Port Review: Statendam Sydney to Auckland

[stebul]

Part I: Sydney

 

I thought I'd give a summary of our shipboard and independent tours. I'm not real good with details, so if I'm off by a few dollars on my pricing please don't shoot me!

 

We were on the Feb 4 Statendam cruise from Sydney to Auckland. This was a wonderful cruise, and the Statendam was in tip-top shape. The crew members we talked to were very happy because this was their first cruise season in Australia/NZ, and because they were relatively close to home in the Phillipines or Indonesia (Statendam makes stops in Manila and an outer island of Indonesia this month).

 

Sydney: We stayed at the Harbour Marriott by Circular Quay. I used Marriott Rewards points so I did not look at rates carefully. The hotel is consistently Marriott, but the location is unbeatable as there are so many things to do within walking distance. The Bridge Climb is an unbeatable thrill. Dinner at Guillame at Benellong's (Opera House) lets you look at the design of the buildings up close and the food is good. There are many ways to see the harbor, but our preference was to take the Sydney Ferry from Circular Quay to Manly Beach. The Sydney Tower gives you a panoramic view of the city, but the OzTrek virtual reality tour bundled with the elevator ride was not a good use of time. Strolls through the Rocks and the Botanic Gardens take several hours each. The Central Business District is clean and bustling during work hours. There are dozens of cafes and restaurants for lunch within walking distance of the Marriott. At night, it does slow down and many of the restaurants close. Trains (subways) are close by and efficient.

 

We took a day tour to the Blue Mountains with GetAbout4Wd (www.getabout.com.au). They offer small groups of 2-4 people with highly customized itineraries. They cost a little more, but I highly recommend them if you prefer a personalized tour and good conversation with your guide (AUD$225/pp). Bus tours ran about AUD$150-180 pp. We saw the sights at Katoomba and Three Sisters offered by most Blue Mountain tour operators, but also stopped several times along the way to look at off-the-beaten path Aboriginal archeology such as rock carvings. Our guide had a detailed knowledge of bush flora, fauna, history, and Aboriginal culture that really helped us learn about Australia. The tour lasted a full day (7:15AM until 6:30PM) and included a nice picnic lunch.

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Melbourne: Statendam docks at Station Pier, and there is a city tram (street car) stop about 1/8 mile walk from the ship. Many passengers used the tram system to explore Melbourne. Your best bet is a day pass that can be purchased from the IGA by the tram stop.

 

The City of Melbourne has an extensive tourism website (www.thatsmelbourne.com.au), including 7 walking tours that focus on different areas of the city. I decided to pick the highlights from these 7 tours so we walked through the downtown alleys that are now lined with cafes and stores. We walked through the botanical gardens and along the banks of the Yarra River. We saw the Cathedral and walked through a residential neighborhood just east of the Central Business District. We took the tram to St. Klida, but by the time we got there it was time to turn around and head back to the ship. Our feet were sore from walking by the end of the day, but we got to see this interesting city from the sidewalks.

 

Burnie: Burnie is a small working town on the North coast of Tasmania that is working hard to build its reputation as a tourism destination. We took the HAL Gunns Plains Cave tour. The caves were interesting, but the highlight of the trip was Wing's Farm Animal Reserve. Wing's Farm is a privately operated wildlife rescue center that the owners (three generations of family farmers) open up to visitors. All of the animals are rescued and could not survive in the wild, so you get to see Tasmanian Devils, Wombats, and Kangaroos up close with narration from friendly family farmers. It is a well presented labor of love. EVERYONE we talked to on the ship who took this tour felt it was one of the cruise highlights -- people were talking about it for days.

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Milford/Dusky/Doubtful/Thompson Sounds: The weather in Fjordland National Park is often windy, which means that a full sized cruise ship can't always traverse the sounds fully. We had a sunny and still day, so we got to see everything. Here is a map of Fjordland:

http://www.doc.govt.nz/Explore/001~National-Parks/Fiordland-National-Park/Fiordland-National-Park-Map.asp

 

The day started early with Captain Bos bringing the bow of Statendam within 50 feet of a 500 meter high waterfall in Milford Sound (there was 800 ft of water under the ship). Those of us on the bow could feel the spray of the waterfall. It was an amazing experience. On the way out of the harbor, dozens of dolphins swam along the ship.

