Ducky_01

My DW and I are in our 40s, I am not new to Celebrity or cruising but my wife is/was until our first ever cruise on Celebrity Beyond last May in the Eastern Med. Funny story: we met Captain Kate in-person in Montenegro and, not knowing she was the captain, my DW shared her thoughts honestly - she told the captain she was apprehensive at first but fell in love with cruising as a holiday (although Captain Kate said choosing Beyond as your first ship set a "very high bar", and I agreed!). Key benefits of cruising according to my DW: the ability to unpack and relax/unwind right away, waking up to new ports that we otherwise would not visit on a land-based trip, and - most of all - the incredible service. I've cruised with X on and off for the last 10 years - they're definitely my preferred cruise line. As a point of comparison, we do beach vacations, staycations, and city trips (usually of one week or less). FWIW Here are my thoughts: - A transatlantic (which I did solo in 2015 on Celebrity Equinox) was incredible value for money and good fun especially when at sea, but bear in mind I traveled with friends that shared a love of boats, cruising, and all things nautical. X ships are amazingly well-designed, so they'd be my ship of choice for long TA journeys - I never thought drinks packages, suites, or even internet represented good value-for-money and I still don't think so; I do enjoy an occasional splurge at the spa, which was always overpriced but I think of as a vacation treat - I have seen the decline in MDR food quality (specifically, I find mains to be less colourful or vibrant, and lacking in seasoning). I also miss offerings that were once free or represented good value-for-money, such as room service or the fill-a-bag laundry special (my DW has no such comparison, and reminds me these would be at a similar cost if at a hotel, so in that sense we're not really missing out) - On the other hand, the newer X ships are more modern and seem to have more variety in entertainment? I also find the food portions to be just right, and I commend X for minimising food wastage and trying to control costs in that way (IMO, a win-win). I wouldn't say any of it particularly caters to our taste as Gen X-ers / Millennials although the ships themselves, due to their unique design, are very photogenic and the cruise cos are more tech-savvy (ex. must drills via the X app) - I have NOT seen a decline in the service - stateroom attendants, bar staff, waiters work just as hard as they did 10+ years ago and they deserve every penny we give in tips - Due to inflation, costs are rising on everything: flights, hotels, even cruises. You can add to that: food, dining out, gas, rent, etc. This is just life. Bar prices on Beyond seemed comparable to high-end hotels, and my philosophy on specialty dining is "take-it-or-leave-it" - no-one is forcing you to go, but for a special occasion the upcharge represents comparable value to an upscale restaurant (v. dinner at Applebees) and worth it when you consider the decline in MDR ... these are just my/our personal thoughts, I'm sure others will disagree. Will we continue to cruise? Yes! In fact, we're going on Celebrity Apex this spring. But I wouldn't say cruising is any better value proposition than land-based holidays, whereas that may have been the case some years ago. Just a different type of holiday and every once in a while, isn't it nice to have a change?

They were pretty steep, but of a consistent step height and there were handrails. There's also 3 separate entrances. We noticed people of all sorts of fitness levels, I'd just take your time up/down and take a break if necessary. People can go around. Hope you enjoy!

In case it wasn't clear in this part of my report, you must buy your tickets from the well-marked booths for SNAV and NLG, in advance of queuing for the ferry (they will also have independent schedules, although the departure and return times seemed to be roughly the same). As far as I'm aware, you cannot buy tickets aboard the ferry, and in fact you'll probably be denied entry if you don't have a ticket, which could be disappointing. Apologies, hope that helps anyone planning DIY.

OK, now for a dose of British cynicism 🙂 .. possible reasons for such a pleasant experience may have been (1) we travelled off-peak on the first sailing of the season and (2) the rains may have actually kept local crowds at bay in each port. So possibly factor "timing" in if choosing a similar itinerary? Happy planning!

And thanks for your review, as well! I enjoyed reading about the TA that preceded this cruise.

Epilogue. Firstly, thanks to everyone for your supportive comments on my first cruise report. Apologies it took so long to compile, I'm not one for spontaneity at the best of times. If you could please indulge me in one last post, I'd like to reflect upon what made this cruise in particular so great. DW said it best: a first-time cruiser, she always knew that I was going to enjoy this holiday, but she was pleasantly surprised by how much she loved this cruise as well.Why? We've already covered the ship, the ports, the officers and crew, the entertainment and activities, the food .. even the tendering. One last contributing factor put this ship over the top (or should I say, above and beyond.. pun intended 🙂), and that is: the passengers themselves.With all due respect, this is not a Carnival party cruise. But that isn't to say we didn't have fun on this ship. Nor is it a Disney family cruise. But similarly, the few families that were onboard seemed to really enjoy themselves. BTW, for those who complain about the lack of children's amenities, TBH I found most parents simply brought their children along with them, whether that was to dining on formal night, dancing at the Silent Disco at the Grand Plaza, or watching the amazing late-night theatre performances (and it was nice to see families together!).. think about it this way: would you ever feel that was safe or appropriate to bring your kids to the disco in, say, a big city? Since the first time they were recommended by my parents, I've found Celebrity just has a way of attracting a laid-back, unpretentious clientele of all ages and backgrounds (mostly Americans, Canadians, and Brits on this cruise). I disagree with the comments that X marketing is solely focused on a younger, affluent generation of vloggers (though no one seemed phased by me tinkering with a Gopro in the plunge pool 🤓). Ironically, I found the most tech-savvy passengers, those glued to their phones at times, to be "young at heart" retirees in their early 60s who gladly indulged in the Wifi package just so they could stay connected to their children and grandchildren. Were they uploading stories for all their followers on TikTok or Instagram? Probably not but if so, I'd follow them!Equally noteworthy was how polite and considerate most people were: despite the inclement weather we never found a lack of chairs at the Solarium (so no chair hogs), no one cut in line at the buffet or while queuing to leave the ship and while I'm sure many opted for beverage packages, we never saw anyone over-indulge in alcohol. Might our holiday have been different if we'd gone with Marella?The result is a friendly, easy-going and congenial group that we found to be more and more approachable through the course of the week. By the first sea day, we were already engaging in brief elevator chats with complete strangers, asking 'how are you enjoying your cruise so far'? And I feel they were genuinely interested! Later in the cruise, have you ever noticed that you also begin to recognize familiar faces? Like the friendly couple from the mid-west who waited patiently with us in the rain for a Celebrity bus to come rescue us in Corfu, and then cheered loudly when we just made the cut-off (sorry to those behind us). They told us how much they loved ballroom dancing, and sure enough, we found them on several occasions boogying on the dance floor! Or the friendly but quiet Quebecois couple on our excursion in Zakynthos, who didn't let language barrier prevent them from sending a friendly smile our way whenever we crossed paths on the ship. And then there was the group on our delayed outbound flight who shared the common bond of almost missing this cruise together - now, sitting at the bar in the Club as we waited for the next show to begin, we gladly swapped stories with the couple who sat beside us on the flight and we looked forward to seeing them on the plane journey home. It is true that a cruise ship is full of people, thousands in fact. Some naysayers will tell you that's a disadvantage of this type of vacation, but I think in fact it's the people that make cruising so much fun and enjoyable.So with that .. happy cruising everyone, thanks to everyone in this community for their helpful comments and suggestions, and I wish you all the best wherever your travels take you!

