Grandeur of the Seas, Transatlantic 24 April - 8 May 2011: (lengthy) report

[Cotswold Eagle]

Welcome to my review of my recent transatlantic cruise on the Grandeur of the Seas, leaving Colon, Panama on 24th April and arriving in Palma de Mallorca on 8th May. Some background - I am David from the UK, this was my 6th cruise, all on RCI (I am a Platinum member of the Crown and Anchor Society), and I was travelling alone on my first transatlantic crossing. I had treated myself to a Junior Suite aft (Cabin 7652) - there were some great deals to be had on this 14 night sailing, which RCI appeared to have difficulty selling (possibly because the start point was in Colon, where the Grandeur has been somewhat off the radar doing Spanish language cruises over the winter.) In fact, this cruise did not even appear in the RCI worldwide brochure.

 

I will share my thoughts day-by-day, as written mostly on board, and sum up some general observations at the end of the review. I hope it will be useful for those thinking about a transatlantic crossing in the future or those joining the Grandeur in the months to come in the Med. Please ask any questions and I will do my best to answer them. I have many photos, but need time to sort through and upload them, so I may post a separate photo thread in due course. I also have a complete set of Cruise Compasses.

[Cotswold Eagle]

I flew to Panama the day before the cruise, from London to Madrid and then on to Panama City, both flights on Iberia, but booked using British Airways miles (BA and Iberia have merged, but still fly as separate brands). As another treat to myself, I flew business class and from the reports I later heard from the back of the plane, I am glad I did. Full, cramped and uncomfortable were some of the words used.

 

I knew from the Cruise Critic 'Meet and Mingle' thread that some of my fellow shipmates were on the same flight and would be staying at the same hotel, the Radisson 2000, Colon. Sure enough, I met Ojeepost and her DH (aka Kirsten and Erwin) from the Netherlands in the baggage hall at Tocumen Airport, Panama City. I had asked the hotel to arrange a transfer and a gentleman was waiting with a sign for me immediately after immigration/customs. Others had transfers arranged by RCI and had to wait for some time at the airport as some poor folk's luggage had not arrived (and never did apparently.) I was on my own in a small minibus and just over an hour later was checking in. The hotel was a decent quality, although the area did not appear to be at all salubrious - but after 24 hours travelling, I was in no mood for exploring that night anyway!

[Cotswold Eagle]

I woke up early, and looked out of the window to glimpse the Grandeur over some rooftops. A little while (and a bit more sleep) later, I looked again and she had been joined by the Jewel of the Seas, on a port visit. After a leisurely breakfast, I wandered outside with my new Dutch friends to look at the ships, which were moored right next to the hotel. As you would expect, there were many tours being hawked by a variety of official and unofficial sellers. There is a small shopping area at the port, but you would not want to explore on foot beyond that, in my opinion. A little while later we checked out of the hotel, left our luggage in their store and engaged a driver to take us to the Gatun Locks on the Panama Canal, where we watched a couple of ships transit through, which was interesting. Our driver, who was both humorous and passionate about his city, then took us on a brief tour of Colon, including a stop at an old gun battery, which defended the entrance to the port. The city has some old buildings, in a colonial style, on the main street, but they all looked pretty run down, which is a great shame.

 

It was now approaching 1 pm, so after we had been dropped back at the port, we retrieved our luggage and walked the few hundred yards to the Grandeur (and yes, we survived walking on our own in Colon!) There were plenty of porters at the dock to assist with luggage and the check in facility was in a large hall. I did not see a separate priority check in, but, to be honest, I didn't really look as there were virtually no queues (this will become a recurrent theme), although check in for some people appeared to be taking a while. It turned out that questions were being asked about onward plans in Europe and no one had been prepared for this, so there was a lot of searching for documents going on. This, plus a shortage of photocopiers (2 for 40 agent stations, it seemed), held things up slightly, but all in all it was a fairly painless check in procedure and before long we were on board. Cabins were ready, so I dumped my hand luggage and set out to explore.

