Trip Report, Viking Elegant Elbe, Clara Schumann 3/27/2010

[DonfromNC]

I intended to write a full review but probably never will, so I hope this will suffice.

 

My wife and I were on the Viking Clara Schumann “Elegant Elbe” March 26 through April 5 from Prague to Berlin. As has been covered here before this is Viking’s smallest and oldest ship in European service -- necessarily small because the Elbe is not a large river. It is very well maintained. The Schumann has chair lifts to all floors including the top deck which many of the Viking ships lack and they were appreciated by several of the passengers. The rooms were small but adequate. A few people were surprised by the room size, but only those who have not visited this board or read the cruise brochures. The room size was a running joke among us, but it didn’t seem to be a real problem for anyone. The cruise director, Martin, was very good and presented several interesting seminars during the trip. We also enjoyed the musician, Vladimir.

 

This is not a cruise most people choose as their first and thus the passengers on this cruise were a very well-traveled group. We dined with a number of different people, and having read the negative comments about Viking on this board I asked each night about my tablemates’ impression of the trip and the food. I can say I got not a single complaint. Without exception they complimented both the trip and the food. After the trip we shared a van to the airport with two other couples, both of whom had taken trips with at least two other well known river cruise lines, and they both said that this was better than any of their previous experiences. Of course it’s been said that the best cruise is the one you’re on, but this surprised me.

 

Comments: First of all, late March, early April is too early for this itinerary. The weather was cool and dreary much of the time (highs in the 50‘s or low 60‘s). The trees and flowers were not yet out. Many of the gardens and attractions don’t open until April 1 so we missed a couple of gardens. We were at Worlitz Park April 3 (Easter Saturday) and were practically by ourselves. It was like they opened it just for us. The gondola ride was nice but would be much better a month later. Of course there’s something to be said for being there off-season when nothing is crowded with tourists.

 

The weather was not a surprise to us. We wanted to go late April or May, but those months were fully booked before we got around to making our plans. It came down to March or July and we figured we’d rather be a little chilly than too hot. The river level was high but receding which interfered with docking in several places (ramps under water or bus parking area covered with mud where the water had been).

 

Second, I wouldn’t recommend this as a first river cruise. If you look at a map it’s not far from Prague to Berlin so there’s a lot less actual cruising than on, say the Danube or Rhine; you don’t get the full cruise experience. If, like us, you’ve already been on a couple this one is a nice change of pace. There is a lot of history, several beautiful small towns and being entirely in the former communist zone it’s an area most people have not been to before. We were expecting a lot of run-down areas, but the Czechs and Germans have done a marvelous job of upgrading their villages and buildings since the wall came down.

 

Third, if you have trouble with stairs be sure you’re on the top floor. The restaurant is on the first floor, but is accessed only by going down from the second floor. If your room is on the first floor you have to go up to the second and back down to the first going to and from the restaurant. There are chair lifts if you need them.

 

Overall my wife and I rated the cruise highly. It seemed to be a little more hectic than others. There always seemed to be something going on; not much downtime. We learned a lot about German and Czech history, Martin Luther and the Reformation and life in the eastern bloc during and after the communist era. It was our first time in Berlin and it was much more than we had expected. We need to go back and send more time there.

 

Let me know if you have specific questions.

[pacmom]

So glad you enjoyed what I think is a hidden gem of River cruises and what to me is Viking's best cruise in Europe--Russia and China are in a class by themselves. The Schumann will be renovated again this winter--will have a few suites and stationary twin beds in the other cabins. Pat

[maltese mickey]

I intended to write a full review but probably never will, so I hope this will suffice.

 

My wife and I were on the Viking Clara Schumann “Elegant Elbe” March 26 through April 5 from Prague to Berlin. As has been covered here before this is Viking’s smallest and oldest ship in European service -- necessarily small because the Elbe is not a large river. It is very well maintained. The Schumann has chair lifts to all floors including the top deck which many of the Viking ships lack and they were appreciated by several of the passengers. The rooms were small but adequate. A few people were surprised by the room size, but only those who have not visited this board or read the cruise brochures. The room size was a running joke among us, but it didn’t seem to be a real problem for anyone. The cruise director, Martin, was very good and presented several interesting seminars during the trip. We also enjoyed the musician, Vladimir.

