Senor tango

[Lolotte]

Has anybody been to Senor Tango in Buenos Aires ?How was it ? what about transportation ?

[pmacher61]

Has anybody been to Senor Tango in Buenos Aires ?How was it ? what about transportation ?

I have not been to Senor Tango for about 13 years. Hopefully, it has changed. Back in 2000, I wrote an article for the Bs As Herald weekend "Get Out" magazine surveying all Bs As tango supper clubs. Of the 15 I reviewed (dinner and show) Senor Tango came in dead last for both food and show, not to mention how the patrons were herded into the refurbished factory venue as if they were cattle.

 

The egomaniacal owner of the club sang for about 1/3 of the show. He wasn't that good, but because he was connected to the Sec of Tourism the club was promoted by the government. That resulted in huge crowds and lots of phony hype about the "spectacular-ness" of the entertainment. In fact, the quality of the singing and dancing was mediocre. In the hopes of wowing the crowd and to compensate for the lackluster tango components the show was supplemented by some horses and gauchos doing a quasi-circus act for a few minutes.

 

Besides bad food and insultingly poor service, the sight lines to the stage were bad. In some areas much of the stage was blocked requiring those patrons with the cheap seats to stand while viewing the show and drinking the cheap wine that was included with their steak dinner. If you paid a ridiculously high tariff, you received VIP treatment with better food and wine, but even the regular tariff was on the high side compared to the competition, competition at which you could be better fed and entertained.

 

I would definitely inquire whether time has cured what was bad about this venue.

 

All tango supper clubs offer transportation as do the hotels who sell entry to them. Pvt cabs are a better way to go both for price and convenience BUT CAVEAT ...AVOID CABS WAITING outside any supper club showroom. The dishonest cabbies haunt these places so arrange a radio cab to pick you up if you do pvt transportation . Otherwise hail a street cb, not one parked outside the club waiting for tourist marks to exit.

[Lolotte]

Any other suggestions ?

[4774Papa]

What about the other Tango shows?

 

· Tango Porteño

 

Cerrito 570, El Centro (next to Teatro Colon)

 

Tel 011 4124-9400

 

Dinner: 20.30 Show: 22.15 (90 mins)

 

http://tangoporteno.com.ar

 

· Piazzolla Tango

 

Florida 165, El Centro

 

Tel 011 4344-8201

 

Dinner: 20.45 Show: 22.15 (90 mins)

 

http://www.piazzollatango.com

 

· Rojo Tango (Faena Hotel)

 

Martha Salotti 445, Puerto Madero

 

http://www.rojotango.com

 

· Esquina Carlos Gardel

 

Carlos Gardel 3200, Abasto

 

Tel 011 4867 6363

 

http://www.esquinacarlosgardel.com.ar

 

· Boca Tango

 

Brandsen 923, La Boca

 

Tel 011 4302 0808

 

http://www.bocatango.com.ar

 

· Señor Tango

 

Vietes 1655, La Boca

 

Tel 011 4303 0231

 

http://www.senortango.com.ar

[Lolotte]

Which one do you suggest ?

[pmacher61]

For a complete list of clubs, milongas, schools, and all things tango see

http://www.tangocity.com/lugares-listado.php?pageNum_list=2&

 

There are many upscale (i.e. touristic) tango supper clubs to choose from, but the best advice is that wherever you choose to go - skip the meal/show combo deal and take in the show only. Some clubs serve a decent steak (how do you screw up a steak?), but the meal you are served will not be as good as one you can get from a decent restaurant and it will cost a lot more. I hear the food at the Rojo Tango club in the fancy Faena hotel is exceptionally good, but prices are high (like $150 pp and up).

 

I like singer Raul Lavie. He is the Argentine Tony Bennett. He sometimes performs at the Madero Tango show (in Puerto Madero complex) - a very good show when he is included. You can dine at the steak house (parrilla), "1880", located a 10 minute cab ride away at Defensa Av 1600 block. Make an 8 pm dinner reservation and you will have plenty of time to catch the 10 or 10:30 show curtain. Last time I went non-VIP seats for the show only cost about $25 (probably less now that the black market dollar is 10 pesos).

