My Progreso Review

[Kyzmette]

Okay, after listening to all the bad, I was bound and determined to enjoy what Progreso really had to offer in the way of the local culture. We just got back off the November 1 sailing of the Carnival Fantasy to Cozumel/Progreso, and I have to say that the Progreso day was the BEST!!!

 

To start with, my crew of six took a stroll through the shops on the pier and listened to the spiel of all the tour offers. The prices were a little better than what the ship was offering, but thanks to all you wonderful people here on the forums, I knew it could get better. After getting some price ranges, we took the bus into Merida, and I walked by the taxi's lining the road with a longing look on my face. It took only a moment to be approached by a fellow offering some nice deals on package tours, but we told him we wanted specific locations: to tour Merida and Dzibilchaltun. He gave us a good price, everybody I was with looked at me, and I shook my head and turned to walk away. At this point we were given a price of $120.00 for an all day personal taxi tour for all six of us, and we got an air conditioned van to ourselves.

 

Our driver, Jose, knew only a very little English, but he was very nice and while I sat in the front seat with him, he coached me on some common phrases and words. We had great communication, in spite of the language gap. He took us first to the mercado in Merida, where he led us down some narrow streets filled with shops packed to bursting with trinkets. He introduced us to a tiny food cart, where the owner served me some roasted pork on a tortilla with a local relish. The rest of my party were afraid to try it, but I dug right in and it was DEE-licious! From there we visited the government buildings, which were gorgeous. If you're friendly, the local policia have ready smiles and are very helpful, in spite of the large guns they tote. We passed from the government buildings into our own exploration of one of the oldest cathedrals in North America. If you're into history and antiquity, you'll love Merida.

 

Once we finished in the cathedral, it was lunchtime. It didn't take much to let Jose know we wanted to try authentic local food that wouldn't cost a bundle, so he took us to a restaurant he was familiar with. I can't even begin to tell you how good the food was. Our whole ticket, including seven meals (we bought Jose's), the alcoholic drinks, and the tip, cost us $80.00. Each of us got something different, and nobody got a meal they didn't enjoy thoroughly.

 

After lunch Jose drove us to Dzibilchaltun and turned us loose for a couple of hours while he waited for us. The ruins are open to tourists, and the photos we walked away with are gorgeous. We even took a dip in the crystal clear cenote. I understand Dzibilchaltun isn't as grand as some of the other ruins, but it's very close and we got to do everything we wanted to do in one day.

 

Merida was beautiful, so colorful and vibrant. The ruins were fascinating. The people were friendly and helpful. I will be disappointed if I go again and they're more touristy like Cozumel. We enjoyed ourselves so much that we left Jose a hefty tip, as what we experienced was worth far more than we paid.

 

Personally, I didn't care for Cozumel, as it was basically a large tourist trap. Once we got away from the main area and got to the beach, it was okay, but it was still just a beach (although a nice one). If you're looking to buy little trinkets be sure to get them from Progreso, as many of the vendors in Cozumel won't even barter anymore.

 

Merida wasn't Cozumel. Merida was an adventure.

[hdawson]

WOW! This is the kind of trip report I love to read. After two port calls to Progreso, I'm now in the planning stage of my fourth (3 wk) vacation back to Merida and the Yucatan State, over Easter. I'm really happy your gang had a great time.

 

John

[clackey]

WOW! This is the kind of trip report I love to read. I'm really happy your gang had a great time.

 

John

I'll drink to that!

 

It is a shame that some of the crew was afraid to partake of the local cuisine though. People, you really missed something when you didn't try the food at the little specialty shops and from the street vendors.

[hdawson]

C. At the Mercado in Merida, there are some stands (with 4 to 6 stools) that sell the best roast turkey tacos. They certainly did pack alot into a full day.

[happy1]

It's great to hear from someone who enjoys venturing beyond where the ship docks. Thanks for taking time to share such useful information.

[trish99]

This sounds like a terrific day. At first, like most folks, I was having problems figuring out what to do here. But, after doing some research here, I think it's going to be a wonderful port stop and more than just "another beach day".

 

Trish

[kingfish78734]

What a great review. I'm so glad you all had such a good time :)

 

John and Clackey.......looks like our little club of Merida and Progreso lovers is growing ;)

[xntric1]

we will be in Progreso in just a week or so. thanks for the review. i think it is an area the we will like/love. give us natural/authentic any day over 'developed special for the tourist'.

 

thanks!

[Traveler353]

Progresso is a wonderful old town. I really hate to see it become just another tourist trap. All one has to do in Progresso is be willing to get off the main road. Step inland just a couple of blocks and you find some of the best that they have to offer. Food, shopping, great little bars, cool shaded little parks and fine friendly locals that will proudly share their knowledge and culture with you. It sadens me to hear cruise ship passangers complain about Progresso not being just like Coz or any of the other pur tourist traps cities. I am afraid that in 5 years it will not be worth going to anymore. I just returned from my first visit there by ship. I have been there several times for longer visits by land and air and will returning in January for a two week stay with some friends that live there year round.

