Smuggler's Cove or Jost Van Dyke?

[khm1]

My family and I will be on the Serenade in January '11. Our first port is Tortola. It will be a new port for us. I will be traveling with DH, DS-15, DS-13, DD-3. We are very experiences cruisers, swimmers, and snorkelers.

 

I have done a lot of research on this port and I have narrowed down to two options. We do not want to do Virgin Gorda's Baths due to the age of our DD. We also want to stay away from Cane Garden Bay.

 

Option 1: Take Tortola Charters to Jost Van Dyke's White Bay. It leaves from the cruise dock so no taxis needed. It costs $55 for adults and $40 for the kids. The trip lasts 5-7 hours according to the website.

 

Option 2: Take a taxi or rental car to Smuggler's Cove. We are interested in snorkeling and an uncrowded beach with at least a beach bar. As I understand it, this beach will fit the bill.

 

 

 

 

Questions:

• Will we be able to find a taxi with seatbelts? This is esential since I will not allow my DD to be transported unless she is secured in her booster seat, which we will bring with us.
  
• How much are taxis for the trip to Smuggler's?
  
• If we rent a car, is the driving any worse that driving in St. Thomas or S. John (I have driven on both several times)? If it is worse, I don't want to try it.
  
• IS White Bay much better than Smuggler's Cove and why?
  
• Is there sorkeling at White Bay?
  

Thanks in advance for your replies!

[ricks2047]

I have not been to Smugglers Cove so I can not comment on that.

 

JVD white bay does not have very good snorkeling. It is a most beautiful beach, but not for snorkeling. I don't think your kids will be that happy there. The soggy dollar bar is there as well as Ivan's and Foxy's the next bay over. But not really a great kid place.

 

I think that driving on Tortola was comprable to ST Thomas and St. John. But our taxi was loosing traction while going up the hill to Cane Garden Bay, and we were all afraid that we were going to slip backwards back down the hill.

 

All the taxis that we took while there had seat belts.

 

As far as the baths are concerned I wouldn't cancel it out because of the three year old. The snorkeling there will be great and the 13 and 15 year olds would simply love the place. From the sounds of your experiance, to me the baths is your best choice.

[vakamalua]

Just back from renting a house in Tortola (2nd visit). Had a car and traveled all over the island. If you rent a car and drive anywhere on the island, be sure it is 4 wheel drive. The island is hilly and some roads become dirt/gravel.

 

White Bay on JVD is NOT a kid's place. The beach is lovely but lined with beach bars where everyone is drinking lots of "painkillers." The water is full of boats coming and going which can be dangerous for kids; also there isn't any snorkeling there.

 

Shhh! Smuggler's Cove is the best kept secret in the Caribbean. It is gorgeous and never crowded. The water is crystal clear and the snorkeling great. The reef starts about 15 feet offshore on the left side of the beach as you face the water. We had a couple of wonderful days there; saw zillions of varieties of fish--tangs, parrot fish, clown fish, barracuda, etc

 

There are no "facilities" at Smuggler's but there is someone renting chairs and selling drinks and food. It is about a 30 minute drive from the dock. After the beach, stop and change at in the restrooms at either Long Bay or Sebastian's and have a late lunch there--the food is great and the views unforgettable!

 

Enjoy your day in Tortola!

[golkowgirl]

When we went to Jost Van Dyke with Tortola Charters we didn’t know about the snorkeling from the itinerary – but once onboard we were asked about going snorkeling by Captain Bill and there was about 6 of us that took him up on the offer. We walked down to the end of the beach and then snorkeled out about 100 yards before we got to the reef. When we got to the reef it was beautiful – the water was calm and clear and we saw a nurse shark lying on the bottom with his tail sticking out from under the coral and the reef was very colorful and full of fish. We went to the edge of the reef where it drops off and then we snorkeled back into the beach. We spent about an hour snorkeling and I would say that it would be fine for kids if they were in fairly good shape and could swim well. At the spot where we snorkeled there was no boat traffic and I felt very safe – but I can see how you wouldn’t want to go snorkeling near the Soggy Dollar’s beach because of all of the boats and it seemed to be just a sandy bottom. Anyway – we loved the snorkeling – but you definitely need an experienced guide to find the reef. When we cruise with the NCL Pearl in 2011 I am going to do the tour again -

http://tortolacharters.com/excursions/jost-van-dyke-tours

[MissRabbit]

we're debating Smuggler's Cove as well. I did contact a couple taxi companies as to what their fare would be to take us to Smuggler's Cove, then stop by Soper's Hole on the way back. Both taxi companies came back with quotes of $175 and $200 for up to 4 people. Hayyeelll no!

 

To rent a 4 wheel drive is way less than that. At the time we're going (november), the rental is around $80 for a standard 4 wheel drive jeep (or similar)

 

 

vacamalua, when you say 30 minutes from port, which route did you take? did you go across the island from the port, then travel along cane garden and long bay to get to Smugglers? Or did you travel along the south side (waterfront drive) toward Soper's hole, before cutting across over to Smugglers?

