Prinsendam 2006 Circle of the Sun, About to begin...

[Ides of March]

Days 75 to 78 At Sea

After leaving Salalah we sailed westward through the Gulf of Aden along the Yemeni coast with a military escort off our starboard side. We entered the Red Sea through the Gate of Tears quite close to the Somalia Coast which we tried not to think about. After passing through islands on each side there was not much to see in the Red Sea for the next few days other than oil rigs and passing ships. The only memorable moment other than our two trivia wins, was that we had our first formal dinner since Mumbai where a quayside tailor was offering a great deal on made to measure silver brocade dinner jackets. As one gentleman stepped out of the elevator wearing his new creation of elegant drapery he was paned to discover that at least a dozen others were wearing the identical garment looking for all the world like they had attended the same Liberace estate sale. They spent the balance of the evening avoiding each other which thankfully minimized the strobe effect.

Day 76 Suez Canal

We arrived at the mouth of the canal at 10 p.m. the night before and anchored while our documents were reviewed overnight. At 6 a.m. we set out in a convoy of about 10 ships on our northward journey with the beloved Prinsendam occupying the second spot behind a rusting United States Marine Services vessel that our American friends particularly the ex Navy types were a little ashamed of. If it deteriorates further I'm sure Canada will buy it.

Transiting the canal was a wonderful experience in that it was like a boat tour through the desert. Heavy dredging has created large berms or dunes on each side which are excavated periodically to give access to the canal. There is a soldier complete with machine-gun every hundred yards stationed on the dunes and facing the canal usually sporting blue helmets denoting UN peacekeepers. They always seem to be watching us begging the question whether they were protecting ships in the canal or the canal from us ships. Very friendly and they would wave and whistle at us all the way along. Floating Bailey bridges that could be deployed to stop traffic in times of war were every few miles and it was certainly the heaviest military presence I have ever witnessed.

On the African side to port there was considerable irrigation and agriculture which contrasted sharply with the endless rolling desert on the Asian side to starboard. We crossed Little Bitter Lake and Great Bitter Lake where we began to see resorts and palatial villas enjoyed by the wealthy of Cairo. Periodically there would be large cities such as Ismalia where a very impressive new bridge spans the canal supported by towering pylons. Shortly past that point the canal branches into two channels and the ships that were in the southbound convoy waiting for us to pass appeared to be sailing in the sand. Quite a stunning visual effect. We passed a WWI monument commemorating the defense of the canal and later saw a monument commemorating the 1973 Egyptian reclaiming of the Sinai from Israel. It is a sculpture of the working end of a bayonet mounted on a gun barrel which our Jewish friends tell us is a Kalashnikov rifle because of the Russian backing Egypt enjoyed before Nixon moved in and stalemated the whole operation.

We made great time never having to stop as did the oncoming traffic and were in the Med at Port Said by about 4:30 p.m.. All in all a most interesting and enjoyable day as we had perfect weather, an educationional experience, and all the amenities The Good Ship Lollipop provides.

Day 80 Alexandria. Giza, Cairo and the Nile

Up in on the bus by 7 a.m. and away by 7:40 by the time everything got organized. We were again in a convoy with machine-gun toting guards riding ahead and an armed guard on each bus carrying a more subtle weapon the size of the large grapefruit under his jacket. This was very comforting and I'm sure no one wondered what would happen if the guard turned out to be a fanatic. Bypassing the marshy surroundings of Alexandria which some initially mistook for the Nile Delta, we drove the three hours through the desert to Cairo. At times the scenery was bleak but large tracts of irrigated farmland provided gorgeous green vistas periodically. I slept most of the way.

Entering Cairo, we took a ring road to bring us downtown and passed miles of uncompleted redbrick housing projects that were quite amazing. These six to eight story buildings had laundry hanging from balconies but no doors or windows in the units. The upper floor was invariably lacking a roof so logs were laid across and covered with fronds to provide shade for the inhabitants. Between the buildings there were huge piles of rubble and garbage creating a most uninviting atmosphere. It was certainly a high-end slum and by that I mean that in India and Africa the slums were cobbled from whatever scrap material could be found but in this case considerable capital must have been expended to erect the shells of the buildings begging the question why the plug was pulled which I never got a satisfactory answer to.

We arrived at Giza and did a panoramic tour of the Pyramids stopping at a parking lot about a kilometer away for photographs. There were very aggressive vendors everywhere, tourists galore and camel jockeys offering photo ops. We were cautioned never to pay before you went up on a camel, the going rate being one dollar, as they would then demand $20 or more to bring you down. I remember hearing of an experience my cousin Lynne M had many years ago being slugged in the jaw when she refused such an extortion attempt so I was loaded for bear and ready to defend against injustice wherever I found it but it was never necessary as you could usually give them whatever you wanted ignoring requests for more. Stand down Tonto.

We then went over to the big fellow, The Great Pyramid of Cheops, aka Khufu for a closer look. They really are very impressive structures particularly up close (duh) but have clearly seen better days as the limestone weathers and erodes. At least they haven't been attacked by acid rain as much as have our Parliament Buildings also constructed of limestone because of their drier climate. The big attraction here was to enter the Pyramid’s inner central chamber which is 30 m below ground level and is a large room with a vaulted ceiling some 150 m high. The lineup for the passageway that leads to to the chamber was about 100 m long and took 10 minutes to clear. One then descended down steps to a ridiculously small door which I presumed lead to a larger passage. Wrong.

Having left our forbidden cameras with the mildly claustrophobic Grux who had the good sense not to even attempt an entry, I followed Robin and Mary who are athletic and agile and who quickly disappeared from sight. I proceeded down the narrow tunnel which was 36 inches wide, 42 inches high and sloped downward at a 30° angle. There were metal covered 2" x 2" crosspieces on the ramp every 2 1/2 feet. Now I am 75 inches high and about as flexible as a soda cracker so to say it was uncomfortable trying to walk down with my head below my butt and both my hat and back scraping along the roof while lifting my legs over the crosspieces so that my knees kept hitting my chin is an understatement. After 50 to 75 feet of this (which seemed like 2 miles) when stopping to let those ascending squeeze by me, I noticed that the air was getting thinner and hotter. It was then that I was struck with the revelation that this may be one of the dumbest things I had ever attempted. I am told by those following that I uttered a profanity to signal my change of direction and started up, which I had been told was easier than going down. Wrong again.