Day 8, Naples. Our final port-of-call (and the final part of my trip report .. thanks all for sticking with me, I hope you enjoyed reading this as much as I enjoyed writing it). To say it was a visit to "Naples" is a misnomer, as we never really left the terminal grounds, and spent approximately 40 minutes ashore - roughly the time it took to stroll 500 metres to the adjacent Beverello port and queue for a fast ferry to the island of Capri. This is incredibly easy to do on your own, as the ferry port is adjacent to, or possibly within, the Port of Naples (just on your left as you leave the impressive cruise terminal building) and in fact, I'm not sure what the benefit would be of booking this excursion with Celebrity as we all ended up on the same ferry to Capri and back? Two private companies (SNAV and NLG) operate direct ferries to Capri from Naples, the roundtrip journey will set you back €45 return, per person. At least at the beginning of the season, and on a quiet and cloudy Sunday, no reservations were needed. The journey takes less than an hour each way. You could presumably take one company's ferry there, and another's back (€22.50 one way, pp) but for peace of mind we just booked the roundtrip to have certainty of a spot on the return ferry in time for the ship departure. The ferry is uneventful .. and packed! Bring a mask if you're not comfortable with crowded places, and choose to ignore the snide remarks from fellow day-trippers about the gargantuan, modern cruise ships that come to Naples (I think they're mostly just jealous - it truly is an impressive sight to sail past your ship!) Supposedly a playground for the rich and famous, there is still plenty to see and do for ordinary folks on this charming and compact island. Everyone disembarks at Marina Grande, which makes it quite crowded. Instead of following the crowds to the funicular, we chose instead to take the public bus up the mountain to Anacapri. While you can do the same trip in a station wagon (UK: estate car) convertible-cum-taxi, we thought the cramped, bumpy ride by public bus (€2.20pp, one-way) only added to the charm. From Marina Grande pier, turn right and pick up your tickets from the well-marked biglietteria (the same one that sells funicular tickets) before joining the queue. Buses leave every 10-15 minutes. We knew this was going to be one interesting journey when the aggressive female driver (just stating fact, not opinion) backed the bus right into the steel stanchion holding up the awning over the queue, without flinching! 🙃 The ride to Anacapri takes about 20 minutes, and if you were standing, remember to hold onto something or someone tightly as the bus careens up the narrow mountain road. Every so often, as the driver slows down momentarily to take a hairpin turn, you can make out incredible views of the bay. We arrived with the mountaintop thick with dense fog, so the higher up we went, it seemed as if the bus was navigating its way through the clouds. The bus unloads at Piazza Vittoria, where it felt immediately less crowded and more peaceful. It is a short walk up the stairs to public toilets (€1 per entry, it helps to carry loose change!) and also the entrance to Monte Solaro chairlift (€14pp, return). We would suggest doing this only on a clear day - we decided to skip it since the chairs looked as if they were just disappearing into clouds and instead meandered down through the quaint, sleepy village (much less crowded than Capri) with a gelato in hand. The main shopping street loops around and back, and along the way you get a sneak peek into gardens filled with lemon trees and private orchards. From Anacapri, we decided to make our way on foot down the Scala Fenicia. The start of this walk is Villa San Michele, just follow the tour groups from the chairlift station as their guides lead them down a narrow, tree-lined street to scenic viewpoints overlooking the Marina Grande. Step through the arched entranceway and descend hundred of steps that hug the steep cliffs. On the way down, we met couples headed the opposite direction up, and based on the irritated looks that several wives were giving their husbands, we think that the way down is our preferred route (over the more arduous route up). When the path levels out, you can follow the main path back to Marina Grande, or else follow the path that veers right and goes slightly uphill - a short 20 minute walk, and you will eventually wind up among the shops and restaurants of Capri town. After enjoying the scenic viewpoint, you can then take the funicular back down to Marina Grande (€2.20pp, one-way), but before you leave town don't forget to try a delicious lemon sorbet, scooped out of a lemon! This was a great excursion to cap off our journey through four countries! Alas, it was time to go, and our last sail away was unfortunately a rainy one. We went back to Eden to enjoy the aft views from a dry indoor location - if you're into boats then this is a good spot to watch sailboats enter the nearby marina, as well as the ferries as they come and go from Beverello port. Evening. Once our bags were packed, we made one last stroll through the ship on our way to Cosmopolitan, the last main dining room that we had not yet tried (we went to each of the four MDRs, and enjoyed them all). Although there was no stated dress code, we were surprised to see so many fellow passengers make the effort on this evening to dress up in evening chic attire (how or where you manage to pack this before they take your suitcases away, I'm less sure). Our last bit of entertainment was perhaps the most fun .. Silent Disco Battle of the DJs! I must say, this event in Grand Plaza eventually attracted quite the crowd, and must have been a real sight to see or hear, even if just a bystander. We also thought it was a nice touch to schedule this on the final night, with consideration for passengers who may have been off early to bed for early AM departures. Tips for the day: For your last night, bring a smaller carry-on bag to hold a change of clothes, toiletries, and other essentials. For newbies, unless you intend to walk off the ship with all your luggage in tow, your stateroom attendant will request you pack your heavier, larger suitcases the night before, and they will take them away ~10PM. On arrival at port, they will be waiting for you when you disembark the ship. Forget a carry-on bag? No problem, just use the complimentary canvas bag in your room or else if money is no option then I suppose you could also purchase a bag at one of the expensive shops onboard? Bring a change of old clothes that you don't mind parting ways with. Here's another possible last-day hack: looking to throw away an old pair of trousers, or time to toss that shirt you never really wear at home? Bring them with you on the cruise to wear on the final day, and then you won't need to pack them up.. just toss them when you disembark! Skip Naples, and head for Capri. Unless you love the hustle-and-bustle of a big city, we think the island of Capri was much less crowded and a more charming excursion option. Don't be dissuaded by the large crowds that queue up for each ferry in Naples.. they tend to quickly thin out once on the island, and especially so the farther you travel away from Marina Grande.