 

This is not a cruise most people choose as their first and thus the passengers on this cruise were a very well-traveled group. We dined with a number of different people, and having read the negative comments about Viking on this board I asked each night about my tablemates’ impression of the trip and the food. I can say I got not a single complaint. Without exception they complimented both the trip and the food. After the trip we shared a van to the airport with two other couples, both of whom had taken trips with at least two other well known river cruise lines, and they both said that this was better than any of their previous experiences. Of course it’s been said that the best cruise is the one you’re on, but this surprised me.

 

Comments: First of all, late March, early April is too early for this itinerary. The weather was cool and dreary much of the time (highs in the 50‘s or low 60‘s). The trees and flowers were not yet out. Many of the gardens and attractions don’t open until April 1 so we missed a couple of gardens. We were at Worlitz Park April 3 (Easter Saturday) and were practically by ourselves. It was like they opened it just for us. The gondola ride was nice but would be much better a month later. Of course there’s something to be said for being there off-season when nothing is crowded with tourists.

 

The weather was not a surprise to us. We wanted to go late April or May, but those months were fully booked before we got around to making our plans. It came down to March or July and we figured we’d rather be a little chilly than too hot. The river level was high but receding which interfered with docking in several places (ramps under water or bus parking area covered with mud where the water had been).

 

Second, I wouldn’t recommend this as a first river cruise. If you look at a map it’s not far from Prague to Berlin so there’s a lot less actual cruising than on, say the Danube or Rhine; you don’t get the full cruise experience. If, like us, you’ve already been on a couple this one is a nice change of pace. There is a lot of history, several beautiful small towns and being entirely in the former communist zone it’s an area most people have not been to before. We were expecting a lot of run-down areas, but the Czechs and Germans have done a marvelous job of upgrading their villages and buildings since the wall came down.

 

Third, if you have trouble with stairs be sure you’re on the top floor. The restaurant is on the first floor, but is accessed only by going down from the second floor. If your room is on the first floor you have to go up to the second and back down to the first going to and from the restaurant. There are chair lifts if you need them.

 

Overall my wife and I rated the cruise highly. It seemed to be a little more hectic than others. There always seemed to be something going on; not much downtime. We learned a lot about German and Czech history, Martin Luther and the Reformation and life in the eastern bloc during and after the communist era. It was our first time in Berlin and it was much more than we had expected. We need to go back and send more time there.

 

Let me know if you have specific questions.

Thanks for the input. My husband, sister and brother-in-law and I are going on the May 8th river cruise. Did a Danube cruise in the 90's which we enjoyed. Have done a lot of "big" cruises and look forward to this.

[Jesterscourt]

Great review Don. I can't believe your trip came and went! I was curious if you had enough passengers to go to Terezin when you stopped in Litomerice. I wonder if it made a difference going from Prague to Berlin instead of the other way around as we did. I notice you had a different cruise director but had Vladimir for entertainment! (did you buy his CD?)It's kind of corny but I play it once in awhile to remind me of the trip! Steve

[DonfromNC]

Maltese Mickey -- I hope the river and the volcano cooperate and you have a wonderful trip. Mid-May should be the ideal time weatherwise.

-----------------------------

 

Jesterscourt -- Due to high water and work on a lock the river was closed between Litomerice and Decin. We actually boarded the ship in Decin thus missing the first few miles of the cruise. We were in Decin overnight and were bused to Lito for the included tour. We were docked one block from the square at Decin and Martin took us on an impromptu walking tour of the small town.

 

The optional Terezin tour was a "go" this time. I suspect the number of people who sign up is more a function of the passenger demographic than the direction you are traveling. The optional Bauhaus tour at Dessau did not have enough people sign up, but the included tour drove us around the Bauhaus area and pointed out the school and several faculty houses which was a learning experience for me -- not previously very informed on the Bauhaus movement.

 

Don

[Jesterscourt]

Don, it's interesting that you were taken on an impromptu walk in Decin. When we docked there overnight they discouraged us from getting off the boat but some of us walked around on our own even though it was a little seedy at night. During the day, you probably had a chance to really visualize the imposing white castle over the town.