Although my head and butt had achieved a somewhat more normal orientation, I now had to lift my legs up and over those damn crosspieces. By pulling on the two handrails I could make upward progress but of course had to stop when meeting oncoming traffic whereupon some idiot on my tailpipe would continually urge me to keep moving. Try as I might I could not summon a bout of flatulence to silence him. I eventually emerged soaked with sweat and panting but recovered after a short rest in the shade.

Grux, Robin and Mary walked entirely around the pyramid but I took a more direct line back to the bus stopping to take pictures of Don and Alice while she sat atop a camel. Don had agreed to one dollar for a picture of Alice beside the beast but the operator soon had her in the saddle and 10 feet in the air. When she got off he demanded $40 but Don simply gave him five and walked away without consequence. This is understandable as few people would want to tangle with Don but I wonder what might have happened to those with a lesser physical presence.

On to the Sphinx and the Temple at its base. The poor old guy (gal?) has also had a hard time of it and is missing a good portion of nose. A facelift is in progress so there was scaffolding below the chin which didn't detract all that much from the overall effect. It was a little smaller than I had envisioned but still very impressive especially when viewed with the pyramid behind as it is normally shown.

On leaving Giza we drove into downtown Cairo for our Nile luncheon boat cruise. The city of Cairo is a pretty dismal place consisting primarily of nondescript poorly maintained concrete buildings sprouting air conditioners and satellite dishes on their spalling walls and laundry laden balconies. Little colour or life. Automobiles of every vintage compete with donkey and ox carts on the streets. There is a fair bit of garbage and rubble everywhere and the open fronted stores are not inviting as they certainly were in India and Africa. Our tour guide had told us of the crowds and traffic to be encountered which she said would make a lasting impression but she has clearly never been to Mumbai as this was very tame in comparison. We boarded a very nice boat on the Nile in the center of the city and were served a great lunch, the humus being the best we have had since Wa’al’s mom left Ottawa. The entertainers on board were very good although most of their repertoire was western pop but they did get Grux and Mary up dancing with the very beautiful and petite female vocalist to an Arabic tune with a pleasing melody.

The view along the muddy Nile was pretty mundane consisting essentially of high-rise banks, hotels and office buildings although there were a few beautiful villas housing consulates and the very wealthy including we were told a prince or two. Beautiful carpets were hanging over the balcony railings to air on one palatial estate. We were accompanied closely by a big plywood tub of a police boat that seemed to be giving directions to our captain as to when to turn and the like. When a boat pulled alongside and a fellow attempted to do acrobatic tricks for our amusement he was quickly chased off by the cops. I can’t see those clowns being a deterrent to a serious threat so I assume that most of the visable security is there to reassure the tourists more than anything else.

After a few hours on the Nile we were back on the bus for the three-hour drive to the ship which I was again thankfully able to sleep through. Those who stayed in Alexandria had a wonderful time visiting museums, souks, perfumeries and mingling with the locals who by all accounts were the most friendly and accommodating hosts we have encountered to date. It's a real shame now that it has been confirmed that we will not be going to Libya (as they will not permit Americans entry for short-term visits, much to the dismay of the jarheads on board) that HAL could not have extended our stay in Alexandria for an extra day or two so that we could have experienced two cities, each was something special to offer.

All in all it was a generally pleasurable day with but one truly unpleasant moment but incredibly memorable as the day we first experienced some of the seven wonders of the ancient world.

We won trivia today (3 of the last 5) and have been advised that if we continue to win we might replace the Canams as the most disliked team on board. A great way to rationalize future losses.

We are now traveling north to our next stop in Turkey tomorrow. It's in the low 60s and with the wind across the deck it feels like winter again. We then have a day at sea to view the solar eclipse, a shore day, a sea day and then six ports in a row. I believe we have something like 11 ports in 13 days so I will have to make these postings much more to the point if I am to keep them relatively current.

I will post Wednesday after Antalya and will try to call home Tuesday (late morning there) and so…

Until thet time

Ides

[lizf]

Ides and Gruxy- We really loved your descriptions and photos of Egypt. The two photos I appreciated the most, other than the Suez transit, are the two of you with the pyramids in the background and Ides starting his journey into the pyramid. How wonderful to have the two reports for comparison. His for the descritions and hers for the wonderful photo experiences too. Thank you both again and again. I have never seen a white camel but have seen lots of the common brown ones in northern Kenya. Were you able to get a picture of one for us? Liz and DH

[WCB]

Hello Grux and Ides,

 

Having done the 2005 World Cruise, we are re-living our experiences through your excellent postings! We are looking forward to joining the 2007 World Cruise on the Amsterdam.

 

We would like to be able to read Grux's blog, but do not have the website. Can anyone help us with that?

 

Happy sailing!

 

Bill & Mary Ann

[Ides of March]

For newbies out there, Grux’s blog is

Http:// travelblog.org/bloggers/gruxy

If that doesn’t work go back to Pirate Scum’s post as he gives it properly.

Ides

[Old As Dirt Mom]

For newbies out there, Grux’s blog is

Http:// travelblog.org/bloggers/gruxy

If that doesn’t work go back to Pirate Scum’s post as he gives it properly.

 

Ides

 

Here's a direct link:

http://www.travelblog.org/Bloggers/Gruxy/

[letsgonow]

"After 50 to 75 feet of this (which seemed like 2 miles) when stopping to let those ascending squeeze by me, I noticed that the air was getting thinner and hotter. It was then that I was struck with the revelation that this may be one of the dumbest things I had ever attempted."

 

I was so glad to read about your trip into the pyramid, as I did the exact same thing on my visit. That tunnel is not made for anyone over five feet tall!

[Ides of March]

Day 82 Antalya Turkey

For some unexplained reason Grux had us up at 6:30 a.m. for an 8:30 a.m. departure with The Howard and the group he had put together for the days festivities. I was really groggy as I had again suffered a reoccurring nightmare that I had been found guilty of tax evasion and sentenced to six to 10 years as a dance host on a cruise ship. I spent a fitful night drafting my appeal brief on the constitutional grounds that such was cruel and unusual punishment which a collection of fine watches did not mitigate.

Sail in was very pleasant as the town is framed by a backdrop of the beautiful jagged Toros mountains with higher snowcapped peaks in the distance. Shades of Ushuaia. The wharf and town are modern and spotlessly clean as tourism increases to vie with agriculture. There are numerous companies such as Dragon Yachts on the pier running impeccably maintained ketches and yawls in the 50 to 70 foot range that offer weeklong tours along the coast where one can explore caves, ruins and combine it with snorkeling on coral reefs. I would like to return for such purpose someday.

