Islander to Galapagos, March 2011

[MJC]

I decided to write this after searching for information last year and finding very little. I hope you find it helpful.

 

First, if you are contemplating this itinerary, I highly recommend scmomof2’s review called Galapagos Aboard Endeavor, as much of it applies to the Islander as well. I also have to give a shout out to the Celebrity Xpedition board for all the information I was able to find there and for the nice people who answered my questions. There is very little on CC about the Islander, so I found it very helpful.

 

Flying: Because the flight to The Galapagos is in the morning, usually you fly into Guayaquil the night before. We flew independently from LaGuardia – Miami – Guayaquil and were very stressed about missing a connection, and then our flight leaving MIA was very late. If I did it again I would fly to Guayaquil a day earlier and not have that worry. Generally speaking, the bigger the damage of a missed flight, the more important to get there a day early. My advice is to give yourself the one day buffer. Those on the “official” cruise flight from Miami were even more delayed and didn’t arrive until 3am. They were very tired the next day as they only got a couple hours of sleep. We read advice on CC to visit the duty free in Miami, which we did and had no trouble bringing a bottle of scotch to the ship.

 

Luggage: We followed the guidelines closely as to weight and had to pack carefully as we were also spending a week in Peru. We were concerned about the strictness of the Peruvian domestic flights we would be taking. It turned out the only issue was that American Airlines was VERY STRICT about carry-on size and many people were forced to check their roll-a-boards, both in New York and Miami. Also, upon arrival in San Cristobal our carry-ons were hand-searched pretty thoroughly, so we were glad to have fairly small, very organized hand luggage because we got through that quickly. A piece of advice: between boarding the pangas with your hand luggage, the amount of stairs in airports and climbing onto planes, and the in and out of buses, a roll-a-board is not the most practical hand luggage to bring to The G. I carried a tote and DH had his backpack, both of which came in handy during the trip as well.

 

Arrival: We got through Customs and Immigration in about 30 minutes with no wait for our luggage. We did not travel on the group flight, so I had called the hotel ahead to arrange for shuttle pickup. It was very easy, and we ended up on the shuttle with other Islander passengers traveling independently. At the Hotel Hilton Colon, check-in for all three couples took only five minutes, and a schedule for the next day was waiting for us along with our tickets to Galapagos National Park. We received a free drink voucher so we dropped off our bags and went to the bar, meeting our fellow travelers again. We had a 6am wakeup call, so off to bed by midnight.

 

Day One - To The Galapagos: Our schedule is wake-up call at 6am, luggage in the hall by 6:20, airport pickup at 7:20 for an 8:30 flight. We eat a quick breakfast in the hotel buffet and meet others going to The G on the Endeavor via Baltra (we are headed to San Cristobal). We are given our boarding passes on the bus, so when we get to the airport we go straight through security (5 minutes) to the gate. We have access to a small VIP area with Internet (broken) and coffee (too early). The Aerogal flight is 1.5 hours with a light snack. At San Cristobal, we wait about 15 minutes for buses, take a five minute ride to the pier, and then wait in line about 20 minutes while they transport everyone by panga to the Islander. The sea lions entertain us. Many of us did not anticipate waiting in the sun and wish we had our sunscreen at hand. It is our first and only sunburn for the week. Our luggage was waiting for us in our stateroom.

 

We drop our carry-ons in the room to go explore the ship. We don’t get any farther than the lounge, where they are serving delicious blackberry smoothies. During the cruise week there are always snacks and drinks available in the lounge, and every day a different delicious smoothie during the heat of the day. We go to the general briefing in the lounge by Expedition Leader Sonia and Hotel Manager Sebastian, which lasts about 45 minutes. Then we have lifeboat drill, then 15 minutes until lunch. After lunch, most people nap until our 2:30 daily briefing in preparation for our first outing.

 

Our first outing is a panga ride along the cliffs of San Cristobal to see nesting birds and a volcanic crater. We stop at Cerro Brujo beach for a swim, but the surf is too strong so we are only allowed to walk the beach. The animals and the views are a treat so we don’t mind. Even at 5pm the sun is very hot, and the sand is too hot to walk barefoot. I am glad for my Merrills. We are tired and still on New York time, so after dinner we crash.

