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St Thomas or St John or Both


KBSunshine

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Hello!! I am going to be going on a cruise in January and one of the Ports of Call is St Thomas. I am not one for shopping or bar hopping (not that I mind the drinks :) ), but while I am in the islands I'd rather find good places to snorkel and beach hop! Should I stick to St Thomas or take a ferry over to St John? Can I fit both in 8 or so hours? Is it easy to set up snorkeling and transportation to various beaches and possibly islands (St. John). I am new to cruising and am just trying to get a feel for what I can do while there. Any advice, information, or suggestions on what to do or what beaches to go to would be greatly appreciated! Thanks so much!!!

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Thanks for posting this question. I was about to do the same thing. I even composed the message I was going to post already. :D

I'm wondering a bit about St. John after some travelguide reading last night. We have left St. Thomas open, figuring we'd either do a self-guided walking tour of the city, or take the ferry over to St. John to hike. Well, the excursions listed in the travelguide seem pretty expensive, which disturbs me because I wonder what is it about hiking on St. John that would warrant them charging so much. Is it something that we're going to have trouble arranging and doing ourselves?

 

The cruise ship excursion is $48 pp, which is actually a lot less than some of the excursions listed in the travelguide. Even so, what are they offering for that $48? I suppose they're offering priority debarkation. In St. Thomas, I cannot imagine that mattering much. The ferry costs either $3 or $7 (I cannot tell which, but whichever...) There is a taxi ride at the end of the hike, but heck I'd have to think it would be just as well to hike back, at least for avid hikers like my wife and I.

 

So does anyone know the situation with the beach (Honeymoon Beach)? Is there a fee for the beach or its amenities that is perhaps covered by the cost of the excursion? I think the beach is in the national park, so I'd suspect that there isn't a fee, or it is one of those nominal $3 fees that national parks charge up here.

We're also not into shopping or bar-hopping, and want to do something significantly physical at each port, so we can rationalize all the unhealthy food we'll be eating! ;) We're also not beach-hoppers, but I like the idea of hiking an hour or two, refreshing myself by going for a swim, and then hiking back and hour or two.

 

I hope we get some great answers to our questions!

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We have been to St Thomas several times and spent two weeks on St John for one vacation.

 

There are two ways to get from the ship to St John. One is to take a taxi ride to Red Hook (do not remember the time it takes, maybe 30 minutes) and then catch the ferry to Cruz Bay. The ferry runs hourly.

 

There is a ferry that runs from Charlotte Amalie to Cruz Bay as well. It takes about 45 minutes. I do not remember the schedule (think there is more information on other threads) but it is not as frequent as the Red Hook ferry.

 

Once on St John there are a number of beaches to choose. Trunk Bay is the most popular (and also the most crowded). It is very nice and has complete amenities. I personally prefer Cinnamon Bay which is right next to Trunk Bay. It is at least as nice, usually much less crowded and just as easy to get to. For both of these beaches you can get a taxi without difficulty right from the Cruz Bay pier area.

 

St Thomas also has very nice beaches (although IMHO St John wins).

 

Knowing the time involved in getting to St John and making the assumption you are there to relax and not rush I would not try to tackle both, but I am sure many people do.

 

Bicker 75% of St John is National Park, not just the beaches. I would think you could find plenty of hiking information online. I'm not a hiker (love to lay on the beach) so I can't give you better information.

 

Hope this has been helpful. If you have any other questions, feel free to ask.

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Unfortunately, the hiking information online has some gaps that leave me a little uneasy. We've got time constraints (arriving in port at 7am, leaving at 5pm). I spec'ed out some hiking on the west side of St. John, because it's all accessible directly from Cruz Bay, but my wife isn't all that interested in those. She wants to check out the trails closer to the center of the island.

 

That'll basically mean we'll need a taxi from Cruz Bay to Lameshur? And then can we rely on catching???? a taxi on Bordeaux Mountain Road or Centerline Road... just like in the middle of nowhere????

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Thank you all so much, I am headed to St John's for sure!!! If I make it back for some extra time at St Thomas, I will mill around there, but I think I see Cinnamon Bay and snorkeling and hiking in the near future 17 days to go!!!!! Happy Cruising!!!:)

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Bicker,

 

When we stayed on St John we had a car and did not use the taxis. Getting a taxi out of Cruz Bay will not be a problem. I would suggest you make arrangements for the taxi that takes you to pick you up at a specific point at a certain time. Other than that, I'm not sure I can offer any other advice.

