Just off the Pearl - Trip Report

[ighten]

Salmon would come through this area to spawn in the nearby rivers and the bridge was built by fisherman as the island was a great vantage point to catch them on the journey. In the 1960s up to 300 salmon were caught every single day of the season - by 2002 that number had reduced to only 300 for the entire season and it was abandoned. As far as I know it has no connection whatsoever to Game of Thrones, however the area you park your car in (a disused quarry) does. This show gets everywhere.

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Edited July 12, 2019 by ighten

[LUVINMYHUBS]

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[ighten]

Day 10 Dublin

 

A short overnight sail down to Dublin city..Last time we were in Ireland we spent time around Cobh (Cork) visiting the gaps, passes and west coast areas - along with a castle where you kiss a stone - you know the one & we did! I would put a link - but I discover its an area I still have in draft but have never quite finished writing. I suspect the same thing happens to Michael Palin on an off day so I'm letting myself off.

 

 

 

 

 

We have a private tour booked which will take us out firstly out of the city and into the lovely  countryside of the Wicklow Mountains & Glendalough Abbey, it really is quite beautiful; we then  head back into Dublin to see the city & Trinity College.

 

We had docked opposite Aviva Stadium & had a great breakfast on the aft deck before we headed off to meet our driver.
 

The drive south through the Wicklow Mountains really is a lovely trip. Quiet and often empty roads with wonderful lush scenery that make the term "The Emerald Isle" all the more relevant.

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[ighten]

The drive south through the Wicklow Mountains really is a lovely trip. Quiet and often empty roads with wonderful lush scenery that make the term "The Emerald Isle" all the more relevant.
 

 

 

Glendalough is in the Wicklow National Park which is situated south of Dublin on 20,000 hectares of mountain scenery with many roads crossing through it. There's a nice visitors centre which will provide you with maps highlighting all the various hikes for all abilities.

 

 

In the depth of the valley lies Glendalough monastic city, one of the most important monastic sites in Ireland. Its been here since the 6C and has survived everything from Vikings to Victorian tourists stealing parts to build new houses.

 

 

With its beautiful setting and its fairytale round tower you do wonder if you have actually wandered into some fantasy land (Now I have no idea if any of Game of Thrones has ever been filmed here - but every main road (and they all lead to the village of Hollywood) carries the name of a film that has been filmed in these parts- from Star Wars to Braveheart.
 

 

We arrive back in Dublin by mid afternoon. We have plenty of time to explore the city as sailaway tonight is at midnight giving you plenty of time explore the many bars and pubs. Dublin really is a beautiful city with many wonderful Georgian and Victorian building. Our route takes us past the National Museum (above).

[ighten]

 

Its a short walk from the museum to Trinity College. We arrive just in time for the last tour of the grounds which is given by a third year German Mathematics student who speaks cut glass English that would make the Queen proud. You purchase the tickets in the courtyard as soon as you enter and the price includes your access and ticket to the book of Kells Exhibition and the old library.

 

 

The term copyright features quite predominantly in Trinity Colleges history - the architect who first designed it published his plans (showing off) before the first buildings were built - so the college didn't pay him and simply stole the plans and built it anyway.

 

 

The library at Trinity is a copyright deposit library. There are five in the UK including the one here in Dublin) which means they are allowed to hold by law every single book that has ever been published in the UK. By the way the copyright library is not the beautiful Venetian influenced architecture in the centre of my photo, that's the geology building. It's the brutalist 70s building to the right of the golden ball.

 

 

The highlight of Trinity is its library which was built around the 1720s - it houses over 200,000 of the colleges most ancient books. Before you ask it is not Hogwarts library and they have never filmed any Harry Potter here - however a film connection does exist. Trinity took Lucasfilm to court claiming the Jedi Library is a direct copy of Trinity Library.

 

Other than how beautiful the library is, it is of course also the home of the book of Kells which is presented in a seperate exhibition downstairs. Also in the center of the library is the harp of Trinity (you'll recognise its shape from the Guinness pint glass you will hold!).
 

Exhausted we head back to the ship in time for yet another fabulous dinner, tomorrow we have another sea day - time to relax, recover and take the weight of those tired feet. We then head south east towards France.
 

 

Click here for part 6

[ighten]

Jun 2019 - NCL Pearl Northern Europe - Part 6 - Sea Day - Le Havre & Rouen

 

Day 11 - Sea Day Dublin to Le Havre
 

 

We leave Ireland just after midnight, the last of the taxis and limousines returning people from the night time experience of Temple Bar  just in time for our departure under a new Captain. Captain Paul left us today for his 6 month break. We are now under the master & command of Captain Giovanni.