Our tour guide, Eddie, whose real name is very difficult to pronounce and doesn't sound anything like Eddie had planned a full day of activities commencing with a 1 1/2 hour ride to see an ancient fishing village complete with ruins but this was quickly vetoed after a straw poll that was moved by the Grux and seconded by Robin. We therefore opted to visit the nearby ruins at Perge. (Purr-Gay). Now I have seen Ephesus, Pompeii, and Detroit so I am quite familiar with ruins but I did not wish to ruin the experience for the others so I went along, as if I had a choice. We arrived at a parking lot where there were about a hundred tour buses as people have come from around the world to view the eclipse. There was one large group from Canada who were on a two-week bus tour.

Roman columns supporting nonexistent roofs proliferated and we marveled at the ancient underground sewage system, steam baths and toilets. It was challenging to take a photograph without a tourist in it. We then departed Perge-tory as I dubbed it and headed for the next ruin at Aspendos. We encountered a like number of tour buses there but did have a very good time in the Roman theater that is reputedly the best preserved of its ilk in the world. It is still used today for concerts and the acoustics are so superb that electronic enhancement is not necessary. The story goes that the emperor of the day promised his daughter in marriage to the one who would create the greatest monument to his rule. The prize provisionally went to a fellow who designed and built the nearby aqueduct but the architect of the theater invited the ruler to have a final tour and when the boss reached the highest row, the architect on stage whispered that the prize should really go to him and of course prevailed whereupon water to the theater was disconnected.

When I was on the top row sitting beside The Howard, I could clearly hear Grux on stage asking where I was notwithstanding the high level of ambient noise. One lady sang Ode to Joy. in German and when everyone shut up to listen, the clarity of sound was remarkable. When she received a thundering round of applause, the noise of the clapping also had an ethereal quality to it. These were my type of ruins and I really enjoyed this experience. We then bused over to the nearby aqueduct which was ho-hum but Grux got to walk in the orange groves and we shared a glass of juice from fruit rate off the tree which tasted like candy and which I haven't enjoyed since my aunt and uncle sold their place in Florida with the orange trees in the backyard. Delicious.

We then bused into town and visited the Duden waterfalls which plummet 40 m into the ocean. There is a beautiful park with restaurants beside the falls and it was most enjoyable. The Howard returned to the bus with pita and other foodstuffs given to him by the locals. He is so inquisitive and friendly that he has ingratiated himself with people throughout this voyage so no one was surprised.

We then went to the statue of Atatürk, the founder of modern Turkey and had three hours to tour the old town with its shops and restaurants which is located on a steep hillside ending in a lovely marina. There is a clock tower at the top beside a marvelous mosaiced minaret tower from which the periodic Moslem prayers are broadcast. It was neat to browse the shops in such an atmosphere although the featured vocalist on this day sounded like he was passing a kidney stone. I enjoyed a Donar, or pita sandwich but because they used chicken, Grux passed. The best merchandise we saw were hand-painted leather purses and wallets which were expensive but very well-made. We made minor purchases of wine and fresh Turkish Delight candy rolls which are scrumptious.

Back to the bus and the ship by 6:30 p.m. where we collapsed until dinner and sail away.

We have loved our previous visits to Turkey and today's experience did not disappoint. It was very enjoyable but not particularly memorable as we have experienced similar outings in the past. A return to partake of coastal cruising on a small sailing vessel isa distinct possibility.

Day 83 Total Solar Eclipse.

This particular solar eclipse was total within a band 100 miles wide and I believe running from Northeast to Southwest. It of course would be partial outside of that band for a few hundred miles each way. We sailed Southwest out of Antalya to assume a position a few hundred miles offshore and dead center in the total band. A Costa Cruise ship also owned by Carnival positioned itself 7 miles ahead also on the centerline and there were numerous small boats out and about. The water temperature has dropped from 85°F in the Red Sea to 65°F in the Med and so the wind across the deck is much cooler and jackets are pretty much required outside. There was high scattered wispy clouds in the area but the Good Captain found a hole and kept it between us and the sun giving a perfect observation opportunity. The partial eclipse began at about 12:30 p.m. and we were all out on deck observing it through the special viewers that HAL provided, essentially thick sheets of cardboard with a double-sided mirror mounted in the center. A great chance to have lunch and socialize.

We noticed it getting cooler as we proceeded to totality and when it first occurred we saw the spectacular diamond ring effect where there was a Corona or white band around the moon and a bright pinpoint on the leading edge shining like a glowing gem. We experience the same thing as totality finished. It got a little dimmer near the start of totality and we were told that a shadow would move across the ocean but as it was traveling at about 150,000 mph, you couldn’t really see it and it was more like someone turning off the lights. It got noticeably cooler instantaneously as we lost the radiative energy of the sun and we had four eerie minutes in semidarkness. The Corona around the moon did give some illumination but it was only marginally brighter than a night with a full moon. Everyone was so busy taking pictures of the Corona and each other that you had to concentrate on actually looking at the phenomena when it was viewable with the naked eye without a risk of corneal damage. Suddenly the lights came on and equally suddenly everyone dispersed. I stuck around on the deserted decks and watched it through the viewer until completion which I took to be 3:05 p.m.(7:05 am EST) but which those watching on a pinhole camera apparatus one astronomer had on deck told me was actually 3:08 p.m. before the last sliver disappeared.

I have been totally eclipsed on past occasions, some even involving the sun but I particularly enjoyed this one primarily due to the build up and hype it received on board. The fact that we had the viewers and could watch the whole process and not just the total phase as I recall doing in the past made it quite special. The fact that there were no birds around to go silent and flee to the trees which apparently happens on land was of minor consequence. To me it was a curiosity but many made this trip or came to this area with other tours just for this experience. Unanticipated bonus, at least for me.

Kusadasi Turkey tomorrow and then a sea day before Crete and the beginning of the back-to-back port marathon that signifies the beginning of the the stretch run to home. Hard to believe there is only about three weeks left but I'm strangely anxious to get back to the real world yet will be sorry to see this odyssey end. Hello to Vicky who will soon see our 8000 plus photographs wheather she wants to or not. I will post again on Friday and so…

Until that time

Ides

[Grumpy1]

While we were on the 2005 World Voyage, we got the brochures for the 2006 Circle of the Sun. There was a quick mention of the total eclipse and I was really tempted. I remember one from years ago that was about 90% and some that were less than that. To be on the Prinsendam and observe a total... does it get any better? Kudos to HAL for having the foresight to plan the cruise around that event.