 

For less glitzy and less expensive tango shows attended by locals and tourists alike check the schedule of shows presented at the Luis Borges Cultural Center in Galleria Pacifico or those at Cafe Tortoni. A good supper club with a varied show frequented by the locals is Torcuato Tasso (conveniently located near "1880" at Defense Av 1570). See http://www.tangocity.com/academias/109/Central%20Cultural%20Torcuato%20Tasso%20.html. I caught the Raul Lavie performing there for about $10 pp general admission. They serve food at popular prices.

[pmacher61]

I underestimated the price of the dinner and show at Rojo Tango. Out of curiosity I contacted them and asked. Rates per person:

Dinner and show USD 290.-

Just show USD 210

The average middle class Argentine would laugh at any tourist who paid this tariff. It's probably a week's wages for an average joe, say a taxi cab driver who works 60 hours a week.

I just saw a Broadway musical (Cinderella) and paid $70 for an orchestra seat.

[t60]

Super information , Thanks.

 

We hope to get to La Boca again during the day time (our last trip there only lasted about 30 mins as our guide took 6 of us on a whistle stop tour of BA)

We are staying at Feirs Park Hotel on a Monday, Tues & Wednesday what would be the best way to get to and from La Boca, last time we were in a taxi, which was a bit hair raising, then a bus which seemed a bit complicated, I think the guide used tokens.?

What would be the best time during the day to visit?

Any suggestions for cheap to reasonably priced restaurants, cafes the the area?

 

Sandy in Spain

[pmacher61]

Super information , Thanks.

 

We hope to get to La Boca again during the day time (our last trip there only lasted about 30 mins as our guide took 6 of us on a whistle stop tour of BA)

We are staying at Feirs Park Hotel on a Monday, Tues & Wednesday what would be the best way to get to and from La Boca, last time we were in a taxi, which was a bit hair raising, then a bus which seemed a bit complicated, I think the guide used tokens.?

What would be the best time during the day to visit?

Any suggestions for cheap to reasonably priced restaurants, cafes the the area?

Sandy in Spain

 

First, be sure you distinguish between La Boca and adjacent San Telmo. There is a lot more tourist stuff, including tango shows and restaurants, in San Telmo than Boca. During the day time in La Boca you may want to visit the Quinquela Martin museum, attend a Boca Juniors futbol match at La Bombonera or dine out with or without matinee tango show ,e.g., Boca Tango/Caminito Tango Show. For another good description of tango shows see http://www.argentina-tango.net/home_ing.html?gclid=CJzI97iZwboCFY6Z4AodTHsA8w.

Bear in mind La Boca is one of the unsafer barrios of BA. Other than going to a restaurant (El Obrero) for dinner you probably don't want to spend time there at night. Even during the day, you should keep your wits about you. For a complete listing of BA restaurants in a Zagat like rating format use the search engine at www.guiaoleo.com.ar .

 

BA cabs are inexpensive, generally safe, and easy to hail. If you want to ensure a safe ride, have the hotel and restaurant call a radio cab. When hailing a street cab avoid shabby looking cars. Cabs that have radio cab written on them are preferred even though you didn't use a call to order the cab. If you don't like the looks or manner of any driver that stops for you, just wave him on. Another will be along in 30 seconds. The biggest hazard with BA cabs is getting stuck with counterfeit currency. Try to pay with exact change and keep an eye on the driver when he makes change - some will refuse the 100 peso note you hand them, but the one they return will be the counterfeit.

 

Above all, do not use credit cards for any major expense item. There is an active easily accessed black market for US dollars. See www.ambito.com for current exchange rates. Euros don't get the same premium as US dollars so it may be worthwhile to buy dollars in Spain with your euros at the market rate and travel to Arg with the dollars. You can ask at the hotel where to find a reliable exchange house aka cueva. Most travel agencies and many jewelry stores change and there is little risk - it is ubiquitous.

