WCB

Report #86 Sunday March 26, 2023 Abidjan, Ivory Coast Docked Starboard Side To Pier 8am-5pm Overcast, Hot And Humid Becoming Sunny In The Afternoon 92 Degrees Part #1 Of 5.......72 Pictures Today we are in Abidjan, Cote D’Ivoire, a new port for us and many others we know. The population is 23.4 million people that speak primarily French as well as several African native dialects. The capital is Yamoussoukro in the interior of the country. Also known as the Ivory Coast, this country has a similar history of civil war as the previous stops. However, these days, it is making a comeback. The coastline is reportedly full of starfish-studded sandy beaches with palm tree forests and roads of orange soil. It is said that the soil resembles bronzing powder. Funny that should be mentioned, because the more you drive on these dusty roads, the more orange sands you will be wearing. Some of the country’s hidden secrets are nut-cracking chimps in the forest of Parc National de Tai. There are beach resorts outside of Abidjan with lagoons, skyscrapers, cathedral spires and surf beaches. Nightlife is said to be unmatched. Exactly where, we are not sure. We never saw the downtown area today. What do they like to eat? Grilled fish with grated cassava, which we believe to be manioc root, or chicken and guinea fowl simmered with veggies are some of the favorites. The drink is Flag beer although we read that Tuborg has a brewery here. A random fact is that fewer than 300 elephants are in the Ivory Coast due to poaching many years ago. The day began with the Zuiderdam sailing into the estuary where several docks were located. The one assigned to us was an empty sand lot with a new berth. Nothing else was there. We did see a sign saying that a new terminal is in the works for this spacious property. It was overcast once again and the temperature was 84 degrees. High humidity is always present. When the sun did peek through the clouds, the heat was brutal. One bad thing was seeing rafts of garbage, mostly plastic bottles and wrappers floating by. They even had herons walking on top of the piles, looking for food. One lone red kite flew over the floating raft of trash. Suzanne, who had recently completed the Grand Africa voyage in the fall, said their dock had been covered with so much garbage, it had to be cleared before anyone debarked. Luckily, we were in a different spot today. Five excursions were offered and all of them had lunch included. Akwaba Abidjan was $170 for 6 hours, while both Colonial Grand Bassam and a taste of Ivoirian cuisine and culture were $210 for 6 hours. Finally, a trip to Banco National Park was $220 for 6 hours, and Abidjan and the Botanical Gardens of Bingerville was $280 for 6 hours as well. Right off the bat, there was a switcheroo with the shuttle stop. Originally we had been informed that the free bus would take the guests to the Pullman Hotel. But the Daily Program listed the shuttle as going to an Arts and Craft Market outside the city center. For those of us that researched the area in and around the Pullman Hotel, we’ll have to start over. And today being a Sunday, we have been warned that most everything will be closed. And yet another incentive to book an excursion on the ship perhaps? There were shuttle bus problems from the start. Too many people, not enough buses. It was up to a thirty minute ride each way to this market, and for what it appeared, there was only one bus. When the guests began pouring off of the gangway at 9:30am, Ian had to announce for them not to wait outside in the hot sun, but go for a cup of coffee as the bus would not return for a half hour. Buses held up to 55 guests, and there was a line 100 deep. Doing the math, we might as well wait until noontime before leaving. We had a lot of computer work to do anyway to stay caught up. By the way, none of the crew members would be allowed off of the ship today, as if that should make everyone feel better about the lack of buses provided? We cannot begin to imagine the grumblings going on where the folks were waiting for those shuttles near the gangway. Bet it was not a pretty sight. In the meantime, we could hear some pretty strange music or chanting coming from across the estuary. Could be church services or tribal gatherings – nothing we recognized. We stayed onboard until close to 12:30pm, then went off of the gangway right into the waiting bus. At least we were grateful those tiny shuttles were not being used like yesterday. The ride to the Arts and Craft Market took us away from the downtown area to a more industrial part of town. The further we drove, the worse it looked. Turning down a narrow one-way dirt road, we were dropped off at the “hidden market”, entering through an unadorned opening. Some folks, especially the single ladies, never left the bus when they saw this entrance as we could not see the market for the tightly squeezed tents. We had come this far, and decided not to back out now. Deeper into the maze of covered stalls, we felt like we had entered the identical market we saw in Banjul, The Gambia, 5 years ago, only on a smaller scale…and no produce or meat market. The treasures resembled those of the Gambia as well or even Senegal. Anyway, there were souvenirs galore here, which included wood carvings, trinkets, woven baskets, masks, some costume jewelry, hand-made batik dolls with matching bags, fans, and purses. Being careful not to point, we did look everything over and decided there were some possible things to buy. One was a leather (?) purse, but they were asking too much. Four times too much. We passed on it. Other items were cute African dolls dressed with the colorful batik. This worked for $6 and will be easy to pack and weighed little. The last purchase was a pair of beaded sandals in the correct size, which is difficult to find. No Cinderella slippers for me. The price was right at $22. After about an hour of exploring, we boarded the waiting bus for the ride back to the pier. We did notice that some of the entertainment crew members were on this shuttle, so they are allowed to leave over the regular workers. We were back onboard the cool ship by 2pm after being greeted by Nik our dining room waiter. Room service lunch arrived by 2:15pm, indicating there is no problem once again with them being overwhelmed. We ordered beef paninis and a shared Caesar salad. The size of the salad has been reduced because we suspect they are running out of the produce. Only green apples are left, so we had better stock up for a few days before they run out. All aboard was 4:30pm, and before leaving, the Captain mentioned something about confusion over the time. Yesterday, GMT had observed daylight savings time, putting their clocks ahead one hour. The ship did not spring ahead, but many of the guest’s computers, GPS watches, cameras, and other devices had done it. No sense going ahead to go back in a day. So they did nothing. So confusing, as long as we were not late to dinner we joked. The ship sailed out of the huge estuary and past the bulkheads with scores of locals watching us leave. Something tells us this was a special event, and not many cruise ships stop here on a regular basis. Once outside the harbor, a breeze picked up and it was actually comfortable on the veranda again. Tonight’s attire was suggested as “sporty”. What did that mean we asked. Reading the program, it tied to a sports themed evening of events such as trivia, majority rules game, and a sports commentary challenge. People were encouraged to wear sport team colors or t-shirts, jeans, and baseball caps. A few even came dressed to dinner that way. Not our tablemates, we are just happy to figure out the menu and what a lot of descriptive words mean. Barb discovered that jambalaya meant a pile of rice and mixed boiled veggies dotting the rice with a few spicy shrimp. Next time if she orders the dish, she will request to have half the rice, no veggies, and only a pile of shrimp. Susie did contribute her little ear of corn from her BBQ rib plate giving it to Barb. We had one trout dish, which really looked just like salmon, and one prime rib meal medium rare. The horseradish was so hot it burned the lips. Both meals were good. Only orange slices, honeydew melon, and mangos were available for the fruit plate, so we ordered jello instead. We have two sea days before reaching The Gambia, which will become just another sea day for many of us. Bill & Mary Ann

Greetings all! As for the World Cruise 2024, we are deposited. Whether we do it or not is to be determined. Thanks for the research on the cocoa bean production. We would have guessed somewhere totally different, such as Mexico. Bill & Mary Ann

Report #85 Saturday March 25, 2023 Takoradi, Ghana 8am-5pm Docked Starboard Side To Pier Overcast Skies Hot And Humid 92 Degrees Part #1 Of 4........60 Pictures The country of Ghana is one of Africa’s success stories, and our port of call for today. Their economy has been stabilized with fast-paced developments as well. It is full of coastal forts, beautiful beaches, rich culture, and vibrant cities along with much wildlife. Cape Coast Castle was once the site of the world’s most important slave-holding areas. Horrors of the trade are revealed in an hour long tour to see the dark and damp dungeons where the natives were brought two to twelve weeks before being transported overseas. On the other hand, the governor’s house was blessed with floor to ceiling windows with panoramic views of the ocean. This excursion was not offered today. What kind of food to they like here? Hot fiery sauces for one. Oily soups with rice, mashed cassava, baked plantains and yams are some of their favorites. There are lots of Chinese and Indian foods served here. The most common dish is ground nut stew, a spicy dish with ground nut paste and ginger over meat or fish. Mole National Park offers the cheapest safaris in Africa with 300 species of birds, and 94 species of animals. Large numbers of elephant are there from December through April. You must go with an armed ranger to see them though. Too far for any of us to see from the port of Takoradi. A random fact is that Ghana produces one-fifth of the world’s cocoa beans, making it the world’s 2nd largest producers. Does anyone know who is number one? We are not sure. Tours here included a visit to a cocoa farm for $200 for 4 ¾ hours. Twin cities of Takoradi and Sekundi was $280 for 3 ¾ hours, while Kakum Forest Canopy walkway was $390 for 7 ¼ hours. A very long day. The Zuiderdam arrived late to the port of Takoradi today, like about 8am. It was already 84 degrees with very cloudy skies and humid as can be. The ship was docked starboard because there was an extensive safety drill involving the tender boats, which were dropped in the harbor. It is always interesting for us to watch these drills, knowing how qualified the crew is in case of an emergency. Breakfast has become more fun as the days go by, because so much information is shared among us. It seems that the more precise details have come out involving the recent outbreak of the illness. Sadly, some of the elderly guests have been hit hard, due to dehydration. It can be deadly especially in this Equatorial heat. We also heard a story regarding one of the “foodie” tours in Luanda. One of the tasting items happened to be grubs….yes bugs. Those that indulged were very sick by the time they returned to the ship, and that was most everyone on the tour. We left the ship after the safety drill finished at 10:30am. A craft market had been set up on the pier, contrary to what we had been told yesterday. This was much better, since many guests were able to find treasures within a short distance from the ship and did not need to take the small shuttle to downtown. One such lady had purchased a huge wood-carved elephant, then had it loaded on her motorized scooter and drove it up the gangway into the ship. She must either have unlimited shipping or lives in Florida near the pier. We will have to price that one out on the way back from our ride and check out all of the other offerings. The small free shuttle needed two more customers, so we hopped in and squeezed into the last two seats. The ride through several gates took us out to the main road. Thank goodness it was a short ride. There were no taxis outside the gate as we had been told. And there was no stop at any hotel in town. The ride ended in the downtown area where a massive central market used to exist. The entire complex had been demolished since it had been condemned due to unsafe construction. It had been an accident waiting to happen we were told. A new stadium-like covered structure is being built, but it will be a long time before it is completed. So the vendors that were once housed in the market, are now located outside in the streets with their wares partially covered with large umbrellas. Most of it is open-air. “Helter skelter” was the only way to describe the area once we left the shuttle. But wait…..there’s more. Before being allowed to exit the bus, a local taxi boss announced that he could supply a $15 to $20 taxi ride for four people to Sekundi, a nearby fishing town. And there was no need to pay your driver until you returned to the shuttle stop. We don’t know if he got many customers, as we wandered up the street to the outdoor market. Perhaps not as bad as “squalor” as Greg described the town, this marketplace was a beehive of activity. And not the cleanest place we have ever been. We’re guessing we hit this produce and clothing market at their busiest time – a Saturday where most locals shop for the weekend. It was an attack on the senses watching the most colorfully-dressed local ladies selling everything from veggies and fruit to already cooked chickens and fish. Nothing was covered and the meat and fish were full of flies. Seeing a pile of partially cooked and parted meat, we guessed it may have been goat meat. Perhaps the locals buy the meat, then cook it all day in a soup or stew. For the most part, the ladies objected to having us take photos of their fish and chicken on display without being covered. They balked and waved their arms as we walked by. Meaning no harm, we better ask first before filming anything. Many of these young women were nice, but those that objected were quite rude to all of us that walked past them. I felt that I might be wearing one of the smelly fishes unless we dropped the camera in our pocket. Now the local men pretty much sat on the sidewalks watching, saying nothing. Except for some banks and pharmacies, the buildings we were passing were empty shells. Everything for sale was in the streets. We also had to be most careful of the car traffic because the drivers do not stop. They just slow down and keep going while beeping their horns. They missed us by inches if we did not move out of their way quickly enough. Or perhaps, they were aiming at us….. Wandering up the streets, we could have easily gotten lost. We did notice that the things being sold here were not the same items we saw on the pier. Not even close. Running into Gyl and Howard, we all agreed that this was an interesting experience, but it was time to head back to the ship. Even they nixed the idea of taking a taxi to nearby Sekundi, expecting to see more of the same, but 7 miles away. Locating the shuttle pick up spot, we squeezed inside and got back to the pier by 12:30pm, where we looked over the souvenir tents. An ambulance had its back doors opened, waiting for another guest to be taken to a hospital we assume. This seems to be happening way too often. The only treasure one of us purchased was a pair of beaded earrings to match a necklace bought while in the safari camp. The wood carved elephant was $100, but the vendor may have bargained more if we were really interested. Believe us, it would have been a “what were we thinking” moment once we got home. And besides, it weighed a ton. The closer we looked at these souvenirs, we realized they resembled what we saw while in Dakar, Senegal five years ago. They will travel a long distance to sell their treasures to the cruise ship crowd… it’s easy money. The air-conditioned ship felt so good. We had expected rain, but it did not happen. What a mess that would have been in town. We ordered room service lunch with soup and a sandwich. There was no lunch out today, and there probably will not be any in the upcoming ports either. Come to think of it, we never saw one restaurant, café, or bar in town today. The hotels must be located out of town as are the coastal beaches, central forts, and more vibrant cities. It sure was not here in Takoradi today. There was a mandatory muster check between 3 and 5pm, and all guests had to attend. That took all of five minutes….so easy these days. Then we had to watch the safety drill in our rooms, or else the TV would not work. We are good for another 30 days now. Relaxing on our veranda, we watched as red kites, a bird of prey, flew overhead. They are partial migrants, and measure 26 inches from beak to tail. They weigh under 3 pounds, but are capable of eating small mammals, worms, and scavenge dead animals. There were two of them, but eventually we saw a dozen. They can soar up to 82 feet high in search of food. All aboard was 4:30pm but the Captain said we were waiting for a pilot to board, or even waiting on a late tour. In the meantime, two tugs positioned to assist the ship. It seemed to be taking forever, so one of the tugs began turning on a dime and also playing the Star- Spangled Banner loudly on a speaker. No kidding. People applauded and cheered them as they repeated it a few times. We were lucky to see this from our veranda. The Captain also announced the sunrise and sunset was 6:15, which remains the same on the Equator. There are 12 hours of daylight and 12 hours of darkness. And always hot and humid. It did cool down once we left the harbor at about 6pm, passing numerous rudimentary fishing boats. Dinner had all present. There was a Ghana fish stew on the menu, but after seeing this fish in the open air today, that stew sounded not so good. We had one wiener schnitzel and one salmon dinner, with starters of breaded shrimp and a Caesar salad. We did not notice any difference with the menu as far as missing veggies. Whatever can be peeled and cooked well should be fine. Ice cream seems to be the most ordered item at our table. We are holding out for rocky road, which seems to be hidden in the deep depths of the freezer. Another new port for us tomorrow…..Abidjan, Cote D‘Ivoire. Bill & Mary Ann