 

We're still enjoying riding along with you, Ides. It doesn't seem possible that so much of the world has slipped past your bow in the last 83 days.

 

So what are you planning for a shore excursion in Fort Lauderdale? Or is that your disembarkation port?

[Chupa Cabras]

Ides of March, my mom is on the same cruise!! Actually, she joined the cruise in Mumbai, and will be flying out of Barcelona instead of staying on the ship across the Atlantic.

 

Thank you for this thread. It gives me an idea of what her trip is like and what kinds of things she might be doing.

[Ides of March]

Day 84 Kusadasi Turkey

This is the first of our fill in ports to compensate for missing Libya and is one that the Grux and the writer visited September last as part of our practice cruise on Celebrity’s Horizon. I was therefore not forced to go to Ephesus a second time and we decided just to fully enjoy Kusadasi which we loved in the brief time we had passed in it previously. We thus enjoyed a leisurely morning aboard ship and were only the fifth passengers off the boat when the ramp went down.

We walked through the deserted town where tourists were shoulder to shoulder on our last visit while merchants were opening their shops at around 8:45 a.m.. The tourist season doesn't even begin here until April 1 and although we were unscheduled until a few days ago, they had received word that we were coming and were frantically dusting and arranging their wares for this unexpected bonus of premature sheep. As Grux and I were on our own we decided to vacate the tourist section and selected a narrow side street that departed vertically from the main drag up a mountain to God knew where. Within a few hundred feet we were in an area that does not cater to tourists and enjoyed watching the locals consume pastries and small coffee's while devouring their morning paper.

My last haircut was about eight weeks ago so moss was starting to grow on my bald spot due to the shade cast by my fringe and I had vowed not to revisit the “salon” on board which wouldn't know a Playboy from a Sports Illustrated having never experienced either. I therefore decided to chance a local barber and ended up having one of the most memorable 45 minutes of this trip. The young barber first wet me down with a lavender type scented spray and then proceeded to do three passes with the scissors after each of which I figured I was done. We hadn't even started. When he had me in the “roughed out” stage he then took a straight razor and pressed it against the comb which he used to sculpt fine finishing details on the donut that constitutes my follicley active region.

He then took clippers and sheared my neck which he then polished with his straight razor. Next came the “piece de resistance” where he took what looked to be an 8 inch Q-Tip, dipped it in alcohol and lit it, approaching me with a grin saying ”Chicken Kebob”. He used this flaming torch to singe the hairs in and on my ears and in my nostrils as well as high on my cheekbones while using his hand to protect my eyes. No pain was experienced although the crackling of little hairs particularly in the ears was novel. Believe it or not he was not done yet and pulled out a big cotton batten ball which he proceeded to attack with a comb capturing filaments near the base of the teeth. When the comb was suitably loaded with cotton he asked me if I wanted gel and when I declined he soaked the cotton in some undisclosed liquid and combed me out one final time. He finally sprayed me with some form of Cologne which stayed cool and tingling for hours but made the Grux gag. All of the foregoing cost six lire or about four dollars however I tipped lavishly for both the experience and the best haircut I've ever had. Grux is an avid reader of Travelers Tales, an excellent series recounting the experiences of wanderers in different countries and recalls one segment where the reporter says the first thing he does in Turkey is to go for a haircut and shave because it is such a sensual experience. Had I known, I would have cultivated a three-day growth to experience the full effect.

We proceeded through residential areas where the locals live in high-rises of various degrees of maintenance and where there is new construction each block. They use 3” diameter logs to support the platforms on which they pour the floor slabs as they go up to 10 stories or more. I wouldn’t have thought that possible. After we had circled a park on the top of the mountain that features the statue of Atatürk, the father of modern Turkey, who looks down benevolently on his subjects in town we descended to the ocean and walked out on the causeway to Pigeon Island which features a large fort housing a restaurant that had not yet opened for the season. The views from around the island were lovely and we stopped for a Turkish coffee which on the advice of fellow passengers we let sit for five minutes so that the sludge of grounds could settle to the bottom. It was delicious if you didn't drink the bottom quarter. It was sunny and 60°F and would have been perfect except that the Prinsendam docked about 500 yards away sounded like it was hosting a blacksmith convention with incessant hammering on metal and spewing black smoke from its generators. We certainly contributed both air and noise pollution to what would otherwise have been a pristine setting.

Back to the ship after a stop at the duty-free to drop off the morning's purchases and then out again to walk the other way along the beach looking for the Friday market which I was not optimistic of finding as this was Thursday. Eventually we ascended another mountain and walked back towards the town. A little girl in her school uniform carrying a bouquet of Turkish tulips presented one to the Grux who promptly asked for a picture to the delight of both. Tulips come from Turkey and were brought to the Netherlands way back by the Dutch ambassador of the day. Because Ottawa gave shelter to Queen Julianna during WWII zand Queen Beatrix was born there, the Dutch givetens of thousands of bulbs each year to our fair city and we have a festival in May as a result. Probably the most beautiful town in the world for those few weeks. We therefore bought a lot of Tulip merchandise as we like the symmetry.

We entered the touristy market area from the rear and spent the balance of the afternoon shopping and unsuccessfully bargaining for yet another carpet. We stopped for a replenishing donar and beer but made the mistake of biting into thin green peppers that look like green beans that were sitting on the table eventually recovering some feeling in our lips about 45 minutes later. After living with the very bland food offered on ship, our defenses to something with zip in it are clearly down.

We pushed it to the last minute and boarded the ship at 5:15 for a 6 p.m. sail away. Little Scotland is now fully replenished with sufficient covey's of Famous Grouse to maintain altitude until Lauderdale.

As before in Kusadasi and as in general in Turkey, today was immensely enjoyable and reasonably memorable to boot as it was great being on our own and not seen another tourist for over 3 1/2 hours.

Tomorrow Crete and I can only promise to post when I can and so..

Until that time

Ides

[localady]

Ides-

Thank you so much for another fine day with you on your world travels!

When we get to Turkey I will recommend DH get a hair cut!!:cool:

[Grumpy1]

Another fascinating account, Ides. It is interesting that sometimes the simplest things turn out to be the most memorable. Returning to Turkey for a haircut every 6 weeks is going to get a bit expensive though...