 

We then entered Thompson Sound, which connects to Doubtful Sound. Later in the afternoon we passed through Dusky Sound. Lots of impressive fjord photos were taken. Statendam had an onboard port specialist who gave detailed narrative throughout the day.

 

Dunedin: I booked an independent tour with D-Tours (http://www.d-tours.co.nz/) operated by a colorful local named Eddy. We saw the world's steppest street, Dunedin Railroad Station, and several churches before heading out to the Otago Peninsula to see the Yellow Penguins and the Albatross Center. We paid about NZ$130 pp for the driver and entrance fees to the attractions, which are well done. We managed to see two albatross in flight, as well as several nesting. The guides at both the Albatross and Penguin centers were enthusiastic and very informative. Again, everyone we talked to was very happy.

 

Christchurch: At the last minute, we decided to take the TranzAlpine Express across the Canterbury Plain to Arthur's Pass that HAL was offering for $249 pp. We took a very short bus ride (less than 5 minutes) from the ship to the train tracks alongside the port. Tea and a scone was served. We stopped at the foot of the mountains for a break, then started up the big hill. If you take this trip, make sure you sit on the RIGHT side of the train -- that is where the views are! At Arthur's Pass, we transferred to buses and started a LONG drive back to Christchurch. We got back to Christchurch about 3:30 PM, which only left about 45 minutes to explore a very picturesque, orderly city. The train ride was interesting, but most people did not feel it was worth the $249 price. We wished we had spent more time in Christchurch.

 

Picton: Picton is the South Island terminus for the ferry that runs from Wellington to the South Island, and is the gateway to Marlborough wineries. We are not winery people, so we decided we would take a drive along Queen Charlotte and Pelorus Sounds. I booked a 6 hour drive with Helen at Bay Adventures Touring Co:

http://www.batcompany.co.nz/index.html

 

Helen really enjoyed showing us the countryside where she lives. She charged us NZ$250 for two people. Helen and her husband own a yacht, so she passed on lots of information about sailing and life on the waterfront. This is a low stress shore excursion, as the roads are slow and the only destination is really the scenery around you. We stopped for coffee then lunch, and enjoyed Helen's commentary on life in New Zealand. I recommend the tour for those who love coastlines and mountains. One point to keep in mind about the lush forests you see in New Zealand is that they have mostly been planted by hand over the past 150 years! For many years, landowners replanted douglas firs when they harvested forests. Recently, the price of timber has fallen and land is not being replanted after it is harvested. This has resulted in job loss in the logging industry as well as erosion of the soil.

 

HAL offered a boat tour that went along the Queen Charlotte Sound that many passengers raved about. Others enjoyed their excursion to the Marlborough wineries.

 

Later that evening, Captain Bos anchored Statendam at Ship's Cove (where Captain Cook stopped several times during his voyages).

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Wellington: Statendam docked about a 1 1/2 miles from the Central Business District. We decided to walk, although there was a bus service available for USD$10 round trip. We took the vertical cable car up to the botanical gardens, and walked back down to the city before heading to the Te Papa (Museum of New Zealand). Te Papa is huge, and very well organized. We spent about 2.5 hours there, but easily could have spent more. There are exhibits on all things Kiwi: geology, fauna, flora, Maori culture, settlement, art, history, minerals, and gems. Admission is free. Well worth a visit. JRR Toilken fans enjoyed the Hobbit tour offered by HAL. The weather lived up to Wellington's reputation: Windy.

 

Napier: Napier was the surprise of the cruise for us. Napier was leveled by an earthquake in 1931, and the entire city was rebuilt in the Art Deco style. It is a gem. Imagine a small town version of South Beach, complete with block after block of one and two story banks, stores, hotels, and restaurants all being preserved by residents and business owners who take great pride in the city's history. We booked the HAL Art Deco city tour ($42 pp) which was operated with guides from the city's Art Deco Center. We saw several Art Deco residential neighborhoods and the downtown by bus, saw a film at the art deco center, and took an hour long walking tour that showed us inside and outsides of many historic buildings. Again, every passenger we talked to enjoyed this port.

