Pacific Specifics

[Chairsin]

Flamin June, 

I have also been avidly awaiting each chapter of your travelogue. I really hope that with this mid cruise roll out of Earth and Ocean they find a way to offer each passenger a chance to experience it. And selfishly thank you for being the guinea pig so by the time we board on the 11th all will be running like a well oiled machine. 

[Flamin_June]

It has been a world of grays and whites since we sailed out of Honiara yesterday late afternoon. Honiara - a typical tropical, two-bit port, a total contrast to Tivanipupu (of which more later)  the previous day. Honiara, hot and sticky, dense, cloying humidity foretelling the rain to come, a rude shock of clashing container colours, growling trucks, diesel fumes, drains, uneven pavements, concrete, asphalt, plate glass shop fronts. Then there were the few haunted looks of poverty hidden in the eyes, and resentment, between the red-stained gap-toothed smiles; the warm, still, fetid air of dark, cavernous convenience stores and mottled footpaths stained red with dried beetle-nut spit.

I don't want to do the place an injustice - as we walked through the town  there were many friendly smiles, greetings, helpful directions, a small museum with fascinating displays and wharf-side handicraft stalls  with beautiful money-necklaces, wood carvings and the like. None theless our four hours exploring left us sapped when we returned to the ship, and the short light showers of the day turned to heavy rain, dark clouds, dark, shadowed coastlines and a dark, agitated sea.

There is a weather feature brewing to the north-west, the Captain tells us; last night Sojourn sped along at 17 knots to try and outpace it. Today: tropical downpours, lighter grays and the obligatory scudding clouds, a stiff breeze obliterating the whitecaps into fine spray.

But that, as Captain Hamish says, is outside, and we are inside, in the lap of luxury, drinking coffee and wine, having lunch, playing trivia, eating popcorn and so forth.

There is a lot of catching up to do and as ever there seems so little time in which to sit and type.  

[Fletcher]

FlaminJune - I'm sorry you felt that way about Honiara.  I found it a rather exciting place to visit and when you combine it with a tour of the WWII battlefield sites, especially the stunning US war memorial, it was one of the best places we visited on our Melanesian cruises. 

 

I see your next stop is Alotau in Papua New Guinea.  I think you'll find this even more challenging than Honiara.  There is a thrilling and, shall we say, immersive market there, full of weird stuff. However, on our second visit we were whisked through the town and not allowed off the bus due to perceived security issues which is a common thing in PNG.  If you do wander around Alotau I hope these tips come in handy -

 

 

Edited November 30, 2018 by Fletcher

[Flamin_June]

Just my impressions, but coloured by the contrast to the tropical island idylls we had been at, together with the traffic, heat, noise, rains,mclouds and so on.

Alotau was a completely different vibe, a sleepy little port  - I counted around 6 containers on the entire wharf side -, against a backdrop of jungly mountains, lovely people, with little trafic.

I wrote some paragraphs about Vanuatu and the Internet crashed as I was submitting.Will try again tomorrow. Incredible day at the conflict isles today.

[Flamin_June]

Currently cruising the Great Barrier Reef, though it might as well be the mid-Atlantic. Cyclone Oswald, which we have been outrunning successfully for several days, has finaly caught up with us. Or, to be more precise, the tropical low that Oswald has dissipated to. Grey skies, winds, a lightening 'Storm' last night and churning, foam-flecked grey-green seas this morning. Sojourn is crashing through the heavy swell up and down rather than rolling from side to side, so not too uncomfortable, rather like heavy turbulence on a flight (though seems to be getting rougher as I write).

The weather changed yesterday, as we we were sailing away from Townsville, where it had been hot, with smooth sea and low humidity, a welcome relief, after Cairns, where it had been very very hot and very very humid. We enjoyed the museum and the art gallery there (fabulous air conditioning!).

I am sure people want to know about Earth & Ocean: it opened about five six days ago, opening night by invitation only ( diamond and diamond elite), was by all accounts very successful. 

We ate there a few days ago. At the moment it is very popular, with all tables for 7.00 pm opening usually taken by 6.45 or earlier. The food we had was very good, not surprising as Chef Anton Eggers is supervising and cooking, the ambience very buzzy. Service a bit slow. A hit all round.

[Flamin_June]

More on Earth and Ocean: the offerings are a bit 'fussy', similar to the MDR dinner menus,  though the execution, at present is better. Flavours are stronger, spicier. Nigerian Shrimps are back. The pauses between courses we experienced were  in some part due to all tables being taken right from 7.00 pm, so staff were a bit overwhelmed. The baked Camembert is delish, but huge, you only really need one per table of four, though it is offered as an individual dish.

One consequence is that demand for TK grill has fallen off as people vie to get a table at E&O, so it is easier to get a reservation at TKG, and it is less crowded. However, While the old Patio grill was a bit hit or miss, I did like the option of the relatively simple up fussy fare that was on offer there.

Ad Hoc nights have been pretty good, our favourites really, though again marred by inconsistent service.

we will have a whole day and night of rough seas...