 

First impressions were of a lovely ship and I was pleased to discover a proper library and a separate card/games room on my deck (7). Heading up to the Windjammer, I was struck by how few people were on board. In fact, there appeared to be hardly anyone about. It subsequently transpired that we sailed from Colon with less than 600 passengers, so about a quarter full. With more staff than guests, plates were cleared within moments of being pushed away, an empty glass prompted a race to ask if you wanted another drink, and there were no queues at the food stations. I will sum up my impressions of the food (a dangerously subjective topic) later, but suffice to say I enjoyed my lunch! I am afraid I did not keep a log of my Windjammer food choices, but obviously honey stung chicken featured today :)

 

Muster drill took place at 5 pm and my luggage had arrived in my cabin before then. As someone more used to an interior cabin near the waterline, I was very pleased with my Junior Suite and the huge aft balcony (with two upright chairs, two loungers and two tables). Plenty of room and storage, a good size sofa, a coffeemaker and kettle, and the luxury of a bath tub AND room to move in the bathroom. I met my cabin attendant, Korrine from Trinidad and Tobago (I never remember to ask which!), who does a great job over the next two weeks of keeping me in order. The muster reinforced how few folk were on board and there was plenty of room at the rail for sail away later, as the Grandeur left Panama for the last time for several months.

 

In the absence of enough people for an official "Meet and Mingle', we had arranged to meet in the Viking Crown Lounge after the muster drill. I met my two Dutch friends and Zu there and also made the acquaintance of my first (of many) Strawberry Daquari! The Diamond event was also taking place in the lounge (as it did throughout the cruise) and we were told that there were only about 40 Diamond and 8 Diamond+ members aboard.

 

I had late seating for dinner, and went to the Welcome Aboard Show at 7-45 pm (for all guests) first. The Cruise Director, Rico Dubreil, did a great job of catering for both English and Spanish speakers (roughly half and half, with a significant minority of German speakers), as did the guest star, vocalist/comedian, Fito Giron. I had wondered about this aspect of the cruise and in practice throughout, most announcements, shows, speeches etc. were done in both English and Spanish (with the more important announcements from the bridge or Captain repeated in German as well). It probably worked better than it sounds.

 

Heading to the Great Gatsby dining room, I found myself on a table set for six. I was joined by Grant from Canada, also travelling on his own and briefly by another single gentleman. However, as he only spoke Spanish, this table mate understandably asked to be switched to another table, leaving just the two of us. I began my cruise in traditional style, with Vidalia onion tart and prime rib, which were both pretty good.

 

As we began our cruise east, the clocks changed tonight, for the first of many times on this cruise, going forward one hour.

[Cotswold Eagle]

A day at sea - the first of many on this cruise. You know how it is - checking out a library book and setting up a wireless internet account takes up the morning. A walk round the decks and a nap accounts for the afternoon. Throw in a few hours solid eating and the days go by :)

 

Actually, I had to finish a report for a client so spent some of the day working :( I did attend a Morning Coffee session with Rico and Tony Curtis, the British Hotel Director, who said that he had expected about 200 more passengers to join in Panama, but they had not shown up (I'm not sure if this was just corporate spin, or not). Nearly 200, mostly from the UK, were due to join in a few days time in Barbados. Tony also hinted that he had some surprises in store for the day of the Royal Wedding later in the week.

 

I was able to do some more exploring of the ship - she is a lovely vessel, but with none of the 'bells and whistles' of the more modern ships (Grandeur was built in 1996). There are no speciality restaurants, although there is a Cafe Lattetudes (Seattle's Best Coffee)/Ben & Jerry's outlet. I really liked the Solarium, which was light and spacious, and has a small cafe (hot dogs and pizza). It is let down by mean cushions on old loungers, but the rest of the furniture there is quite comfortable. As you would expect, as well as the Viking Lounge, there is a fairly small Schooner Bar on Deck 6 and a Champagne Terrace Bar at the bottom of the centrum on Deck 4. The South Pacific Lounge is aft, reached though the Schooner Bar or via the Singing in the Rain Lounge/conference centre. This latter space seemed awkward and not greatly utilised. A small collection of shops, the obligatory spa, fitness centre, casino and photo gallery make up the amenities on board.

 

We had arranged a second unofficial 'Meet and Mingle' in the Viking Crown Lounge this afternoon and we meet KFL and her DH (Karen and Alex). The Diamond event taking place in the front section of the lounge at the same time seemed pretty quiet.

 

There were two headliner show times this evening, for first and second dinner seatings. The act was a Beatles tribute band, the Beatlemaniacs, from Canada. They were good, one of the better tribute bands I have seen on a ship, and did a great job keeping up the energy despite really small audiences. In fact, Rico very sensibly decided after this to revert to having just one show per night for the rest of the cruise, usually between dinner seatings at 7-45 pm.

