Market - Hours? Pushy vendors? Is it safe? Enough to do on foot?

[Violet May traveler]

We will be arriving in Grenada on Caribbean Princess on Thursday, 12/10/09. Be there from Noon - 7 p.m. We were trying to avoid taking a tour since we have booked ones on several other islands. Is there enough to do around town at the market & other shopping areas? Will the market be open then - I read somewhere that it is best on Saturdays & before noon? Is there also a flea market there or is it only the produce type market? Are the vendors pushy & is it safe for us to walk around town? I'm sure we would see more on a tour ( I know Mandoo is highly recommended - we might be interested in the Spice tour) & we would consider it if there is not much for us to do & see in town. Thanks for any helpful info you can give me.

 

Violet May

[IslandStar]

This reply may have a few contradictions so I apologise in advance.

 

The town of St George's is relatively quiet in terms of things to do - absolutely dead on a sunday for those arriving on a ship then. You are correct the Saturday market is the best time to visit as there are spices, produce and the fabulous flowers on sale. During the week however in cruise season it is generally spices and flowers but the flowers tend to go early. Bartering in the market is not not generally done as the prices remain fair - remember the average wage is US$300/year so cruise liner season is key for the people to supplement their wage a little so they bring whatever they are growing in their gardens and sell where they can. Check the prices of the spices in mall before you leave it as the prices in there are generally fair and that way you will know if the seller in the market is trying it on or not. If they are tell them of the price in the mall and see how you go.

 

Grenada has a strong British and French history so manners and courtesy are generally key. Always say good morning or good afternoon before starting a conversation and you'll be onto a good start. Personally I find Grenada to be the friendliest place in the Caribbean and it is genuine but you do have to start in the right way. I tend to find the Spanish and the Americans tend to forget this bit and generally don't have the same good natured experience the rest of us get. They get politeness but they don't get the real friendliness the people convey. Hassle in the terminal can be a bit annoying but a few firm 'No thank you's' and you will be fine. If you don't want Mandoo (although he is excellent) then as you go through the mall there is a booth with the Taxi Driver Association and they also can tailor the tours to suit what you want to do and your timing. They are also very good, knowledgeable and courteous.

 

What can you do in St George's once you've done your Spice shopping?

Sitting on a naturally formed bay, the Carenage is quite pretty to walk around but it's hot and the best restaurant for people watching The Nutmeg has now closed down. It may open under new management but at present it is still closed. Two ways to get there up/down hills (it a mountainous island remember) or cut through the Sendall Tunnel (out and right of the mall)

 

Overlooking the approach to your cruise ships and the entrance to St Georges is Fort George. Fabulous views from the top of the Lagoon, The Carenage, the town - both sides, your ships etc. Take a drink up with you there is no bar at the top. There are plans but they have not come to fruition yet. The roof to Catholic Cathedral should be on by the time the season starts but there's still a way to go for the Anglican one sadly.

 

The town is still not geared up for tours yet and as such there are no designated walks you can follow - I believe the Board of Tourism is working on this. Now that you've done town you can either head for the hills on a tour or head for the beach the beach. Grande Anse beach is x2 miles of pure white sands - normally uninhabited until the cruise liner people descend onto it ;) I believe it is US$2.50 for a one way water taxi to and from the beach. Again you can't miss these guys trying to get you onto a water taxi as you arrive off your boat. When you get to the beach (on a jetty which has been repaired - was missing for a few months last year after bad storms) there are a few bars and restaurants but if you want to be a bit quieter then walk to the right and keep going until the beach gets more quiet.

 

Also on the beach near where they drop you off there is the Grande Anse market where vendors have a small village of stalls for food, drinks, jewellery, carvings, spices etc etc. don't leave the boat with only US$1 if you want to buy a souvenir as it's a long way back to the boat.

 

Another thing to do is get a bus from outside the mall and go to Morne Rouge Beach (one bay further on than Grande Anse) this will couple a drive and a relatively secluded beach until the Rhum Runner Party boat turn up and shatters the peace :cool:

 

The vendors can be a bit of a pain but just be polite and they do tend to concentrate on the busy areas of the beach. No-one is offensive and remember they're just trying to get food on the table. The island is suffering from the recession and unenployment is taking its toll. There is no social security and so if you don't get a dollar for food you don't feed your family. The island does not get the influx of the big bucks US boats at all so the island is not geared up comercially like all the islands north of Puerto Rico - but this is why it retains its Caribbean Charm :o

 

Before you arrive (or leave your home town) go on Trip Advisor and check out what there is to do when in Grenada and above all enjoy your day!! Hope this helps. If you have any other questions let me know.

