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Canon 1100D versus 60D for beginner DSLR user?


katie11

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I am thinking of buying my 1st DSLR camera. I would prefer Canon and because I am just starting out, should I go to the bottom of the range 1100D or learn to use a 60D or 650D. I would appreciate your opinions of what to do.:confused::confused:

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I am in the camp that believes that you should start with a cheap body and buy quality (i.e. expensive) glass. I also like to get good bang for the buck in whatever I buy. At the time, my choices were the T2i (550D) T3i (600D) or the T3 (1100D). I looked at the T2i (550D) and the T3i (600D) and decided that the only differences were the articulated LCD screen and the built in remote flash trigger. Neither of those justified paying the premium.

 

I held the T3 (1100D) and immediately put it back down. I hated how it felt... to some (Nikon owners mostly), the T2i feels cheap, however, the T3 (1100D) feels really cheap...(cheap build, mushy buttons, hard to explain...just pick one up). After doing a quick compare, Im glad I put it down because I also noticed that there were a few other features that would have really bugged me, like the lack of infrared remote shutter release (Im starting to use a tripod more and more and the IR remote is becoming pretty handy, especially for long exposures) and lack of spot metering mode (as a beginner, I didnt know what that was, but its a must for me now). So, I ended up with the T2i (550D).

 

Looking back, I sometimes wonder if I should have spent a bit more money and got the 60D instead. However, if I were going to do that, I would have just spent a little bit more than that and had gone with the 7D.

 

Good luck!

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Here is a link to a site that has indepth comparisons.

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-Digital-SLR-Camera-Reviews.aspx

 

Mostly, I would head to a good camera store with a sales staff that knows their stuff and play with the various models. How the camera feels in your hands is very important.

 

Larry

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I ordered a t4i on Friday. Just got the standard lens kit but I have an old 75-300 USM lens from my old 35 mm Rebel that I'm looking forward to using. I was able to find several inexpensive remotes for it on Amazon. Is there a difference with IR remotes? I'm actually going to save up for a "promote" remote control but that will probably come after the cruise!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I meant a difference between remotes besides the obvious like range, etc... That didn't make sense! The one I have is supposed to zoom, start & stop video and start 2 sec. timer. It was only $4 so I got it in anticipation of my camera. I guess we shall see how well it works!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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All too often, too much emphasis is placed on which camera to buy, when the emphasis should be on the lens.

 

Always buy the best lenses you can.

 

For instance, if you compare a pro-grade lens with a f/2.8 constant aperture vs. a consumer-grade lens with a f/4~5.6 variable aperture, the pro-glass will give you a 1~2 stop advantage.

 

The low light advantage of the 60D over the 1100D, according to DxOMark testing is less than 1/3rd stop. So you gain little. However, if you bought a pro-grade lens instead of a consumer-grade lens, you get a whopping 2 stop advantage.

 

That is equivalent to spending thousands more on a camera to get the same advantage in low light performance.

 

And the pro glass will likely give you more contrast, color depth, sharper optics, less diffraction, and also empty your wallet.

 

But in reality though, spend as much money as you can on your lens, then buy whatever camera that will fit on the lens; almost as an afterthought.

 

Ironically this is exactly the opposite what many first time DSLR buyers do; they get all ga ga on the camera, and begin comparing the infinitesimal differences between the two, and then, they forget about the lens. I know in a few situations, the person has bought the cheapest lens they could buy - almost as an afterthought.

 

Or even worse, they attempt to use an old clunky lens they found on eBay for a different brand camera with an adapter. Yikes!

 

Well, that is all I could afford, they say...

 

Then they complain they spent a lot of money and are disappointed in the results. Fact is, it takes both a camera and a lens to make a good photograph (and of course a knowledgeable photographer), and the best camera in the world with a mediocre lens will result in a mediocre photo.

 

In reality, it's my belief that you should spend more money on your lens than your camera cost. But if you cannot afford to spend a ton of money on a lens, then consider the alternative. Buy a 50mm f/1.8, which for most camera manufacturers is not going to cost a lot, and it will result in great photos.

 

Fact is, the one absolute deal on cost vs. performance benefit is the "nifty fiftys". You will have a fixed prime lens, but that is going to result in better photos than the 18-55mm kit lens that many entry level cameras come with. Yea, you will have to learn to "zoom with your feet", but this is what we all did in the 1970s.

 

And with the 50mm fixed lens, you will learn more about the camera and creative photography due to the f/1.8 than you ever would with a kit lens. It will sort of enforce your need to learn how to use the camera rather than using it as a glorified point & shoot.