 

Tauranga: I pre-booked a tour to Rotorua with Sam at Touring Company NZ (http://www.touringconz.com/) based off a recommendation from CC posted last year. Tauranga and Rotorua have a highly developed tourism industry, so there are many tour operators to choose from (including several who post lots of useful information here on CC). There are literally dozens of things to do in and about Rotorua, so I recommend that you thoroughly review your options with the tour operator you chose. Everything is ala carte -- you hire a driver and pay the admission fees.

 

Sam assigned us to one of his drivers, Aaron, who made sure we had a good time. We stopped at a Kiwi farm and sampled Kiwifruit and Kiwi wine, then stopped for a Kiwi flavored ice cream cone (all very good). We stopped further along the road to Rotorua to watch kayakers plunge down a short waterfall. Then we drove around Rotorua to look at the Blue and Green Lakes. Then it was on to the Whakarewarewa geothermal park and the excellent, tasteful Maori culture show. Aaron convinced us to try the Skyline Luge run -- imagine sitting on an oversized skateboard with a steering column and brakes, riding down a mountain on steeply banked concrete pathways ending up at a ski lift that takes you back to the top for more. It was great fun for all ages, although a little frustrating when you got caught behind a Sunday driver! Aaron took us back to Tauranga on a back road past sheep stations and farms.

 

Auckland: We stayed in Auckland for one night at the Hyatt Auckland. The hotel was what you expect from a Hyatt, but the location is a little off the beaten path. We went up the Sky Tower, then took a ferry across the harbor to the scenic suburb of Davenport where there is an active main street filled with cafes, restaurants, and boutiques. After 19 days of vacation, we were ready to rest and relax so we sat on a bench for about an hour watching sail boats go by. That evening, we took a long walk from the hotel through commerical and residential areas to get a feel for the city. Sydney, Melbourne, and Christchurch ranked as our favorite cities.

[cands]

Thanks so much for posting this. (and for the photos, too). We do Auckland - Sydney on Nov 24.

Now, what to do in Melbourne?;)

 

Steve and Chris

[Aussie Gal]

How about going home and making sure everything is alright? I am only kidding!

 

Actually I would hate to visit my home town as I would feel as though I was home from the cruise even though one still had a couple of days left before the end.

 

You need to do something you have never done before. We often used to spend a weekend in the city and go and see different tourist attractions that we hadn't been to before or hadn't seen for awhile. It was fun being a tourist in one's city and it is a great city!

 

Otherwise, spend the day on the ship and have it all to yourselves. I believe that it is a great experience.

 

Jennie

[cands]

How about going home and making sure everything is alright? I am only kidding!

 

Jennie

 

Jennie,

One thing is for sure, we won't be going home to check on anything:rolleyes: . There are so many port days on this trip it is tempting to stay on-board or close by the ship for the day.

Although playing tourist at home sounds like fun too. We have wanted to go to the Immigration Museum for some time, so will probably catch the tram into town to do this.

So many choices, so little time.

 

Regards,

Steve.

[Andrea A]

Thanks for posting Stebul. Sounds like you had a wonderful trip. I am leaving next week and am planning on booking a day trip out of Sydney to the Blue Mountains. Did Getabout tours pick up and drop off at your hotel, or drop off at Circular Quay? We are staying at the Intercontinental. Also, I'm interested in a tour that also stops to see the wildlife.(Kangeroos and koalas) Was this a stop for you.? I prefer something smaller than the buses. So far, I'm thinking of Dahl tours but am considering getabout, but not quite sure of thier stops other than the 3 sisters, blue mountians, and the usual.

 

Thanks so much,

Andrea

[stebul]

Did Getabout tours pick up and drop off at your hotel, or drop off at Circular Quay? We are staying at the Intercontinental. Also, I'm interested in a tour that also stops to see the wildlife.(Kangeroos and koalas) Was this a stop for you.? I prefer something smaller than the buses. So far, I'm thinking of Dahl tours but am considering getabout, but not quite sure of thier stops other than the 3 sisters, blue mountians, and the usual.