 

Day Two – Espanola: We start with the 6am kayak along the cliffs of Espanola, mostly watching birds, crabs and sea lions and admiring the morning glories. After breakfast our first activity is a snorkel, so we head up to the top deck to grab our gear for the week. The provided wetsuits are a must to protect us from the sun, so we grab two shorties. We bring our own masks and snorkels but have to hunt for fins, not a problem for me but DH wears a 13 so it takes a few tries. This is a deep water snorkel so no beginners allowed. We see giant schools of fish. After snorkeling we have the option to go to the beach for a lovely swim along the fine white sand beach, where we see spotted rays mating in the shallows. Those who didn’t snorkel could go to the beach earlier. Sea lions are everywhere.

 

Lunch is an Ecuadorian feast, with ceviche, fish in coconut milk, potato pancakes with peanut sauce, and casaba bread: delicious fuel for the difficult afternoon hike coming up.

Our 2 ½ hour hike to the blowhole and back begins precariously. There are sea lions all over the jetty and packed onto the beach, so we have to clamber from the panga onto some large lava rocks. It is not easy. I am very thankful for my proper hiking boots, though most folks are fine in their Tevas. The mosquitos are brutal and we are immediately swarmed, but fortunately we were warned in the briefing and have bug spray. The guide has some to share too. The landscape is beautiful and unusual and the wildlife is plentiful. Make no mistake, however; this is not a walk but a rock-to-rock hike that proves to be the most difficult one of the whole week.

 

Day Three – Floriana and Champion Islet: We have an early, easy hike to see the sea turtle nests. We pass a lovely lagoon filled with flamingos, and we begin to spot the famous finches. At 6:30am the day is cloudy but beautiful and already amazingly hot. We return to the ship for some huevos rancheros and then a panga ride around Champion Islet, seeing mockingbirds, plovers, boobies and shearwaters. Then we gear up for the famous drift snorkel, which lives up to its reputation. I play with the sea lions, DH sees some sharks – we all climb back into the pangas raving about the things we’ve seen. We are starving and enjoy a lunch of gazpacho and focaccia sandwiches. After two days of 6am activities, we feel entitled to a siesta.

 

We are happy for some low-key afternoon activities. We take a panga tour to the mangroves and see reef sharks, rays, and turtles in the water. We visit a rock outcropping with an array of sea lions, boobies, iguanas, and penguins all piled one on top of the other. We pass other Islander passengers on a kayak trip. Finally, we visit Post Office Bay and learn the story of the early European visitors to the islands. We take a post card from the box to deliver, and we leave one from ourselves. I wonder if it will ever arrive. After dinner, those interested gather on the top deck for an astronomy lesson. The captain turns the lights out up there and it is so dark we can actually see the Milky Way.

 

Day Four – Santa Cruz: Our day in SC is divided into a morning half and an afternoon half, and most passengers choose to do both parts though there is an option to come ashore or return to the ship at lunch time. We have a dry landing at the dock in S.C. where we board a bus for the visit to Darwin Research Station. Normally the ship unloads at the station’s dock, but it was ruined by last year’s tsunami. After we learn about the tortoise breeding program we take lots of photos of the tortoises from various islands. We walk to town and visit an email café to send some messages home, which only costs about $1.50. We do some window shopping and have a cold soda, then sit by the pier and people-watch.

 

The afternoon excursion is a bus trip to the highlands. Our first stop is a hike through a lava tunnel. We have to climb some very steep steps with no railing to speak of down into the tunnel, but once inside it is a fairly easy walk. One lady stays on the bus and will meet up with us later. One man hits his head on an overhang and drops like a stone, but fortunately we have a doctor in our group who assures us that he is fine, and we all continue. We all have flashlights, very helpful. Then we climb back out again at the end. We have a delicious outdoor lunch of chicken and beef and try our first Inka Cola. There is a spectacular view of the ocean and a lovely breeze.

 

After lunch we drive through the countryside looking for wild tortoises. Every time we spot one everyone climbs out to take some pictures and watch them go about their business. I am very excited when we stop at a scalesia forest after reading about them. We visit the two pit craters called Las Gamelas and we spot a woodpecker finch.

