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DIY Port Report on Thessaloniki, Rhodes and Heraklion


Cruisehiker
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Experience for three great stops with Celebrity Infinity Feb 24 (and also Norwegian Epic for Rhodes). We are two seniors on a budget (so seldom take excursions) who like walking and cultural activities. See also separate posts on Athens embark/disembark and Kusadasi and Limassol in relevant ports of call sections.

 

Thessaloniki is Greece’s second largest city but seems much less urban than Athens because its central streets are greener and wider (partly due to rebuilding after a terrible 1917 fire) and it has a great waterfront promenade that runs for miles. It is very historic, including being the second city of the Byzantine Empire and the largest Jewish community in Europe for many centuries. It is also a great city for walking, both along the waterfront and up the hill to the Chain Tower and the old wall, and the Vlatadon Monastery, both of which have great views. The ship berths in the docks but you can walk for about 10-15 minutes to the edge off the main city, and bus stops for services running along the waterfront and up the hill. You can buy tickets for cash on the bus but cheaper to buy in advance. We had an overnight here giving us time to explore the wonderful Byzantine churches (especially St Demetrius), the very moving Jewish Museum and the Modern Art/Photographic Museum complex that is near the ship; to listen to the street musicians playing on the promenade after the White Tower; and to have evening drinks in the lively nightlife area of Ladadika that is near the berth (there are others too - Thessaloniki is a popular travel destination for much of the Balkans as well as northern Greece).

 

Rhodes city is very walkable and easy to self-navigate. The cafes and old buildings of the historic centre start within a short, harbourside, walk from the berth. Most people carry on walking in this direction before turning left to walk directly uphill to the impressive medieval fortifications of the Knights of St John, and going up or down the Street of the Knights. Very scenic but lots of people injured the mornings so go as late as you can if you ant good photos. You can also do a less trodden route to the same destination by turning left soon after disembarking, walking uphill and tracking the old walls around to the fortifications. The western part of the city also has good shops (including the British store Marks and Spencer!), and a nice beach with a waterside pathway down to Kritika. The modern art museum is out this way and we found it very interesting, especially ion local painters. Finally, there is a regular bus service to Lindos, an archetypal white village with nice beaches and an amazing hillside Acropolis. Heaving in summer but quiet out of season. The bus departs the central KTEL station in Rhodes, which is about 20 minutes brisk walk from the berth, and takes about 70 minutes on an interesting route that is partly through hill villages.


Heraklion is the fourth largest Greek city so bigger than Limassol or Rhodes, and with a life beyond tourism so sophisticated shops etc. The ship docks on its eastern side. The city has an interesting and walkable waterside which includes a long quay that runs out to the Rocca Mare Fortress and lighthouse (great views of the ship and mountains behind) and further westwards a very pleasant promenade, with several museums. We went into the Natural History one last time and it was surprisingly good. Two roughly pedestrianised streets - 25 Avgostou and Idomeneos - run for. mile or so uphill from the waterside to the main centre with shops and the excellent Archaeological Museum (very useful for putting a Knossos visit into context). It's not possible to walk off the ship independently - Celebrity had a free shuttle to the centre near the Archaeological Museum but I believe other lines drop at the port entrance, which is a 10-15 minute walk westwards to the base of the pedestrianised streets. Knossos has a nice location and is worth visiting on a nice day but has no large scale original structures so more work is needed in picturing how it was so advance research recommended. The No 2 or 20 buses to Knossos depart near where you exit the port from Te Amaini bus station and pass near to the Archaeological Museum. . Fares were 2.5 euro each way when purchased (for cash) on the bus, less from a ticket booth or on the city transit app. It takes about 15-20 minutes on an interesting journey through Heraklion’s outer city and suburbs.

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