[t60]

thank you for your help and information about cabs, credit cards and currency.I don´t think we encountered the black market last time we were there, would the exchange places (cuevas) give us small notes and change? BA will actually be our last stop in Argentina, our first being Ushuaia, From your experience would we have any difficulty changing money there as we are in Port from 2pm-8pm?

 

I´ve looked at my notes from our last visit and it is really Caminito area where we were hoping to spend more time, watching the open air dancing and looking round the shops, perhaps having something to eat. La Boca as an area as a whole I remember as being a bit shabby and run down apart from the football stadium in which we have no interest.

We ate lunch in a restaurant in San Telmo, last time on our guided walking tour, looking at some of the old style cafes and antique shops. We weren´t there for the market and unfortunately the market won´t be on this time when we´re there either.

 

Sandy in Spain

[pmacher61]

thank you for your help and information about cabs, credit cards and currency.I don´t think we encountered the black market last time we were there, would the exchange places (cuevas) give us small notes and change? BA will actually be our last stop in Argentina, our first being Ushuaia, From your experience would we have any difficulty changing money there as we are in Port from 2pm-8pm?

I can't speak confidently to the ease of getting a black market exchange for US dollars in Ushuaia. I would think the travel agencies in town would be the best place to ask. If you do business with, or even just engage, an honest local merchant s/he might either accept dollars at the black aka blue rate in payment or simply be willing to buy them from you at an attractive rate. Know the rate when you set about to exchange. Getting small peso notes would not be a problem at the time of exchange. Bear in mind that a 10 peso note = 1 dollar. The biggest note is 100 pesos ( and there are 2 and 5 pesos notes).

The Argentine peso does not travel well, that is, it is not readily accepted outside Ar, but the government has made it difficult for locals to acquire dollars for travel. Consequently, there is a black market everywhere and most merchants (and many ordinary citizens) will readily accept them at a rate above the official rate - some merchants even advertise an exchange rate for purchases paid in dollars with a sign in the window.

 

I´ve looked at my notes from our last visit and it is really Caminito area where we were hoping to spend more time, watching the open air dancing and looking round the shops, perhaps having something to eat. La Boca as an area as a whole I remember as being a bit shabby and run down apart from the football stadium in which we have no interest.

We ate lunch in a restaurant in San Telmo, last time on our guided walking tour, looking at some of the old style cafes and antique shops. We weren´t there for the market and unfortunately the market won´t be on this time when we´re there either.

 

Sandy in Spain

If you are interested in antiques and are lamenting that your schedule doesn't allow you to take in the Sunday San Telmo street fair, you might want to consider a trip to the mercado de pulgas in Palermo. See http://www.elmercadodepulgas.com.ar/laescuela.html

The quality of the merchandise at the mercado is generally not as good as that found in the touristic antique stores along Av Defensa in San Telmo, but you can find better deals on a lot of old stuff in one huge location.

If I had to recommend one place in San Telmo for lunch it would be Cafe San Juan and in Boca it would be El Obrero. Check them out at http://www.guiaoleo.com.ar. Caveat: The location of El Obrero is unknown to most cabbies. Map it before going there to assist the driver.

[t60]

snip..The Argentine peso does not travel well, that is, it is not readily accepted outside Ar, but the government has made it difficult for locals to acquire dollars for travel. Consequently, there is a black market everywhere and most merchants (and many ordinary citizens) will readily accept them at a rate above the official rate - some merchants even advertise an exchange rate for purchases paid in dollars with a sign in the window. snip...

 

Ahh so that´s a good reason for possible tour guides to quote their prices in US$ and want cash on the day.

 

Thanks for your advice and information, very helpful, I hope it has benefitted others as well

 

Sandy in Spain

[pmacher61]

Ahh so that´s a good reason for possible tour guides to quote their prices in US$ and want cash on the day.