 

The good news is that unlike the camera, which will be obsolete in 3yrs, a quality lens will be good for a lifetime and retain as much as 90% of its value in resale.

 

Consumer-grade lenses, on the other hand, and many 3rd party lenses lose their value along with the camera.

 

Look for a lens that if a zoom, is a f/2.8 across the entire zoom range (sometimes called a constant aperture), or if a prime, f/1.4. The only exception is if you get a macro lens; which in that case a prime macro will be f/2.8.

 

Anyway, that is my recommendation...

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All too often, too much emphasis is placed on which camera to buy, when the emphasis should be on the lens.

 

Always buy the best lenses you can.

 

For instance, if you compare a pro-grade lens with a f/2.8 constant aperture vs. a consumer-grade lens with a f/4~5.6 variable aperture, the pro-glass will give you a 1~2 stop advantage.

 

The low light advantage of the 60D over the 1100D, according to DxOMark testing is less than 1/3rd stop. So you gain little. However, if you bought a pro-grade lens instead of a consumer-grade lens, you get a whopping 2 stop advantage.

 

That is equivalent to spending thousands more on a camera to get the same advantage in low light performance.

 

And the pro glass will likely give you more contrast, color depth, sharper optics, less diffraction, and also empty your wallet.

 

But in reality though, spend as much money as you can on your lens, then buy whatever camera that will fit on the lens; almost as an afterthought.

 

Ironically this is exactly the opposite what many first time DSLR buyers do; they get all ga ga on the camera, and begin comparing the infinitesimal differences between the two, and then, they forget about the lens. I know in a few situations, the person has bought the cheapest lens they could buy - almost as an afterthought.

 

Or even worse, they attempt to use an old clunky lens they found on eBay for a different brand camera with an adapter. Yikes!

 

Well, that is all I could afford, they say...

 

Then they complain they spent a lot of money and are disappointed in the results. Fact is, it takes both a camera and a lens to make a good photograph (and of course a knowledgeable photographer), and the best camera in the world with a mediocre lens will result in a mediocre photo.

 

In reality, it's my belief that you should spend more money on your lens than your camera cost. But if you cannot afford to spend a ton of money on a lens, then consider the alternative. Buy a 50mm f/1.8, which for most camera manufacturers is not going to cost a lot, and it will result in great photos.

 

Fact is, the one absolute deal on cost vs. performance benefit is the "nifty fiftys". You will have a fixed prime lens, but that is going to result in better photos than the 18-55mm kit lens that many entry level cameras come with. Yea, you will have to learn to "zoom with your feet", but this is what we all did in the 1970s.

 

And with the 50mm fixed lens, you will learn more about the camera and creative photography due to the f/1.8 than you ever would with a kit lens. It will sort of enforce your need to learn how to use the camera rather than using it as a glorified point & shoot.

 

The good news is that unlike the camera, which will be obsolete in 3yrs, a quality lens will be good for a lifetime and retain as much as 90% of its value in resale.

 

Consumer-grade lenses, on the other hand, and many 3rd party lenses lose their value along with the camera.

 

Look for a lens that if a zoom, is a f/2.8 across the entire zoom range (sometimes called a constant aperture), or if a prime, f/1.4. The only exception is if you get a macro lens; which in that case a prime macro will be f/2.8.

 

Anyway, that is my recommendation...

 

^ excellent advice! I would skip the 1100D. The 550d is not much more these days and IMO something you will not outgrow as fast. The 550d/600d/60d/7d all have the same sensors so mostly the differences are in features including AF systems among other things. In other words, using the same lens under the same conditions, you probably could not tell the difference in the photos. The t4i/650d has a new hybrid sensor and processor and a new AF system. Despite its name, I feel like its an upgrade to the 60d as opposed to the t3i. I would probably get that before I got the 60d IMO. All that being said, like mentioned above, I would spend the money on glass instead of the body. Good glass holds its value way more than any body, and if you have good glass you can always upgrade the body down the road when you fell limited by it.

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Just be aware tha that DSLRs over 4 years old only have good IQ up to around ISO 800, whereas most new DSLRs have good quality up to ISO 12,400. That allows the use of a new body with a slower f4.5/5.6 kit lens for indoor photos.

 

Still, I agree and would go with a lower price new body and a high quality f2.8 zoom over the high priced body with the kit zoom.

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All kinds of good advice here, but the most important would be the advice about top quality glass. That said , I don't think I'd recommend going out and buying a pro lens until you've used the camera for a while.There are many choices of lenses to buy, but until you decide what type of photography you will be doing most often it would be hard to tell you which of those very expensive lenses would be the best fit.