[vakamalua]

To Miss Rabbit:

 

To Smuggler's Cove from Road Town--

 

*Take the main road out of Roadtown traveling west (to your left)

*Stay on it for about 20 minutes; then look for Big Ben's food market (it's small) on your left

*Make the next right on to Zion Hill Road where there will be a gas station on the left after the turn

*Zion Hill Road dead ends at Sebastian's Guest House; take a left

*Go past Long Bay Resort until you dead end at the sign for Nature Boy's Beach Bar

*Turn left and then turn right a few yards up the hill at the sign for Smuggler's Cove

*Follow the dirt road until it dead ends at the parking clearing for Smuggler's Cove

 

It's a beautiful beach; enjoy! Post with any other Qs...

[khm1]

[

quote=MissRabbit;25621359]we're debating Smuggler's Cove as well. I did contact a couple taxi companies as to what their fare would be to take us to Smuggler's Cove, then stop by Soper's Hole on the way back. Both taxi companies came back with quotes of $175 and $200 for up to 4 people. Hayyeelll no!

To rent a 4 wheel drive is way less than that. At the time we're going (november), the rental is around $80 for a standard 4 wheel drive jeep (or similar)

Yikes! That's a lot! I know that I don't want to spend that much! I wouldn't want to get there then find this out!

quote]

When we went to Jost Van Dyke with Tortola Charters we didn’t know about the snorkeling from the itinerary – but once onboard we were asked about going snorkeling by Captain Bill and there was about 6 of us that took him up on the offer. We walked down to the end of the beach and then snorkeled out about 100 yards before we got to the reef. When we got to the reef it was beautiful – the water was calm and clear and we saw a nurse shark lying on the bottom with his tail sticking out from under the coral and the reef was very colorful and full of fish. We went to the edge of the reef where it drops off and then we snorkeled back into the beach. We spent about an hour snorkeling and I would say that it would be fine for kids if they were in fairly good shape and could swim well. At the spot where we snorkeled there was no boat traffic and I felt very safe – but I can see how you wouldn’t want to go snorkeling near the Soggy Dollar’s beach because of all of the boats and it seemed to be just a sandy bottom. Anyway – we loved the snorkeling – but you definitely need an experienced guide to find the reef. When we cruise with the NCL Pearl in 2011 I am going to do the tour again -

http://tortolacharters.com/excursions/jost-van-dyke-tours

 

Thanks for the info! This sounds good. A PP stated that White Bay is not for kids. However, my boys are teenagers and have swum competetively for 8 years. My DD is 3 and will be hanging out with our extended family on the beach, playing in the sand. I am really looking for an uncrowded beach with very calm water. The boat ride from Tortola appeals to me as well. This option is looking better and better. Anyone else have an opinion?

[khm1]

Just back from renting a house in Tortola (2nd visit). Had a car and traveled all over the island. If you rent a car and drive anywhere on the island, be sure it is 4 wheel drive. The island is hilly and some roads become dirt/gravel.

 

White Bay on JVD is NOT a kid's place. The beach is lovely but lined with beach bars where everyone is drinking lots of "painkillers." The water is full of boats coming and going which can be dangerous for kids; also there isn't any snorkeling there.

 

Shhh! Smuggler's Cove is the best kept secret in the Caribbean. It is gorgeous and never crowded. The water is crystal clear and the snorkeling great. The reef starts about 15 feet offshore on the left side of the beach as you face the water. We had a couple of wonderful days there; saw zillions of varieties of fish--tangs, parrot fish, clown fish, barracuda, etc

 

There are no "facilities" at Smuggler's but there is someone renting chairs and selling drinks and food. It is about a 30 minute drive from the dock. After the beach, stop and change at in the restrooms at either Long Bay or Sebastian's and have a late lunch there--the food is great and the views unforgettable!

 

Enjoy your day in Tortola!

Have you driven in St. Thomas? I have, several time and think that I do great. :D

Is the driving comparable? I do not want to go on a wild adventure on my vacation, especially with kids.

[MissRabbit]

To Miss Rabbit:

 

To Smuggler's Cove from Road Town--

 

*Take the main road out of Roadtown traveling west (to your left)

*Stay on it for about 20 minutes; then look for Big Ben's food market (it's small) on your left

*Make the next right on to Zion Hill Road where there will be a gas station on the left after the turn

*Zion Hill Road dead ends at Sebastian's Guest House; take a left

*Go past Long Bay Resort until you dead end at the sign for Nature Boy's Beach Bar

*Turn left and then turn right a few yards up the hill at the sign for Smuggler's Cove

*Follow the dirt road until it dead ends at the parking clearing for Smuggler's Cove

 

It's a beautiful beach; enjoy! Post with any other Qs...