 

Just Grant and I for dinner again. We were well looked after by our waiter (Cipriano, from the Phillipines) and his assistant (Alton, from Jamaica). With so few on board, they had fewer tables to look after than normal, so the service was attentive and quick. Alton also worked the Windjammer/Solarium and always greeted me by name whenever he saw me. I had Escargots/Seafood Brochette for dinner, which were both great, but the snails have a lot of garlic and butter, if that's not your thing. And so to an early bed - did I mention that the ship is REALLY quiet?!

[Cotswold Eagle]

Bright and early we pulled alongside the pier in Willemstad. I had to top and tail my work report and get that emailed off, before going ashore at about 11 am. My first time in Curaçao and I was very impressed. The pier is right at a Renaissance Hotel complex, which includes some of the usual Caribbean cruise port shops, a casino and several restaurants/bars, some of them built into the old fortified walls protecting the entrance to the harbour. It was very nicely done and from there it was no more than a couple of minutes walk to the famous swing bridge across to the old part of town. There is a distinct European feel (after all, we are in the kingdom of the Netherlands!) with Dutch style architecture, a floating market and restaurant terraces along the waterfront. I wandered around for a short while, returned to the ship for lunch as it was getting very hot, and had another expedition on foot in the afternoon. Although I didn't really 'do' anything ashore, I look forward to returning to a very pleasant and atypical Carribean island one day.

 

The show this evening was a juggler, Victor Zuniga. The act is similar to others of the same genre I have seen, but he is very good. I didn't spot any real mistakes or mishaps and he is pretty funny too. His version of playing pool has to be seen :)

 

Grant doesn't appear for dinner this evening, so I have a table for six to myself, which always makes one feel a little conspicuous. With the rise of My Time Dining and seemingly more people wanting to eat on smaller tables, this is the peril of the solo cruiser. I order poached salmon and pork stroganoff, with a glass of wine to console myself and shortly afterwards a red jacketed Head Waiter hoves into view. I imagine he will inquire after my welfare, noticing that I am eating alone, or maybe he has found a table with a spare seat, should I prefer company. How foolish of me. He informs me that I need to go to Guest Services straight after dinner with cash or a credit card as my account hasn't been opened. In vain, I point out that not only have I been charging to my account for three days, but that Alton hasn't even yet taken my card to charge for the wine. No, I must open an account later, a mistake had been made when I boarded.

 

Of course, it hadn't. Five minutes later, the same red jacket returns. Very sorry, the message was meant for a person who had been sitting at this table at the first dinner seating. I have often wondered what these important people in their red jackets do to earn their tips. I am still wondering! And no, he made no mention of my solo predicament (even though it has saved him from embarrassing himself in front of anyone but me!) A kind fellow passenger (we met at the morning coffee yesterday) does notice that I am on my own and invites me to join his table for the rest of the trip. A dilemma - I don't want to eat alone for another 11 nights, but will Grant or any other table mates appear tomorrow? I ponder this, as I retire for the evening.

[Cotswold Eagle]

For the first time, I wake with no work worries hanging over me. It is vacation all the way to Mallorca, although I do intend to start sketching out a book outline. A second day at sea awaits, the sun is shining and life is Good.

 

In the morning, I go for a backstage tour of the Palladium Theatre (the one on the ship, you understand, not the one in London's West End). We are met by three of the cast, a stage assistant and Bart, the lighting technician. Split into two groups, the cast take us backstage and show us the cramped area they have for changing, how they organise themselves, and answer our questions about the productions, before Bart talks us through the technical aspects, and shows us the sound and lighting booths. They are all very friendly and we get a fascinating insight into what goes on behind the scenes. I have never met anyone in my life who loves his job and his role on the ship as much as Bart, a great Grandeur character. I see him later in the week taking part in some Poolside Olympics, when Bart the Belgian lighting tech transforms into El Bart from Colombia - and John Bartavolta looks pretty familiar at the 70s party!

 

The rest of the day passes pleasantly, busy doing nothing, with the occasional nap. The library has a good supply of decent thrillers to keep me going, even if I am occasionally to be seen reading with my eyes firmly closed.... The show this evening was not so great, despite some hype from Rico. The act is Joe Van, who is billed as doing 'zany comedy impression'. Well, he does impressions. He has a good Frank Sinatra, but he opens with Tom Jones, which to my ears sounds pretty much like Frank Sinatra doing a poor Tom Jones. It passes some time before dinner, but I'm glad I didn't miss anything to catch this show.

 

My dining dilemma is resolved, as Grant is at the table when I reach the dining room after the show. Excellent food tonight - I have some tasty crab cakes to start and rack of lamb, cooked perfectly. The food so far has been much better than I remember from recent cruises. Maybe the small number of passengers helps.

