asked. The drinks at the bar are good (the best LIIT I’ve ever tasted) and they use top shelf brands (drink of the day was about 55 UAH). Draft beer (Slavutitch – Ukrainian Beer) is very good and actually is cheaper than Coke (28 UAH vs 30 UAH for the same size glass)

Speaking of Coke – all soft drinks are charged even during the meals. At the same - water and iced tea are available with meals, 4 juices are there for breakfast and there is a coffee machine on Middle Deck that works 24/7 (and like I said – wine is flowing during the dinner) so we were not hurting for soda. They also give you a 1 liter bottle of water in the cabin (if need be – replenished every day). And there is no limit on stuff you can buy while in port and bring back into cabin (there is a small fridge). You KNOW some folks were dragging booze in on daily basis J If you want to serve it at the dinner though – its 80 UAH cork fee charge.

The stuff is very friendly and helpful but their English is limited – if you “overstep the boundaries” by asking some unfamiliar question – they will give you a blank look and say Yes (with the same friendly smile…. But that’s about it)

The weather while in Odessa and Crimea was just perfect! Couple of showers but kinda “passing by” or we hit everything at the right time (rained while we were in transit or inside the building) so that was not an issue aside carting the jackets with us some days and the temps were in upper 70s to upper 80s

The 1st days into the river it did change to cooler (upper 50s – mid 60s) but bearable. Unfortunately 1 day was a complete wash out - we were lucky that we just finished watching the Cossack Horse Show when the skies literally opened up and we were shooed-in back onto buses thus cutting short the rest of the visit (kinda was a bummer since this was on Khortitsa Island where Ukrainian (Zaporozhye) Cossacks started from as I was looking forward to view some of the fortifications and such) and the next 2 were kinda gloomy as well (it would periodically drizzle on and off – just enough to be a slight nuisance here-and-there). But by the time we got to Kiev it was all nice and sunny again

The “included” tours…well… they just cemented my reason of trying to stay away from organized tours (but then it is exactly the reason why I DO stay away from them). You are assigned the bus in the beginning of the cruise so the same driver and guide will be with you for duration. There were 28 people on our bus (it does not seem like the cruise was sold-out) and most of the folks are in their 70s so… time to get on get off… and pretty much running through museums and other exhibits – not much you can do just go with the flow. (Be prepared to hear & see a lot of WWII (or as they call it The Great Patriotic War) stuff esp. since they are celebrating 65 years of VE Day this year)

That said I was only too happy that I hired a private guide for all 4 days in Crimea. He was a great guy, had his own A\Cd little car (which did come handy in some places that the bus would not even DREAM to go through), very knowledgeable, enthusiastic and … just everything you want to ask for in a guide!

To make a long story short – we hit EVERY place that Viking advertized as “optional” tours (even when one had to choose between “tour 1” or “tour 2”) and THEN SOME! He got us into places that are closed to tourist crowds and pretty much I got everything I wished for (the only thing that was on my list that I didn’t get to do was to take a cable car to the top of Ai-Petri (St Peter’s) Mountain but that’s only because Viking told me that the ship would be leaving Yalta at 2:00 pm and it actually did at 1:00 pm – which lost us that hour and is not in any way Sergey’s (the guide’s) fault). All in all I paid him $510.00 $50.00 of which was a tip and was also paying whatever the entry fees to places were. So maybe the whole experience ran me $600-650 (tops) but again it was well worth it for me because of what we saw & did vs what the rest of the crowd did (or, obviously – didn’t). If you are interested – contact him at sergo22yalta at gmail.com (again his name is Sergey). You most certainly can tell him that I recommended J

To highlight one examle of what I just told you – I have photos of me sitting in Stalin’s cabinet behind his desk and Sergey and I in Molotov’s quarters - both are taken at Yusupov’s Palace which was where Russian Delegation was HQ’d during Yalta Conference (US Delegation was at Livadia (White) Palace (included in Itinerary) and Brits were at Vorontzov’s (Alupka) Palace – optional tour). The place originally belonged to Prince Felix Yusupov’s parents and the big claim to fame here is that Price Felix is the one who murdered Rasputin

In any case – nothing that any other fellow cruiser even dreamt of remotely seeing….

There is not much to see & do in Dnepropetrovsk and Kremenchug – they are just “1/2-dead monuments” to Soviet industry and I honestly have no idea as to why they are on the itinerary (I’d much more to skip one or both of them and spent that time in Kiev) but I'm not the one who makes the itinerary.

No matter what – the time in Kiev is simply NOT ENOUGH so make the best of what you’ll see on organized tours! The ship arrives in Kiev shortly after lunch and you practically immediately carted off onto the tours of St. Sophia Cathedral and the Kiev_Pecherskaya Monastery of the Caves (once more - NOT ENOUGH TIME AT ALL!!!!) Upon the reurn - you have a choice – either free time (shopping etc) or take a Jewish Kiev tour (to Babi Yar and the Main Synagogue). The tour is not advertized in Viking brochures and is 330 UAH pp; lasts approximately 2 hours and is a somber experience if you are familiar with the Babi Yar (done with a very knowledgeable English speaking local guide)

I spent about $300.00 in tips all around (ship personnel and local guides) and ran up perhaps a $150.00 bill on board which included the above tour and some souvenirs. – again PITTANCE since it was all in Hrivnas

I also have to mention that they take away your passports for the duration of the cruise (no reason to make any scenes or protests as that wont help any) they give you some tail of a whale about customs but it’s a lie – probably a left-over appendix from "good old" Soviet times. In any case – they give you a card (one per person) with your name, cabin # and bus # instead and it serves as your ID and also a “whereabouts” tool inasmuch as that you have to give them your cabin key for these cards every time you go ashore and thus exchange back upon return – so they can see if anyone is “still out”. They are not computerized at all in that sense – all on board stuff is still done via signing individual purchase receipts. Once your bill is settled (last “cruising” morning on the way to Kiev) – you get the passports back.

At the last day I simply decided not to go through the hustle of haggling with either cab drivers or hackers about the fare to Borispol Airport and just let the Front Desk order me one of their "affiliate" cabs. The taxi was there 10 mins before the scheduled time - nice, clean & comfortable car. The trip took about 40 mins and the fare was 300.00 UAH (+ 30 UAH tip). Thus - as far as my "transfers" go I think I beat the Viking price hands down....

So in conclusion – there are some setbacks but on the overall – a very worthy experience.

I will try to post some pictures in the Photo Gallery Section

I think the one thing everyone who tries it needs to keep in mind and that is "make sure you get back to your ship on-time (i.e. before it sails to the next port)".

Speaking of - what is the "norm" when it comes to being back on ship "on time"?

1/2 before ship sails?

(Sailing on Viking Lomonosov doing Footsteps of the Cossacks)

A previous thread has some more responses and links to ship's 'biography' incl. some pictures.

http://boards.cruisecritic.com/showthread.php?t=393617

grear memories indeed :o

Discontinued items on cruise lines:

Well Dressed Passengers - 1998

Well Behaved Passengers - -1999

LOL...sad but true!

Actually will NEVER forget when for our last formal night aboard S.S. Seabreaze a man showed up in a vest over his NAKED HAIRY TORSO!!!! :eek:

(Ok, he DID have pants on...thank GOD!!! :rolleyes: )

But... he was allowed into the Dining Room and everywhere else throughout the night clad like this!

No, I don't think it was a joke or a bet!!!!