[Margie_Lady]

Thank you for sharing your journey with us. I am sure that I am not the only one who is sitting silently in the background, logging on almost daily to see what new adventures have befallen you. Gruxy, thank you also for sharing your journey and photos.

 

If you think of it when you see Johnny I or Craig L, say Hi from Jen's Mum in Vancouver.

[Grumpy1]

Margie Lady, is Jen still on the dam ships or has she moved on to another career? She really helped, along with the other ACD's, to make our cruise so memorable. Give her a BIG HUG from Grumpy and Slinkie... we miss her.

[Margie_Lady]

Jen is now off the ships and working as the event coordinator for a local childrens' charity. Her HAL organizational training, plus the all-important socializing skills are serving her well. I'll pass on your greetings.

 

I'm looking forward to being able to follow your adventures on your next world cruise. Aren't we all lucky that so many HAL cruisers are willing to spend their precious cruise time (plus valuable Internet minutes) to take us all along with them?

[RuthC]

Marj, I do hope you and Jen will understand it if I say I'm so sorry to read that! HAL's loss is her new employer's gain.

I hope she is happy in whatever she chooses to do in this life; I know she will be successful. Please, give her my best wishes. :)

[Ides of March]

Day 85 Iraklion, Crete Greece

Another sunny day with the temperature around 60°F. Perfect. The plan was to simply walk around the town also known as Heraklion with Robin and Mary but as usual everything was changed and nobody told me. We picked up two extra couples and Robin rented a nine passenger van which he drove. He's a pretty good wheelman having driven getaway cars in his youth. The van took a half-hour to arrive so I browsed the erotic calendars in the magazine shop. My favorite showed a bunch of lads having fun in the shower on its cover. The displayed equipment in such literature and on playing cards differs considerably from what you see on statues. Probably trying to save on marble.

We drove along the coast through rocky hills for about 40 minutes and arrived at Agios Nikolaos which is a small fishing village with a pretty harbour from which radiates tourist trap lined streets going up the mountain. There is also a little inlet or lake where Athena was known to swim occasionally. Early-season and most places were just getting ready to open so we didn't stay long. We then drove around St. Nikoalas Bay looking for his church. He's the same guy that Santa is patterned on. We ended up driving down a footpath at water's edge and the others then climbed a series of steps where they viewed the foundation of what might have been a church at one time. Success was declared although no one is sure of exactly what they saw.

We then drove through the rugged mountains inland where the ubiquitous olive groves turned to budding vines. Quite a beautiful drive up the switchbacks with lots of stops for photographs. Probably the best part of an otherwise mundane day. The wineries were all closed when we arrived so we headed for a taverna for lunch. Of course we picked one in the middle of a little town where they were using a jackhammer next-door, the motorcycles driving by were deafening and most of the menu items including the gyro which I had looked forward to all morning was unavailable. I had a lousy lunch but the Grux enjoyed her sampler plate and the others all had pizza.

Back to Iraklion where we drove around looking for the old town and finally drove through the ancient brick walls to discover we had just left the old town. Back in to view the fountain featuring four lions regurgitant and then back to the ship where I passed out until 9:30 p.m. when I awoke as Grux was ordering from room service.

Crete although technically a Greek island in my opinion doesn't even come close to the other three we have visited in the past namely Santorini, Mikanos, and Rhodes so I was a little disappointed. The day was pleasant at times but not in the least memorable.

Day 86 Athens

This was the second of our fill in ports and as we had been here in September and as I really disliked it then I seriously considered staying on the boat to watch The Incredibles on TV. When we were last here, it was oppressively hot, the air was so polluted that having a cigarette constituted a breath of fresh air, and there seemed to be more tourists than locals. We had taken a tour that only stopped at a restaurant below the Parthenon where we looked up at it framed between construction cranes. This time the Grux planned to climb up to it with Robin and Mary and Gary and Joan and as it was only a short subway ride away from the harbour I decided at the last minute to go along. Finally a good decision.

It was a Saturday, again 60°F and sunny with only a very slight haze. A completely different town on this day. We disembarked in the Plata area right below the Acropolis or high hill and made the climb at a leisurely pace to accommodate Gary and the writer. There were a fair number of tourists at the entrance but the site itself wasn't too crowded. There was only one crane in evidence and it was folded down to be unobtrusive so the beautiful columned white marble structures glistening in the sunshine commanded center stage. We circled the Parthenon, took pictures of the maidens from every angle and even enjoyed the museum.

The statues of a nude couple eyeing each other longingly reminded me of the legend of the benevolent angel who granted an hour of life to a similar pair. He asked her if she was thinking what he was and when she agreed, he caught a pigeon and she sh** on it. The views of Athens were reminiscent of Corcovado, Sugar Loaf and Table Mountain. Just great and a must to see up close and personal.

Back down to the Plata and over to the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier where two Greek Guards dressed in unique costumes with big curved Aladdin type boots with balls of black fur on the toes went through their choreographed march every half-hour. It was reminiscent of the John Cleese Ministry Of Funny Walks sketch. One tourist who is not a passenger on the ship was crying as she had been pick pocketed in the crowd during the previous performance. I helped look through the bushes in case the thief had ditched the wallet after removing the cash but to no avail. I also plucked an orange from a tree but it was so sour we now understand why the many trees in town have not been picked clean.

We walked through the Plata for the balance of the afternoon stopping for a great lunch and later iced coffees and beer at tavernas which we picked with greater attention this time. Prices were generally very expensive for food and souvenir type wares, the consequence of the euro, so we did not spend lavishly except on food. They seemed offended at the suggestion of a price reduction.

We took the train back to the port and walked to the ship about half an hour away past dozens and dozens of ferries loading for their nighttime crossings to the islands. Grux decided to attend a 6 p.m. service at a Greek Orthodox Church we passed which she quite enjoyed. She took a video of the service and the singing was delightful. She woke me up when she arrived later at our cabin. Another room service night and she apparently saw the Parthenon alight on sail away at 11 but didn't wake me up this time

Much to my surprise and chagrin this turned out to be a very enjoyable and memorable day. I will now attempt to keep my expectations low and be very pessimistic about all future ports as they tend to be the best.

Tomorrow Malta, then Catania Sicily before Naples, Rome, Corsica and Barcelona all back-to-back. Can hardly wait so I'm going back to bed.