[mamapan]

They were on the Explorer on my last cruise in October 2010 - fantastic show. Glad you enjoyed them and the Grandeur - she's a beautiful ship!

[batoryfirst]

Thoroughly enjoying your review with my morning tea. More, please.:)

 

Nancy

[Clarea]

Very enjoyable review so far. Thanks!

 

Bob

[Cotswold Eagle]

Our second port of call and the last land we will see for a week. Serenade of the Seas, Celebrity Summit and the Star Princess are already in port as we berth at the 'Sugar Wharf', complete with tall machinery very close to the side of the ship. We dock to the starboard side, unlike Curacao, where the port side was, well, the port side.

 

I have a pre-booked excursion here, which I slightly regretted when I found out that the West Indies are playing Pakistan at cricket in Bridgetown today. Poor research on my part. However, my regret is tempered by the fact that, although the cricket ground is just a few minutes walk from the dock, it is pouring (and I mean POURING) with rain as we disembark. It stops raining shortly, but it is never the best of days - warm, but not much sun.

 

I have been looking forward to my excursion, a dive on the Atlantis submarine, and I am not disappointed. We are picked up in small minibuses, driven a few minutes to their base, where we board a boat, which takes us to the dive site. Two identical small submarines are waiting for us (one surfaces as we approach, a good photo opportunity.) We spend 40 minutes beneath the waves, floating past a coral reef and a ship that has been sunk to form an articial reef, and reach a maximum depth of 134 feet. We are delivered back to port in time for lunch on board.

 

There are some shops and a tourist information centre in a large building at the port complex, and it is a short walk to our berth (there are shuttle buses running for those who prefer, or who get caught in the rain.) I arrive back at the ship as some of the eagerly awaited new passengers are embarking, which causes a little delay. The ship has set up a cool towel and water station at the gangplank, to keep us refreshed as we queue. I decide to stay on board for the afternoon, although the cricket ground is temptingly in view and play has started!

 

All aboard at 4-30 pm (I get some photos of a couple of 'runners') and an intricate ballet of ships to get all four out of the harbour. Serenade backs all the way out, but we rather more elegantly turn in the pool and head out with the pointy end facing forward! I meet some of the new guests, who got great deals (including no single supplements) on their truncated TA cruise. RCI must have worked out a good arrangement with Britsih Airways, whose flight to Barbados yesterday was apparently almost empty, other than for our cruisers. We are up to a complement of just over 850, so passengers now outnumber the crew.

 

It is our first production show this evening, and the RC Singers and Dancers do a great job with 'Broadway Rythym and Rhyme'. There is a decent and enthusiastic house in the Palladium - still just one show, and the extra guests make all the difference. My enjoyment of the show is enhanced by having met some of the cast on the theatre tour and understanding more of how they work their magic.

 

Grant and I are joined at dinner by Moira from Scotland, who got on the ship today. We enjoy getting to know each other and I order an appetiser of scallops and coq au vin for my main course. It is more like chicken with some sauce on top than a true coq au vin, and is my first really disappointing dish of the cruise.

 

Another hour lost tonight as the ship's clocks go forward again, as they do for the next five nights as we head east (ENE to be more accurate, on a heading of 70 degrees) towards Africa. We round the southern end of Barbados and, leaving the Caribbean behind us, head out into the Atlantic. Tomorrow holds the promise of something special....

[Cruising89143]

A great review thus far. Thanks for sharing.

[Cotswold Eagle]

Thanks for the kind words. As you can tell, there's a lot of time to write on a TA!

[Cotswold Eagle]

So at last, this momentous day in history, a day for celebration dawns. Yes, we have the new passengers on board, it is the Captain’s Welcome Aboard Reception and our first formal night this evening. Oh, and there is also some small private wedding taking place in London....

 

The Centrum has been massively decorated with red, white and blue balloons, Union flags and bunting, and the Royal Wedding coverage is available live on BBC and Fox on our stateroom TVs early in the morning. At noon we gather in the Centrum, where champagne is provided for a Royal (if not necessarily Loyal) Toast and two special celebration cakes are served. The piece de resistance is a life-size cardboard cutout of the happy couple, which, I am told by a member of the crew, has been living in the Hotel Director's office for weeks in anticipation of this day! At 12-30 pm, the wedding is replayed on the big screen in the theatre.