Day 7, At Sea. (Thanks to all of you sticking with me, we're almost at the end of this report!). Since I already spoke about the ship and food on the first day at sea, I'd like to focus on Activities and Entertainment in this post. But let's start with a recap of the day: Morning. Those of you who have been reading from D+1 will know that this trip almost didn't happen, as we were among a group of UK passengers that were almost stranded in Rome on embarkation day. Well, the unfortunate consequence of waiting for UK-based passengers is that we tend to also bring the UK weather with us. Think: cloudy, drizzly, rainy. Almost every day. And this sea day was no exception. ☔ So I spent it in the best possible location.. in the Sea Thermal Suite, a product of the 24 hour guest pass I purchased the day before. First, the steamy Hammam. Then a Cold Mist or Tropical Rain shower. Then the dry Sauna. Rinse and repeat. If your idea of relaxation isn't indulging your skin through cycles of heat and moisture until it's as soft as a baby's bottom, then you may prefer my DW's option: lounging in the Solarium and reading a book, with a coffee in hand. Or perhaps doing more or less the same in your IV stateroom, enjoying fully enclosed, floor-to-ceiling views of the wind-swept, white-capped seas? We saw many, many "Do Not Disturb" (or X equivalent) signs affixed to room doors this morning. Art Auction. By the time DW and I met up in the Solarium, both of us were feeling very, very relaxed - a feeling which I hold directly responsible for what happened next: we went to an Art Auction! Situated on Deck 2, the Destination Gateway was repurposed into an art warehouse showcasing an assortment of pieces available for sale. If you've never been to a Park West Art Auction at sea, this was good fun and I would encourage you to go at least once as (1) you are under no obligation to buy anything and (2) there may be free champagne. The other thing we discovered: it's not really an auction per se, in the sense that you'd be bidding against others and the highest bid wins. Instead, each piece of art comes with a suggested price (discounted from an inflated retail price, of course). Then, you choose the ones that interest you the most, and you are free to privately negotiate with a dealer up until the moment that particular piece of artwork is featured on display (at which time the pressure ratchets up to close the deal). Agree to the deal, and you get to participate by raising your ticket number and then enjoying the satisfying sound of a gavel striking at the price point you've conveniently agreed upon (or else feel the sudden weight of buyer's remorse). If you're into art in general, you enjoy the thrill of haggling under time pressure, or you like the idea of attending an auction but worry as I did about accidentally bidding with an ill-timed cough or nose scratch, then I think this would be a relatively safe way to experience an "auction". If nothing else, come for the free booze and admire various works of art. If you do not intend (or cannot afford) to participate - no worries, just be clear with the art team up front that you have no intention to purchase anything, and try not to let the free-flowing alcohol get to your head. You know what they say about "liquid courage"! We didn't feel any pressure to buy even though the event was sparsely attended. Evening. This was the second "evening chic" night and as the week progressed, I feel as if more people glammed up for dinner, as well as to enjoy the evening entertainment around the ship. And, boy, were we entertained on this cruise! Here's just a summary of things that we thoroughly enjoyed.. D+1. Acoustic pop covers, from the live band at Eden. Then the Coronation Concert broadcast live-streamed at the Rooftop Garden. D+2. "Arte", an immersive production show at the Theatre featuring aerialists, singers, dancers, and acrobats with a recognizable "theme", set to even more recognizable tunes. D+3. White party, on the Resort deck (though we wish more guests had joined us!). Then the featured guest singer at the Club, a more intimate setting that felt like a private concert (turns out was amazingly talented, but already disembarking the following day, and so we regret missing her Theatre shows) D+4. "Elements", another full production show at the Theatre. This show was more avant-garde, and also featured the air fountain. Both Theatre shows that we enjoyed took full advantage of the immersive LED screen in an way that is simply indescribable. D+5. Jazz Joint at the Club (probably our least favourite show as it was more aggressive "burlesque" than fun-and-interactive "speakeasy"). Then the Martini bar show, with the juggling bartenders. D+6. None - we chose to take the night off, as we were exhausted after our excursion and relaxing in the Solarium/Thermal Suite D+7. "Yes or no" Game Show feat. Luigi, the Cruise Director. Then a Pub Quiz. Then Soultown at the Club. Here's just some of the events we missed: BOTH guest singers/performers, the illusionist, the comedian, the first Silent Disco, Deal or no Deal, UEFA Champions League matches streamed live at Craft Social, Latin dance party, every acoustic act at the Sunset bar, the experimental theatre shows in Eden, movies on the Rooftop Garden.. the list goes on and on. The full list of daily activities and entertainment was incredibly varied (tip: consult your Daily Planner early and often). I am sure there was something for everyone, and it simply was not possible to see and do everything. Perhaps most entertaining of all.. Captain Dimtrios, thanks to his dry sense of humour and perfect sense of comedic timing. Sample quip: "I am Greek. From Greece. I was asked by someone today, 'what language do they speak in your country?' We're going there [on this cruise]. I said to them 'God has somehow blessed you with money to enjoy this cruise with us.'" Hilarious. Here was another, during the morning announcement: "For those of you who have asked what today's weather will be, we have setup a hotline. It's 1-800-Get-out-of-your-room. Or if you've booked a Wifi package with us, you can go to www.getoutofyourroom.com" Tips of the day: Use the Celebrity App on your phone to control settings for your room. Did you know, you can control in-room lighting and the blinds with your smartphone via the Celebrity app? The app had the same pre-set lighting modes (e.g. Movie, Sleep, etc.) as the touchscreen control panel, and also individual lamp controls so you could turn lights on without having to get up out of bed. You could also remotely heat or cool the room, so that the temperature of the room was just right before you returned to your cabin. Do not dim the lighting while your DW is in the bathroom. For obvious reasons! "Movie" mode, in particular, will dim all living room lights to a very low back-lit setting but completely turns off the lights in the bathroom (oops, sorry about that). On select sea days, Eden Cafe is open for breakfast and lunch. We found this to be a nice casual option, if you get tired of breakfast at OVC or if you want something less formal than the main dining rooms. I recommend the Steak and Egg bagel (pictured) for breakfast, and the Pork Belly sliders for lunch (DW also enjoyed the Chicken Pesto sandwich).