 

Day Five – South Plaza: We have a dry landing at a jetty to begin our ½ mile loop trail on South Plaza. The highlight here is sighting the giant land iguanas, but I am also on a mission to photograph a red-billed tropicbird. We watch a lava gull regurgitate a whole fish for her baby. From the clifftops we see big swirling schools of fish in the water below. It has a whole other type of landscape than we have seen before. I shoot my tropicbird, but it takes great patience. On the panga ride back a small hammerhead shark follows us.

Back at the ship, it is time for a deep water swim. We take turns diving from the second and third decks into the deep water. I struggle over the railing to jump from deck two, which is a bit scary but I’d do it again if it were a bit easier to get up there. The kids egg each other on to jump from the Bridge Deck. We are so hot, we’d stay in the water all day if they would bring us lunch!

 

During lunch we head to Santa Fe and en route we see flying fish in the distance. Then it’s time for another snorkel. We get up close and friendly with the sea lions, as the click of my camera makes them curious to see what I’m doing. We see so many fish and rays. Then back to the ship to change for another hike, and this time we take the easy option rather than the one up to the ridge (my knees say no no). We hear later that the ridge hike was very strenuous. We see giant prickly pear cacti and the beautiful Galapagos hawk. Sea lions are sprawled all over the beach: I wake one behind a log by accident and he chases me! Sea turtles were hanging out in the surf, waiting for us to leave so they could come ashore. Back at the ship I do hand laundry and have clothes hanging all over the place to dry. DH wisely sends his laundry out.

 

Day Six – Sombrero Chino and Santiago: We start the day with a panga ride and add many bird sightings to our list. We finally see a marine iguana swimming in the ocean, and the tiny Galapagos penguins perched on rocks. The lava rock of Santiago on one side and Sombrero Chino on the other makes for some otherworldly scenery. Another snorkel opportunity allows us to see the penguins swimming under us, catching fish. We also spot reef sharks, a Galapagos shark, marble rays, diamond rays, and a zebra moray eel. The water is cold and we are glad for the wetsuits.

 

During lunch we pass Bainbridge Islet, where the crater is filled with brackish water and lined with pink flamingos. After being in the water for hours, we decide to skip a second off-the-boat swim in favor of a siesta. Soon it’s time to gear up for the lava walk on Santiago. It is a challenging hike requiring good balance and a bit of scrambling over rocks. Once again I am happy for proper hiking boots. We step carefully around the delicate pioneer plants. The sun begins to set and a cool breeze kicks up. We feel like we are on the moon.

 

Day Seven – Genovesa: We start the day with another 6am kayak around Darwin Bay followed by a hearty breakfast. We have a wet landing on a coral beach, and immediately see throngs of lolling sea lions, nesting birds, and mating frigatebirds. We have a short walk over lava rocks and through a shallow lagoon (optional). We are immersed in mating, nesting, hatching, birthing, and nursing, as far as the eye can see, and it is noisy, too! When it gets hot we swim from the small beach until the pangas arrive. Then it is time for our final snorkel, which proves difficult. We must be close to the cliffs to see the fish, but the surf is pushing us into the rocks. Meanwhile, birds nesting in the cliffs are pooping into the water prodigiously. We give it a go, but DH is not enjoying it so we head back to the ship for some long hot showers with lots of soap. We did see lots of urchins and starfish, lobsters, plus some pufferfish and pretty damselfish. We hear that one of the other pangas had a whale sighting.

 

After lunch we have our departure briefing, which makes everyone sad. One passenger, a professional ornithologist, gives a beautiful slide show, and then it’s time to prepare for our last hike. We take Prince Philip’s Steps, a misleading name if I ever heard one, and begin our two-hour hike (Google a photo and you’ll see what I mean). It is an extravaganza of nesting Nazca boobies -- lots of eggs and newborn chicks -- and we see their foot-stomping mating dance. We are on the lookout for owls, and spot one who has just caught a petrel. The view from the cliffs is stunning. Struggling back down the Steps is also a challenge, and I am grateful for the added stability of my hiking poles. The panga is slamming against the rocks and we practically have to jump in as the sky gets darker and darker.

