Review: Disabled Traveller, NG Explorer (Antarctica/S. Georgia)

Here are some notes for disabled travellers considering voyaging on NG Explorer, with attention to the itinerary I went on—Antarctica, S. Georgia and the Falklands. Bottom-bottom I had a wonderful trip and that's thanks to expedition leader Bud Lehnhausen, his second Rachel Eaton, their staff, and the ship's crew. What follows are details that may help you decide if this ship/itinerary is a fit for the disabled traveler in your party. I posted a more general review of the trip in another thread ( http://boards.cruisecritic.com/showthread.php?t=1751022 ); read that thread in parallel with this one.

ABOUT ME

The best I can describe myself is that I'm a slower, pudgy version of the Kevin Spacey character Verbal in the film “The Usual Suspects”. I walk very slowly unassisted and go upstairs/uphill much more easily than downstairs/downhill. My right side is normal, my left deformed, with my left leg shorter than my right and about 40% strength/use of my left arm. My wife likes to help me walk and she acts as my Sherpa, which suits me well.

THE OTHERS

While I cannot speak for them, there were other guests with disabilities aboard, including:

--One woman who relied constantly on a walking stick;

--A Southern Belle of a certain age who blew out her hip two days before sailing, came anyway, and spent almost the whole trip confined to the ship on crutches;

--A one-armed guy who may not bear mentioning here: he went on the hikes and moved as well as anyone else

--A man suffering from advancing dementia (I think: at first I just thought he was acting very inappropriately but as the trip wore on I figured I was off-base there)

It must be said that because of the time and financial commitments required for the trip, many guests were senior citizens who were slowing a bit but were by no means disabled. Guests in that group seemed to have zero barriers to participating in any element of the trip.

We had no wheelchair-bound passengers on the ship.

CABIN

We were in the least expensive cabin. Great layout. There were four grab bars: one near the door, one by the toilet, and two in the shower. Furniture was solidly braced. The bathroom, as in many cruise ships, is on a raised platform (roughly 10 inches) to accommodate plumbing. The shower was wide and long enough to accommodate a bench the hotel staff sent to me so I could wash whilst seated on days that ocean motion made it risky for me to stand. The bathroom floor was not slippery. Lighting was excellent throughout the cabin and the rest of the ship.

GETTING ABOUT THE SHIP

We had about eight days at sea, broken into four two-day runs, and the ocean motion we experienced was rated as average. On three of those days I did not leave the cabin. There were many handrails about the ship (covering, in my estimation, 85% of the hallways/deck runs) but I chose not to risk a fall. Sea day activities were largely lectures in the lounge, which were broadcast closed-circuit to the cabins anyway. I took meals in my room.

There is an elevator forward in the ship that serviced all main decks. That said, some areas required the use of stairs. This ranged from the Lounge (three very little stairs) to the Fitness area (a full flight). Some access points had thin, foot-high metal barriers in the doorways that just needed to be stepped over (they were presumably installed to prevent the flow of water from outside-to-inside.

COMMON AREAS

There was plenty of space for someone like me who weaves a bit when he walks. Once up those three little stairs to the Lounge, the room's walking path was broad. There were no handrails inside any common rooms proper, though taut ropes were strung up on sea days for all to use. Hallways were wide enough for people to pass. I found the main dining room fine for space between tables; those who found it confining could stay in the outer dining area (the “Bistro”, exact same menu).

ZODIAC BOARDING AT THE SHIP

Seven solid, metal steps down to the spacious, sheltered platform with handrails on both sides. Typical procedure is to step onto the seat ring which is basically level to the platform, step down on a solid one-step step ladder, step on the Zodiac floor, sit, slide to the back. Guides and crew would support guests by one or both arms as required in and out. Very easy and efficient for the general population. I only do stairs-down with both hands on railings, so this I knew this wasn't a good method either for me or those offering arm support. I was less fearful for myself than for others if I fell on them. Keep reading.

My own experience (I): I resolved myself to drop to the ground and slide on and off Zodiacs on my arse, legs first on, legs last off. Once staff saw that this was of my own volition and I was pretty good at it, all but one naturalist were happy to let me do that. It worked great.

My own experience (II): The dissenting naturalist was vehement—that wouldn't do on his boat, thank you. He is a great guy at heart and meant well, honestly: in heavy swell my method might be dangerous, he explained. The Zodiacs sit in water and are tethered to the platform frame; if they rose and fell significantly, I could fall. I replied that in truly heavy swell, I'd likely stay on the ship. (On this trip, we never saw genuinely wild swell.) That wasn't satisfactory either and he was going to have me get on and off as the others did. First time, no problem. Second time, the crew member on my other side moved unexpectedly and the naturalist took all his weight and all mine (we each exceed 200 lbs...) through his recently scoped knee. We stayed upright but his knee clearly had very much the worst of it. I saw him dragging his leg later that night and I just felt awful.

Zodiacs were required for everything but embarkation/disembarkation in Ushuaia and the landing at Stanley, Falkland Islands.