 

Good Luck!

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Thanks for posting this question. I was about to do the same thing. I even composed the message I was going to post already. :D

I'm wondering a bit about St. John after some travelguide reading last night. We have left St. Thomas open, figuring we'd either do a self-guided walking tour of the city, or take the ferry over to St. John to hike. Well, the excursions listed in the travelguide seem pretty expensive, which disturbs me because I wonder what is it about hiking on St. John that would warrant them charging so much. Is it something that we're going to have trouble arranging and doing ourselves?

 

 

 

 

The cruise ship excursion is $48 pp, which is actually a lot less than some of the excursions listed in the travelguide. Even so, what are they offering for that $48? I suppose they're offering priority debarkation. In St. Thomas, I cannot imagine that mattering much. The ferry costs either $3 or $7 (I cannot tell which, but whichever...) There is a taxi ride at the end of the hike, but heck I'd have to think it would be just as well to hike back, at least for avid hikers like my wife and I.

 

So does anyone know the situation with the beach (Honeymoon Beach)? Is there a fee for the beach or its amenities that is perhaps covered by the cost of the excursion? I think the beach is in the national park, so I'd suspect that there isn't a fee, or it is one of those nominal $3 fees that national parks charge up here.

 

 

 

We're also not into shopping or bar-hopping, and want to do something significantly physical at each port, so we can rationalize all the unhealthy food we'll be eating! ;) We're also not beach-hoppers, but I like the idea of hiking an hour or two, refreshing myself by going for a swim, and then hiking back and hour or two.

 

 

 

 

I hope we get some great answers to our questions!

We just got back from St. John and enjoyed Salomon Beach and Honeymoon Beach. You can reach either one in about 45 minutes via the Lind Point Trail. The trailhead is immediately behind the National Park Service headquarters in Cruz Bay (ask the rangers inside if you don't see it). The trail is not too steep except at the beginning and the end since it mostly winds along a ridge top 100-200 feet above the water. You will not see much on the trail, though, as it goes through a dense forest. That's actually not bad as it is a shady walk. Salomon is the first beach and it is gorgeous (http://www.*****/stjohn/beaches_stj/beach_stj2.php). Palm trees growing out of the sand at the water's edge with plenty of shade. Salomon cannot be reached without a hike from the road so it usually has few visitors - their loss! Honeymoon Beach (http://www.*****/stjohn/beaches_stj/) is right around the point and you can walk along the rocks from Salomon if it is low tide. Otherwise you must walk back up the hill to the main trail since there is a tract of fenced private property (and a house) between them. Honeymoon Beach is a little longer with a slightly steeper slope of sand. Not as many palm trees but plenty of sea grape trees for shade. The best snorkeling from either beach two weeks ago was along the rocks on the east side of Honeymoon and continuing around the point (to the right if facing the water from the beach, toward Caneel Bay). We saw a squid, flounder and many parrotfish, as well as coral. Some of the smaller ship's excursion-catamaran boats dock off Honeymoon Beach but they don't stay too long. There is a parking area close by so it may have a few more visitors than Salomon. If you don't feel like walking all the way back to Cruz Bay, you can walk one beach further which is Caneel Bay. From there, you won't have any trouble getting a taxi back to the ferry dock (about $3 per person). There is NO admission charge for any of these beaches and you will see less than a tenth of the people you'd encounter at Trunk Bay. Take my advice and take a hike to these three beaches less than an hour's walk from Cruz Bay! They are beautiful and undeveloped (bring everything you'll need, including water). We figured the two of us spent less for the day than the ship's excursion price for one person, plus we could move about at our pace. At the end of the day, you can take the ferry from Cruz Bay back to Charlotte Amalie rather than Red Hook and shop a bit downtown if you're not too tired. If you don't feel like hiking, I suggest Cinnamon Bay over Trunk Bay as it is longer, less crowded, FREE, and has similar (restroom/concession) facilities.
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  • 2 weeks later...

Bicker - I don't think you'll get a cab to take you all the way to Lamesur; it is quite a drive. Best bet is to take a short out and back hike on one of the trails. I've been to St. John many, many times, and what I would suggest is take the ferry from Red Hook, rent a car, drive to the sugar mill ruins on the north eastish side of the island, then hike over to Waterlemon Cay (it is about a mile and flat), where you can swim around the Cay -- beautiful coral, starfish and (usually) turtles. Then if you're not tired, continue hiking around the corner....I think Brown Bay is over there, and is quite nice.