Many thanks for your uplifting well-wishes, LouChamp. We appreciate it. Certainly HAL is not the only cruise lines with issues. Hi Monte and Margaret, We considered the 0/0 exercise a unique experience. Nice for everyone onboard. We are staying as safe as possibly can be under the circumstances. Thanks for your concern and wonderful compliments. Made our day. Bill & Mary Ann

Report #84 Friday March 24, 2023 Day At Sea Enroute To Takoradi, Ghana Crossing The Equator Day And 0 Degrees Latitude & 0 Degrees Longitude Overcast And Muggy With Rain Showers 85 Degrees 4-5' swell Part #1 Of 1...........0 Pictures Today began heavily overcast with slight seas, a gentle swell, and rain predicted. The temperature was 84 degrees at 11 am, but would eventually cool down due to passing squalls. We even had some thunder and lightning on this special day of crossing the Equator at the Prime Meridian or 0 degrees North 0 degrees East. But more on that later. The King Neptune Ceremony took place at 10am in the Lido poolside with many onlookers. A maritime tradition, those in charge had skipped this event the first time the Zuiderdam crossed the line back on January 16th. The usual shenanigans took place, but as always, it was the crew members only used as the pollywogs and the shellbacks. And not to be missed was the “kiss the fish” penalty with the ugliest fish that could be found. Within an hour after the event, we received personalized certificates proving we did it…….once again. The more interesting fact about this event today was that we would also be crossing the Prime Meridian at the exact same point as the Equator. Try as we might, we could not locate the Ocean Data Acquisition System Weather Buoy, which is named the “Soul”. It is supposed to be permanently anchored at those co-ordinates, but we never spotted it. Captain Frank reached these precise co-ordinates at 11:14am then he blew the horn. Now just for fun, we suspect, he stopped the ship and turned until we reached a four corners situation. He was able to position the ship where it was in four difference zones at the same time. This was quite a trick to get the portside on the west side of the Prime Meridian, and the starboard side on the east side of it. In addition, the bow of the ship was in the Northern Hemisphere, above the Equator, while the aft section was in the Southern Hemisphere, below the Equator. When the numbers were exact, he blew the horn again. How cool was that? Perhaps the excitement in the Captain’s activities today will help lift the heavy mood that has descended among the troops (the guests). The more we talk to many of our long- time fellow cruisers, the more we are hearing the disappointment with their comments regarding the changes with this world cruise. The general consensus is that the heart and soul of the experience has been taken out of the equation. With the recent health issues affecting so many people, the mood has dropped even more. We agree with everyone that the wonderful crew has been over-the-top with their attempt to please everyone, but they can only do so much. It’s not their responsibility to carry the load. Perhaps being on a different ship has some of the longtime guests feeling off as this particular class of ships is not as conductive to seeing people as being on the Amsterdam, for instance. It’s a hard thing to put your finger on all of the reasons, we just know that many folks are not coming back to next year’s grand voyage. HAL has come out with more voyages that are of a longer duration, and that is appealing to many of these seasoned cruisers. Despite the fact that the dining service has returned to normal (more or less), more guests are becoming ill. We are hearing many conflicting stories about the source of this illness, which was originally explained as a derivative of the Noro-virus. Now the scuttlebutt has it that the bug is bacterial, such as a type of food poisoning. At least three of our close friends have been treated with different antibiotics to combat the symptoms. Something like E-coli comes to mind, God forbid. For the first time ever, we all got a notice tonight that some of the ships fresh fruits and vegetables have been reduced (or eliminated) in an abundance of caution for the health and well-being of all onboard. Are they saying we have been sickened by eating local produce that was tainted when received in some of the last ports? That would not be the first time this happened on a cruise ship. Princess comes to mind over 20 years ago, when contaminated lettuce was the culprit. And the source happened to be the Imperial Valley in California. So we will have to do without some of the usual fare until we reach the southern part of Europe at the beginning of April. Of course, we are to continue with the compliance with the health and safety protocols……..washing hands and sanitizing frequently. Don’t have to tell us twice. Both Greg and Heo were at dinner tonight, as were the rest of us including Susie, Woody, and Barb. Heo had been ill for six days, and Greg 5 days. It was nice having them back, but they are still being quite careful with any community food such as the crudites and rolls. For dinner tonight, one of us ordered the salad made with kos, a different type of lettuce. It came with romaine, not kos. Hmmmm, wonder if that was one of the contaminants? They will never tell us. Mains were fish for both of us…one everyday salmon and one hake with mussels and clams on the side. Both were good as Nik our waiter said they would be. No bones, no smell….that’s all we ask. Now that the fresh fruit has dwindled down to slices of mango and melon, we both ordered the lemon jello. By the way, there were even fewer diners this evening, but then they may have over-done it at the Lido Seafood Lunch today. Greg and Heo said it was really nice for a change. The entertainer this evening was Naomi Tagg, the violinist, performing a brand new show. Only the guys were going tonight as they have missed this favorite activity of theirs. Tomorrow’s port is Takoradi, Ghana, a new one for us and many others. Bill & Mary Ann

Report #83 Thursday March 23, 2023 Day At Sea Enroute To Takoradi, Ghana Overcast And Muggy With Rain Showers 85 Degrees 4-5’ Swell Part #1 Of 1...........0 Pictures After breakfast this morning, we had another mandatory visit to make on our residential decks to hand off the Ghana arrival and departure cards, The Gambia visa application, and endure a temperature check. Previously, we had received a form where we had a choice of purchasing The Gambia visa for $155 each, or opt out, and stay onboard the ship that day. We are so glad we have been given the chance to opt out, because we have been to The Gambia in 2018, toured it, and did not feel the need to return. All of our friends did the same thing, and remarked about the price they were asking. Way too high they said. The Ghana visas will cost us $85 each, whether we get off of the ship or not. Guess we will be getting off there, even if it will be a drive to a craft market. The temperature check revealed that we were both 36.5 degrees C. Suppose that is acceptable. Last night’s Daily Program had been delivered, then taken away abruptly. A new one was added after dinner. Normal activities had been resumed with permission from Seattle headquarters. Comparing the programs for the last few days, we really did not notice many differences. We worked on photo captioning for a while this morning. It was warm once again with temps in the mid 80’s outside. The skies were overcast and muggy and we could see rain on the horizon. We went for our morning walk and ran into two fellows who joined the ship recently in Cape Town. We did not know them, but we had a mutual friend, Konnie H, who had sent a hello to us from Facebook we guess. Konnie – we wish you were here! Captain Frank gave his noon talk and confirmed that the seas are rather calm with a swell of 1 ½ meters, causing the ship to roll a bit. Then Ian followed as he always does, and mentioned that the port on Sunday will have most everything closed. When these itineraries are created, why would they schedule a stop at a place where all of the attractions are all closed? This will occur again when we go to Cadiz, Spain on Easter Sunday. That is a huge holiday there, and we expect nothing will be opened. But we could be wrong. The speakers are still bad on the outside deck, because we could have sworn that Ian said Ghana was closed down, but that is on Saturday. Time will tell. Watching the videos on Ian’s port talk for Takoradi, Ghana and Abidjan, Ivory Coast are not very enticing to say the least. Much of the area seems to be under construction, or the sites are far from town. Of course this promotes shore excursion sales for sure. There will be no one allowed to walk in the dock area, so shuttles will be provided to the port gate, or to a nearby hotel. But this is pretty much what we expected, especially after following the blogs from the Grand Africa voyage last fall. We shared an avocado-bacon burger and a plate of Bolognese spaghetti for lunch. During the afternoon, the outside temps seemed to drop and we knew we might be headed into some squalls. By 5pm, we went for our usual walk, and the rain began in earnest. One time around the deck, it was flooded, so we gave up and went back home. This is a good time to address a “mystery” noise that has been occurring this week. Mostly in the evening, we have heard loud noises that sound like a plane landing down the hallway. It starts slow, then builds to a loud windy noise, then subsides. It may be coming from the ceiling vents we suspect. While sitting here writing, the noise began at 9:50pm, and has continued off and on. Ellen and Aart are two cabins from us and have also reported this strange occurrence from the beginning. We are thinking it is a problem with a relief valve letting off excess air, but it only a guess. So far, there has been no concrete answer. Anyway, back to dinner where all of us were present except Heo, who is still not feeling great. Greg looked perfectly fine after his ordeal with the bug and we welcomed him back. Ginny, a friend to all, joined us since her husband is either sick or got injured according to Barb. Ellen joined us as well, as Aart is still recovering from the bug. Nice to have a full table as the conversation flows much better. Most all of us ordered the tomato/basil crostini, and remarked we were glad they skipped the hot oil they have been adding to too many dishes. We agreed we do not need the hot sauce, and if they insist on adding it to unsuspecting dishes, we need to know before ordering them. For more times than we care to count, some of the appetizers have been ruined with sauces that burn our lips off. Mains were meat tortellini with red sauce, and red snapper fish with the same red sauce. It was puttanesca, which has olives which one of us does not like. The good thing is that Nik remembered to put the sauces on the side, which worked well. The same went for the turkey entrée with gobs of gravy….all on the side. Once again, the dining room was less than half full, and despite the fact that the regular dining service was back, we think the bug is still around. We are not passing anything around the table yet, and not encouraging the use of sharing cell phone photos at the mealtime. It stands to reason that those phones are the most contaminated items we can use these days. We have a new pianist onboard by the name of Christof Van Der Berg who will perform at 9:30pm. He was listed as a piano bar entertainer who will play tunes from Gershwin, Porter, and Sinatra. Ellen and Greg were eager to attend, so we called it a night before 9:30pm. We were about the last of the guests to exit the upper dining room. Appeared they were preparing for another spraying. One more sea day crossing the Equator and we will be in Ghana, a new stop for us. Mary Ann & Bill

Hi Lois, As much as we have tried, we are not sure we have ever seen that "green" flash at sunset. We have witnessed horizon flashing sporadically, but not green....more like yellow. And the longer you look at the dipping sun, we will see a small green dot above it that floats away when the sun is gone. Our best camera has yet to catch even that. Barb says the OFH dinners are better at times. LOL Bill & Mary Ann