 

Departure: Suitcases have to be out in the hall by 6:30am. After breakfast we depart our room to hang out in the more comfortable lounge until our 8:30 departure to Baltra. We meet up with the other couple taking the Machu Picchu extension. We take the panga to a small pier near the airport which is filled with passengers unloading from the Celebrity Xpedition. We wait ten minutes (in full sun) for the bus, and in five minutes we are at the airport. We’re handed our boarding passes and quickly escorted through security to a private waiting area with water and magazines. From here we will all head to Guayaquil and then go our separate ways. On the 1.5 hour flight we are given a drink and a small snack. Upon arrival, those with later flights like us go to the Hilton for lunch and a swim in the pool. Some who are staying the night are offered a day tour of the city. Later, it’s back to the airport where we will head to Lima and begin the Machu Picchu extension part of our journey. Since that part isn’t a cruise, I won’t discuss it here, but you can email me if you want to hear about it.

 

Recycling: On our last night they put a bin in the lobby for us to dispose of usable things we didn’t want to take home, like clothing, sunscreen, hats, etc. The crew then has an auction and the money they collect for these items goes into a kitty for their parties and shore fun. You can imagine how much sunscreen they must go through. I thought this was a great idea.

 

About the meals: The schedule of the ships in The G is tightly regimented by the park service. As a result, our daily ship schedule didn’t change much. Breakfast always began at 6am and was buffet style. Before 6am there was always coffee, tea, juice, and fruit in the lounge. In the afternoon there were usually cookies on the bar. Lunch began 12:00-12:30 and was also buffet style. A typical lunch would include cheeses, breads, hot chicken and fish, sandwiches, rice, veggies, salads, and dessert. Everything was tasty and healthy and very fresh. The fruits were sweet and delicious. We had a couple specialty lunches like the Ecuadorian one. Dinner was usually at 7:30. This is not five star restaurant nor extravaganza cruise dining, but we enjoyed the food a lot. Because of the heat and our activity level, the lighter fare was just what we needed. NG/Lindblad believes in local sourcing so the fish entrees are incredibly fresh and variable, and we didn’t see much if any beef. At lunch time, we were asked to choose an entrée for dinner by signing up on the chart outside the dining room. There were three choices, one of which was always vegetarian.

 

About the cabin: This is the smallest cabin we’ve ever had, but the stowage is well organized and all our things could be put away. There are a couple drawers in the closet, and small drawers in the nightstand. There is a drawer that locks with a key for valuables. Amazingly there are no room keys, one can only lock the door from the inside when in the cabin. There are two wall hooks for the life vests. There is a two-plug outlet by the desk, and another in the corner by the ledge/shelf. There is overhead space above the headboard. We used all the space. Suitcases go under the bed. The bathroom is miniscule but provides shampoo, bath gel, lotion, and a small clothesline. There is very little storage. Because of the humidity we are glad that we brought quick-drying clothes. There is laundry service available but no dry cleaning. There is a carafe of ice water (refilled often) and reusable water bottles that we must use for the week. No TV, no minibar, no robes. It is the nature of the cruise – an expedition! - that we literally used it only for sleeping, dressing and showering. The bed is comfy and the curtains can be drawn for total darkness. We had the beds configured as a queen, but they can be twins as well. We are glad we packed carefully; everything in our suitcases was used more than once, and my streamlined makeup and hair routine is a necessity in this small space.

 

About room choice: Our room, 303, had the Internet station just outside the window, and despite the two-way glass I always felt people could see inside so we almost always had the curtains drawn. Therefore, I would not choose that room again, even though it was a very quiet location generally. If I had to rank the rooms, I would pick a 400 series cabin first, because I think that deck was the quietest. Second would be 302, 304, or 306 because on the library side there is no throughway to the lounge, so less foot traffic. I would not want to be on 2 with Reception, Dining, and all the panga loading on that deck, though I would take that over not going at all!

 

About the Islander: The ship has lovely wood paneling throughout, and plenty of public places to relax, both quiet and social. There are two covered decks, one aft with hammocks and one up top with tables and chairs near a small bar. There are chaise lounges in the open area forward. The Lounge has a beautiful view aft, plus a steady supply of coffee, juices, and fruit in the morning, and cold drinks and cookies in the afternoon. There is a tiny library that is seldom used (with a rest room that is almost always available). There is a wee fitness center that we couldn’t imagine needing or using. The Dining Room has mostly large tables for communal dining in groups of six or eight, and a handful of two-tops mostly used by the officers who need a quick meal. The stairs between decks are very narrow and very steep. There is Internet available on one computer that I heard said was painfully slow. As to motion, the ship does rock side to side gently, even at anchor. Generally speaking, it is a very comfortable and serviceable ship that has everything you need, but nothing extra or fancy. It provides all the adventure without the hardship.