Although I cannot confirm their reports, repeat Antarctica visitors assured me that zodiac boarding on other ships they had traveled on would have been an abject non-starter for me, and that I was quite lucky to have chosen NG Explorer as my ship. I had actually researched this carefully, and concluded this ship gave me my best shot. When I return to the Southern Ocean, I'm returning on NG Explorer.

LANDINGS

Getting from water to shore was never a problem. I came with proper overboots (NEOS Trekkers), and with a little help, shin-high water was no problem. How far I got on shore depended on terrain. I walked all over Grytviken; at icy, rocky Neko Harbour I made it ten yards and plopped down in a folding chair staff had kindly brought for me from the ship.

You know, it didn't matter: we were out in the wild and the animals were as curious about me as I was about them. They walked right up to me every day. Penguins, sea birds, pinnipeds. Sometimes this led to dodgy situations, like when I fended off a fur seal with a ski pole or pulled a matador's move on a bull elephant seal ten times the size but I'm the type to be exhilarated by such moments, not scared (for the record, I've limped with the bulls at Pamplona). Had I wanted to spend a more sheltered time onshore, that was always an option. I liked the penguins and seal pups inspecting my overboots, and did my best to not let the sheath-bills crap on them.

MODEST DRAMAS IN ARGENTINA

The bathroom in the Buenos Aires Hilton was a fall waiting to happen. Slippery, faulty grab bar, etc. Motor coaches used for city tours in BA and Ushuaia seemed to have stairways that were especially narrow and steep. The walk along the boardwalk in the National Park outside Ushuaia was a little treacherous for me with water freezing to ice underfoot. All these dicey moments happened long before I ever set eyes on the ship. The motorcoach guides always asked if they could assist me in any way.

STAFF

In the end, my trip's success came down to the eager, accommodative ways of Lehnhausen, Eaton, and their staff. Anything I wanted to try, they helped me do. I don't know if they've dealt with people like me before or if they made it up as they went along but they were always thinking four steps ahead of ways to maximize my experience. Sure, I couldn't do most of the hikes. But there was always a naturalist hanging out with me onshore explaining animal behaviours, discussing history, or swapping stories about our work and research.

SUMMARY

Disabilities fall into spectra. This trip isn't for everyone, but the team on NG Explorer certainly made sure it was the trip for me.

I'd be happy to try to answer any questions.

Shawnino--I LOVE your attitude "When I return to the Southern Ocean, I'm returning on NG Explorer." Thank you for your helpful descriptions.

We have a son with left side weakness from a stoke suffered at age 21. He, too, places emphasis on what he CAN do, not what he can't do. And, like you, is considerate of how his disability may effect those around him.

Best wishes for many future exciting adventures!

Shawnino,

Thank you for this wonderful review. The details you included will help many disabled travelers to Antarctica and Georgia. Please post this on the disabled board.

Here are some notes for disabled travellers considering voyaging on NG Explorer, with attention to the itinerary I went on—Antarctica, S. Georgia and the Falklands. Bottom-bottom I had a wonderful trip and that's thanks to expedition leader Bud Lehnhausen, his second Rachel Eaton, their staff, and the ship's crew. What follows are details that may help you decide if this ship/itinerary is a fit for the disabled traveler in your party. I posted a more general review of the trip in another thread ( http://boards.cruisecritic.com/showthread.php?t=1751022 ); read that thread in parallel with this one.

 

ABOUT ME

The best I can describe myself is that I'm a slower, pudgy version of the Kevin Spacey character Verbal in the film “The Usual Suspects”. I walk very slowly unassisted and go upstairs/uphill much more easily than downstairs/downhill. My right side is normal, my left deformed, with my left leg shorter than my right and about 40% strength/use of my left arm. My wife likes to help me walk and she acts as my Sherpa, which suits me well.

 

THE OTHERS

While I cannot speak for them, there were other guests with disabilities aboard, including:

--One woman who relied constantly on a walking stick;

--A Southern Belle of a certain age who blew out her hip two days before sailing, came anyway, and spent almost the whole trip confined to the ship on crutches;

--A one-armed guy who may not bear mentioning here: he went on the hikes and moved as well as anyone else

--A man suffering from advancing dementia (I think: at first I just thought he was acting very inappropriately but as the trip wore on I figured I was off-base there)

 

It must be said that because of the time and financial commitments required for the trip, many guests were senior citizens who were slowing a bit but were by no means disabled. Guests in that group seemed to have zero barriers to participating in any element of the trip.

 

We had no wheelchair-bound passengers on the ship.

 

CABIN

We were in the least expensive cabin. Great layout. There were four grab bars: one near the door, one by the toilet, and two in the shower. Furniture was solidly braced. The bathroom, as in many cruise ships, is on a raised platform (roughly 10 inches) to accommodate plumbing. The shower was wide and long enough to accommodate a bench the hotel staff sent to me so I could wash whilst seated on days that ocean motion made it risky for me to stand. The bathroom floor was not slippery. Lighting was excellent throughout the cabin and the rest of the ship.

 

GETTING ABOUT THE SHIP

We had about eight days at sea, broken into four two-day runs, and the ocean motion we experienced was rated as average. On three of those days I did not leave the cabin. There were many handrails about the ship (covering, in my estimation, 85% of the hallways/deck runs) but I chose not to risk a fall. Sea day activities were largely lectures in the lounge, which were broadcast closed-circuit to the cabins anyway. I took meals in my room.