Report # 82 Wednesday March 22, 2023 Sea Day Enroute To Takoradi, Ghana Cloudy With Rain Showers Very Humid 85 Degrees Part #1 Of 1........0 Pictures Today is the start of three days at sea on our way to Ghana, another new port for us. At least we have a break now and can do the research on the upcoming stops. The outdoor temperature was 85 degrees with 83% humidity at 11am. The skies were heavily clouded and it sure felt like rain was ahead. And it did rain by 1pm, when the ship could not avoid passing through the isolated clouds. Processing photos took some time, as always, as did catching up on yesterday’s activities. We are close to being on time now and it feels great. Taking a long walk this morning, found few people doing the same thing. Many walkers were out and about while we were eating breakfast, which is smarter since it was slightly cooler. We are beginning to see more flying fish, but absolutely no birds. Even though we are sailing about 20 miles off the shore, the birds are not here. We have not seen any local vessels at all, like we did on the way to Angola. Ian had his lecture on both Takoradi, Ghana and Abidjan, Ivory Coast. We shall watch it after dinner or tomorrow morning when it is rerun on TV. Then the speaker, Dr. Dean Allen, spoke about Invictus the famous game that united a nation. A big event this morning was the Project Linus Blanket Showcase held in the Lido poolside from 9 to 11:30am. Select blankets were being sold to raise money for more yarn, either for this cruise or next year’s cruise. The number of blankets were way more than we could have imagined. The colors lit up the entire pool area. Some of these quilts were professionally created, in our humble opinion, by very talented people. We are certain that the 10am sessions will continue, since the participators love it so much. A film called 5000 Blankets was shown in the World Stage at 1pm, and sounded like it was relative to the knit and crochet project here. Arts and crafts continued as did most other social activities. We are sort of surprised since so many people are sick and quarantined. We would think twice about joining these activities until the virus has been eliminated. Judging by the amount of cleaning and saturating spraying taking place, we hope that to be very soon. There was another call for medical personnel to go immediately to the Lido restaurant after 1pm. This trip has had the most medical calls than we can remember in a long time. Having this virus hit, we think it is most dangerous for the elderly folks. Severe dehydration can cause all sorts of complications. One of us had a follow up with the doctor for an improving ear infection, which was cancelled and re-booked in two more days. Just as well, since we don’t want to be within a mile of the medical facility. We did room service lunch sharing a cheeseburger from the dining room menu, as well as a Caesar salad. We had requested delivery by 2pm, but it arrived at 1:30pm. Perhaps they are getting back to normal. Everything was good, and they probably did us a favor forgetting the two cookies we ordered. We’ll survive. Time for the evening walk, we witnessed deep cleaning of the lounges and chair pads on the promenade deck. Not one surface has gone unsanitized inside and outside. The same thing would happen after dinner this evening in the dining room. Every table stripped and sprayed after all the guests had left. All of the chairs will be sprayed as well. Dinner found all of us there but Greg and Heo. Still under the weather, we suspect they had not been released yet. They are extremely cautious and will not leave the room until they feel it is safe. The entrees were less than appealing. Two types of lamb were served, both not up to par with either Susie or Barb. The chicken cordon bleu was the best, as was the strange sounding Angolan fish plate. Desserts were jello and a sticky date pudding. We were done by 9pm, and noticed the tables were being stripped quickly. Time to go. The show tonight was comedian Martin Beaumont, who we saw while on the Nieuw Statendam last year. He kept the folks laughing. We are not sure how well attended this performance will be, since dinner participation was cut in half in the upper dining room. Many no-shows. Bill & Mary Ann

Plastic bottles are not allowed on the ship. Nor are they sold onboard. However, many folks have been using them (brought from home) without them being taken away at the gangway. The aluminum water bottles sold onboard will leak once opened, and the canned waters have to be used right away. The only other option is bringing a metal water bottle or buying one on the ship like we did a year ago. Bill & Mary Ann

Report # 81 Tuesday March 21, 2023 Luanda, Angola Docked Starboard Side To Dock 8am-7pm Cloudy, Hot And Humid With A Rain Shower 94 Degrees Part #1 Of 5..........53 Pictures One hour back on the clock had us up bright-eyed and bushy tailed as the saying goes. Sometimes that extra hour does help. So today we are visiting another African country, Angola. The capital is Luanda and the population is 25.8 million folks that speak a variety of native languages including Portuguese. One thing we should mention is that we did not need to buy visas here. Angola is a land of traumatic history with startling natural treasures. Its past history is all about civil war than peace, but it is also about huge oil reserves and “blood” diamonds, which stirs up bad memories. It doesn’t seem like that long ago when the horrors of the trade were first and foremost in the news. On the other hand, Angola houses the continent’s second largest waterfall by the name of Kalindula Falls, hidden within its wild borders. Nagging political issues plague the country as well as government corruption for the last 50 years. For that reason, most of the country is closed off to travelers. Wasted oil revenues and starving people are still stories in the back round. It is said that you will sink into the sands of a Luanda beach while drinking capirinhas, a Portuguese treat. Locals eat fish stew and drink “white” coffee, which is really coffee with a lot of milk. Random fact: not long ago, Angola had more land mines than children. That speaks volumes once again. Tours here were not cheap. A two hour drive took folks in small vans for a tour through the city to see the sights for $150. The changing faces of Luanda for 3 hours was $220, while a city tour with a boat ride to Mussulo Island, the local high end resort area, ran $430 which included lunch and a day on the beach or in a pool for 8 hours. Arriving to Luanda in the darkness of the morning, we were surprised that the ship had cleared by 8am, despite the fact that the Zuiderdam has gone into Code Red with a Noro virus type bug. Just what we didn’t need. Many of our friends have been affected, as well as four of our tablemates. Knock on wood, we are OK, but many are being quarantined, but on their own honor. That does not always work. Watching from the promenade deck at 9am, we saw four Angolan dancing girls with two marimba players. Guests were pouring off the gangway, stopped, and took many photos. Many left money in their bowl. One thing for sure was that it was going to be one very hot day despite clouds floating overhead. We may even get some rain. While I stayed in the room typing, Bill went to watch the dock activity. The kitchen has run out of so many items, we were curious to see if we got deliveries today. Sure enough, two containers were dropped off, and one crew member conducted the off-loading. Bill had to laugh since three local fellows did the work, while 33 others stood by watching. By then, the local dancing ladies were finished with the performance so they picked up the money bowl, and danced their way out of the dock area along with the band of two. They were happy as could be it appeared. By the time he returned, I was done. Recalling how dangerously hot it can get here, we packed two bottles of water when we left the ship by 11am. A commercial vessel was off-loading some kind of grain, and it put a terrible smell in the air. There were several complimentary shuttle buses taking people to the port gate, although we walked it before, we decided to do it again. Our main reason was that was we did not want to ride in a crowded bus at this time. We zig-zagged our way out of the port area, following directions from the port workers. That gate wasn’t too far away, but far enough. Guess this is a good time to mention the warnings about our visit here today. Only the craft market would accept US dollars. The hotels may not accept US dollars or even credit cards we were told. Then you take a risk using your cards here as there can be a lot of fraud, even in the best hotels. It was suggested not to exchange money for local currency which is kwanza ( 504.80 to 1 USD). It is often a practice of locals to sell you old paper money that is no longer accepted as currency. How would you know the difference? The same applies to buying something of value. You can pay with their money, but receive bogus bills for change. Then the usual warnings were don’t go anywhere alone, don’t wear jewelry, even our watches, or flash money in your wallet. Do not eat the food or buy bottled water, even in the better hotels. And we had not considered kidnappings, which Linda reminded us of the next day. At least this is the complete info we got 5 years ago. And from here forward, these same warnings will apply to every African port on the West Coast. One aspect of stopping here is the fact many ship tours had been sold. At least the guests are guaranteed safety as well as safe food and drink with a ride in air-conditioned buses and vans we assume. Directly across from the gate, we crossed the busy road and came across the craft market which had been set up for today only. It was located in the center of a spacious square, but was a quarter of the size that was here 5 years ago. Many tents of souvenirs were set up, but it was mostly clothing and cloth being sold. No wood carvings like we bought last time, there were a few vendors with small items such as key rings and tiny animals. We did buy one piece of a batik cotton, useful for chair pads. It was 6 yards of wide heavy cotton for a mere $10 USD. A few artists displayed their colorful oil paintings which were pretty, but also expensive. Our travel hosts had just purchased some postcards where they were handed a small Angolan flag. Luisa gave it to us for a souvenir. Now we are owners of a red and black flag with a half a gear, a star and a knife on it. Continuing on, we hiked to the huge lagoon that the downtown area faces. It is a long stretch of walkways and bike lanes lined with palm trees and lot of lawn areas. The best thing is that there are several varieties of shade trees most useful in this part of the world. It actually rained a bit and it would have felt wonderful if it continued. It stopped and never came back. This esplanade had much more of a police presence 5 years ago, compared to today. Of course, looking around, there were only six passengers from the ship that we saw walking like us. Too frightened or too hot – take your pick. Despite this, we were not hassled. There was one exception – a young boy dogged us from the craft market and stayed on our heels for a ways. We stopped, let him pass, then he disappeared. There were dozens of school kids here, all with uniforms from private schools. They were from seven to seventeen and were more than likely on a lunch break. They loved it when they said “hi” to us and we waved back, especially the cute little girls who giggled as little girls will do. Some older local guys were net fishing in the lagoon using make-shift mattress-like floating beds catching the small fish that the terns and egrets were eating. We saw only a few of these birds today , so we highly suspect that this lagoon may be polluted as it had a funky smell and also garbage like plastic bottles floating on the top. We slowly made it to the old fort and the Shopping Mall towards the end of the lagoon. This was as far as one of us would go, since we were burning up. No matter how much water we had, it still was not enough as we stated earlier. We went from palm tree to palm tree for the shade and a breeze. A cop on a motorbike followed us halfway back to the next set of officers. Can’t say we minded. We did notice at the very end of the lagoon, a homeless camp was hidden behind some concrete walls. We stayed well clear of that area. Finally back at the craft market and clocktower, we noticed that few guests were there buying things. Perhaps they were still on tours or felt it too hot to come out here. We decided to tough it out and walk back to the ship even though the bus was there. We were back to the gangway at 1:30pm, when the bus arrived at the same time. The air-conditioning was lifesaving at this point. We ordered a room service lunch, which arrived 2 hours later. No doubt, the room service kitchen was slammed. Relaxing on the veranda with a breeze and several ice cold sodas, we waited for the all aboard time at 4:30pm and subsequent sail away by 5pm. It was not to be. Greg had called to give his regrets for dinner as he and Heo are still not well. They hope to be cleared to leave their room by tomorrow. He had also heard from 15 more of their friends that had caught the bug. This one is bad. In the meantime, he told us about a last minute debark of an ill passenger who needed to be hospitalized. He also added that their room service meals had been arriving 3 hours late with no tray pick-up. Oh boy….this is worse than we think. The ship left the port 2 ½ hours late with the medical debark and other ship traffic blocking our way. The sun had set, but we did get a few shots of downtown in the after color. It sure looked far nicer in the dark all lit up. Dinner had six of us there. Barb had invited Cecile, and Woody and Susie showed up. Our mains were one lasagna, which was shared, and one snapper which was very good. Cooked properly, the fish dishes have been tasty. Calves’ liver was on the menu, which is Barb’s and Susie’s favorite. Except Barb’s was too rare and they had to bring her another one. It was sliced so thin, they had only heated it up. Glad she likes it…… It had been a long day for us,, so we were content to end dinner by 9pm. Barb had taken the shuttle with Ellen, saw what was there, and stayed on the bus for the ride back. Too warm for them, they were better off on the ship staying cool. There was a movie, Death on the Nile in the World Stage, but who could stay awake for 2 more hours and seven minutes? Not us….. Bill & Mary Ann

Report # 80 Monday March 20, 2023 Sea Day Enroute To Luanda, Angola Another Hot And Humid Day 92 Degrees Sea State Slight Part #1 Of 1.........10 Pictures Our fears are confirmed – a gastrointestinal bug is onboard the ship, like Noro virus, and it is spreading like wildfire. We spent the day doing our usual things, beginning with breakfast. Danu and Andri have to serve us everything now, including doing the peppermill. We are not allowed to have anything communal on the table. It is easy when it is just the two of us, but dinner is a different story. So far, masks are only recommended, not mandated. There are some folks who still wear them while inside the ship. Going outside, we noticed a definite change in the temperature. On our veranda, the morning reading was 78 degrees, but by 4pm, it had climbed to 92 degrees. Now that we are heading due north, we get the sun in the afternoon, and that is why our deck was so hot. The good thing is that we will get some nice sunsets now. The flying fish have returned indicating that the water has warmed up as well. Ian and Nyron had a Q&A about the upcoming African ports. Although we did not attend the show lounge, we did pick up his lecture on TV later in the evening. Some of the questions seemed to skip ahead way beyond our next port. It was hard to keep track of where they were talking about. Also, if you ask questions too far in advance, they will not have the answers. That refers to shuttles mostly. Some of the ports are still in negotiations regarding complimentary shuttles. We were more interested in the port of Luanda, Angola, just to fill in the blanks since we were here last in 2018. Not many questions were asked for that port. Back five years ago, we had been forewarned about the safety in this area of Africa, and wondered if it was the same now. Guess we shall find out. Our room service lunch was 20 minutes late today, most unusual since they have been really good about being on time. Thinking I had given the incorrect room number, the food finally arrived after a call to the dispatcher in room service. We bet this has something to do with the recent breakout, and our guess was correct as we found out later. There were three of us at dinner this evening. Greg had called and left a message that both he and Heo were down for the count. The bug had found them, and they were not doing well. They expect to be quarantined for 2 or 3 days. Susie and Woody were no-shows, probably also not feeling well. This virus must be getting worse, because the dining room seemed half empty. Anyway, we had small appetizers, then mains of one very large veal chop (on the Club Orange menu) and one halibut plate. Barb also had the fish. Bill’s was slightly underdone, so I was more than happy to share my delicious tender chop. There was plenty for both of us. We were done by 8:30pm and asleep by 10pm. Showtime featured electric violinist Naomi Tagg from South Africa. We have attended her show in the past and found her to be energetic and most talented. Ready for tomorrow’s port of Luanda, Angola, a very controversial place in Africa. Bill & Mary Ann