 

This probably all sounds a little cheesy, but everyone I spoke to thoroughly enjoyed it. Hats off to Tony Curtis, the Hotel Director, who organised it all and sourced the decorations himself. Other ships in the RCI fleet are apparently showing the TV coverage, but as far as anyone knows, the Grandeur is the only one with its own street party. The ship's photographers are kept busy this evening taking photos with the new Duke and Duchess of Cambridge, as many passengers ignore the five formal portrait studios they have set up, in favour of Tony's cutouts!

 

I attend the Captain's reception before dinner, which is held in the South Pacific Lounge. Our captain is a young looking Norwegian, Espen Been. I know some of my fellow passengers found his accent difficult to penetrate at times, but I seemed to manage better than most (I can't vouch for his Spanish, but he did speak directly to our Latin guests.) He has a subtle sense of humour and a clear interest in the history of sailing, passing on some tidbits of information (the derivation of 'knots', for example) in his daily announcements. He is not seen around the ship that often, but is friendly enough.

 

We are joined by Pam from England for dinner, so we now have a table of four. She also came aboard in Barbados and was originally placed on a table on her own, both in the early seating and My Time Dining. We all agree that RC's dining seating arrangements are in danger of disadvantaging solo travellers and those who wish to meet other passengers over dinner - Grant discusses this with the Food and Beverage manager later in the week and is told that they recognise this and that changes to the system may be forthcoming, but they have to respond to the growing demand for smaller tables. My dinner tonight is creamy mushrooms in pastry, followed by grilled giant prawns, and I am pleased to find the kitchen back on top form.

[Cotswold Eagle]

We had another five sea days before reaching the Canary Islands and our next stop, Tenerife. We had great luck with the weather, with most days turning out to be hot (in the 80s) and sunny. The seas were almost flat, we could have been sailing the Caribbean, not the North Atlantic. Of course, our route was quite far south and it wasn't until the last day before Tenerife that we ran across some showers and rain in the morning, although it later improved that day too

 

As well as the usual onboard activities, such as trivia, poolside games and, of course, bingo, Rico and his staff worked hard to lay on a variety of other daytime attractions. There were feng shui, dance, piano, language, painting/drawing and bridge classes, as well as a movie matinee in the theatre each afternoon (other than one day, when the Guest Talent Show took place.) Some days there were BBQs or culinary demonstrations on the pool deck - watching the chefs make a 15 foot long apple strudel sticks in my memory :)

 

The captain sent his junior officers out on deck to practice their sextant skills most days, and guests were also invited to try their hand. As we eventually find Tenerife, I assume they don't rely on my reading! According to the officers, using old fashioned techniques they plotted positions within seven miles of the GPS position, which would be good enough to navigate us safely to port.

 

The Captain's Corner took place on one of the sea days, with Captain Been answering a variety of questions. He confirmed what I had heard earlier, that the Grandeur will be in dry dock next year. He believes this will take place in Europe, possibly Lisbon (immediately after a 2012 eastbound transatlantic, perhaps?) As well as some engineering changes, such as an advanced waste treatment plant being installed, the Singin' in the Rain lounge/conference centre area will be revamped, by installing at least one specialty restaurant (probably a Chops Grille, according to the Hotel Director.)

 

The captain set his passengers a challenge, to guess the distance from Colon to Tenerife. The answer is announced on Day 11 as 3906 nautical miles - the three winners, who were given a bridge tour by the captain, guess 3905, 3907 and 3912. The captain is particularly impressed as the internet connection failed shortly into the crossing, so passengers were seen gathered round the chart of our voyage (over 100 entered), attempting to measure the distance in a variety of ways, rather than using Google maps! I am pleased to say our fellow Cruise Critic members, Kirsten and Erwin, are among the winners.

 

I pass my days quietly, reading more books from the library, writing notes for this review and trying to walk off some of the calories I have consumed so far! I also spend some hours touring the ship and looking at the art on board, which is a favourite pastime for me. Each staircase and corridor is an art gallery, and I am always surprised not to see more people taking the time to look more closely at the art they pass each day. Most of the works on Grandeur are by British artists and have a theatrical theme, with the large staircase pieces featuring scenes from various operas and ballets, flanked by sculptures representing the same works. There are some really interesting prints of stage and costume designs in the stateroom corridors, as well as some feather fans from a collection previously owned by Britt Ekland, and some puppets and masks from the Far East.

 

The Crown & Anchor 'returning guests' reception took place on Day 8, with the 'higher tier' (Platinum and above) event the following day, both in the South Pacific Lounge. As usual, free drinks and tasty hot and cold canapés were served, with some words from the captain and Melissa Broome, the loyalty ambassador, although the officers did not mingle much with the guests. With the Welcome Aboard party being delayed until we had picked up the passengers in Barbados, all three receptions took place over four days, which seems a shame on such a long cruise.