I'll do my best to finish the report this week! Hope you get better weather, it's a great ship / itinerary 👍

Day 6, Zakynthos. Glorious sunshine awaited us on arrival to Zakythnos. ☀️ We were well-pleased by this, as we had booked to see Shipwreck Beach by boat, our one and only ship-sponsored excursion. When booking this on the X app, Celebrity had two similar excursions available: one by speedboat and one by "regular" boat. We chose the less-expensive latter option, which turned out to be a comfortable and spacious boat equipped with a marine head (read: toilet) and a glass-bottomed section. Furthermore, since the departure point - Agios Nikoloas - is first reached by a 45MN bus ride, I didn't feel the added cost of a speedboat was warranted (consider: both groups travel by bus, at the same speed) nor would I have wanted the boat to travel any quicker than it did as we enjoyed the shoreline views to/from Navagio beach at a leisurely pace. I recall both selling out prior to departure, but perhaps the Shore Excursion desk could arrange more availability? In the end, there were two full busloads that left for Agios Nikoloas and I think we were one of the first groups to leave the ship, by tender. The bus ride was very comfortable, but recommend you take motion sickness pills as one section of road is very windy. The tour guide assigned to our bus was a great storyteller but a relatively inexperienced guide. Ask him to tell you about the history of so-and-so church, or the great earthquake, and he would regale you with a fantastic tale! On the other hand, ask him where the toilets were in Agios Nikoloas, or if there was a local pharmacy back in town, and he couldn't tell you. Did he even do a headcount, when boarding the boat? Or on the bus, for the return journey? As is customary (or at least, I'd like to imagine so) if you are a guide responsible for dozens of passengers. To this day, I'm not convinced we didn't leave someone behind! Thankfully, two bus groups joined forces and we were adopted by the other, more experienced guide, who helped corral both groups and lead us together onto the boat. The journey to the beach was informative, and the views of the rocky coastline were impressive. Shipwreck (officially, Navagio) Beach has a story - if you believe the legend, then it was a smuggler of contraband who hit bad weather and abandoned ship. Of course, most people book this trip, not for the history, but for the amazing Instagram-worthy view of the secluded beach and cove, with the aging ship in the foreground. Just a few weeks prior to departure, I learned (courtesy this ship's roll call) that the Greek government had closed the beach for safety reasons, and so it was touch-and-go if this trip would proceed at all. In fact, the excursion tickets we received in our stateroom on D+1 came with a letter giving us the option to cancel. While it is true that we were unable to disembark or swim ashore, anyone who cancelled would have missed an opportunity for a fantastic day out. In fact, IMO the view of the beach was even more impressive without a horde of sun-seeking, selfie-taking tourists on shore, as no one is allowed to step foot on the beach itself. On the return journey, favourable weather enabled us to make a few more stops - our boat captain skillfully navigated us into an assortment of caves and grottos for an up-close look. We even made a quick stop for a few brave souls to jump in, myself included. I must say, the water was .. cold! But perhaps later in the year, this would be a more refreshing (read: sensible) option? One caution: we anchored in relatively deep water (~8-10 metres deep?), and although the seas were calm, it was recommended only capable swimmers take the plunge. We were soon back to Agios Nikoloas, and onto the bus back to Zakynthos town. We asked to be dropped off in town, and made our way back on foot to the tender dock. On the way, we stopped for lunch at a family-run restaurant, Taverna Dimitris on Agiou Dionisiou (not far from the Church of Agios Dionysios, there are several restaurants in the nearby square). When I say "family-run", the daughter waited tables, the father took our order / delivered our meals, and the mother is head chef. A truly home-cooked meal. Even their young grandson helped out by leading patrons to the toilets! A short 15 minute stroll back to the tenders, and we were back on ship by mid-afternoon. Although the island itself is quite small, and I heard some complain there was not much do see and do, we really looked forward to our visit to Zakynthos.. and it did not disappoint: the excursion was great, the weather was fantastic, the local food and hospitality was authentic, even the scenic tender journey with views of the ship standing majestically offshore, all made for a perfect port day. To cap it all off, once aboard I booked a day pass visit to the Spa Thermal Suite (free for Aquaclass guests) so relaxed in quiet and peaceful bliss during the pre-dinner hour, with hardly anyone else around, as we sailed off into the sunset. Tips for the day: Room service. Rendezvous for the excursion was 7:30AM, so the night prior we arranged for early AM room service. Continental breakfast - consisting of pastries, muffins, fruit, and the like - as well as teas/coffees are still free, hot food items will set you back a $9.95 service charge (+20% gratuity). We think this is still a good option on days when you need to have an early morning start. Otherwise, head to Cafe Al Bacio for your early morning caffeine fix, it's open from 6AM. Book water-based excursions with the cruise line. As a general rule, I've always booked anything involving the water such as scuba/snorkeling, catamaran day-trips, and this visit to Shipwreck beach by boat, with the cruise line. Can you book them cheaper if done privately? Yes, of course. But (1) I've always found Celebrity Shore Excursions to be highly organized, (2) you get priority leaving the ship, which is often necessary as such trips can last a full day, and (3) the ocean is unpredictable - you just never know what might happen when out at sea, and you can never guarantee that a boat can race back to shore or to the ship (at least not as quickly as a bus or land-based tour). So the guarantee of a ship-sponsored on-the-water excursion is IMO worth the premium. Aqua class - to upgrade or not? Spa Thermal Suite access cost $82 for a 24-hour period, $239 for the entire week, or else whatever the cost of upgrading to AQ class is! I realize there are other benefits of AQ class such as Blu and upgraded in-room amenities, but is it worth booking for the unlimited access to the Thermal Suite? On a port-intensive itinerary, I don't think I would use it enough to justify the additional cost. Had the MoveUp offer been any less, I may have considered it. Note that availability of passes for non-AQ guests is limited, and perhaps if the cruise had sailed full then they would not have offered any at all. I am grateful to have tried it, and since the pass lasted 24 hours, I got to visit once in the early evening, and then again during the next day (which just so happened to be a rainy day at sea).