Report #79 Sunday March 19, 2023 Day At Sea Enroute To Luanda, Angola Hot And Humid 80 Degrees Slight Seas Part #1 Of 1..........15 Pictures It was wonderful to have a day at sea. Even being late to breakfast did not matter, since we were the first ones there. To be fair, there was another Sunday Brunch at 11am, and many guests will attend that instead. Barb, Susie, and Woody were the only ones to sign up at our table last night, as Greg and Heo seem to be tiring of the same offerings. As it turned out, Susie and Woody were no-shows, and Barb was mad. She recovered quickly when she found some other friends who invited her to join their table. We worked on photos, while one of us was keeping up with daily reports. Obviously, this will be repeated from here on out. It keeps us busy with something we love to do, much the same as knitting and crocheting occupies many ladies time (some men also). We took a couple of walks to get some exercise, and dined in room, keeping it light. We have noticed that the further north we go, the warmer the temperature has gotten. We are even seeing flying fish again, so that means the waters are warming up as well. Ian and Nyron had questions and answers on the upcoming ports, while the guest speaker spoke on rebranding Africa. Team trivia is going strong at 1pm on sea days. On the Amsterdam, we often took the outside chairs to listen to the trivia game being played. It was fun trying to come up with some answers. We also enjoyed the dance time in the Ocean Bar before early dinner seating. It was a much more social setting where we ran into more folks we knew. We miss that here. Anyway, dinner was different. Our entire table had been invited to a special Pinnacle Grill meal with Martha and Bob to celebrate Bob’s first circumnavigation of the world. Previous years, Martha often did these trips alone or with her daughter Hannah. Bob would join a segment or two quite often. Now that he is retired, he can do the full voyage, and seems to be enjoying every minute of it. However, that was not so tonight, as he was under the weather, and Martha said he may not make it to dinner. As it turned out, neither of them were present. Wish they would have told us, we all could have taken a raincheck. Greg and Heo were missing….they had come down with a mystery illness suddenly and cancelled. So there were six of us…..which included Cecile, a friend of Barb’s that we all knew. Now we were concerned about the source of this illness. Our guess was a gastrointestinal outbreak, God-forbid, which has taken down many people we know. Although nothing was mentioned, the method of serving dinner tonight was changed to serving each of us – nothing was commonly shared such as the bread or salt and pepper shakers. We knew this had happened shipwide, and it spoke volumes to us. This was definitely a virus that has infiltrated the ship’s population. We expected a letter delivered to our rooms tonight explaining what happened and what we can do about it. Anyway, we had one wedge salad, but the dressing was not the same. No one mentioned it though. One of us had the shrimp cocktail, followed by a tenderloin steak, half-baked potato, and onion rings. The other main was halibut, cooked perfectly and tasty. Wines flowed for half of our group. Desserts were five crème brulees and one slice of Key lime pie. Thanks to Bob and Martha for such a nice evening, it was too bad they could not have been here. Looking forward to another day at sea. And by the way, we did indeed have a health advisory letter waiting for us when we returned to our room. It was strongly suggested that this was a type of Norovirus, and the crew was into super-sanitizing mode. Of course, we need to do our part with frequent handwashing and personal hygiene used wisely. Now we know our friends will be quarantined for a few days. Bill & Mary Ann

Report #78 Saturday March 18, 2023 Walvis Bay, Namibia Docked Starboard Side 9am-8pm Overcast Clearing To Sun In The Afternoon 72 Degrees Part #1 Of 3…….60 Pictures Today’s port of call was Walvis Bay and our second and final stop in Namibia. Last evening, we all got more forms to fill out for immigrations. This afternoon between 3 and 6:30pm, we need to take our passports to the Hudson Room where officials will take the forms and stamp our passports once again. Another sticker would be added which meant that we were not able to go off of the ship after clearing the customs. The Zuiderdam was docked by 9am and along the way into the bay, we saw many more seals popping out of the water. They are such curious creatures, they were checking out the ship. Some of the tours offered today included a lagoon cruise and drive for $300 for 7 ½ hours. A drive through the Namib desert in a 4 x 4 vehicle was $320, while a dolphin and seal safari was $140. A ride to Sandwich Harbor was $230, and the living Namib desert was $190. A popular tour was a ride to Swakopmund was $180, and real Namibia was $180. The most expensive excursion was a flight over Sussusvlei, a 2 hour 10 minute ride that covered 400 miles. That tour ran $2000 per person. Breakfast was back in the upper dining room where our group shared stories of their exploits. It has been the most fun beginning our days there. Looking out the windows, the fog appeared heavier than yesterday in Luderitz. What a difference from being in Cape Town just a few days ago, where it was so nice and warm. Once again, we stuck around until noon, then left the ship. Leaving the gangway, we saw the ground was covered with seagull poop and you could not avoid stepping on it. Totally gross. The gulls must roost here by the hundreds at night after a day of fishing. You can imagine the odor. Oh well, we figured the folks will have walked it off by the time we leave and get back later. Even though it was not written in the Daily Program, we knew there was a shuttle to take the folks to downtown or the newer shopping mall. A line of mostly crew members were already waiting, so we decided to walk out the nearby gate a short distance away from the ship. The road was covered with coal dust and sand, but perhaps it will take off some of the bird doo. Directly out the gate, the row of street vendors lined the fencing for a half mile. These are not local people, but immigrants from southern Angola. They are from the Himba tribe we have read. We were slightly shocked to see at least four ochre-covered braided hair ladies selling trinkets about half nude from the waist up. On all of our visits here, we have never seen this done. In a way it is sad, as the youngest of this group looked at the tourists with dead eyes. Obviously she was being used as a display to sell souvenirs. As undressed as they were, we are certain they will attract most all of the men on the ship and sell a lot of trinkets. The rest of the vendors, especially the men, were very pushy and we said we would look more on our way back. From here, we went down a street towards the water’s edge passing by a nice hotel. Near this hotel is a restaurant built over the water by the name of The Raft. We would come back here later. This body of water was named Pelican Bay, about a half mile from the port. Some beautiful homes, condos, and small hotels line this waterfront. But it always looks like no one is home. Behind fences and locked gates, the locals are not out and about like in regular cities. We did see a few kids riding bikes or playing soccer in a stadium. Other than that, the streets remained empty. Strange for a Saturday. By the way, there is the presence of police patrol in and around this entire area. The best part of this hike is being able to see the flamingoes up close and personal. We got lucky and there were several flocks of the greater African flamingoes that have a wing span of over 5 feet and weigh about 8 pounds. They are tall and elegant birds with pale pink plumage and black and red-orange wings. Their necks are immensely long. The pink coloration is from the diet they have such as shrimps, insects, and microscopic plant. The color varies from bird to bird. They are highly sociable but do fight among themselves. Even the young ones quibble from what we witnessed. They lay one egg, with both parents caring for the chick. They are migratory, so we were thrilled to see so many of them today. We also saw a few flocks flying in a V formation high overhead. Covering the entire bay, we did not see any pelicans which the bay was named after. Several nice benches were available where we could take our time watching the birds doing their thing. They use their feet and legs to stir up the mud in a scissor-like motion. It’s almost like seeing them dance. Then they will dip their entire head underwater, scooping up a beak full of seawater which is strained through the beak, saving the good stuff. After our long stroll, there was a reward at the end of the bay. A unique restaurant we passed on the way was our destination. The Raft serves fish, but also great pizzas as we recalled. The last two times we were here, we came to this restaurant built on stilts over the water. Today we ordered a Hawaiian pizza called “Limbo Dancer” along with one Windhoek beer and a Hansa brew. While enjoying our meal seated among the locals, we watched as the nearby hotel guests were playing a game of basketball, but from kayaks with oars. Now that’s different. It was most entertaining as they were having a blast trying to sink the ball into the nets. Time to leave after relaxing for an hour, we made our way back to the pier gate and the vendors who were even more aggressive this time. Most of these items we already have at home such as the wooden animal carvings or tribal masks. Saying we were only looking did not resonate with any of them. Naturally, we ended up with the half covered ladies, who held up nice beaded bracelets that happened to match what we were wearing at the moment. Their tactics were to have you try one on for sizing. Once the bracelet was fastened, they cover my wrist so I could not take it off easily. The other four gals approached and said we had to buy one from each of them at $25 each. No way. Not even $25 for two. A few years ago, they were sold for $5 each, and that is where we agreed to buy two of them. Now the most difficult thing was concentrating on their faces and not below their necks. We couldn’t get back through the gates fast enough. We were back onboard by 3:45pm, and had some time to work online, while one of us relaxed outside on the veranda with a sweatshirt and blanket once again. Without direct sun, it was downright cool. We suspect the fog would make its way onshore once again. The Immigrations check and donation show were both delayed. The children from the Bernhard Nordkamp Center had come onboard earlier to enjoy lunch and swimming in the aft pool. Then they had an ice cream party for them. Their show began late, and interrupted the immigration check. Ian recommended that the folks attend the show and go to the drill afterwards. In addition, he suggested that the folks with early dining could attend the Lido instead. There was a Biergarten Festival in the Lido poolside between 5:30pm and 9pm loaded with lots of German style food. Live music was supplied by The Dance Band too. The kids took to the World Stage and put on a moving performance with their native dance and music. There was a range of ages, but the youngest ones were the cutest of course. The final on the amount of donations added up to $9650 including 41 bags of school supplies. They were most thankful for the donation. We decided to wait until 6:15pm to see the officials, who were set up in the Hudson Room this time. The line zig-zagged in the room, but moved quickly with several agents working. Job done. Dinnertime found all present, sharing storied from the last two days. We watched a beautiful sunset while the ship left in the dark by 8pm. Three of our tablemates had taken taxis to Swakopmund for a German lunch, while the other two stayed onboard, still not feeling 100%. Sadly, we think another bug is being passed around such as Noro. More reason to wash or hands more often. We see many more crew members washing down stairwells, elevators, and doors. For dinner we both had African prime rib, whatever that meant. It was quite good. A few ordered the flatiron steak, but it came smothered in gravy. Barb hates that, and now so does Greg. From here on, we all asked for the gravies to be on the side. A dessert of crème brulee saved the meal for Barb. She like it so much, she ordered two of them. There was no show this evening due to all of the special events. The clocks went back one hour as well. A few days at sea is what we need now. Bill & Mary Ann