 

I shoot with a 30D and the 60D, plus I have 3 Canon "L" lenses, and have nothing but great things to say about the image quality. Even with my non "L" lenses I have no complaints at all.

 

P.S. If you do get a Canon body, by all means pick up the inexpensive nifty fifty as mentioned before.

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Just be aware tha that DSLRs over 4 years old only have good IQ up to around ISO 800, whereas most new DSLRs have good quality up to ISO 12,400. That allows the use of a new body with a slower f4.5/5.6 kit lens for indoor photos.

 

Still, I agree and would go with a lower price new body and a high quality f2.8 zoom over the high priced body with the kit zoom.

 

Thank you so much for your helpful information, Bruce. I have decided to buy a Canon 650D with a single 18-55 IS lens to start with.

Do you think I have made the right choice?

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Bruce. I have decided to buy a Canon 650D with a single 18-55 IS lens to start with.

Do you think I have made the right choice?

 

Absolutely! You will have yourself a great tool as you learn the art of photography. Just a word of warning. Once you buy a DSLR the spending never stops. It will be tripods, flashes, filters, remote shutter releases, camera bags and more lenses. It probably will not be too long before you decide you want another lens to reach what your first lens does not.

You now have the tool and it is all up to you. Practice often and take advantage of all the different advice available on the web. One piece of advice I would offer is do not spend too much time using that camera in one of it's automatic modes. Learn what the creative modes can do and experiment with them. I do almost all of my shooting in either AV or manual. We will look forward to seeing some of your results.

 

Here is a great site that will be invaluable to you.

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/index.php?

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Absolutely! You will have yourself a great tool as you learn the art of photography. Just a word of warning. Once you buy a DSLR the spending never stops. It will be tripods, flashes, filters, remote shutter releases, camera bags and more lenses. It probably will not be too long before you decide you want another lens to reach what your first lens does not.

You now have the tool and it is all up to you. Practice often and take advantage of all the different advice available on the web. One piece of advice I would offer is do not spend too much time using that camera in one of it's automatic modes. Learn what the creative modes can do and experiment with them. I do almost all of my shooting in either AV or manual. We will look forward to seeing some of your results.

 

Here is a great site that will be invaluable to you.

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/index.php?

Thanks Bruce, your help is invaluable.

I have joined the forum, just waiting for a clarification email from them.

Is there a difference between the 650D and the t4i Rebel. I see some cameras have t4i on the camera, and others 650D.

Sorry to show my ingorance, but I find it a bit confusing.

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Thanks Bruce, your help is invaluable.

I have joined the forum, just waiting for a clarification email from them.

Is there a difference between the 650D and the t4i Rebel. I see some cameras have t4i on the camera, and others 650D.

Sorry to show my ingorance, but I find it a bit confusing.

 

There is no ignorance involved katie. The T4i is the model name used in North America, but they are the same cameras. Feel free to ask any questions you might have. Happy shooting!

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There is no ignorance involved katie. The T4i is the model name used in North America, but they are the same cameras. Feel free to ask any questions you might have. Happy shooting!

Thanks for that, Bruce. Now to start the learning process, it's good of you to offer help and I'll probably take you up on that offer if I get in to strife. Thanks also for the link to the forums. We leave in 3 weeks for our cruise to China. I can't wait to see how my photography improves with the new camera.

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Thanks for that, Bruce. Now to start the learning process, it's good of you to offer help and I'll probably take you up on that offer if I get in to strife. Thanks also for the link to the forums. We leave in 3 weeks for our cruise to China. I can't wait to see how my photography improves with the new camera.

 

That looks like a fantastic cruise! Just remember to put the camera down once in a while and just enjoy the cruising experience.

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That looks like a fantastic cruise! Just remember to put the camera down once in a while and just enjoy the cruising experience.

No worries, Bruce. We are really looking forward to this cruise and will enjoy to the hilt. Just hoping that the smog will have cleared in Beijing by then, so I'll have some good photo's to add to my collection. I'll post them for your perusal when we get back.

Once again thanks to you and everyone else for your help.:):)

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Thanks for that, Bruce. Now to start the learning process, it's good of you to offer help and I'll probably take you up on that offer if I get in to strife. Thanks also for the link to the forums. We leave in 3 weeks for our cruise to China. I can't wait to see how my photography improves with the new camera.

 

This is a great learning tool....a must read for a beginner in my opinion.

http://www.amazon.com/Understanding-Exposure-3rd-Edition-Photographs/dp/0817439390/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1360809765&sr=8-1&keywords=understanding+exposure

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