 

About our fellow passengers: Most are in their 50s or 60s, fit and energetic, all Americans but for one lovely German couple. We have six or seven teens and one small girl about eight, and the crew says that is an unusually high number of children for the Islander. They had a few activities especially for the children, but this was not the family cruise and the tone of the ship definitely skews more adult, I think. For our week the ship was fully booked.

 

About the activities: All ships in The G have to follow park rules and are given permits for specific locations at specific times. The ship has access to that location from either 6am – noon or noon – 6pm. In those six hours they can do one land-based activity and one water-based activity. Land activities were hikes and beach visits. Water activities were snorkeling, kayaking, swimming, going to the beach, and panga rides. Morning activities were usually 8am and 10am, and afternoon ones at 2:30 and 4:30. Because you are on the equator, the sun literally rises at 6am and sets at 6pm every day. Let’s use Floriana for an example. In the morning we hiked to the sea turtle nests, then went snorkeling around Champion Islet. In the afternoon, we took a panga tour, and then landed at Post Office Bay. Lunch is always noonish because that is when the ship has to leave one location for another. For some reason, in some locations we also had an optional 6am outing. One evening there was a local dance and music show, but we were so tired we skipped it. One night we had a barbeque and dancing on the top deck which was a lot of fun.

 

About kayaking: There were four kayak trips offered. The first one was only available to experienced kayakers (which we are). We had to sign up after the first day briefing, and there was a bit of a scramble but we were sitting towards the front so we got spots. They then asked everyone to refrain from signing up again until each person who wanted to had gotten an opportunity to kayak, and explained the schedule for the week. During the week everyone was polite and generous about this, and everyone who wanted to was able to go. In fact, there was enough availability that we were able to go a second time on the last day of the trip. The morning kayaks were at 6am which I think was a deterrent to some, but because we’re from the east coast and the time change worked in our favor, we were always awake and ready to go by then. I have to believe it was also much cooler to go early in the morning.

 

I linked to our pictures in an earlier post, and I'm happy to answer any questions.

[rfbdorf]

Thanks, that was an excellent and very helpful review!

I'm planning to bring Tevas and lightweight hiking boots. Any problems changing from one to the other on the beach?

Can you recommend a bugspray?

- Richard

[Lirio]

Margaret,

 

thanks a lot for your review. We are on August 11th, 2012 at Endeavour. We were eager for information because as you noticed, few comments about this trip at CC.

 

We are from Rio de Janeiro and we leave here. We are used to lot of sun, but not to cold water. How cold is the water in Galapagos? Should we take our own wet suit? Moreover, I am not used to snorkeling, from your review I will start a training right now! There are snorkeling “schools” around here. I will enroll tomorrow!

 

Cheers

[MJC]

Thanks, that was an excellent and very helpful review!

I'm planning to bring Tevas and lightweight hiking boots. Any problems changing from one to the other on the beach?

Can you recommend a bugspray?

- Richard

 

The guides were very explicit in the evening briefings about the terrain and recommended footwear, which was very helpful. Generally you will want one or the other and not need both. On the soft beaches you can usually land barefoot or in your sandals, dry your feet, and put on your shoes. I just tied my boots to my small backpack and carried a plastic bag for my wet shoes. On lava rock landings you can wear your choice and not worry about changing or drying your feet.

 

I'm fifty and have had two knee surgeries, so I like the stability of a proper hiking boot. However, many people wore Tevas or lightweight hiking shoes and were fine. Some wore sneakers and were fine too, but I would recommend something with a bit more traction than that. I also recommend a closed-toe rather than an open-toe sandal. You are the best judge of your own balance and preferences, however.

 

The ship provided walking sticks that were helpful on some of the lava rock hikes.

[MJC]

As to bug spray, anything with DEET is fine. You will either need it desperately, or not at all. It was very expensive to buy on board and it sold out very quickly. If they tell you there are mosquitos, wear a hat and spray everything, even your clothes because some people were being bit through their tshirts. You can leave it behind if you don't use it, the crew will need it at some point.

