IntrepidFromDC
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Monterosso seen from the Vernazza beach. I had lunch in Monterosso after getting off the ferry just yesterday. It feels like a week ago. You know that feeling you sometimes get on an amazing, over-stimulating vacation, where time warps and loses meaning? Yeah, that feeling. 🙂
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My pre-vacay research yielded that the regional pasta of Liguria, and especially Cinque Terre, is "trofie", which I had never heard of before. Some Italian food becomes famous in the US, others not so much. I ordered homemade trofie with homemade pesto for lunch, plus a parma ham and fresh mozzarella sandwich as backup, or to eat on the train to Parma tomorrow. Both were amazing! Oh, a couple Italian margaritas may have helped. I wish I had one more day in Cinque Terre!
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Just off the train from Manarola to Vernazza. They run every 10 minutes or so and are always packed. About 4 or 5 minutes between villages.
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More pics of beautiful Manarola including a natural spring and prickly pear cactus bearing fruit. Plus, the entrance to the train station - another tunnel under a mountain. On to Vernazza! I'm hungry after that early hike! I sustained a bloody injury on the hiking trail but I will spare you the pic. My daughter will not be so lucky.
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A fisherman in Manarola prepares his rigging for tomorrow.
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Manarola Stazione.
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A couple pics of ladies boutiques for the ladies. I am happy to report a much better balance of shopping (i.e., mix of boutiques, t-shirt shops, bars and trattorias, souvenir shops, etc.) than in Positano.
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I was STUNNED to find Manarola even more beautiful than Riomaggio!
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Finally, a view of Manarola and nearing the end of the trail!
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From the peak, these are photos looking back at Riomaggiore and forward to Corniglia. We can't see Manarola because the mountain is so steep it is vertically below me.
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If it doesn't look tough, trust me it is. Its called the Becca Trail if you want to consider it. Bring water, you will need it.
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And so it begins.
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Approaching the trailhead. There is an easier trail between the villages that locals used as the only way besides boat to get from one village to the other for hundreds of years. But it remains closed until 2024 due to fires/landslides I think.
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I don't think I mentioned this before but Riomaggiore is separated by a small but impassable mountain. To get from one side to the other, the only way is the pedestrian tunnel under the mountain, whichtakes about 5 minutes to walk. most of the good stuff is on the south of the tunnel but the train station is on the north side. Photos show the tunnel, and looking back at the train station after beginning the 900ft ascent. Since Riomaggiore and Manarola are both sea level, I have another 90pft climb down the other side.
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Cinque Terre: today I am going all in on Manarola and Vernazza. I start with a 2hr hike including a 900-ft climb over a mountain between Riomaggiore and Manarola. Explore Manarola in depth then take the train to Vernazza for lunch. Explore Vernazza in depth then catch a train back to Riomaggiore for dinner at the #1 rated ristorante in Cinque Terre. I have already decided to return to Cinque Terre, today is a chance to visit excursion kiosks to help start planning my next visit. Like Venice, Cinque Terre is stealing my heart.
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The fresh mullet grilled over olive tree plank soaked in Italian bbq herbs and olive oil. Excellent. Before pic:
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I had dinner at Trattoria La Grotta, recommended by my airbnb host who has been great, making restaurant reservations for me, etc. It was very good especially the fresh mullet.
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Today I walked the whole town of Riomaggiore, including side streets which are medieval narrow. Riomaggiore is steeper than Positano. My thighs feel the burn but it feels good cuz I stayed hydrated. No cars anywhere which I love.
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Most ristorantes that want to draw tourists have menus in several languages. Two of the places I ate at did not and a sandwich shop had nobody to even SPEAK English. The NERVE! 😉 🏴☠️
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Monterosso, where I had lunch.