[Cotswold Eagle]

For the record, I had the following dinners during these sea days:

 

Day 7 - Boddington Battered Fish (why curry the tartare sauce?!)/Deconstructed Beef Wellington (excellent)

Day 8 - Prawn cerviche (disappointing)/Roast Sirloin

Day 9 - (a repeat of) Snails/Seafood Brochette (I siad it was good!)

Day 10 - Smoked Haddock Fishcake/Prosciutto Wrapped Pork Fillet (a bit dry)

Day 11 - Scallop Risotto/Lamb Shank (an excellent meal - the lamb was possibly the best thing I have eaten on a cruise ship!)

 

A quick mention for the Windjammer, where I ate breakfast, lunch and Emergency Snacks throughout. It was never crowded (of course) and I found the choice pretty good and the food tasty. For lunch I usually tried either the fish (which was usually generic, I'm sure it must have had a name!) or the curry dishes, which were great. There were also some good "European" dishes - some very nice moussaka and lasagne sticks in the mind, as does a Steak and Kidney Pie.

 

Once into the Atlantic, I noticed an English Breakfast side to the WJ breakfast buffet - "proper" bacon and sausages, baked beans, grilled toms and, for a few days at least, mushrooms and (glory be) black pudding. There was never a line for the egg station, the breakfast rolls were excellent and fresh, so all in all I ended up with WAY too much food to start the day ;)

[Cotswold Eagle]

I haven't really mentioned the other entertainmnet on board. As usual, there is some live music around the pool and in the Centrum - one band, 'Locomotion' was very good, the rest was kind of background for me, but I certainly didn't notice anything poor. There was a singer/piano player in the Schooner Bar in the evenings (and some of the RC singers sang in there occasionally - it was a popular hangout for cast and crew) and a "nightclub" in the Viking Lounge. There were also the usual game shows and karaoke taking place around the place.

 

Of course, with so few passengers, the atmosphere was a little subdued at times. If you were looking for a real party ship, this probably wasn't it, but I have to say some of our South American shipmates certainly know how to have fun :) There was a very lively 70s party one evening, the Quest was the Quest, and Love and Marriage was fun (favourite answer to 'What is his most annoying habit?' - 'Flossing his teeth while driving...in Panama City'!!). I also understand the "Ladies' Evening" in the Viking Lounge was a big hit :eek:

 

The shows during these sea days varied from the pretty good to the fabulous. Amongst the best, I would include the singer Elvy Rose (mad as a box of frogs, but a great voice and stage presence to the max!) and the Production Show 'Tango Buenos Aires' (with some guest musicians and dancers and the RC cast) - they have been doing this show during the Panama season and it was not carrying on in Europe, which is a shame because it is superb. Probably the best show I have seen on a ship, I would say.

 

Also good, and a little out of the ordinary, was Viviana Guzman, who plays a variety of flutes from around the world, taking us on a musical journey from South America to Ireland. The final production show, 'All Access' started well, but fell a bit flat, figuratively and literally - I suspect there may have been technical difficulties (we learned from the cast earlier in the cruise that they record a sync track when they first come on board and this gets dropped in if a microphone goes down during the show).

 

Overall, I found the entertainment to be of a pretty high standard. On the less good side, there were a couple of so-so singers and a ventriloquist who was technically very good, but I find 40 minutes of that kind of an act about 25 minutes too long. But some of the shows really were excellent, as I mentioned.

[Cotswold Eagle]

Our final port of call on the way to Mallorca, after 6 sea days, is Tenerife. We see the first of the Canary Islands in the distance on the late afternoon of the previous day and some sea birds come to join us. There has been the occasional reported sighting of dolphins and flying fish, but no ships or other company across the Atlantic.

 

I am on another organised tour today, a bus excursion up to Mount Teide, the famous volcano and highest point in Spain. We are asked to meet in the theatre at 8 am and are escorted aft and down to the pier, which seems a little unnecessary. We are on a comfortable coach, which is about 2/3 full. The tour drives up through the forest and into the strange volcanic landscape above 2000m, with great views of the snow-capped peak and also the observatory on Tenerife. The local guide keeps up a continuous running commentary, which is pretty informative. We have a coffee stop (included - I actually have some excellent hot chocolate) and a couple of photo stops on the way up and down. There is about half an hour at the main visitor area. There is not much to do other than take photos, but that's why I have come. We retrace the route on the way back - the cloud has rolled in on the coast below, but we are well above it, so we get some good shots of Teide rising from the clouds. Once again we are blessed with great weather - I have been warned to bring a jacket, but don't need it even at our highest point. The sky above the cloud is a glorious blue.