 

There is an elevator forward in the ship that serviced all main decks. That said, some areas required the use of stairs. This ranged from the Lounge (three very little stairs) to the Fitness area (a full flight). Some access points had thin, foot-high metal barriers in the doorways that just needed to be stepped over (they were presumably installed to prevent the flow of water from outside-to-inside.

 

COMMON AREAS

There was plenty of space for someone like me who weaves a bit when he walks. Once up those three little stairs to the Lounge, the room's walking path was broad. There were no handrails inside any common rooms proper, though taut ropes were strung up on sea days for all to use. Hallways were wide enough for people to pass. I found the main dining room fine for space between tables; those who found it confining could stay in the outer dining area (the “Bistro”, exact same menu).

 

ZODIAC BOARDING AT THE SHIP

Seven solid, metal steps down to the spacious, sheltered platform with handrails on both sides. Typical procedure is to step onto the seat ring which is basically level to the platform, step down on a solid one-step step ladder, step on the Zodiac floor, sit, slide to the back. Guides and crew would support guests by one or both arms as required in and out. Very easy and efficient for the general population. I only do stairs-down with both hands on railings, so this I knew this wasn't a good method either for me or those offering arm support. I was less fearful for myself than for others if I fell on them. Keep reading.

 

My own experience (I): I resolved myself to drop to the ground and slide on and off Zodiacs on my arse, legs first on, legs last off. Once staff saw that this was of my own volition and I was pretty good at it, all but one naturalist were happy to let me do that. It worked great.

 

My own experience (II): The dissenting naturalist was vehement—that wouldn't do on his boat, thank you. He is a great guy at heart and meant well, honestly: in heavy swell my method might be dangerous, he explained. The Zodiacs sit in water and are tethered to the platform frame; if they rose and fell significantly, I could fall. I replied that in truly heavy swell, I'd likely stay on the ship. (On this trip, we never saw genuinely wild swell.) That wasn't satisfactory either and he was going to have me get on and off as the others did. First time, no problem. Second time, the crew member on my other side moved unexpectedly and the naturalist took all his weight and all mine (we each exceed 200 lbs...) through his recently scoped knee. We stayed upright but his knee clearly had very much the worst of it. I saw him dragging his leg later that night and I just felt awful.

 

Zodiacs were required for everything but embarkation/disembarkation in Ushuaia and the landing at Stanley, Falkland Islands.

 

Although I cannot confirm their reports, repeat Antarctica visitors assured me that zodiac boarding on other ships they had traveled on would have been an abject non-starter for me, and that I was quite lucky to have chosen NG Explorer as my ship. I had actually researched this carefully, and concluded this ship gave me my best shot. When I return to the Southern Ocean, I'm returning on NG Explorer.

 

LANDINGS

Getting from water to shore was never a problem. I came with proper overboots (NEOS Trekkers), and with a little help, shin-high water was no problem. How far I got on shore depended on terrain. I walked all over Grytviken; at icy, rocky Neko Harbour I made it ten yards and plopped down in a folding chair staff had kindly brought for me from the ship.

 

You know, it didn't matter: we were out in the wild and the animals were as curious about me as I was about them. They walked right up to me every day. Penguins, sea birds, pinnipeds. Sometimes this led to dodgy situations, like when I fended off a fur seal with a ski pole or pulled a matador's move on a bull elephant seal ten times the size but I'm the type to be exhilarated by such moments, not scared (for the record, I've limped with the bulls at Pamplona). Had I wanted to spend a more sheltered time onshore, that was always an option. I liked the penguins and seal pups inspecting my overboots, and did my best to not let the sheath-bills crap on them.

 

MODEST DRAMAS IN ARGENTINA

The bathroom in the Buenos Aires Hilton was a fall waiting to happen. Slippery, faulty grab bar, etc. Motor coaches used for city tours in BA and Ushuaia seemed to have stairways that were especially narrow and steep. The walk along the boardwalk in the National Park outside Ushuaia was a little treacherous for me with water freezing to ice underfoot. All these dicey moments happened long before I ever set eyes on the ship. The motorcoach guides always asked if they could assist me in any way.

 

STAFF

In the end, my trip's success came down to the eager, accommodative ways of Lehnhausen, Eaton, and their staff. Anything I wanted to try, they helped me do. I don't know if they've dealt with people like me before or if they made it up as they went along but they were always thinking four steps ahead of ways to maximize my experience. Sure, I couldn't do most of the hikes. But there was always a naturalist hanging out with me onshore explaining animal behaviours, discussing history, or swapping stories about our work and research.

 

SUMMARY

Disabilities fall into spectra. This trip isn't for everyone, but the team on NG Explorer certainly made sure it was the trip for me.

 

I'd be happy to try to answer any questions.

How wonderful to see a person with a disability that doesn't let it interfer with what they want to do. It should give courage to us that are only old. "The only thing to fear is fear itself." Who said that?

I believe it was FDR.

He forgot that we should also fear zombies.