 

 

Sea days can be different depending on the circumstances. On cruises like this they are a welcome respite from the intensity of port adventures. Here in the English Channel as we pass between the Scilly Isles & Land's End Cornwall, the busy shipping lanes never give you that unique isolation one feels from a transatlantic crossing where even the vapor trails of a plane can be a rare site & an opportunity to not only relax but to appreciate first hand just how huge this planet really is.

 

 

 

 

 

 Day 12 Le Havre (for Rouen)

 

 

Most passengers visit Paris from Le Havre, however rather like London, if its a place you have seen many times there are other options. The D Day beaches being popular locations for the Americans and the beautiful medieval town of Rouen, capital of the Normandy region, being within easy reach for us. Originally we were going to make our own way from Le Havre to Rouen by train but we have some loyalty cabin credit and as we already have free drinks & dining upgrades we decide to take the ship's coach and guided walking tour.

 

 

Rouen, a port city on the Seine, is a one hour drive, we pass the Ocean Stadium (currently hosting the womens world cup qualifiers) as we leave the port on the coach. It becomes warmer and hotter as we move inland from Le Havre. Rouen is known for Notre Dame Cathedral, with its Tour de Beurre at 75 m in height (butter tower) so named as it was financed by donations to the cathedral during Lent, not due to its creamy yellow colour!  Click here for part 6

 

Edited July 15, 2019 by ighten

[ighten]

Rouen, a port city on the Seine, is a one hour drive, we pass the Ocean Stadium (currently hosting the womens world cup qualifiers) as we leave the port on the coach. It becomes warmer and hotter as we move inland from Le Havre. Rouen is known for Notre Dame Cathedral, with its Tour de Beurre at 75 m in height (butter tower) so named as it was financed by donations to the cathedral during Lent, not due to its creamy yellow colour!
 

The cathedral's gothic façade (completed in the 16th century) was the subject of a series of over 30 paintings (painted at different times of day and seasons) by Claude Monet; our guide shows us how its possible to work out from the paintings from which building  he was viewing the cathedral - apparently one was a most excellent lingerie store (now the tourist office) but when the ladies started to complain about the scruffy artist in the corner he was asked to move on.
 

Rouen is also birthplace of Gustave Flaubert, author of 'Madame Bovary'. His inspiration for 'Three Tales' being  the stained glass windows of St. Julian below.
 

Its a very typical Gothic cathedral - you can instantly spot those architectural elements you see in so many other cathedrals of that time. The multi arched ribbed vaults supporting the roof and spreading the weight to the huge columns.
 

One thing that is missing is the traditional wooden quire, its quite unusual to be able too see down the entire length of the building. Normally the internal quire (or choir - its an architectural term although coincidentally it is normally where the singing choir would sit)  is placed after the transept (the crossing part) blocking the main altar from view. Perhaps its not the norm in France.
 

 

[ighten]

Rouen is made up of typical timber framed medieval buildings which are now occupied by designer outlets. You can even stock up on  Jack's favourite paint "Downpipe" at the Farrow & Ball paint shop in Rouen.
 

Why is it called Rue du Gros-Horloge, mm I wonder...could it be the enormous 14th century astronomical clock?
 

Joan of Arc, aged 18 defeated the English (who attempted to to conquer France during the 100 years war) by leading the French army at Orleans. But was burned at the stake only one year later by the English & their French collaborators in 1431. 
 

The Eglise Jeanne d'Arc was completed in 1979 at the site of her execution ( the old market square). The curving lines of the church represent the flames which consumed her. The exterior is 'Very Modern' , not for me but the inside is much more pleasing to the eye.

 

Curiously for a 1970's church, most of the stained glass is actually 16th century. The old church of St Vincent lay a few hundred yards away from this site and during the 2nd World War the French removed all of its stained glass windows and stored them underground in a safe location. It was a wise move as that church was completely destroyed during the war.

 

Our tour ends at the same market square, such an emotion evoking place and one the French still feel stirred by (our guide was obviously very moved telling the story). We pass a little free time shopping and talking french to the shop owners little poodle - "Hello good boy" gained no reaction at all but tails will wag and eyes meet for "Bonjour  bon chien"
 

The market is full of wonderful food for eyes and mouths to water over and the whole area is filled with wonderful restaurants offering super fresh lobsters and assorted fruit-de-mare with crisp white wine, perfect for this hot sunny lunch time. But time does not allow on the ship's tour unfortunately. However we will  explore Le Havre this afternoon. We are planning to bring the car over sometime to tour around France and will definitely return to Rouen one day, such a fabulous historical city, so charming and beautifully preserved. And also to see its many museums.