 

Either that, or go to Salt Pond. There is a Ram's Head trail hike that isn't too long, plus you can go to Miss Lucy's or even Skinny's for a nice lunch.

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Lind Point is an easy hike -- it begins behind the National Park visitors center and goes on to Solomon beach and / or Honeymoon beach. If you go all the way to Honeymoon, I'd guess it is about a mile or so. You will get to Lind Point, which is the northwestern corner of St. John. If you take a left at this point, you will come to the Lind Point Overlook. The British once built a fort at this point, and you can see part of it in a stone retaining wall. Most of the vegegation is scrub cactus and dry forest. Watch out for ketch-n-keep cactus -- the name comes from the fact that once it gets on your clothes, it seems to wrap itself around you (and you get to keep a large part of it).

 

The Caneel Hill trail is easily accessable from Cruz Bay, and takes you over the hill to Caneel Bay. The total distance is about two and a half miles, and as I recall can be a bit steep -- total elevation is over 700 feet, I think. The views are really spectacular, though. There is a bench at the top (or at least there used to be). Before this land was purchased by the National Park, it was used for pasture, and before that, to farm cotton. After about 1/3 of a mile, you'll come to a fork. Stay to the right (the other one catches up with Lind Point). At the top of the trail, if you have good visibility, you can see Puerto Rico over 40 miles away. Keep going east to the top of Margaret Hill after you have taken a steep descent down Caneel Hill. Lots of good views here. At the bottom of the trail is a very nice Tamarind tree to rest under. The rest of the hike is much flatter and cooler. You should come out at the entrance to Caneel (across the street). It is very easy to catch a cab here.

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Thank you!!! This is great information, and almost surely what we'll do. I like the idea of some strenuous hiking, and some not-so-strenuous hiking. :)

 

A few more questions, if you don't mind...

 

You say it is easy to catch a cab at the (west?) trailhead, after coming down from the top of Margaret Hill (just passed the Tamarind tree). (Do I have that right?)

 

I think our plan would be to do the Caneel Hill Trail first thing after we arrive (starting at 10ish, I suppose, given having to get off the ship, across to Red Hook, and then ferried to Cruz Bay). I think that would be about an hour and a half. Given that, we'll be looking for (ahem) facilities at that point. Would we really need to go back to Cruz Bay, or is there a way from that trail head over to Honeymoon Beach? And of course the next question: Are there restrooms there? If so, then we'd just take the Lind Point Trail "back" from Honeymoon Beach. Either that, or perhaps we'll take the taxi back to Cruz Bay anyway, just because it'll be getting to be lunchtime.

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Bicker, sorry, it was a bit early this morning when I typed that. Now I've had my coffee, and I'll be more clear!

 

The Caneel Hill trail starts about 20 yards from the Mongoose Junction parking lot. Once you get to the top of Caneel Hill (about 720 feet), you follow the ridge line east to Margaret Hill. Margaret Hill is another 100+ feet in elevation, although you will take a bit of a steep descent initially when you're coming off of Caneel Hill, then back up. At the lowest point between the two Hills is the Tamarind tree (a good place for a rest). Then, you hike up to the top of Margaret Hill. From there, you will see signs on your descent to the trailhead, but stay to the left. To the right there is a trail (sometimes overgrown) to the Water Catchment trail. Be sure to look for the native orchids and genip trees along the way.

 

Once you reach the trailhead, across the street will be the Caneel Bay resort. I've never needed to use their facilities, but I would suspect that there are some there you can use. There is a guard station there where you have to register, but are welcome.

 

If you continue on the road (turn right on the Northshore road as you face Caneel Bay), you will shortly come to Hawksnest Bay, where I know there are facilities (bathrooms and showers) and cabs readily available. I like Hawksnest Beach a lot.

 

You can easily get to Honeymoon Beach from the Caneel Resort. I would ask the guard for the exact directions, but it is back to your left once you enter the resort. There are not 'facilities' at either Honeymoon or Solomon.

 

While nude sunbathing is illegal in the USVI, if you're going to see it, you would most likely see it at Honeymoon or Solomon. Park rangers do patrol the area, and ask people to cover up. It is not that common, but it does happen. It is not that big of a deal.