Day 5, Corfu. We sailed away from Montenegro with surprisingly clear skies, with hopes the good weather would accompany us to Corfu. It didn't. On arrival to the port of Corfu, clear skies thickened again with cloud. This was a good day to pack the complimentary Celebrity umbrella, and a rain coat. This was also a harbinger of the partly cloudy, partly sunny, partly rainy weather we would experience the rest of the week (thanks to climate change). For all the criticisms levied against the design of the Infinite Verandah, on this cruise we really appreciated the ability to move the window up and down according to the climate. This was the first morning that DW and I tried the Oceanview Cafe for breakfast, which was busy without feeling crowded, if that makes sense? While the ship was at less-than-capacity, we thought some areas were well designed to disperse crowds, including the OVC. I think this is partly due to the "station" setup of the buffet, and also the different seating arrangements you could choose from (traditional sit-down chairs, bar-style seating, seats overlooking the window, etc.). Our favourite spot was the area at the entranceway on the starboard side - walled off from the main seating area, and tastefully furnished, it almost felt like a private dining room. We didn't do much research about this port prior to arrival, and given the weather we certainly weren't going to do anything elaborate, so we decided in the end to just take the shuttle from port to the town centre. After breakfast, I popped down to Shore Excursions to pick up tickets (€12 per person, roundtrip) - I found this option to be very convenient and reasonably priced, although I was later told by other passengers that you could take a taxi from port that would do the same trip for €10. While enjoying breakfast on the starboard side, we hadn't even realised another ship (Viking Sea?) had moored next to us until we left the ship. One nice touch: when we returned to our cabin later that day, our stateroom attendant kindly lowered the blinds, to afford some privacy as we faced directly opposite their ship. We appreciate this attention to detail, especially since housekeeping cutbacks mean your stateroom attendant now has to do more, with less (responsible for up to 15 rooms!) The shuttle bus conveniently drops you off right next to the Old Venetian fortress, so we decided to have a look around while the crowds were still light (€6 per person). We spent an hour or so inside the fortress grounds, visiting the church of St. George and also following the incline path up to the lighthouse - the fortress is situated on a rocky promontory with great views of both the town and the sea. We were glad we did this first, as there was a long queue of tourists waiting to enter when we left. From the Old Fortress, we walked through Spaniada Square to the Liston, an esplanade that is an entranceway into the town centre. The bistros along this street have both indoor and covered al fresco dining options, so we stopped at one for a mid-morning coffee. If you enjoy people watching, this is definitely the place to be. We found staff to be very friendly, washrooms to be very clean, and the prices to be very reasonable (compared at least to Dubrovnik). We wandered along the city streets, perusing souvenir shops until a lunch stop at a local taverna that offered homemade moussaka, saganaki (fried cheese), and stuffed vine leaves. After lunch, we continued window shopping until a sudden downpour signalled our time in port was up. Cold and wet, we found our way back to the bus drop-off / pick-up point and waited a looong time for our return shuttle (I counted two Viking shuttles before one Celebrity bus finally arrived). The ride back to port only took 10-15 minutes. Once at port, a second (free) bus takes you to the ship but we opted to walk. Sure enough, it rained on us. Once aboard, I struggle to recall if we warmed up in one of the hot tubs, relaxed at the Solarium, or a cozy nap in our stateroom? Hard to believe that was only a week ago? In any event, the skies started to clear again as we set sail for our next port of call, giving us some amazing sunset views from Raw on 5, where we enjoyed a light dinner of sushi, miso soup, and homemade lobster & shrimp wontons (a la carte pricing). Tips for the day: Take a shuttle, to the shuttle. A free transfer bus takes you from the ship(s) into the port terminal. It's a 7-10 minute walk otherwise. Then, once you pass through customs/immigration at the port terminal, just follow the signs to the shuttle buses to town. I suppose that's where taxis are also waiting? Shop 'til you drop (or until it rains). We found Corfu to have a compact town centre, and lots of good souvenir shopping. Don't be afraid to wander off along the side streets, you're bound to stumble upon good finds the farther off the beaten path you go, and while you may get turned around a couple times, you can't get too lost here. What about a thank you card? We packed a thank you card (or you could just as easily buy one in a place like Corfu), with a view to writing a personal note of appreciation to a crew member we felt went the extra mile - this eventually went to our hardworking stateroom attendant (along with an extra gratuity), though a case could be made for many of the deserving crew on this ship. Don't forget to complete the survey when you get home - we were told comments go to managers, but it's the ratings that impact the crew, the most. A caution about street beggars. This was the first port that we noticed children begging on the street, and one even came up while we were enjoying coffee at the Liston. Whether you give them something is a personal choice, but even if you don't, we try and be polite unless they become belligerent. I'd like to think most are innocent and harmless, and will leave after a firm "no" - has this been your experience? For me, it was also a reminder that we are really privileged to enjoy what we enjoy. Finally, when at port remember to watch your belongings at all times.