Report#77 Friday March 17, 2023 Saint Patricks Day Luderitz, Namibia At Anchor 7am-5pm Overcast With Fog Clearing With Afternoon Sun 68 Degrees Part #1 Of 3........66 Pictures Happy St. Patrick’s Day to all! Namibia is the next African country we shall visit. The capital is Windhoek and the population is 2.4 million folks, most of whom speak English. There are tribal dialects as well as German, from the descendants that arrived here from Germany decades ago. Described as having sheer natural beauty, this country is a sharp contrast from South Africa. It consists mostly of deserts that were created from the Kalahari sands to the east with massive sand dunes….the largest in the world. In the interior there is a spine of mountains with rivers and wetlands. Etosha National Park has waterholes that attract thousands of animals including the black rhinos and lions. The lions are said to number between 450 and 500 and counting. It is also said that Namibia can be the best place on earth for animal life viewing. Being that it is mostly desert, they may have less cover to hide, making viewing easier. Sossusvlei has the red sand dunes where visitors can climb them and ride them down. Fish River Canyon is comparable to the Grand Canyon also. Unfortunately, unless you had taken an overland excursion from Cape Town, ending in either Luderitz or Walvis Bay, these areas are not easily accessible from where we dock. This morning we were displaced from our breakfast area on deck three and re-located downstairs. This was due to the Namibian Immigrations Officials onboard for a face-to-passport inspection. Held in the upper dining room, it was due to commence at 7am. Ian called groups by the deck which worked smoothly, although we seem to remember it began later than expected. We had finished our breakfast, served by favorite waiters Danu and Andri, when we were called to appear. The officials were most pleasant as they stamped our books. Ian announced the final call for guests to appear by 9:45am, and we are certain that was when Barb would attend. She loves to sleep in late. We stayed onboard until the fog cleared, which was by noontime perhaps. We still have much catching up to do, and since we had no tours here (done some of them already), we were in no hurry to go off. Speaking of tours, those offered today included a ride to the deserted mine town for $140 for 2 ½ hours or the highlights on food of the area for $70 for the same amount of time. Martha and Bob were taking the boat ride to Halifax Island to see seals and pelicans and eat oysters for $160 for 3 ½ hours. Lastly, there was a drive to view the wild horses for $220 for 4 hours. By 11:30am, we boarded the tender boat for the 20 -minute ride to shore. Even though we have been here a few times in the past, we had a difficult time remembering the town. Honestly, there isn’t a lot here to see in this remote part of the world. The locals have taken to calling their little community a mini Deutschland for its German architecture and food. Many pubs and restaurants serve German fare such as sauerkraut and sausages, often comfort food for one of us while growing up. Their beer is named Windhoek after the capital….also very good. Just as we passed the few souvenir stands near the drop off, we crossed paths with Captain Frank’s wife, Alexandra, who we had met on the Tales of the South Pacific a few months ago. She is a lovely German lady, and most friendly. She will be onboard for a while, then return when the ship reaches Amsterdam in April. Perhaps there will be another special cocktail party, and we can visit with her before she departs. She recommended what to see here and what to avoid. We seem to recall the isolated feeling leaving the center of town, because the streets become void of people if you are not paying attention. After wandering around the main streets taking photos here and there, we ended up at a church built high on a hillside. It was very warm by now since the sun had come out, so only one of us completed the walk up. It was a Lutheran Church, which makes sense, and was the nicest building there. The street heading up to this point was filled with the most colorful colonial-style buildings, all painted in shades of pastels. They looked nice, but the closer you looked, you could see the ravages of time that had eroded most of the wood-framed windows and doors. Despite the condition, they appeared to be occupied with shops on the main level, and housing above. While waiting in the shade against a rock wall, a car approached with a taxi driver, wanting to take me somewhere or anywhere, and was not taking no thanks as an answer. Few guests were in this area, and isolating yourself like this was not a great idea. Who knew? Probably harmless, I was happy to see my better half on his way back, and the taxi driver took off. Heading back to the central fountain, we passed by more pubs and one nice-looking restaurant where the locals had filled all the tables. It looked better since the owner had the good sense to plant greenery in pots and surround the outside with them. Like an oasis in the desert, the rest of the town was about stark naked devoid of any trees or bushes. The only trees we saw were mainly palm trees. Sitting at the fountain, we watched as the locals went shopping for their food and supplies. Some kids were running around because school must have let out for lunchtime. Or their classes end in the late morning. On the way back, we stuck to the main streets, taking photos of the many fruit and veggie stands along the way. Some of the locals buy clothing and shoes (mostly flip flops) from street vendors with tarps on the ground. This is typical in many countries. Back at the pier, we boarded the tender boat and were back to our room at 2:30pm. All aboard was 4:30pm today. Believe it or not, it was actually cold on our veranda, due to the fact we were on the shady side and a cool breeze was blowing. Without a sweatshirt and blanket, we could not sit outside. We did spot hundreds of seals as the Zuiderdam left the area headed out to sea. Too quick to get many photos, we were able to capture a few of these curious creatures. Dinner was “dressy” this evening, we assume due to the fact it was St. Patrick’s Day. The only sign of this celebration in the dining room were the green napkins and a special cute menu with shamrocks, pots of gold, and leprechauns by each item. The two of us and Barb were the only ones there. Many tables around us were empty because there was a 9pm party in the Lido poolside where beer (for sale) and live music was added by The Dance Band. Prior to this event, a pub crawl for $25 was held at 8pm inside the ship. So that explained the spotty dining room. We did not mind at all. Barb loves appetizers more than her main meal, so tonight she ordered deviled eggs, surprising her they were so hot and spicy, and a shrimp and smoked trout plate. Bill also had that and said it was the best fish ever. Our waiter had suggested he add the fish and shrimp to his Caesar salad, which he did. Perfect idea. For a change of pace, he tried the Irish lamb stew made with Guinness beer and loved it. One of us was happy as a clam with meatballs and spaghetti, not Irish, but one of my favorites. For dessert, Barb had the Baily’s Irish crème cheesecake, and we ordered jello….yes plain old-fashioned jello. It is the lightest dessert here. Bill & Mary Ann

Report #76 Thursday March 16, 2023 Sea Day Enroute To Luderitz, Namibia Foggy And Cool 63 Degrees Part #1 Of 1........0 Pictures What a difference a day makes…..the temperature must have dropped 20 degrees since leaving Cape Town late last night. Despite being sunny early in the morning, fog filled the skies, and we listened to the foghorn blow about every 5 minutes. The thermometer read 63 degrees on our veranda….cool for sure. Breakfast was wonderful, seeing all of our fellow guests and friends, but more so, being welcomed back by waiters Andri and Danu. Martha and Bob filled in the details about the ship missing the port of East London, netting everyone a whopping $20.14 each in refunded port and tax charges. That will be added to the cashable column. By the way, another segment began yesterday, ending the 33- day passage from Sydney to Cape Town. Two stickers with the itinerary were given to add to our Journeys booklet. This time, we were not required to attend any muster drill. We spent the day working on photos and reports while the foghorn blew away. We find it a very eerie sound, and when you realize what it is being used for, that makes it scary as well. Other activities onboard today included the port talk on Luanda, Angola and a 1pm talk on the Cape by Dr. Dean Allen, the new speaker that joined us. At 1pm, the much- advertised Silent Charity Auction took place in the Ocean Bar and ended at 3:15pm. It had been extended to give everyone a chance to donate. Passengers had been asked to donate their watercolor paintings, items from the arts and crafts classes, as well as any items deemed suitable for auction. We saw many items that were from the recent Africa Grand Voyage, as these guests must have come to the Zuiderdam from the other ship back in January. The proceeds from this auction will benefit children of Namibia for their extra education from grades 1 through 7, learning English, reading, writing and math. These are afternoon classes that happen after their usual morning school sessions. This evening we were invited to a birthday dinner in the Canaletto Restaurant at 7:30pm for Woody. Our entire table was present, as well as Woody’s exercise therapist. The meal is Italian based with starters that are meant to share. That’s what we always do, but just between the two of us. Bill had the lamb chops and I ordered the steak….both very good. The evening wrapped up with a small birthday cake and the special song. It was a wrap by 10pm. The entertainment in the World Stage was the Shades of Africa singing the Bonfires of Bohemia. Greg and Heo may have caught the last 15 minutes of the show, as they like to attend all of the performances. Unless it is a dark night, which happens every now and then. Got to rest up for tomorrow’s port of Luderitz, Namibia. Bill & Mary Ann

Report #75 Wednesday March 15, 2023 Day #6 At Sabi Sands Bush Camp And Travel To Cape Town In The Afternoon Sunny And Warm 82 Degrees Part #1 Of 5.......60 Pictures For some reason, both of us were awake at 3:30am, waiting for the alarm to go off at 4am. We had decided to go on the final game drive this morning as long as it was not raining. We were already 99% packed, so we had the time. There was no rain, so the drive was on. We were off and running by 5:45am. It was going to be a nice day. The first wildlife we saw was a leopard sitting on a branch of a tree. We took many photos of course, then it zeroed in on something in the distance, as cats do. The leopard slithered down the trunk and took off on a run. We followed, as did a Landrover from Sabi Sabi. Unfortunately, by getting too close to the leopard’s attack run, we all had effectively cut the animal off. He hunkered down into the grass, where he stayed without moving. By doing this, he may have some success with a kill if the remainder of the impala herd followed the others. Not that we wanted to see a leopard kill, we felt it would have occurred this morning. While tracking this same cat, a different vehicle got hung up while attempting to go down a steep creek bed. We were right there at the same time and were able to help with the loan of a long rope of sorts. Another vehicle pulled the Landrover from the ledge. Glad it wasn’t us since we were due to leave this morning. We spotted more zebras, impala, a green pigeon, and a bull elephant. Tinyiko had pinned the elephant between the trees and the vehicle, so when the elephant decided to bolt, one of his tusks actually scraped Bill’s arm. He had the camera up taking pictures and had no idea this elephant was so close. Too close for comfort he said. We also saw a hidden rhino complete with his oxpeckers, two kudu bucks, and a family of mongoose on the road. Tinyiko said they have been brought into the area to kill black mamba snakes, one of the deadliest in South Africa. He claimed they have been doing their job well. It was time for the coffee stop, and we assumed that Tinyiko knew we were expecting another driver to pick us up. No, he had not been told, so he asked is anybody from here going back to the camp? Yes, it was us. The driver showed up in a smaller vehicle, we said our goodbyes, and then left the group. Boy, we are going to miss these drives. Breakfast was ready in the dining room without anyone there but us and the staff. Yanna came and gave us a time for our transfer to the airport, which was at 10:50am. That worked perfect for us. Gathering the last of our stuff, we went to the loading area where our driver picked us up in a different vehicle. He remembered us from 5 years ago. He was fun as we drove the deep-rutted road for a half hour drive to Skukuza Airport, even smaller than Mpumalanga International in Nelspruit. Groups from other camps were there as well for the same flight to Cape Town……most of them quite young. Going to the one small reception desk was simple as we had only one bag to check. Passing through the xray, my handbag was searched closely. The inspector checked both eye glass cases, and every baggie. She looked closely at the Kindle too. Of course, nothing was out of the ordinary, and we were released to go, never asking why she did that. After a short wait, we boarded the small aircraft which took off right on time at 11:40am. The seats were tight with little leg room, but just for a short duration. Once again we were served beverages followed by a beef or chicken with pasta snack with crackers. Coffee, tea, water, or sodas were offered as well as wine. It was a quick uneventful flight and we landed early at 2:04pm. We had a great view of Tabletop Mountain and all of Cape Town before landing smoothly at the airport. Disembarking the plane on the tarmac, we boarded a bus that drove us a short distance to the domestic terminal for Airlink. It took at least 20 minutes before the turntable began to move. Glad we only had one bag to pick up. Going out the doors, we entered the receiving hall and a young well-dressed fellow had our names on his computer. He led us on a long walk to the parking garage, where our driver, also well-dressed in a suit, was waiting to take us to the pier. In the extremely nice SUV limo, the ride took a little more than a half hour passing by shanty towns along the freeway. Large sections revealed housing made with corrugated metal for the walls and the roof. Oddly enough, every one of these “houses” had satellite dishes. We wondered if there was some form of bathroom facilities there, but did not ask the driver, who may have been sensitive with such questions. Obviously, they had water and electricity. As we neared Cape Town proper, the buildings rose into high rises and a real downtown. We arrived at the pier by 3:15pm a good time considering it was commuting time on the roads. It felt good to be back, but sad in a way as we both looked at our watches and realized those folks we left back at the camp were readying to begin the afternoon game drive. But all good things must come to an end, and this was one of them. We dropped our bags in our room and checked our mail on the bed…all nicely laid out by our room steward. We took note that everyone was required to go through the departure clearance between 4pm and 8:30pm. As exhausted as we were, there was still time to take the free shuttle bus to the V & A Waterfront Mall, a 15-minute ride from the ship. We noticed many different hop on and hop off buses, and decided that was a great way to explore this city and the surrounding areas in the future, if we ever make our way back here. Viewed as one of Cape Town’s biggest tourist attractions, the Waterfront comprises of the busy commercial harbor with entertainment venues, pubs, restaurants, shops, craft markets, and movie theaters. In the mall, we located a restaurant where we had great pizza. However, it has changed hands and is called something different. No pizza. It sure was tempting to stop and have a beer break, but it was near 5pm, and we would never eat dinner if we stopped. Crossing over the swing bridge by the Clocktower, we continued past the grain silos, then followed the signs to the ship. We had walked back to the ship probably faster than the shuttle that brought us here. Having taken our passports with us, we figured that after 5pm, most folks would have done the mandated departure clearance. We were wrong. Entering the terminal, we found that the screening area had no one there. This was good as we went right through the procedure quickly, but discovered once we went outside the building, a line to board the ship had grown immensely. It was one way traffic with passengers filing off of the gangway….. some extremely slowly. We waited at least a half hour in the blowing wind before we were let back onboard. By the time it began to move, the line was a mile long behind us. Time for dinner, only Barb was there…the others were either away still off of the ship or dining elsewhere. It was nice to share our exploits with our friend. Since the ship was not leaving until late, many folks were out to dinner onshore. Half of the dining room was empty. Better for us, we had great service. Ellen and Aart saw their chance to join us, and we were happy to have them. At 9:30pm, the South African Youth Choir gave a performance in the World Stage. Together since 2005, this group has traveled worldwide performing their specialized music. It was a moving show, not to disappoint any of us. It had been an incredibly long day, and one of us almost fell asleep putting the key in the door to our room. Good thing we had stashed everything before dinner and had the laundry ready to go for the next morning. We slept like logs…if there is such a thing? By the way, the ship did not leave the port until well after 11:30pm, since another vessel was blocking our way. Bill & Mary Ann