[ighten]

Stocked up on a lunch of Breads, local Camembert and of course wine we set out on foot to explore Le Havre. It doesn't matter which side of the English Channel you live on - the fact is the weather can change at the drop of a hat - and no sooner do we step outside than the heavens open.
 

 

Le Havre is an almost fully rebuilt city as it was practically totally destroyed during the war by bombing raids. You can take a bus from the ships terminal which runs to the center of the city then to a new shopping centre that the old dockside warehouses have been converted into. Most of crew are heading to the shopping centre to stock up at Primark. We head into the city and take cover from the rain visiting the Natural History Museum - one of the few original mansions left in the city. 

 

 

That evening we eat in Le Bistro again - as we are in France. Excellent again with Jack opting for the Dover Sole again and the rack of Lamb for myself. We leave France finally and set sail up the English Channel heading back to the South East of UK to sail down the Thames for London.

 

 

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[ighten]

Jun 2019 - NCL Pearl - Northern European Tour - Part 7 - Tilbury, Rochester UK

 

Day 13 - Tilbury (port of London) - Rochester

 

 

We must be in the UK, it's sunny! As usual breakfast at 'The Great Outdoors' to formulate a plan: the foot passenger ferry is right next to the ship, literally 5 mins to cross the  River Thames to Gravesend on the south bank. And from there a 20 mins train ride to Rochester.
 

 

 

It's quite surreal visiting your own country in the midst of a cruise. We made the most of a southern UK port to see something new to us.
 

Tilbury port has to deal with the strong tides of the Thames and as such looks like something from a Victorian Steampunk creation with girders and bridges connecting the pontoon to the main terminal. It could do with a lick of paint though.
 

On that very same pontoon at the back of the ship is the Tilbury to Gravesend foot passenger ferry. As you exit the terminal they will usually be set up to sell you return tickets or you can buy them on board. It runs across the Thames every 30 mins. Similarly for London I would take this route rather than joining the queue for the bus to Tilbury railway station.

 

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[ighten]

On that very same pontoon at the back of the ship is the Tilbury to Gravesend foot passenger ferry. As you exit the terminal they will usually be set up to sell you return tickets or you can buy them on board. It runs across the Thames every 30 mins. Similarly for London I would take this route rather than joining the queue for the bus to Tilbury railway station.
 

One advantage is  the route from Gravesend to London is a faster line - but more importantly if you have seen enough of London recently you can reach lots of destinations quite easily and quickly. Most guests from the ship  are heading into either London or heading the opposite way out to Canterbury.
 

Having previously seen Canterbury we are going to head into Rochester. A lovely Cathedral city about 20 minutes down the line.
 

Rochester Castle next door to the cathedral is a Norman Keep Fortress built 1127 by the Archbishop of Canterbury & Henry I.
 

 

The Cathedral is a beautiful 11C building (though there has been a Cathedral on this site since 604AD which makes it the second oldest in the UK). As soon as you enter you're greeted by one of the volunteers who will provide you with a map and give you a brief history. The architecture is Norman with lots of Gothic additions and the choir is especially beautiful with its unusually decorated main organ.

 

 

And even better there is  a lovely little cafe in the crypt which serves homemade cakes (The coconut and lime really hits the spot).

 

 

When researching before the cruise, we came across a reference to Restoration House ( above) in Rochester. It opens only on certain days and as luck would have it one coincided with the ships schedule & its a must see.

 

 

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Edited July 20, 2019 by ighten

[ighten]

 

When researching before the cruise, we came across a reference to Restoration House ( above) in Rochester. It opens only on certain days and as luck would have it one coincided with the ships schedule & its a must see.

 

Its one of those jewels of building heritage (a little like Victoria Mansion in Portland, Maine USA we saw in October  2018 on our Transatlantic)
 

 

Rather weirdly at one time it was owned by Rod Hull (and Emu, which will mean nothing to anyone not from the UK). It was then seized by the receivers to cover unpaid tax bill. Mr Hull did spend over £500000 modernising it (which luckily meant a lot of original features got covered over and protected)  but now it has been painstakingly stripped back to its original details by the current owners and filled with countless works of art. 

