Overseas Adventure Travel (OAT) Adriatic Winter Cruise aboard M/V Athena

[MeridianSkipper]

Bottom Line First. Our best cruise yet largely because of the efforts of the OAT team and the wonders of Croatia.

We recently returned from OAT’s Adriatic Winter Cruise and were most impressed with the level-of-service and timely program adjustments made to provide passengers the best possible experience. The ship’s crew (from captain to engineman) could not have been more helpful or courteous. The Trip leaders (TL) were extraordinary working tirelessly to provide extra events such as hikes to viewpoints and local bus excursions to outlying towns.

Pre-trip.

We selected Zagreb for our pre-trip, and thought the choice a mistake until we experienced life in Croatia’s capital city. Travel writers, such as Rick Steves, are way off the mark, when they comment that Zagreb is worth just a few short hours. Instead, our visit gave us great insights into the lives of the Croatian people. The city offers visitors fine museums and galleries, excellent shopping, and many dining adventures. Moreover, tram service is free for those over 65.

Had we not received such fine service from the young lady who served as OAT’s hospitality desk/trip-leader person, we might not have enjoyed Zagreb as much. She gave our small pre-cruise group of four sound advice, arranged events such day trips to Varazdin Croatia and Ljubljana, Slovenia, and accompanied us on city tours and a tram ride to the bus station, pointed out restaurants and other food purveyors, and made an extra effort to ensure we were more than adequately armed with important information (e.g., bus/train schedules, ticket costs).

Shipboard Experiences.

Mostar. The shipboard adventure began with an eight-hour bus ride from Zagreb to Neum, Bosnia Herzegovina. The following morning, we traveled to Mostar were we enjoyed an excellent tour of the city followed by a lunch stop near a Sufi retreat house.

Most of Mostar’s war damage has been repaired but enough remains to make the horrors of war vivid.

Korcula. A pretty place adequately described elsewhere (see Thread OAT Artemis Zagreb to Athens of 17 December 2009). The ladies went crazy buying coral jewelry.

Dubrovnik/Kotor/Cavtat. Kotor was our planned destination, but rough seas necessitated a program change, which diverted Athena to Dubrovnik. That beautiful city then became our base-of-operation for three days. Our first day included a city tour and a home-hosted dinner. On the following day, we traveled by bus to Montenegro. Our visit to Montenegro included excellent views of black mountains *and the Bay of Kotor (better seen from a bus that a ship), a walking tour of Kotor’s old town, and lunch in Budva.

*Montenegro translates to Black Mountain

Day three was a day on our own (sort of). We took a local bus (easy and inexpensive) from the port into town, revisited places of interest, watched pre-Lenten Carnival activity, and ate dirty-macaroni. Dubrovnik’s Carnival featured well-mannered crowds, children in costume, marching drummers, and dirty macaroni (thick pasta topped with a wine and meat sauce) prepared by local restaurants. Later in the day, our TLs led us in a trip to Cavtat. Cavtat, a seaside resort 15 km south of Dubrovnik, offered pretty views and still more carnival activity.

Hvar. A pile of rocks under heavy rain (see earlier posting 0f 17 December 2009)

Split (beautiful city with a Roman palace as its centerpiece). Our stay, in Split, included a walking tour of Diocletian’s Palace and the surrounding old town, and a walk up Marjan hill to get a panoramic of the city. Exploration musts include a leisurely walk through the palace and its embedded old town and people watching on the waterfront Riva.

Sibenik. This resort city has suffered from economic decline and its people project something of a hard edge. Nonetheless, Sibenik offers some interesting churches, medieval buildings, and narrow, winding streets. Our stay included a walking tour, a climb to a fortress and still more carnival activity featuring a parade made up mostly of costumed* grammar-school children, and the burning, in effigy, of a figure representing “all things bad.”

*Pirates, fruits (apples, pineapples, carrots), Charlie Chaplin, frogs, cowboys, cowgirls, harem girls, dancing cats, cats, Indians, bears, bugs, medieval knights and ladies, etc.

KrkasNational Park / Ethnoland (Optional Tour). The park features a woodland setting with a series of small and relatively large waterfalls. The trails offer a moderate challenge, which didn’t seem to deter tour member who suffered from mobility problems.

Ethnoland provides visitors with insights into Croatian country life. The adventure included welcoming grappa, potent homemade wine, dry cured ham, great bread, and a donkey who thought he was a house pet.

