Baltic Ports

[kevins]

We just got back from a seven day cruise through the Baltics. Here are my thoughts:

 

I couldn't believe the weather! We packed for all occasions and were blessed with sun just about everyday. I was prepared to dress in layers but really stuck with shorts and t-shirts and was very comfortable.

 

Helsinki-Nice easy 15 minute walk from pier to Market Square. We stopped first at Uspenski Church aka St. Nicholas Church. This church lacks the publicity but is exceptional in its views and its beauty. So much is said about the white Lutheran Church but this one is better by far. The market is really neat. I swear I think they polish the veggies before putting them out for display. A chef would have a field day. The stalls sell some pretty neat souvenierish stuff. You can shop around the market and find something to take home. Prices are very reasonable but quality varies from stall to stall. Across from the Lutheran Church there are some nice little shops. Tough buying Russian goods on your first day, but if something looks like a bargain, go for it.

 

St. Petersburg- We used Red October and decided to do it right and just get a car for the three of us. This is an expensive way to go, no doubt. However, this was probably our only trip to the Baltics and we wanted to do it right. So much time is wasted with the big tours and so impersonal. I hate waiting for what my wife would call the "step-and-fetch" its to get back to the bus.

 

Red October gave us a basic plan and allowed us to ad lib. We hit everything on the list in three days. If I said I wanted to see St. Peter & Paul Cathedral in Peterhof we did it. Our guide Elena had us whisked into the Hermitage ahead of a large line like it was nothing. We moved through four buildings of the Hermitage in two hours and saw alot. We also did the Gold Room. There are pros and cons that have been mentioned. The gold is only part of the fun. Being escorted into the lower depths of the Hermitage and having a personal tour was fun, albeit a splurge not everyone would like.

 

We saw Peterhof and requested a trip to the Grand Palace. Watch their wording in the basic itinerary as they intend to show you the outside of the Grand Palace and only show you the inside of Monplasir (at the lower end of the park). Both Peterhof and Pushkin are must see's. St. Isaac's Cathedral is also a must.

 

I have also read comments about the lunches. At $17 a person you may feel that this is a bit pricey. After spending thousands of dollars on cruise, air and RO it is silly to skimp here. The meal is plentiful. They set you up with a table and you're all set. Because you order everything on the first day, the meal is ready for you when you arrive. Everything we had was tasty. You could also get beer, wine or coke at an extra charge. The waiters speak limited English but enough to help you through the process.

 

As I mentioned, Red October lets you massage the plan to your liking. Since we are Russian Orthodox we requested and were able to attend Divine Liturgy at Alexander Nevsky Cathedral. It was a special time for us. In addition, we asked to have our son meet a priest. At our last stop, we went to St. Vladimir's where an agent from Red October arranged the meeting. I have never seen that in a tour and thought they went out of their way for us.

 

The negatives for RO are few. Forget the store. RO should stand for Rip Off. Its all the tacky stuff at higher prices. I felt that although we saw many things we never got the opportunity to shop (with one exception). The pace is fast and furious, so be ready to move and be prepared as you do not want to get tired and cranky this early in your cruise.

 

Petersburg was an interesting place. One could not avoid the poverty, the signs that Communism is somewhat alive and that it will take a miracle to get the economy moving. The beauty abounds, but you will be left wondering if the beauty was in fact reality. Still trying to piece together my feelings on this city. I'm sure I'm not the only one.

 

Tallin- If you are going to shop, do it here. Buy icons in the churches as they are cheaper there. The icon collection is decent and inexpensive at Alexander Nevsky-worth the hike. If you see a sweater, buy it. They are much cheaper there than in Sweden. Food is decent there too. We ate at the Olde Hansa which was decent.

 

Visby- Neat place. Nice little walk from the tender. Great, great view from atop St. Mary's Cathedral. Shopping is expensive. My son, with his unique sense of humor, wanted to buy a Frisbee in Visby. He not only got the frisbee but also a goofy viking hat as well. Both Visby and Tallin will wear you out since you'll be tired from St. Pete and the fact that most of the walking is uphill and on cobblestones. Hit that gym before you go, because it will definitely help.