 

 

In every room a guide will explain any detail you would care to mention. Its a really excellent find - and the gardens are to die for. Photography is not allowed inside (its still a private home and personal art collection - Original Gainsboroughs oils and Turner sketches hang from most walls)

 

 

After a wonderful day in Rochester one of the lady volunteers reminds us that we must visit the church in Gravesend before getting back on the ferry as it has a rather unusual resident in its crypt. The lady looking after the church (St Georges) has been somewhat taken by surprise today by the number of guests visiting. She only popped in this morning to tidy the flowers but nobody mentioned a cruise liner docked on the opposite bank of the Thames today.

 

[ighten]

Pocahontas travelled to London with her husband John Rolfe (a tobacco planter) in 1616 to be presented to society as an example of "a civilized savage". She actually became a celebrity among English society and spent the year attending masques, fetes and balls. In 1617 they set sail back to Jamestown USA but Pocahontas became ill as soon as they left London and was set ashore in Gravesend where she died of unknown causes -  a rather sad little tale.

 

 

We re board the ferry and leave Kent to cross the Thames back to Essex.  The sailaway from Tilbury and back along the Thames is quite interesting as the ship has to negotiate a couple of rather tight bends requiring bow thrusters to support the usual propulsion system. As we are looking forward from the highest forward point in the crows nest club  this gives the strange impression of the ship leaning and banking into the turns.

 

 

Campari, G&T and Funky Roots in the Spinnaker Lounge (crows nest)

 

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[ighten]

un 2019 - NCL Pearl - Northern European Tour - Part 8 - Belgium Ghent

 

Day 14 - Belgium - Zeebrugge for Ghent

 

 

We pop back out of the Thames overnight and cross over to Zeebrugge port, Belgium. Its a nice day again, good enough for an early breakfast outside. The most popular destination from Zeebrugge is to take the shuttle bus into Brugge - however we were 'In Brugge' not so long ago (on a weekend ferry trip from Hull) and really wanted to see Ghent.

 

 

Fortunately, as in Le Havre, we don't have to take the train as originally planned (you could take the train into Brugge and then change to Ghent) as we had the credit on the stateroom. So after breakfast on the aft deck we find ourselves docked at Zeebrugge and heading out towards Ghent.

 

 

Ghent is a beautiful city and quite a big Flemish university location as well which explains the thousands of students gathered around the riverbanks studying for their exams - as our guide Johann points out studying seems to involve a bottle of wine or beer and a picnic.

 

Rather like Brugge, Ghent sits mostly on the canals and rivers and  has managed to keep all its medieval buildings despite the war - where the target was more the port of Zeebrugge.

 

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[ighten]

Finally getting to the end of moving this - apllogies it has taken longer than I thought

 

Rather like Brugge, Ghent sits mostly on the canals and rivers and  has managed to keep all its medieval buildings despite the war - where the target was more the port of Zeebrugge.
 

 

We enjoy a walking tour with our guide which takes us through the old cobbled streets taking care to avoid the trams and bicycles that seem to fly out of every corner - here the car/bicycle parks have digital displays that tell you how much room is left to abandon your bicycle for the day. Its a lovely day again and a wonderful city to just wander around.

 

 

 

There is lots and lots to see in Ghent as is illustrated by the tourist signs having so many destinations they have more branches than the trees. However the big thing most people come for is to take a peek inside the cathedral at one of the most significant & most stolen, works of art in the world. The bottom left panel is still missing (the theory being the person who bought the stolen panel hid it but has since died)

 

The Ghent Altarpiece is in St Bavo's cathedral, attributed to the Van Eyck brothers, Hubert & Jan. It's official title is Adoration of the Mystic Lamb, a very large & complex 15th-century polyptych altarpiece.

Edited July 29, 2019 by ighten

[ighten]

The Ghent Altarpiece is in St Bavo's cathedral, attributed to the Van Eyck brothers, Hubert & Jan. It's official title is Adoration of the Mystic Lamb, a very large & complex 15th-century polyptych altarpiece.

 

One quite inventive thing they have done inside the Cathedral is they have dedicated one of the side chapels to show a full size printed copy of the polyptych - though it is quite funny watching the look on peoples faces who didn't realise its a copy - when the guide starts tapping areas with his long stick to explain each panel.
 

 

 Other notable art works in the cathedral : Laurent Delvaux’s Rococo pulpit

 

 

and The Conversion of St Bavo by Peter Paul Rubens

 

 

We have a little free time after visiting the Cathedral and this time its a decent amount that allows us to enjoy the city a little - sampling the food (apple pies here are to die for according to Jack)

 

 

 And of course the Flemish Beers - I like Ghent a lot more than Brugge. Not masses and masses of touristy restaurants and bars competing to offer you the most expensive Spaghetti Bolognese in the world. Here the restaurants and bistros are good and full of locals.