 

that's exactly the route i was planning on taking. THe wonders of Google Earth! I had already mapped it out, but it is so nice to know the landmarks to look for when we need to turn. We're going to stop briefly at Long Bay, then pop over to Smugglers for the day. On our way back to the ship, instead of retracing our steps, we're going to go around the point over to Soper's hole as it looks like a really neat place.

[Pyrate13]

Be aware, going around the point is all dirt roads and can be quite rough. Just an FYI.;)

[vakamalua]

Be aware, going around the point is all dirt roads and can be quite rough. Just an FYI.;)

 

DON'T go over the very rough narrow dirt roads to Sopers Hole. Go back past Long Bay and make a right at Sebastian's back up and over Zion Hill Road. When it dead ends at the shore road, turn right and it's a couple of minutes to Sopers Hole. Watch for the sign for Sopers Hole and bear left over a tiny bridge. Sopers Hole is fine for a look around the small shops or a stop at Pussers but there really isn't a whole lot there--then again, there's not a whole lot anywhere on Tortola which is why we like it : )

 

After leaving Sopers Hole, just follow the shore road all the way back to Roadtown (about 25 minutes).

[MissRabbit]

DON'T go over the very rough narrow dirt roads to Sopers Hole. Go back past Long Bay and make a right at Sebastian's back up and over Zion Hill Road. When it dead ends at the shore road, turn right and it's a couple of minutes to Sopers Hole. Watch for the sign for Sopers Hole and bear left over a tiny bridge. Sopers Hole is fine for a look around the small shops or a stop at Pussers but there really isn't a whole lot there--then again, there's not a whole lot anywhere on Tortola which is why we like it : )

 

After leaving Sopers Hole, just follow the shore road all the way back to Roadtown (about 25 minutes).

 

It's that close? just on Google Earth, it looks like you'd be doing a whole lot of backtracking if you doubled back the way you came (over zion hill road). If you think it's a much safer option, i'll go that way, just appeared to be much longer route.

 

We were going to Soper's Hole cause the houses looked neat and to stop in at Pussers. But there is also a Pussers in Roadtown so i could always stop there instead.

[vakamalua]

It's that close? just on Google Earth, it looks like you'd be doing a whole lot of backtracking if you doubled back the way you came (over zion hill road). If you think it's a much safer option, i'll go that way, just appeared to be much longer route.

 

We were going to Soper's Hole cause the houses looked neat and to stop in at Pussers. But there is also a Pussers in Roadtown so i could always stop there instead.

 

Yep, it's that close. From Long Bay, Sopers Hole up back over Zion Hill is about 10 minutes or less. The dirt road over the mountain is closer as the crow flies BUT you will have to go quite slowly because of the condition of the road and, god forbid a car is coming in the opposite direction--someone has to back up until you find a spot where there is enough room to pass each other.

 

Not sure what "houses" you're thinking of at Sopers Hole. The few colorful buildings you see in pictures are a Pussers and some little shops. The Pussers at Sopers Hole is newer and you can sit right by the marina and watch the boats come and go. The Pussers in Roadtown is smaller and a bit more "authentic" but is on the main road so if you sit on the tiny porch, you see people passing by and traffic. Different vibe. (FYI-there's also a Pussers on the east end of Tortola and on Marina Cay.)

 

Enjoy Tortola!

[SaucyPirateWench]

To rent a 4 wheel drive is way less than that. At the time we're going (november), the rental is around $80 for a standard 4 wheel drive jeep (or similar)

 

A poster on Trip Advisor told me about ITGO Car Rental on Tortola...take a look at their website http://www.itgobvi.com We're sailing Carnival Freedom Sept.11, Tortola on Sept. 16 and want to go to Smuggler's Cove. I also got astronomical quotes for taxi's...no thanks! I didn't know that you are required to purchase a temporary BVI license that is $10...it's all on the ITGO website...have fun!!

[khm1]

Thanks for everyone's input! We have decided on the JVD trip with Tortola Charters. I have been in touch with Bill from Tortola Charters and he has given me a very reasonable quote for our family of 5. We are nervous about driving on Tortola, mostly because of DD (3). We will not need to get in a taxi or rent a car at all since we just walk to the boat. Another thread on the Tortola board stated that White Bay is indeed good for kids and that there were plenty of them there. I am not worried about my kids being around adults drinking. They see plenty of that just on the cruise ship! We do not drink much, but will enjoy the beach.

 

Bill noted that since our ship is in port on a Sunday, there will be no shopping in town on Tortola. He said that on Sunday's there is live entertainment on White Bay beach. He also said that there is very good snorkeling close to White Bay and that if there was not a north swell, he will take us. He said that he went there this past Sunday and he encountered a large pod of dolphins. We are looking forward to our trip and our time in JVD!

 

Thanks again everyone!