 

Time permitting, I'd take the trail back via Honeymoon like you are planning.

 

There are many good places to eat in Cruz Bay. My favorites are the Fish Trap and Lime Inn -- just ask someone exactly where they are. Even better is the barbeque stand (you can't miss it -- it is right across from the post office). Excellent food there.

 

You're plan of catching the ferry is Red Hook is also what I'd do. The boat ride is long enough (about 15 minutes as I recall). I like to ride on top (when it is available and not rainy). Look for the small ticket shack to buy your tickets. They appreciate correct change. Have fun!

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Dont know if you have left yet but Ive been to St. Thomas twice with Carnival. The first time we shopped most of the day. The second time we went to St. John on our own. It is fabulous at Truck Bay. If your boat arrives before 9am ask a taxi to take you the the ferry at Red Hook which leaves starting at 6am, if after 9am the ferry is right in town and you will have to take a taxi to get there (very short ride). I cant remember the taxi and ferry cost but it was like $9.00 pp total. The ferry ride is about 45 mins. When you arrive at the pier in St. John go to the end that there will be plenty of taxis, a few bucks will get you to Trunk bay. Get your camera out the view as you climb the "mini" mountain is fabulous. Trunk bay is a national park and is in pristine condition. The water is calm and great for snorkeling (you can rent stuff there) Park fee was $10.00 I believe. there is a snack bar and showers. We took fruit off the boat for an afternoon snack. We were there in Oct of 03' and other than the Carnival shore excursion there probably were no more than 20 other people there. Check the ferry schedule to return as it only goes like every 30-45mins. Make sure you are getting on the right one. In the afternoon it will be better to return to town, stroll the shops (open until 5pm) then grab a taxi back to the boat. Even though you are not a shopper, shopping in St. Thomas is the best. This is the place to buy jewelry. The best advice is to research where you are going, you often spend precious time trying to figure out where and how to go. Shop hours are usually 9-5. No need to rush off the boat at 7 when nothing is open, unless you know about the early ferry in Red Hook!! See that 2 hrs of useful fun in the sun. Have fun!!

Hello!! I am going to be going on a cruise in January and one of the Ports of Call is St Thomas. I am not one for shopping or bar hopping (not that I mind the drinks :) ), but while I am in the islands I'd rather find good places to snorkel and beach hop! Should I stick to St Thomas or take a ferry over to St John? Can I fit both in 8 or so hours? Is it easy to set up snorkeling and transportation to various beaches and possibly islands (St. John). I am new to cruising and am just trying to get a feel for what I can do while there. Any advice, information, or suggestions on what to do or what beaches to go to would be greatly appreciated! Thanks so much!!!
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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Hi there, we are first time cruisers (w/two young kids) and I'm finding these posts very helpful.

 

Regarding the suggestion to take a ferry out of Red Hook because it leaves earlier.... I'm wondering what the temp would be that early in the morning out there. We want to have a full beach day and let our kids try snorkeling for the first time, but I hate to go too early and have to wait for noon for it to be warm enough, only to have to leave by 2pm in order to get back to the ship with time to spare.

 

Ya'lls advice is GREATLY appreciated. I'd hate to have my kids shivering for hours.:cool:

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It's been four years since I've been there - but when we did the same thing, my girls (then ages 8 and 10) wore swim suits with shorts for the ride over. (This was during Easter Break.) It was gorgeous even at 9am!

 

I hope that's still true 'cause we'll be back in late March.

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Thanks llarosa!

 

We are traveling the first week in April so your memories of that time frame are very helpful.

 

Our kids are 6 and 9 and decent swimmers, however we worried about how far out you have to swim to see anything (at Trunk Bay). Our concern is regarding currents that could be difficult or dangerous for the kids to swim in. Of course we will have them wear vests but still I fear they could drift away from us. Does anyone have any thoughts on this. We really would like to see Trunk Bay but with the comments I've read up here it sounds like Coki Beach on St. Thomas has more to see closer to shore.

 

Thanks!

Becky

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When my kids were about your kids age, I'd snorkel along side them holding their hands or holding the back of their vest. It really wasn't a problem. I've never been to the other beaches you mentioned, but had a great time snorkeling with the kids at Trunk Bay. We starting snorkeling with the kids when they were about 6.

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