I will attempt short, one Scotch posts each evening if I can stay awake and so…

Until that time

Ides

[TENNCruisers]

Ides,

 

We have been quietly enjoying your travelogue and writing style. At least half the fun comes from the side comments you paint with your dry humor. Today while reading about your Day 85 we enjoyed the reference to Robin's mispent youth as a getaway car driver and the attempts by scuptors to save on the use of marble by abbreviating certain male body parts. Your story about the legend of the benevolent angel who granted an hour of life to a pair of nude statues took us a few beats to catch but we finally got it. Keep up the good work.

 

We will be taking the 2007 World Cruise on the Amsterdam next Jan-April. Wish you could join us.

 

Orlin and Barbara

[Cruising Jake]

Ides - good job, thanks for taking the time to post.

 

TENNCruisers - please continue the tradition of Grumpy and Ides and post a travelogue for us next year.

[Ides of March]

Sorry folks but I have a short in my power cable (don't even touch that line) and my computer has been dead for two days. Grux is having trouble with her password on her blog so pardon the delay. We will return ASAp

 

Until that time

 

Ides

[RuthC]

Technical Difficulties

Excuses, excuses. :rolleyes:

Guess we'll just have to wait. :(

[Grumpy1]

Day 84 Kusadasi Turkey

 

 

My last haircut was about eight weeks ago so moss was starting to grow on my bald spot due to the shade cast by my fringe and I had vowed not to revisit the “salon” on board which wouldn't know a Playboy from a Sports Illustrated having never experienced either. I therefore decided to chance a local barber and ended up having one of the most memorable 45 minutes of this trip. The young barber first wet me down with a lavender type scented spray and then proceeded to do three passes with the scissors after each of which I figured I was done. We hadn't even started. When he had me in the “roughed out” stage he then took a straight razor and pressed it against the comb which he used to sculpt fine finishing details on the donut that constitutes my follicley active region.

 

He then took clippers and sheared my neck which he then polished with his straight razor. Next came the “piece de resistance” where he took what looked to be an 8 inch Q-Tip, dipped it in alcohol and lit it, approaching me with a grin saying ”Chicken Kebob”. He used this flaming torch to singe the hairs in and on my ears and in my nostrils as well as high on my cheekbones while using his hand to protect my eyes. No pain was experienced although the crackling of little hairs particularly in the ears was novel. Believe it or not he was not done yet and pulled out a big cotton batten ball which he proceeded to attack with a comb capturing filaments near the base of the teeth. When the comb was suitably loaded with cotton he asked me if I wanted gel and when I declined he soaked the cotton in some undisclosed liquid and combed me out one final time. He finally sprayed me with some form of Cologne which stayed cool and tingling for hours but made the Grux gag. All of the foregoing cost six lire or about four dollars however I tipped lavishly for both the experience and the best haircut I've ever had. Grux is an avid reader of Travelers Tales, an excellent series recounting the experiences of wanderers in different countries and recalls one segment where the reporter says the first thing he does in Turkey is to go for a haircut and shave because it is such a sensual experience. Had I known, I would have cultivated a three-day growth to experience the full effect.

 

 

Until that time

 

Ides

I'll have to try to find that barber. We'll be in Kusadasi on August 25 on the Noordam and again on Sept 13 on the Prinsendam. I should need a haircut on one of those dates.

[Ides of March]

Day 86 At Sea

A bit of excitement to start the day as at about 12:10 a.m. the alarm went off on the ship but stopped after six short blasts. One more short and one long would have sent us to the lifeboats but as they stopped at six I went back to sleep. Turns out a machine in the ship's laundry, the big dry-cleaning one, overheated and caught fire setting off the alarm but it was quickly extinguished. Some of the passengers were apparently running around in their robes. The crew sure took it seriously as they all hustled to their emergency stations and the Good Captain then re-woke everyone with his announcement that we should all go back to sleep.

Matthew who is traveling with his partner Peter and the latter's parents won the bidding for the first dance with the Good Captain at the Black and Gold Ball which is the last formal night of the cruise making it an absolutely must attend event. Damn.

Day 87 Malta

Sail in to Valletta harbour was quite spectacular between the light beige coloured forts and battlements. Very similar to Rhodes but on a much larger scale. Off the boat with Robin and Mary, Gary and Marilyn, and Doris for a climb up the 120 stone steps to the village square. On our arrival we were greeted by a war monument where atop a huge column sat a gold Maltese Falcon. Shades of Dash Hammett and Bogie. One of the main attractions here is to ride the old yellow buses many of which predate me but are in better shape. We jumped on paid the dollar fare to Mdina which is about three quarters of the way across the tiny island. We toured the Church of St. Paul and the curator took us down into the grotto where St. Paul hid for a few years on his arrival in town. Must have been shy. Very beautiful church. Then off to what was the powder locker of the Knights of Malta also known as The Most Venerable Order of St. John of Jerusalem, Knights Hospitalier. After occupying Rhodes from the 1300s until 1522 when Suliman The Magnificent turfed them, they ended up in Malta and proceeded to turn the island into a coast-to-coast fortress which got them through the next few hundred years. We saw a movie presentation and a diorama which I found interesting having done some work in the past for the Order in Canada where they run the St. John's Ambulance brigade.

After walking around the battlements of the beautiful little town and doing some silver filigree shopping we were back on the bus to Valletta. Another beautiful town where we walked Republic Street for more shopping, purchasing a famous Malta brass door knocker. We saw many beautiful knockers in town but chose a simple one with a Maltese Cross backplate and heavy ring. Grux went into the Co Cathedral which she described as stunning and from the pictures it certainly is a busy place with intricate work on floors walls and ceilings. She also went into the old Knights of Malta Hospital which she found somewhat gruesome because of the dummies that decorated the place displaying a panoply of realistic wounds.

Malta was absolutely delightful with beautiful old well maintained buildings, a lot of history and great shopping. The fact that it was 65°F and sunny enhanced the enjoyment of all. Very pleasant and moderately memorable.

Day 88 Catania Sicily

Another perfect day of cool temperatures and bright sunshine. Sail in was enjoyable as snow capped Mount Etna dominates the view.

We were with the same group as the day before substituting Susan for Doris and walked to the train station where we finally located and rented a nine passenger Fiat van which I drove for the day. I was a little shaky at first but backed into only one stone wall executing a classic eight point turn on a narrow road when we had overshot an intersection. Later I did fold the passenger-side mirror in when driving between a double row of parked cars on a very narrow street in Catania but in fairness I did it on the rear door of a van that was open and impinging on my space so I don't feel bad. Grux however who was riding shotgun and navigating was a wreck at the end of the day as her side scraped through hedges and missed obstructions by inches. My two weeks driving in Tuscany last September stood me in good stead once I remembered that you cannot be courteous to Italian drivers as it confuses them and can lead to disaster.