 

It's not the most exciting trip, but I was pleased to have done it. The landscape in the caldera is something else and I am glad I have seen it, but you can't walk through much of it - the whole area is a protected National Park. There is a film crew making the next installment of Clash of the Titans up there, though!

 

We are back at the ship in time for a late lunch and all aboard is 3-30 pm, so no time to explore the port. To be honest, Santa Cruz looks pretty unexciting anyway.

 

The big excitement of the day is the removal of several passengers in handcuffs just before the ship sails. Information is hard to come by, but it is reported that drugs were involved.

 

The show this evening is Los Pampas Gauchos, two chaps who have an interesting fluorescent puppet show, as well as a typical Gaucho act (but very well done). Another good show. I chat to one of them the following day and he was a pretty cool guy, too.

 

My dinner selection was Prawn Salad and Roast Chicken, which were perfectly adequate, but not very inspiring. A bit like Tenerife, it seems! As we leave the Canaries, our course turns more northwards. We have made it across the Atlantic, now we must find the Med.

[Cotswold Eagle]

Our final two days are both spent at sea. The weather is noticeably cooler as we head further north off the coast of Morocco, but it is still pleasant enough on deck. Our incredible luck continues with calm seas and light breezes. This may have to be the most benign crossing of the Atlantic in history!

 

The days pass as pleasantly as the rest of this very relaxing voyage. I carry on doing very little, finishing my self-guided art tour of the ship and a couple of thrillers. On day 13, the show is 'Ole, Ole ("Rumba Flamenco with a Difference"), which I enjoy. A lot of the shows have had a Latin flavour, which is fine by me. I have another crab cake appetsier and pork fillet entree, which are both good, although the pork is again a little dry.

 

The end of our cruise is literally just over the horizon. But there is one final event I have been looking forward to - we have yet to pass through the Straits of Gibraltar into the Mediterranean. We have made good time across the ocean, and the captain announces that unfortunately we will make the transit between 2 and 4 in the morning. I set my alarm for just after 3 am and watch from my balcony as we pass through the narrowest point of the Straits. It is, of course, pitch black, but there are enough lights on shore to make out both coastlines. I am glad I got up to see this, as it marks a real milestone in our journey and it is my first time here. My efforts to record the occasion in photos fail pretty miserably, but the memory will stay with me, particularly as a thunderstorm adds another lighting effect. Fortunately we have another sea day in the Med, heading for our final destination of Mallorca, so I can have a lie in, after I get back to bed at about 4-30 am.

 

As it is the final day, the dreaded luggage tags and debarkation instructions arrive. The shops have their final sale, with itinerary T-shirts from the Caribbean at 4 for $20, as they are replaced with Spanish and Italian themed apparel. I pick up 2 nice photos of myself from the formal nights (there were three in total - Days 6, 9 and 13) and watch some of the 'Tango Buenos Aires' show, which has appeared for an extra matinee by popular demand. It's a great show again and what a shame the cruisers in the Med this summer won't et to see it.

 

This evening's show had to be re-arranged. It was supposed to be a comedian/magician, but although he arrived in Tenerife to meet the ship, his props are missing in transit, so he is unable to perform. Fortunately, one of the other entertainers, Daniel Bouchet, is still on board and agrees to do another show. As it happens, this was the only show I missed earlier in the cruise (it clashed with one of the Crown & Anchor events), so I don't mind this at all, but some other guests appear less happy. He is a perfectly adequate singer, but somehow the show lacks that final night sparkle. As usual, a large representative sample of the crew takes the stage for the finale.

 

My final dinner on board is prawn cocktail, followed by battered prawns and haddock, both of which are fine, but not especially exciting. Table photos are taken, tip envelopes are handed out, fond farewells are exchanged and that last night feeling takes over.

 

Eventually, it is time for the luggage to be closed and put outside the cabin for collection overnight. Unwilling for this wonderful trip to end, I walk round the outside decks and I am rewarded with the sight of some tremendous lightning storms round the Med and the approaching lights of what must be Ibiza, the first of the Balearic Islands. Fittingly, at about 1 am, I see a fireworks display in the distance. It feels like a signal - the end of a grand adventure on the Grandeur and time for my final sleep on board.