[Violet May traveler]

Island Star - - Thanks sooooo much for you wonder post. It was extremely helpful. I was disappointed to learn the Nutmeg was closed. It was on my to-do list. Any other suggestions of a nice place to sit & rest, enjoy a view, cool off & have something refreshing to drink? Is the market & mall just off the Princess dock? If not, how do you get there? What time do they close (we don't arrive till noon). Thanks again for letting me learn from you. Violet

[IslandStar]

My pleasure:) Nutmeg was a fabulous place and normally cruisers had to wait for tables alongside locals as the food was great. I ordered a roti and was full for a week!! I've been racking my brain for a Nutmeg replacement:confused: and I'll be honest I'm struggling to think of something in town. Sadly St George's has a way to go to be anywhere near cosmopolitan in terms of cafes and bars. If anything opens in the meantime I'll write a post but......

 

If you want to stay in town then head through the tunnel and head for the Carenage - once at the water look right and you'll see a grill place - forgotten the name. It is on the water and the drinks are fine and the view is good and the breeze is cool. The waitresses on the other hand need a good lesson in customer service although they may be more attentive in Cruise liner season.

 

Heading out of town, my favourite place to hang out is now over the water in the Lagoon at Port Louis Marina. Contrary to popular belief the prices are the same as elsewhere and the food is yummy. Cheap way to get there is to walk round the Carenage and then flag down a local bus (No 1 I think) It should be no more than EC$2.50 (it may be even less but ask) for them to take you from the carenage to the entrance to the Marina - it's the normal bus route but check with them.

 

Tip for all reading this you will be flagged down by busses and taxis and you will probably be fed up saying no thanks but they are all polite and friendly and only trying to make some money :p. The way to tell the difference is that a taxi only has the driver, will probably be empty and you need to confirm price before you get in. A bus will probably have locals inside, be blasting local soca music and has a conductor/chap to open the door and tell you where to sit. Enjoy it - it's fun and a real way to experience the good road systems of Grenada

 

OK back to places to hang out. Port Louis has a small pool and some glorious yachts to go green over but after that there isn't much else to do there just yet. So you could (water taxi to beach US$2.50/go local on bus EC$2.50) head for Grande Anse beach and head for Garfields Bar and hand out on some of the best sands on the island - its also away from all the other cruisers who don't tend to stray too far from the water taxi dock.

 

Actually at the water taxi dock on the beach is a place called Coconuts and is a favourite of mine when the cruisers aren't in - it's very busy when they are so walk down the beach (turn right) and keep going till you find Garfields.

 

As you come off your boat you will walk through the cruise liner terminal. they are currently building a link between the two sets of buildings (great) so there's a fair amount to see but you've probably already experienced it on the other islands. The main thing in Grenada is of course the spices and there are places inside (check prices here so you know what the vendors outside will be selling at too - or possibly less) and then head outside past the Subway and the Marios Pizza place to the front door. Cross the zebra crossing and go up the street (keeping the mall behind you) go past Kentucky Fried Chicken on your right and you are in the market. Be prepared it has not been revamped for quite a while so it is basic and small but has flowers, spices etc.

 

You may be asked to buy a spice necklace (do definitely barter for these as the guys will start in US$ rather than $EC for them. They are a lovely souvenir though and last for ever. I still have mine from x3 years ago and they still smell great once they have their periodic hot bath :D

 

If you need any other help then let me know. Wow just re-read this one - I think I'll write a Cruisers Guide - ha ha

[Violet May traveler]

Thank you again Island Star for your wonderful review of Grenada. I truly appreciate all your time & knowledge. It is going to be a wonderful trip! Just one more question if you don't mind. Does everyone - vendors, buses, taxis- except US$ or do we need to exchange somewhere for $EC?

[IslandStar]

US$ are accepted but you will get your change from everyone in EC$. If you are fast and great at maths then good otherwise I would go to the bank to exchange.

 

The standard bank exchange rate is US$1 = EC$2.67

There is no charge in the bank (right next door to exit of shopping mall) for straight cash exchange but there is for travellers cheques/cards etc.

 

Have a wonderful trip :cool:

[Violet May traveler]

Thanks again Island Star for all of your extremely helpful info. I can't wait for your Cruise Guide to be published!! Ha! I certainly think you could write a great one! You have made the island come alive for us. Now I even know where the bank is. I know we will have a wonderful time on Grenada! Can't wait to buy a spice necklace.