We headed for Mount Aetna after some confusion getting out of town particularly at a toll booth as we entered the freeway. I drove up and couldn't find where to deposit the money and thinking that we had to have some electronic pass to get through, forced the line up behind us who were contentedly blowing their horns to back up. We didn't realize that you were supposed to take a ticket so when the next car after us went through it got our ticket but the fellow after that didn't get any. He parked on the other side and came back to swipe a ticket before the next guy could and the process repeated itself over and over. Total confusion. Eventually when the machine started functioning normally we rejoined the line and proceeded merrily on our way secure the knowledge that we had fulfilled our mandate as goodwill ambassadors.

The drive up the mountain was fantastic as we proceeded through small villages until we hit vast lava fields with little or no vegetation evident. The last erruption was back in the 80s but Mother nature has made little inroads on such a sterile substance. The road we were on must've come up the back way because we didn't see any tour buses and hardly any vehicular traffic at all. It was like we have a personal mountain. Eventually after frequent stops for pictures we joined the main road and arrived at the parking lot where about 50 tour buses awaited us. We were in the rapidly melting snowfield just below a chairlift that would take you to the summit but which was not operating on this day. It sure felt like the ski lodges back home in late spring in the cool fresh air and sunshine.

We then drove down to the coast via about 100 switchbacks stopping at two or three quaint fishing villages en route. Although they profess to sell pizza and other delights by their signage most of the establishments were serving liquor and beer only but we finally located a delightful bistro in Spazza where we have a good lunch. Back to drop off the

van only to find the rental agency closed for their lunch break which runs from one to 4 p.m.. The others returned to the ship and we waited around for half an hour to complete the paperwork.

A generally pleasant place but not particularly memorable other than seeing Etna which I have known as the Sicilian Spewer from crossword puzzles for years.

Just before sail away the Good Captain announced that we would be delayed as an ill passenger had to be put ashore. I was greatly saddened to hear that it was Lorraine, the traveling companion of Skip aka Richard Bloomgarden. Skip is a charter member of our Bridesmaids trivia team and having written hundreds of travel books on Mexico as his profession, was our resident expert on anything remotely Spanish. As Lorraine avoided trivia, I didn't get to know her that well but I did know Skip to be a prince of a guy with an unmatched enthusiasm for trivia. It just won't be the same without his horrible handwriting and his propensity to drive teammate Anne nuts every game. Anne told me of their leaving and was clearly heartbroken. We hope Lorraine has a speedy recovery and that they can perhaps rejoin us at one of the next few ports. I really wish I had had a chance to say a proper goodbye. We miss you already Buddy.

Day 89 Capri

Sail in to Napoli was somewhat dismal due to overcast skies but by the time we got off the boat at 8 a.m. it was again sunny and pleasantly cool. In September we did the Amalfi Coast and Pompeii so this time we hopped the high speed jet boat for Capri. Grux and I were alone today so we were traveling fast and light. After a very pleasant run at 25 to 30 kts we arrived at one of the most beautiful islands we have ever seen. Towering vertical cliffs with spectacular pastel villas crowning their rim dwarf the small but picturesque harbour.

We went immediately to the 25 passenger open boats with graceful lines that take you a mile up the coast to the Blue Grotto or Grotto Azzurri. As you motor along small rowboats approach and throw a line which is hooked on the stern so that they can be towed to the grotto. Having paid €10 each to get there you then have to pay €4.5 to actually enter the cave in the small rowboats. It's somewhat awkward transferring from the larger vessel to the smaller ones as you have to sit on a raised floor in a very small opening cut in the low gunnels. Felt tippy like a canoe. I wanted to sit up higher but quickly realized why this was impossible as we approached the cave entrance at high tide. The boats probably have 6 to 12 inches of freeboard but the entrance to the grotto varied from 6 inches to 4 feet with the swell rolling in. We all lay as flat as possible and our captain grabbed a chain that projected through the opening and waited for the trough of a swell whereupon he pulled hard on the chain and prostrated himself on top of us shooting us through the opening into the dark interior. As he rowed away from the entrance the sun shining through the cave mouth and through a much larger opening well below the water line made the seawater near the entrance glow a beautiful aqua blue thus giving the grotto its name. After a very few minutes in the grotto where you could see the other boats and the cave roof only when a flash went off we repeated the process and exited without crushing any skulls. Luckily we had a very sunny day so the effect was probably maximized.

Onto the funicular which is like a subway car built a 45° angle for the ride up to the town of Capri which is on the left-hand side of the harbour, Anacapri being another town is on the right side. From there we entered a narrow alley and walked up and up and up some more first between shops and homes and later between the walls of magnificent villas. The street or alley is about 6 feet wide and the locals use electric powered carts to haul supplies to the various homes and businesses as well as to transport guests to their hotels. The carts are about 2'11" wide so when they pass it's a very intimate experience. We found a Supermercado or supermarket and purchased a large bottle of Limoncello which is a lemon liquor which the Grux loves having purchased some in Santorini last year. We found a small café and bought a pizza and a sandwich made from a half a loaf of crusty bread with mozzarella, tomatoes and herbs which we consumed with the Limoncello as we sat on a cliff and gazed out over the Mediterranean. Delightful. Finally we walked all the way back down to the harbour for the boat ride back to Napoli purchasing the requisite t-shirt for me..

We walked around the Napoli harbour area which was unappealing and took another funicular up to see what we thought would be a beautiful vista but were disappointed when the train ran in a tunnel all the way up and we arrived in yet another grungy area of this town. Back down to the ship stopping at computer stores looking for a power cord for my computer unsuccessfully. (I finally took a small pair of scissors and chopped up the old cord rewiring it to the plug with scotch tape. Jerry-rigged but effective.) Robin tells me he was frequently approached and offered cameras, computers and cell phones at the dock, some of which were probably stolen from other pax. One crew bought a video cam last year and found only a rock in the box when he opened it in his cabin. Charming spot. Pass on Naples.

We really loved Capri and Grux would like to come back to spend a week or two there sometime in future. It was very reminiscent of Santorini but while there we had wasted most of the day climbing the adjacent volcano so had little time in town. We made up for it today however. Extremely pleasant and extremely memorable as one of the most beautiful places we have ever visited.