Report # 74 Tuesday March 14, 2023 Day #5 At Sabi Sands Bush Camp Partly Sunny With Afternoon Rain Showers 85 Degrees Part #1 Of 3........67 Pictures Tinyiko came and got us this morning because we were one minute late for the game drive. If everyone is early, then he can leave earlier. We were trying to send some reports and pictures from 4am, when we assume most folks are not online. Sometimes it works, and other times, not. We had mostly sun with a fresh breeze early this morning…more like we remembered it in past years. Today we headed out for an hour drive towards the park boundaries and Shaw’s Gate in search of a different pride of lions. On the way, we did see a few impala, wildebeests, zebras, and a giraffe. Sitting on a bare limb, we spotted a couple of vultures. Five rhinos stood firm while many birds flew overhead. Eventually, we were driven to a high bluff with views of the Sabi River and bridge far below. It was the perfect spot to stop for our morning coffee. The dried fruit and almond biscotti cookies are the best, and becoming as addictive as the Amarula in the coffee. Back on the road, we drove past a bull elephant and a group of road workers driving tractors. A warthog and her four babies crossed in front of us, their little tails flying in the air as they scooted off of the road. It was then that Tinyiko got a call to go see the lions. There were 4 males, or two sets of brothers, and one female, a sister to two of the males. They were all sleeping in a pile alongside the road in the grass. They could care less about us being there. Our guide said these males were young at three years old. In time, they will have to split up and find different lions to mate with. On the way back to the camp, we passed by a male baboon and one elephant. We were back at the lodge by 9am and ready for breakfast. At least eight guests had gone home today, so we were able to finally get some fresh-squeezed orange juice for a change. The end table was set for beverages, but these folks made themselves mimosas every morning and drained the juice. With our omeletes today, we asked for some potatoes, like hash browns or diced roasted potatoes. Our server said that was fine, and shortly, she arrived with a full plate of French fries. Not expecting that, we enjoyed every bite since they were hot and crispy. About then, we were treated to a sighting of the mama wart hog and those 4 babies. We caught up with photos, then ran in between showers to the little shop on the grounds. We discovered that the best internet is right inside this small building. The staff invited us to use their counter, which we did. Had we known, we could have tried this sooner. The showers continued off and on most of the afternoon. It was also a great time to start the packing, since we will be leaving after breakfast tomorrow. No sense waiting until the last minute. Lunch was at 2:30pm, and we were served the snack tray along with a large green salad with diced chicken to share. We also had taquitos with sweet and sour sauce, and assorted fresh fruit. By 4pm we were ready for game drive # 9. A new young Dutch couple joined our vehicle , but our buddy Robin was switched to another driver. He was not happy, but said nothing. Now that we had some new people, we went to see the rhinos first, followed by the Cape buffalo, one giraffe, and many impala. Reports were that the lions were on the move now. Maybe because of the on and off rain, they were more active. We did see the lions, but by now the light was very poor. We all saw a nice rainbow, as well as a nice sunset. Although it supposedly is not allowed on game drives, everyone seemed to have a cell phone. Even though they all had cameras, they still used the phones to video. What these folks don’t realize is when they put their arms up to film, they are blocking the view for others. In this case, eight arms went up. The best thing that happened was sundown as it was too dark to film. By the time we stopped for sundowners, it was totally dark. One of us did not leave the vehicle, because you cannot see the elephant dung on the road. Our luck, we would step in it, and have to fly to Cape Town the next day smelling that. On the way back, a pick-up truck full of well-armed rangers were looking for poachers. They are told to shoot first, ask questions later. Tinyiko said if there was an incident involving poachers, they may not hear about it for days. On the way back, Tinyiko spotted a small chameleon in the tree, and plucked it off from the branch for us to see. Curious little creatures, they seem harmless except to bugs. We also saw the nightjar again and the owl who seem to hang out together in this area. Back at our cottage, we noticed that the claw-footed deep bathtub was full of hot, hot water with bubbles from the bath salts. It was cast iron, so we knew the temperature would last for quite a while. The staff has done this every evening since we came here. Tonight, one of us made the decision to use it, and it was heavenly. Should have used it from day one, duh. Dinner was served at 8pm. Before the meal began, the current owner, Dave, came to each table introducing himself and chatted with the guests. He seemed to remember us, but it has been 5 years since we were here last. He filled us in with what happened after Covid shut down the country in 2020. It wasn’t pretty and lasted too long he said. Although the camp was closed to foreigners, it was still operational for those who lived in South Africa. Having a drink, we polished off their bottle of Knob Creek, then had veggie soup and different salads. Bill’s was smoked salmon, while mine was avocado. The main dish was roasted pork slices with rice, mixed veggies, and the tastiest gravy on the side. A shot glass of amarula followed with a light cheesecake for dessert. No coffee for us, we were in bed by 10:30pm. Bill & Mary Ann

Report #73 Monday March 13, 2023 Day #4 At Sabi Sands Bush Camp Partly Sunny With Some Rain Showers 80 Degrees Part #1 Of 4.........60 Pictures Another day, and another game drive….number 6 to be exact. We were out early by 5:30am, noticing that it was partly cloudy, but not raining. Our guide had noticed that two leopards had been spotted very close to the camp, more than likely the two that have stuck around for the last week. A mother and son…..and it was the feisty son that took off with a chair pillow from our balcony the night before we had arrived. He spent the night sleeping there since the cottage was empty. And we had been warned to watch out for him. We drove incredibly close to the cats, one of which was on the tree stump, and the son hidden in the grass. Spending considerable time there, the cats took off, and we followed. Tinyiko knew their route, so he drove to the coffee break area where the chairs were set up. He found them hiding in a dense tree across the creek. Never expecting it, Tinyiko proceeded to drive straight down the embankment to cross the mostly dry creek. We could see the leopards clearly, but they were having none of it, and continued onward. Now, how are we going to get out of this creek bed? Recent rains had softened the banks, and they were giving way to our attempts to climb out. The third attempt was the charm, as we made it up the side crashing between thorny trees along the way. What an adventure…. We picked up the leopard’s path and followed them until more vehicles came along. Giving them a turn at this sighting, we continued on. We were off and running to the open savannah to see zebra, wildebeests, and even more impala. We inquired about the presence of gazelle and were told they are not here, but further north in the park. This was the perfect stop for coffee with biscuits and biscotti. And Amarula in the coffee. On the ride back, we saw a troop of baboons, actually two separate groups. The large males are quite intimidating but the small ones are cute as could be as they played on the trees branches like little kids. Two warthogs greeted us before we entered the portal of the camp. They are so tame, we feel that the staff has names for them. Just in time for breakfast, we enjoyed the usual starters and added one omelet and one egg benedict. While eating our food, we tried downloading data on the Kindle, but the connection was spotty, shutting down every 5 minutes. We skipped the bush walk, since a new group of folks had arrived, and we knew the walk would be repeated. The good thing was that most of the camp was empty now, and the internet should work better. We worked on reports and photos while witnessing an elephant stroll by us, as well as several female nyala. Lunch was at 2:30pm with coleslaw, bread, cheese and fruit with crackers and lunchmeats. A bacon and onion quiche was served for us to share. We have to say we have really appreciated the meals here. We hung around the camp for the afternoon until it was time for game drive # 7. Gosh it felt like rain at 4pm, but Tinyiko said no, it would stay dry. But he says that everyday to keep on the positive side. The hippo was not at home in the pond…..seems he has left the building, so to speak. We headed towards a herd of Cape buffalo, because someone in our group was obsessed with getting more photos of them. We were too in the beginning, but they are so prolific, we see them everywhere. We wanted to stop by to see if the leopard was still in tree…he sure was. Now he was knawing on the leg bone that he had separated from the impala. More specifically, he was chewing on the knuckle. We could hear the bone crushing, but Tinyiko said he would not eat the actual bone, just the knuckles. Continuing on, we saw 5 rhino, a nice sunset, and a brief rain shower. It was time for sundowners with small bags of chips and beer for us. One of the guests, the single fellow, took the bags of chips as if they were all for him. Really…our guide took them back and gave them to everyone. By now, it was dark, so on the ride home we saw one brush hare, a small owl hawk, and a nightjar that flew like a helicopter catching bugs. Back at the camp, dinner seemed to running late, because some of the new guests were slow in arriving to the Summer House. They seem bent on getting those cocktails, which they did, but the rest of us took our seats at our tables. We could enjoy our drinks there. Starters were a squash soup as well as a cold plate of asparagus and fried cheese with a special white sauce. Lamb chops were the main course, but as tasty as they were, they were a bit tough. Roasted potatoes and cheesy cauliflower was served on the side. Dessert was a half of a poached pear with a dab of whipped cream. We were so tired, we fell asleep immediately once back to our cabin. We have to mention there is no television or radio here. And you know what? We haven’t even missed it. Bill & Mary Ann

Report # 72 Sunday March 12, 2023 Day #3 At Sabi Sands Bush Camp Hot, Overcast And Muggy With Heavy Down Pours In The Evening 85 Degrees Part #1 Of 3..........72 Pictures We were up at 4am….you all know the drill by now. The five of us loaded into the Landrover and left the camp by 5:45am. It was very overcast and muggy, and sure felt like rain. Our first stop seems to be at the pond with the hippo every day. He almost doesn’t look real, since all he does is rise up a few inches, then submerges. What a life. Tinyiko got a call that a leopard had been spotted and it may have made a kill. Passing the herds of impala and Cape buffalo, we were the first to see a male leopard, who had just hauled his dead impala up a tall tree. Panting heavily, he sat on a branch a few feet away and watched the now limp animal. Then two more safari vehicles drove up, tipped off by Tinyiko, who communicates with a central dispatcher. Our camp shares territory with the Sabi Sabi Camp, but also used to share with Mala Mala Camp. However, the agreement must have been dissolved with Mala Mala we were told. Anyway, the leopard had recovered from the earlier kill, and proceeded to play with the impala, just like a domestic cat might play with a mouse. We have never seen this behavior before today, but our driver said it is most common. Then he proceeded to pull the hair off of the hide to access the meat. Then suddenly, it began to rain lightly, and the leopard stopped eating and crawled into the most dense part of the tree. He would never leave this fresh kill, but he did not like getting wet. The rain eventually stopped as fast as it had started. Lucky. We did not like the rain either, so Tinyiko handed out hooded ponchos that seemed to work great for a while. That’s when we came across some southern ground hornbill birds. These rare birds weigh about 8 pounds, but have a wing span that exceeds 40 inches. Reading the bird guidebook Tinyiko leaves in the console, we read that these birds are on the brink of extinction. These days, their numbers are about 15,000 in all of Kruger. We had another leopard sighting….a male hiding in the grass. Several Landrovers pinned the big cat in, and it hunkered down so low, we could hardly see it. The leopard could care less. A mile away, the herd of impala grazed as if nothing had happened to one of their own this morning. Just another day of the cycle of life in Kruger National Park. We were back to camp by 9:15am, where we sat down to a breakfast with the usual starters and omelets filled with ham, cheese, bacon, onions, and mushrooms. Toast was served also. Bill needed time to process photos, so he opted out of the bush walk. If you have the same guide, the walks can be repetitive. The internet has remained spotty and we had trouble downloading the Kindle. Yanna, the young Dutch assistant, offered to take the device to her office and try to update it there. We said we would bring it back at lunch and let her give it a try. While Bill was working on photos, it was time for ‘fun with monkeys”. The small troop of vervet monkeys paid a visit to our balcony. While sitting there reading, they approached one by one watching me sit there. So I went inside and opened a small package of snack mix, lining up a row of the treat on the railing. The largest female came right down from the tree limbs and plucked each and every morsel up, stuffing them into her fat cheeks. Bet she will not share with her babies. The troop hung around waiting for more handouts, but I wanted to save some for later. Eventually they left to look for more guests on their balconies. We headed for the pool, which we remembered as being ice cold. Not dressed for swimming, we just relaxed on the lounges in the sun for a while. Lunch was served at 2pm, and the starters were little taquitos with a sweet and sour dip. The usual platter of cheese, crackers, ham, salami, and fruit was served, along with drinks. Today the main was a savory beef stew pie, which was covered with a phyllo dough and baked until crisp. Bread and butter completed the meal nicely. The rain had picked up, and it was coming down so hard it sounded like falling gravel hitting the metal roofs. Then it stopped, and the sun peeked out. Some wart hogs and two nyalas wandered past our veranda so close we could have touched them. Trying the Kindle online at lunch time seemed to work, as the updates began to activate. Having enough to do, we decided not to bother Yanna as we think we got it to work more or less. The afternoon drive began at 4pm. We got a new guy from Australia, who was most peculiar with his behavior. Not the typical safari guest, he broke about every rule the driver had told him, except for actually getting out of the vehicle, which he claimed he might do just to see what would happen. Tinyiko said go ahead, but let us get our cameras and video ready to film what might happen. Then our guide said no, do not do that. All joking aside, these are wild animals and unpredictable. The first stop was to see the leopard with the dead impala. He was still there protecting his kill but had already consumed much of it. Giving him some space, we saw wildebeest, the always present impala, a giraffe, and some rollers. We came upon the lions who were running about and eating. That’s when the rain really started to come down hard. It was so heavy, it was blowing sideways right at us. Of course, there is no windshields up on these vehicles, so the rain hits you head on. This time those ponchos did nothing, as they leaked miserably. A decision was made to abort the mission, and go directly back to camp. That gave us one hour to dry off and download some photos. No sundowners in the bush tonight. Dinner was at 7:30pm, with time for a cocktail. This time we ordered Knob Creek on the rocks, finding it a good way to warm up a bit. A better warm up was the puree soup with croutons and fresh bread. Small salads were next, followed by roasted chicken with mixed veggies and rice. At the end of the meal, a shot of Amarula was served in small glasses. Slices of a layer cake were brought topped with whipped cream and a red maraschino cherry. We were early to bed before 10pm. What a day. Bill & Mary Ann