[Can'tstopcruising]

Island Star, you are a wonderful ambassador for Grenada!

 

Question: are the spices equally fresh and of the same quality, no matter where we buy them? I love the cinnamon.

 

My necklace needs the hot bath! I think someone said to quickly dip them in and out of boiling water. Is that correct?

[IslandStar]

Thank you for your positive comments - I'm truly in love with Grenada, the island, the people and everything about it - just in case you couldn't tell :p

 

Yes it was me passing on how to renew the necklaces. I just checked mine and whilst the hot dip does work the scent isn't as strong as coming back and buying a new one.

 

As far as I am aware all the spices are just as fresh everywhere you go. The thing that would probably differ is the packaging so if for friends and family buy the nicely packaged gift packs - if for you the stuff in plastic bags works just as well.

[jaybird from SC]

Thank you for your positive comments - I'm truly in love with Grenada, the island, the people and everything about it - just in case you couldn't tell :p

 

Yes it was me passing on how to renew the necklaces. I just checked mine and whilst the hot dip does work the scent isn't as strong as coming back and buying a new one.

 

As far as I am aware all the spices are just as fresh everywhere you go. The thing that would probably differ is the packaging so if for friends and family buy the nicely packaged gift packs - if for you the stuff in plastic bags works just as well.

Thanks for all your info..You mentioned Sunday which is the day our ship will be in port. What can we expect on a Sunday? Do any of the businesses open? Thanks again..

[IslandStar]

Thanks for all your info..You mentioned Sunday which is the day our ship will be in port. What can we expect on a Sunday? Do any of the businesses open? Thanks again..

 

 

Sunday is a two-edged sword as far as I am concerned. Most shops are shut and there is no market so it's actually a great day for just mooching round the town, heading up to the churches, the fort, round the carenage etc and not being overly hassled.

 

On the down side most stuff is shut except the mall you arrive in so it is rather a let down if you want to shop. There is enough in and around the mall itself if you're after some souvenirs or spices so don't panic.

 

Otherwise take a tour or hit the beach and relax. There is a vendors market on the beach which has some lovely hand crafted goods so don't fall for the cruise liner's 'only take a dollar' as I know a number of people who were disappointed once on shore that they didn't have enough cash.

 

The bank will be closed but there is now a new ATM machine int he mall - no idea on the exchange rate though.

 

Hope this helps

[Kikkycat]

IslandStar, thank you again for your wealth of information. We will be in Grenada on Serenade of the Seas in early February, 2010 and I'm just starting my advance research. I love to cook, so I'm very interested in stocking up on spices. I know I'm likely to see nutmeg and cinnamon. What else can I expect to find?

 

PS we have booked the Spice tour with Mandoo.

[IslandStar]

IslandStar, thank you again for your wealth of information. We will be in Grenada on Serenade of the Seas in early February, 2010 and I'm just starting my advance research. I love to cook, so I'm very interested in stocking up on spices. I know I'm likely to see nutmeg and cinnamon. What else can I expect to find?

 

PS we have booked the Spice tour with Mandoo.

 

· Grenada produces 12 different spices: cloves, ginger, cinnamon, black Pepper, Clove, Musk Ochra, Sapote, Sesamu, Tonka bean, Vanilla mace & Nutmeg.

· Nutmeg is the most important with Grenada producing 40% of the worlds supply

· It is versatile spice and is exported for use in top restaurants and beauty products. There is also nutmeg oil, jelly, jam, soap.

· Nutmeg is also exported for numerous patented medicines. It has been used to treat pain, digestive problems, as an aphrodisiac, combating asthma, heart complaints and it is also used as a sedative.

· It takes 6-7 years for a new tree to bear nutmegs so it will still be some time before Grenada regains its position as the No2 exporter in the world.

[jplewis]

Island Star, thanks so much for all your interesting information. Thanks for taking the time to share with us.

Patsy

[Kikkycat]

Wow! I thought I had nice diversity in my spice cabinet but I've never even heard of some of those varieties! I guess I need to do my research. Ginger, clove, cinnamon and nutmeg and I are all well acquainted. :p

 

For the record, I have emailed Mandoo twice and both times he has responded to me the same day. I'm looking forward to Grenada very much!

[IslandStar]

Thanks for all your info..You mentioned Sunday which is the day our ship will be in port. What can we expect on a Sunday? Do any of the businesses open? Thanks again..

 

Apologies fort he delay in finding out about this one JaybirdfromSC. The stores in the cruise mall will be open on the Sundays but don't count on much outside I'm afraid

[Valen9]

Thank you so much for all this great info! I'm looking forward to visiting Grenada. I think it will be nice to be somewhere that's not all sanitized for the tourists.