After Mumbai and particularly around Oman I found this voyage getting somewhat long and tedious and was not looking forward to this port marathon we are now in. Athens was a very pleasant surprise and since then every day seems better than the last so I guess I'm getting my second wind. I should also mention the terrific service we get on this boat from HAL and its people. When my computer stopped charging we asked for assistance from the front desk they sent Chris, the IT officer on board to our cabin to see if he could help. The next thing I know I'm in the workshop with Chris and his assistant Alexander, both engineers, where they cheerfully and skillfully worked on my machine for a considerable time cleaning it and identifying the problem. Chris loaned me the power cord from his machine on a temporary basis and was apologetic that couldn't be for a longer-term as he needed it for his work. They declined any suggestion of remuneration for their efforts. If I can catch them on shore they will enjoy a hell of a lunch. This seems typical of so many of the crew who just naturally seem to go that extra unnecessary mile.

Tomorrow Roma and now that I am empowered will try to keep current, (Grux is still having password problems so please be patient) and so…

Until that time

Ides

[Grumpy1]

We're so glad to see that you have power back to the laptop again... and also that you have been personally recharged. I had detected a change of tone back around India and knew that you weren't enjoying yourself as much as you had earlier.

 

Capri is a fantastic place. We took the jetboat from Naples when we did our honeymoon cruise in 2002. That's probably our favorite Mediterannean port.

 

We're sorry to hear about your friend Lorraine becoming ill and having to leave the ship. We certainly wish her well and a speedy recovery.

 

Thanks for the update.

 

Ciao

[Ides of March]

Day 91 Roma

Sail in to Civitavecchia was at about 6 a.m. so I'm told but we woke at about 7 a.m. because I was up till midnight doing this blog. It was considerably more than the one Scotch blog I had promised so I was feeling a little rough. Onto the HAL transfer bus into town which we sprang for as we were concerned with making it back to the boat on time. It turns out the 10 1/2 hour HAL tour to somewhere around here was an hour late getting back so we didn't leave till 9 p.m.. Grux read the description of that tour to me from the tour literature and it said “Return to the ship after your relaxing day…”. It must have been a wine tour if they were relaxed.

We were dropped off at the Villa Borghese Park after having driven right by the Vatican where we wanted to go but where they would not let us off because we had to see where to read rejoin the bus. Italians seem to disregard any senseless rule or regulation unless contractually committed to HAL. We walked back about a mile with Robin and Mary and Coach and Judy, the latter probably being the only couple on board as fit as the former. I don't know why Grux and I always make friends with athletic types like Dave and Elaine back home so that we always feel like sea anchors when we are doing anything remotely strenuous with them. I kept them in sight as we walked a mile back to the Vatican where it was World Youth Day and thus overrun with annoying children. We paid our €12 each to get into the Vatican Museum and started the 4 1/2-mile walk through the decadent galleries to get to the Sistine Chapel which is the only thing I really wanted to see.

The place was jam packed with tourists although we only had to line up for 40 minutes to get in but once there, it was full contact tourism especially with the German groups. The Japanese were equally offensive but easier to knock over. About halfway through we realized we were in time trouble because Pope Gregory was due to appear shortly and they were going to close St. Peter's Square. Grux insists its Pope Benedict so I stand corrected. In any event we cut across a barrier and ended up in the Sistine Chapel ahead of schedule. We were here in 76 when we backpacked through Europe and I recalled the touchy finger panel as dominating the ceiling. Wrong. It's but one of many and although restored with the rest of the ceiling in the 90s, it kind of gets lost in the hodgepodge of artwork. A disappointment proving you should never go back as it's never as good as the first time.

We exited through a secret door our tour guide on the transfer bus had told us brought us directly to St. Peter's although I didn't know this at the time. Into the main church for 45 minutes which didn't give us time to even attempt viewing John Paul's tomb which is the current main attraction. Out to take pictures of St. Peter's Square to find a stage set up and thousands of chairs ruining the photo op while kids danced on a stage in preparation for their later performance for the Pope. There may have also been some religious thing going on as Easter is coming up.

At this point the others embarked on an aggressive itinerary to walk all the major attractions in Rome. The Grux had the eminent good sense to realize that we could not hope to keep up their pace and thus withdrew us to ride a “ Hop On- Hop Off” bus where for €13 we rode a double-decker bus with earphones describing each attraction we passed and allowing us to get off and reboard future buses which ran every 10 minutes. It was perfect but I of course had no idea what she was doing and was a little miffed that she had separated us from our friends. When they arrived sweating and exhausted at exactly 5 p.m. which was the scheduled departure time of the bus back to the ship, I conceded her genius.

We got off at the Trevi Fountain and had intended to get off at the Coliseum but got such great pictures from the bus we didn't bother. Rome has more splendors per square mile than probably any other location on earth so a steady flood of tourist is inevitable resulting in the locals being barely able to suppress a sense of contempt forvisitors, in many cases richly deserved. I do not therefore find it a particularly inviting place and this time around it was even more ridiculously expensive and certainly more graffiti spoiled than I remember it.

We ended of the day walking to the Spanish Steps where we enjoyed the fountain but unfortunately scaffolding obscured the backing towers of the chiease. We walked back to the Piazza Popolo where we killed a half hour before the bus departed by sitting in a church and listening to a rehearsal by a female vocalist who probably needs a shower or a church to sound good. I was pretty tired and plunked down heavily on the pew where I found these folks have brought Catholicism to a new level of painfulness. They have mounted a board at the top of the backrest which projects about 3 inches horizontally outward so you cannot possibly lean back comfortably and hitting it at speed as I did has got to be worth a couple of dozen Hail Mary's.

After a 1 1/2 hour ride back to the bus, we received wonderful news that Skip and Lorraine had rejoined the cruise. Turns out her blood sugar indicator was malfunctioning and she was putting herself into diabetic shock. When two hospitals failed to diagnose the problem, she figured it out and is now all squared away. I gave Skip a big hug when I saw him and apparently I was not the first to do so and as a result he is seeking a chiropractor on board. I guess unlike real life, there is a chance of resurrection on a cruiseship when a loved one departs.

I was awed by Roma 30 years ago but didn't much like it and this visit confirmed my first impression. One every 30 years or so is about right for me.

Tomorrow Corsica and so…

Until that time…

Ides