Greetings to all! Just a quick message to let you all know that we are back on the ship today after having a wonderful time. Took hundreds of photos of leopards and lions and more, but they take time to process. Will be sending them along soon with the reports. Stay tuned..... Bill & Mary Ann

Report #71 Saturday March 11, 2023 Day #2 At Sabi Sands Bush Camp Very Hot And Muggy With Afternoon Clouds 85 Degrees Part #1 Of 2........71 Pictures This morning began with a wake-up knock on the door by a staff member at 5am. If you choose not to go on the morning game drive, you let them know the night before, and they will skip your cottage. Coffee, tea, or hot chocolate is served in the Summer House, but we wisely decided to pass on the offer, since the drive can last over three hours. There are no bush toilets. Only two land rovers were used because the British couple were going home today, and had decided to sleep in. There were only three of us, which was nice. The gentleman sharing this vehicle is from South Africa, and is quite knowledable with the animals as well as the birds. It is seldom that we find guests that share our desire to see the variety of birds as well as the larger animals. The sightings this morning began with the lone kudu, so many impalas we lost count, and one hippo, who was sharing his pond with three Cape buffalo. On the banks of this pond were Egyptian geese, very noisy ibis, and pretty little yellow weaver birds. They create the most interesting nests hanging from the branches of certain trees. Following that, we passed by three giraffes, a herd of Cape buffalo, and nine lazy lions. Our driver stayed the longest with these lions, some of which were males. Their behavior during the warm morning hours was to lay low, roll over and over on their backs, and pant heavily. It’s not because they are hot, it is their way of digesting their food. We could not believe how close we got to these magnificent animals, while they did their thing….trying to sleep while batting the flies away. A fully grown male lion can sleep 20 hours a day. Time to move to give others a chance to watch the lions, we spotted the cutest small mongooses, who paused, stood up on their haunches to see us, then fled into the thick grass. Gone in seconds, they literally disappeared. We were in for a treat with bird sightings…..guinea fowl with chicks, ground-racing francolins (like a big quail), European and lilac- breasted rollers, and young orange or red-beaked hornbills. Still no signs of leopards that Tinyiko keeps an eye out for. We were back to the camp by 9am, and went to breakfast right afterwards. They serve an abundant breakfast, we might add. Starters were orange juice, yogurts, fruit toppings, granola, croissants, and preserves and coffee. Plates of assorted fresh fruit and slices of avocados, tomatoes, and prosciutto were on the side. This would have been plenty for us……but our orders were taken for either an omelet or eggs Benedict with toast. Yes, this would keep us until lunch at 2:30pm. Two couples left the camp, and two or more people were arriving later. There is always a revolving door, and now….we can be the greeters. Bill opted for the hour and a half bush walk at 10:30am with our driver and the two young girls that are sisters from South Africa he learned. One of us stayed behind to catch up on reports and answer emails. The good news is that we do have wifi here, but it is temperamental and spotty at best. While typing from the couch, a half dozen vervet monkeys peaked through the sliding glass doors, and actually tried to get inside the room. Good thing the doors are wood-framed and heavy. These monkeys are little rascals, and most amusing, except for when they storm the dining room stealing food. It happened this morning, making one guest scream. That’s when one of the staff will come out with the air gun that shoots little plastic balls at them. The monkeys seem to know what this gun is and will scatter for a while. When the day heats up, these monkeys will disappear and go sleep somewhere. Having some time to sit outside on the lounge chair, a large toad landed on my leg, scaring the devil out of me. Teaches me to check the chairs and the surrounding area before sitting down. At least, it wasn’t a snake…… Lunch was served at 2:30pm, right after Bill took the second shower of the day. Today, it was Indian cuisine with a bowl of hot curried vegetables spooned over a bed of white rice. Bread, crackers, cheeses with watermelon and canteloupe slices and grapes were the dessert. There were three small bowls of food we did not recognize. In addition, a small jar of gummy bears are put on the table to share. Our third game drive began at 4pm. Some new guests arrived. It is probably a good time to mention the weather. We have lucked out and have had mostly sunny skies with some clouds. It has been very warm and muggy, but no sign of rain yet. Animals we saw were the one male hippo, who recently wandered into the area and never left. More Egyptian geese were in the pond, with the herd of impala nearby. Their numbers seemed to increase daily. Large animals we saw were elephants, giraffe, Cape buffalo, wildebeest, 8 lions (one was hiding), a nyala, one marshal eagle and a tawny eagle hawk. Lucky for us, Tinyiko keeps a Kruger Park bird book in the console. The prettiest are the bee eaters and rollers, which we also spotted. A big event took place on the evening drive. That is the “braai” or the barbequed meats with cocktails in the bush. Just as the sun went down, our driver came into a camp where bonfires were burning and a table full of finger food was set. A full bar was available too. We asked for the beers – Castel and Back Label. Then Joseph, the head guide performed his bush talk accompanied by calls of the wild. He does it so well, we all watched our backs for the animals to come. The darkness of night added to the ambience as Joseph mimicked hyenas, jackals, lions, and other animals that come out at night. The stars overhead were brilliant. Nothing has changed with this feature since the first visit we had here. We were all back to camp a bit later, and dinner was ready after 8pm. The meal began with a delicious tomato soup, and appetizers of avocado, asparagus and shrimp. The main dish was an oxtail stew, mashed potatoes, and assorted veggies. Dessert was the best…..creme Brulee with a shot glass full of Amarula. Barb would kill for this treat. The special chocolates arrived, as if we needed more. We took them back to the room just in case we get hungry, ha-ha. Both of us were sound asleep by 10:15pm. Bill & Mary Ann

Report # 70 Friday March 10, 2023 Durban, South Africa Enroute To Sabi Sands Bush Camp Docked On Portside 4am-5pm Mostly Cloudy Turning To Sun 85 Degrees Part #1 Of 4.........72 Pictures What a day it turned out to be getting cleared and off of the ship in Durban, South Africa in a timely manner. Despite the fact that the Zuiderdam was docked by 4am, the local customs and immigrations procedure was delayed while we waited for the officials to set up in the upper dining room. Originally it was set to begin at 7:15am, but did not start until a half hour later. This was not a concern for the majority of folks that were not on shore excursions or over lands, like us. We had received a letter showing the group beginning with A would be first to be screened. However, when we went to line up outside the dining room at 7am, there was a line 30 deep, which grew to a line to the show lounge. Not one person checked for group numbers. Our only concern was that we connect with our driver and arrive to the airport in time for the 10:30am flight to Nelspruit. Barring any other complications, we did have some wiggle room. Before 8am, the four officials showed up and the line began to move. Our room keys were scanned, then we handed over the arrival forms (amended from their error) and our passports, which got stamped twice. Unusual these days most everything is done electronically. A yellow sticker was added to our room keys on the way out, showing we had completed the customs check. Free to go, we headed back to the room where we had finished the packing at 5am for the quick get-away. No breakfast for us today. Once outside the ship, we recalled there was no terminal, where we were instructed to meet our driver. There were a few private vehicles there, but none for us. Now what? Henk was there to assist all of the over land tours, and tried to help us. That’s when a nice rep from Akorn, another local travel agency, asked if we needed help, which we said yes, we do. Showing her the list of rides we had pre-booked, she located our driver who was outside the gate. He probably knew we would never be off of the ship by 7:30am, and showed up after 8am. Whatever the reason, we were most happy to see him, and we were off for the long ride to King Shaka International Airport in Durban, arriving by 9am. On the way there, we saw something had been hit on the road. Where we live, many racoons or skunks get run over, but here, it was an unfortunate monkey. Our driver was full of info as we left the high rises of the city, and headed to the airport located in the rural area of town. Everywhere we looked it was lush green and wet from a month’s worth of rain. Too much he said. We told him about California getting too much snow and rain as well. Most of the surrounding hills were covered with sugar cane, some of which was being burned to clear out the rats and snakes. Yikes. The smoke added a dingy cast to the cloudy sky. Our flight was with Airlink leaving at 10:30am. Checking in was a breeze, especially with one duffel that weighed under 44 pounds. Going through security was even easier, as we did not have to take off shoes or separate liquids. Only the computer had to come out of the bag. And of course, the new knee set off the alarm, where I was given the “pat down” and released. No questions asked and nothing explained. From the small gate, our tickets and passports were looked at and pen-swiped before exiting the door. From there we boarded little buses to drop us off at the plane, where we climbed steps to enter it. We were off and running right on time for the one hour 10 minute flight. Certainly not expecting it, we were served a drink of our choice and either a beef or chicken sandwich. How about that? Having missed breakfast, this was perfect and the food was really good. We landed at Kruger Mpumalanga International Airport by 11:40am, and were in the receiving hall by noontime. This has to be the cutest airport ever and the smallest. Once we got our duffel, we went out the doors and our driver, Adolph, was right there with our names on his computer. Perfect. He was driving a small but newer SUV, which was comfortable for the two plus hour ride to the camp. We weren’t out of the airport for more than a minute before we saw impala grazing along the roadside. The landscape out of Nelspruit was full of orange groves, a major crop here, as well as farmed timber. Miles and miles of it. We passed lumber mills, banana groves, and a macadamia nut factory on the way to Hazyview, one of the major settlements. It is large enough to have a mall called the Lowveld Mall ,a McDonalds, and a KFC among other amenities. Diesel was sold for 23.38 rand a liter. Not sure of the conversion but will list it later. We arrived at Shaw’s Gate which is one of the entrances to Kruger National Park. The driver had to stop, show papers, and have his electronic window pass scanned by the park guard. The bar was lifted and we were able to enter. Once we left the paved road, the ride really became bumpy as it was rutted and muddy from the recent flooding rains. Despite the condition, we did arrive at the Bush Camp by 2pm, right on schedule. What a royal greeting we got from the managers and staff. We were offered lemon water, wash clothes, and led to our cottage (#3) for the next 6 days. We will definitely go into greater detail on the room amenities later, but for now, the biggest thrill was seeing a kudu right below our balcony eating away at the brush. It stayed all afternoon, showing no fear of us at all. By the way, we had been forewarned about some animals that were seen around the cottages last night and early in the morning. One of them had gotten on a balcony and took off with a pillow, destroying it. Of course, we thought monkeys. But no, it was a female leopard, her cub, and a young male. The staff were taking extra precautions to escort the guests, especially at night, to the Summer Hall dining room. Thank you very much…..we will keep that in mind. Lunch was served at 2:30pm, where we were served salad, fresh bread, deep-fried calamari, chicken tenders, a platter of cheeses, prosciutto, cantaloupe, and crackers. Drinks were offered, which we ordered sugar free Cokes. Other guests in the camp were there as well. They all introduced themselves and we found most were from South Africa. Two young girls traveling together had accents, but not sure where they were from. One other couple were from England, but they were going home tomorrow. This is the first time the existing group was so friendly. Sometimes it is hard to come into a crowd that has bonded. But not this time. Our first game drive began at 4pm, where we joined Tonyika, the driver, the British couple and one friendly man from South Africa. I asked permission to ride shotgun, and they gladly said please do. I could navigate the climb into the raised Landrover, but would prefer not to. The animal sightings were numerous starting with a hippo, nine rhinos, at least 100 impala, many beautiful birds, nine female lions, and six elephants. How’s that for starters??? Tonyiko remained vigilant looking for those leopards, but had no luck. On the way back, we stopped for sundowners, drinks while the sun was setting. We had ice cold local beers and the others went for the sodas and waters. Back at the camp by 7pm, we freshened up and headed for dinner at 7:45pm. The good thing is that we do have lights, overhead fans, and air-conditioning this time. Much has been improved since we were here in 2018. Candles are nice, but we like to be able to see better and avoid any possible accidents. We have to add that the in-room free-standing bathtub was filled with hot bubbly water, lined with luminary candles, with champagne on ice. A note was left on the carpet saying “Welcome home…we missed you. We are so happy you are visiting again. We wish you a wonderful time and great game viewing. The Notten’s team, with love.” Now it was a good thing we did not attempt to get into the tub, since it was full of soapy water. We have heard stories of being stuck in that tub, not being able to get out of it due to slippery sides and bottoms. A nice touch anyway. Dinner was served after cocktails at 8pm. This time we sat on the covered outdoor patio, where tenderloin steaks were barbequed. Wine was offered, but we said no thanks. A creamy vegetable soup was the starter as well as a small cantaloupe and prosciutto salad covered with balsamic vinaigrette. Bread and buttered croutons were eaten with the steak, small potatoes, and fresh mixed veggies. The absolute best was the small glass of Amarula, a favorite liqueur made here. A glass of chocolate mousse was brought and coffee offered. A bowl of fancy assorted chocolates were the final treat. We were escorted back to the room with a guide and flashlight by 9:40pm. Showered and cooled off, we poured ourselves into the 4 poster bed under the fans, and slept like babies. Until 4am, when we had to get up to be ready for the morning game drive. Good grief. But that’s a story for tomorrow. Bill & Mary Ann