[Cotswold Eagle]

At about 6 am, the Grandeur of the Seas pulls alongside the dock in Palma de Mallorca, after her two week journey of over 5,000 nautical miles. We berth against the outer wall of the harbour, so a long walk into town. The Liberty of the Seas is also in port, and is berthed much closer in, by what looks like a covered skywalk into a terminal building. We are also joined by HAL's Ryndam shortly after arrival.

 

I have booked the late departure package, as I have an evening flight back to London, so I will be spending several more hours on board, but for most of my fellow passengers it's time for an early breakfast and disembarkation. The procedure seems to go reasonably well, although there is an annnouncement about a delay at some point. By 8.10 am, just about all of the passengers appear to have left the ship, and boarded the coaches and taxis taking them to their various destinations.

 

A representative from Guest Services takes my passport for immigration - non-EU passengers staying on board have to present themselves in person. The ship is eerily quiet for a while, as I stroll around taking some last photos and use the internet, which works until about 10-30 am, when my account is disabled. The crew is busy cleaning and preparing for the next cruise, which, of course, starts in a few hours. Some of them are out in the harbour, practicing their life boat handling skills.

 

Then the early boarders arrive, a trickle at first, but by 11-30 am the coaches are returning full from the airport and I am starting to feel like an outsider as hordes of excited new guests begin exploring their home for the next week, and the crew start to learn 2,000 new names and faces (and answer the same old questions with a smile!) Cabins are opened shortly after noon and I notice that the debarkation notices are gradually replaced by 'Day 1' Cruise Compasses throughout the ship.

 

I join the new arrivals for lunch in the Windjammer - is it really two weeks since I was enjoying the same buffet in Colon?! Some of the crew recognise the stay-behinds, and we share a final transatlantic-ers moment. The WJ is already more crowded than at any time on our cruise, a reminder of how lucky we have been. As more passengers arive, the ship begins to feel quite small. It has been an interesting insight into the life of the ship between cruises, but the Grandeur is no longer 'my' ship :( I collect my passport from Guest Services and slink ashore at 3-15 pm, to the confusion of the Chief Security Officer, who already has a zero count from our cruise. I could have stayed on board and slept on deck for the next week :)

 

I am last off, my bags waiting all alone in what is now the embarkation hall. I grab a taxi that has just delivered a departing passenger and by 3-45 pm I am in the departure hall at the airport (~25 Euro taxi fare) with a few hours to wait for my flight to London. And a few hours after that I will be at my flat in town, ready for a day's work on Monday.... At least I don't have jet lag :)

 

It's all over. Until the next time. Thanks for reading.

 

David

[Clarea]

Thanks David, most enjoyable account of a cruise I have ever read.

 

Bob

[Tymless1]

Thanks David! That was a wonderful review. ;)

[Jackie52]

Hi Dave, as a passenger on the transatlantic in the fall I have enjoyed reading your very comprehensive journeys aboard the Grandeur.

 

I have gleaned lots of insights which shall be passed on to the new CC. ( like passing on info to the next generation!)

 

Take care and maybe we shall sail the seas together next time!

 

Jackie

[glittergal1]

Great to read about your journey David .I will be taking my first ever cruise in July from Palma on The Grandeur so its been lovely getting a bit of an insight into life on board .

[IwannaGo Now]

Well written....I wish I had your talent, as I'm sure many others do too. You managed to make even the so-so, sound positive, where I don't know how to write that way, so my review sounds too negative. I did enjoy the lightning storms in Spain, as we went thru "The Rock" area....I could watch from my bed, which was incredible....the storms, not the bed, although the bed was fine. :D I am going to try to finish my "negative" review, soon.

Thanks for your excellent read.

[Ripley's Lady]

BRAVO DAVID - YOU WROTE AN AMAZING REVIEW OF GRANDEUR!!

 

She is one of our favorite ships - we were on her last voyage out of Baltimore... and a lovely small ship she is. I would say an intimate ship where you could get to know crew and passengers without a lot of noise and hoopla.

 

I chuckled when you related folks being photographed with the Royal couple of the hour!

Well done Tony!!

 

Paul and I enjoyed several vacations on Grandeur of the Seas so I especially enjoyed your apt descriptions. We will look forward to seeing her togged out after her "refit" in 2012. For this October we will be travelling on the Jewel in the Fall - another pretty little ship with lots of fabulous art.

 

Again, Dave, thanks for the lovely review! And here is a tip if you ever choose to do The Panama trip again: The Radisson in Panama City is another excellent choice with a fabulous Latin breakfast buffet and access to Panama City's fine shopping and culture.