Zadar. Zadar suffered from World War II carpet bombing, and as a result it has a more modern feel than other towns and cities visited. Modern feel notwithstanding, Zadar is a well-kept, pretty place with city walls, beautiful churches, a harbor filled with yachts and a fishing fleet, Roman ruins, and an open air market.

Zagreb. Our final stop before heading home.

After Thoughts / Suggestions.

Adriatic Winter Cruise Weather. When traveling during winter to an area located between 42 and 46 degrees north, one must expect adverse weather. Consequently, we were not surprised when confronted by moderately cold, wet weather. The weather varied from cold and wet to almost balmy. On the positive side, we never encountered crowds.

Sea States. Adriatic northwest and southeast winds can bring squalls accompanied by high sea states. Given the uncertainty of the weather, a medicate-early strategy seems warranted for those who suffer from motion sickness. After, a rough and uncomfortable morning, DW took appropriate steps to ward off sea sickness.

Dress. Layered clothing works and unless the sun is shining a rain protective layer is a must. Appropriate shoes are also a must (water repellant, good traction and support).

Physical Demands. To get full benefit from an Adriatic Winter Cruise, one must walk and stand for long periods. Pre-cruise conditioning seems to make sense.

Activities that Enhance the Experience.

- Time permitting, ride a tram or local bus, venture out of town on a train or inter-city bus

- Eat like a local. Croatians appear slim but eat on-the-run often; stores offering good thing to eat seem to appear ever 100 meters.

- Buy a $6 print from Zagreb’s Naïve Art Museum even though you might never intend to frame the print

- Duck into café for a coffee or cappuccino

- Visit the open air markets if only to admire the flowers

- In Zagreb, walk the streets of the upper town especially those to the right and left of the main square (interesting shops featuring local artisans / great areas to watch the locals)

[Barrheadlass]

My husband and I are taking this trip in Jan '11 so were delighted to read your report! Thank you! How was the 8 hour bus ride...nice scenery? Boring?

Janet

[MeridianSkipper]

OAT broke up the bus trip with stops so I thought it generally interesting.

[Barrheadlass]

Our cruise starts in Zadar instead of Neum which equals shorter bus ride!

Thank you for replying.

[Barrheadlass]

another question...

How was the food? Just curious. Also, I see you've booked a HAL Alaska cruisetour for Sept...so have we!

[MeridianSkipper]

I'm not fussy (too many years on aircraft carriers where we might have starved if they lost the ladle). The food was quite good though not as fancy as one might experience on a big ship. Breakfast and lunch were for the most part buffet style. The evening meal did not feature large portions, which I thought a good idea.

For those of us who awake at dawn or earlier coffee and rolls were always available. The coffee got me moving, and often took an early morning stroll.

[MeridianSkipper]

See OAT Artemis, Zageb-Athens trip report. The reviewer did a super job of describing details concerning food, crew service, and basic ship characteristics.

[Barrheadlass]

Thanks!

[billdog]

My husband and I are taking this trip in Jan '11 so were delighted to read your report! Thank you! How was the 8 hour bus ride...nice scenery? Boring?

Janet

Just saw your post and noticed you said you are going this month. We will be going as well leaving the US on the 31st and starting in Zagreb on Feb, then to the ship in Zadar on the 2nd.

Is that the same trip you will be on?

[Barrheadlass]

Hi,

We're leaving next Tuesday, so you will get on when we get off. We received a list of all the passengers a couple of weeks ago...if you haven't gotten yours yet, you will soon. There were folks who live only about 45 minutes from us (southeastern MA) and folks from all over the US. Have a wonderful trip! I am soooo excited. Have been checking the weather, and it has been cold in Zagreb (although up to 44 today) and nearly 60 while on the ship. Am wondering if I really need the long underwear I purchased.

Janet

[Barrheadlass]

Your website is terrific, Bill and Toni!

[MeridianSkipper]

Just wondering how the winter cruise came off.

[Barrheadlass]

Hi,

The entire cruise was fantastic! We loved every thing about it. Had a fantastic guide, Alan, and great group of 49 passengers. Weather was cold, but wasn't a problem...we had to leave Montenegro 1 day early because of it, and spent an extra day in Korcula. Croatia is such a beautiful country...so much fun seeing snow on the mountains and palm trees on the coast. We'd recommend Overseas Adventure Travel and would travel with OAT again any time.