Report # 69 Thursday March 9, 2023 Sea Day Enroute To Durban, South Africa Sunny And Warm 85 Degrees Sea State Still Rolling 8' Swell Part #1 Of 1.......0 Pictures A day at sea is what we needed to complete our packing for our overland safari. Following a detailed list, it took longer than we thought to reduce what we actually needed to meet the 44 pound limit on the checked luggage. Of course, we could both bring that much, but one bag was just enough. With just a few last minutes things to stash, we will be ready to go early tomorrow morning. After breakfast, we picked up our passports by 9:30am. It is easy how they are distributed now….deck by deck. So much quicker and no lines. One job done, but more to go later. After our warm and humid walk, we stopped by the officer’s rooms and talked to Maja and Henk. They explained what would happen tomorrow with the immigration officials, and how the face-to-face check will operate. Since we are guests with independent overland arrangements, our group A will go first to see them on deck 3 in the dining room. We learned later that our “fancy” breakfast will have to be downstairs instead. The remainder of the tour folks will be called afterwards, ending with those who are not on tours going last. Maja reassured us that this procedure should be way better than yesterday’s check in Maputo. Sounded like things got tense to say the least. We also made a stop in Shiv’s office to say goodbye to the best head of housekeeping ever. He and his staff have made this trip really comfortable, as always. Before we knew it, lunchtime had arrived. There was another brunch in the dining room at 11am, but we did not attend. Barb, Heo and Greg went, but they said the numbers of guests have been going down. We ordered room service chicken noodle soup, which we will miss for 6 days. Sharing a BBQ pulled pork sandwich was plenty. We still have a few Tim Tams left, and always end the meal with one each. Trying to look up the shore excursions for Durban to Cape Town proved futile. The Navigator app was not working online, and the TV came up empty saying there was a problem with the program. It seems that their system has been plagued since day one, especially with the sound interruptions. Don’t know if it will ever be fixed. Then later in the afternoon, we all received the pre-filled out Arrival Forms for South Africa. Upon reading the details, we discovered that both of our birthdays were totally incorrect. Thinking it just happened to us, we went down to the front desk with passports in hand, to have the dates corrected. Well, we were not alone as there was a line 10 deep already there asking the same question. We were advised to scratch out the incorrect dates, and write in the correct ones. Then we had to sign it underneath. Sure hope this works. After dinner, we had a note saying there was a “merge error” and were given instructions on how to manually write it in. How in the world did that happen? And we can bet that many of the passengers never even check the forms before they go to the procedure tomorrow. There were only six of us at dinner as Susie was absent…..not feeling well, she stayed home. There were some usual appetizers, but some new ones as well. We had a big chuckle over the non-descriptive names some of these items are given. Such as what is bisi-risi? That came with the chicken Kiev. Turned out to be a sticky rice with peas. The cobia fish with salsa was one entrée we recognized. We did notice that a few of the chefs were making stops at some of the tables, but they never made it to our side. Maybe they can explain some of the entrée descriptions in plain language someday. Hoping to turn in early this evening, we set the alarm clock for 5am. We need to be first in line for the officials at 7:15am. Bill & Mary Ann

Report #68 Wednesday March 8, 2023 Maputo, Mozambique Docked Starboard Side To Pier 6am-6pm Sunny And Warm 90 Degrees Part #1 Of 3.........70 Pictures Today’s port of call was Maputo, Mozambique, and our very first stop in mighty Africa. Even though our arrival time was 6am, the ship was not cleared until after 8am. Things can move at a much slower pace in this part of the world, we have read. That includes the local officials going over passports and visas for the guests and crew. Good thing this was not a face-to-face drill. This was the nail-biting time for those that booked safaris either with HAL or independently. The over lands included a trip to Kruger National Park at Jock Safari Lodge for 56 hours at $4000 double or $4300 single. It was the same amount of time and money for the Lukimbi Camp, and the Train on the Bridge Ahalti was $3600 for 56 hours or $4000 single. Day tours included Maputo sights $90, City tour and Sun for $120, or Taste of Maputo for $120. Discover Maputo was $ 160. The shortest and least expensive was a walk through town for $50. During our breakfast on deck three, we watched as the local officials filled the far upper corner of tables, and proceeded to do the passport business mixed with breakfast service. This was already 7:30am when we saw them, so by 8:30am, we think the ship was cleared. Going out on the deck, we watched as several officers waved goodbye to at least seven vans full of over land guests. They appeared to be the first ones to leave the ship. And we have to mention, the temperature was already in the high 80’s and climbing. As for us, we chose to stay onboard for the day. We have toured the train station that Gustav Eiffel designed, the iron house, and visited the old museum. So we felt no need to retrace our steps today. By the way, there was a free shuttle bus to take folks to the FEIMA Market with local crafts and curios. These buses were running every 30 minutes until 5pm. The country of Mozambique has a population of 25.3 million people that speak basically Portuguese. Maputo is the capital and offers dune-fringed beaches, turquoise waters filled with tropical fish, corals, and some elusive dugongs. The city is loaded with colonial architecture with a cultural mix of African, Arabic, Indian, and Portuguese people. According to some sources, Maputo is one of Africa’s most attractive capitals. It has the waterside setting, Mediterranean style architecture, and wide streets full of jacarandas and flame trees. However, in all big cities there is another side that reveals not-so-glitzy areas. And from what we remember, Maputo is no exception. One has to be smart and watch your backside. They have enjoyed 20 years of peace, preceded by tumultuous civil wars that wiped out much of the wild animals. It was said that armies do not march on empty stomachs, and that is where the wild animals ended up. And there was the ever-present black market on animal parts to sell for huge amounts of money. It has been reported that since those dark days, the wildlife is making a comeback in Gorongosa National Park. The list of animals include impalas, waterbucks, warthogs, sable antelope, hippos, crocs, elephants and lions. There are over 300 species of birds too. So what do people eat here? Matapa is cassava leaves with peanut sauce and can be served with giant prawns and calamari, as well as chicken. Their favorite drink is Dois M beer, especially cold if you can find it. Coconut milk and chili peppers are used in most dishes. And finally, here is a random fact: a future bridegroom must prove he can work before an engagement can be approved by family members. Not a bad idea anywhere in the world. We spent the day like it was a day at sea. Luckily, the ship was docked starboard, and they had the sun shining on that deck. Our side was in the shade most of the day with a view of the bay. One structure that we could see clearly was the Katembe Bridge, a three kilometer long suspension bridge built in 2018. It is 680 meters long and 60 meters high and is the longest suspension bridge in Africa……quite a feat to brag about. It was completed at a cost of 785 million dollars, which was on loan from China banks. The China Road and Bridge Corporation was developed in conjunction with the help of Germany, who engineered the design of this structure. It connects Maputo to Swaziland and cuts the driving time by 5 hours. Now it takes 90 minutes to drive that distance. The fee for a car or motorcycle crossing the span is equivalent to $2.00 USD. Large trucks cost more. Another plus of staying onboard was the opportunity to see and film a variety of birds. Later in the morning, the tide had receded, exposing huge mud flats. This sent many water birds such as the large blue herons in flight back and forth over the bay area. We also spotted the smaller terns that dipped in the water to catch tiny fish, as well as flocks of crows, gulls, and swallows later in the evening. Many smaller birds were very vocal, but hiding in the nearby dock trees. We suspect they were mynah birds. All aboard was at 5:30pm, but because another commercial ship was slow in leaving the bay, we did not eave until closer to 7pm. Wanting to get some shots of the downtown area, we went up to deck 10. We were treated to a very nice sunset which presented itself right under the Katembe Bridge. It dipped below into the clouds, then disappeared. But by 7pm, the afterglow was really nice as the bridge lit up for the evening. The best thing about leaving later was the fact the temperature had dropped a lot, and a wind came up. Dinner was a “romantic table for two”, since our tablemates were dining elsewhere. Boy did we get great service or what? One of us had the Dutch pea soup which was delicious, and the other a crab roll. Salads for both were followed by a salmon dinner and a pasta plate with slices of chicken. It is so nice of our waiter to let us create our own dishes. We were done without rushing by 8:40pm. Perfect for us for a change. There was no live show, but a movie in the World Stage, Mandela: Long Walk to Freedom. It was a 2 hour and 21 minute document/drama about Nelson Mandela’s life as South Africa’s president and his unbelievable path to get there. Tomorrow we will have to pack for our overland trip on Friday. Getting excited now….. Bill & Mary Ann

Report # 67 Tuesday March 7, 2023 Last Sea Day Enroute To Maputo, Mozambique Sunny And Warmer 85 Degrees Sea State 6-8' Swell Following Wind Part #1 Of 1..........13 Pictures Our fourth day at sea on the way to Mozambique was rather nice as far as the weather and seas go. It has been warming up now that we are closer to land, and the seas have calmed down significantly. We must be far away from the cyclone now. Captain Friso made good use of the extra day to swing further south and come to the coast without any problems. This morning we heard the story of the lady that had part of the ceiling fall on her in the Ocean bar a few days ago. It occurred during the sit, knit, needlework and Project Linus session at 10am. We were told by a witness that the ship was moving much more than normal, when a panel dropped. The lady was just reaching for something on a table, when this panel came down on her neck and back. What a shock that must have been. She did receive injuries, but it could have been much worse. Hopefully she will be fine. Our day was quiet with several walks, but no sitting in the sun. It had warmed up enough that sitting on deck 10 may have been dangerous. Our biggest job was beginning our series of meds for anti-malaria prevention. We will have to take daily pills until well after we return to the ship on March 15th. Besides using insect repellant, the meds are a good way to prevent transmission. Everyone got an important message regarding Maputo, Mozambique today. It was in regards to what necessary documents are needed to get off of the ship, especially the overland folks. They will need their passports, Covid 19 vaccination proof, as well as their room key and government ID. Those on a daily excursion either through the ship or independent, need to leave the passport home. But they will have to have keycards, photo ID, passport photocopy, and Covid vaccination proof. Those going ashore without any plan will need to take the same things. Finally, those of us that chose to stay onboard can disregard all of the above. There are many of us that have taken this option. Another safety reminder for all African ports of call arrived in our mail slots this afternoon. It began by reassuring us that HAL would not take us into any port that would present an unreasonable risk to safety and security. However, some places are more challenging requiring enhanced awareness by the guests. The mentioned places are Maputo (one of the reasons we are not getting off), Durban, East London, and Cape Town. So it is suggested to be careful with taxis, do not wear flashy jewelry, take care with handbags, cameras, and all valuables, and avoid any shortcuts. Travel in groups, stay in open places, avoid political rallies or demonstrations, and be careful with cash…do not show a large amount of it in public. We have seen many incidences that involved crew members going off the ship at night time in some of these ports. Not a great idea, even with a group. They are targeted by larger local groups. Then Captain Friso mentioned during his noon talk that customs and immigrations may be tedious tomorrow. He estimated the time to process each guest will be 15 minutes. That could affect the tour groups heading off for safaris and over lands. Unless some independent guests are flying to safari camps and need to get to the airport, the others will not be affected as much since they are traveling by bus over the border. Sure can get complicated in this part of the world. Hope they have the process figured out tomorrow, and are prepared for Durban where we get off for 6 days. We had a brief but colorful sunset as we walked the promenade deck around 6:30pm. While watching the sun go down, we happened to see some pods of dolphins in the distance. Barely breaking the surface, this is the first sign of wildlife we have seen for days. With the exception of some flying fish. Not one bird in sight so far. Dinner found all present with stories of last night surprise party. Barb had a fine time dancing to the music and visiting cruise friends. Greg and Heo said the party continued past midnight. Some of the crew members had changed from their uniforms and joined in with the guests. We did see some video of many officers mixing with the crowd. And from what we heard, most everyone had changed from formal to really casual. The sliced beef tenderloin was a good choice for an entrée, while the corvina fish was tasty. And we did take notice that our service was better with how we all got our starters and entrees in a timely manner. For a change, our table was not last to leave the room. Thank goodness there was no time change again this evening. That really does catch up with you. Bill & Mary Ann