 

Thanks so much,

Andrea

 

Yes, Getabout picks up at your hotel. We saw kangaroos lolling about in a meadow enroute to Katoomba (but since they are out in the wild you may or may not see them when you show up). You will have to go to a park to see koalas, or take a short Sydney Ferry ride from Circular Quay to the zoo. I think Getabout will customize a tour for you if you want to stop at an animal reserve during the day. I did not look at Dahl, so I cannot compare. I also talked to Mount n Beach, but they use a 4WD bus and for about AUD$45 pp additional we were able to get a more personalized tour. Getabout used a standard mid-size Nissan SUV.

[stebul]

There are so many port days on this trip it is tempting to stay on-board or close by the ship for the day.

 

You are very right. The sea days are bunched up at the beginning (or end) on this itinerary. The cruise didn't seem that busy when I looked at the itinerary, but it is definitely port intensive. Most ports are ones you want to maximize your time in. The ship departs most ports between 5:30PM and 6:30PM, and there is no better place to watch the action than from the Crow's Nest with a martini or Coke! That is always one of my favorite cruising moments.

[cands]

You are very right. The sea days are bunched up at the beginning (or end) on this itinerary. The cruise didn't seem that busy when I looked at the itinerary, but it is definitely port intensive. Most ports are ones you want to maximize your time in. The ship departs most ports between 5:30PM and 6:30PM, and there is no better place to watch the action than from the Crow's Nest with a martini or Coke! That is always one of my favorite cruising moments.

 

"Too right" about the sail aways - it's the best time:) .

Luckily, we have been to NZ a couple of times already, so we can have some low key days in ports we have already visited. We haven't been to Napier, so are really looking forward to it. Also, on our last NZ cruise Dunedin was cancelled due to high winds, so that will be another first.

We are seriously considering doing the Tranzalpine train, so were interested in the comments you made about this day, especially since it is a pretty expensive excursion.

 

After our Westerdam cruise last year, we so much wanted to travel again on Holland America. This cruise seemed like the perfect opportunity. A great plus for us is a one hour flight home at the end instead of the usual 14+ hours:eek: .

 

Steve (and Christopher)

[stebul]

"We are seriously considering doing the Tranzalpine train, so were interested in the comments you made about this day, especially since it is a pretty expensive excursion.

 

We also initially did not sign up for the Tranzalpine because it was very expensive, but HAL announced onboard that there was a US$100 pp price drop (from US$349 pp down to US$249) so we decided to try it. The tour filled 4 carriages, so the trip was very popular. It operates as a charter separate from the reguarly scheduled daily Tranzalpine. Unfortunately, due to the ship's arrival and departure times it is not possible to take the scheduled Tranzalpine service.

 

We heard that HAL restructured the excursion because late returns delayed the ship's departure on previous cruises. They replaced lunch in an Arthur's Pass restaurant with a boxed lunch waiting for you on the bus. The idea was to take the lunch outside and have a picnic, but it was raining very hard so no one felt like walking 200 yards to covered tables. We ended up eating on the bus. It turned out this was our driver's first day on the job, and although he did fine driving the bus he definitely had not mastered the climate control system which made for a bunch of grumpy Americans. About 4.5 hours elapsed between the time we got off the train and returned to Christchurch. We stopped at a small museum and an overlook at Arthur's Pass (both could have been skipped), but most of the time was spent sitting on a bus.

 

We wished they had turned the chartered train around at Arthur's Pass and taken us back to Christchurch, but I suspect that would have made the tour even more expensive. The train had open wine/beer service, but since you get off before 11AM many people were not partaking. Eliminating the open bar would be another option for improving the value proposition. Some of what happened are one time glitches that the tour operator and HAL have hopefully worked out, but my recommendation would be for them to figure out how to get from Arthur's Pass back to Christchurch as fast as possible to enjoy the museums and street scene.

 

Bottom line is that I would recommend taking the Tranzalipe as part of a land-based trip around South Island, even if it might be many years (in our case) before going back. Everyone we talked to enjoyed the other HAL excursions offered in Christchurch.

 

Steve (and Ron)

[cands]

We also initially did not sign up for the Tranzalpine because it was very expensive, but HAL announced onboard that there was a US$100 pp price drop (from US$349 pp down to US$249) so we decided to try it.

 

Steve (and Ron)

 

Steve,

Thanks so much for the detailed reply. We love travelling on trains (it was our first vacation choice before we discovered cruising - we have travelled twice across Canada and once across the USA by train).