 

I'll be arriving on a cruise ship on a Tuesday in December. My plan is to shop for spices, visit the market, and maybe have lunch someplace interesting and not pretentious. Based on your advice here, I plan to:

 

- Study up on spices and decide what I'm going to buy. Also get in touch with foodie friends and see if they want anything. Nutmeg is a must.

 

- Print out this forum and see if I can find the locations you mention for resting and people-watching.

 

- Plan to pick up some EC as I exit the ship, or at least be prepared to get change in EC and do some math.

 

- Shop for a spice necklace! (never heard of that before) And be prepared to haggle for that item.

 

Are there any other interesting crafts or local items I should look for? Would I have trouble trying to bring back mangos or other fruit?

[IslandStar]

Actually some of the nicest things i have seen are the brown coral bracelets and pendants that the beach vendors make themselves. Now before everyone has a go at me it is not coral. Although it is from the sea it is more like a tree or plant root that they work with and then polish. Very beautiful especially if you get one with some fabulous grain in.

 

Mango season is over i am afraid :(...it is avocados galore at the moment:p

 

have a wonderful trip and don't forget to post when you get back as Grenada needs all the promotion it can get.

[Aplmac]

Question: are the spices equally fresh and of the same quality' date=' no matter where we buy them?

I love the cinnamon.[/quote']In the Mall that's connected to the cruise terminal

I came across multiple spices, attractively packed in a calabash shell! ;)

 

.

[Can'tstopcruising]

In the Mall that's connected to the cruise terminal

I came across multiple spices, attractively packed in a calabash shell! ;)

 

.

 

Aplmac, are you in Barbados or Grenada?

 

Those look like very nice gifts. But, for myself, I like to buy the spices in a jar. The jar holds quite a bit and then I have it for a longer time. Cinnamon is the one I use the most.

 

Island star, is Mathilda still selling pareos on the beach? We had so much fun with her, that I bought one that I didn't need, she showed me how to wear it and we photographed each way. Then when we wanted her in one of the photos, she wanted extra money. We told her we overpaid her enough already!

 

Another time, we saw med students spending time with groups of youngsters. That was very nice to see.

[Aplmac]

Aplmac' date=' are you in [b']Barbados or Grenada?[/b]

I live in Barbados

but was visiting family in G'da Oct. 30th. - Nov 3rd.

when I took the pic of the spices.

 

Then it was on to Trinidad for a wedding!

 

Quite the jet-setter I am..

travelling by wretched L.I.A.T. the regional bus service in the sky

that won't even turn on the air-con in the passemnger cabin

during hot afternoon flights. :mad:

 

Just thought I'd get that little public service announcement in, while I can.

.

[IslandStar]

Aplmac, excellent comments on LIAT. Can't believe they wouldn't put the aircon on...but then again!!! I guess all the islands are waiting for the new ferry service to really get going.

 

Can'tstopcruising - I don't think there are many outlets that have spices in jars. They are mostly in the calabash shell (for larger quantities), coconut shell (for smaller amounts) or little boxes. The island doesn't blow glass so I guess they would have to import and the taxes are high for that. This is probably the best way for you to get them home and then get some jars there - sorry

 

Mathilda still selling pareos on the beach? Gosh there are loads of vendors now so I'm not sure. blooming cheek to ask for more money after buying stuff already.

 

The medstudents working with the kids ont he beach and in the water is a regular thing and I believe the kids are actually from the various orphanages so it's doubly great.

[Valen9]

Thanks so much for the pictures! They make me worry, though; saffron, paprika, red peppers, and oregano are hardly things I'd be going to Grenada for. (Plus that saffron looks to be of very low quality, and makes me wonder about the quality of the nutmeg, mace, cinnamon, and ginger in there.)

 

Did you see anyone selling the spices separately further along?

[IslandStar]

I would go to the market where you wil able to buy fresh ginger in its root form. Also ask when int here that you want fresh stuff not the packaged that is int he mall. The nice folks will help point you in the right directions to find stuff. It may not all be available though. Best of luck.

[John Bull]

Another thing to do is get a bus from outside the mall and go to Morne Rouge Beach (one bay further on than Grande Anse) this will couple a drive and a relatively secluded beach until the Rhum Runner Party boat turn up and shatters the peace :cool:

.

 

Errrr, yes, ......well .......ummm .....sorry about that.:o

But we only stay for about an hour.:)

Cheers:D

John Bull