Absolutely. Not only want, but insist.

 

Thanks for your advice and information, very helpful, I hope it has benefitted others as well.

 

Sandy in Spain

You are welcome. If you want to know my favorite restaurants check these places out:

1. http://www.guiaoleo.com.ar/restaurantes/Centro-Vasco-Frances-82 The garlic prawns are great . So is the special rice IF they have centolla - ask. if not go with the zarzuela de mariscos. At lunch 20% discount for cash. Dinner is discounted 20% with a card from the local newspaper (Guardian?). Ask the bellman to borrow his. It will pay for your taxi.

2. Hard not to try a steakhouse while in BA. Many tourists like La Cabrera. http://www.guiaoleo.com.ar/restaurantes/La-Cabrera-217

It isn't bad, but when I go there I go for the early bird special (40% off all food and wine) or at least go with a discount coupon. To get the early bird you need to be there at 7 pm when the place opens and be out by 8:30ish. Call for details. Do not order any sides. Plenty come with the main courses.

More often than not I'll go to a neighborhood parrilla like 1880 in San Telmo. http://www.guiaoleo.com.ar/restaurantes/1880-1059. Ask the asador near the entry door what he recommends (tell him the Bicyclista Americano recommended you and slip him a 50 peso note when exiting). You will eat well. If in doubt get the ojo de bife. Alternatively, http://www.guiaoleo.com.ar/restaurantes/El-Estrebe-6374

3. If you feel like a fancy place this is my favorite of the genre though there are many new ones on the scene. http://www.guiaoleo.com.ar/restaurantes/Tomo-I-81 They offer a prix fixe dinner for about 450 pesos with wine. Not really expensive, but very elegant food and service. Second place is http://www.guiaoleo.com.ar/restaurantes/Red-Resto-Lounge-Hotel-Madero-1410.

4. At the opposite end of the spectrum is my favorite boliche, Bar Norte (not on guiaoleo thankfully), open for lunch and dinner except on weekends. Try the matambre de cerdo ala verdeo or lomo ala marsala. Delicious abundant dishes so don't over order. You can eat really well for $15 with a good cheap wine. It's crowded at night and located next door to BA's most famous pizzeria ( El Quartito) on Talcahuano between Santa Fe and Paraguay St. - go at an off hour and avoid the pizza.

5. Exquisite food in spartan surroundings with a maître trained in a French Michelin 3 star restaurant. http://www.guiaoleo.com.ar/restaurantes/Resto-Sociedad-Central-de-Arquitectos-489. They also have prix fixe options, 3 courses with wine for under 350 pesos. Lunch all days but dinner only on Thurs Fri Sat evenings - call to confirm.

6. Closed door restaurants are the vogue in BA. Here is my favorite. http://www.guiaoleo.com.ar/restaurantes/Paladar-Buenos-Aires-6802. Most of these places are open only on the weekend nights so you may not have the chance to try one. Call to confirm.

It will be hard not to eat very very well if you go to these places. Change dollars for pesos on the blue market and you will find the bill low for the value you get.

[t60]

You are just SOOO helpful. When you say call/ring will they speak English or do I need to speak in my broken Spanish (In our part of Spain they speak Andaluc, which is almost a slang form of Spanish as opposed to Castillian Spanish)

 

Sandy in Spain

[pmacher61]

You are just SOOO helpful. When you say call/ring will they speak English or do I need to speak in my broken Spanish (In our part of Spain they speak Andaluc, which is almost a slang form of Spanish as opposed to Castillian Spanish)

 

Sandy in Spain

I assumed you spoke Spanish based upon your residence. The hotel/fancy restaurants will speak English. Others, probably no or hit and miss. Bar Norte is the only one that doesn't take reservations.

p.s. If you go to either the Evita Peron or MALBA museum, you can eat well in their restaurant/cafe. Some people go to these museums just to eat.