[ighten]

And of course the Flemish Beers - I like Ghent a lot more than Brugge. Not masses and masses of touristy restaurants and bars competing to offer you the most expensive Spaghetti Bolognese in the world. Here the restaurants and bistros are good and full of locals.

 

 

The beer of course is just as good in both cities and should be sampled at every opportunity - with caution. Most are around 8 - 9% Alchohol on average and can be even higher. Treat them like wine. Incidentally every brewery (of which there are hundreds)  has its own shape of glass made supposedly to enhance the fragrance and taste. 

 

 

 The bistro we chose just happened to be next door to one of the most famous Chocolaterie chefs     (L Van Hoorebeke)  in Brussels. So a visit was obviously called for. Again beware as in Brugge; the masses of shops selling Belgium Chocolate to the tourists are often not selling you anything like the real thing.  Here its made on site and only the best quality ingredients are used.

 

 

And so we find ourselves for the last time boarding the gang plank and leaving yet another country behind.Six countries (Eight If you split the UK up), twelve Ports, and 15 days in total. A most excellent itinerary - no wonder this ship had so many guests from so many differing countries onboard. We only ever  heard one other English couple but anyone from the UK who dismissed this because it was "too local" has really missed out.

 

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Edited July 30, 2019 by ighten

[ighten]

And so we find ourselves for the last time boarding the gang plank and leaving yet another country behind.Six countries (Eight If you split the UK up), twelve Ports, and 15 days in total. A most excellent itinerary - no wonder this ship had so many guests from so many differing countries onboard. We only ever  heard one other English couple but anyone from the UK who dismissed this because it was "too local" has really missed out.

 

 

We had paid grats up front on this cruise but as we head for dinner we take the time to find and tip a little extra to a few of the people who have really excelled on this cruise - the guys in the atrium bar, a particular excellent waiter from Bistro and of course our wonderful cabin steward Haj who has over 15 days somehow managed to never repeat a towel sculpture; and of course kept our cabin spotless.

 

  

Another great dinner and then a final evening around the atrium bar listening to Ge Luz (great guy can play pretty much anything and everything from Van Morrison to Ed Sheeran - doesn't talk much though)

 

 

This has now been our 7th cruise with NCL as they offer good itinerary, price, food & drink offers as well as great service. Staff have always been excellent and friendly. First time on the "Pearl" though we have cruised on "Jade" twice before including one TA. As I said earlier the Jewel class is our preferred size of ship - though I do miss the Ocean Blue seafood restaurant of the NCL Getaway. If I had one criticism I just wish though they had updated Bliss, it's an unfriendly space in effect giving you one less option for live entertainment at night & most people seemed to think the same thing as well.

 

 

The guest band on board for this season has been Funky Roots who have put on an excellent show nightly - usually in the crows nest (Spinnaker). Wonderful 6 string bass player and singers who can turn their hand to almost anything.
 

 

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Edited August 1, 2019 by ighten

[ighten]

Day 15 Amsterdam

Before we leave the NCL Pearl just a few things to add; the house band have been excellent especially when it comes to the live music support they have supplied in the main theatre to the guest singers and shows - however I would say they have been lost a little at times doing their own thing because of  being placed in the rather oddly placed Bliss club. Also we haven't mentioned much about the main theatre shows simply because it's not really our thing.Music yes: The Motown show was exceptional, as was Legends - comedians and the current obsession with Cirque type shows, no.
 

Disembarkation was as smooth as ever (we always just use the "do it yourself method")  - no rush to leave as we had flights after lunch (though Manchester airport decided to have an IT meltdown that day which added a delay of a few hours). Luckily Schipol is a pretty decent airport to be stranded in with a wonderful museum and art gallery, great wine and of course fantastic apple pie..
 

And so that is it - done - there you have it. I admit its probably a hard cruise to read about and then try to search out and make a booking as it tends to only happen twice annually - but trust us, keep your eyes peeled (it may be a different ship), but they really do tend to have the best itineraries. Thanks for reading and cheers!
 

Click here for the previous Cruise Hawaii - on NCL Pride of America - Feb 2019

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And that is it - thanks for reading - Any questions feel free to post

Edited August 2, 2019 by ighten

[SenatorsFan]

Thanks for posting your review and photos. This looks like a very interesting itinerary. I've sailed and enjoyed Pearl in the Caribbean.

Heather

[PhillyTravelBug]

This would be a dream cruse of mine. So many beautiful destinations. thank you for this review, along with the fantastic pictures.