However, we despise long coach trips - yuk.

 

It really sounds like the whole thing is a bit of a compromise to fit into the ship's visiting time.

Christchurch is such a lovely city - it seems silly to sit in a bus for 4.5 hours when there is so much else on offer.

 

I think we'll give it a miss (at this stage), and as you suggest, leave it for a land based trip to NZ. (after all, we can go there for a long weekend if we feel like it ;) )

 

We still would like to get a 'dose' of train on this trip.

I know you didn't take the train excursion in Dunedin, but did you talk to anyone who did?

Any comments you care to make would be greatfully received.

 

Thanks,

and take care.

Steve.

[stebul]

We heard good reports on the Taieri Gorge Railway out of Dunedin. I don't remember anything more specific, just that people enjoyed it.

[Acrusa]

Did you happen to chat with any passingers who booked the 5 nite Explore Australia pre cruise tour? I posted this ? on Hals thread also.A few yearsb ago we took there pre cruise to Anka Wat and Bangkok, it was one of the best tours we ever took.But we stayed in only 2 hotels and there where only 2 flights to contend with.This one seems like a lot of changing planes.

[stebul]

Did you happen to chat with any passingers who booked the 5 nite Explore Australia pre cruise tour?

 

Sorry, I can't help with that one. Most everyone we met flew into Sydney a few days early. We left the US on Sunday night to arrive in Sydney Tuesday morning before embarking the ship on Saturday morning.

 

We spent one night in Auckland before flying home. It seemed like most passengers flew home the same evening we got off the ship or stayed one extra night. If I had to choose between spending extra time in Sydney or Auckland, I would choose Sydney because there are so many unique things to do such as the Opera House and Bridge Climb.

[stebul]

I forgot at least one thing that I wish I had known in advance, and that is options for transit from the ship into the city center at each port. This itinerary is great for independent travellers. In all cases, make sure you bring both your ship identification AND a picture ID (passport or driver's license). Security was very good. Internet access is readily available at all ports (cost is about $3-$6 per hour in AUD or NZD)

 

Melbourne - The city tram stops at the land side of the pier. The pier is also used for the ferry that runs between Melbourne and Tasmania. Representatives from the tourism board were in the cruise ship terminal with maps and other information. I did not see taxis or private tour operators. There is very little within walking distance of the pier.

 

Burnie - The City of Burnie goes all out for cruise ship visitors. The mayor greeted passengers in the morning. The ship docks at a working port, and you cannot walk from the ship to the city. However, the City provided very frequent free buses that took you to the Tourism Bureau as well as several stops downtown (including one in front of an internet center). Taxis and tour operators were available at the Tourism Bureau, but not at the ship. Another city bus (not free) circled a larger area including sites such as the cheese and paper factories and a garden.

 

Dunedin - This is a working port, but you can walk into Port Chalmers. Some taxis and local tour operators were waiting at the land side of the pier. Dunedin is about a 15 minute ride from Port Chalmers, and a bus charging about USD$10 pp round trip took passengers from the port to the Octagon (town square) in downtown Dunedin.

 

Christchurch - The ship docks at Lyttleton, which is another working port with no pedestrian access. A bus was available to take passengers into downtown Christchurch (about 20 minute ride). Cost was about USD$10 pp round trip. I did not see any taxis or independent tour operators. There are many things to do in downtown Christchurch.

 

Picton - The ship docks at the ferry pier, and is within walking distance of downtown Picton where there are banks, restaurants, and shops. Some taxis and tour operators were available land side.

 

Wellington - We docked at a working port about 1 1/2 miles from the downtown area. You can walk to major attractions like Te Papa or the Cable Car, but it is about 30-45 minutes and be prepared for windy conditions. A USD$10 pp bus ride was available to the downtown area (I do not know where it stopped). There were taxis available near the ship.

 

Napier - Another working port, but with a free bus ride into Napier provided by the City. Stops were made at the Art Deco Center and at a tourism information center. I did not see taxis or tour operators near the ship.

 

Tauranga - A working port, but taxis and local tour operators are given very good access. There were about a dozen vans lined up very close to the ship. You could walk off the port into Mount Maunganui where there are beaches and a commercial district. Bus transportation was not provided.