[MJC]

We are from Rio de Janeiro and we leave here. We are used to lot of sun, but not to cold water. How cold is the water in Galapagos? Should we take our own wet suit? Moreover, I am not used to snorkeling, from your review I will start a training right now! There are snorkeling “schools” around here. I will enroll tomorrow!

 

Hi Lirio,

 

You do not need to bring a wetsuit. They will give you one to use for the whole week, and there is a place on deck where they hang to dry so you don't need to keep it in your room. They also have masks and snorkels, but I prefer my own because I know it fits me very well.

 

A deep water snorkel means you cannot walk on the bottom. You have to jump into the ocean from the panga. Some people are not comfortable with this. I recommend you practice in a deep pool if you have not snorkeled very often. In the Galapagos, the snorkeling is best in deep water and not very good from the beaches, so you will want to prepare so that you can participate in the good snorkeling. It is amazing! You will love it.

 

The water is warm enough for swimming. However, when you snorkel you can be in the water for hours and it can start to feel cold, so I recommend a wetsuit. Also, the sun is very strong at the Equator and you need to protect your skin. The wetsuit can also protect you from the rocks if you get too close. We also brought rash guards as an option but we always chose to wear wetsuits for snorkeling.

 

A few snorkeling tips: most importantly, always swim with a buddy; be sure when you put your mask on that all your hair is off your face, if it gets between the mask and your skin you will not have a good seal and water can come in; if you are a man with thin or no hair on your head, bring something to cover your head (like a bandana) or you will sunburn; try not to use your hands and arms very much, it is better to float quietly and use your legs to move around; finally, if you blow bubbles the sea lions may come over to visit you!

[Lirio]

Margaret,

 

thanks a lot. When I got back I will post a review. i am a woman.

 

Cheers,

Lirio

[Chloe1500]

Thank you, Margaret! Your trip sounds great. Are you going to also discuss the Peru extension? We missed that on our NG/Lindblad Galapagos trip in 2010 because of the flooding. We are going to Peru with a small group tour later this year, so would love to hear your experiences. Thanks.

 

Lirio, I hope I can put your mind at ease somewhat about the deep water snorkeling. We were on the Endeavour in 2010. It was a fantastic trip, and we snorkeled almost everyday, sometimes twice a day, usally in deep water, and twice from the beaches. On the first day of snorkeling, the guides took beginners to a beach for a lesson and practice in calm water. The guides were excellent and always swimming with us and ready to help us if we needed it. The zodiac drivers were always nearby as well, and if we needed to get out, we had a signal for them. If you decide not to snorkel sometimes, the Endeavour has a glass-bottom boat that lets you see the same view -- sea lions, penguins, turtles, iguanas, dolphins...

[MJC]

Hi Chloe,

 

Last spring on our way to Machu Picchu we could still see evidence of the prior year's flood damage. They have done a remarkable job of getting things back together very quickly.

 

I will get my notes together and post some feedback about our trip in Peru. In our travels we have done our own independently organized tours and group ones. I have to say that Lindblad did an amazing job in Peru, and I have never felt so pampered and worry-free. It was definitely on the expensive side, top tier hotels all the way, but you really get your money's worth in other ways as well.

 

If there is one important point I would like to make, it is this. If, like me, seeing Machu Picchu is a lifelong dream, spend the money and stay at the Sanctuary Lodge at the park's gate, or in one of the small hotels in Aguas Calientes. From Cusco it takes the whole morning to get there, so if you only budget one day you really only get the afternoon, and the park closes at 4pm. When we arrived it was raining cats and dogs the whole afternoon, making it very slippery and completely obscuring the famous views. If that was all we had experienced, I would have been very disappointed indeed. The following morning we woke at 6am and hiked to the top, and it was like a dream -- sunny sky, puffy clouds, rainbows! Truly incredible.

 

Of course, we were traveling on the cusp between the wet and the dry seasons, so it was a bit of a gamble. However, you can have rain any day, even in the dry season. In short, try to double your chances of having good weather. JMHO. The worst that can happen is you have two glorious days in Machu Picchu.

[Chloe1500]

Thanksk, Margaret. I'll watch for your review. We are going with Odysseys Unlimited in October, so we will stay in the Sacred Valley and be able to see it as you suggest. So looking forward to that!