Day 4, Kotor. Montenegro was the first port on this itinerary to require tendering. Legend has it that the straits entering the Bay of Kotor were blocked by defenders during Venetian rule with chains to prevent large ships from accessing the port. I think the ship - anchored in the middle of the bay and juxtaposed with the mountains as a backdrop - made for some picture-postcard views, more so than if it had parked up on the shorefront. And I must say: with the Destination Gateway and Magic Carpet working in tandem, Celebrity have absolutely perfected the tendering process. Disembarkation was fast and smooth, "independent travellers" without any booked excursions were invited to join the queues not long after the ship anchored; a full fleet of comfortable tender boats meant there was very little waiting time. The scenic boat trip into town took 15-20 minutes. DW and I did not book any excursions because we knew we just wanted to explore the medieval old town (think: similar to Dubrovnik, but more intimate and, I'd say, charming). We were most interested in doing the scenic hike up to the Fortress of Kotor, weather permitting. We had awoken to overcast skies looming overhead, but by the time the tender docked we could see clouds breaking and some blue skies so we went straight to the trailhead towards the back of the old town. How to get to the trailhead: the walled town is a warren of narrow streets so from the Sea Gate entrance into town, the best directions I can provide are to take any street heading uphill in the direction of the mountain and you will eventually find the archway that takes you to the turnstile entrance. Or ask the locals. Or Google "Moritz Eis", the boutique ice cream parlour that is kitty corner to the trail entrance (and also a just reward at the end of the hike). Cost is €8 per person (and it may surprise you to know, as remote as the ticket booth may seem, they gladly accept card payments). The hike to the fortress takes approximately 1 hour, and is many, many steps. There is an angled cobblestone / loose gravel ramp adjacent to the steps almost the entire way up, but this can be quite slippery when wet. About one-third of the way up, you will stumble upon a scenic overlook in front of the Church of our Lady Remedy. The views here are as good as they are at the top, so if you're only interested in a photo op then this would be a fine stopping point. I'd suggest you do the rest of the hike to the fortress for the exercise, or else the thrill or satisfaction of reaching the top, but not necessarily for better views. DW stopped at the church, and patiently waited while I hiked to the top, and she didn't miss anything. On a warmer sunny day, bring plenty of water. Now is a good time to mention: while you do not need a guide, at every other switchback along the trail it seems as if a cute cat with googly eyes will kindly greet you and volunteer to lead you a stretch of the way before motioning you onwards with a soft purr, or encouraging 'meow'. How the locals have trained these furry, feline companions to look cute and pose for pictures, I do not know. I'm not even a cat lover, but you have to admit.. they're adorable! They're also everywhere. Cats on the window sill. Cats in front of souvenir shops. Cats lounging in all the public squares. A stowaway. One particular kitten, sitting meekly in the middle of a cobblestone street, caught our attention, as well as that of another lady who happened to be carrying a bag of cat treats. I thought that somewhat strange, for someone by sheer coincidence to carry treats around with them? Even stranger, she was obviously not a local. In fact, on closer examination, she was wearing a Celebrity Beyond fleece so must have been onboard with us, perhaps even part of the crew? As we got up to leave, I looked even closer and thought 'boy, does she look familiar' so I asked, innocently, "Wait, are you with the ship?" She replied "Yes". And then it dawned on me where I recognised her. "Are you Captain Kate?", I asked excitedly. She smiled and nodded. Lo and behold, I was talking to Captain Kate! It suddenly dawned on me, those treats must've belonged to Bug Naked. 🐈‍⬛ It all made sense, now. Except it didn't. Captain Demetrios had been introduced as captain on D+1, so what was Captain Kate doing aboard? She kindly explained that she was on vacation, and stayed on the ship so she could actually visit some of the ports that they would sail to later this season. In some technically challenging ports such as Kotor, the captain is required to stay aboard for safety reasons. Consequently, on this cruise, we had a very noticeable stowaway, of sorts. 🙃 At the time, DW was unaware of Captain Kate's celebrity (no pun intended). So, as if speaking to just an ordinary member of staff, DW was genuinely effusive about how much she was enjoying her very first cruise. We both admitted to Captain Kate that a "high bar" of expectation had been set by the ship. Most of all, she seemed to really enjoy hearing how much we appreciated the care and attention of all the crew. Since she was on vacation, we left it at that and didn't request to take a selfie, but I think this anecdote just underscores how approachable all the officers and crew were.. including their most recognizable captain! Tips for the day: Local Farmers market and supermarket. Don't miss the local vegetable market just outside the old town wall. If you proceed farther along the wall, you will eventually pass the remains of a moat and drawbridge entrance into the Old Town. Beyond that, at the next intersection, is an Idea supermarket where you will find candy, snacks, water or drinks (at local, non-tourist prices). From there, it is a short stroll along the promenade back to the tender dock. Be patient with the tendering process. As smooth as it was, docking manoeuvres can be complex. For example, our tender captain had to circle a few times before lining up for a smooth connection to the Magic Carpet. Please adhere to all safety instructions from the crew. You may also need to be a little patient, and note that the tender isn't well ventilated, so on hot days suggest you carry some water. The port of Kotor is very doable on your own. Some may disagree, but it didn't seem to me as if there was much else to do in this port but explore the Old Town? It will not take you very long to do so. We were told by others back on the ship that Budva beach was only 20 minutes away, so maybe that would be an option? Otherwise, just enjoy the leisurely pace of a visit to Kotor (as we did).