[Hummer]

Thank you Kevins - your post is great. Can you give us the name of the restaurant you ate at for lunch in St. Petersburg?

 

Nancy

[kevins]

The three restaurants were Adamant, Our Petersburg and the Russian Club. In each case they were centrally located to our next stop. Of the three, the Russian Club was probably the fanciest http://www.russclub.spb.ru. Our Petersburg was nice too-best stroganoff of the bunch. The guide presented us with a menu for each the first day and you were able to pick from three entrees. At each place you would get salad, soup, main course dessert and coffee or tea. If you didn't know (this caught me by surprise) a regular coffee in these restaurants is an espresso. They really do not understand the concept of decaf either. The restaurants were nothing fancy, were not inhabited by anyone other than ourselves and our guides (who sat at a distant second table). Understanding the poor salaries for most Russians it is understanding why they do not frequent restaurants for lunch. We liked each meal and the break in the schedule was worth it.

Kevin

[kevins]

Sorry, that first restaurant was Rzjewsky, not Adamant. I had perch there and it was pretty good.

[Hummer]

This is exactly the information I was looking for...we are scheduled to stop at Our St. Petersburg with Red October in another week or so. One member of our party does not want the big lunch so I wonder if lite fare is an option on the menu. Thanks for the tip on beef stroganoff. I also want to be sure and find a good borsht (sp?) while we are there. I am glad to hear it is not crowded and fits into the flow of the day.

 

Did you hear of any concerns about eating washed vegetables, or anything with local water? Is it generally understood one sticks to bottled water?

 

Thanks again.

 

Nancy

[CruisePlease416]

We returned from a Baltic tour two weeks ago. We also used Red October and were very happy with them. We enjoyed the break at the restaurant, but did not care for the food. I am sorry, but I do not know the name of the particular restaurant. On our second day, we had lunch with a Russian family and that was a highlight of the trip for many of us. The woman we dined with was so warm and welcoming and her cooking was fabulous. There were 10 in our group and we all had a great time.

We would have liked to have done a little shopping someplace other than the Red October store, but that was a minor flaw in an otherwise wonderful itinerary.

[kevins]

Nancy-

Since you are using Red October, you could probably tell them that you wish to skip certain portions. If I remember, they gave you a copy of a menu and each person circled the entree they wanted. I get the impression that they are regimented in this so there may not be much wiggle room. If you are on the Seven Seas Voyager, they will serve a russian menu on the first night and that borscht is superior to anything I've ever had. The borscht at Our Petersburg was also very good. I wish I had thought a little more carefully about the washing of salad greens. My son's history teacher travels to Russia often and was emphatic that we should not drink the water lest we want a good bout of dysentery. Not an issue in the red October restaurants. We did not experience any problems after eating salads. Hope you have a great trip and if I can provide any more insight please ask while my sieve of a brain still remembers everything!

Kevin

[Mimi949]

I agree with all of the above. We were just there for 2 days with RO. Think we had the same guide. We had same easy entrance to the Hermitage but were told, since we did not give 2 weeks notice, that we could not get to the Gold room. However, we saw several other sites not on the "tour" because we had time. One was the war Memorial to the 900 day Siege and the other the jewish synagogue (our fellow travellers were jewish and curious about the current status..which was fine with us). I was impressed by our guide Elena (Helen) that even though that was unscheduled she knew the history, architect etc. and was able to get us inside without prior set up.

 

Also: 1)RO found our companions for us. 2)We were on the Crystal Symphony and they were very cooperative and let all the "independents" disembark first.

[Hummer]

Thanks for all of the valuable feedback on St Petersburg - we will be leaving for our trip next week and I will be sure to post upon our return.

 

Nancy

[Joyfredsblondecruiser]

Great information thank you so much. Happy Sailing, Joy