[Magic City Cruiser]

Traveler, I'm looking for a "beach bar" in Progresso. Nothing fancy, nothing wild and loud, just a place to hang out in the sunshine for the day. Can you recommend anything?

[hdawson]

Magic City. You'll find no Carlos & Charleys nor Senor Frogs in Progreso. Thankfully. You will find quite a few restaurants where you can have a few brews and some good very fresh fish and seafood. They will also serve you on the beach.

 

Traveler. Some of these folks would not have enjoyed Lahaina, Maui when it was just a small whaling village. Go figure. They just see what it's not instead of what it is. Authentic.

I really don't see any big changes in Progreso since their existance does not depend on tourism.

[hdawson]

Let me be clear. It's just a very few that complain about the day at Progreso. It will not be heaven for those looking for phony glitz or the typical cruise port chain stores or hanging out with a bunch of drunks.

[Magic City Cruiser]

Magic City. You'll find no Carlos & Charleys nor Senor Frogs in Progreso. Thankfully. You will find quite a few restaurants where you can have a few brews and some good very fresh fish and seafood. They will also serve you on the beach.

 

Traveler. Some of these folks would not have enjoyed Lahaina, Maui when it was just a small whaling village. Go figure. They just see what it's not instead of what it is. Authentic.

I really don't see any big changes in Progreso since their existance does not depend on tourism.

Thanks, when we get off the boat, can you tell me how to get there?

[hdawson]

The beach is a two or three block walk from where the courtesy bus will drop you. The resturants are along the Malecon (seaside street). Le Saint Bonnet, my favorite is about two blocks down the Malecon. The whole deep friend snapper is very good.

[cruisetobeaches]

Le Saint Bonnet has EXCELLENT food at a very reasonable cost and will be a 'stop point' in all of our future visits. (There are three coming up shortly).

[hillbillycruisers]

This whole deep fried snapper better be good, cause I've been telling everyone that is going with us thats where we are gonna hafta eat...it sounds like my kinda place!! Guess I'll find out in just over two weeks!! :)

[Magic City Cruiser]

The beach is a two or three block walk from where the courtesy bus will drop you. The resturants are along the Malecon (seaside street). Le Saint Bonnet, my favorite is about two blocks down the Malecon. The whole deep friend snapper is very good.

 

Le Saint Bonnett and snapper it is! Thanks, all!

[kingfish78734]

Le Saint Bonnett and snapper it is! Thanks, all!

 

You lucky dog!! I can't wait for our land trip to Progreso and Merida!

[hdawson]

Kingfish. Bad memory here. When are you going?

 

To everyone.

 

 

Happy Thanksgiving.

[Xokeman]

I am so excited about this port of call. I am ready to get wet and explore the town for all it is! thank you everyone for comments and all

[kingfish78734]

Kingfish. Bad memory here. When are you going?

 

To everyone.

 

 

Happy Thanksgiving.

 

We hopefully (still in the planning stages) are renting house on the beach in Chixchulub for a week in February or March. We are trying to work out our work schedules so we can go. Keeping fingers crossed.

;)

[tommy2tone_1999]

The whole deep friend snapper is very good.

Hdawson, we are all familiar with your favorite selection, and for those waiting to visit Progreso, we look forward to try the fried snapper at Le Saint Bonnet. There's got to be more to getting the whole fried snapper than just the snapper. Please describe your total experience at Le Saint Bonnet. How were you served, what came with the meal, and were ther any unexpected surprises that impressed you?

[YucatanToday]

Let me step in with my comments at St. Bonet is one of my favorite restaurants in Progreso: they have excellent botanas! Order your drinks and they'll bring you little plates of snacks like ceviche, dips, potato salad, etc. Read more about botanas here: http://www.yucatantoday.com/culture/eng-botanas.htm

[Kyzmette]

Okay, finally got the pictures uploaded. They're in my Photobucket, and kind of all mixed together, but the ones from Progreso begin shortly down the first page

 

This is the first picture in the Progreso/Merida/Dzibilchaltun area (if you're just looking at the pictures, it's the one right after the one of the fellow licking a woman's leg):

 

This is the last picture from this series, the one of Jose, our tour guide, who was truly fantastic to us (anybody would be lucky to have him as a tour guide):

 

And all that delicious food was gotten at a small place in Merida, and was so good I dream of it nightly. I can't remember the exact name of the restaurant, but if anybody's truly interested, I know it's on a picture that didn't get posted, and I can look it up.

 

The rest of the pictures are Cozumel on the beach, some from the Fantasy, and the four days we spent in New Orleans after the cruise.