Day 3, Dubrovnik. Our first port-of-call on this sailing, and there was a palpable excitement among passengers. Perhaps this was because of yesterday's weather at sea, and everyone wanting to get off the ship, or else a genuine interest in the port of Dubrovnik itself? Whatever the case, we were scheduled to stay a good long while in Dubrovnik (leaving at 9PM), so this afforded many options to explore the city and/or the surrounding area. For us, we were just happy to take our time: DW had a well-deserved lie-in, while I inquired about port specials at the Spa. For the uninitiated, port days are an excellent time to explore the ship as it empties of passengers and often any services, such as the spa, are readily available and often discounted. We took our time in the morning, with a leisurely Spa Cafe breakfast and then indulged in 75MN "top-to-toe" (read: full body Swedish) massage appointments, courtesy of some excellent therapists. IMO, this was the perfect way to start the day! Fully relaxed, we sauntered off the ship around noon and took the convenient shuttle transfer from port to the Old Town. The Old Town of Dubrovnik has been around since the age of Game of Thrones. 🙃 (I'm only guessing, I didn't pay attention when they discussed the history). 🙂 We walked the Old Town walls, and highly recommend this. There are three entrances, the most popular being right as you enter the city's western Pile gate, not far from where the shuttle drops you off. The ticket booth is to the right of the gate, while the entrance up the wall is directly opposite, next to the church (€35 per person, but well worth the cost). Obviously designed to protect the city's inhabitants long ago, the walls now succumb to a different kind of invasion.. tourists! At least they don't destroy the place, do they? 😉 The walk affords breathtaking views of the city roofs, rugged Dalmatian coastline, and nearby Lokrum island. Tip: as soon as you climb atop the wall, your first inclination will be to take as many photos as possible. Suggest you walk a bit along the wall first, as the crowds get less congested and the views are just as good, whatever direction you choose to go (at the time, they suggested you walk counter-clockwise). There are coffee shops, souvenir stalls, and even a toilet stop along the way. While you can exit the walk at any of the 3 entrances, circumnavigating the entire course means you can enjoy views of the Old Town from many different perspectives. IMO, there's no need to leave the Old Town as there's plenty to see and do within the walls, and the more modern city outside seemed less noteworthy. We found a local restaurant off one of the side streets serving fish stew and a Dalmatian platter (dog lovers need not worry - it's basically prosciutto and seafood nibbly bits), washed down with a (local) beer or glass of rosé. After lunch, we wandered the side streets to the Old Town harbour where we had a coffee and stopped to people watch, as this seems to be the port for local ferries. I started to develop a sore throat, so I popped into a pharmacy for eucalyptus lozenges. I also took this opportunity to buy a soda from a local corner store. Tips for the day: Count your steps. It felt as if everything in Dubrovnik was either uphill or involved steps, so you do have to be somewhat fit to follow this itinerary. I made the mistake of doing a morning jog, leading to sore calves by the end of the day! Get lost in Old Town. We found the back streets and narrow alleyways of Old Town to be just as interesting, if not more, than the main street where most of the tour groups herded their flock. Also, the restaurants seemed more authentic, when off the beaten path. Don't worry if you lose your bearings as you traverse the windy streets.. you're inside a walled city so you cannot get lost, and we think that's part of the fun of exploring a town like Dubrovnik. Simply follow the wall to make your way back to an exit or to the main thoroughfares. Skip the shore excursions, but do take the Celebrity shuttle bus. The ship didn't sail until late evening, which left plenty of time to explore the city or do a full-day excursion on your own, without worrying about missing the ship. If just exploring the Old Town, the ship-sponsored shuttle was a very reasonable $12 per person (round-trip) with a convenient drop-off/pick-up outside the city gate. Celebrity even staffs a signpost, so you know exactly where to catch the bus for the return journey. Stock the minifridge with your own beverages. Ask your stateroom attendant to remove the minibar items, and then use the in-room fridge to keep cool any sodas or beverages you bring onboard. On embarkation day, I believe you're allowed up to two bottles of wine that you can consume in your room without paying corkage (had we not been in such a rush to board, I would have purchased some soda or sparkling water, too). Does anyone know the rules around bringing soda or water onboard from ports-of-call? We did this on occasion, and security didn't say anything. Cook your own pizza at OVC. In the evening, we decided to forgo main dining, and since the buffet was closing we just went to the pizza station in the aft section of Oceanview Cafe. Did you know, you can make your own pizza? Don't have the ingredients you're looking for at the pizza station? No problem - if you choose ingredients from the salad bar at the buffet and bring them back, they will gladly add them. This is how we ended up with a delicious made-to-order Hawaiian pizza with fresh pineapple and jalapenos, on Mexican pizza night 🍕

Day 2, At Sea. (OK, thanks for being patient with the long lead-up to an actual trip report) 😊.. I think this would be a good day to talk about the ship, food (though we are not foodies), and activities. Mostly because it was an unusually drizzly day, as we travelled down the "boot of Italy" and through the straight of Messina. Two early observations by DW and I: (1) even as early risers, you will not be able to participate in every activity - there's just too much to see and do - even on a sea day (tip: the Daily Planner on the Celebrity App is your friend) and (2) the resort deck is really, really empty in mildly inclement weather. Sure, you can't sunbathe but you'd be surprised how quickly you forget about the cold and rain once you're in the pool or hot tub, or working up a sweat on the multi-story jogging track. There are, of course, many indoor options on a rainy day, not least of which was the pool and whirlpool in the Solarium. Now, I always enjoy a friendly chat with passengers from around the world; but I think the following conversation takes the cake (I hope you enjoy the fun and hilarity of this chat as much as I did).. Here's what happened: an older lady, a young man and his wife, and I were relaxing in the Solarium hot tub. Turns out they were newlyweds, and he was on his honeymoon (awww!). He was very chatty, and made a passing observation to the older lady that started with "the only thing about my wife is.." This caught my attention (I'll remind you that his wife was sitting in the hot tub.. right next to him). Uh-oh. The older lady looked at me, wide-eyed, before she leaned over to him for clarification: "you mean, your wife, who is sitting here right beside you?" Obviously, a very kind and desperate attempt to get this poor young man to never, ever finish his sentence. Ever. But he continued, blissfully unaware of the ground (or bones?) that he was about to break: "the one thing about her is how she second-guesses all these little things that could have gone better during the wedding". Oh boy. I thought, 'Yeah, including choice of husband'. I expected a cold hard stare, possibly dagger eyes, from his wife. But in the end, she casually brushed off the comment, smiled at him gently, and said "it's nothing, just a little hindsight". Wow, I thought. With that sort of grace and patience, they are going to be married a loooong time. 🙃 Morning. I took this opportunity to meet DW, who had gone to the gym for an early morning workout, at the Spa Cafe for healthy breakfast options (she had something green, possibly kale juice ... if you can juice a kale?). For a lighter meal, in lieu of a visit to the ever-busy Oceanview cafe, consider the Spa Cafe for delicious carrot or bran muffins, as well as juice options ($6-8 for fresh-squeezed juices or smoothies). We explored the ship together, meandering aft to admire the views as we neared the Straight of Messina. I know Celebrity's tag line is/was "Modern Luxury" but this ship is contemporary in a way that is truly difficult to put in words. Take Eden, for example, a beautiful and airy space on decks 4 and 5. Not only is Eden filled with lush greenery, literally up to the walls, but on the angled "ramp" between decks 4 and 5 it contains all sorts of seating options (think: how you might furnish your outdoor patio at home) to take in 270 degree sea and wake views. An excellent rainy day option, and also a good acoustic space, we found ourselves back at Eden several times during the day (don't miss the Eden cafe when open on sea days) and also in the evening for live entertainment and specialty dining. One caution: there are a surprising number of steps in the multi-tiered space, so not all sitting areas here may be wheelchair accessible. By coincidence, we arrived at Eden during one of their Captain's Club appreciation events, which meant .. free drinks! Ignoring the fact that it was only 11AM, and with DW's consent, I indulged in a Cosmo and an Apple martini as well as light hors d'oeuvres (also free). I do not recall this featuring in the calendar, but do recall ignoring the card that was in my room on the day of embarkation inviting me to attend. A reminder, if you suffer from #fomo: you'll want to read the various papers left in your room by your stateroom attendant (not least of which would be a print version of the Daily Planner that we received every day of the cruise, for you traditionalists that still prefer paper over digital). Also included when you arrive in your cabin is a complimentary locket from Effy, one of the many jewelry shops found on ship. I thought it was a gimmick, but as it turns out, my DW enjoyed collecting the complimentary charms each day of the cruise (visiting the store daily came with the obligatory raffle ticket, to lure you back every evening, though we never won). All free to participate and good fun, though I'm sure it would have come with a sales pitch had my DW not been so determined not to buy anything. Evening. Dress code on sea days is "evening chic". This is interpreted many different ways: some get suited-and-booted in a formal tuxedo or ballgown, while others just wear their favourite hoodie. Go figure. Most wear trousers (US: slacks), a suit and tie, or something dressy or chic. We followed suit (no pun intended), and found this to be a nice opportunity to wear something in the wardrobe that we otherwise wouldn't, and to feel nice doing so. Our suggestion: whatever feels right for you, go with that! With such eclectic tastes these days, you won't feel out of place. Food. I'll reiterate, we are not foodies (sorry to disappoint). But we tried both main and specialty dining, and enjoyed both. On D+1, we visited Normandie as the wait at Cypress was too long (tip: you do not need to reserve at any of the main dining rooms, and even if you do the reservation is meaningless. Just show up and either be prepared to wait a little or, if not, then just choose the dining room with the shortest queue). Despite the reports of cutbacks and reduced portion sizes, we found the food to be tasty and satisfying. My only observation: food was less colourful or vibrant than I recall on past X cruises; perhaps this is due to fewer or simpler ingredients? In any event, it did not disappoint us and it came with the usual friendly and attentive wait service that I think is Celebrity's hallmark. On D+2, we went to Eden ($60 per person or an astronomical $160/pp two-hour tasting menu). The service was just as good, and you could tell the quality, attention to detail and food presentation was, on the whole, better. This reminded me of main dining on past X cruises, but my DW had no other reference point - we both enjoyed it. Was it worth the price of admission? I guess that's you to decide. Special shout-out to waitress Michelle at Eden, who let us try an assortment of starters in lieu of the tasting menu. Here's some food pics, maybe you can tell which were main dining v. which were specialty?

So... I forgot to add the pre-cruise tips or "lessons learned" at the end of my initial post. Here they are, and hope this helps you avid trip planners.. Never book a flight on embarkation day, but DO consider booking flights through the cruise line. An obvious lesson from my pre-departure story, but given the VUCA world we live in I would book at least a day in advance as suggested by so many of you. And despite the opaque reservation and misinformation on-the-day, I would still consider booking flights/transfers direct with FBC. If nothing else, the feeling that someone else is taking care of that aspect of travel and will help you if anything goes wrong, gave us a peace of mind that I think is worth the premium. Unless, of course, you are an adrenaline seeker who likes problem solving and thrives on stress - in which case, I will cheer for you as the next contestant on the "Amazing Race" (UK: "Race Across the World"). Do the math, before but not on your cruise. I know this isn't for everyone but I'm an accountant by trade, so thoroughly enjoyed searching for the best deal, and making it even better. Example: comparing the costs of a Marella and Celebrity cruise (not as far off as you think), watching prices before the final deposit (price drops were applied twice, and I got to speak to some very friendly X agents 😊), deciding at what price point a MoveUp offer was worth it (it wasn't). Similarly, we rationalized Wifi and Beverage packages, and were comfortable with this decision by the time of the cruise so that we didn't worry about being nickel-and-dime'd by extras once aboard (you will be, but it's OK, you've budgeted for it and you're on holiday!). Get advice from others. I had the help of good friends who take TAs annually and extolled the virtues of cruising to DW and I; hopefully you have similar friends who share positive experiences about cruise travel. Though there are many enjoyable ways to see the world, I really do believe cruising is for everyone! Also, I found it helpful to watch Youtube videos of the ship and ports of call. Special thanks to: Emma Loves Cruising, Paul and Carole Love to Travel, Cruise Buoys, and World Wild Travel (am I allowed to share links on this forum? If not, just search them on Youtube) "Accessorize" your cabin. Finally, in addition to the obvious (OTC meds, sunscreen, etc.), here's some things in picture that I found really helpful to pack (see if you can tell what it is, or let me know if there's an "essential" in your cruise kit)